If one of the readers had the pleasure of staying in the village in winter, namely, in the area of ​​the silo pit, then you might have noted an interesting fact - in order to load the silage into the tractor for livestock feed, it does not need to be hammered with a crowbar, even though it is cold outside. Moreover, steam emanates from it, and if you run your hand into the thickness of the mass at least up to the elbow, you will notice that it is noticeably hot inside!

The method of generating heat from compost was developed by the Frenchman Jean Payne in 1970, and this technology has not lost its relevance today. This method is actively used in Germany and it is called Biomeiler. Biomeler is a system for generating heat from a special compost heap (biomass), also known as "compost heating".

The process of cellulose fermentation by aerobic bacteria is accompanied by the release of carbon dioxide and heat, as well as various other substances that are of little interest to us within the framework of our topic (about the process). At this stage, we are interested in warmth. Let us clarify right away that if, in addition to cellulose (branches, leaves, tops and other plant waste), components containing nitrogenous bases (for example, animal droppings, manure, organic waste) are present in the compost, then some other bacteria and our newly made the bioreactor will also begin to emit methane, which can be used both as a source of fuel for the gas stove and, if there is enough of it, for heating. But for now, let's talk about the warmth we get from plants.

During the composting process, aerobic bacteria convert organic matter (such as shredded branches and plant debris, corn and beet tops) into heat and carbon dioxide. This process takes place around us all the time and everywhere: on the ground and in the soil.
This heat can be used for space heating and hot water heating, the temperature inside the compost heap reaches 60 degrees Celsius.
Biomeler is a very simple system. It only needs pipes, water and the heat of the compost. The only moving part of the system is the standard central heating circulation pump. This simple design reduces maintenance costs and risks of breakdown.

The biomeiler requires oxygen for its work, so you should not put this pile of organic matter in an underground bunker - the fermentation process will not stop, but it will slow down a lot, which will affect the amount of heat that can be taken from the pile. Immediately, we note that 2 cubes of leaves will not heat the house, but to wash the dishes, wash and rinse in warm water in the summer - this volume can already help.

I really like the idea of ​​hot water supply "for the lazy" - 3-4 days of work and 6-8 months you can wash your hands in warm water. If you want numbers, then they are on the Austrian site, there is a review article with pictures (I dragged a couple from there) and more, with numbers, volumes and kilowatts (copy). I must say right away that in order to completely solve the problems with hot water in your country house, one Kamaz of branches and leaves will not be enough. But who is stopping you from walking along the autumn streets of your city, looking at the large heaps of fallen leaves collected by the janitors for removal to the landfill and asking those responsible for cleaning the streets - do they want to dispose of IT absolutely free of charge? Not at the training ground, but in your backyard, for example?

But there are a few details to consider.

Aeration of the compost heap for home heating

The compost heap must be of sufficient size to prevent rapid loss of heat and moisture and to provide effective aeration throughout.

When composting material in heaps under natural aeration conditions, they should not be stacked more than 1.5 m in height and 2.5 m in width, otherwise the diffusion of oxygen to the center of the heap will be difficult. In this case, the heap can be pulled into a compost row of any length.

With a larger pile, a hollow cylinder is inserted into the center of the pile through which air can flow. This will allow the heap to be aerated from the inside.

That is why it is a compost heap, not a pit. And that is why the frame is a mesh (or a bunch of frameless) - no walls, partitions, etc. - this impairs air exchange.

Also, air exchange is improved if the pile is piled on top of a couple of layers of pallets or on a thick layer of thick branches and dead wood - air can pass from below.

The compost heap is regularly "perforated" with a crowbar in all directions - channels are created for air penetration. But it is making holes neatly, as the pipes with the coolant are buried in the heap.

The ratio of nitrogen and carbon in compost for heating water

The ratio of nitrogen to carbon is also important for composting. The “green” part of the compost is herbs, leaves, eggshells, fruit and vegetable waste, etc. - contain much more nitrogen. The “brown” part - branches, twigs, sawdust, etc., contain more carbon. If there are a lot of nitrogenous components, then the temperature rises faster. However, a lot of ammonia (a nitrogen-containing compound) is released, which kills bacteria. And the heap can "die".

The optimal proportion is approximately 25% "green" compost and 75% "brown". Stir them thoroughly to avoid rotting spots.

That is why you will notice in the video below that the heap is not made up of grass, but mainly from chopped branches.

Heat transfer control in Biomiler technology

The composting temperature depends on the composting stage:

1. The initial stage when low-temperature bacteria work. Depends on air and water availability.
2. The second stage is the rise in temperature. Bacteria that can withstand b O higher temperature. They multiply, the temperature rises. From ambient temperature to 45-50 degrees Celsius.
3. The third stage is the maximum temperature. The value is 65-70 degrees. Only bacteria that can withstand this temperature work. At this stage, the compost quickly dehydrates. And at the same time - very fast consumption of organic matter. The more active this phase, the faster the next one begins.
4. The fourth stage - the temperature is again about 40 degrees Celsius - when there is little food for bacteria and water.

The question is how long each stage lasts. It depends on many factors, and the spread can be almost 10 times. But the speed can be influenced, and first of all - by water. The most critical and high-temperature, which would be nice to slow down (because it sometimes lasts only a week) is the third stage.

The optimum moisture content of the compost is 60-70%. Obviously, the lower the humidity, the slower the decay (and the lower the temperature). And vice versa - more water, more temperature, compost heating will last less time.

Therefore, you need to decide

• what water temperature is needed
• how long

And accordingly, react with watering or its absence to a rise in temperature.

Also, the temperature of the composting can be influenced by cooling.

The mechanism is simple: heat from the compost heap in the Biomiler technology is taken through a heat exchanger and goes into the house. Therefore, it is necessary to intensively select water - the heat exchanger cools down, the heating circuit in the humus heap cools down, and the compost cools down.

So, everything is simple - but not so much as to lie belly up, as on central heating. But on the other hand - independence from external energy sources, which is relevant in modern conditions.

But let's move from theory to practice:

How the Biomiler technology is organized.

About this - the video (which, in particular, explains the first picture to the article; the tank in the center is for the formation of biogas, this is an oxygen-free process, but in the very center of the heap - so that it is warmer):

Another video (long and very, very detailed):

And another video about the mini-biomiller:

The key question is: how much hot water do we get from the biomiler? Here is the answer from the German site http://www.biomeiler.at/FAQs.html:

Biomeiler with 50 tons and 120 m³ of compost (a pile of about 5 meters in diameter and 2.5 m in height), with 200 meters of pipe inside the compost, constantly produces 4 liters of water per minute at about 60 degrees Celsius (at an initial water temperature of 10 degrees). This is equal to 240 liters of water per hour = 10 kW (about the same as with 1 liter of liquid fuel). A pile of 50 tons has been working for 10 months.

By the way, a nuance: you can use 2 lines in the compost heap. One is from the water pipes for heating the water. And the second is an air duct for heating the air (organization of air heating). In the "air" case, no heat exchanger is needed; the pipe takes cold air from the floor and returns hot air.

You also need to consider: a pile of more than 50 tons practically does not react to winter frosts. Mini biomilers "freeze" for the winter and start working again in the spring.

Biomiler calculation (from the site http://native-power.de/en/native-power/calculate-size-your-biomeiler):

Successful embodiment of heating with Biomeiler compost!

If anyone has ideas, thoughts or practice - be sure to write in the comments!

As already mentioned, working in the garden and vegetable garden, it is difficult not to get dirty. So you have to wash and wash your clothes often. Not to mention summer residents with children 2-10 years old. Here the water consumption increases several times.

And men often do repairs or car repairs at their dachas, make a fire for or ... How can you avoid stains on your hands or clothes? Pets are also shown water procedures after walking around the neighborhood.

There are a lot of similar everyday situations. Whatever one may say, there is only one conclusion: if you want to make a country house comfortable both for work and for rest with the whole family, it's time to go for a water heater.

There are many models on the market for every taste and for any conditions. It remains to figure out which one is right for you.

What are the water heaters

In order not to get confused, it is worth noting for yourself that water heaters differ:

• by installation method,
• by the way of water intake,
• by power source.

Further, everything is not so simple either: in each group there are different options, which it is better to familiarize yourself with before buying. Knowing the principles of operation and the "pitfalls" of all models, it is much easier to choose the one you need.

Differences in installation method

Choice type of construction water heater directly depends on:

1. the dimensions of the country house (or the room where it will be installed),
2. purposes of use.

Wall mounted water heaters

The wall model takes up little space and is ideal for a small country house. As a rule, it is installed where a lot of water is not needed - for example, in the kitchen.

The tank is mounted on special hooks that come with it, or on hanging strips. If you are using other mounts, make sure they are reliable so that the tank does not come off the wall.

Special attention should be directed to the surface to which the device will be attached. It must be strong enough.

On structures made of gypsum concrete or heaters with a volume of more than 50 liters must not be hung.

Floor standing water heaters

When the hot water consumption exceeds 50 liters per day, it is better to take a closer look at the floor heaters. The volume of the tank here varies from 80 to 200 liters. Of course, installation of such a unit on the wall is impossible.

If wall models captivate with their small dimensions and ease of placement, then how will the floor models attract their customers?

Advantages of floor standing water heaters:

1. First of all, it cannot but rejoice large tank volume... The most suitable for a summer residence is 80-200 liters. For those who are not enough, manufacturers can offer more - from 200 to 1000 liters.
2. Despite the immodest dimensions, floor heaters convenient to place due to the vertical shape and narrow body. They can be installed in any premises. It doesn't matter if the walls are drywall or not, as is the case with wall-mounted equipment.
3. Floor heaters are resistant... At first glance, the massive structure is securely fixed to the floor thanks to the flat base of the case. Some models come with special support legs.

If the size of the house allows you to install both a floor-standing and a wall-mounted heater, then you should focus on the amount of water consumed... For example, families with small children or those living in the country for a long time need more of it. Their choice one way or another will fall on a floor heater with a large tank. For those who need hot water at a minimum, it is better to do with wall-mounted ones in order to save space.

Differences in the method of water intake

Manufacturers of heating devices take into account the needs of all summer residents - both happy owners and those who use or. Therefore, on store shelves, there are liquid and flowing heaters... What are these dacha assistants?

Bulk water heaters

Very popular and mobile models: can be hung on the wall, can be placed under the sink, if you wish, you can also determine it outside the house. The device of such a heater is quite simple. It consists of:

• tank (cold water is poured into it),
• tap (located at the bottom of the tank, from where hot water is taken),
• heating element.

The model "Moidodyr", beloved by all summer residents, belongs to the type of bulk water heaters. It consists of a metal tank, an electric heating element, a water drain valve and a stainless sink.

Bulk water heater of the Moidodyr model. Photo from the site megasklad.ru

You can install "Moidodyr" in the kitchen or on the street. His tank is small, it is only enough to wash your face, wash your hands or dishes. The only thing it needs to run smoothly is electricity.

More advanced models have overheating protection and protection against switching on without water. But small volume of the water tank-significant drawback.

The "big brother" of the heater described above is shower bulk water heater... The principle of operation is the same, but the tank is larger - it is designed for 50-100 liters. Water can be drawn into it with buckets or pumped up with a pump. Instead of a crane fixed mixer with shower head... The device fully meets all safety requirements, it will not overheat the water and will not turn on without it.

Summer residents, who have long been using such a miracle of technology, have learned to save money. In warm sunny weather, the water easily heats up by itself if you install the unit outside next to the shower or on the roof. And on cold, cloudy days, the heating element works.

Well, for those who like to splash, you can safely purchase a whole shower stall, which also includes a bulk water heater. In this case, the kit will consist of:

• a bulk water heater with a watering can,
• a solid frame with a curtain,
• pallet.

Heat water in the sun or use electricity in such a shower - everyone chooses for himself. Who is more convenient.

It is good news that many manufacturers began to produce additional tanks... It is very convenient when you can fill two tanks at once. A great option for those who are physically unable to fill the container with water too often.

If your dacha has running water, it may be suitable for you instantaneous water heater. Its design involves heating water immediately at the time of its use.

Important: The water will only be heated under pressure. Accordingly, there is no container for water intake. You can increase or decrease the water temperature by adjusting the pressure.

Instantaneous water heater design
Such a unit is made in the form of a box, inside which a heating element is located (tubular electric heater - heating element). By touching it, the water is heated. With a strong pressure, it "slides" over it and does not get very hot. Reduce the pressure - the situation will improve. But you shouldn't expect miracles from the flow heater. We'll have to sacrifice either the temperature of the water or the force of pressure.

The models of such devices range from budget to expensive. What is the difference? In the little things. But these little things can make the unit more convenient and simple to use. For example, a budget flow heater is equipped with a thermostat that regulates the temperature of the heating element, and therefore of the water. The more expensive models have a digital control panel, with which you can more accurately adjust the device.

Instantaneous water heaters are divided into gravity and pressure.

For gravity water heater it is characteristic that the pressure inside it is not higher than atmospheric. The design even provides for a special tap that protects against a sudden surge in pressure in the water supply. The heated water does not come out through the faucet we are used to, but through a special nozzle. It turns out that you can use it mainly for taking a shower, and even then a summer one. The device will not provide adequate heating due to its low power.

Installing a gravity water heater is easy, you just need to follow the instructions. Using it is also easy. There is no need to worry about wiring, since the generated load does not go beyond the "standard" one, even in a country house.

So it turns out that this is quite a summer cottage option. If there is wiring and plumbing, but there is no need for a large volume of hot water, a gravity water heater will solve the issue of water supply perfectly.

Pressurized instantaneous water heater- the device is more complex. Summer residents do not use it very often. It is not cheap, consumes a lot of energy and creates a considerable load on the wiring. It differs from the non-pressure version in that it has no attachments - only an inlet and outlet for connecting to the water supply system.

Equipped with an electronic sensor that allows you to heat water to a certain temperature and maintain it in this state. In general, this option is more suitable for an apartment than for a summer residence.

Having dealt with the methods of water intake into the heater, let's see what causes the water to be heated. What does he "eat"?

Differences by power source

The power sources for water heaters are also different. Let's start with the easiest ones.

Wood fired water heaters

These are one of the very first devices for heating water - the so-called titans. They consist of a lower container, in which they are laid, and from the upper part - it contains water and pipes for smoke. A tap for hot water outlet is also attached to it.

Firewood burns, hot air rises through the pipe and heats the water. This process cannot be regulated... The water will heat up until the wood runs out. It may boil. It was always necessary to remember this when opening the tap, so as not to burn yourself. Of course, in the apartment next to such a titanium there was a faucet with cold water, but sometimes the water simply did not have time to mix.

If you are looking for a water heater for a summer cottage, then this is not the best choice. The level of fire hazard is too high, and even just danger (an adult can get burned, not to mention children). Plus, you have to constantly throw firewood into the firebox and clean it regularly.

Solar water heaters

As the name implies, the device converts into heat, which is transferred to the water. This happens thanks to special tubes. Each of them looks like a cylinder and is made of glass with double walls, between which there is a vacuum. The inside of the tube is coated with a compound that is responsible for converting the sun's energy into heat.

An interesting fact is that the water will heat up no matter how many degrees it is outside. Both in winter and in cloudy weather, it will warm. Let it be less effective, but it will be. In winter, the water heats up to a maximum of 70 ° C, in summer it can be up to 100 ° C

Gas heaters

One of the most popular water heaters is gas. Works from both a centralized gas pipeline and a cylinder. Gas models can be flowing and cumulative.

Gas instantaneous water heaters
The main structural element is a gas burner. Cold water enters the heater, passes through a heat exchanger, where the burner brings it to the required temperature.

Everything would be fine, but there are several nuances that sometimes confuse summer residents-buyers - this is the noisy operation of the device and changes in water temperature. The temperature of the water leaving the heater may not be what you expect. This is due to the head and the mixing process.

Gas storage water heater
A simpler device. It is best suited if the water supply in the water supply is weak or it works intermittently. The water is collected in a large container, where it is heated by the burning gas.

As a result, we have a large supply of hot water available to several users. Only the long heating time and the considerable size of the storage tank can confuse.

Important: when choosing a gas storage water heater, pay attention to which draft it is - natural or forced. The latter option does not need a chimney, but it is more expensive.

Electric water heaters

If there is no gas supply, and it is scary to use cylinders, then it is better not to experiment and purchase an electric heater. Despite the fact that its price is higher than that of gas, it is in great demand. First of all, due to the absence of noise and unpleasant odors. Electric models, like gas models, are divided into cumulative and flowing.

Electric instantaneous water heater
The water here is heated with electricity. Moving inside the device, the liquid gradually heats up.

The temperature will depend on the water pressure - this principle of operation of all flow heaters does not disappear anywhere. If the pressure is added, the temperature has dropped, and vice versa. The device is small in size, but nevertheless requires high power - from 6 to 27 kW.

Electric storage water heater
The principle of operation of this device is similar to the operation of a flow heater. The only difference is that the water heats up while already in a special container, and not moving inside the tank.

It takes more time to heat up a large supply of water. But the water will be the same temperature, and you can adjust it with an ordinary mixer.

For giving, you can use our market - an illustrated catalog where offers from various online stores are collected.

Water heater Hyundai Rainforest H-IWR1-3P-UI057 / S 1 778 rbl
Pleer.ru

Water heater Ariston Pro1 Eco ABS PW 30 V Slim RUB 6,998
Pleer.ru

Water heater Ariston Fast Evo ONT B 11 NG RU 9 922 rub
Pleer.ru

Water heater Hyundai H-SWS1-40V-UI706 6 799 rub
Pleer.ru

What to look for when choosing

So, the choice in favor of buying a water heater has been made, there is also primary information about the species. What should you pay attention to first of all in order not to make a mistake when buying? After all, I want him to work longer and not create problems. The most convenient way is to compose a "memo" for yourself:

1. Construction type (wall or floor).
2. The principle of operation (flowing or bulk).
3. The type of "food" used (firewood, electricity, gas, solar energy).
4. Power. The larger the tank of the device, the more power. For example, a 300 liter tank consumes 6 kW.
5. Tank material. The most durable is a stainless steel tank. It does not need anti-corrosion protection like enamel.
6. Volume of the tank. It is selected based on the number of people who will use the heater and the purpose of use. Take a shower for all members of a large family or for one person to wash the dishes? You can roughly calculate the amount of water, given the fact that one person needs an average of 40 liters of water to take a shower.

What do well-known manufacturers offer

Among the well-known brands engaged in the production of water heaters, there are several that attracted summer residents in terms of price-quality ratio.

Electrolux

Most popular models:
Instantaneous wall heater Smartfix 2,0

• Compact dimensions (13.5x10x27 cm).
• Equipped with overheating protection.
• Heats water in 3 minutes.
• The heated water comes out through two types of nozzles - a shower or a tap.
• The model is available in electric and gas versions. In the first case, you will not find electric ignition, in the second, there is no gas control.
• Price: about 2000 r.

Storage heater EWH 10 Genie U

• The size is much larger than the flow one (23x49x23 cm).
• Water heating time: 18 minutes.
• There is dry heating protection and an economical heating function. Economical heating does not require a lot of energy, but the water temperature will not rise above 55 ° C when using this function.
Water heater Ariston ABS Pro R Slim. Photo from termoimpuls.com

• Dimensions: 35.3x38.3x58.8 cm.
• Water heating time - 70 minutes.
• Built-in protection against overheating, against switching on without water and against voltage surges.
• Price: 5500 rubles on average.

Among Russian manufacturers have proven themselves well:



"Alvin"

Bulk heater EVBO-20/1




• Dimensions: 42.5 * 36 * 32.5 cm.
• Water heating time: 60 minutes.
• Double walls of the tank (the device can keep the water warm for a long time).
Bulk water heater "Dachnik" EVN-25


Water heater "Dachnik EVN-25". Photo from the site akaton.ru


• Dimensions: 37.1x51x15.2 cm.
• Water heating time: 50-60 min.
• On and off indicator
• Temperature regulator.
• Price: 2500 rub.

Whichever device you choose, so that it serves properly and for a long time at your dacha, you need to carefully read the instructions and follow the operating rules. After all, each of the water heaters has its own characteristics and "weak points". Do you use water heaters in the country? Share your experience!

In this article, you will learn how you can heat your home with a compost heap, the so-called de Payne mound. This design was invented by the French farmer Jean Payne in 1970. The heat received from this mound is enough to receive hot water throughout the year.
the video below shows at an accelerated pace how the mound described below is being built

This video shows the same process, only on a more global scale.

The total heat output in 18 months is approximately 1.5 GW. After the end of the fermentation cycle, the mound is used as a high quality fertilizer.

Location and foundation

The mound should be located as close as possible to hot water consumers. Note that you will need access from one side of the mound for vehicles (tractor or cart). Construction begins by creating a level of the aerated surface of the foundation, by pouring a circle of dry large wood chips, approximately 60 cm thick and 1.5 m in diameter larger than the mound itself.

To improve the ventilation of the lower / central part of the mound, it is recommended to lay perforated pipes from the outside of the mound to the center, placing them on the foundation (wood chips), rolling them in a circle. Flexible corrugated 4 '' perforated drain pipe is ideal, but for lack of a better fit, any large diameter perforated pipe will do.

The pipes can be rolled into a circle under the bottom cut of the foundation layer, or they can go straight through, but the pipes must be covered with chips on top. If you have 30-40 cubic yards (approximately 23 cubic meters) of "hot mix" (bark mulch or a mixture of mulch, wood chips, sawdust, manure). The diameter of the bottom of your burial mound should be 16-18 feet (approximately 4.8-5.5 m), and the diameter of the foundation should be 20-22 feet (approximately 6-6.7 meters).

Center and Perimeter Measurements

Mark the center of your embankment with a peg. Tie a rope to it, the length equal to the radius of the foundation of your burial mound. Let your assistant walk in a circle, and you mark the perimeter of the future structure with pegs. Do not remove the center peg. After that, mark the diameter of the base of your mound (as mentioned above, it should be 1.5m less than the foundation). Place a 60 cm layer of “hot mix” or bark mulch on top of the foundation, forming the base of the mound. Spread the material as evenly as possible, avoiding compaction.

Supply pipes.

Next, it is necessary to lay pipes “power supply” (hot water will flow from the mound to consumers) and “return” (cold water will flow from consumers to the mound). The “feed” pipe must be routed from the consumer through the center of the mound. Temporarily tie this pipe to the center stake, leaving 3 meters of headroom so that you can connect it to the pipe in the top layer of the embankment.

Return

The authors recommend using 90 meter polyester pipe spools.
Leave the end of the return pipe next to the pipe from the hot water consumers. Begin to lay the pipe in a circle, wrapping it around the center peg, towards the outside edge, avoiding kinks in the pipe. (60 cm for the first central coil section). As you unwind the pipes gradually, lay them around the first coil of the coil, keeping a distance of 15-20 cm between the pipes. Use cinder blocks or stones to hold the coil turns on the base.

For a 4.8m base, you should make 7 turns of the coil, which will be approximately 36 meters of tuba. The first (outer) turn of the coil should be half a meter from the outer edge of the “hot mix”. When you have finished laying the first coil layer, lay the coil outside on the foundation.

Hot Mix. "Hot Mix"

Pile a few cubic meters of “hot mix” over the top of the first coil, raking it out until it is level with the cinder blocks. Cinder blocks are needed so that the coil turns do not move when laying and as the level of the mixture, and it is easier to determine the thickness of the layer. After you have spread the mixture to the same level with the top edge of the cinder blocks, remove them and fill the remaining voids with the mixture. To avoid compaction of the “hot mix”, spread it with a rake while standing on the foundation.

Repeat the previous two steps for layers 2 and 3. Because the mixture will crumble from the outer coils of the coil, the mound will begin to narrow. This means that you will need to reduce the distance between the turns of the coil (from 20-25 cm to 15 cm) in order to get 270 m of the coil, taken from the calculation of a mound with a volume of 22 cubic meters. You will get 7-8 layers of coiled coil. For layers 4 and 5, you will have to reduce the number of coil rings from 7 to 6. On layers 7 and 6, the number of rings will decrease from 6 to 5, while maintaining the distance between the turns of 15 cm and the distance from the edge of the embankment to the outer turn of the coil equal to 25 cm.

When all the layers of the coil have been installed, the top / last layer should be connected to the “power” pipe you left behind. The authors use a propane burner for this purpose. Then cover the last coil section with at least 40 cm of the mixture. Do not forget that when laying each section of the coil, it is necessary, if possible, to try to avoid compaction of the mixture, and to measure the thickness of the layer and temporarily fix the coil, use cinder blocks.

External thermal insulation.

When you finish the construction of the main part of the mound, having laid a heat exchanger coil inside, it will be necessary to make air-permeable thermal insulation of the inside. To do this, cover the mound with a layer of wood chips or not pressed hay. This will provide air access, with passive ventilation, to bacteria inside and increase productivity in winter. The thermal insulation layer should be 30-60cm thick.

After the completion of the construction of the mound, it is necessary to connect the pipes to the hot water consumers. You can supply tanks for storing hot water, or distribute it to consumers using collectors. It is necessary to put a pump that will pump hot water into the reservoir, from which, in turn, the greenhouse, the warm floor of the residential building will be fed. Any competent plumber can design a water distribution system for you.

Your compost mound should produce 50-60 degrees of water 10 days after completion of construction. If the mound is excessively wet during construction due to rain, this process can take 3-4 weeks until the mixture dries out. The 1.5 m thermometer probes are an excellent tool to measure the temperature of the mound in various locations.

As soon as the temperature of your mound reaches 50-70 degrees, you can fill the system with water. Make sure there are no air pockets in the system. It is necessary to drive out the water in the system until it is completely filled. Then you can calculate the thermal performance of your system. The easiest way is to measure the temperature of the water entering the mound, then measure the temperature and flow rate of the water leaving the mound. A 22 cubic meter embankment with a 270 meter coil should provide a stable outlet temperature of 45-60 degrees, at a flow rate of 1-4 liters per minute with an incoming water temperature of 7 degrees. By increasing the water flow from 1 to 4 l / min until the temperature starts to drop, you will know the performance of your system. Testing should be done within an hour. For this test, you can use flow meters, thermometers, which are used for measurements in solar collectors.

After you know the outlet temperature and measure the water flow, you can calculate the approximate heat output of your embankment. For example: if your water flow is 3 l / min at an inlet water temperature of 10 degrees and an outlet temperature of 55, then the delta-t is 45 degrees with a water flow of 180 l / h. Next, we calculate the thermal power according to the formula Q = V * (1.16 * T). Where Q is the power in kilowatts, 1.16 is the heat capacity of water, and V is the water consumption (cubic meters per hour). In this example, 9.3 kWh is obtained. This turns out to be 38,000 kWh in 6 months. You can search the Internet for how to translate these figures into kilograms of coal, firewood or cubic meters of gas. Please note that your mound will last 12-18 months.

Such a mound with a small tractor, 5 assistants and all materials can be built in 8 hours. True, laying the coil, filling it with a mixture, leveling it with a rake is hard work.

The authors are experimenting with different mix options to get more heat for a longer period. Hard wood materials can generate more heat than soft wood. But hard woods provide heat for a shorter period of time than soft ones.

It is important that part of the mixture consists of crushed chips, to provide air access for bacteria and create the necessary area for their reproduction. An embankment made only of chips will give a temperature of 35-45 degrees in summer, spring and autumn, but will cool down in winter. Bark mulch will give a temperature of 50-60 degrees if it is not contaminated with industrial waste. Rot-resistant wood varieties will not produce heat; they do not need to be used. Pine can be used in small amounts. Wood chips mixed with sawdust or manure will also work. The output of heat and the value of the resulting humus will depend on the quality of the raw materials, after your mound stops emitting heat. The humidity of the mound is also important, with high humidity, the water will fill the gaps between the chips and sawdust and reduce the availability of oxygen. At low humidity, the biological activity of bacteria will decrease. The optimum humidity is 30-50%. Breathable thermal insulation will keep the mound warm in winter. Pipes can be reused, which will reduce the cost of subsequent buildings. When laying pipes, mark their location, this will avoid difficulties when you tear down the mound.

With the onset of the summer cottage, many families (or rather, part of families consisting of grandparents and children-grandchildren) move to dachas, villages, etc.

Fresh air, nature, fresh vegetables "from the garden" and all the other advantages of country-house life are simply delight. But the separation from urban comfort is perceived as an inevitable price to pay for all these pleasures. And among these losses is the lack of "constant" hot water. Sometimes it's just depressing! Neither it is normal for you to wash in the morning, nor to wash in the evening, nor to wash the dishes, nor ... In short, hot water is not a luxury, but the norm of life! Let's look at the ways in which we can "get" hot water in the country (village), and preferably without much effort. Methods like "heat in a kettle" or "heat with a boiler in a bucket" are rejected immediately as "emergency". We will consider only those that solve the problem once and for all, and the result of the solution is a tap from which hot water flows. Whenever you want. As in a city apartment. So:

Electric water heaters

There are two types - flow and storage. Flow-through heat the water directly as it flows through the heater. Since heating must be fast (albeit a small amount of water), the heater power is rarely less than 1.5-2 kW. Moreover, hot water does not pour in a stream, but flows in a trickle. Such a high power of the heater is a serious obstacle to their use in suburban conditions. Here, the transformers are not very good, and the wiring ... And in the event of a power outage (which is not uncommon in rural areas), everything turns into a useless toy. It is also difficult to use it, for example, in the evening, when there is a peak increase in the load on the network. In general, it is not known what such a heater has more - advantages or disadvantages.

The storage-type heater is nothing more than a container for 20-30-50-100 liters, with a built-in electric heater with a capacity of up to 0.5-1 KW and placed in a heat-insulating casing that allows you to keep heat for a long time, for example, several days. A one-time consumption of hot water of high temperature (75-85 degrees) hardly exceeds several tens of liters (even if we are talking about a bath), so there is no point in installing a heater with a capacity of more than 50-100 liters.

The small relative power of the heater (as a rule, combined with a thermostat) allows you not to "force" the electrical network. And in 10-20 hours, the heater quietly heats the water to a high temperature and goes into standby mode. As the water is consumed, a new portion of cold water enters the container, which slightly dilutes the hot water and the heater turns on again. Storage heaters require a constant connection to a water source in the form of a water supply system or a storage tank from which it feeds the heater. Otherwise, the heater may fail. This also introduces some inconvenience. Even if you have your own well or well, at least you need to install a mini-water tower or install an automatic pump with a receiver that maintains the pressure in the water supply system. On the other hand, the arrangement of your own water tower for 1-2 tons of water (plastic tanks for 800-1000 liters are not a problem at all now) solves many water supply problems at once. It is not necessary to constantly drive the pump, it is enough to pump fresh water into the tank once a week.

You can make a storage-type water heater yourself by ordering a 50-100 liter stainless steel tank in a metal workshop, cutting a heater with a thermostat into it and placing the tank in a box with a heat insulator (sawdust, mineral wool, foam).

Solar water heaters

As you know, in central Russia, for every square meter of the surface located perpendicular to the sun's rays, 750-1000 watts of energy fall per hour. That is, approximately 1 kW / hour. If you learn to “collect” it and force it to heat the water, then you will be provided with warm water from April to October. It is only necessary to arrange a "correct" solar water heater.

The overwhelming majority of summer residents have made the most of what is up to a black-painted barrel placed on the roof of a summer shower. At this point, the work on the "exploitation" of the Sun is considered completed. And such barrels stick out next to the houses, like monuments to stupidity. Water heats up in them to a hot state from the strength of 10-15 times per season. Meanwhile, having carried out the simplest modifications even for such a heater, it is possible to significantly (several times!) Increase its efficiency and be with hot water almost constantly. And these works will not require either large expenditures of labor or expenses. What should be done.

Please note that the barrel is on the roof “as is”. That is, completely "naked" and almost always open on top, that is, without a lid. Now pay attention to what part of the surface is illuminated by the sun - on the strength of 20% of the surface of the barrel can be considered "approximately perpendicular" to the rays. And the rest? 50% of the surface is simply in the shade, that is, it does not absorb solar energy, but, on the contrary, emits heat! Because as soon as it warms up above the temperature of the surrounding air, the barrel immediately turns into a heat emitter - nature cannot be fooled. The same radiation occurs at the ends of the barrel. Now add the almost constant wind blowing over the barrel. Complete calm is the rarest phenomenon. And every 10 meters per second they are guaranteed to reduce the surface temperature by 10 degrees! So what do we end up with? Those miserable crumbs of heat that the water in the barrel receives from a narrow strip of the barrel surface, which is perpendicular to the sun, is immediately dispersed on the back of the barrel, carried away by the wind.

Therefore, if you want to really make the Sun work for you, you need to do this kind of work. The barrel must be placed in a box. The side of the box, which will face the sun, has walls made of either glass or strong plastic wrap. And the half of the barrel, which is in the shade, must be covered with a heat insulator. For example, you can put sawdust into a box, wrap the barrel with a soft heat insulator such as foamed polyurethane foam, etc. In other words, the barrel should be placed in a special greenhouse and additionally insulated so as not to emit heat. And of course it is necessary to exclude the blowing of the barrel by the wind. Do this, and on the second day you will take care of the supply of cold water, because the water in the insulated barrel will not heat up to a measly 30-40 degrees and sometimes, but up to 60-70 and almost always. And such water will already need to be diluted with cold water for use.

An even more advanced solar water heater can be made if you equip a real solar collector. Since we cannot increase the power of the Sun, we can only increase the amount of heat received by increasing the surface area. For this, two pipes are connected to the barrel. One as close to the bottom as possible, the other higher. The collector itself is connected to the nozzles with hoses in the thermal insulation. The collector can be, for example, a flat metal container. The simplest collector is a black hose, neatly coiled and placed in a flat box, covered with glass or foil. The box is covered with household foil from the inside.

The main requirement for the operation of such a collector is the absence of air locks in the system and the possibility of constant circulation of water. That is, as the water is consumed, its supply in the barrel must either be replenished or the upper branch pipe must be arranged so that the water flow is not interrupted and water plugs do not form. The barrel itself, of course, must also be thermally insulated.

The work of such a collector is based on the simple law of nature that cold water is denser than warm water and tends to go down. The water in the collector is heated and displaced by colder water from the barrel, which flows through the hose from the lower branch pipe.

But the Sun is the Sun, but it is still the grace of nature. And it happens that cloudy weather lasts a week or another. And then what? And then it is better to supplement the system with heaters of other types.

Catalytic type heaters

Those who are seriously engaged in work at their summer cottage and prepare compost are probably aware of this phenomenon. If you take about half a cubic meter (or more) of grass, straw and other small plant debris, spill it thoroughly with water, tamp it, then this debris starts to "burn". Not with an open flame, of course, but rot, while releasing a large amount of heat. Moreover, the temperature in the "epicenter" exceeds 100 degrees and more. Numerous cases of spontaneous combustion of damp haystacks and stacks of straw are known. And the operation of such a reactor lasts for several weeks, regardless of the weather and outside temperature. And you can always replenish the "fuel" stock by mowing a bag of other weeds. Why not use this heat to heat the water? Yes, easily.

Of course, you will need a thermally insulated barrel, again with two pipes and hoses. But the collector here will be more complicated than the solar one. Firstly - only metal, and secondly, with flexible hoses. As such, for example, a pipe - a heated towel rail is suitable. You can buy several meters of copper tubing and connect adapters to its ends for a standard 3/4 "or 1/2" thread. The tube can be bent in the form of a "snake" or spiral.

The "reactor" itself is a wooden box about 1 × 1 meter (it can be arranged in the shade of a summer shower, bath or kitchen). After placing about 1/3 of the available grass in the box, place the collector and the remaining grass. Pour it abundantly with water and trample it down. Then the box is covered with plastic wrap. After 1-2 days, the rotting process begins in the box and it begins to "give out" almost boiling water.

After 2-4 weeks, when a significant part of the raw material burns out, this can be seen from the settling of a heap of grass and a decrease in temperature, the reactor is disassembled and the fuel supply is replenished.

Particularly valuable in such a heater is that it does not require any maintenance, it works by itself and produces, in addition to heat, compost - the most valuable organic fertilizer. And without weed seeds - they are simply digested there, unlike, for example, manure. In addition, in combination with a solar collector operating on the same capacity, it is possible to build an "indestructible" water heating system. I don’t know what needs to happen for you to be left without hot water.

Such a heater is good if there is always an opportunity to mow 2-3 bags of grass. If this is not possible, then you can arrange a "samovar" in the rear of the shower.

Wood fired heater

At one time, water heaters were very common. They represented a stove-stove, only small in size, with an oblong container planted on its pipe. They fulfilled their task, although the small size of the firebox of the stove caused a lot of trouble when preparing firewood.

Meanwhile, such a design as a samovar has been known for a long time. The firebox, as is known in it, is located inside the container with water itself, which makes the efficiency of such a water heater quite high. And most importantly, such a furnace is absolutely indiscriminate in fuel. Anything can serve them. From cones to rather long sticks - if only it would pass into the pipe (the fuel in the samovar is loaded through the pipe).

If there is a welder, a workshop or you “can do it yourself” - make such a collector - a samovar, repeating its standard design one-to-one, only by making a container of 20-30 liters and connecting it to a storage barrel with heat-insulated pipes. A few logs of firewood will be enough to provide the whole family with hot water for a shower. Shower is a light structure. It will be enough to turn on hot water in it for a minute, as it will warm up all over, so there is no need to heat it itself. It will be heated by falling hot water. In the period from May to September inclusive, this is quite enough.

In such simple ways, you can easily get hot water in the country and all the time.