Automatic repair is a difficult and troublesome occupation. To facilitate this work and create favorable conditions, it will be necessary to make a plumbing table. Drawings and schemes for this can be different, but the principle of how to build a convenient workbench for the garage with your own hands, one. The device must be compact and not occupy a lot of space.

It is best to build a prefabricated workshop so that it can be folded or cleaned. A simple design can be performed entirely of wood. This inexpensive material is quite easy to find and very easy to handle. But wooden products have a flaw - this is a tendency to burning. To make a less dangerous and most reliable plumbing workbench, it is necessary to make a homemade metal structure. However, due to the simplicity and ease of construction, most motorists most often choose a tree.

Necessary materials:

• wooden bars;
• different boards;
• hinges;
• nails;
• screws.

Initially, it is necessary to decide on the construction of a fitting table. If the area has sufficient length, then it is better to install the workbench at the rear wall opposite the gate. This will give the opportunity to work when the car is in the garage. With this location of the workbench, the side passages will remain empty, which will be very convenient for the repair of the car. When the room has more free space in width, the best installation option will be on the side. For Russian models at the left wall, and for foreign cars to the right, which will ensure a safer entry and caring from the garage.

Simple model

To do this will be needed:

• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• ordinary drill or kollet;
• hand saw;
• simple level;
• small roulette;
• sharp ax;
• a hammer.

Describe and install in the garage, the homemade plumbing table is easy. But you first need to determine the place, and then select the material. To build a simple workbench, any boards and wooden bars are perfect. This is the best way to require rather modest knowledge at the school level. In addition, cash costs will not be so great, since old bars and boards can be used to build such a table. Since the wood is easily and quickly handled, it will take very little time to the whole of the wooden workbench.

When the preparation is completed, and the appropriate material is found, it should be initially started to build a framework. To do this, it is necessary in the garage at the place to make measurements of the future table and drink 4 bar for the bed. Of these, two longs will be located along the wall, and short perpendicularly. Next, you need to make legs. The height of the workbench in the garage should be slightly below the belt, which will ensure ideal conditions in the work.

After all the bars are drunk, they are connected to the frame. It is not difficult to do it with simple nails or screws. Next, the entire design is turned over on the legs and installed tightly pressed against the wall. In conclusion, the prepared boards and a simple wooden workbench are ready to work on top of the nails. Often, many car enthusiasts are topped with a tin or steel sheet. This not only increases strength, but also improves safety when the fire occurs during various welding works.

Folded workbench

Usually, in order to save money, the garage buildings make small in volume. In a small building with a limited area, there is rarely enough free space to accommodate the fitting table. In the case when the length and width of the garage does not allow you to install any device, a folding design is used here. The advantage of this method is that in the normal collected state the entire table is cleaned and completely frees the place, but there is a flaw. To work on the campaign, it is often necessary to drive the car from the garage, which is very uncomfortable in the repair of cars.

A folding wooden workbench has the most simple and cheapest design. Therefore, such a building will require minimum of materials and time. First it is necessary to choose the best place in the garage. Then make a tape measure the correct measurements and draw a simple drawing along them either to sketch the scheme. It will not hope to calculate the number and consumption of materials. For this, any wooden bars and old boards are perfect.

First they make a countertop. Cooked bars are placed using a roulette and scamped with a hand saw. Next fold them with a quadril in the form of a box and nails fasten each other. Following the board of the same length, stick to the bars, and the countertop is considered made. Two hinge will immediately be attached to the screws to the screws and fasten to the garage wall at the belt level.

It turns out an interesting table, which in the same position will hang on the wall, and in the other it will rise and install horizontally. To secure the worktop in the working position, you need to make legs. To do this, cut off with a manual saw two of the same bar, which, with screws, are screwed to the free corners of the beds on the hinges. In this position, each feet of the table, like the entire design of the folding workbench, will also be easy to fold.

Metal homemade equipment

For this, materials will be required:

• metal corner;
• trimming iron pipes;
• tin or sheet steel;
• bolts, selflessness, nuts;
• loops or hinges.

Every car enthusiast is trying to make all devices in his garage reliable and secure in work. Although a plumbing table from a tree is going very simple and quickly, but this design is not very durable. Often, the top is installed additional new equipment - it is emery, vice, drilling machine. This requires a rather strong and sustainable base. In this case, for the construction of iron, which is much stronger than wood. Metal design of the workbench will not only perfectly withstand any loads, but also not afraid of fire.

To build a metal plumbing table, you need to prepare all materials. It can be an iron corner or a chamber, trimming pipes and sheet steel. During construction as well it is necessary to find a tool for working with metal:

• welding machine;
• electric Bulgarian;
• ordinary screwdriver;
• powerful hammer;
• spanners.

Metal workbench in the garage is established taking into account the free space. It is necessary to make it so that there is enough free space for car repair. On a narrow and too small plumbing table, it is difficult to place additional equipment. Therefore, it is advisable to make it maximum sizes that will allow not only vice and emery, but also other devices. For example: a small boring or lathe.

Assembly process

Start the construction of the workbench always from the top - countertops. From an iron corner or a chapellor with a grinder, small segments of the table screened. Then on the smooth floor they are folded into the rectangle and combine welding. Inside between the parties also set additional struts that will make the frame much stronger. The top of the countertops usually make fuscations or sheet steel pieces. They are smoothly placed on the frame of the future table and through the perimeter drill make through holes under the bolts or a self-tapping screw.

When the tabletop is fully ready, proceed to the construction of the supports. For durable feet, metal pipes are usually used. The grinding is cut at the belt level and are attached by welding to four corners of the platform made. In order for the supports with high loads, they do not diverge into different directions, they are bonded with each other with a cooter or a chaserler. Then the table is turned over and tightly elevated to the most convenient wall of the garage. The workbench is ready, and you can start repair. But on this construction does not end, but continue to equip additional equipment - visets, eats and other devices.

How to cope with vibration and disorder

During the strikes with the hammer and the operation of the machines on the workbench, vibration occurs. At this time, all tools and repair details begin to move and fall from the table. The search has to spend a lot of time, which is particularly annoyed by every car enthusiast. Cool with this disadvantage is very simple: on the edge of the entire perimeter, the table tops are attached to the welding of a small side of a corner or metal ribbon.

In order for the workbench to be always order, it is necessary to equip the place where all the tools and the remaining parts are stored. The best way to remove unnecessary tools is to put the rack. It should be fixed on the wall right above the table. Typically, the rack is made from the metal sheet, the shelves are installed on it. And it is also desirable to make hooks on which tools will hang. It is very convenient when they are before our eyes and do not interfere with working.

Often for storing repair parts of the car and various fasteners make drawers. You can also easily put a large tool that takes a lot of space on the rack. To do this, at the bottom of the table set additional racks and guides of the metal corner. The boxes themselves are made of leaf iron in the form of boxes with one handle. After installing the rack and drawers, it will be possible to cope with the mess, which prevents it easy to work.

Foldable option

It happens when the garage premises does not allow you to make a good workbench. In this case, it is best to choose a folding option that does not need a large space. On a free place will be required only to cook a simple box in the form of a chest, and to attach the wings on the hinges. As needed, they will always be easy to reveal, which will significantly increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe table.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to cut 12 single corners in the size of the free space. Then, with the help of cooking, collect the frame in the form of a cube and put to attach a smooth sheet of tin or sheet steel. It turns out a small table that is perfect for small repair work. To make it longer, it is necessary to make additional metal wings. Their sizes should coincide with one of the parties of the carcass.

Initially, you will need to cut off with a grinder of 4 corners, which will fit the robers of the table. Then folded them in the form of a square and begged with ordinary electric welding. A leaf of iron should be put on the resulting frame, and then smoothly crop the edges. Next, throughout the perimeter drill, drill through holes, insert the bolts there and tighten the nuts. To the wing easily rose and lowered, you need to attach 2 hinge.

With the help of the welding machine, this is done very simple. One edge of hinged loops is connected to the wing, and the other with the main framework. Fix the movable plane in the horizontal position is easy. It is worth only to make two legs from metal pipes and attach them to the free corners of the wing on the hinges.

It often happens that the increased area of \u200b\u200bthe table is not enough. In this case, it will not be easy to make another duplicate and attach it to the opposite side of the frame. In this case, it turns out a long desktop. If you attach an extra wing on the side, then such a design fit perfectly in the corner of the garage. The advantage of the folding metal workbench lies in the fact that its configuration can always be changed at the request of each motorist.

The joiner's workbench is called a special design table with a solid and durable surface that allows you to mount various devices and mechanisms. In addition, the surface of this table must be adapted to the rigid fixation of additional stationary equipment on it (circular saw, for example, or a small freesome) used to process such common materials like wood or metal.

Before making a joiner's workshop with their own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as with some options for execution using particularly popular.

Requirements for construction

The working characteristics of the table workbench are:

• Its height, fitted under the user's growth, allows you to work in a comfortable environment without stitching, while maintaining a fairly convenient position. For middle-growth people, this value can vary in the range from 70 to 90 cm.
• Dimensions of countertops selected from reasons the possibility of placing the entire necessary tool on it, as well as taking into account the size of the processed billets.
• A set of fixtures mounted on the workbench, determined by the need for performing certain operations and providing for several stops and clamps (screw vibrations).
• The fitness "under the arm" of his host, which may be left-handed.

The most suitable for self-making is the variant of the prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a tabletop installed on it. The length of such a design usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80-100 cm).

Before you start work, you should decide whether your workbench will be a stationary device, or it should be folding (foldable).

Selection of material

The most suitable for the construction of a stationary workbench is the wood, from which the carrier base with ram supports is manufactured, and the table top itself. For making frames, a standard planed timber is best suited to a cross section of 100 × 70 mm. As auxiliary jumpers increasing the rigidity of the frame base, the same bar can be used, but several smaller cross-section (100 × 50 mm, for example).

The tabletop of the workbench can be typed from well-orange and tightly fitted boards, a thickness of at least 5 cm. In addition, it can be used for its manufacture and finished solid canvas (old solid door, for example) or cut-out workpiece from laminated chipboard with reliable and durable coating.

When the material is selected, preference should be given to solid wood, such, for example, as beech, oak or maple.

Build construction

The manufacturer of the workbench begins with the assembly of the frame base, which is subsequently installed the tabletop of the species you choose. The order of operations performed at the same time as follows:

1. First of all, the support sidewalls are collected, equipped in the form of two frame structures from a bar with a cross section of 100 × 70 mm.
2. Then these frames are connected in the upper part with two longitudinal bars, which, together with the upper jumpers, serve as supports for the table top. (We note that for reliable bonding of individual elements among themselves in the design described by us it is best to use the classic connection "spike in the groove" with the mandatory sizing sections of the docking).
3. The lower parts of the support frames are sealed with longitudinal jumpers from a bar 100 × 50 mm, which are mounted at the level of 15-20 cm from the floor. (For their attachment, it is best to use a bolted bolt bolt recessed from the body).
4. In the process of making frame structures in the workpieces, the grooves and spikes are first prepared, after which the entire design is assembled in one reception (after applying glue to the plots of connections).

In the process of assembly, special attention must be paid to the next working moment, which determines the quality of the entire subsequent installation. In preparing the base of the workbench at each stage of the works, it is necessary to monitor the compliance of the size of individual elements with project data, as well as monitor the horizontal installation using the construction level.

In the case of the manufacture of tabletops from planed boards, the latter must be tightly adjacent one to the other, so that the gaps are not formed in which garbage usually accumulates. Its sizes should be a little more (by 1.5-2 cm) dimensions of the support base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of accommodating the auxiliary equipment on the table.

When assembling countertops, the board are nailed or screwed by self-taverns to transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very basis, special grooves must be prepared under these bars. The surface of the finished countertop is first thoroughly grinding, and then processed by a protective solution (oliev is usually used for these purposes). To secure it, special metal corners can be additionally used.

Regarding the installation on the workbench of work devices and mechanisms (vice, stops, etc.), we can say the following:

1. Working vascular is the most convenient to place at the end of the table, while pre-prepared a small deepening under fastener at the installation site. On the reverse side of the table in the fastening zone, it is necessary to provide a laying of plywood that protects the surface from damage.
2. In addition, special stops must be located on the surface of the countertops, fixing the workpiece in the working area and facilitating work with it. On a wooden tabletop, it is more convenient to mount rectangular stops (slices), adjusted in height under the processed workpiece and securely fixing it.
3. Sometimes the stops are made by simple build-ups with the use of suitable thickness bars, fixed in its edge and closed on the reverse side by the limiting plate.

In the case when there is not enough space in the garage or workshop - you can make a folding worktage consisting of a tabletop and a special folding frame that is folded to the wall.

Such a design is very easy to understand and in the folded state occupies a very little space. When it is made, it should be paid to the fact that the width of the support racks of the folding workbar does not exceed half the length of the table top (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).

It is also necessary to worry about the top crossing on the supports located below the board with the hinge fastening of the folding countertops. Material for the manufacture of the table of the folding workbench can be any monolithic blank from the chipboard.

The reference framework frames are made of 100 × 40 millimeters bars, the articulation of which is made using pre-prepared metal linings fixed on racks and jumpers with appropriate bolts.

Video

This video shows the construction of a joiner's workbench:

Photo

Each wizard for working with a tree or for finishing manipulations is necessary for a convenient workplace. In order for all the work to be made as efficiently as possible, you can quickly quickly with your own hands on your needs to build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench.

Device and appointment of joinery workbench

The workbench is a steady, massive desktop designed to process various products using a manual or mechanized tool. The more the dimensions of this table are, the harder and the dimensionality of the part can be processed on it.

Typical layout layout:

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is necessary to study all possible designs of the tables, their drawings, and only then determine with the choice.

Simple landline workbench It is easy to make, but it will be "tied" to a specific place. It can be used for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.

Mobile desk It has small sizes (approximately 80x70 cm), the weight is about 30 kg and some vice. It is intended for working with small products and for small repair.

Composite workbench Connected with bolts, so easily disassembled. However, it is difficult to make it enough.

We compile a project of workbench

The working joinery table should be made such sizes so that it is convenient to work.

Height The table directly depends on the growth of the owner, which should be conveniently standing on to perform any operations. For medium human growth, the workbench can be from 70-90 cm high.

Length and width The workbench depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room in which it will be installed. Very comfortable table with a width of 80-100 cm, and a length of at least two meters.

Required mounting and table configuration Must depend on what kind of hand the master will work, and what operations on the workbench will be performed.

Install Vistak Best of all at the window, but additional lighting will need anyway. In addition, a socket must be provided near the workplace.

Design of collapsible table It can be reduced by a small thickness of the material. In such a workbench, you can make folding legs or a rejected countertop.

Wheel is your own hands. Blueprints. Video instruction

Stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard of their own home or cottage.

Production of base

First of all, you should make the frame of their bars and make it up in such a way that the base will be as tough as possible.

Most often first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and then the whole design is going. At the same time, all connectivity places are sampled and fixed by clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.

In order for the stationary design to be even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be fixed to the wall. Increase the stability of the joinery of the workbench can be wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are mounted with self-assembly between the upper part of the frame and legs and are made of the same material as the base of the table.

We make a tabletop with various devices

Cover size workbench There must be several centimeters more than the base of the design, then it will be convenient for it.

1. Boards using metal corners are attached to three brusches, which are located on the reverse side of the table top. Pre-for these bars should be made grooves.
2. The boards are then carefully adjusted to each other, polished and coated with a protective solution. Use recommended olive or oil.

In the end of the countertops, deepening under vice. In this case, the vertical plate must form one plane with it. In addition, it will take a gasket from plywood, which will be necessary to place the bottom of the workbench.

The vice is applied to the location of their location, and there is a place under the opening. In a ready-made deepening, vice are inserted and mounted with bolts and nuts to the table top so that their lips are located at one level with the surface of the table cover.

Also on the joiner's workbench you need to build ups that can be purchased or made with your own hands. Round brands or bolts are not recommended as the stops, since it was made of poorly fixing the parts, and the bolt head can damage the product being processed.

Enough just can be done rings or rectangular stops. With their help, it will be possible to securely fix the details of any sizes. They are made of solid wood stops. You can make them just rectangular, expand up or cut the jigsaw and make the "spring".

Under the slices in the countertop you can do holes or build it with bars of the desired thickness, fasten them to the edge of the table and close the bar on the other side. To fix it was possible to be any part, the nests from each other should be located at a distance of half from the prick.

Stationary workbench is ready, now it can be operated on it. However, if there is not enough place to install the desktop, you can make a collapsible carpentry workbench.

Wrong workbench with her own hands - arrangement

The procedure for manufacturing this table is similar to the above. Its main difference is that it takes to connect the details applying bolted connections.

The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation it can be easily replace any details. For example, each table over time is loosened, and much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with the help of new screws and nails.

Of course, a completely difficult task is to build a workbench. But, having worked well, as a result, it is possible to get a great and convenient workplace with various devices, followed by the work to bring joy.

The garage is a multifunction room. It can be installed and repairing cars, design and produce different things and mechanisms.

If a person loves to spend time in the garage, engaged in repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. The workbench is a multifunction desktop, on which you can process various materials, carry out a plumbing, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think through the shelves and hubled to store tools and other items.

Types of workshops

The workbenches are manufactured for metal processing (plumbing) and wood (carpentry). Disassembled design with tabletop material. Fixer models, the tabletop must necessarily be metallic, since work with the metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave traces on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, an effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so the best way to equip the workbench with a metal countertop is optimal.

Joiner's workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not so durable and functional as plumbing models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made with your own hands, then first of all it is necessary to thoroughly think over every detail, estimate where the tools will be placed, which work will be carried out on the workbench. From this, the model of the table in the garage depends.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for a suspended tool that will always be at hand. But the most important thing is the workbench should be sustainable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and grinding disk.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding works.

2. Screwdriver.

   Electrolovka for cutting plywood.

Materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm per 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm per 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip width of 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 8 m.

Steel sheet for table top 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making holders for drawers. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for table top. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for making boxes and for side and rear wall walls. Thickness 15 mm

Guides for table boxes.

Screws for assembling boxes from plywood.

Self-tapping screws.

Anchor bolts.

Paint on wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made of these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm. The overall design and a large tabletop allow you to be placed in different ends of the table of vice and, for example, emery or other tool.

The first step of making a workbench is a cutting material on elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of a frame. Steel corner is designed to create rigidity ribs. It is cut into parts and a force frame is formed from it. Also, the steel corner is needed for edging the countertops to which the boards will be laid.

The steel band is intended for the manufacture of the guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.

Table boxes are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The first table top elements are welded - 2 pipes with a length of 2200 mm and 2 pipes of 750 mm. The frame must be welded so that it was possible to spend another frame from the corners to be used to it, which will be stacked by the countertops. For the reinforcement, the countertops are required after 40 cm. Navigate a few more steel pipes that will perform the rigid rib function.

Then the sidelines along the edges of the workbench are welded. Their length is 900 mm. Between the legs, power jumpers strengthening the design are welded.

After the base frame is ready, you can proceed to the welding of the design for the boxes. For this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which from two sides are welded to the tabletop. Frames are enhanced by longitudinal rigids.

Third step - making frame for table top. Two steel corners, a length of 2200 mm and two more corners with a length of 750 mm, are needed for the manufacture of a frame. The design is welded so that the board of wood lay inside it.

The frame from the corner is stacked on the frame of the pipes and welded. A reinforced tabletop is obtained, 8 cm height with internal rigidity ribs.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to cook the panel shawl for fastening the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners having a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the design and two in the middle, for amplification. The toolbar is welded to the tabletop.

Frame from corners and pipes is ready. It can be proceeded to strengthen the design. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from the steel strip. Total need 24 details. The hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. With these holes, the side and rear walls of the table from plywood will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of table boxes. Plywood is cut into billets that twist screws. The number of boxes depends on what will be stored in the table. If small parts, then you can build 3 drawers if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can arrange drawers on the two sides of the table, you can mount the retractable structures on one half of the half, and on the second - the usual open shelves.

After the hubled is collected, you need to fight between the sidewalls of departments for drawers metal strips with holes. Slasons for guide boxes will be attached to these holes from the inside.

Fifth stage - laying boards in the framework of the tabletop. 50 mm thick boards are manifested on a blank defined length. If there is a long board in stock, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards in the presence, you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm width is manifested on 10 blanks of 740 mm long.

Before putting wood into the frame frame, it needs to be treated with antiseptic solution. It will save the material from rotting and damage to beetles.

Then requires painting the entire metal design of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use the weather-resistant and anticarrosion coating option. Especially carefully you need to paint welding seams. Metal and irregularity drops are recommended before painting work thoroughly. This can be done using an angular grinder with a disk for metal grinding.

After the design is driving, you can start laying boards on the worktop. They should not be too tightly drove into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree when changing the temperature and humidity has the properties to expand and dying. It is better to leave a small gap between the boards a few millimeters. The surface of the wood is required to stall, it will simplify the laying of the metal sheet over the tree. Boards all over the perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame on the self-tapping screw.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the tabletop, but inside the design there is a tree, which in the welding process can ignite. Therefore, it is best to attach a steel sheet to hidden screws to wooden boards. Pre-metal is required to paint on both sides by the rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paintwork, easily restores me and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint a metal table top of that paint that the frame was covered. It will be beautiful, but with time the paint can scatter and the table will not look too new.

Last stage - installation of boxes on guides and fastening plywood on the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table.This work can be called the finish finish of the workbench. After working with plywood is over, it must be covered with a composition that protects material from environmental impact. Also do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the desired things will be suspended.

In order for the workbench to work conveniently, you can attach a special lamp with a rack with a power shield. In this case, you can send the light stream at the request of the right place.

Video - Workbench manufacturing process

Installation of vice on a plumbing workbench

Thish is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith. Attach the clamping tool, weighing a few dozen kilograms to the table top it is not recommended. It is best between the metal metal and tool to place a metal gasket, 1 cm thick. In the gasket, you need to drill holes for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill the same in the tabletop the same in the size of the holes. The entire design of the anchor bolts is fastened.

Safety requirements for homemade workbench design

1. If the garage area is not too big, then you can make a table with your own hands for a smaller work. But, it is worthwing to know that the whole design should be stable, not swing and not to move from place with a slight effort.
2. The workplace must be organized so that a person does not prevent anything. When working with vice, all unnecessary tools must be removed from the table top.
3. Corners and protruding table details should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
4. After repair work, it is necessary to remove the workplace from metal chips, droplets of oil and other materials.
5. If the homemade workbench is made correctly, it can easily withstand the load of 200 kg.

Plywood for shield

Video - workbench in the garage do it yourself

1. glue from several layers front timber BUT and Ostroit to final sizes (Fig. 1and 1a).Then throw in it the grooves of 19 width 19 and a depth of 41 mm (Fig. 1a, photo Aand IN).

Short advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling device- template, and you can only cover them with screws. The template will be required to sample the grooves in the rear vice block, which is wider than the front axle cover.

From a pair of trimming of a thick board and a thickness of 12 mm thick, assemble a simple device-template for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves that will be holes for the vertical stops.

Milling grooves in the front timber with a 12 mm spiral cutter and a 19-millimeter copier sleeve, remove the material in a little, gradually increasing the depth.

2. Drink the lining IN And glue it to the front bruster, aligning the right ends of the details. Carefully remove the extruded excess glue.

3. According to the template, which is usually supplied complete with front visits, mark and drill holes for the rod (Photo C, Fig. 1).

Position the mounting pattern so that the holes for the vice are not intersected with the holes for the vertical stops in the anterior bar A / B. Note the civam centers.

Note. In this project, the front and rear vice are used.LEE Valley.. They are characterized by good quality manufacturing, smooth operation and shipped with detailed installation instructions.

4. Now make covers FROM, bottom linings for the front D. and rear E. Thish, spacer F. and rear bar G.. Enclose overlays, rear bar, spacer and front timing to lid (Fig. 1).

5. Make left and right tips N, I (Fig. 2).Form along one verge of tips 36 widths and a depth of 57 mm and drill 12 mm holes.

Short advice! To quickly make clean and neat tongues, remove most of the material with a groove disk, and then clean the walls and bottom with a milling table.

6. Overweight on the ends of the cover A-G. On both sides, the folder 57 width and a depth of 36 mm (PhotoD.), to form ridges that are inserted into tips N, I.

Use the tip as a guide for folding folding on the lid. Be careful not to touch the milling front.

7. Put on the crest left tip N., moved it to the front pad IN. Right tip I. Align with the front edge of the shield FROM. Follow the centers of 12 mm holes (Photo E).Remove the tips and with the help of sewing other centers, shifting them by 1.5 mm closer to the ridges (PhotoF.). Spend parallel lines, retreating 6 mm in both sides of each tag left by the selection so that the distance between the lines was equal to 12 mm.

Use the tip of the 12 mm drill to transfer the holes of the holes in the tips H, I on the ridges of the lid.

Slide the centers of the holes by 1.5 mm closer to the ridge shoulders, so that, drive the waders, tightly pull the tip with the lid.

Thin round rashpil treat all holes other than the first. Do not go for parallel lines so that the details are shied tight.

8. Drill on the markup of 12-mm holes. Then, starting from the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it by 2 mm in both directions, without leaving parallel lines so that it turned out to be a 16 mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each of the following 1.5 mm in both directions (PhotoG., Fig. 2).This will allow the lid to change your width during seasonal moisture fluctuations. In the right tip I. Make cutout 57 × 165 mm Throwing rack F. and the end of the bottom lining E..

9. Put the tips N, I. On the ridges and secure 12-millimeter solid wood wets, drive them into the holes without the use of glue. Screw the protruding ends of the Vedo dust with the upper and lower edges of the tips.

Short advice! To facilitate the mounting of the tips, take the woofer sewage and make a narrowing at their ends.

Add vice

1. Collect the frame from trimming, which will limit the milling zone of the milling displacement when sowing the recess in the bottom lining D. For front vice (Photo H).Follow the recess so that it is located at a distance of 70 mm from the front edge of the lid, and its middle coincided with the center of the large hole for the screw of the vice.

Use a 12-mm mill with an upward spiral to select a yield of 57x305x406 mm for the tisted mechanism. Move the cutter that supports the mill.

Separate the rear plate to insert the tisk mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.

2. Drink a block J. For the mobile sponge of the front vice. Drill in the hole block by placing them on the template that was used earlier, placing it so that the left end of the block was aligned with the left edge of the lid.

3. Splind along the ends of the moving sponge J. Roundings with a ledge and attach the front vice to the lid, following the instructions instructions (Photo I).Set the footage knob to place.

4. Drink at the specified size block TO For rear vice. Alterate the milling device used earlier and form in the block of the groove width 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3and 3a).

5. Drink the lining L. For rear vice. Drill in the block TO 10 mm end-to-end holes with 25-millimeter cekeets (Fig. 3and Per).By pressing the lining of the clamps to the block, check the centers of the holes with a 10-mm drill through the block holes. Then drill in marked openings with a diameter of 16 mm. Note. Our method is slightly different from the instructions described in the instruction and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the tisch package. Acting so, we hid the heads of the bolts under the plug plugs, and did not leave them in sight.

6. Stick the lining L. To block K (photoJ.) and carefully remove all the squeezed glue from the holes for the vertical stops.

Similarly, align the holes of the block to with the holes of the lining L. In order not to spend a lot of time to remove excess glue, apply it evenly with a thin layer.

7. Attach the collected block K / L. Together with the mechanism of the rear vice in place, following the instructions instructions. Close the heads of the bolts cork plugs and set the footage knob.

Make the vertical stops

1. Drink on the dimensions of the dimensions specified in the "list of materials" M. and 17 springs N.. For the stops, we chose the Wood Cherry, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the details, and its color contrasts well with white oak wood from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, a dense and elastic wood is suitable, for example maple.

2. To predict the desired form, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops are inserted into the holes, and pon them, if required. They should be removed and bleed without much effort and at the same time stay at the right height. To learn more about them, read the article "Vistak Stop", published in this issue of the magazine.

Go to the ground

Note. Before proceeding with the manufacture, measure and write down the size of the recess on the bottom of the lid. The base of the cabinet should be tightly inserted into this deepening. If it fails to insert, it will be necessary to adjust its size to the deepening or expand the edges of the recess for the final assembly.

1. According to the "list of materials", cut the shelves ABOUTPartitions R and edge lining Q, R.. Stick overlays to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4).Then glue the shelves O / Q. To partitions P / R. And further consolidate with screws.

2. Drinking baseboards S. and Tsargi T., Stick them to the assembly of shelves with O-R partitions.

3. Of the 19-millimeter plywood, veneered veneer cherry, drink the side and rear walls U, V.. First, glue the side walls into place, securing additionally with screws, then add the rear wall using only glue for its attachment.

4. Note. Check the size of the assembled body before drinking the crossbar, racks and lining and make sure that their length specified in the "Material List" corresponds to your project. We advise you to cut the detailsW.— GG. with a little battery in length, and then adjust them at the place.

Drink up the top and bottom crossbars W, X.as well as racks Y. (Fig. 5).Adjust the top and bottom crossbars to the base, then add the racks.

5. Now drink the rear crossbars Z, AA, Stands BB, Mingwithonia SS and side crossbars DD, It. Stick the bottom rear crossbar AA and furniture to the rear wall V. (photo K).After that, glue the back upper crossbar and racks to the place, then the side lower crossbars with the middle arms to the side walls and, finally, the upper side crossbars and racks.

Use a couple of thick bars with a flat face to make it tightly pressing the CC to the rear wall.

6. At the corners of the body, the 10 mm chassis, ending with the stacks with racks (Fig. 6).

Before connecting the baseboards, you need to cut off the squeaks on the rails glued on top. After that, you can proceed to milling roundings.

7. From 19-mm cherry boards, drink side, front and rear baseboards FF, GG. Specified length with a switch of about 3 mm wide. Then sill from the top edge of each baseline Rake a cross section of 19 × 19 mm and mark the items to install them in the future. Finally, make the connections "Lastochka Tail" to bind the baseboards (Fig. 6a).Note. If, instead of Shipov "Lastochka Tail", you decided to make simple connections of Pa Us, drink the baseboards of the specified width (without switch) and do not discharge from them on top of the rail.

8. Will sciats on the Us only on the rails for lateral baseboards, not shortening them. Stick each of them to the corresponding part, from which it was spill. Then glue the rails without bevels to the front and rear baseboards. Make the SCOS only on the top of the front and rear baseboards so that they are tightly connected with side baseboards. The mount of the bevel should be near the line of markup, and the exact interface of parts can be done fit, removing the material in little (PhotoL.). Then disconnect a 19-mm rounding with a 3-millimeter ledge along the top edge of all baseboards.

9. Enclose baseboards to the base. It is possible that they will have to use screws or nails for their attachment, if instead of the compounds "Lastochka Tail" you made at their ends of the squeezes.

Add doors

1. Drink the crossbars NN., Stands II. And Filey JJ. specified sizes (Fig. 7).

2. Make a spuns of 6 width and a depth of 12 mm in the center of the inner edges of all racks and the crossbar. Then create spikes of 6 thickness and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbar.

3. Collect the doors, gluing together racks, crossbars and panels. When the glue dries, check how the doors are inserted into the opening of the base, and ponse them if required. Then throw out the folder 5 × 5 mm on the upper and lower edges of the door on the inside, as well as the folder 10 × 5 mm on the racks where there is no loops. These folds leave enough space between the doors and the body to install magnetic latches.

Attach the doors to the housing with overhead loops and set the magnetic latches.

Lower the cover on the base

1. Invite the three buddies of a strong physique, so that with their help raise a heavy melted cover and put on the base. It is not necessary to fix it - due to the massiveness and an accurate fit, it is well held in place.

2. By installing a new workshop in the workshop, immediately proceed to the next project, and now you can get even more pleasure from the time spent in the workshop!