We all know what "break - do not build." However, if you figure it out, the elimination of roofing will not seem coming. Dismantling of any roof should be carried out on clear requirements and extremely neatly so as not to destroy the surrounding items and accidentally do not indulge. What exactly there will be actions to remove an old coating, depends on the cause of dismantling work and the type of material on the roof.

What do you need a dismantling of the roof

Dismantling of the roof is a complete removal of old roofing material from the roof base. But there are cases when at the same time it is necessary to disassemble the entire design (for example, a doom on the rafted roofs).

Sometimes during dismantling of the outdated coating, the hassle

Such a replacement is used if:

Embed to dismantling in two cases:

The second situation is, rather, an exception than the rule. It happens that individual parts of the house are very dense and not destroyed under the influence of massive techniques for the demolition of buildings. Therefore, they have to be disassembled into separate elements.

Video: Removing the old rolled coating with a flat roof with a hand tool

Is it possible to replace the coating without dismantling

Quite often on a flat roof, a new rolled material is placed directly on the old coating.

Laying the rolled coating on top of the old material is commonly used as saving money during roof repair

Usually they do when they want to speed up the repair work and spend on them a minimum of finance. Therefore, after several similar repairs, the roof is hiding under numerous layers from a roll backrueroid.

A large number of layers of rolled coating on a flat roof over time turns into a problem with moisture flow between layers

And subsequently, when such a complex coating begins to flow and hold the moisture in different places between the layers, then you have to spend a lot of strength to dismantle it.

Dismantling of old numerous layers of a roll roof takes a lot of time and effort

Therefore, it is much more intelligible at the first major overhaul to completely remove the entire old material and close the surface of the new, and not put the patchwork everywhere, waiting for the appearance of new holes nearby.

The roof cutter helps and speeds up the work on removing the old rolled coating with a flat roof

If it is still decided to sharpen a new layer of roll coating on a flat roof on top of the old, then it is important to comply with the following rules:

• clean the surface from dirt and dry;
• eliminate all bubbles (cutting and sizing mastic);
• stop rolls from the bottom of the flat roof up and strictly across the slope (i.e., the panels should be located along the so-called cornix).

Video: Laying a new coating on top of the old with violations of technology

Roof from which materials can be updated without disassembly

Defeated to lay on the pitched roof a new coating directly on the old author of the article advises to first check the strength of the rafted and doom. This is important, since with a double layer of roofing material, the pressure on the roof frame will increase significantly. To estimate the condition of the supporting structure of the roof and boards of the root, can be removed from 0.5 to 1 m². On the reliability of the elements of the wooden frame indicates the absence of rotten and tracks, which are trying in the insects in the wood. Damaged items need to be removed or enhanced by the feeding of additional wooden parts.

The new roofing is allowed to mount on the old one, if the following materials were first applied:

• ruberoid (or other rolled soft material);
• profiled sheets;
• metal tile;
• flat metal sheets;
• slate.

On top of the spike time spike often mounted ondulin

It is better to take metal tile, ondulin or professional flooring as a second finishing roof covering.Other materials will be too hard and deform the roof.

Laying the finishing material over the old roofing is made step by step:

Video: Installation of a new metal roof on the old

Dismantling of the roof with your own hands

Removal of any roofing is carried out by special technology. In the dismantle, it is necessary to stick to the discipline, because the drop in materials down always threatens the spoke of other parts of the building or items within walking distance.

Preparation for work and tools

Starting to remove the roof covering, you need:

• remove all communication devices;
• remove pipes, pipelines.

The following tools and devices will be required to dismantle:

You can also use a specialized technique, which will help faster and better to dismantle a soft roofing (electric carpet of a roll roof, a soft tiles and other).

Electric carvers can be adjusted to a certain teething depth of a soft rolled roof, which helps to quickly remove the layers of the old coating from the base

Video: New technology - Ringing the old coating of soft tiles together with nails

If there is no special device for moving materials from the roof to the ground, then put a block system. Its mechanism is going from:

• tolstoy boards - supports on the roof so that the edge of the roofing boundaries on the meter is to the meter;
• blocks - fixed in the middle and end of the board;
• rope - is carried out through blocks and clung to the blackboard;
• flat board with a size of 0.5x0.5 m (or more) is a mobile site.

The mechanism with the rope allows you to carefully remove, and not throw off the old roofing materials from the roof

Further actions are determined by which material to be removed from the roof.

Differences in the disassembly of different types of roofing

The process of disassembling each coating is specific.

Old slate is removed from the roof a few steps:

So that nails are faster and easier from slate, it is worth doing this work together. One worker must be in the attic and pushing the fastest hammer up, and the other is to be on the roof and pull them out.

While one worker enjoys a nail, another hammer pushes fastening from the side of the attic

Fold coating are removed as follows:

The correct dismantling of the folding coating begins with the area around the pipes and other speakers. It continues in the arrangement zone of auditory windows. And ends in the area of \u200b\u200bthe scenes.

Metal products from the roof are cleaned in a different way:

If necessary, remove soft material from the roof (for example, runneroid) as follows:

When it is required to remove the old vapor barrier or moistureproof film, act depending on which material is dealing with.

Ruberoid, which was used as a waterproofer, are pushed by a spatula and remove from the surface. The film or membrane material is cleaned, carefully pulling out the brackets, because it can be reused. The bituminous coating is removed in the complex with the extender and utilize.

The design of rafters and dohes disassemble, acting by scrap, ax and chain electrical saw.At the same time are not on the roof, but in the attic. To remove the elements located at an altitude of 1.5-3 m, create frames.

Single roof rafters are cleaned by the attic

Disassembly of the rafter system and dooms are performed in 3 stages:

1. At a distance of 0.5-1 m from the ceiling overlap, several boards are torn off.
2. Through the formed hole pull out the boards below.
3. Disassemble the top of the design.

If the rainstream changes, then first clean the metal parts, and then from the roof, the rafters themselves are removed.

Slot rafters get rid of fasteners, after which they simply lowered to the ground

When the supporting structure consists of hanging rafters, remove everything, except for each fifth bug board. These elements should stand still to the very end, otherwise the farms collapses. The last wooden parts are removed at one at the moment when the farms are ready for transportation with the help of a crane.

The first in the system with hanging rafters remove racks and saws

Video: Removing the soft roof using an electric dress

The cost of dismantling with the involvement of professionals

To understand how much disassembly of a flat roof with professionals, do the following:

• by the formula of the rectangle area find the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof;
• learn how much the dismantling is 1 m² of roof (including the removal of vaporizolation, insulation and other parts);
• this amount is multiplied by the roof area.

Suppose that we need to order a dismantling of a roof of 300 m² made of metal tiles. Knowing that under the finish coating of the roof, a rapid system is arranged, a stepshelter, a counterfeit, layers of heat, steam and waterproofing, we calculate the approximate (minimum) cost of work (see table below):

1. 150 + 50 + 80 + 15 + 46 + 40 + 40 \u003d 421 rubles / m²;
2. 421 * 300 \u003d 126300 rub.

Table: Dismantling price 1 m² roof

Type of work	Measure measure	Cost in rubles
Dismantling of soft roof from bitumen	1 m²	from 80.
Full disassembly of the roof (waterproofing coating, screed, insulation)		from 170.
Dismantling of the rafter system		150–500
Dismantling of the folded roof		55–100
Dismantling of natural tile		190
Dismantling flexible tile		50–120
Dismantling metal tileage		50–121
Dismantling of solid dohes		90
Disassembly by step doom		80
Dismantling controls		15
Dismantling insulation		46
Dismantling vaporizolation		40
Dismantling of the waterproofing film		40
Disassembly of bituminous waterproofing		30
Dismantling supporting doomles		80
Dismantling of the drain system	rm. meter	100–150
Dismantling		100–150
Dismantling of mansard windows	pC.	1000–1500

Dismantling the roof as well as construction is performed on clear instructions. Careless attitude to this process often turns around by a spoofing of a number of buildings and serious harm to their health.

Dismantling of the roof - the occupation is not such a simple, as it seems at first glance. This requires special training.

Dismantling the roof is a rather complicated occupation that requires special training.

What do you need dismantling the roof coating

To begin with, it is worth understanding why the roof dismantling is needed.

1. During the overhaul of the house or roof. If the repair of the room under the roof is not made, the roof dismantling is made in parts, after which a new roof is installed.
2. Often the demolition of the building is carried out by explosion or by excavator, however, there are cases in which these methods are not suitable due to the density of construction or other factors. In such cases, it is necessary to disassemble the building neatly. Roofing should be dismantled in stages, in the process to export the construction trash.

To disassemble the coating, you can contact the company that specialize in this, or to produce the process.

Required actions to dismantle a soft roofing

Removing a soft roof is recommended to perform in a cool period of time when the temperature on the street does not exceed 20 degrees of heat. The reason is that the soft roof consists of bitumen and when heated can change its properties, become a greater degree of tight than fragile. This may make much more complicate the process.

Slot rafters disassembled on the principle of removing free lying elements, after removing metal fasteners: brackets, brazen, twist, etc.

There are several ways to remove a soft coating:

1. The use of strokeski can speed up and simplify the dismantling of the roof in case the roofing coating exceeds 3 cm.
2. With the help of a roofing ax (an ordinary ax, which is welded to a thick pipe with a diameter of 3-4 cm), you can chop the roofing layer per squares.

After the roofing coating is broken into squares using one of the selected methods, it must be separated from the cement screed or plates with an ax. All this will need to throw out into the building container. It is worth saying that the process is not as easy as it may seem at first glance, and its complexity will depend on the number of layers of the old roof.

Anyway, it is important to note that the quality of the new roofing is completely depends on how preparatory work was performed and the old roof was dismantled.

Required actions to remove the scope roof

Dismantling the roof should begin with the preparatory work:

1. It is necessary to comply with temporary racks and tricks of the attic coating.
2. All communication lines (television or radio antenna) must be dismantled.
3. All plumbing devices, electrical wiring need to be dismantled.
4. Perform disassembly of flue pipes.
5. Remove all advertising structures.

1. Disassembly of the roof is worth starting with the removal of the coating near the pipes, walls and other parts.
2. To disassemble metal tiles, you need to remove the lining of the winds of the wind and olem elements. The metal tile sheets themselves are sized in order from top to bottom. After that, it is necessary to dismantle the drainage system and the bottom end.
3. For sprinkling rafters, you need to remove all metal parts, then remove freely lying elements.
4. To disassemble rafters, formwork and crates worth using a chain portable electric saw, an ax and scrap. If there is, you need to leave each 5-6 obreshetin to avoid the collapse of the rafter farms. After that, you need to remove the remaining bars of the crates, fascinate the farm and immerse it with the help of a crane on the construction site or immediately completely for road transport.
5. All materials that were dismantled, at the end, need to be folded in packages and store on so that it can be transported to the warehouse.

The required composition for performing work

Dismantling the roof should be made with a composition of two roofers, and the disassembly of the rafter system is a composition of two or three carpenters and one rigger. All employees must be fixed to the roof using safety belts.

A few years ago, I purchased a garden plot on which the Shed and the house were stood. The latter was built in the early 70s of the last century, as they say, "From what was", and according to the technology, "like a neighbor."

The house with an attic was a frame design. Outside, it was loudly lining, from the inside - an unedged board, and on top of her - plywood. At one time, the house looked, probably quite well, but at the time of the purchase of "overlook" problems. And the main one was that due to the deformation of the column foundation, the house leaned greatly in one direction.

My attempts to straighten the situation were not crowned with success - the house continued to fall. Having all the "for" and "against", I decided to disassemble it. And no capabilities - carefully. At the same time, it came from the fact that during the construction of a new house "BESCHER" material may probably come in handy for creating formwork, roughing, scaffolding, rooting, etc.

The sequence of work was determined from the most common considerations - to start logical from above and gradually move down. So the house will not collapse ahead of time and, moreover, the first floor at the initial stage can be used as a warehouse.

In order not to lose the spring when it runs quickly, I began to work in the winter.

A few words about nails. While there was winter, torn off the inner covering boards, I left in the house on the first floor. Immediately, the nails pulled out nails, sorted them and folded into different vests. The times, when they were able to build without a single nail, passed, and at the time of work there were accumulated about 4 vestors of nails, which I planned to reuse. The savings on it turned out small (with an average price for 1 kg of nails about 100 rubles. It comes out - about 4 thousand). Nevertheless, such trifles can significantly reduce the total costs.

Of course, at the same time it is not necessary to fall in extremes, trying to certainly, at the same time it is not necessary to fall in extremes, trying to pull out every nail. Everything needs a reasonable approach.

For example, if the boards in the future are supposed to be used for finishing, then nails are better to pull out everything so that when processing does not damage the tool. And if the board will be used for auxiliary purposes, let's say on the formwork, some nails can be hooked.

Storage material.

Why did I start with nails? The point here is not only in savings, but also in the convenience of subsequent storage. Boards with sticking nails occupy about 3 times more space. And when you have only 6 acres with the old garden and buildings on them, you quickly begin to understand that the area must be saved.

The costs of time to pull the nail and to get it up, are almost the same.

It is necessary to take care of the material attentively, so that you do not have to drag the boards and birch from place to place several times. We must think in advance all further actions during construction.

For example, if earthworks are planned, then the boards are better attributed from the future to the way, so that they do not interfere with the work. In addition, for stables it is better to choose a place higher. Then they will not be in the pool after the rain or from the melting snow in the spring. It is also desirable for them to put an opaque material so that the grass does not grow under them. For this purpose, I used the runneroid, which was removed from the walls and roof.

In addition, as a temporary warehouse, I used the old greenhouse. Many glasses in it were knocked out, so that the boards do not drop the rain, I also covered it rubroaloid.

Sawdust, glass gamble and safety. After dismantling the inner finish of the attic, I went down to the first floor. I want to once again note that at the first stage, the rack did not touch, in order to prevent collapse, but he drove only the trim.

As a heater in overlapping the first floor, sawdust and fine chips were used in front of lime. Lime additive is a very old and reliable way to get rid of mice. In any case, the traces of these annoying rodents in sawdust I did not find. But in the glasswheel, they lived freely ..

Sawders were dry, so I also decided to save "just in case" - poured into plastic bags and put under the roof. In the future, they can come in handy in direct appointment, and if not, they will go to fertilizer.

Under the trimming of the first floor, a glass gamble was laid. This created an additional problem, since it is not safe to work with it, and after the past years it crumbled in the hands, which created extra difficulties.

To then be noticed, I took precautions. First, put on clothes from dense fabric and fastened to all buttons. She put on his head a special helmet, and on the hands - two pairs of gloves (first - tissue, and from above - rubber). It must be said that often this protection of the glass gambler pierced, and then I suffered, trying to pull the brittle offices.

Secondly, I put on glasses and a respirator.

And, thirdly, so that the glass gamble in the disassembly less dust, I previously sprayed it with water, and the extracted pieces of the insulation immediately laid 120 liters into polyethylene bags. This is, in my opinion, the optimal size by weight and volume. However, if the glass gamble is very wet, it is better to use the bags of 60 l, making a nail of several holes for water drain.

It is appropriate to say a few more words about safety techniques. Work on the analysis of old buildings is often not necessary without injury.

For example, when disassembling the roof, I stand at the bottom on the stairs, tried to tear the eaves to the fronton. But I did not calculate the forces, she broke away and fell on my head, unprotected even a cap. It is good that a rusty nail only snapped the skin on the head, and did not stick to the head. But put the seams in the traumopuncture still had to. Therefore, I strongly advise everyone who is preparing for similar work - follow the security technique!

Demolition and disassembling the roof of the old house.

After the inner covering and insulation were removed, I climbed onto the roof. There was already spring on the courtyard, the snow went down, and the roof was not slippery.

First removed slate. Its after removing nails dropped, trying to direct sheets down vertically, so that they stick into the ground, and not falling plastics. In the latter case, they would certainly be broken. I did not plan to use Slate in the future, but I came out of the fact that the more careful to remove it, the smaller the fragments, which will also have to collect. And I did not make any special measures to preserve sheets, as it would significantly slow down work.

After slate, I removed the metal strips for fastening the runneroid, and then the referee itself.

Assistants.

When the roof was removed, to continue the disassembly of the roof alone was uncomfortable, and for this work I had to hire assistants. Considering that everything else I did myself, I spent 7 times less money to demolish the house than if I hired a brigade of the "destroyers" for this. Of course, I lost my time in time, but I won the money and restart the materials. Wide working workers would never be ceremony with my boards, as they need to do work as quickly as possible.

Disassembling the walls and overlap of the base.

After the outdoor walls of the walls were removed, a frame remained, consisting of old bars and bric. The greatest difficulty was the birch, which were used as the beams of overlapping - they were the most difficult. After pulling out the bricken from the nest, I rolled them along the guides to the edge of the frame and dropped down. Roll easier than to wear. When the upper birch was removed, the walls of the walls were piled in different directions.

The lower overlap, stood by almost 2 years in the water, was raw and heavy, but his disassembly had no difficulty for me. With long logists who served lower strapping, a neighbor helped me. (Together with your neighbors and help each other!)

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Any homeowner dreams of seeing his home warm, dry and comfortable. In many ways, it depends on the roof state. If something is wrong with the roof, then the problems one by one will begin to make himself felt. So questions related to its current, or even overhaul, one way or another, cannot be avoided.

Many wonder what is better, constant repairs or a roof replacement. From the point of view of budget, it is undoubtedly preferable to carefully patch it. However, as practice shows, frequent small repair does not particularly contribute to the improvement of the structure of the structure: it continues to wear out, and cracks only multiply. A more rational option will be a complete dismantling.

On a note

For the sake of justice, it should be noted that the need to upgrade occurs not only for the problem roof. A new roof is mounted, for example, with reconstruction or redevelopment of the house.

When you need a new roof

A rather convincing argument to replace the roof of a garage or residential building will be a wet stain that spread over the ceiling during, heavy rain, not to mention the water dripping from its surface.

Annual prophylactic examination of the roof and a rafter design will allow to identify the scale of repair work and to work out if necessary, the roof replacement strategy includes:

• Remove the coating completely or use as a substrate for a steel sheet.
• Test the condition of the supporting structure, including the crate;
• Check the correspondence of diagonal measurements, otherwise, due to disorders in the rafter, different sinks will turn out.

Repair work suggest three possible versions:

1 If we are talking only about cracks on roofing, and damage did not affect the rafter system, it will simply be changed to the coating on a new one, for example, to replace on. 2 If the roof coating is revealed by rotting or fungus on the crate, it will also be needed to repair the framework. 3 And finally, with serious damage to the system of rafters, thermal insulation, holes in the flooring we are dealing with the most difficult option. It requires a complete reconstruction, since, in contrast to the previous case, damage to the heat-insulating layer is sufficient to substantiate the replacement of the insulation of the roof. A significant scale of work leads to an increase in cost. The price for 1M 2 will be formed from the total amount of all expenses, to dismantle, buy and install a new material.

Dismantling

Many prefer to change slate on professional flooring. A similar choice has its advantages. Proflists:

• have low weight, so do not require the strengthening of the rafter system;
• resistant to mechanical and natural impacts;
• incomparably more durable than slate;
• They can be stacked independently and reliably protect the roof of the flow;
• It can be considered a budget coating, with the exception of models covered with pural.

Mounting scheme

• If possible, neatly dismantle the slate, trying not to damage the rafters.
• Inspect the roof for replacing or repair of some areas of the supporting structure: the fallen replacement, the wood is impregnated.
• It is suitable for vapor-waterproofing: the film is placed in the brass without much tension.
• As thermal insulation, polystyrene foam plates either are most often used.
• The professional flooring is assembled with the allen in one or two waves, starting with the end part. A sealant is applied on the plane roof to the places of overlay.
• For the fastening of the professional flooring, only self-tapping screws are used, equipped with rubber gaskets (with the exception of endanda). It is necessary for complete protection of the design from moisture.

  This question arises when old designs come into disrepair, or the roof needs to be updated from aesthetic considerations. When repairing fairly old houses, it will probably have to remove the roof covering.

  • When inspecting the framework, special attention should be paid to the state of the rafter. The roof is quite maintainable - any detail of the replace. At the same time use additional fixtors of strength. For this, boards are suitable that can be temporarily connected by the available beams that are not subject to dismantling. After that, it is possible to shoot low-quality rafters without fears, since the frame will definitely not collapse.
  • No less attention requires Mauerlat. If signs of rotting are found, damaged parts are necessary to cut down and insert new and securely secure them with plastie linings or use tie bolts. In principle, Mauerlat can be replaced with a new completely, carefully dismantling in parts with replacing new on the perimeter.
  • Renovating the roof frame, re-lay the coating.

Professional flooring is one of the most affordable and economical materials for overlapping roofing with their own hands. The metal coating is successfully used by developers when erecting private houses, veranda, terraces, arbors, baths and economic buildings.

Features of working with a straightener

The installation of the roof of the corrugated floor is performed using a standard set of tools available even from beginner masters. Depending on the executed construction phase, it will be necessary:

• set for measuring - Roulette, Rope Motion, Level, Pencil;
• set for working with materials - Knife or scissors for metal, hammer, sealant (for convenience, you will need a gun), construction stapler;
• electrical equipment - screwdriver, drill with screwdrides of the desired diameter.

Professional property is made of metal, so for its cutting will require special scissors or an electrolybiz

When working with a straightener, it should be remembered that its polymer coating can only withstand cold processing. For the convenience of cutting this material, it is recommended to use in addition to the scissors for metal electrolovka and hacksaw. Cutting professional flooring with a grinder with an abrasive circle.

Metal parts of the coating last longer, if anti-corrosion primer is applied to the location of the cut.

For fastening a professional flooring to a wooden basis, it is used in the manufacture of which durable galvanic galvanized steel is added.

For fastening a sheet of professional flooring, a roofless self-tapping screw is used with hermetic rubber gasket

In addition, a rubber gasket is used to each mounting element in the set, which provides a hermetic compound of materials. With its help, metal sections are reliably protected from moisture, and a wooden lamb - from the rotation process.

Roofing screws are selected according to the following parameters:

• depending on the height of the wave of the proflist and the method of its attachment, it is possible to use products with a size of 4.8 × 35, 4.8 × 60 or 4.8 × 80 mm;
• details should be treated with a layer of zinc with a thickness of at least 12 microns;
• the metal should include a stabilizer protecting material from aging due to the effects of ultraviolet rays;
• the screw of the self-press should be covered with a powder paint layer not thinner than 50 microns;
• it is necessary to distinguish between the purpose of hermetic gaskets from a different material: Elastomeric is used when fixing the professional sheet, aluminum - for mounting endands.

Fastening elements should be chosen in the color of the polymer coating of the professional flooring.

When laying a metal roofing, polyethylene or polyurethane foam seals can be used. They are fixed to the doom, creating a layer under the professional flooring. The task of these materials is to reduce noise from precipitation, leaves and branches falling on metal sheets, as well as in improving thermal insulation and increasing the operational period of the roof.

Under the roof, it is necessary to lay a polyethylene or polyurethane foam layer to protect the roof from birds and cold air flows.

Both sides of the sealing canvas are covered with glue, and for ventilation it is equipped with special holes. Thanks to the seal, it is possible to close the gaps formed between the profrects and the main design of the roof. This installation will protect the roof from birds, insects and cold air flows.

Selection and installation of professional flooring

Due to the presence of ribbiness in the form of waves created by the method of cold profiling, the sheet metal roof copes flawlessly with external load. The low market price, the variety of color options and the convenience of installation allows you to use this material both in industry and in the work of private developers.

The degree of strength and durability of the roof depends not only on the correctness of the installation of the professional flooring, but also on the compliance with the technology of assembling the entire roofing design.

Calculation of materials for installation of roofing

Depending on the roof design chosen at the design stage, its form can be rectangular, triangular or trapezoidal. To fulfill the calculations, it is enough to apply simple formulas from the geometry school year. The total area of \u200b\u200bthe roofing surface is determined by the addition of the areas of all skates. In addition, it is important to know the length of the other elements of the roof, which includes:

• skate elements;
• endow;
• ribra;
• adjoining designs;
• farmery and end skes.

In addition to the main coating, there are quite many special challenges on the roof of the professional flooring

Under the profiled sheet width, you can understand:

• full transverse size, which is usually equal to 1180 mm;
• useful or working width, which remains after deducting the stock for Fast Sheets (most often only one wave). It is usually equal to 1100 mm.

When installing, only operated by the operating parameters of sheets should be operated.

For example, for a house of 3 * 5 m with a duplex roof you will need such components:

• professional sheets - 18 pcs.;
• konon - 3 strips of 2 m;
• skate seal - 6 pcs. 2 m;
• face plank - 7 pcs. 2 m;
• curisa Plank - 6 pcs. 2 m;
• roofing screws - 200 pcs.

After completing simple calculations, it is possible not only to quickly cope with the installation of roofing material, but also minimize the amount of its residues.

How to install professional flooring on the roof

When buying a professional flooring, do not forget to take instructions for using the material.

Consider the installation sequence of the roof using a professional flooring.

Highlights that should be taken into account when laying a coating

Depending on the shape of the roof, the starting place is determined. On a rectangular skate, laying from any of the ends on the cornisa line is allowed. When working with a trapezoid or triangular roof, the laying option should be in advance, considering that the first sheet is better to fix in the center of the cornice line with further symmetrical installation of sheets on both sides of the skate.

On rectangular rods, sheets of professional flooring are stacked in a checker, starting from any edge

If a drainage system is installed on the roof, then the professional flooring should hang 60 mm, if the design does not imply the elements of the drain, then the amount of the sink is determined on the basis of the sheet brand:

• professional flooring of the National Assembly of National Assembly allows Svet to 100 mm;
• proflists of the C-44 brand, NS-35 are stacked with a 40-300 mm sink.

When attaching the first sheet, it is aligned from the end and the roof cornice. The following coating elements, pre-fastened along the longitudinal part, are aligned on the cornice design and are screwed to a wooden trim. According to such a scheme, all rows of coating are locked.

Fasteners of the professional flooring at the place of the sheets of sheets is made in the upper wave, and in all other places - in the lower

When screwing the screws, it should be remembered that sheets located near the eaves require a reinforced attachment in a step of 30-40 cm. On the surface of the professional leaf, the self-sufficiency is located at a distance of no more than 1 m in a checkerboard order. Longitudinal trays are fixed by self-drawing at the top of the profile with a step of 30-50 cm.

Consumption per 1 sheet of coating is about 7-8 self-tapping screws. The size of the inlet of the upper row of the material on the lower is determined on the basis of the slope of the skate, and is usually 10-30 cm.

An alternative to screwdriver when screwing the screws can become a drill with the reverse function, the speed of which can be smoothly adjusted during operation.

Description of the main stages of work with professional flooring

The sequence of work depends on the type of roof erected. If cold roof is satisfied, then two basic operations are performed:

1. Creating a waterproofing layer. The purpose of waterproofing consists in preventing the negative effect of condensate formed in the underlined space on wooden design details. Choose from a large number of options the necessary material will not be difficult. When installing, it should be remembered that the film is attached to the cut before installing the roofing coating. The waterproofing canvas should slightly sag. It is important to be convinced of the uniformity of the steps of the dores of the root, where in the future the professional flooring will be attached.

   Waterproofing film stacked with a small provis company and fixed by transverse rails

2. Staying coating from the professionalist. The installation of a reliable wooden flooring is 100 cm on both sides of the suspension. At the same time, the boards are becoming reached under Undova with a fastener and an indent of 20 cm from the lower parts of the rtevoy slats. The bottom beam can be fixed with nails, but it will be possible to achieve its stable fastening only at the stage of completion of construction work. Next, the lower endow is installed with the preliminary flanging or with the inflection of the upper ending skate on the roofing horse. When installing it is important to verify that the plane is started under the horse at 25 cm and more. It will not be superfluous to lay an additional seal between end and coverage sheets. When working with rectangular skates, it is recommended to first perform the installation of endboards, which will significantly facilitate the subsequent location of the professional flooring.

   Profile sheets are stacked after the design of all joints and adjoints with the help of endands

If the roof requires insulation, then the sequence of installation work is as follows:

1. A vapor barrier film is stacked on which the lamb is mounted.

   Vaporizolation film stacked on rafters and fixed with brackets

2. The heat insulating material is mounted between rags (it is recommended to choose a heater in the form of mats or plates). If it is necessary to lay a multiple layer of thermal insulation material, it must be placed in a checker order so that there are no cross-cutting gaps.
   

   Solar Plates should enter the space between rafters with tangible tension

3. The waterproofing film is stacked, which records the control.
4. The roofing material is mounted.

   The device of roofing cake involves the mandatory presence of a ventilation gap to remove the condensate formed on the back of the professional flooring

Video: Installation of professional flooring with your own hands

Additional roof elements

When arranging a profiled roof with a drainage system, you must take care of the installation of all items before the laying of the coating is started:

1. Roofing horse. On both sides of the skate to the doom at the location of the skate, additionally several boards are naked. Two ventilation gap should be provided in the skate. The waterproofing material is covered with the entire surface of the skate, leaving only 10CC wide bandwidth to the skate. To maintain normal ventilation, professional flooring is placed with an indent of 5 cm from the skate element. The fastening of the skate is carried out on a screw of 4.8 × 80 mm in size at the top of the profile after each 30-40 cm. From the ends of the ridge plank, plugs are put.

   The color of the skate can be chosen to the roofing

2. Face plank. The length of the standard product is 2 m, in the event of an increase in the bar, it is necessary to observe the amount of the outlet of parts at 10-15 cm. Install the end bar so that at least one wave of the roofing sheet is overlapped. For fasteners, self-tapping screws are used, which connect the bar with the end board and a straw.

   Face plank protects roofing from lateral wind

3. Plank adjoining. Upon completion of the construction of the roof fasten the strips of the adjoining. The length of the parts is 2 m, when they are installed, it is important to withstand the launch of 20 cm. Self-tapping screws 4.8 × 19 mm are used in a step of 40 cm. For high-quality adjuncing walls and roofing end, laying the skate seal, and in the side of the lateral adjustment Mounted longitudinal seal. If the rod is cool, then the longitudinal laying is not required.

Video: Fastening of Dobly Elements

Rules of crossing of the cornice using a professional sheet

The decoration of the roof of the roof with metal sheets is performed according to the following scheme:

Video: Lights of the roof skes from the proflist

Incorrect installation of corrugated: causes of errors and ways to eliminate them

Among the main causes of errors in the construction of roofs from the professional flooring are distinguished:

• incorrect selection of materials;
• incorrect calculation of professional flooring;
• failure to comply with the performance of work.

Eliminate the shortcomings associated with the calculation of the material can be independently based on a number of rules:

1. Be sure to measure the complete roofing surface (for all skates) immediately before purchasing building materials.
2. Based on the data of two diagonal measurements of one slope, while the difference between the figures received should not exceed 2 cm.
3. Pick the brand of the professional sheet depending on the roof area. So, for a small roof is the optimal brand C-18, 20, 21. The large surfaces are subject to significant loads, so the professionalist of the NA-35, 60 brand is suitable for them.
4. Check the inclination of the coating elements immediately before screwing the screws.
5. Place the professional flooring against the wind to protect against penetration inside the rainwater and melting snow.

Perform work on solving the problem of incorrect installation can be independently:

Video: How to fix the wrong installation errors

Dismantling of the roof of the corrugated

Determine the sequence of work when parsing the coating of profiled sheets is simple enough - it is necessary to recall the sequence of the stages of the installation of the coating and perform the opposite. First you need to remove skate planks, visor and other elements, and then remove sheets of professional flooring. As for tools, it all depends on the fasteners used. If the installation was made by self-drawing, then they should be armed with a screwdriver, when working with nails it is enough to have a nail-made.

If the straightener was nailed to nail, it will take a nail

Is it possible to repair the roof from the professional flooring and how to do it

The scale of repairing roofing is determined by the degree of damage. First of all, a thorough inspection of the roof is performed to detect a malfunction. If we are talking about such minor defects, as a leakage, the lesion of the metal rust, mold or the appearance of fistula, then the roof repair scheme will be generally one for all cases.

So, when detecting, for example, the leakage of the roofing material, experts recommend checking the quality of tightening of self-tapes with a rubber seal. If the installation of the roof has been completed recently, then, as a rule, to eliminate troubleshooting, pull the fasteners.

With more serious defects, the following works are performed:

1. Replacing profiled sheets.
2. Repair or laying new roofing screed.
3. Replacing the aprons in places of adjacent roofing elements, parapet, eaves.
4. Installing new drows of the drainage system.

Often, problems arise with structural joints. Repair of scratches, small roof cracks can be carried out by seating the places of defect or installing a special sealing tape, and to eliminate deep holes impose patches from special mastic. If there are remnants of metal sheets, you can cut the part of them the desired size and weld over the damaged surface.

For the repair of the roof in case of leakage, you can use a sealing tape

Repair of fistula is carried out using a pacle dipped in a hot bitumen, and patches from the same mastic. To eliminate large defects, used burlap or rubberoid, of which the patch is cut on 25-30 cm wide and longer than the dimensions of the hole in the roofing coating. Initially, the place around the hole is thoroughly cleaned with a metal brush and soaked with hot bitumen. As soon as the surface dries, treated with bitumen mastic, burlap or rubberoid segment is superimposed on top of it in several layers. A hot bitumen is poured on top to the patch.

The roofing coating from the professional flooring has many advantages over other similar materials, but only with competent installation and timely repair it will decorate the house and serve the protection of its owners over the years.