Siding of various types is becoming increasingly popular in the exterior trim of house facades. It is quite justified, as it updates the buildings and gives them a completely different appearance. Siding panels are made from various materials, and every type of such a finish has its advantages and cons. But there is a "common denominator" - they are all simple in the installation, so the transformation of the house is quite quickly. In addition to aesthetic species, the advantage of siding in front of other finishing materials is that the facade is not requiring special care for many years.

In addition, it is impossible to call it the benefits of high weight and high cost. So that he securely held on the crate, it is necessary to do the most durable frame to it, which should be stiguously fixed on the wall.

Fiber cement siding is produced in the form of flat panels of 190 mm width, 10 mm thick, 3600 mm long. It complicates its wall mounting. No castle compounds that always have siding made from other materials.

Cutting such siding is carried out with the help of special equipment or polishing with a stone disk. Cutting need to be carried out as much as possible And more carefully, since large errors in cutting and installation can significantly reduce the strength and moisture resistance of the finish.

In short, fibro-cement siding is good, but its installation is better to "give" professionals.

Stopping at one of the types of siding, you can move to the preparatory activities that need to be carried out on the surface of the walls and front of the roof.

Prices for fiber-cement siding

Preparatory work

Preparatory work includes the following activities:

• carrying out measurements of the walls and the front of the roof of the house and the calculation of their areas;
• determination of the required amount of material for finishing;
• preparation of tools and accessories;
• the acquisition of all necessary for a full finish;
• preparation of walls - dismantling of wall elements, minor repair, primer and installation of crates.

Conducting the necessary calculations

Since vinyl siding is the most popular houses for finishing, thanks to the ease of installation and an affordable price, as an application. r. You can show the calculations for this material.

First, it is necessary to define the area of \u200b\u200beach of the walls of the structure, as well as the frontal parts of the roof, if they are planned to be seen by siding.

• Determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe rectangular wall is easy - you need to multiply the height for the length. If there are windows or (and) doors on the wall, then their area is calculated, and then subtracted from the total area of \u200b\u200bthe wall. The value obtained and will be equal to the number of desired finishing material.

In the event that the base and corners of the building will be decorated with siding with another texture or other colors, these areas are calculated separately.

In any embodiment, the finishing material is recommended to purchase 15% more than it will be calculated.

• Knowing the area of \u200b\u200beach of the walls of the house, you can count how many siding panels will be required for its plating. To do this, you need to clarify the area of \u200b\u200bone panel of the finishing material. The calculation is made in the same formula as the wall area, i.e. height varnimizes the length of the panel, for example
  

0.23 × 3.66 \u003d 0.84 m².

By the way, very often this value (the useful area of \u200b\u200bone panel) is indicated in the passport of the product.

• Next, the total obtained wall area (after the sizes of windows and doors) is divided into one panel area. The result is the number of panels that must be purchased to cover one wall. Such calculations will need to be repeated for each of the walls - only so you can get the desired number of panels for the entire finish of the house.
• Next, the area of \u200b\u200bthe frontal parts of the roof is calculated. It is recommended to make an accurate filter drawing on a scale of 1:20 and it is properly distributed to the siding panels, relative to their length and directions.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe front is calculated by the formula of Geron:

S.= √ p. × (p.— a.) × ( p.— b.) × ( p.— c.)

where r - this is a half-meter that, accordingly, is equal

p \u003d (A + B + C): 2.

For example: for example, our frontal triangle has a side part of 7 m, and at the base - 8 m.

Semit meter is: p \u003d (7 + 7 + 8): 2 \u003d 11 m.

S.\u003d √ 11 × (11 — 7) × (11 - 7) × (11 - 8) \u003d √ 528 ≈ 23 m²

So, the front area is 23 square meters. meters. Frontons are usually two, so the parameter found is doubled.

• Next, you need to calculate all auxiliary fittings.

They are necessary and for the convenience of installing panels perfectly and accurately one to another, and to give the trim from a complete type - the closure of all the cracks and inconsistencies on the connections.

Miniature Profile		Miniature Profile	Profile name and purpose
	Starting Plank - from its installation, as a rule, the general installation begins		Profile chamfer, for finishing the end of the eaves
	Finish Plank - Completes the ranks of siding from above		Coolband - for finishing transitions from wall with wall or window openings
	Profile for facing external corners		Coil (welcoming) plank - for finishing appropriate slopes
	Profile for docking panels in inner corners		Connecting Plank - for the design of vertical panel joints
	The j-profile is wide - installed on the transitions of the planes or on their completion		Edging Plank - for registration of transitions, speed drops by vertical
	Sofit - for the binder from the bottom of the cornese swells		Drain Planck - to ensure the free drain of rainwater on the ledge, for example, in the transition to the basement

So, for example, the starting plank is performed perfectly for the construction level and is fixed in the bottom of the wall. From how it is installed, the horizontal installation of all subsequent siding panels depends, that is, it will task the direction of all the trim.

In this scheme, you can consider various profiles that are designed to finish different areas of the trim - this is the framing of window and doorways, sofits, compounds of individual panels, angles, etc.

How many and what to acquire profiles for finishing internal and external corners and other elements of the facade, is calculated depending on the structure of the structure, the number of windows and doors, the presence of a visor above the entrance, etc.

The measurement of window and doorways should be made carefully, and to the obtained size of each type of the necessary slats, it is necessary to add 15% of their length - this stock is needed if an unsuccessful incision is made and one of the fittings will be spoiled.

Calculator calculating the required number of facade siding panels

To simplify the reader, the task of calculating the required number of siding panels is placed below the calculator in which the main relations are laid for computing. Several explanations for using the application.

The user must understand that an absolutely sinless program for calculating siding is not. It depends very much on the specific features of the building - that is why such an operation usually conducts experienced measurers with mandatory departure to the object.

Nevertheless, manifested by smelting and attentiveness, it is possible to conduct similar calculations and independently, necessarily having an exact building plan with the populated dimensions.

• First, it will be necessary to choose the calculation direction. The program will offer or enter the already known area under the cladding siding, or linear parameters of the facade walls. When choosing the second path, it is possible to exclude from the calculation of window and doorways, where siding, naturally, will not be installed.
• You must specify the dimensions of the purchased siding panels (in millimeters). At the same time, do not forget that when specifying the width of the panel, it is meant its working size, that is, without taking into account the lock part and the mounting plank.
• The supply of panels is always done, necessarily. But if it is assumed to facing the front or other surfaces with beveled side sides, then the waste with stripping becomes greater. This is taken into account the calculation program.
• The final result is issued both in whole panels (with rounding to the most side) and up to two decimal places. For what? It is advisable to see the calculation for each facade or frontal wall separately, taking into account all its features. In this case, it is reasonable to take a fractional result (it is already taking into account the laid stock). Then, when calculations are carried out for all surfaces to be finished, it will remain a summation of intermediate results, and only then the final value is rounded to the whole side.

The exterior finish of his cottage is quite a complex and scrupulous process, personally, I could not choose a specific exterior for my country house for a very long time. My home itself is built from the sewer in two floors, in general, a pretty house, but how to make it a front finish, I did not know for a long time. Almost six months solved this question, on the one hand, I wanted to do something unique to everyone liked everyone, but on the other hand, of course, I wanted to make the finish very inexpensive. Revised a number of sites on the Internet and went around exactly more than five hundred houses before staying on a specific choice of external finish. Just plastering the walls and then painted it too simple and not attractive to me, especially since almost all at home with plaster have not attractive cracks, that is, any plaster after 1 ... 3 years gives cracks and then just sat down.

I also wanted to face the house with brick, but this pleasure is expensive, in any case, for my salary. However, I found not far from the city what I was looking for! It was a one-story house, decorated Wooden, talking to the owner, found out that such pleasure is not at all expensive. It also looks such a finish of the house very beautiful and aesthetically, especially the decoration is also very durable, according to the owner of this house, siding he did about ten years ago, but such a finish is just superior and today. Finally, I still found the search for the best finishes at home, still aesthetic and at the same time a simple and inexpensive option. In general, it was decided, - I do siding, it remains only to choose which material to apply. I decided not to do exactly, for the reason that with a wooden finish on the street, in any case, I think there may be many problems, that is, the tree especially on the street requires too carefully care. An option with metal siding also seemed not very effective. But I found on one site a very interesting version of Fibrocement (cement siding), - Finally, the option of finishing the facade of the cottage is found, this option is really very attractive and beautiful, and also very durable.

Cement-based siding is made from a special mixture of high-quality cement and universal cellulus fiber. This finish is unique and good for many indicators, firstly, such a finish is not lit, it does not require special care as a decoration from a tree, and also serves exactly one decade. It is only a bit more expensive than a metal finish, but this difference is rather minor. Why I chose cement siding, any builder will understand me, that is, the plates of such a cladding, I did simply at myself at the cottage. There is nothing difficult here, just made a number of forms, poured them with concrete and drowned in the form of cellulose fiber, that's all. If you want to make themselves such plates for finishing, then think over all the sizes and the necessary holes when casting, otherwise cut the concrete reinforced plates, then it will not be easy. Another advice - everyone knows that the concrete eagerly drinks water, so the plates do not gain weight due to absorbent moisture, cover them with waterproof composition, for example, you can simply paint the plates.

User Reviews.

Fibro-cement siding has not appeared so long ago in our market. Today we will look at what such siding is fibro-cement panels.

We will also consider how the installation of fibro-cement siding is being made. A video will be presented in this article, where you can make a lot about this product and get acquainted with it ..

What is Fibrocement

Fibro-cement siding panels are made from fibrcement.

In it, the main component is water, sand and cement:

• Various manufacturers in this base are added different binding additives (usually tree fibers) and minerals (marble crumb, mica, quartz). This all gives the material a special strength.
• Fibrocement is manufactured by the method of autoclaving, while all the components are connected to a mass having a homogeneous structure.
• After the material hardens, it will acquire resistance to moisture, climatic conditions, fire and good strength.

Types of fibro-cement panels

This material is called fibrosyding because the installation technology, as well as the decorative surface is created in the same way as familiar.

The price of such a finish will not be high, almost anyone can afford it. The mounting panels is made in two options.

Description of this material on the example of the most sought-after brands:

• At first glance at some houses, you will not immediately be able to determine how it is trimmed in fact - vinyl siding type "Christmas tree", painted boards or other material. But it is actually fibro-cement siding. Eternitis of Belgian production, which has a embossed texture. This manufacturer has both absolutely smooth panels. They are either stained or ground the surface with the preservation of gray.
• Siding Rospan Domestic manufacturer. Its prototype is Japanese ceramic fibrotental siding. It creates an imitation of not only a tree, on the stone or brickwork.
• It has two sizes (base and wall) and mounted in a different way. The facial surface of siding is ground, covered with a transparent silicone layer with a high degree of strength and high-quality facade paint.
• In the form of boards of different lengths produce Russian siding called Latonite. As well as eternitis, it is embossed, smooth, but at the same time has a wider selection of textures - brick, stone, tree. An acrylic paint is applied to a few layers on the front side of the material, and the opposite side and the ends are covered with a moisture-repellent composition as protection.
• The largest variety of shades, textures, as well as size has. Its coverage is ceramic. It recreates a variety of materials: decorative plaster for facades, stone, wood, brick (such options about five hundred). It is assumed to be the most reliable and it is not surprising, as such material is created by seismically resistant. But it is worth considering that its price will not be small.

Siding from fibrobeton may differ thick, specific weight, by mounting to the surface, as well as other characteristics. In order for all the differences to be ill-visual, we brought them together in the table.

To more clearly show you these differences, we brought them into one table:

Attention! During the selection of the material, it is necessary to pay attention to the specific weight, because the total mass of the entire cladding can have a greater load on the foundation, as well as walls.

How fibro-cement siding is mounted

Siding fibro-cement, installation of it is made by two methods: online and braziness. The first is similar to the technology of installing simple or vinyl, and should not cause special difficulties.

The second way takes more strength and time. But they are united by one, everything can be done with their own hands. The following is the instruction on the attachment of each of them.

Installation of data panels is made on the frame. On this topic, you can read many articles on our website.

Here you can and insulate without problems. But the mounting of the panels is made somewhat different.

Installation of Vansel

Installation instructions require to level the surface of the carrier wall with a vertical crate. It is metal and wooden, that is, all the same as when installing simple siding.

ATTENTION: If there is a need to make thermal insulation, then the horizontal crate is first mounted, the insulation is placed between its guides. Then it is covered with wind-proof film, and only after these procedures are arranged for it.

Montage of siding fibro-cement eateritis and latonite:

• Typically, the width of the bars to which the siding will not be less than forty millimeters. They are exhibited by level in a step of sixty centimeters and are tightened with self-tapping screws with horizontal craters.
• On the lower edge of the facing fasten the initial strip width of thirty millimeters. With it, you specify the correct angle of inclination for the first row.

ATTENTION: Before conspiring the initial bar, specialists are recommended to install a perforated profile on the lower perimeter of the structure. This will help prevent the penetration of the lining of various rodents.

• Fibro-cement panels Latonit is installed in such a way that the bottom edge closes the first bar. After that, they are screwed or nailed with self-drawing to the crate at the top edge. The distance to the place of attachment from the upper edge should be at least two - two and a half centimeters.
• The following rows are installed on the previous one, so that the bottom edge hides the row fastener, which lies below.
• Then a number of panels are installed on the previous blank premium so that their lower edge closes the fastener of the previous row.
• Panels set to each other strictly vertically. They can be placed by a gossip or one over the other. But usually based on decorative and practical considerations, it is best that they are installed in a checker order. At the same time, the lamp timing must be protected using a rubber ribbon, which is resistant to ultraviolet rays.

ATTENTION: Fastening is done only in the provided grooves. And you should not press tightly, you should provide a gap at a minimum of two mm.

• If there is a need to trim siding in width or length, then it makes a grinder with a diamond disk. During operation, the panel must be laid down the face.

Installation of jack

Fibro-cement siding can be separated almost any room. This can be done in jack.

Russian analogs of type ROSPAN or Japanese siding are mounted absolutely by other technologies. The panels have special locks that are located from four or two sides, so the installation is made online.

Eternit Fibrosyding from the Smoz series is fixed in a similar way.

We will describe the process of installing Japanese and Russian siding with a thickness of fourteen millimeters:

• If the building has a protruding base, then a tide is installed on it.
• The distance between the guides will depend on the length of the panel itself and select it in such a way that the joint panels are located on the guides.
• To the crate, the first row of panels are fixed with self-drawing. At the same time, it is impossible to forget about the indent from the shelf or the breakdown of watering into one one and a half millimeter. This gap is intended to ensure ventilation.
• If the panels for long sides have locks, then the connecting profile is fixed into the end to the ends on the bar. After that, all available vertical joints are treated with a sealant.

If you take care of reliable protection at home, then for these purposes, use fibro-cement siding. Fibro-cement panels Siding Created a reliable coating for your room.

In the external decoration of buildings, beauty and functionality playing. And if they are combined at the same time with reliability, durability and environmental friendliness, we can safely believe that as a result, the consumer receives the perfect finishing material. Fibro-cement siding, judging by the reviews, it took away from this title.

What is fibroter? This is a mixture of cement with sand and special fibers of various origins that give panels and boards from this material strength and lightness, as well as an excellent appearance, not changing over the years, and ease of installation and care.

The modern building market offers several options for fibro-cement panels and boards, differing not only by the type of external trim, texture and shape of panels, but also at the price. So, for example, Japanese panels of Nichiha are represented by almost five hundred models, there is from what to choose! But they are the most expensive, since the quality of these panels is above all praise. Russian analogs are inferior to them only a little, but their price is noticeably lower.

Each type of fibrotent siding is mounted differently. We will tell about all the ways that you have a complete picture of the possible difficulties and subtleties with which you have to face when installing the facade.

Tools and materials

Installation of fiber cement siding

To mount fibrotent panels, you will need:

• Stationary or manual circular saw with guides, discs without teeth with diamond spraying, electric lobby with carbide metal blades;
• Drill, carbide rolled with sharpening angle of 60 °, screwdriver, stainless steel screws;
• Hammer, stainless steel nails, Clammers (if needed);
• Mask to protect against dust, gloves;
• Metallic or Wooden Profile (Bars 20 × 50, 40 × 50 or 50 × 50), Minvata or Basalt Plates, Windproof Membrane, Scotch for joints, Mushroom dowels, Stapler;
• Panels or boards from fibrocement, tump for basement;
• Paint for painting sleeps and hats of self-tapping screws or nails (for those cases, if the panels are painted in bright colors other than the color of unpainted fibrocement), mastic.

Installation of insulation

Wall insulation before finishing

On the entire perimeter of the walls, install a 5-× 50 × 50 × 50 mm thick cut, placing them horizontally, at a distance of 600 mm from each other (focus on the width of the insulation matte). Invest matte insulation into the makeup and secure mushroom dowels, not less than five pieces for one mat. Then roll the windproof membrane, having it also horizontally and fixing the stapler to the doom. The membrane roll up upwards, with a falsestone at least 10 cm, sinking the joints of the scotch.

On top of the root with insulation, type a controlled, placing bars of 20 × 50 vertically, with a step of no more than 500 mm. In places of panels of panels, the Brawn width should be slightly more, about 700 mm, so decide in advance how you will have a panel on the wall. Installation of fiber-cement siding can be performed by a rotary, in a checkerboard or direct layout.

Consolidation of siding and panels

There are three ways to fasten fibro-cement siding and panels to the doom. Consider each of them in more detail.

Installation of boards (type ETERNIT, Latonite)

Install the starting bar in the bottom of the wall, sliced \u200b\u200bfrom the usual siding board, to set the angle of inclination of the subsequent boards. It is necessary to attach it throughout the perimeter of the building, aligning strictly by level. The following rows of boards are attached to the brand with the help of self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws should be screwed down strictly at right angles to the board. The distance from the top edge of the board should be 20-25 mm, otherwise siding can be cooled. The top board is fastened so that its lower edge cover the location of the fastener, with an outbreak of at least 30 mm. The boards in the row are joined.

Installation of panels (type nichiha, Rospan)

Siding Nichiha.

Choosing this type of facade panels, please note: the dohkeeper must be assembled so that the joints of the panels accounted for the profile.

At the protruding base, install the refill. Secure the first row of panels with self-draws. Position the panel at a distance of 10-15 mm from the hoist or scene to ensure ventilation. Installation of fibro-cement facade panels with locks on long sides is performed using the connecting profile installed in the ends of the panels.

In other cases, the plates are fastened with the help of self-samples. A little climb the screw of the self-press in the panel, then process with special mastic and fill. If you do everything carefully, even at the closer look at the fasteners will not be noticeably. It gives the walls of the building a species of one-piece, as if folded from brick or stone.

The junctions between the panels, inside and outside the corners should be treated with sealant. In the fields of joints, a waterproofing tape is laid in the shelter so that moisture penetrates inside the ventilated facade through the joints.

Installation of panels on beammers

Installation on beammers

With the thickness of the panels from 16 to 35 mm, the fastening is made on the curvators, special fasteners that can withstand quite large weight. Clammers are attached horizontally. Their lower legs hold the panel, while the upper becomes the fastener element for the top plate.

The fastening of fibrosiding on the coughs also allows you to make the walls of the walls almost seamless.

The only thing that is necessary for such installation is mesmers and special nails. Nails can be chosen under the purchased fastener at once in the store.

Fibro-cement boards should be very gently taken out of pallets, so as not to damage the paint layer on the front surface. It is necessary to transfer fibrosiding, keeping vertically over the narrow side. To do this, first put the panel on the edge, take it in the center and only after that raise. It is impossible to carry the board in a horizontal position, it can break.

The sawing of the panels is desirable to produce at a workbench with a length of at least 3 meters perimed by carpet. This is necessary in order not to damage the paint on the front surface. The panels that need to trim or saw must be comfortable. Refrigerated or wet panels before revealing must necessarily dry.

Sawing, trimming and drilling of panels can be produced on the street or in a well-ventilated room. It is advisable to use a saw with a vacuum cleaner, as a lot of dust is formed during sawing. Dust from the surface of the panels immediately needs to be removed with a soft cloth or a wide brush.

Cropped facets of panels should be painted with acrylic paint into the tone of the panels, usually supplied in the kit. Heads of paint immediately wear a cloth.

And last: be sure to take into account the weight of the panels, they are not so heavy as the porcelain stoneware, but also far from the gunki, therefore the thickness of the profile and the type of fasteners for the roaring and panels, calculate with a margin.

Fiber-cement Siding Installation Video

1. Horizontal doom. Bar size ≥ 50x30 * mm, depending on the presence of the intermediate layer of the insulation, the distance within ≤ 600 mm.
   * Depending on the thickness of the insulation.
2. Anchor fastening The mount is performed by using dowels, screws at a distance of ≤ 800 mm.
3. Heat insulation. Fastening of special mattes of thermal insulation type to the wall of the building, facilities. Depending on the climatic features of the region, the thickness of the insulation is selected.
4. Vertical dorette The vertical bars at the point crossing 2 connecting elements are attached directly to the horizontal crate. At the same time, the optimal width of bars of the vertical clamp is considered ≥ 40mm. The width of the vertical crate at the docking point of the cedral bars should be ≥ 70 mm. The distance located directly between the axes of vertical bars should be 600 mm.
5. Perforated profile Perfectly guarded the facade of the building from the penetration and damage to rodents, insects. Creates with the help of the starting bar throughout the perimeter of the structure. At the same time, the perforation area should be ≥ 50 cm 2x1 perm.
6. Starting Planca Presented by a 10x30 mm profile. Directly sets the corner of the most important, first board.
7. EPDM Ribbon is fastened at the Cedral Board Interface directly to vertical bars. EPDM tape protects against negative external influences, adverse atmospheric damage.
8. Fibro-cement boards cedral. In the process of their installation, it is necessary to use a special screwdriver, regulating force, as well as stainless self-tapping screws, additionally equipped with a self-drilling type tip, a hack of self-negative. If you need to install slopes and corners, you must additionally consult a professional.

Installation of a wooden crate

The basis of the design of the ventilated mounted facade with the immediate use of cedral siding is a vertical and horizontal timber.

The bar horizontal is attached with powerful screws or thick nails to the bearing wall. The fastener depends on the type of material from which it is made. It should provide a high level of reliability and fastening strength.

Mounting to the wall of concrete or brick is carried out by applying screws made of steel stainless steel with a diameter of at least 7 mm, as well as a dowel nylon. The limit distance between the horizontal type bars should be at 6 cm.

The optimal option will be the use of mineral wool as thermal insulation. It is attached directly to the base through dowels of dishes. The view and thickness of the insulation is chosen on the basis of the conducted heating engineering calculation.

Waterproofing film is attached to vertical type bars using a special construction stapler. In this case, the overheet of fixed webs should be at least 1 cm.

The thickness of the heat-insulating material must comply with the thickness of the horizontal clamps with a width of 6 cm and the minimum thickness of 3 cm. As a rule, the ram 6x6 cm is applied or 6x8 cm. In the event that there is a need for a thicker heat insulation layer, galvanized steel brackets apply To which bars from the vertical type tree are attached.

The fasteners of the vertical brucks to the horizontal is carried out by means of two steel or stainless screws. Each separately taken fibrotental type board is attached at least to three vertical bruises. When attaching a board to two bars, 4 cm is considered the optimal distance between them.

Installing the Cedral Fiber Cement on the crate

The minimum overlap of the siding of the fibro-cement Cedral is 3 cm. Boards are fastened with the use of special vehicle screws, ribbed nails.

Begins the installation of cedral bottom up. At the same time, the initial plank is mounted 3 cm wide and 1 cm thick. The first cedral board is stuffed, which in the future sets the angle of inclination of siding.

Fibro-cement boards cedral do not need to create ventilated conditions. It is recommended to still leave the gap between the wall and siding for air penetration. Its width should be at least 2 cm. This will avoid the formation of condensation. The slit at the bottom is closed by a profile with perforations in order to protect the building from the penetration of harmful insects and rodents.

External and internal angles are finished by profiles that give the facade of the building or facilities. Laconicity of external feed. The optimal length of profiles is considered to be the size of 300 cm, the color solution is the shade of the cedral sheath.

The number of fibro-cement boards required for finishing the wall of the specified height is calculated by a specific formula:

n \u003d ((h - 190) / 160) + 1

In the future, the resulting result n is rounded and the integer is obtained. In the absence of the need for cutting the last board or the minimum size of the slit, the lagging method is applied (o). The formula is applied:

o \u003d (n * 190 - H) / (n - 1)

At the same time, the nest must be no more than 5 cm. When applying alternating alternation on one side of the facade, the distance between siding should be no more than 1 cm.

Video Installation Instructions CEDRAL FIBRO COOL

Processing and cutting material

Facade boards cedral fiber cement type sawing, milling and drilling extremely easy. As a sawing element, it is best to apply a circular type electronically with a solid disk, with a diamond spraying or in teeth with solid fiber. The usual hand saw with sharp jar and carbide inserts is great for circumcision of small siding slices. Lobsik with hard heating, acute sawdust and high turnover can also be applied in these purposes. In the process of using the power tool, it is also necessary to include dust removal for eliminating small, dust particles.

In the process of processing the board, it must be securely attached to the layout. At the same time, the workbench should be extremely resistant to avoid the occurrence of additional vibrations, eliminating excessive stress in the process of cropping and giving even the edge. If the pruning is incorrect, the edges of the cut are peeled. After trimming, the ends are cleaned from the sowing of special sandpaper. Dust, aware of the processing of siding remove a soft dry cloth. It is necessary to remember that dust that was not deleted on time, leaves difficult to remove spots on wood.

In the process of drilling holes, siding must have a plot point. To do this, you may need a regular table. The wood is drilled by a sharp drill with a sharpening of equal to 600. If necessary, the formation of the Metabo brand is applied to the formation of a wider diameter hole.

Retouching of end and longitudinal slices

The ends of the processed cutlets of the cut material do not need to be tangled - siding cedral durable material. The need to tinted retouching sections is based on the aesthetics of external feed. Color gamut paint must match the organ of fibrocement boards. Before starting color, it is necessary to take care of dry surfaces of the surface, purified it from dust and dirt. Lects are immediately eliminated.

When choosing a facade cedral board in such colors as a "walnut", "pear", "cherry" need to be painted open spears in obligatory.