This convenient locker is designed based on the requirements:
✔ Depth should be sufficient for storing most portable power tools
✔ Inside there must be an additional flap, which increases the useful area under the tools,
✔ Internal shelves should be rearranged, both wide and narrow;
✔ The box must be fully advanced;
✔ should be able to install an additional shelf

The main details of the locker are made of wood with a thickness of 20 mm. For the strength of the leg - glue, the cabinet body is assembled from plywood with a thickness of 20 mm. This makes it easy to fix tool holders.

In the cabinet, almost every centimeter of its volume is used, and I hope I will have enough for many years. Each leg is glued out of three blanks with a thickness of 20 mm, that is, there are only 12 billets. Each pair of legs is connected by jumpers (groove / spike).

The grooves in the legs are formed when gluing due to samples in the middle billet. Each papa legs are connected by jumpers, between which the longitudinal strut is located.

When assembling the base, you must first glue the preliminaries of the "two legs / two jumpers" the struts with fill to the final length and fasten on the glue and screws between the subtilities.

Retractable Toolbox

To get more places to store tools between the base legs, there is a large drawer with free access to its contents.

The walls of the drawer are connected "in a quarter", the bottom of the box is from 6 mm Fiberboard.

Before gluing a drawer in the front wall 0, I drilled and ate the holes for fastening the falsefield, which was added later.

Setting the drawer. Collecting the drawer, attached the extension mechanism and installed the box.
It is easier to make the fiddle padded. The installed box should be 3 mm below the top ends of the legs.

Foloxpannel.By installing the box, I saw into the size of the Falsepal G. To hide the box, the folder is 1.5 mm above it and should stand between the legs with a 1.5 mm gap on each side.

Before YCtanovka, the fibelanes drilled and cassed the guide holes, then attached the handles. To align the rawpanel, I used a double-sided sticky ribbon.

Housing Having finished the basis, go to the housing - a simple rectangular box connected by "Quarter". The main requirement for the body - it should be quite large so that manual power tools are located in it.

The manufacture of the body begins with the sawing of the side walls H, the cover and the bottom I of the final length and width. I facilitated my work, they are all the same size. Then longly saw the partition J in width. I made it a little longer, as it is inserted into the body after its assembly

Adding lining.To hide the ribs of plywood, according to the real plywood thickness, I drank the details to and glued them to the front edges of each plywood part.

Drinking folds.The case is assembled at the "Quarter" connection. For the rear wall L in the rear edges of all parts of the case (except for the partition) sawed folded. For the lid and the bottom drank Falts p side walls of N.

Drilling holes. On both sides of the partition, I wanted to install the rearranged shelves. Therefore, before assembling the case on each side of the partition and on the inner sides of the side walls, H was stated and drilled holes for the pins of the shelves.
Shelves on the left side already (smaller) than on the right. Therefore, the holes on the side sides of the partition are shifted.

Build the case. Now the case can be collected. At first I glued and nailed the side walls to the lid and the bottom. Then, the rear wall L gloves, which was cut from 20-mm plywood.

The wall gives the body strength, and helps to keep it a rectangular shape. In addition, it is the basis for tool holders. When the rear wall is glued and naked into place, you can cut the partition J into size and paste it between the lid and the bottom.

I attached the partition to the lid, the bottom and the rear wall of the screws. Although it could be inserted into the grooves. But the partition is not so wide as a housing, so all the grooves would have to end. Without reaching the front edges of the bottom and the lid.

To install a partition in the housing, I went to a small trick. First, put the body on the side. Then he saw four inserts and put the partition on them so that it was parallel to the side walls, while she was glued and fastened the partition to the lid, the bottom and the rear wall of the case.

A little more pin

Shelves Shelves are slightly different from those you find in most lockers. In the edges of the shelves, the grooves are selected with which shelves slide through the pins. If something constantly lies on the shelves, the grooves hold the shelves in place better than if they lay right on the pins.

I wanted to have rearranged shelves, but did not want them to look rearranged. Therefore, I drank the grooves until the lining of the C. They closed the edge of plywood, and at the same time and the grooves.

Drinking shelves. I froze the shelves M and N so that they entered the housing with the gap on the sides of about 1 mm. Then sheeplied 6 mm groove along both edges of each shelf for the pins Ø6mm. To do this, I adjusted the ruler so that the circular disk was slightly displaced. Then after the first pass, the shelf unfolded and made the second pass. If the pin Ø6 mm enters the groove very tightly, adjust the ruler and make a couple of passes.

Dropping the groove, I stuck the front edges of the shelves, then to install the shelves, in the holes inserted pins with a length of 20 mm and put the shelves in place.

Assembly Before the sash sash, I attached the body to the base. The binding element between them is the frame, the details of which are connected "on the US". And as a decorative stroke, I added the same frame to the housing lid.

Drinking frames. To make a frame, longitudinally saw three details about and four lateral parts p in width. The top frame on the housing is not there. Then he saw the details of the framework "on the Us" in length. Front / rear parts - 25 mm longer base width. And lateral parts - by 12 mm long base depth. The ends of the upper side parts flush with the rear wall of the case.

Connections "on the mustache on the knaps. At first I attached the base frame. In order for the compounds "on the Us" were durable, I strengthened the connections with the swords. Now the base frame can be glued. When the glue is dry, the cutter rounded the edges of the front and lateral parts.

Fastening the base frame. The frame is attached to the base and the housing over it with screws. He drilled all guide holes and installed the frame in place so that the rear edge was flush with the base, and the sides were the same. Then she attached the frame to the base and to the housing (only for the front and rear parts of the frame).

Installing the case frame. The frame on the cover lid is slightly different from the base frame. First, she does not have the rear part, but only the front and two side. In addition, the compounds "on the US" details of the framework are not enhanced by the swords. I just glued and attached with screws up the top frame to the case.

Inner sash Before making external flaps on the left side of the body, I added the inner sash smaller external. It does not close anything, but only provides an additional area to accommodate manual tools.

Druple. First of all, I drank the inner sash Q into size. Then, to the outer edge of the inner flap glued the pad to and the cutter rounded its ribs.

Loop fee The inner flap holds on a piano loop. But the loop is attached with screws not to the sash, but the loop card R width 100 mm. The sash is inserted into the groove, damned in the middle of the board, with such a design, the sash can be fixed in a closed position with a magnetic retainer that does not interfere with the piano loop.

Soldering sash. With a glued loop card, I attached the leaf to the body on the piano loop. Then, drilled a hole in the partition, pasted the magnet of the retainer. Then the board attached the lock plate.

External flaps It remains to make external flaps collected on the connection "shortened spike / groove".

Drinking racks and jumpers. At first I saw into the size of the jumper S, T and the rack U, handling the 1.5 mm gap at the bottom and the lid, as well as between the sash. Then on the details of the frame saw the grooves of a depth of 11 mm and spikes.

Adding a panel. Dry gathering both frames, I drank the V panel from plywood, adding a 10-mm perimeter space for spikes.

Drinking grooves. Spikes on the laying panels. I wanted to add decorative groove on the front side of the sash. For this front folding spike wider rear, I did it in two stages. First drank 10 mm False on both sides of the panel. Then killed an additional 1.5 mm only on the front side. Thus, I reduced the likelihood of rocking on the front side. Now the flaps can be collected and attached the handles.

Hanging sash. The sash hung on the piano loops. Then, to fix them in a closed position, for each sash in the lid and the bottom of the housing, two magnetic clamps fastened.

Finish Usually I cover the water based lacquer products based on their two considerations. First, the lacquer is easy to use - it only needs to be labeled with a brush, give it to absorb and erase the surplus. In addition, this coating is easily restored. If the finish looks a dot or on drinks, deep scratches appear, you only need to clean the surface and apply a new layer of varnish.

Tool holders A bit of ingenuity, and from trimming, you can make holders for the tools, on which the latter can be comfortable to sprinkle in lockers or on the wall.

Hacksaw In order not to damage the teeth of the hacksaw, I hung it for the handle. The holder did along the inner contour of the handle. For this, the inner contour of the handle on trimming the rusties, equal to the thickness of the saw handle, then drank it and cleaned.

On the holder, the saw was fixed with a shikold-attached screw.

A hammer The most convenient way to hang a hammer is to open the head for two shots. But it is better to fix the docks to the door, but to a small wooden block, and she already to attach screws to the door. It may seem that the block is excessive item. But the block has a plus - it is easier to determine the position of the holes and drill them a year an angle than in a large plywood door.

Foods For storage of files, I made a small shelf from which they cannot fall out. First, the file must be lifted and only then it can be pulled out. In the manufacture of the shelf first drilled the large holes in the depth of B mm. When the files are inserted into through holes, the cone-shaped knobs themselves are fixed in place. To cut the gaps, at first I drilled small through holes, and then with a hacksaw removed excess wood.

Samuel Cverfeld, United States
According to the materials of the magazine "SAM"

The project of the suspended cabinet-organizer for a domestic workshop. Having been on the wall of a minimum of space, the box has an impressive capacity. Thanks to a thoughtful design, implemented on the principle of matryoshki, its useful area - the walls of four doors, shelves and drawers - can be used for convenient storage of the entire hand tool, fasteners and other carpentry trifles.

The cabinet consists of several basic elements: hulls with shelves, two internal and two external doors, six small boxes. Recommended material - plywood with a thickness of 20 mm. For the manufacture of the rear wall of the cabinet and door panels, perforated organic or thin plywood with a thickness of 6 mm are used. The body and doors are harvested using a simple connection "in a quarter".

Manufacture and assembly of the case

How to make a housing: detail and dimensions
()

1. From plywood 20 mm thick in size, side walls (a), cover (B) and bottom (B) are cut in the drawing. For the manufacture of the body, you can also use another material, but it is 20 mm plywood that guarantees the optimal strength of the "Quarter" joinery, which are used in this project.

1. On the inner side of the sidewall (a) make markup and drill non-core holes (diameter 6 mm; depth 10 mm) for pins supporting shelves.
2. On the sidewalls (a) at the top and bottom, the grooves (quarters) of 20 mm width and a depth of 10 mm are milling.
3. On the side walls (a), the top cover (B) and the bottom (c), choose a groove groove, in which the rear wall of the cabinet will be recorded. Groove width 6 mm, depth 10 mm, remoteness from the rear edge of each part 20 mm.
4. From the leaf of perforated organic or plywood, 6 mm thick cut the rear wall of the drawer (C) - the square with the sides of 800 mm.
5. After checking the strict perpendicularity of all the joints and the accuracy of the connections fit, proceed to the assembly of the housing - the connection of parts A, B and C. The screed is carried out with screws through the pre-drilled holes, which will prevent plywood cracking.
6. According to the dimensions specified in the scheme, the shelf (D) is cut, and with the help of screws, it is fixed at an altitude of 140 mm.
7. In size from the drawing, shelves are cut (H). They are located on the plug-in pins and are removable. The number and configuration of the shelves are chosen at their discretion depending on what will be stored in the box.

Production of internal and external doors

The internal and external doors have the same design and differ only in length: the height of the internal flaps is 620 mm, external - 780 mm.

1. According to the dimensions specified in the drawing, the sidewalls of internal (J) and the external (i) door are cut off.

All sash should be included in the housing with a gap of 3 mm at the top and bottom (see the Case Detailing Scheme side view). It is taken into account in the drawing, but if you make a wardrobe with a deviation from the suggested sizes, do not forget to check this moment to assemble doors. Details J and I should enter a 6 mm clearance body, which will eventually provide a 3-millimeter indent from above and below.

1. On the specified dimensions, the covers and bottoms of the door (K) are cut in the amount of 8 pcs.
2. On the inner surface of the sidewall j and i at the top and bottom of a quarter of 20 mm width and a depth of 10 mm.
3. On the side walls (j and i), the lids (K) and the bottom (K) select the groove-grooves 6 mm wide and a depth of 10 mm, in which panels L and M are fixed.
4. In size from a 6-mm diagram of an organity, panels L and M are 4 pieces for the inner door and 4 pieces for external.
5. After conducting a "dry" assembly and checking the carbon compliance of all internal angles 90 degrees, proceed to the final assembly of doors using screws or self-tapping screws. The fasteners are screwed in pre-drilled holes.

Cabinet assembly

1. The fastening of sliding doors is carried out using long piano loops. For internal flaps, two cuts are 760 mm, for external - 600 mm.
2. Long and short loops inside the housing are core, as shown in the "case detail" diagram (side view). The top and below are leaving the gap of 3 mm, and the edge of the loop itself is driven out of the housing by 3 mm.
3. The loops are screwed with screws or screws through pre-drilled guide holes. First, the inner doors are mounted, and then external.

Making mails

A set of small boxes for fasteners and other carpentry details is optional, but a very useful option in a carpenter's closet. Having made with your own hands and bonding a series of simple wooden parts, you will make the inside of the cabinet space more accurate and organized. To speed up the workflow, the parts are cut out serially, laying the blanks with a small stack.

So that the tools do not occupy a lot of space and were laid out in its place, you need to make a cabinet for the tool with your own hands.

Thanks to the tool wardrobe, you can save time in search of the necessary tool and clean up the workshop.

Now wide popularity began to purchase boxes for instruments, however, with a large number of things and working materials, it is better to make a separate cabinet for them. A special cabinet will allow you to quickly find the necessary item, as well as avoid closing the room.

Wardrobe: description, benefits

Such cabinets are made small. In addition, the boxes must be shallow (depth should provide the placement of the tool in 1 row).

The design of a specialized locker has a number of advantages to which the following are:

1. The design of specialized cabinets implies removable (delivered) boxes that are convenient to transfer to the place of work.
2. Tools lie in one layer and one row, which allows you to quickly find and get the necessary item, not scratching and not clinging about others.
3. Because of the small dimensions of the boxes used, the cabinet itself is in the end obtained by small.
4. Easy manufacturing. Such a locker is easy to make yourself, using well-made materials and a minimum of tools.

Separately, it is worth adding boxes for consumables: self-tapping screws, screws, bolts, nuts and other hardware. It is advisable to make them so that every partition formed a square. This will reduce all the smallers in the cells that you need to sign.

About what is required for the manufacture of a simple tool cabinet will be mentioned below.

Back to the category

Materials and necessary tools

In order to do anything, it is necessary to assemble the necessary materials. For the cabinet will need:

1. Board. Boards can be any, the cheapest and recommended option - the use of a pine board. From it make a frame of the cabinet. The amount of material is calculated and purchased, based on the planned sizes of the crafts. The thickness of the board is not sufficient, but it is recommended to take it thoroughly because metal tools have a large mass.
2. Plywood. It makes the back wall of the cabinet, as well as partitions for drawers. You can not use Phaneur as a bottom for drawers: a leaf is fragile and may not withstand a lot of weight. The amount of material depends on the size of the cabinet, the number and dimensions of the partitions.
3. Bar. It is advisable to take from the same tree as the boards. Used to create legs or power to install the cabinet. It is better to use the bar 50x50.
4. Corners for fasteners. Specialized furniture corners should be used to impart strength. The loops may be needed, if you plan to create doors to the closet.
5. Screwdriver. It should be in advance to select the drills of the desired diameter and bits.
6. Electro saw or hacksaw. Required at the preliminary stage for cutting board.
7. Furniture screws with a set of special nuts to them.
8. Saws. Auxiliary fasteners are desirable to do with self-drawing, but it can be used and nails, in this case it will also need a hammer.

On this list of the necessary tools and materials, in order to make a cabinet for tools with your own hands, you can end. But there are some recommendations for the acquisition of materials. Special furniture screws and nuts to them are recommended to purchase from brass: it does not rust, has high strength, but it is expensive.

For wood (when working with a screwdriver), galvanized self-tapping screws are suitable. It makes no sense to acquire black sharp steel tapes (they cost more than the same strength characteristics). It is not recommended to apply when collecting the design of nails, it is not recommended due to the fact that the tree will succeed in time and they cannot provide the necessary strength. Shelves can be made from a durable sheet of plywood, but it is recommended to make them made from thin boards: they are more reliable and do not bend under great weight.

Back to the category

Preparatory stage

At the preparatory stage, there are a number of works required for normal assembly. Start follow from the drawing. If the cabinet is done for itself, and not to order, you can not bother a thorough cutting of the design, but make a small sketch. It should be determined to determine the size of the main parts: the rear and side walls, covers and pallet, shelves (they are usually comparable to the size of the lid and walls with a deduction of 3-5 mm). When designing the cabinet, it should be remembered that it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the shelf.

Boxes must be collected and fitted under the size of the shelves (minus 5-7 mm for free movement). It is not recommended to make boxes non-removable: it will complicate work with the tool. It is recommended to design the placement of tools in drawers in 1 row (and 1 layer). This will add convenience when working and allow you to make a cabinet to shallow.

The legs can be made of a bar quite simply - it is enough to cut 4 cubes of the size of 50x50x50, but it is better to fix them from the bar. To do this, it is necessary to fix the timber in length perpendicular to the direction of the boards on the extreme lines of the bottom of the cabinet, and to attach the legs to the seeds.

Before starting all the work, it should be processed by absolutely all wooden parts. For this, the bar, boards and plywood are impregnated with anti-grapple (antibacterial) solution, then they are given to dry. The next step is impregnated by a special primer for wood. After drying, the primers produce the processing "Aquastop".

If the boards are untreated (unrestructed), then they should be pre-overtaken, as well as cut down according to the size of parts for the cabinet (it is important to process and end surfaces).

For each man, his set of tools is pride and treasure that needs to be carefully stored. To the tools are in order, it is best to purchase a special box for them. It looks decent, performs its functions 100 percent.

However, not everyone can afford it. In this case, we recommend that you make your own hands for tools. It will not take long time, but will bring satisfaction from the fact that you coped with the problem without excess costs.

Before starting work, you need to take care of materials for work. To construct a cabinet for tools at home, you will need:

Important. Do not use Phaneur as a bottom for boxes. Plywood sheets are not different, so they will not be able to withstand a lot of weight.

Scheme and drawing

To assemble a high-quality cabinet for home tools, do not do without a good drawing. You can create a drawing yourself, but it is better to find a finished sketch on the Internet.

Creating a wardrobe for your own needs, it is not particularly bored, thoroughly drawing the design, but only draw a modest sketch. Pre-determine the sizes of the rear and side walls, as well as pay attention to the size of the lid and the pallet.

Council. Planning the shelves, do not forget about the thickness of the boards, which "destroy" some of the free space.

Messenger pick the boxes under the size of the shelves (minus 5-6 mm for freedom of movements). Boxes strongly advise the removable, which will make it easier to work with the tool. Best of all, when designing, planning the placement of tools in drawers in one row and one layer. It will make the job more comfortable, and will also create a shallow locker.

Tools and fasteners

To create your own tool cabinet, you will need:

Council. Galvanized screws are suitable for working with a wood screwdriver, and not steel. Their characteristics are the same, but the steel stand is more expensive.

Application of nails when collecting construction is not recommended. It is no secret that the tree will eventually dry, and nails will not be able to provide sufficient strength.

Assembly

The initial stage of the assembly of the cabinet - creating a carcass. Collect the frame from the boards, as mentioned above. The boards should be poured by certain sizes indicated in the drawing. The side walls, the bottom and cover are harvested from the boards.

Council. Check that there is no broad slot between the boards.

For assembly it is necessary:

Congratulations, the frame with the shelves on this is completed!

Next stage - creating legs. To do this, the bar is attached to the bottom of the carcass (only on the reverse side), as if it was attached. You can not worry about too durable fasteners - it's enough to take cheap screws. After that, prepared pre-legs are attached to them in the corners.

Final stage - boxes. They are created by hitting the framework of the desired form and size. The bottom is attached to this frame. If necessary, add shelves from the inside, they make contreels, where partitions will be mounted.

Photo

The following photos will give ideas for inspiration:

Useful video

On the next video, you can see all stages of manufacture

Conclusion

As you can see, spending not so much strength and minimum of money, you can create a practical and inexpensive box for tools with your own hands. A large plus of such a product compared to the purchase - you yourself can "fit" the locker under your needs. The tool box made independently will not only allow you to streamline the tools, but also give reason to be proud of yourself and the work done.

In contact with

Often there is a problem in life when you can't quickly find the right tool in a workshop or house. The reason for this is often the fact that it is impossible to remember where you left when there is a lot of tools, and the search area is large. I'm not talking about those cases when the tool took and shifted someone from relatives.

That such problems do not occur, build yourself one good wardrobe, where everything you need will be stored. If you always return to it tool when you use, you will no longer have problems looking for things.

The author made himself such a locker, it has 6 drawers. Four of them are small and used for storing small things. And the two drawers of large, they are placed in the lower part of the cabinet.
Everything is done simply, the adhesive is used and the screws on the tree are used, and the plywood and boards are used as a material. It is not necessary that the material is new.

Materials and tools that used

List of materials:
- sheet of plywood;
- boards;
- handles for drawers (the author used parts from water taps);
- glue and screws for wood
- Shelf slider (guide).

List of tools:
- ;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- clamps;
- oil for impregnation;
- pliers;
- ;
- building level;
- Pencil, ruler and other measuring instruments.

The process of manufacturing a locker:

Step one. Cabinet design
First of all, the author did all the necessary measurements and developed the design of the locker. The furniture was made of practically cast materials that the author found on its plot. For the most part it was oak and cherry. Of course, the materials should not be rotten, cracked and so on.

Step second. We make drawers
Boxes are made very simple, with them and decided to start the author. Here you need plywood, as well as boards.
You need to cut down to the desired size, you need four blanks on each drawer. At the bottom of each board, you need to twist the grooves, they will be needed in order to install the Fan.

Cut the phaneer to the desired size, and in the boards drilled holes under the screws. If you wish, you can apply glue to the grooves, so plywood will keep more reliable, but it is not necessary. That's all, the shelf can be collected, just screw the screws in the right places.
At the end, grind boxes and paints. The author used the dye under the color of the cherry.

Step Three. Facial part of the shelf
You will need some materials to finish the outer part of the shelves. The author for such purposes used the Cherry boards. We cut them to the desired size, grind, and then just glue to the shelves. Clean all this business clamps and give a completely dry.

When the glue dries, you need a drill. Drill with her hole in the center of the front board. A bolt or screw will be inserted here, with which the hand is screwed. Spend the final grinding with graininess 320.

Step fourth. We collect Rama
The author collects practical all on the glue, if desired, you can use a dowel or screws. For the assembly, woodcrews were used from cherry, boards, as well as lamps.

We cut wood plates, you will need three parts, the largest rear and two smaller side. Cut the most convenient on circular saw. You will also need to cut all the necessary components for the framework of the boards or bars.

After assembling the frame you can install the walls. We simply put them in our place, and then on the corners of the frame make a slot. They must be such a depth to reach the wood plates. These slots can be inserted into the pellera or pieces of wood plates. Of course, these details are suitable perfectly with glue and clogged into place.

When the glue dries, cut off the protruding parts, and the whole design is perfectly grinding. As an abrasive, the author used sandpaper grain grain 320.

Pitch fifth. Locker finish
For side and rear walls, the author used not very high-quality materials. The plates have long absorbed moisture and visually looked not very. In this regard, it was decided to separate them outside. We take the finishing material, cut into the necessary pieces and glue the cabinet outside. We use good adhesive for wood and clamps.

Step six. Install sliders
Sloters (guides) by the author purchased, they are made of metal. Using the measuring instrument, fasten them on the drawer using a tree screws. As for the moving part, we screw the lumps to it. Next, this bar is screwed to the drawers themselves. Holes, screw screws, nothing complicated. The main thing is to do everything smoothly, otherwise the boxes will be clicked.

Step seventh. Collect and install the handles
And now about the most important, about the handles. This is the main component of the locker, which at first glance it says that this is a cabinet for tools. As a handle, the author decided to use the handles from old cranes. To build one knob you will need a long bolt, nut, three washers and a piece of metal tube.

At first we insert the bolt, then you wear a puck and a tube on it, on top of the tube again put the washer. Now the crane handle is put on, on top of the washer and nut. That's all, the handle is installed, there are still 5 more pieces.

Step eighth. We make countertop
The table top is made from the boards, cut them into the pieces you need, and then glue the ladder, but it is precisely such an approach that is not necessary. After the glue dries, align the tabletop on the circular.

At the end, it will be necessary to make an edging, it will emphasize the appearance and strengthen the worktop. Here you will need boards, cut them in size, and then fastened to the manufactured plate. As an attachment, the author uses wood screws. At the end, pick up the tabletop, make it absolutely smooth and smooth.