I wanted to build a house. Immediately collided with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but the house wanted to get reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the proposals of the modern building market, I decided to stay on

On the forums they advise to build houses from the section 15x15 cm. But I had to build myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I did not want to attract third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter bar. Instead, it bought a dry material with a cross section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood gives a shrinkage, I will warm the wall outside the mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

In order to further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story for an example of manual and navigate the situation.

Pouring foundation

At first I cleared the platform for the house from garbage, bushes and other interfering things. After that, it began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time, what type of foundation is suitable specifically for my locality. He studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. This helped me a specialistic reference book. Additionally, I asked the neighbors, on what foundations of their houses.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions allow you to save on the arrangement of foundations, therefore most of the neighbors have a house on lungs from limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse to reinforce - such here we have a wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, "buming" it is not. Water passes deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need for the arrangement of blunt monolithic supports in my region.

Began to do with a trench. To begin with, removed a fertile ball. It seemed sand. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then laid out the trenches with a stone and paved two reinforcement rods. Tied them in the corners. I think the ribbon is best reinforced both below and at the top. So did.

To save yourself from excess work, it would be possible to order a ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region it turned out to be unreal - there is no such proposals. Yes, and I have such a plot that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don't need this.

Alas, so save it is not in every region. For example, if I live somewhere in the suburbs, I would have to make a formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the construction mixture.

While concrete is gaining strength (and it needs to be 3-4 weeks), I will deal with the preparation of consumables.

Prices for bar

Learn more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Proper billet

The connection of the crown of the bar is performed using wooden brazing. I decided to make them from screaming boards left from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of roofing crate.

For copiers, it should be used as hard as possible wood. The process of manufacturing fasteners is extremely simple. I took the cutting board and braided them on one side with the help of the appropriate saw.

Then I put emphasis and started sawing into size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful billets.

Spaws saw with a ribbon saw. At the exit, I got a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I pointed the blank with an ax on each side and got my brand.

Preparation of moss

Brazen, peat moss sphagnum and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of a bar, professionals are usually insulated with rolled materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - it is enough to roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, for the convenience and ease of processing you have to pay.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. First, this material is full of nature - go, but collect. Secondly, Moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally stated thematic forums: Moss is actively used as an interventory insulation, and there are no negative responses about it.

For insulation, a red or peat moss is best suited. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second after drying becomes fragile. If possible, it is best to use a red moss. You can find it easy - these are long stems with leaflets resembling a Christmas tree.

Production of Kosyakov

I do them for every door and window openings. For this I use a smooth bar. Suchkov, if possible, should not be in general. For more convenience, I made improvised workbench directly near the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal propuls. In this, the disk saw helped me. Excess material removed with the help of the chisel.

Make the right cant forces not even every professional at the carpenter. Therefore, shoals for windows I decided to make a simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a pair of vertical shoals. The horizontal connection will be answered directly the window block.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, I came up with how to simplify the task. Instead of sample (in the photo she is shaded) I decided to glue the bar. For this, the plane is in advance. The result was not worse than it would be in a situation with the use of a quarter.

Reduce the number of jambs in the doorway can not - all four are needed. However, the shape of products can be significantly simplified.

I chose in Bruke, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the deepening in the side shocks. This allowed me to put on the lower bar on the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to chop the eyes across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a disk saw, I prepared the propelles, pre-setting the appropriate disk output and making a parallel focus.

Then I took the first drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for copilyons. At the end, a smooth rectangle across wood fibers sawed. A saber saw helped in this.

Carpenters are usually done in the threshold two rectangular nests, and from the bottom of each vertical jamber, they are decorated with a response protrusion, firing and drinking excess wood with the help of the chisel. I decided to make holes, like for fasteners, and scored a pair of fasteners. Similar holes made at the bottom of the shoals.

The upper horizontal bar, I have not yet trottered, and a small board nailed to the threshold - it will take the "quarter" functions. The design of the opening was obtained extremely simple, however, it does not interfere with its main function. In the future, I put the opening and bow the "quarter".

Required tools

For the construction of a house from a wooden bar, I used the following tools and devices:

• unstressed electric drill;
• disk saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electrolake;
• corolnic;
• saber saw;
• plumb;
• a hammer;
• water hose;
• ax.

For cutting a wooden bar bought a disk saw. I had to saw in two approaches. First, by the carbon died line, after which I cut, turned the bar and reversed again. On the second face of timber, the line is best transferred, too, with the use of the coal. If you are confident in your "charming", you can saw "on the eye".

Using the disk saw, I made spikes and recesses for the corner connections of BRUSEV. When arranging spikes, I lacked a small depth of propil, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

Build house

Line of the Lower Cross

Laying the starting crown is traditionally performed with a compound known as "in the floor of the tree". This node without any problems is made by disk saw - enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of the cut was insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which it got rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that connects with the help of nails.

Lower crown I put on the lining from the boards. Between the elements turned out to be gaps - in the future I will make a product there. In my region, they are usually in the wall, and not in a concrete basis. This option has its advantages. First, to do products in the wall easier and faster. Secondly, on some elevation, the wind moves with a greater speed than directly from the ground, so that the underground will be better ventilated.

Brous cutting. Connection "in Polterev"

On the lining, I'm going to mount the floor beams - as I think the load on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Lining and a lap of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid in the very bottom rotates faster. In my situation, there are lining down, and not a bar itself. In the future, if the boards are rotated, they can be replaced with much less effort than the Lower Cross.

Prices for saber saw

sabelnaya Pila

Features of laying the second and next crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I joined the timber with indigenous spikes - the usual adjoining of the elements here is unacceptable.

Taking a disk saw, steamed a pair of propilov. On the second face, the cut line was transferred with the help of a square. The indigenous spike is made easy, everything is demonstrated but in the photo. With insufficient disk output, the depth can be finished with hacksaw. The groove is still easier. Also demonstrated but in the photo.

Important remark! Consider that there should be approximately 0.5-centimeters in compounds of the type "spike groove" to lay a sealer. A compound in which wood simply concerns wood is unacceptable.

Previously, I set the depth of the depth. My saw can change the disk outlet without any problems - quite simply weaken the lever. Supplement is convenient in operation. If in traditional carpentry production, the wizard puts a parameter of the working tool and prepares the required number of one-type blanks, then the situation is somewhat different in a carpentry.

My drank is equipped with a thin disc - for cutting it has to make much less effort. Safety casing moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My home the walls will be longer than the bar, so I have to splicing the building material. To do this, I did from both ends of a long bar on drowned, I removed the deer with the help of the chisel and got a spike in the middle. The protrusion is ready, now you need a groove. Chop the wood by a chisel across the fibers - it is impractical. I went to the cunning and drilled a simple through hole in the second timber. The length of the drill was not enough to create a pass-through hole, so I had to drill on both sides. Next, I cut off the blank of excess wood, made the markup and cut the bar along the fibers using the chisel. Connected spliced \u200b\u200bbars. The gaps scored moss.

Helpful advice. In the wedge, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to fully make spikes with a saw, you will need to additionally dod blind by the chisel to the completion of the process. In the next photo you see bars already with fastening spikes. The patterns of opening thresholds for doors are demonstrated as templates.

Put the second crown on the lower, competently by performing angular articulations and the necessary splicing in length. It's time to make marking for the installation of napillates - connector of the crowns of my house built at home. I took the square and put the vertical labels on the bars below and at the top, in the places of the future placement of fasteners. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my bar. After drilled holes for fasteners and drove into them with a hammer.

What you need to know about the impudent?

By logic in a round hole, it would be necessary to drive the round heap. Builders adhere to other technology and use the square sections. Such fasteners and in the manufacture more simple, and the connection hold much more reliable. At the same time, short bellhead will not interfere with the process shrinkage process.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a hand drill with a stronger vertical hole. When installing a bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly sticking heater, the first will be a little staggering. To the bar firmly fixed, it must be additionally siege to the sledgehammer.

Used by me stoles work on the section and provide the right shrinkage even if there are insignificant deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the bar will give a shrinkage. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, what I will talk about.

Once I had to observe how the builders did in the wall of the hole of the hole with the help of a long drill and ripped round long brazening, externally similar to the cuttings from the shovel or robber. Were there vertical such holes? Naturally, no. Ultimately, the bar is not donkey, but as if "hung" on the impudent, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having stolen, I laid the trunk and moss on the crown. Pokclock laid across the bars. Moss simply threw on the pass. As a result of the panel hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to pure the walls. Moss will provide a decent insulation of the structure.

I installed the bars on the brazening, put the pass, sketched Moss, besieged the crown of a sledgehammer, but for some reason he still fears. This is due to the presence of gaps in angular compounds. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I tightly filled them with moss. This helped me a spatula and narrow metal strip.

Attentive reader will ask: But what about the panel? Do not need to lay in corners and her? There is no need. First, as I said earlier, MOH is a very good natural antiseptic. My home will still stand for a long time without any finish finish, and the sediment moisture will continue to drain along the corners. Moss will not give wood to dig in these places. Secondly, in the future, the timber in the corners will have to be compatible. Moss will not interfere with this. Pacle can lead to a breakdown of the plane.

Prices for passion

Now my corners are strong, insulated and unproduced. At the end of the day I covered the angular compounds in order to protect them from possible atmospheric precipitation.

In the picture you see that one bar is located above, than the other. But they must be at the same altitude. We are not in a hurry to immediately include electricians - with such a problem it is quite possible to cope with the help of simple sledgehamps.

I worked at the wrong plane, when I became clearly visible to interference with the installation of the next crown. By the Rubankov, I compared small "screws" and "Pumps". More substantial differences in height compensated with the help of packle and moss - on their arrangement goes much less time than on the processing of wood by the plane.

What should we build a house!

With the basic principles of laying each crown, you have already become familiarized. There are important nuances. First, the crowns should be laid with alternating angular compounds. Secondly, the inner bearing wall of the house should be associated with a longitudinal wall. It is done through one crown. For binding I use a proven and familiar compound. Only here are the holes for brazen, I will drive the "chess" in relation to the lower crowns. After that, laying the pass and moss, and by placing each bar in the place intended for it, weaving compounds in the corners.

That is, the order of construction of the house is extremely simple:

• i lay the next crown;
• i make markup for coppins;
• drill holes;
• i drive the wooden fasteners;
• laying the pass, I throw moss on it;
• i repeat the sequence.

By the length of the bars with a mixture of the "Vravdka" method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (I have this seventh crown), I made a markup to arrange window openings. The width of each opening calculated by adding the size of the shoals and sealing gaps to the width of the purchased window block. On each side of the opening should be in a pair of gaps - between the jammer and the installed window block, as well as between the jacket and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the necessary width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, pre-enhancing the spikes in brushes, similar to the stage with doorways for doors.

The following crowns with the window opening laid out of bars without spikes, observing the same dimensions.

All window openings, I set up from the "short", which was absolutely violated in the process of shrinkage of the bar - for the walls such a material will not fit, and sorry to throw out. The jumpers did not. Highlighting the opening, he constantly checked his evenness with a plumb. Walls also checked.

Separate stench, I temporarily brought up with the help of the REC, so that in the process of work it did not fall. T-shaped design, as well as an angle in additional strengthening do not need - they are perfectly held in their own weight.

Important remark! In places of arrangement of spikes, the opening and the line was propyl, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not put the pass, because When picking, it would be wound on the cutting disk. In the future, the package without any problems is covered with the ends.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it should be temporarily put without fastening and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for spikes. They put on the jamb. Having placed the saw dial to the required depth, installed a parallel focus to withstand the desired deposit from the edge. Much time for such work I did not go. I could not cut the bar for the desired depth of the circular - I had to finish with a hacksaw.

In the lower wedge of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. In the last crown, this did not do this - in the future, the spikes would still have to create in each bar.

At the personal experience, I was convinced that the assembly of the entire height of the opening for the window without communication, while from the wrong "short", the task is not the simplest.

Lightweight and short trimming can be used to decay or spike. It may well be that on the bar, deviating to the left, will lay a bar with deviation to the right. As a result, a smooth wall will be built. If both bars will have a deviation in one direction, you can not count on the flat wall.

To eliminate deviations, it is possible to comprising "screws" with the plane, or lay the ladder bar. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using the plane. At each stage, the verticality of the extravagated openings was checked with a plumb.

Installation of jambs and completion of work

The upper crown laid. It is time to mount the shoals of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished design will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full spike. On the upper bars there are contrections in the required places. I apply the guide, I exhibit the desired cut depth and I do a disk saw. After that, I spend a couple of lines from the ends of the sizes of the spike and get rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel.

Spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. Clauses I fill thermally insulated M material. If you wish, you can make spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing at home, cut down the extra material and fill the gaps with the seal.

Inserted temporary struts between jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you plan to make an extension, do not lay the upper crown of the bar before it starts. I also mounted a crown less.

Box ready. I covered it the temporary roof, closed each opening and left the house until the next season. The bar just will have time to give shrinkage. After that, I will continue what I will definitely tell you in my next story.

Instead of imprisonment

While the house gives a shrinkage, I decided to sum up. First, it was pleased that the foundation had to spend much less money if compared with the supports of other types. A little money went to the stone dump truck. Sand in my region is also very much - you can go on myself and bring. Most money went to cement and fittings.

Secondly, pleased with the available cost and relatively small consumption of building material. When the bar was brought, I posted it in a stack of approximately meter height and a two-meter width. At first it seemed that I was silent somewhere and I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 BRUSEV remained unfounded. In general, on the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (it accounts for a brusade in it 6x7.5 m) I spent about 7.5 m3 of the bar with a cross section 15x10 cm. 15x15 cm will spend money for 1.5 more. Yes, and additional labor would have to hire, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Magged did it myself, moss is free. I would gladly gave me friends after the end of our construction events.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized bathrooms and expensive tools. All I used for construction, I will be useful to the farm in the future. Especially happy to acquire a good disk saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of performance. I did not have a special experience of construction from the bar. As practice has shown, over the whole day, working in one hands and, subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can get it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not need to own any special skills. And I personally convinced this.

I hope my story will be useful to you, and you can, as well as I realize my dream about my own home.

Video - a house from a bar do it yourself

Increasingly, the owners of land plots emphasize their choice on the construction of houses from the bar. The main advantage of this solution is the fact that you can build a house from a bar with your own hands. Such a building has exceptional reliability, durability and environmentalities. Directly the technology of building buildings from the bar is extremely simple and understandable. Even with basic skills in construction issues, all work can be made independently, without the need to appeal to construction companies.

What wood can be used to build a house from a bar with your own hands? Photo

Before starting the construction, it is not necessary to choose the most suitable and high-quality material for work. The source qualities of wood are density and durability. In some breeds, these indicators reach the level of most of the metals, so sufficiently high demands are presented to buildings from the bar. Walls of the house must be durable and durable. In addition, they are obliged to provide good noise and thermal insulation.

However, the tree has a number of shortcomings, the main of which is a low level of fire resistance and a tendency to sedimentary deformations, which is often often manifested during the first 2-4 years after the construction process is completed.

Conifer breeds are the most optimal choice for building a building from a bar. This material is distinguished by durability and resistance to rotting processes, it is not cracking and does not have a significant burden on the foundation. For self-erection of the house, it is extremely important to remember that not only the competent technology of construction, but also selected by all the rules the material will give the opportunity to build a good wooden house. Therefore, wood should be dense and wear-resistant.

Profiled or solid bar?

The bar can be profiled or solid. To build, you can use both the first and the second option. To select a specific type of material, you should consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Build a house from a profile bar with your own hands. Video

The profiled bar provides for the presence of a profile. It has vents and spikes. Such compounds are mounted along the entire length of the material, and then the surface is grinding. The bar for the construction of the house is supplied already in the finished form. The owner must only build the construction of them. Among all the advantages of houses from the profiled bar are especially allocated as follows:

1. Relatively low construction work costs.
2. High resistance to deformations.
3. Low difficulty of work.

Building material has an accurate form that allows you to carry out all the required activities to the maximum deadlines. Houses from a similar material possess more attractive appearance and high thermal insulation characteristics.

The advantages of the profiled timber belongs to the almost perfectly smooth surface of the walls. They do not need to additionally sway with any facing material, as they look so superior. The walls from the timber are protected from rotting, since they will not be collected rain and thawed water. The profile is calculated in such a way that the precipitates cannot penetrate into interventic seams.

After the shrinkage of the house occurs, there is no need for spending time and strength to pant. Wood provides excellent windproof and high thermal insulation, since the crowns have compounds of sufficient density.

However, the profiled bar has disadvantages. First, it is not enough to carry many atmospheric influences sufficiently. Secondly, the bar supports burning. Therefore, in order to increase bio and flame retardant properties, wood should be treated with antiseptics and impregnations.

The natural moisture content of the material may lead to the fact that cracks will appear in the warm season on the bar. For this reason, the material must have humidity no higher than 20%. If necessary, you will need chamber drying.

The initial thickness of the walls of the building from the profiled bar will not be enough for optimal use. One way or another, it will have to carry out additional outdoor insulation. However, after the construction is completed, it will be impossible to change the layout or perform the add-on.

Build a house from a whole bar with your own hands. Video

Despite the fact that a solid timber has a not the most presentable species, the material is still widely used in construction. The main advantage is a relatively low price. When preparing wood, its standard humidity is maintained, which makes it possible to get rid of the need for additional procedures and reduces the term of the preparatory phase.

A suitable solid bar can be purchased on any specialized market. Another major advantage of using this material for the construction of the house with their own hands is the absence of the need to apply special equipment or special tools.

However, there are also their drawbacks, to the number of which include:

1. When choosing a bar, you need to be extremely attentive, since unscrupulous sellers provide poor quality ras.
2. Higher expenses for finishing work. To obtain a completed and beautiful appearance of the construction, it needs to be lifted with clapboard or siding.
3. A fungus can begin to form a timber. The reason lies in natural humidity, as the material does not pass special drying technology. Naturally, a bar can be treated with an antiseptic and special impregnation to prevent the formation of fungus, however, it will be necessary to spend extra money and time.
4. After shrinkage, the material cracks. To prevent the formation of such damage, wooden walls need to be sewed on both sides.
5. Interventical seams are greatly blown away. The building from a solid bar is characterized by a significantly smaller level of heat insulation.

Preparation of instruments, materials and project for the construction of a house from a bar with their own hands. Photo

After selecting a suitable type of timber, you can move to the purchase of materials, the collection of necessary tools and the preparation of the project plan. If you wish, you can purchase materials in the finished form. In this case, all bars are trimmed under the required dimensions of the tools. There will already be grooves in the material, and will remain just lay out the building.

If desired, you can save on the material if you prepare it yourself. To do this, pay attention to the following factors:

1. Large and end-to-end cracks are categorically unacceptable.
2. Wood must be absolutely "healthy".
3. The material should not have traces of insect damage.
4. Before use, the timing is necessarily processed by special antiseptic compositions.

Work on the construction of the house from the bar will require the use of a certain set of tools, including:

• gasoline or electric saw;
• yardstick;
• a hammer;
• electric drill;
• level;
• ax;
• electric screwdriver;
• nails, self-tapping screws, jute;
• perforator.

After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, you can proceed with the preparation of the project of the future house from the bar. To do this, you will need to accurately calculate all the required calculations and parameters. The project can be compiled independently, since nothing is difficult in this. Or contact the specialized construction organization.

Building a house from a bar with their own hands: foundation, photo, video

After preparing independently or having received the project, you can begin the arrangement of the foundation. The house made from the bar must be built on a reliable durable base.

When choosing a type of foundation, such parameters should be taken into account as:

1. The main characteristics of the soil on the plot.
2. Design features.

Wooden house can be built on a wooden or concrete base. Most often, a concrete foundation is used, on which the brick base is laid out, and the walls of the bar are erected on top of this design, and then the roof. If only the wooden structure is supposed, the base is made of wood.

Bruus house can be built on:

• fine-breed base;

• bloomed foundation;

• bought base;

• tape type support.

As a rule, a belt or fine-breed foundation is preparing under the house from the bar. 50-70 cm. Staying depth will be enough.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of the walls of the bar of the bar do it yourself. Video, photo

After the establishment of the foundation, you can move to the laying of walls from the bar. At this stage, the most important thing is to choose the optimal assembly technology. Walls are laid out by rows. The new layer falls on the previous one until the desired wall height is obtained.

Brucov has special grooves that provide tight fit to each other logs. Grooves are insulated with thermal insulation. To increase the strength of the walls, it is necessary to use spikes to connect BRUSEV.

The simplified version involves the use of a unprocessed pine timber. The bars weigh a little, so that the construction disappears the need to call special lifting equipment.

In the process of erection of walls from a bar on its own, it is important to take into account a number of major requirements. First, all seams should be legally, which will exclude the possible appearance of the imagination of the walls by the wind. Secondly, the finished walls are processed by special impregnation, increasing fire resistance and durability.

Device roof and floor. Finish finish in the house from the bar do it yourself, photo

Very often, developers who build wooden paving houses are trying to save and make it in the process of building the roof using cheap materials, for example, Ondulin. But it is incorrect - save on the material when finishing the roof for a wooden building is categorically not recommended.

This house element may have different embodiments: it all depends on roofing and rafting systems. Each plot is better equipped with the use of boards of various sizes. For example, rafters are collected from the board with a cross section of 150x40 mm, and to create divosers and racks - 100x40 mm.

If we are talking about the arrangement of the floor and choosing a coating, you need to navigate for personal preferences. The only mandatory moment is the competent waterproofing of the floor and the ceiling. Special attention should be paid to the issue of waterproofing the basement and basement. Moisture protection is performed before screed or alignment. In a paving house, you can use:

• coating materials;
• rolled waterproofing;
• bay compounds;
• penetrating moisture protection.

Casoccoli and basements are waterproofed with their own hands without any problems. This process is simple. It is necessary to choose the most suitable and favorite material and proceed to its installation in accordance with technology.

For wooden floor, coatings are better suited for wood: laminate and parquet - the most optimal option, since the material is convenient and easy to lay.

Regarding more modern materials, it should not have any problems with their installation.

Finish finish of the house from the bar do it yourself, photo

Finally, work on the installation of interroom doors, window frames and partitions are performed. The draft floor is stacked, after which the selected insulation is installed, the finishing floor and the finish coating. The ceiling is frozen by any selected material. At this stage, you need to equip the water supply, sewage, heating and energy supply systems.

The exterior decoration is chosen by the owner of the house independently. If desired, the building can be left without an external finish, unless, of course, the appearance and quality of the material allow such. If you want to get any other appearance, the house can be painted, sheathe it with clapboard, siding, or separated by other materials.

In such a sequence and the construction of the house from the bar is carried out with their own hands. Following technology, you can get a reliable, comfortable and durable structure, without contacting third-party specialists.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

It must be admitted that recently the fashion trend has become a fashionable trend from urban areas to rural. Of course, this decision is not easy and it is necessary to understand that there are considerable troubles in front of the immigrants. The first thing that comes to mind is to take off the private house or repair the old one, but in this article we will talk about how to build a house from a bar with your own hands.

Immediately you need to decide on the criteria to which we will be in the design and construction of the house, namely the relative cheapness, the heat of the room and the comfort.

The customer is strongly recommended regardless of the selected material and the construction method to delve into all stages of the construction process on their own, because only then you can achieve a positive result and get what I really wanted.

Advantages of building a house from a bar

Of course, it is necessary to understand the advantages and disadvantages of the technology that will be applied. First of all, you need to see the photo and video of how the construction of the house from the bar is made with their own hands.

With a photo report and other auxiliary materials, you can find on the appropriate page of the site.

First, it is nice to be in a wooden house - it is an important fact. Secondly, the construction of such a house occurs quite quickly. (The box can be built in four of four days).

Thirdly, if you use that technology that is mentioned in this material, in the brusade house you can move immediately after the completion of the construction. Fourth, no need to work at all, which would be an integral part of construction by other methods.

It is important to identify and cons. The main minus is that the material is used as a tree, the billet of which is carried out by completely unacceptable methods, that is, violating ecology. The second - the house from the bar can not be quitting without decoration. Despite the inexpensive construction, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend an impressive amount of funds for decoration, finishing, to cover the bar with an antiseptic to protect rotting and fungus, etc. In addition, the case will need to be insulated, especially if it is built in places With cold winters.

Construction technology

Of course, it is best to make a project of a house from a bar with your own hands. One of the first steps is the time-consuming markup under bent.

Here it is better to turn to a professional who would help with this stage. The technology is such that on each marked timber chopped peeled immediately: on top and bottom, and this is done strictly by roulette. As a result, if everything is exactly spoiled, the brass is easily sisted one on another.

It is necessary to determine the sequence of actions. For clarity, we recommend watching the video of the construction of the house from the bar with their own hands.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare a workplace: they make some backbone, then the bars are moved. Those who with hump are put, naturally, upstairs, etc. That is, it is necessary to make the markup of the BRUSEV - what will go. Another builder no longer thinks about which side will be the top, and which is lower, - it is already placing, seeing the markup. Next, do the remaining types of marking: end and others.

The choice of material is the priority problem with which everyone faces who is solved by the personally build a small, reliable and comfortable house in its plot. The modern market of building materials can boldly boast a huge assortment of raw materials for every taste and wallet. Most prefer the tree. And it is not surprising, because a wooden bar is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.

This material is represented in several variations, but in the article we will talk about how to build a house with your own hands from the profiled timber, since it is the most common and possesses the simplest installation technology. It is very compliant for processing, which means that you will be able to carry out electrical wiring, water supply and sewage without special difficulties.

Drawing up a plan, preparation of materials and tools

Without a good project, build a house is simply unrealistic, so it is very important to take extremely seriously to this stage, especially since it is for him to clearly understand what can be saved.

Ideally, you can seek help in special design agencies. For a certain fee, they individually make a complete layout of the future at home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, the composition of the soil, financial capabilities and the most important thing - personal preferences.

If you have no need for some miracle of designer thought, you can build a building using typical options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or to use one of several 3D editors programs, among them Floorplan3D, Cybermotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed for the planning of houses from the bar. SEMA will help you to spend all the necessary statistical calculations, pick up the type of the rafter system and much more.

In the drawing, everything should be indicated, ranging from the overall size of the construction and the number of floors to the location of the door and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).

As soon as the plan turns out to be in your hands, you can proceed to the calculation, if it is not yet produced, and the choice of the required materials and tools, including:

• Bar as the main building material.

You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut-off grooves and spikes - drove, installed - use, also due to the perfectly flat and smooth facet of faces there is no need for additional finishing works, or you can buy wooden blanks, and you can do it yourself, there is nothing difficult in it, And you can save well.

Experts recommend taking a sequence of 150x150 mm when building a timing. But since you have to work alone or with an unqualified assistant, it is better to use the material with a cross section of 150x100 mm. Such a bar is much easier, and the missing volume can be restored in the future, the facade is insulated outside the building.

• Insulation.

To save additionally, the materials that, so to speak, are "at hand" can be used as insulation. Moss is the best among these. It is not difficult to find and processed, but according to its technical characteristics, it is identical to his artificial counterparts.

• Nails, self-tapping screws and other fasteners (metal corners, wooden brazed and so on).
• Waterproofing material (for example, rubberoid).
• Ready concrete solution or components (water, sand, crushed stone, cement necessary for its preparation.
• Armature (if a belt foundation is planned).
• Saw.
• Electrolzik.
• Sculpture.
• A hammer.
• Building rubber hammer.
• Roulette.
• Building level.
• Plumb.
• Circular Saw.
• Pipes for water supply and sewage.
• Cable for electricity wiring, TV.
• Master OK.
• Canopate.
• Other tools for small and decorative works.

Wood harvesting and moss for construction

To build a warm and cozy house from a bar, in addition to the knowledge of the technique of laying the crowns, it is important to understand which kind of breed wood is better suitable for this purpose.

Each breed naturally has its advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing is to pay attention to when choosing a lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the tree is fragile, then your home can simply fall apart if the density is small, then such a material can give a shrinkage to 20, or even more percent. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, well, if the raw materials are unattainable, it will be simply impossible to work with it, the material will become too unreliable.

To the walls of the house there are very serious demands, as they should provide heat, comfort and low noise in the rooms, especially since the tree is rather fire-hazardous material that is capable of deforming due to weather precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing a timber from coniferous rocks, such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Due to the large content of resinous substances, coniferous rocks are resistant to rotting, crackling and other deformations. Also, the trees of this breed are very durable, light, so do not create too much load on the foundation.

By choosing a timber bar from a conifer, you can save, building the foundation for a simplified system.

If you decide to prepare wood yourself, then you need to know that the humidity factor should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will begin to appear in the walls that will require additionally processing, and these are extra costs, time and budget.

In the workpiece, consider the fact that it is better to deal with this in the winter period of the year (from January to March), since in the winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices on the tree trunk becomes minimal.

Cut the sawn timber to the desired shape and sizes, process the antiseptic and leave the dry place in an inaccessible to the sun's rays. Bruks need to be compact in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap in 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. Multiple transverse beams are inserted between them. Lowering this 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.

So that your home kept warmth in rainy weather, it is worth thinking about choosing an interventory insulation. Professional builders use modern belt materials, but the price of such pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.

There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but for construction purposes only some kind of varieties are used, among them: sphagnum, cucushkin moss, red and peat. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the minuses are high flamminess, since after drying the moss becomes dry and fragile, for example, at high temperatures it can be self-splashing to prevent it from being treated with special means.

Moss must be assembled, it is possible to find it on the swampy terrain - it is long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaflets, dry and stored in a dry place for about two weeks. Polyethylene packages can be used as bags, but then the moss will be a little wet. There is nothing terrible in this.

Foundation building

Qualitative foundation is a pledge of a reliable, sustainable and durable housing. Since it is it that is the main supporting structure that must withstand the overall weight of the construction, such high demands are presented to it.

When building a house from a bar uses three main types of foundation:

1. Wine-screw.
2. Nesting.
3. Ribbon.

The choice of the foundation type depends mainly from the soil on which the house is planned. This question must be solved on the planning stage. You must analyze the soil, can also be involved in the neighbors, on which foundation are their homes, or search for information in the purchase documents or other reference literature.

If the soil is pouchedled or watery, and also, if it is planned to use the house only after the season, and not live there all the time, then one of the first two options are used. If it contains a large amount of sand or clay, then a ribbon foundation will fit.

The first thing that is worth starting is to clean the territory from garbage, thickets, bushes and other items, which may interfere. Immediately before the church, you need to mark up. To do this, use conventional wooden peasants, which are placed in the corners of the site, as well as along the bearing walls, and the thread that is stretched between them is simple. Subsequent actions depend on the chosen type of foundation.

Pile-screw foundation

After the territory is cleared and ready for further manipulations, go to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles in a specialized store, as it is quite difficult to build such structures by hand. Choose the supports of the same size and must with the presence of already welded on one end.

Due to the special design, the piles are easy to install on their own, while watching the angle of inclination. This can help a building magnetic level. Also, if there were no caps on the screws, it must be installed. To do this, use the treated metal sheet 25x25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 mm.

Nest foundation

The nesting foundation is distinguished only by the fact that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports are used, or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm, in which cement mortar is poured after installation.

As soon as the marking of the territory was carried out, in the selected points around the perimeter, it is necessary to dug holes with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. The sand layer is covered on the bottom, wet and tightly tamper. After that, at a right angle, support structures are inserted into them, if necessary, the solution is poured into the space around them around them. The remaining gaps between the supports and the soil fall asleep with a mixture of sand and rubble.

There is also an option in the dug holes to install formwork and pour with concrete solution to the ground level, we recommend using the M400 grade cement in the 1: 3 ratio. After complete drying of the cement, the formwork is removed and the aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are filled over.

Ribbon foundation

The ribbon foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the overwhelming majority of cases, for example, if you plan to build a heavy two or more storey house.

The first step is to grow trenches with a width of centimeters by 10-15 more, rather than the thickness of the walls and a depth of 50-70 cm. It should be located at an altitude of at least a meter from the level of groundwater slide.

There are several options for a belt foundation, among them:

• Brick.
• Concrete.
• Stone.

For any of them, it is necessary to prepare the basis. At the bottom of the trench, lay a layer (10 cm) of sand, wetted with a small amount of water and carefully tamped, if necessary, you can pour sand in two layers. On top of it, a layer (15-20 cm) of rubble, broken bricks or small stones are poured.

By the way, on the bottom of the trench you can pre-put geotextiles, and the heat insulation material can be installed on the outer edge - it will help prevent the freezing of fine-breed foundation.

On the resulting pillow, if the construction of a brick or stone base is planned, a little without reaching the top of the foundation, you can install a formwork. Inside it is necessary to pour the layer of the solution to the level of the earth's surface and tamper. To increase sustainability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

Already on top, after complete solo, the brick or stones can be ordered, or use the found themselves on their own near any reservoir. On top of the masonry, another reinforcement belt is installed and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and align.

If a concrete base is planned, the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, the thickness is 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned from a tree, then there should be no cracks, chips, irregularities and other defects on the material.

The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between the rows is 5-10 cm. In the end, a mesh should be obtained with a cell of 15-20 kr. For each other, the rods are associated with a rigid wire, the whole design is filled with cement mortar that can either buy or buy, or Preparation personally. We recommend to spend money on the concrete mixer - it will save you time and nerves, as it is quite difficult to interfere with the cement manually and difficult. Pre-formwork must be mixed with water or wrap a layer of polyethylene film.

It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before pouring the solution. This will help the vibration hammer or you can simply break through the holes, later they will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation leaves to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which a few more follows, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent crackling the foundation. Do not forget to make openings for wiring communications.

Construction and insulation of walls and gender

The wines of the first row are traditionally connected to each other, regardless of the method of connecting the subsequent rows, "in drapery" is quite reliable and easy to perform the type of end louds, and they are not directly on the foundation, but on a lining from small plates located cross-very bruster himself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the rails can be filled with mounting foam. To cut the face, you can use the hacksaw, in order to remove the extra material, pass the chisel.

So, if the rails rot, they will be easier to replace, rather than a number of timber. The plank should also be treated with an antiseptic or ground to prevent the development of fungi and various microorganisms, and put on a coated waterproofing material on the two layers, such as rubberoid, the foundation.

The first row bar must have a slightly large size, rather than the crown of the remaining rows, for example, if the wall uses the material with a cross section of 150x150 mm, then for the first row, use the separation of 200x200 mm.

On the lining made of associates can be mounted lags for roughing, using steel corners and nails or self-tapping screws. These must be attached, the so-called cranial bar, which will further fit the cutting board for the draft floor. On top of the draft should be laid a layer of waterproofing, and on top of it the insulation plate, such as minvat, expanded polystyrene or any other modern analog. The next layer goes vaporizolation, and after - clean floor.

All subsequent ranks are stacked identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:

• "With the residue" - this is when a small part of the bar opens from his two ends.
• "No residue."

The picture below shows different types of face lobs.

This manipulation can be made using a disk saw or elktrol bias. Options "A" and "D" ("without residue") are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult in the installation. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. The option "s" is used to connect the internal bearing walls. Also note that the spike-groove connections need to leave the gap in a half-meter for insulation.

Rows are fixed with each other with wooden or metal brazers. We recommend using the second, since when drying will not pass the sawn timber, which will ensure the durability of your construction.

Using bent for fasteners, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill in such a way that the agent of one row of the heating passes through, and the latter bar is only partially or you can use short bent, for this, the holes are cut from two opposite sides, the hammer is driven by a hammer, and the next thing is simply inserted. Remember that brazening should not be located on each other. In order to design, it was most sustainable, place them in a checker order, as shown in the figure below.

If the walls of your home turned out to be longer than the timber - it does not matter. In this case, it is necessary to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one bar, and at the end of the second, the rectangular protrusion is right in the center, so you get the connection "Schip-groove".

The space between the crowns can be insulated with the help of a pre-assembled and dried moss and pacles. The pass is laid across the bars, moss simply throws from above. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will be written out - it is not scary, as it is planned to be carried out on a pantry, and it in turn will ensure maximum thermal insulation.

In order for the bars of one row to be at the same height, we use a rubber hammer, tapping them along the walls after installing each bar. The plans are used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the irregularity of the lower row it is impossible to install the top row beam.

*Important! Do not forget to alternate angular connections.

The last two rows of the crowns are not attached, because in the future, after shrinkage there will be a rafting system. To do this, have to dismantle these two rows.

For the design of the door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all rows, and after, making a mark, cut the necessary holes, or use the beams in advance of such a length, so that they subsequently formed windows and doors. Remember that the size of the opening should exceed the size of the door itself or the window, since it is still necessary to leave a place to install window and door boxes. Also over the windows and doors, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm. This is necessary in order to further when the ram will give a shrinkage, do not damage the designs of the windows of the ID believe. It will be necessary to fill in a liquid insulation.

Roof roofing

After the last row of the crowns was erected, the building is needed to cover with rubberoid or slate and give it. The shrinkage period on average takes up to 6 months, only after that you can move to the installation of the roof and facing work.

There is a huge number of roof variations. The most reliable and stable is the four-minded or hip roof, it is used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is rather difficult to build it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a duplex. Briefly tell about the installation stages and the main elements.

To begin with, it is necessary to isolate the surface of the walls from moisture using, for example rubberoid. It is necessary for two layers. After mocking Mauerlat - the base for the rafter system in which special cuts are made, with which the rafter legs are attached. Mauerlat will serve as a top row of the crowns, previously processed by an antiseptic.

The rafted themselves, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, should be made of a bar with a cross section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200х50 mm. They should not be outside the house of more than half the meter, if more - is expected to install additional supports. It is installed on the racks of 5-6 cm with a thickness of 5-6 cm with a width of 10-20 cm with a step, which depends on the roofing material (the tile - the rolls are placed in bulk if slate or professional flooring - at a distance of 30 cm apart). Sometimes they establish a controlling, on top of which the roofing material itself is mounted. In the resulting space between two inches, the insulation, steam and waterproofing are paired.

The ceiling consists of several ceiling lags, which are attached by the "spike in the groove" method to the top row of the bar. The remaining manipulations are identical to the floor. Between the first and rough ceiling, you can additionally pave the insulation, isolation. In the future, this can reduce heat loss up to 30%.

So that the roof was stable, strong, kept the strong wind and served for many years, it is worth thinking about additional supporting structures, such as a beam, so-in, tightening, racks and others. All of them are attached with hardware, such as steel corners and screws.

Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, a hole for chimney and an attic, if it is planned. The roof fronts can be sewn with a decorative block house.

Remember! Any roof over time requires repair. Therefore, in order to reduce financial expenses, specialists recommend annually to check the coverage for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (riggers, racks, and so on), and the leakage is eliminated by replacing the rotten roofing material.

Suitable

The last stage of construction work is to install inlets and interior doors, windows. If necessary, work is carried out on insulation and decorative wall decoration either inside or outside the house. Conduct electricity, water, heat, plug in the sewage system.

Now that you know the main stages of the construction of the house from the bar on their own, as well as ways to save money, you can begin the construction of a warm, cozy and reliable housing, which will warm and delight you over the years.

All photos from the article

We invite you to consider step-by-step management - how to build a house from a bar with one type or another of the foundation and a double roof. Immediately it should be said that we will not go into the smallest details, since this material is designed for a reader who knows how to keep any tool in his hands. About this below the text, and you are also waiting for the display of the thematic video in this article.

Stages of construction

Note. Do not forget that the longest bar has only 6m in length, and if you plan, for example, a 7 × 8m house, then you will have to dock on the ranks that complicates the installation.

Types of foundations used for wooden houses

Construction method:

• the pillar itself is usually a masonry of brick or concrete blocks, a height of 40-50 cm, which mainly depends on the slope in this area;
• for masonry, a fossa is made, a depth of 20-25 cm and a width of 40-50 cmThe sand pillow is falling asleep there, and then concrete solution is poured. This pillow can be adjusted by the pillar's height - simply adding or removing some amount of concrete mix;
• the distance between the reference points should be no more than 2mIn addition, they should be on every corner and on every junction.

Construction method:

• by the location of the points of the support, the instruction here is the same as in the case of a column foundation - a distance of at least 2m, plus supports on each corner and on each compound;
• for the construction of such a base, metal or asbestos-cement pipes are taken at least 20 cm in diameter and roll it into the ground by 40-50 cm, obtaining a casing pipe;
• then the pipe is poured concrete and reinforced, although it is an optional condition for steel elements.

Construction method:

• if the construction of a brusade house is done with their own hands on a pile-screw foundation, the number of screw piles will be exactly the same as the amount of stamps or pillars;
• such a pile just screws into the ground with the help of the lever to any depth, although it is still to cut up too much;
• such a foundation is very convenient for sites from a large steepness slope - it simply compensates for it.

Construction method:

• ribbon foundations can be monolithic, that is, filled into a trench or formwork with the reinforcement frame, or teams - collected from bricks, stone or blocks;
• the tape depth depends on the state of the soil and weight of the superior construction - they are swallowed and low-boiled;
• outflowed bases are used on bubbly soils, and it must be below the soil freezing point by 40-50 cm;
• such foundations are considered the most good for buildings of any type, although it is not always appropriate, as you can do without cheaper versions.

A little bit about the bar

The timber has not only a different cross section and length, but also by the type of profile - it can be profiled (have grooves for the longitudinal connection). The percentage of the drawing of the architectural structure will depend on the humidity - it can be wet and dried.

Another material varies in the type of manufacturing - it is made from the wood array or glue from the lamellae (the price is strongly changing). Profiles can be made from different breeds of wood, where the most valuable is the Siberian larch, and the Ural spruce goes after it.

All these nuances must be taken into account when designing a house. The fact is that the docking in a smooth fugu requires a sealing laying (jut or linen ribbon) and impudent for fixation.

In addition, it is very important to provide communication channels, such as water supply, sewage, heating, electrification and communications. It is desirable that all "wet" rooms of the type of bath, toilet, the kitchen turned out to be near - it will make it easier for the channels of the channels.

Construction boxes

It all starts with the installation of the strapping, which is installed on the foundation of any type, pre-underlay cut-off waterproofing. When we build a house from a bar with our own hands, then it is to the lower crown that the greatest moisture load accounts for the lower crown.

That is why it can additionally put a wedding board from a larch with a thickness of 50 mm. Or the board or lower crown must necessarily be impregnated with an antiseptic that an order of magnitude increases its operational period.

But let's deal with what benefit is the wedding board? Sooner or later, the bottom will be raised and no drugs will be helped in this, which are treated with wood. But after all, replace the board is much easier and cheaper than the whole crown!