The art of the construction of a wooden house can be mastered on their own. The material is chosen, as a rule, a bar: glued or profiled. It is distinguished by the manufacturer, but the construction technology is almost the same for each of them. The tree saves on the hiring of workers, as 3 people will be able to build a house from a bar. Hard technique for this will not need, you should only prepare a concrete mixer, a pump for serving concrete, winch, chainsaw and a small tool.

What will be the house?

The bar is used in low-rise private construction to build houses not higher than 3 floors. Operating properties of material, a favorable internal microclimate, beautiful design contributes to the choice of this particular material for the construction of the house. The bar differs from the log of a rectangular shape, and this is its advantage, as it allows you to immediately get a flat surface. Its benefits are obvious: it is easy to make an inner and outdoor cladding, you can hang any details of the interior on the walls. Also, the use of timber eliminates cold bridges due to the exact fit of the wooden elements.

The tree allows you to create an exclusive design project of any structure: a small cottage, a one-story house, a luxurious cottage. It can provide for balconies with beautiful railings, cozy terraces, verandas. The multicate roof is more than other types of roofing decorate structure, especially if it has a large total area. The project should be ordered in a professional organization. This will be a guarantee of taking into account the properties of the soil, the correct calculation of the material, compliance with the construction technology.

It all starts with the foundation

The house from the bar has sufficient weight, therefore requires a solid, reliable base. If at home is planned to do a basement or cellar, choose a ribbon foundation. If the soil is wet, or, loose - the right solution will be the use of screw piles. A small house can be erected on a slang solid foundation. In this case, the concrete base serves simultaneously with the black floor of the first floor.

Sailo-screaming foundation is arranged just like a ribbon, but with installation in trenches of concrete piles. It is used on loose soils with a high level of freezing. The ribbon foundation is most popular: it can withstand heavy loads, it can be erected without the use of technology, the technology of work is easy to execute. This type of foundation is suitable for all private houses, so its device is considered further.

First make marking exactly around the perimeter of the future at home. Denote the location of carrier inland walls. On the markup of the trenches, the width of which is larger than the width of the walls by 10 cm. For the basement, it is necessary to cut the cutting of the corresponding sizes, for the celler - pit. The trench depth must be greater than the level of soil freezing, but not less than 60 cm. On the bottom of the trenches, a sand pillow from sand (10 cm) and gravel (10 cm) are pillowed, spread the layers. Sand should be moisturized and tamped to ensure its sufficient density. The pillow is poured with a thin layer of concrete (5 cm).

Formwork, reinforcement, concreting

For the removable formwork take a 25 mm board and knock down in the form of shields. They must rise above the trench level at least 40 cm (the outdoor height of the foundation of the house, which is indicated in the project). The displacement of the formwork prevent the device with a device between the inner walls and the supporting boards from the outside.

Reinforcement is carried out by rods 10 mm in 2 layers. The frame is laid first along, then across; The intersection places are fixed with knitting wire. It is important that the rods do not touch formwork. The clearance must be 5 cm. Concrete solution can be made in two ways:

• cement ratio M400 and Sand 1: 3;
• the ratio of cement M400, sand and special additives 1: 4: 4.

Concrete at the construction site can be kneaded in concrete mixer, pour in trenches using a special pump for concrete. It is important to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the foundation before it is frozen, so it is necessary to use a cement vibrator. An unpleasant surface is wetted by water to prevent too fast hardening the foundation. At this stage, the construction of its own arms of the bar is suspended at 20-30 days. This time is required by the foundation for full pouring and the ability to apply the main load on itself.

From the method of assembling houses from the bar depends on the consumption of materials and the cost of the building. You can reduce them if you choose a framework of construction, but this article discusses the classic laying of the house from the bar. Wood breeds that are most suitable for independent construction, convenient in processing and at the same time inexpensive: larch, pine, spruce.

The first crown is placed on a double layer of rolled insulation, wallowed on the foundation. It is put alternately with bitumen, heated to a liquid state. Thus, the following layers are obtained:

• bitumen,
• ruberoid
• bitumen,
• ruberoid.

The insulation width exceeds the width of the foundation by 30 cm. Next, work with the timber begins. It is important that each detail is previously processed by an antiseptic. He will protect the tree from rotting, damage insect pests. Also use anti-view formulations that protect the tree from burning. The impregnation separately each log is more efficient than the whole building, since in the second case, raw areas will remain in the places of docking the bars.

The very first board, lining, is rigidly attached to the foundation through a layer of waterproofing. It is fixed with a tump that protects the log house from precipitation with a water with a tap. There are 2 ways to lay the first crown:

• on the lining board,
• on transverse rails.

The second option provides an additional gap, and it means ventilation. Rake 10 mm thick attach across the foundation to the lining board with a step of 30 cm. The length of the ridge is equal to the width of the board. It is important to constantly check the horizontal of laying elements. Use better laser level, can be oil-drip. From competent, the quality of the entire structure depends on the quality of the entire structure. For it, the ram 150x150 mm is used.

Features of the connection of Bruusyev

The profiled and glued bar have a 4-hi-treated profile, and the size of the section 140x140 mm and 90x140 mm is used to build houses. The front side can be convex or flat (near the profiled bar; glued it is always flat). On the top and bottom side of the bar in the factory setting, a spike-groove is made. It allows you to maximize it tightly and rigidly connect the elements among themselves. Laying each new row is carried out on a layer of jute interventory insulation. Between themselves, the crowns are connected by the vertical clogging of the heater with a step of 1 m, to a depth of 30 cm.

Read more about insulation

Jute insulation makes it possible to eliminate the formation of cold bridges in winter. This prevents the condensation of the facade, the growth of mold in the structure of the tree, and significantly increases the service life of the structure. The interventic insulation is better to buy in the form of a ribbon of a suitable width. Fix it with a construction stapler.

It should be noted that the use of packle or flax does not prevent the emergence of microscopic gaps in the SRUB, as it is impossible to ensure the uniformity of the layer. These disadvantages are deprived of a tape insulation, it has the same thickness and high-quality nonwoven fabric, connected by a needle-muctic way.

How to lengthen the timber?

The length of the walls of the house often exceeds the length of the bar, and, in this case, it is necessary to conduct a competent connection of the joints. The assembly is carried out into the dressing, that is, the vertical seam of each of the next row shifts relative to the previous one. For durable joints, the joints make it washed in Poledev along the bar. After the connection, the rigidity is provided by climbing brazing. Connection reliability can be increased if the joint is on the partition.

Window and doorways arrange a shorter timber laying. In these places, only one-piece material is used. In the crowns near the openings are clogged by 2 braided. The second way implies drinking openings in the finished fire. In this case, brazening should be located outside the opening, but close to its edge. Drinking starts with marking with a plumb and level. Work is performed by chainsaw.

Roofing houses from a bar

A beautiful roof consists of several slopes, and the presence of attic with several windows makes it original. In the absence of skills, you can independently arrange a double roof - this is a practical, efficient, aesthetic type of roof. For Mauerlalat, the timber is selected 150x150 mm and fasten it to the wint of the wall with the help of brackets, aging, anchor bolts.

The rafters are based on Mauerlat. It should be noted that in this place it is customary to make a triangular rider for a stronger engagement of both items. In wooden houses that give a significant shrinkage, the recess does not make, as the offset can deform the design. The best way to attach rafters and ensure the ability to shift - use steel fastening "Sledge". It consists of 2 elements that allow rafters to change the angle due to the shrinkage of the house.

The rafter system consists of a solid timber and is a framework. It sets the shape of the roof consists of duplicate elements. The angle of inclination, step, length, the thickness of the rafter is indicated in the project. Typically, take a ram with a width of 150-180 mm, from 50 mm thick. Between themselves, the elements of the system are connected by the fastening of spike-grooves and steel linings. Raising rafters at a given angle is carried out with the help of special elements - rafter feet, which are the higher, the more close the bars.

The installed rafter system is covered with a vapor barrier layer, a counterclaim and the crate is mounted. The first is collected from 2 cm thick, stuffing them on the insulating material along the rafter. The crate is navigated by a rafter with nails, the pitch of the BRUSEV depends on the choice of roofing material. If the tile is stacked, a solid doome is required, for a professional flooring and slate it is nailed with a step of 30 cm.

If an attic device is assumed, the roof is insulated from the inside with mineral wool plates laid between the rafters. The cladding material is chosen by the lining or plasterboard. Wooden house gives shrinkage for 1-2 years. During this period, it can be live in it, but the walls can not be ferfed with facing materials.

Increasingly, the owners of land plots emphasize their choice on the construction of houses from the bar. The main advantage of this solution is the fact that you can build a house from a bar with your own hands. Such a building has exceptional reliability, durability and environmentalities. Directly the technology of building buildings from the bar is extremely simple and understandable. Even with basic skills in construction issues, all work can be made independently, without the need to appeal to construction companies.

What wood can be used to build a house from a bar with your own hands? Photo

Before starting the construction, it is not necessary to choose the most suitable and high-quality material for work. The source qualities of wood are density and durability. In some breeds, these indicators reach the level of most of the metals, so sufficiently high demands are presented to buildings from the bar. Walls of the house must be durable and durable. In addition, they are obliged to provide good noise and thermal insulation.

However, the tree has a number of shortcomings, the main of which is a low level of fire resistance and a tendency to sedimentary deformations, which is often often manifested during the first 2-4 years after the construction process is completed.

Conifer breeds are the most optimal choice for building a building from a bar. This material is distinguished by durability and resistance to rotting processes, it is not cracking and does not have a significant burden on the foundation. For self-erection of the house, it is extremely important to remember that not only the competent technology of construction, but also selected by all the rules the material will give the opportunity to build a good wooden house. Therefore, wood should be dense and wear-resistant.

Profiled or solid bar?

The bar can be profiled or solid. To build, you can use both the first and the second option. To select a specific type of material, you should consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Build a house from a profile bar with your own hands. Video

The profiled bar provides for the presence of a profile. It has vents and spikes. Such compounds are mounted along the entire length of the material, and then the surface is grinding. The bar for the construction of the house is supplied already in the finished form. The owner must only build the construction of them. Among all the advantages of houses from the profiled bar are especially allocated as follows:

1. Relatively low construction work costs.
2. High resistance to deformations.
3. Low difficulty of work.

Building material has an accurate form that allows you to carry out all the required activities to the maximum deadlines. Houses from a similar material possess more attractive appearance and high thermal insulation characteristics.

The advantages of the profiled timber belongs to the almost perfectly smooth surface of the walls. They do not need to additionally sway with any facing material, as they look so superior. The walls from the timber are protected from rotting, since they will not be collected rain and thawed water. The profile is calculated in such a way that the precipitates cannot penetrate into interventic seams.

After the shrinkage of the house occurs, there is no need for spending time and strength to pant. Wood provides excellent windproof and high thermal insulation, since the crowns have compounds of sufficient density.

However, the profiled bar has disadvantages. First, it is not enough to carry many atmospheric influences sufficiently. Secondly, the bar supports burning. Therefore, in order to increase bio and flame retardant properties, wood should be treated with antiseptics and impregnations.

The natural moisture content of the material may lead to the fact that cracks will appear in the warm season on the bar. For this reason, the material must have humidity no higher than 20%. If necessary, you will need chamber drying.

The initial thickness of the walls of the building from the profiled bar will not be enough for optimal use. One way or another, it will have to carry out additional outdoor insulation. However, after the construction is completed, it will be impossible to change the layout or perform the add-on.

Build a house from a whole bar with your own hands. Video

Despite the fact that a solid timber has a not the most presentable species, the material is still widely used in construction. The main advantage is a relatively low price. When preparing wood, its standard humidity is maintained, which makes it possible to get rid of the need for additional procedures and reduces the term of the preparatory phase.

A suitable solid bar can be purchased on any specialized market. Another major advantage of using this material for the construction of the house with their own hands is the absence of the need to apply special equipment or special tools.

However, there are also their drawbacks, to the number of which include:

1. When choosing a bar, you need to be extremely attentive, since unscrupulous sellers provide poor quality ras.
2. Higher expenses for finishing work. To obtain a completed and beautiful appearance of the construction, it needs to be lifted with clapboard or siding.
3. A fungus can begin to form a timber. The reason lies in natural humidity, as the material does not pass special drying technology. Naturally, a bar can be treated with an antiseptic and special impregnation to prevent the formation of fungus, however, it will be necessary to spend extra money and time.
4. After shrinkage, the material cracks. To prevent the formation of such damage, wooden walls need to be sewed on both sides.
5. Interventical seams are greatly blown away. The building from a solid bar is characterized by a significantly smaller level of heat insulation.

Preparation of instruments, materials and project for the construction of a house from a bar with their own hands. Photo

After selecting a suitable type of timber, you can move to the purchase of materials, the collection of necessary tools and the preparation of the project plan. If you wish, you can purchase materials in the finished form. In this case, all bars are trimmed under the required dimensions of the tools. There will already be grooves in the material, and will remain just lay out the building.

If desired, you can save on the material if you prepare it yourself. To do this, pay attention to the following factors:

1. Large and end-to-end cracks are categorically unacceptable.
2. Wood must be absolutely "healthy".
3. The material should not have traces of insect damage.
4. Before use, the timing is necessarily processed by special antiseptic compositions.

Work on the construction of the house from the bar will require the use of a certain set of tools, including:

• gasoline or electric saw;
• yardstick;
• a hammer;
• electric drill;
• level;
• ax;
• electric screwdriver;
• nails, self-tapping screws, jute;
• perforator.

After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, you can proceed with the preparation of the project of the future house from the bar. To do this, you will need to accurately calculate all the required calculations and parameters. The project can be compiled independently, since nothing is difficult in it. Or contact the specialized construction organization.

Building a house from a bar with their own hands: foundation, photo, video

After preparing independently or having received the project, you can begin the arrangement of the foundation. The house made from the bar must be built on a reliable durable base.

When choosing a type of foundation, such parameters should be taken into account as:

1. The main characteristics of the soil on the plot.
2. Design features.

Wooden house can be built on a wooden or concrete base. Most often, a concrete foundation is used, on which the brick base is laid out, and the walls of the bar are erected on top of this design, and then the roof. If only the wooden structure is supposed, the base is made of wood.

Bruus house can be built on:

• fine-breed base;

• bloomed foundation;

• bought base;

• tape type support.

As a rule, a belt or fine-breed foundation is preparing under the house from the bar. 50-70 cm. Staying depth will be enough.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of the walls of the bar of the bar do it yourself. Video, photo

After the establishment of the foundation, you can move to the laying of walls from the bar. At this stage, the most important thing is to choose the optimal assembly technology. Walls are laid out by rows. The new layer falls on the previous one until the desired wall height is obtained.

Brucov has special grooves that provide tight fit to each other logs. Grooves are insulated with thermal insulation. To increase the strength of the walls, it is necessary to use spikes to connect BRUSEV.

The simplified version involves the use of a unprocessed pine timber. The bars weigh a little, so that the construction disappears the need to call special lifting equipment.

In the process of erection of walls from a bar on its own, it is important to take into account a number of major requirements. First, all seams should be legally, which will exclude the possible appearance of the imagination of the walls by the wind. Secondly, the finished walls are processed by special impregnation, increasing fire resistance and durability.

Device roof and floor. Finish finish in the house from the bar do it yourself, photo

Very often, developers who build wooden paving houses are trying to save and make it in the process of building the roof using cheap materials, for example, Ondulin. But it is incorrect - save on the material when finishing the roof for a wooden building is categorically not recommended.

This house element may have different embodiments: it all depends on roofing and rafting systems. Each plot is better equipped with the use of boards of various sizes. For example, rafters are collected from the board with a cross section of 150x40 mm, and to create divosers and racks - 100x40 mm.

If we are talking about the arrangement of the floor and choosing a coating, you need to navigate for personal preferences. The only mandatory moment is the competent waterproofing of the floor and the ceiling. Special attention should be paid to the issue of waterproofing the basement and basement. Moisture protection is performed before screed or alignment. In a paving house, you can use:

• coating materials;
• rolled waterproofing;
• bay compounds;
• penetrating moisture protection.

Casoccoli and basements are waterproofed with their own hands without any problems. This process is simple. It is necessary to choose the most suitable and favorite material and proceed to its installation in accordance with technology.

For wooden floor, coatings are better suited for wood: laminate and parquet - the most optimal option, since the material is convenient and easy to lay.

Regarding more modern materials, it should not have any problems with their installation.

Finish finish of the house from the bar do it yourself, photo

Finally, work on the installation of interroom doors, window frames and partitions are performed. The draft floor is stacked, after which the selected insulation is installed, the finishing floor and the finish coating. The ceiling is frozen by any selected material. At this stage, you need to equip the water supply, sewage, heating and energy supply systems.

The exterior decoration is chosen by the owner of the house independently. If desired, the building can be left without an external finish, unless, of course, the appearance and quality of the material allow such. If you want to get any other appearance, the house can be painted, sheathe it with clapboard, siding, or separated by other materials.

In such a sequence and the construction of the house from the bar is carried out with their own hands. Following technology, you can get a reliable, comfortable and durable structure, without contacting third-party specialists.

150x150 do it yourself, we will tell in detailed instructions with photos and video materials.

Some secrets are revealed for the successful implementation of the main activities for the construction of the house.

As economical, but, without losing in quality, acquire your own housing for many years.

What to pay attention to and make a job correctly.

It is easy to make himself. Its hands are easier from a wooden bar. The tree refers to traditional materials, quality proven time.

Production of the finished timber of coniferous breeds in our time is represented by a wide number of options. With the availability of the finished project, it is possible to order the material under the template.

Production will be long in time, but compensated when installing.

7 steps to the realization of the dream

After making a decision on the construction of housing, it is necessary to hold a number of preparatory activities.

The best time is considered to be late autumn and winter time. All actions need to spend a lot of time and it is desirable to fit this period by the beginning of the construction season from the middle of the veins to early autumn:

1. Determine with.
2. Order or buy ready.
3. Order and acquire the main material.
4. Perform preparatory work.
5. Prepare consumables.
6. Purchase a tool.
7. Conclude contracts with contractors.

How to build a house from a bar do it yourself

First stage. Preparation of land

• cleaning from garbage and vegetation,
• alignment is performed using special equipment,
• laying formwork under with the help of pegs, cord and level,

Important! It is necessary to use a specialist service. The quality of construction depends on this process.

Second phase. Foundation device according to the developed project

The main types of foundation

• ,
  For houses with a basement or cellar.
• Pile foundation
  For problem soils.
• minor blowout,
  For a small house.

Third stage. The construction of bearing walls and partitions of the house from a wooden bar

Materials

Applied material for self-installation should be dry and easy

Required tool

• Disk electric saw.
• Drill with a set of rolled wood.
• and roulette.
• Ax and hammer.
• Nails and selflessness.

Process of work

The first crown is placed on the foundation around the perimeter. Pre-foundation lays down the runneroid, as waterproofing, and the jute layer.

For information! The crown is called the rows of timber laid vertically. The jute seal is needed to seal the seams between the bar.

Subsequent crowns are mounted on the layout of the project. Between themselves, wooden parts are connected by brazen. Through holes are drilled by a smaller diameter than the thickness of the heel. They clog it with a hammer, the excess protruding part is cut under the base.

The bars are connected to each other, in places of dressings with partitions with a bunch of grooves-crest. In the corners, the compound, for greater strength, is used by three species:

Important! Cut connections are easier for a predetermined pattern. The cuts are made taking into account the passage for the insulation. Adjunction will turn out to be smooth and reliable nodes.

Between the crowns and the connections also fit the jute. On the second crown, the beams are cut for flooring. Under each detail at a distance of 1.5 meters lay out of ceramic brick support. After the installation of the fourth crown, it is produced by black flooring of the floor from the boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

Subsequent rows of timber are stacked identically, but taking into account parts for door openings and windows.

For the convenience of work and safety, the details are applied with a stopper. The device is made of two boards with nailed wedge stops. Powdows rest on the wall with the upper edge, and the bottom hold on the ground of the stopper. With the help of a rope, the timber climbs onto the walls by one person. The indoors are assembled.

Important! Each new row of laid bar is controlled by the level at mandatory.

Finishing two crowns are mounted throughout the perimeter and over all the processes. Completes the grab assembly process, laying ceiling beams. Then Maurylalat is matted for assembling the roof.

Outlines of doors and windows with casing boxes from boards with a thickness of at least 30mm. Fresh their simple nails. Plots play the role of compensators when shrinking new buildings and do not allow to deform the rows of timber.

In front of the roof device, the upper ceiling flooring from the boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, an attic overlap.

Fourth stage. Roofing device

For installation of roofing structures and coatings, you need to use the services of the team of specialists. This is a responsible work, the result of which depends comfort, comfort, the service life of the whole house,

Fifth stage. Installing blocks

After a shrinkage of the house, the installation of window and door blocks of the perimeter remains before finishing. Then insulation and finishing of the outer walls. Insulation of the attic space.

Sixth stage. Finish

The final stage of all building events finishing inland walls, and ceilings. Installation of engineering livelihood systems.

Conclusion

When building the house, you can significantly save at the main stage of building a building. To prevent your own.

The assembly itself is not difficult to execute, just once to see and correctly follow the project.

The result will be positive.

On the benefits of buildings from the wood to tell the reader does not make sense - this is written enough. Only here is not with each product you can build a house from scratch with your own hands. Working with a log, even diagnosed, requires not only practical experience, but also of certain knowledge. The bar in this plan is preferable, that is why it is so popular among individual developers, especially since independent construction will cost much cheaper than turning turnkey.

From the point of view of the author, in many guidelines describing the installation, there are almost all - schemes, recommendations, examples of typical projects. But at the same time it is overlooked that such an important moment as a choice of timber. Its assortment is quite large (if you take into account the difference in the section), and, not knowing some nuances, you can significantly complicate the process of building the construction with your own hands. Therefore, before dealing with the construction technology of the house from the bar, it is necessary to determine the material itself.

Production features affect the characteristics of the finished product and determine the specifics of working with workpieces. Not the price, but all that is listed below should become a criterion when choosing. Ignoring this information will directly affect the final result, and far from the better.

Brief description of varieties

1. Stroging.

It is nothing but a log, cut along length from all sides, profile is a square or a rectangle. Among the analogues, this option is the cheapest, but purchasing it for construction, it is necessary to take into account that a number of difficulties will arise.

In accordance with the requirements of SNiP, it is not allowed to use wood with a humidity indicator of more than 20% (for glued elements - 15%).

• Bar dried away. Not knowing all the subtleties of technology, it is unlikely to be done correctly.
• We will have to wait and start construction after some time (depending on local conditions, this period can be delayed for a long time).
• It will take place on the storage area. Plus additional costs for concerning material, rails and the like.
• Initially, such a bar is not distinguished by strict geometry. His trimming is produced "rough", often on worn equipment. Considering how much after installation, the cracks will appear (and the workpieces in the process of self-drying also will also "lead"), to build a truly warm house from the planed timber is quite problematic.

2. Profiled.

It is distinguished by the fact that from 2 sides there are "samples" - spikes and grooves or "comb" (wave). In the latter case, during construction, do not have to lay insulation.

To match the protrusions and recesses as accurate as possible, it is necessary to use products from one batch for all. Therefore, before purchasing material for the house from the profiled timber, it is necessary not only to make the correct calculation of its demanding quantity, but also to determine the reserve (about 10%).

Such products can be both natural humidity and dried in production. The last option is preferable, as it will allow even without the experience of building a house that meets all criteria of a cozy dwelling, with their own hands. Shrinkage does not exceed 5%, therefore, in some cases, it is not delayed with finishing and arrangement.

3. glued.

Build a house from a bar of this variety yourself simply enough, as the process resembles the assembly of the designer. If it is certified, then the maximum shrinkage is 1%. Consequently, some types of work (commissioning of communications, attachment of hinged equipment) can be carried out in parallel. Such construction provides many advantages, and if you consider them, the high cost will not seem too frightening.

• Firstly, in such a house from the bar you can immediately alter.
• Secondly, the savings of funds on materials (insulation, facing).
• Third, saving money. The construction technology of the house is so simple that paid services of various masters and consultants will not be needed - all work will be released by itself, and according to any scheme (project).

By independently choosing the glued bar or ordering turnkey construction, it is necessary to focus on a number of moments:

• all lamellas should be the same thickness, and their optimal amount is 5;
• they must have a homogeneous shade. There is a bar, in which the upper boards from one wood (for example, cedar), and the "Nutro" from low-grade. Evaluate a really good house will not work.

1. With reference to our climate for the house from a bar, its cross section 150 x 150 (or 100 x 150) is considered optimal.

2. It is desirable to build a material from coniferous rocks, as they are more resistant to moisture.

3. Annual rings on end parts must be uniformly located. Asymmetry is a sign that shrinkage will lead to axial skewers (twisting).

4. The quality of construction largely depends on the proper geometry of the workpieces. Visually when storing products, it is difficult to determine this, and to make sure the products of the products, it is enough for 2 bars from the party nearby - all bends will immediately become visible.

Step-by-step construction instructions

It must be viewed as a recommendation. The fact is that it is possible to build in different ways, as there are differences in projects (even when ordering turnkey), in the laying schemes, bruises and other nuances. This guide will give only practical advice to the master who decided to fulfill everything with his own hands.

1. Foundation.

You can build a house from a bar on any type. The choice of the optimal option is determined by local conditions, the unambiguous instruction for this stage does not make sense. But a number of recommendations are:

• The lower crown should be raised over the soil at least half a meter.
• If the base on the piles (pillars) is satisfied, then it is desirable to equip Routersk, that is, to close the "gap" between the Earth and the construction.
• Even in the process of filling the solution, it is necessary to install fastening elements (pins), to which the laminate of the lower crown "is planted".
• With independent installation of the frame, the mating is made in the literal sense with your own hands, but it is better not to use the welding. The thermal effect destroys the structure of the material, and if the plastic bar is used, this technology is not suitable for definition.
• Regardless of how and what is made by the assembly of reinforcement, in the corners and in the places of sharp bends of the ribbon, the frame elements are connected only by metal fastener (wire, brackets, clamps).

We must not forget that construction from the bar assumes the protection of wood from direct contact with liquids. Therefore, building and need to "raise". And this is not to mention that the prospect of education under the house from the bar of the garbage dump has few people suits. For the base of the belt type, in order to save it, you can lay out the so-called "zero" (0.5 m) of bricks (preferably ceramic).

2. Lower crown.

Perhaps this is the main moment when erecting a house from a bar with your own hands. From how accurately and correctly such work will be done, the final result, and the complexity of independent construction will be depends.

The main requirement is the accuracy of geometry. Even if the contour from the tape is not a rectangle, then some of the symmetry distortion can be eliminated by the most proper laying of the bar (possibly with a displacement relative to the base axis). In addition, all the upper cuts of the blanks must lie in the same plane (horizontal). It is the construction level at this stage - the main assistant master.

Alone, gaining material for the house from the bar, regardless of the project, which is decided to build it, is preferably to choose larch for the lower crown. During operation, it becomes only stronger, even when absorbing liquids.

3. Erect walls.

The work is carried out from the lower crown up - this is understandable. The question is just how to fasten the workpiece. To build a really durable house, regardless of the compound scheme, in the corners, as well as in the places of the walls of the walls for high-quality fixation of the elements, it is necessary to use additional fasteners.

So that the joints were smaller, while drawing up the project, the linear parameters of the house are selected so that as much as possible, the amount of timber has fallen entirely, without trimming the blanks. When determining the optimal length, it is necessary to take into account the convenience of transportation.

It is mounted in various schemes. But experts recommend to choose the wood of the same breed for the rafter system as the timber.

Everything else is the door and window openings, the arrangement of floors, the "finishing" finish (if assumed) is made at the discretion of the owner. It is determined independently with materials, and with technology, therefore there is no specific instruction.

The choice of material is the priority problem with which everyone faces who is solved by the personally build a small, reliable and comfortable house in its plot. The modern market of building materials can boldly boast a huge assortment of raw materials for every taste and wallet. Most prefer the tree. And it is not surprising, because a wooden bar is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.

This material is represented in several variations, but in the article we will talk about how to build a house with your own hands from the profiled timber, since it is the most common and possesses the simplest installation technology. It is very compliant for processing, which means that you will be able to carry out electrical wiring, water supply and sewage without special difficulties.

Drawing up a plan, preparation of materials and tools

Without a good project, build a house is simply unrealistic, so it is very important to take extremely seriously to this stage, especially since it is for him to clearly understand what can be saved.

Ideally, you can seek help in special design agencies. For a certain fee, they individually make a complete layout of the future at home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, the composition of the soil, financial capabilities and the most important thing - personal preferences.

If you have no need for some miracle of designer thought, you can build a building using typical options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or to use one of several 3D editors programs, among them Floorplan3D, Cybermotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed for the planning of houses from the bar. SEMA will help you to spend all the necessary statistical calculations, pick up the type of the rafter system and much more.

In the drawing, everything should be indicated, ranging from the overall size of the construction and the number of floors to the location of the door and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).

As soon as the plan turns out to be in your hands, you can proceed to the calculation, if it is not yet produced, and the choice of the required materials and tools, including:

• Bar as the main building material.

You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut-off grooves and spikes - drove, installed - use, also due to the perfectly flat and smooth facet of faces there is no need for additional finishing works, or you can buy wooden blanks, and you can do it yourself, there is nothing difficult in it, And you can save well.

Experts recommend taking a sequence of 150x150 mm when building a timing. But since you have to work alone or with an unqualified assistant, it is better to use the material with a cross section of 150x100 mm. Such a bar is much easier, and the missing volume can be restored in the future, the facade is insulated outside the building.

• Insulation.

To save additionally, the materials that, so to speak, are "at hand" can be used as insulation. Moss is the best among these. It is not difficult to find and processed, but according to its technical characteristics, it is identical to his artificial counterparts.

• Nails, self-tapping screws and other fasteners (metal corners, wooden brazed and so on).
• Waterproofing material (for example, rubberoid).
• Ready concrete solution or components (water, sand, crushed stone, cement necessary for its preparation.
• Armature (if a belt foundation is planned).
• Saw.
• Electrolzik.
• Sculpture.
• A hammer.
• Building rubber hammer.
• Roulette.
• Building level.
• Plumb.
• Circular Saw.
• Pipes for water supply and sewage.
• Cable for electricity wiring, TV.
• Master OK.
• Canopate.
• Other tools for small and decorative works.

Wood harvesting and moss for construction

To build a warm and cozy house from a bar, in addition to the knowledge of the technique of laying the crowns, it is important to understand which kind of breed wood is better suitable for this purpose.

Each breed naturally has its advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing is to pay attention to when choosing a lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the tree is fragile, then your home can simply fall apart if the density is small, then such a material can give a shrinkage to 20, or even more percent. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, well, if the raw materials are unattainable, it will be simply impossible to work with it, the material will become too unreliable.

To the walls of the house there are very serious demands, as they should provide heat, comfort and low noise in the rooms, especially since the tree is rather fire-hazardous material that is capable of deforming due to weather precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing a timber from coniferous rocks, such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Due to the large content of resinous substances, coniferous rocks are resistant to rotting, crackling and other deformations. Also, the trees of this breed are very durable, light, so do not create too much load on the foundation.

By choosing a timber bar from a conifer, you can save, building the foundation for a simplified system.

If you decide to prepare wood yourself, then you need to know that the humidity factor should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will begin to appear in the walls that will require additionally processing, and these are extra costs, time and budget.

In the workpiece, consider the fact that it is better to deal with this in the winter period of the year (from January to March), since in the winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices on the tree trunk becomes minimal.

Cut the sawn timber to the desired shape and sizes, process the antiseptic and leave the dry place in an inaccessible to the sun's rays. Bruks need to be compact in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap in 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. Multiple transverse beams are inserted between them. Lowering this 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.

So that your home kept warmth in rainy weather, it is worth thinking about choosing an interventory insulation. Professional builders use modern belt materials, but the price of such pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.

There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but for construction purposes only some kind of varieties are used, among them: sphagnum, cucushkin moss, red and peat. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the minuses are high flamminess, since after drying the moss becomes dry and fragile, for example, at high temperatures it can be self-splashing to prevent it from being treated with special means.

Moss must be assembled, it is possible to find it on the swampy terrain - it is long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaflets, dry and stored in a dry place for about two weeks. Polyethylene packages can be used as bags, but then the moss will be a little wet. There is nothing terrible in this.

Foundation building

Qualitative foundation is a pledge of a reliable, sustainable and durable housing. Since it is it that is the main supporting structure that must withstand the overall weight of the construction, such high demands are presented to it.

When building a house from a bar uses three main types of foundation:

1. Wine-screw.
2. Nesting.
3. Ribbon.

The choice of the foundation type depends mainly from the soil on which the house is planned. This question must be solved on the planning stage. You must analyze the soil, can also be involved in the neighbors, on which foundation are their homes, or search for information in the purchase documents or other reference literature.

If the soil is pouchedled or watery, and also, if it is planned to use the house only after the season, and not live there all the time, then one of the first two options are used. If it contains a large amount of sand or clay, then a ribbon foundation will fit.

The first thing that is worth starting is to clean the territory from garbage, thickets, bushes and other items, which may interfere. Immediately before the church, you need to mark up. To do this, use conventional wooden peasants, which are placed in the corners of the site, as well as along the bearing walls, and the thread that is stretched between them is simple. Subsequent actions depend on the chosen type of foundation.

Pile-screw foundation

After the territory is cleared and ready for further manipulations, go to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles in a specialized store, as it is quite difficult to build such structures by hand. Choose the supports of the same size and must with the presence of already welded on one end.

Due to the special design, the piles are easy to install on their own, while watching the angle of inclination. This can help a building magnetic level. Also, if there were no caps on the screws, it must be installed. To do this, use the treated metal sheet 25x25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 mm.

Nest foundation

The nesting foundation is distinguished only by the fact that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports are used, or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm, in which cement mortar is poured after installation.

As soon as the marking of the territory was carried out, in the selected points around the perimeter, it is necessary to dug holes with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. The sand layer is covered on the bottom, wet and tightly tamper. After that, at a right angle, support structures are inserted into them, if necessary, the solution is poured into the space around them around them. The remaining gaps between the supports and the soil fall asleep with a mixture of sand and rubble.

There is also an option in the dug holes to install formwork and pour with concrete solution to the ground level, we recommend using the M400 grade cement in the 1: 3 ratio. After complete drying of the cement, the formwork is removed and the aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are filled over.

Ribbon foundation

The ribbon foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the overwhelming majority of cases, for example, if you plan to build a heavy two or more storey house.

The first step is to grow trenches with a width of centimeters by 10-15 more, rather than the thickness of the walls and a depth of 50-70 cm. It should be located at an altitude of at least a meter from the level of groundwater slide.

There are several options for a belt foundation, among them:

• Brick.
• Concrete.
• Stone.

For any of them, it is necessary to prepare the basis. At the bottom of the trench, lay a layer (10 cm) of sand, wetted with a small amount of water and carefully tamped, if necessary, you can pour sand in two layers. On top of it, a layer (15-20 cm) of rubble, broken bricks or small stones are poured.

By the way, on the bottom of the trench you can pre-put geotextiles, and the heat insulation material can be installed on the outer edge - it will help prevent the freezing of fine-breed foundation.

On the resulting pillow, if the construction of a brick or stone base is planned, a little without reaching the top of the foundation, you can install a formwork. Inside it is necessary to pour the layer of the solution to the level of the earth's surface and tamper. To increase sustainability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

Already on top, after complete solo, the brick or stones can be ordered, or use the found themselves on their own near any reservoir. On top of the masonry, another reinforcement belt is installed and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and align.

If a concrete base is planned, the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, the thickness is 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned from a tree, then there should be no cracks, chips, irregularities and other defects on the material.

The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between the rows is 5-10 cm. In the end, a mesh should be obtained with a cell of 15-20 kr. For each other, the rods are associated with a rigid wire, the whole design is filled with cement mortar that can either buy or buy, or Preparation personally. We recommend to spend money on the concrete mixer - it will save you time and nerves, as it is quite difficult to interfere with the cement manually and difficult. Pre-formwork must be mixed with water or wrap a layer of polyethylene film.

It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before pouring the solution. This will help the vibration hammer or you can simply break through the holes, later they will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation leaves to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which a few more follows, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent crackling the foundation. Do not forget to make openings for wiring communications.

Construction and insulation of walls and gender

The wines of the first row are traditionally connected to each other, regardless of the method of connecting the subsequent rows, "in drapery" is quite reliable and easy to perform the type of end louds, and they are not directly on the foundation, but on a lining from small plates located cross-very bruster himself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the rails can be filled with mounting foam. To cut the face, you can use the hacksaw, in order to remove the extra material, pass the chisel.

So, if the rails rot, they will be easier to replace, rather than a number of timber. The plank should also be treated with an antiseptic or ground to prevent the development of fungi and various microorganisms, and put on a coated waterproofing material on the two layers, such as rubberoid, the foundation.

The first row bar must have a slightly large size, rather than the crown of the remaining rows, for example, if the wall uses the material with a cross section of 150x150 mm, then for the first row, use the separation of 200x200 mm.

On the lining made of associates can be mounted lags for roughing, using steel corners and nails or self-tapping screws. These must be attached, the so-called cranial bar, which will further fit the cutting board for the draft floor. On top of the draft should be laid a layer of waterproofing, and on top of it the insulation plate, such as minvat, expanded polystyrene or any other modern analog. The next layer goes vaporizolation, and after - clean floor.

All subsequent ranks are stacked identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:

• "With the residue" - this is when a small part of the bar opens from his two ends.
• "No residue."

The picture below shows different types of face lobs.

This manipulation can be made using a disk saw or elktrol bias. Options "A" and "D" ("without residue") are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult in the installation. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. The option "s" is used to connect the internal bearing walls. Also note that the spike-groove connections need to leave the gap in a half-meter for insulation.

Rows are fixed with each other with wooden or metal brazers. We recommend using the second, since when drying will not pass the sawn timber, which will ensure the durability of your construction.

Using bent for fasteners, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill in such a way that the agent of one row of the heating passes through, and the latter bar is only partially or you can use short bent, for this, the holes are cut from two opposite sides, the hammer is driven by a hammer, and the next thing is simply inserted. Remember that brazening should not be located on each other. In order to design, it was most sustainable, place them in a checker order, as shown in the figure below.

If the walls of your home turned out to be longer than the timber - it does not matter. In this case, it is necessary to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one bar, and at the end of the second, the rectangular protrusion is right in the center, so you get the connection "Schip-groove".

The space between the crowns can be insulated with the help of a pre-assembled and dried moss and pacles. The pass is laid across the bars, moss simply throws from above. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will be written out - it is not scary, as it is planned to be carried out on a pantry, and it in turn will ensure maximum thermal insulation.

In order for the bars of one row to be at the same height, we use a rubber hammer, tapping them along the walls after installing each bar. The plans are used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the irregularity of the lower row it is impossible to install the top row beam.

*Important! Do not forget to alternate angular connections.

The last two rows of the crowns are not attached, because in the future, after shrinkage there will be a rafting system. To do this, have to dismantle these two rows.

For the design of the door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all rows, and after, making a mark, cut the necessary holes, or use the beams in advance of such a length, so that they subsequently formed windows and doors. Remember that the size of the opening should exceed the size of the door itself or the window, since it is still necessary to leave a place to install window and door boxes. Also over the windows and doors, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm. This is necessary in order to further when the ram will give a shrinkage, do not damage the designs of the windows of the ID believe. It will be necessary to fill in a liquid insulation.

Roof roofing

After the last row of the crowns was erected, the building is needed to cover with rubberoid or slate and give it. The shrinkage period on average takes up to 6 months, only after that you can move to the installation of the roof and facing work.

There is a huge number of roof variations. The most reliable and stable is the four-minded or hip roof, it is used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is rather difficult to build it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a duplex. Briefly tell about the installation stages and the main elements.

To begin with, it is necessary to isolate the surface of the walls from moisture using, for example rubberoid. It is necessary for two layers. After mocking Mauerlat - the base for the rafter system in which special cuts are made, with which the rafter legs are attached. Mauerlat will serve as a top row of the crowns, previously processed by an antiseptic.

The rafted themselves, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, should be made of a bar with a cross section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200х50 mm. They should not be outside the house of more than half the meter, if more - is expected to install additional supports. It is installed on the racks of 5-6 cm with a thickness of 5-6 cm with a width of 10-20 cm with a step, which depends on the roofing material (the tile - the rolls are placed in bulk if slate or professional flooring - at a distance of 30 cm apart). Sometimes they establish a controlling, on top of which the roofing material itself is mounted. In the resulting space between two inches, the insulation, steam and waterproofing are paired.

The ceiling consists of several ceiling lags, which are attached by the "spike in the groove" method to the top row of the bar. The remaining manipulations are identical to the floor. Between the first and rough ceiling, you can additionally pave the insulation, isolation. In the future, this can reduce heat loss up to 30%.

So that the roof was stable, strong, kept the strong wind and served for many years, it is worth thinking about additional supporting structures, such as a beam, so-in, tightening, racks and others. All of them are attached with hardware, such as steel corners and screws.

Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, a hole for chimney and an attic, if it is planned. The roof fronts can be sewn with a decorative block house.

Remember! Any roof over time requires repair. Therefore, in order to reduce financial expenses, specialists recommend annually to check the coverage for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (riggers, racks, and so on), and the leakage is eliminated by replacing the rotten roofing material.

Suitable

The last stage of construction work is to install inlets and interior doors, windows. If necessary, work is carried out on insulation and decorative wall decoration either inside or outside the house. Conduct electricity, water, heat, plug in the sewage system.

Now that you know the main stages of the construction of the house from the bar on their own, as well as ways to save money, you can begin the construction of a warm, cozy and reliable housing, which will warm and delight you over the years.