For various reasons you have to transplant the gooseberry in the country area: the bustling bushes is initially incorrectly selected or allocating the territory for construction. Sometimes you have to completely remove all bushes, sending them to a new place of residence. At the same time, it is important to adhere to certain rules so that the plants take root faster.

When to transplant

The gooseberry transplant can be produced in spring or autumn. Spring transplantation is less desirable, since:

• the plant is very quickly "awakened" after the winter peace, in this regard, it is difficult to choose the optimal time for the procedure, because it is necessary to carry out the procedure before the start of the deployment;
• during the formation of kidney, the roots of the gooseberry is undesirable to be injured, since the main forces of the plant are aimed at the development of the upper part, and not the strengthening of the underground.

As a result - the transplanted bush adapts slowly, it develops badly, the harvest quality drops.

In the summer, it is also undesirable to transplant the gooseberry, because at this time the green mass is increasing, damaged roots will adapt for a long time.

Preference is better to give the autumn procedure, because:

• the bush has already completed fruiting, so all the forces will be sent to strengthen the root system, and not the development of the upper part;
• he gradually passes into the rest stage, so it can be easily adapted to new conditions;
• pereparing the gooseberry in the fall is much easier than in the spring.

It is better to transplant the gooseberry bushes in the fall after focusing. The optimal deadlines for the Culture Transfer to a new place - September-beginning of October. One-year and a half is enough so that the bush strengthened before the onset of frosts.

SELECT SELECTION FOR COVERNING

The right plot is a certain guarantee that the bush is not just attached, but also will increase fruiting. When choosing a place you need to take into account the following nuances:

• not the best neighbors or predecessors will be currants and raspberries, because they have common pests and diseases with the gooseberry, which may be inherited;
• you can transplant the gooseberry after potatoes, legumes and beets, clover or lupine;
• culture loves sunlight and humidity, but wetlands should be avoided with stagnant water: in such conditions, the fungus develops well, against which many varieties of the gooseberry have no defensive immunity;
• the place must be protected from winds.

An important role plays the type of soil on which culture will grow. It must have the following characteristics:

1. Ease. Gooseberry grows well on loam. Heavy land can be facilitated by the introduction of sand and peat, and it is too easy to intervene clay.
2. Weak acidity. To check it, it is put into the container a little leaflets of currant or cherries, poured them with boiling water (0.5 l), are covered. When the water cools, it is sent to a lump of the checked soil. If the water remains green, it means the acidity is normal, if blushing is sour, and the formation indicates insufficient acidity. Drop the acidity can be made of lime or dolomite flour.
3. Fertility. To the bush can receive nutrient elements from the soil necessary to restore forces and development.

Featuring the area, it is drunk and cleaned, removing all plant residues, place places for planting. After that, go directly to the procedure.

How to transplant gooseberries

You can transplant the gooseberry bush in two ways: together with an earthen room or a seedl.

Landing bush with a room

Before boarding an adult gooseberry, all the old and extra shoots are cut out. As a result, no more than 7 youngest and healthy branches should remain. They are shortened by 1/3.

Now you can dig up a shrub. For this:

• swinging it around the circumference at a distance of about 30 cm;
• refurb the thick roots stretching further;
• gently shovel take a bush from the soil and lay it on the film so that you can move to a new place.

When transplanting a large bush of the gooseberry, the diameter of the drunk part is determined by the size of the crown and get very neatly so as not to damage the numerous roots.

Further actions are held in stages:

1. Pit preparation. It is digging around the half-meter depth and slightly exceeds the diameter of the size of the bush. A few buckets of water poured into it.
2. Installing the bush.
3. Flipping emptiness with a mixture of land and compost.
4. Dusting soil.
5. Abundant irrigated by shrub fixed in the ground.
6. Floating with dry ground and mulching.

If the gooseberry mass transfer is scheduled, then it is important to consider the following:

• plot for landing is prepared in advance, pits can be digging directly before landing, but it is better to outline their place in advance;
• shrubs are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m;
• between the rows leave 1.3-1.5 m.
• the bushes are transplanted one by one into individual wells;
• if the diameter of the dug hole is small, then it increases.

We can transplant a small plant at any time (except for winter, of course). Only it is necessary to dig a section somewhat greater than the sizes of the crown so that when digging, the root system should damage as little as possible. Next - in general scheme. In August, you can transplant the exact method of a very small gooseberry process.

Sedna landing

The main difference of a seedling is the root system purified from the soil. That is why they can not be stored too long, and they adapt to new conditions for a long time, because their roots were injured when digging and cleaning. For the spring planning of the gooseberry, this option is exactly not suitable, since the roots will not have time to adapt until the beginning of the cojoint.

For the landing take a young bush (not older than two years), on which there are no less than three main roots with a length of about 15 cm. Pressure roots should also be developed. The above-ground part consists of two shoots with a length of about 40 cm, freed from the leaves.

The preparation of the gooseberry seedlings to the transplant is to remove unhealthy roots and stimulating the entire root system in a specially cooked bolt (on 3 liters of water take 1 kg of clay and chernozema, Packet Korevin and 6g actara.).

Cutting the gooseberry in the fall on a new place by seedlings is similar to the previous way:

1. Prepare a hole.
2. Mattles in her a small hilly of the earth.
3. It is installed on it a vertically or slightly under the tilt so that the root neck is bundled by 7-10 cm.
4. Holding the trunk, fall asleep the soil, periodically seal it. At the same time, the bush shake a little that the Earth filled all internal voids.
5. Spilled and mulched, twigs are cut to lower kidneys.
6. For winter, seedlings are covered with sawdust.

Caring for the gooseberry after resetting lies in timely watering. The mulch is cleaned before the procedure, and after moisturizing they return to the bush. For the winter, the gooseberry does not need to cover. It is enough just to insulate sawdust.

All gardeners in which the gooseberry grows on the site are faced with the need for its transplant. Redevelopment of the area, cutting trees, creating a shadow above the berry bushes, or initially an unsuccessful choice of place - these are the main reasons for which the gooseberry transplant is required. It is worth noting that the gooseberry is unpretentious and very quickly adapted in a new place if the bushes are transferred in all the rules of agrotechnology that you will learn from this article.

Use of transplant

When there is a need for a gooseberry transplant, many gardeners worry about how harmful or is this process for a bush? If we are talking about the old scratched plant, then for it, division and transplant to a new place will undoubtedly be very useful, as they contribute to rejuvenation.

The gooseberry bush can live for quite a long time, but abundant fruiting is observed only in the first 9-12 years. Then the shrub begins to grow old, and the yield falls. And in this case, the timely transplant will help not only save the bush, but also to extend his fruiting.

As for young fruiting bushes, the transplant procedure can also benefit the plant in the event that the location and time is correctly selected. You can transplant an adult gooseberry bush in spring or autumn, but the most suitable time, nevertheless, is considered to be autumn - from mid-September to the end of October. During this period, shrubs are completed in the vegetation cycle, and they come in peace. Such a plant after the transplant will not move into growth, and will be able to root well before the onset of constant cold weather.

In the spring, the gooseberry is more difficult to transplant, since the culture is characterized by a very early movement of juices. The kidneys appear on the gooseberry shrubs, then the floral brushes, and by the end of May you can already observe small green fruits. Because of such a rapid vegetative process, it is very difficult to track the moment of the start of the juice movement.

The only time when you can transplant the gooseberry in the spring remains the end of March - the beginning of April, as soon as snow comes down, but at this time, as a rule, the soil still remains frozen, so the autumn transplant is considered more promising and useful for the gooseberry.

Choosing a new place

The location is crucial for the growth and fruiting gooseberry, so the selection of the site should be suitable with full responsibility. It must comply with the following requirements:

• located in the solar, protected from strong winds and draft place;
• do not land the gooseberry after currant or raspberry - these cultures have common pests and diseases, so the transplanted bush is most likely to be sick in a new place;
• gooseberry moisthed, but excessive soil moisture caused by the close location of groundwater, it is harmful for it, since most of the varieties do not have immunity to fungal diseases, in particular, mildew;

• the perfect soil for the landing is the fertile loam of medium density - if your soil is drowned, but it is not enough humus, it is not enough to correct the situation by adding a small amount of humus or compost, too dense clay soil can be made more loose with sand and peat;
• the soil acidity for the gooseberry must be neutral (it is fundamentally important) - in acidic soil the plant is immediately ill, therefore, the increased acidity must be aligned with lime.

How to determine the acidity of the soil? There is a very original "folk" method, with which many gardeners check the pH level.

It is as follows: the handful of fresh cherry or currant leaves should be placed in glass dishes, pour boiling water and close the lid. When the water cools, throw the ground lump in it, and trace the color change. If the color remained green, then acidity is normal, the red shade indicates an increased acidity, blue - about its decrease.

Preparation of instruments

Working instruments and inventory required to transplant plants should be prepared in advance so that they are then not distracted by their search. What might need to work?

• garden scissors (secateurs) - to trim the bush before transferring to a new place;
• shovel - for digging and falling asleep sitting;
• scrap or garden forks - may be required if the bush is old and deeply rummaged (in this case, with the help of one shovel, it will not be able to dig);
• the ax - with it can be chopped by old dry roots;
• bucket for watering.

Rules for transplanting

The process of transplant itself does not take much time, but first it is necessary to spend all the preparatory work.

First of all, it is necessary to carry out a solid trimming of a bush, removing approximately half of its crown. Saving the gooseberry prickly and cope with them is not easy, so you can remove branches with parts. Leave on the bush need no more than 7-8 young shoots, shortering them by a third.

Landing Pits are recommended to dig in 1-2 weeks before transplanting, then the soil will have time to settle, and fertilizers to interact with the Earth. The shine depth should be at least 50 cm, the width depends on the size of the root. On the eve of landing, landing pits are well moisturized, pouring into each 3-4 buckets of water. If the soil is not fertile enough, then 0.5 buckets of humidiation or compost should be added before irrigating, mixing the fertilizer with a part of the Earth, digging out of the pit, then fall asleep everything back.

The transplant process itself consists of the following steps:

• The cropped bush is dripped within a radius of 35-40 cm, trying not to damage the main roots - small side roots can be chopped with a shovel.
• Further, using the shovel and scrap, you need to try to extract a bush from the ground, put it on a piece of film and move to the landing site.
• Too volumetric lateral roots can be cut off with a shovel or ax. Do not worry about the fact that it hurts the plant - the gooseberry is very harmful, and its root system is rapidly restored.
• Next, we lower the bush to the landing pit so that it is bundled about 5 cm below, the earlier, in the old place.

• We are growing the roots, and fall asleep the earth, sealing and watering the water every layer so that the emptiness is not formed.
• After disembarking, the rolling circle is mounted by an organichea, best of all peat crumb.

Before each irrigation, you need to cut off the mulch, and then return it to the place. It is permissible to cover the soil around the bush with a dense material, for example, rubberoid until the plant is taken.

With a mass transfer of the shrubs of the gooseberry, it is necessary to immediately dig up the required number of landing holes, adhering to the scheme: 1.5x1.5 m. This is the most acceptable distance between the plants and in the alarms for any gorge variety, taking into account regular planned trimming. The gooseberry has a very high survival rate, so re-examing it in the fall, you can count on a good harvest already next in spring.

Video "How to transplant the gooseberry"

From this video you will learn how to properly transfer the gooseberry.

Autumn is the most optimal season when it is better to transplant the gooseberry. The season has already ended, berries with bushes are assembled, and therefore, after the transplantation to a new place, the shrub will send all the strength to rooting and is better attached.

Choose a suitable gooseberry transplant

Not everyone does it turn out to be initially so planning the location of the beds, shrubs, trees and flower in the plot, so that he never had to regret his decision. The reasons for which the need for redevelopment of the site may be different: someone has an idea in front of the house, others have inconvenience from the born trees and shrubs, and the third try to save weakened plants that were planted in an unsuitable place for them. And if adult fruit trees in most cases have to be cut under the root, then with shrubs the case is much easier - so, the cutting of the gooseberry does not require much trouble and does not take much time from gardener.

As you know, the gooseberry is growing better and fruits, which is planted at the open sun, protected from a strong wind. On raw plots where the groundwater is too close, and in areas with a heavy clay soil, the shrub will often be exposed, and berries if they appear, then very small.

Video about a gooseberry transplant

To get a good harvest from the gooseberry:

• choose areas with light lighter soils, the sampling can be diluted with clay, and in clay - add sand;
• since the roasted roaster does not complain, if necessary, bring it to it directly before boarding the bushes;
• after the raspberry and currant, the gooseberry is better not to be tremended, since after them the soil is exhausted, and the pests in these cultures are common - they will gladly thrust on weakened gooseberry bushes;
• follow the most suitable time when you can transplant the gooseberry;
• do not forget to carefully rush the Earth before transplanting bushes.

The gooseberry is growing better and fruits, which is planted on the outdoor places.

If the gooseberry transplantation you needed to free the place on the plot, then you can place the bushes along the fence, at a distance of one and a half meters from it, or near young trees, leaving the free distance of at least two meters.

Step-by-step instructions, how to transplant the gooseberry

Although each gardener has its own opinion about when the gooseberry transplant is more convenient and more efficient, however, the spring transplant is undesirable because this spiny shrub is very early. You can easily skip the appropriate terms of the gooseberry transplant, and after the appearance of the kidneys on the branches, the root system of the bush is already extremely undesirable.

In the fall, in September-October you will have time, removing all old spiny branches and leaving only the youngest, strong shoots (they will need to shorten by a third), so that it will be much easier to work with a bush.

In the fall, in September-October you will have time to cut the gooseberry, removing all old spiny branches

The transplant of the gooseberry bushes is happening:

• the cropped gooseberry is pumped from all sides at a distance of at least 30 cm from the base of the bush, all thick roots are refurbished with an ax;
• then the bush with a shovel or scrap is removed from the ground, placed on the film and is transported to the place of transplant;
• the selected area pumps a hole slightly larger diameter than an earthen room with a root system (about 50 cm depth);
• 4 buckets of water poured into the pit;
• the mixture is poured from the top layer of removed fertile land with a compost (the fertilizer is better not to add so as not to burn roots);
• the gooseberry bush is installed in the pit and the gaps on the sides are filled with the remaining fertile mixture;
• the soil around the bush is rambling and watering three buckets of water;
• the dry earth and peat crumb is poured on top of the mulch.

Video Care Beneficker

The transplanted gooseberry must be shrouded in the ground centimeters for five stronger than he used to grow. Before the onset of the cold, the bush will need to regularly water, pushing the mulch and returning it to the place. For the winter, it will be enough to fall asleep the rolling circle of sawdust, to cover the bush is not necessary.

Cutting the gooseberry in the fall can be applied not only to free the area under the lawn or transfer the bush to a more comfortable place. This information will be useful and those who are interested in how to send a gooseberry to reproduce it. Autumnal transplant provides excellent shrubs survival, so you can safely breed the gooseberry not only with the grooves, but also the division of the bush.

There is a huge country, and the fact that is normal for the Stavropol or the Far East, may not be approached for the central regions of Russia.

Olga Burtseva asked from Kharkov in the comments, is it possible to transplant an adult gooseberry bush? Unfortunately, this problem is relevant for many gardeners, especially beginners who seek to plant on their plot and immediately.

Gooseberry - forgotten medicine. It helps well with gastrointestinal diseases, perfectly increases immunity, improves blood composition, and most importantly - effectively warns the development of atherosclerosis. And just just a handful of fresh berries per day! Many are convinced that in terms of the number of useful substances, black currant is ahead of the gooseberry, in fact, it is the opposite.

But they do not really look very well, as landings will look like in 5-6 years, when plants will enter an adult cycle of life. However, the problem can be solved. Now there are technologies that allow to transplant adult trees, not to mention shrubs. True, it is not easy to transplant the tree, a special technique needs. But the shrub is quite able to transfer to another place by the dacnis. A few years ago, my husband and I have done this procedure, the result is quite satisfied. However, everything is in order.

Place for the gooseberry bush under the fence

The gooseberry rose along the fence from the challenge from the northern side of the site. Behind the fence - meadow and fields, M This garden was blocked very much. On the family council! It was decided to replace the grid to the straightened to protect the plantings from the piercing winds, and at the same time, and a little to move the fence to subsequently, removing the chapter, do not spoil a new fence.

We put the fence, then the grid was removed, but it turned out that the bushes now grow at some distance from the fence. Moreover, it is not possible to use the released territory, but I did not want to breed the weeds. My husband offered to move the bushes closer to the fence, and those that are already fruiting, cut out over time. Not the best idea: I would have to root the chain, form a new bush and wait until it gains strength. It would be left for all five years, and the result of wanting to get before. Therefore, I insisted to transfer already existing and well-proven plants to a new place. In total, we have gone along the fence of seven bushes of different varieties. Immediately tolerate everything was scary (suddenly they do not fit?), And it was decided to divide this process into two stages.

No sooner said than done. The bushes per day or two before the transplant was well shed with water to keep the root as much as possible. Then, before the transplant itself, tied with twine. (It does not matter if several twigs break: all the same part of the crown will have to be removed, because the roots chopped will not be able to feed all the branches.)

The landing pits of approximately 1 m in diameter and about 80 cm deep in diameter died in a new place. The bushes were placed on the periphery of the crown to the depth of 80 cm and on both sides the shovels began to raise the bush, bypassing it into the circular and hard roots, which went beyond the excavation.

Why did you swing so wide? The fact is that the plants have a root system is usually

display an overhead part. Consequently, the most active suction roots are located on the periphery of the crown. Chubby them - it means to leave the plant to die with hunger. Of course, someone will objection, they say, suction roots are very thin, almost microscopic. Yes, but they are attached to something! And the more we leave the roots, the faster the bush will restrict. For a shrub, the loss of old anchor roots is not so destructive as the loss of the working root system.

As if nothing had happened

After the shovels, we carefully raised a transplanted bush, we must also gently transfer it to a film or burlap, not allowing the sopping of the Earth. If the transplant is carried out within its portion, there will be a film. On the film to transfer the bush to the landing pit and gently set in a new place, without disturbing the location of the branches relative to the parties of the world.

Aligning the bush, we spared it with a lot (about one and a half buckets on the bush), sleeved the earth, carefully tumped the surface around the bush with their feet and made a large hole, pouring the ground with a roller on the edges of the landing pit. After that, abundantly shed water. It was shed, and not poured - that the earth is well ass. The transplant was made in early October (in our zone this is the best time to plant gardens), but not in the spring.

I want to draw your attention: the root at the gooseberry is naked, the earth falls at it instantly, so it is extremely important for the day and two to shed transplanted plants.

If you carry a bush for a large distance, it is more convenient to shift it into burlap. Moreover, the bag should not be synthetic, but natural. It is necessary to cut it, shifting a bush on it and tighten the roots with wire or twine. It is necessary to plant such bushes, without removing burlap, - she squeezes after a year or two. And the roots will be in preservation and easily pass through the fabric.

In the spring, transplanted bushes we cut more than usual, cut out all the stems over three years old. Be sure to quickly water the plants around every 10-14 days.

In the first year, the bushes were painful, even the leaves did not completely unfold. But the next year gave us an abundance of berries, as if there was no transplant! Learn and so far, I am glad by an excellent harvest.

Return gooseberry

In my childhood, the grandmother had 5 gooseberry bushes.

She cooked amazing "royal" jam! An hour before the collection of berries, the grandmother poured a bushes with cold water. Birthdays became soft. The branches fixed with clothespins - and so collected a crop. When the garden got inheritance, these bushes hardened - they were old and hurt. And today I tried the gooseberry and understood - I want to return it to the garden. Especially liked the Neshlukhovsky varieties and Kursco Dzintars.

Senior Researcher of the Department of Berry Cultures RUE "Institute of Farurating" Tatyana Miroslavovna explained to me why the gooseberry is not yet in every garden:

At the beginning of the last century, the gooseberry struck a terrible epidemic spheroseki. This disease is also called American torment, because they brought it to us with American varieties. In the spring of the leaves and the tops of the shoots, and then the berries begin to be covered with a white bloom, which is later compacted, raging and becomes like tight felt. The plants of the vintage varieties of European breeding were unstable to this disease. The processing of fungicides of that time helped weakly, so people began to get rid of gooseberry bushes in their gardens.

The breeders are trying to revive the culture, crossing European sweet and large-scale varieties with American, not characterized by the special taste and size of berries, but winter-hard-resistant, drought-resistant, weakly-minded, and most importantly - resistant to mildew. However, it is not yet possible to create a variety that could boast simultaneously highly resistant to spheres and as large and sweet berries as vintage varieties.

The best time for planting the gooseberry is the end of September - the beginning of October. The place should be lit, without stagnation of air. And from the very beginning it is important to monitor the purity of the priority circle.

When landing the root neck, plunge on 5-6 cm.

After a seedling, be sure to doit, leaving 3 kidneys from the ground on each shoot. Form a bush with 6-7 strong branches. Every year in the spring, cut out all weak shoots, leaving 3-4 the strongest. By 6-7 years old, the bush should have 15-18 multi-industrial branches. The main crop focuses on last year's increase. The branches with such a type of fruiting are rapidly aging. And on a thickened plant, fungal diseases are developing. Therefore, with the 5-6-year-old age, old branches, leaving, leaving for their shift the same number of newly developed roasting shoots.

Often in the site there is a need to transplant different cultures to another place. But how risky the gooseberry transplant in the spring and how it will reflect on the yield of the current year.

Causes and terms of transplantation

Usually, acquiring a seedling of a new berry bush, gardeners and dacms seek to put it closer to home or along the garden track to be able to be fruitful to any minute. Especially this placement is convenient if there are children in the family and they prefer to assemble the harvest on their own. But some time passes, and the growing bush begins to interfere - the question arises about its transplant to another place. Is it possible to execute this? And when still require a transplant?

Such a need may be related to:

• with redevelopment of the site or with the rules of crop rotation;
• due to excessive growing plants, when young bushes were planted too close to each other and, over time, there was a thickening of landings, which makes it difficult to care, and the yield reduces;
• when transplanting a grown seedling for a permanent place;
• with an arisened area of \u200b\u200bthe site due to the growth of the trees planted nearby;
• due to the resulting wetlands or soil depletion.

Regardless of the causes of transplant, the main thing is to fully and in a timely manner to fulfill all the work so that not only not to lose the plant, but in the future, to receive constant and abundant yields from it.

Therefore, we determine the timing and choose a new place to land.

Gooseberry - culture is rather unpretentious, but still you should remember optimal timing when you can transplant the gooseberry in the spring. If you grow shrubs on your site not the first year, you probably have already noticed that after the winter period, the gooseberry and currant "wake up" after the winter period. With the first warm days, their kidney swell, then the first foliage, bloom and by the end of May you can see the formed green berries. Given this rapid process of vegetation, the change of bushes is carried out as early as possible so that the plant has time for recovery and adaptation.

And at the expense of the question of where to plant a gooseberry on the site, then if you have to disturb the plant, provide him with a new place with favorable conditions:

1. Many sunlight.
2. Lack of cold winds.
3. Balanced soil fertility.
4. No water stagnation and soil moistening.

Also the soil where the gooseberry grows must be checked at the level of acidity.

If you did not have a notorious Lacmus paper at hand, the "People's Lab" will help to determine the acidity of the soil: the handful of cherry or currant leaves fall asleep into the glassware and poured boiling water.

When the infusion cools, throw a lump of the Earth into it and, depending on which the color is painted in the color, you can judge the acidity level. So, if the shade is red - the acidity is high, bluish - low, and greenish - the norm!

Lower the acidity of the soil will help the introduction of lime, chalk or wood ash. The last element is also a natural complex fertilizer containing potassium, calcium, phosphorus and other useful micro and macroelements.

If it was already determined when and where to plant a gooseberry, it's time to move to the realization of the intended.

Spring Transplantation - Stages of Work

The process itself will not require a long time if everything you need to prepare in advance. Therefore, first of all, we prepare the landing site. We dig up with a depth of about 50 cm, and add 200 g of superphosphate into the removal soil, a pair of reworked cowboy or humidia and 300 g of wood ash and mix everything thoroughly.

If the soil seems to you too viscous, then sand will bring sand to improve water and air permeability. And when we are afraid of possible water stagnation at the landing site, it is better to perform drainage of landing pit - it will not bring harm, and you will surely save the bush during the spring floods or abundant rainfall. Most often for this, crushed stone, broken brick, gravel and other suitable material, which is poured onto the bottom of the pits to be labeled with large sand. Further on the drainage, pour a hormick prepared soil mixture, bring two buckets of water to the landing site and go to dig a bush.

If it is strong and thoroughly thickened, then before transplanting the gooseberry in the spring, you need to crop all the extra, old, lowered down, broken branches and shorten too long. This procedure is noticeably rejuvenated by shrub and facilitates work in its transplant. In addition, such a "shock" trimming allows the plant to direct all the forces to restore damaged roots, adaptation in a new place and stimulates the growth of young, promising shoots. Such trimming is recommended to perform and when the currant is planted, and the gooseberry, as the growing vegetation of these plants is similar.

Pulling the bush starts, retreating from its base of centimeters by 40-50, remembering that the crown of the plant occupies the same area as its root system.

At first, the plant is swollen in diameter, blaming the roots dropping. Then, bringing a pitch under a bush, scrap or the same shovel, it is lifted below, and at the same time pulling on top, grabbed over the branches at the base. It is easier and more convenient to do it with the assistant - so and the forces are more, and the probability of scratching the barns is less.

The location where the gooseberry is planted, it is necessary to pre-moisten. Depending on the state of the soil, you may need up to four buckets of water. Before planting around the rolled holly, the resulting groove is poured from 10 to 15 liters. Then the seedling is lowered into the pit, gently paint the roots. Then gradually begging the land, carefully sealing and plugging. After that, it is recommended to make a groove with sides around the bush so that water does not spread with watering, and everything absorbed from the roots. At the end of the landing for each plant, two buckets of water are poured, and the soil around - mulch.

Further care

A feature of any spring transfers lies in regular subsequent irrigation. Their frequency and volume depends on weather conditions - air temperature and precipitation. But approximately every two weeks throughout the season, you must pour under every bush at least 12-15 liters of water. Timely and generous watering helps to save the fractures and contribute to their full aging even on transplanted bushes.

Additional feeding during the first two years of plants is not required, since for this period there will be enough for those that you have entered into the soil when the gooseberry transplanted. And if you want to support the nutritionality of the soil, you can add a bit of the infusion of infusion or bird litter during watering into the water.

Also, we should not forget to combat pests, prevention of diseases and removal of weeds, and then your updated, the transplanted bush will delight you with new crops.