Last week I decided on unprecedentedly led the lesson - paint the thumbnails. From the side, probably, nothing special is visible. But in fact, for me is a significant event. As a person, absolutely not understanding anything in drawing and received a five in the school of the tops for a diligence, I was sure that I would not succeed. But practice showed that I worked in vain.

So, having familiarized with numerous advice, on Friday I went to the store for the necessary accessories. I was going to buy primer, varnish and tassels. Paints I have promised to give acquainted for free.

Primer I chose black. This color met in all articles and instructions on painting, so I had no doubt. In some places, white and gray colors were mentioned, but the vast majority of the authors spoke of black. I bought it. Varnish I took a matte, because Somewhere I read that if you take a glossy, then the miniatures will become "sweaty" because of the brilliance. Varnish and primer became the most expensive purchases - each bottle is just over 300 rubles.

Tassels took several: 00, 0 and 2 and some more. Found on the "black river" showcase, but they seemed very scary. Therefore, I took the tassels of the brand "Gallery", which cost a little more expensive, rubles for 40-50. I also purchased myself a palette (60 rubles) and a solvent for paint (40 rubles). Total purchases went about 900 rubles.

Then I went to my paints familiar. I was given about ten jars of glossy acrylic paint of the Decola brand, as well as several tubes with paint "Metallic". I was a little disappeared, because I would like to get matte, but, as you know, for free and chloride cottage cheese goes 🙂 at my disposal, probably, all the necessary colors: orange, red, green, blue, purple, gray, brown, black. Plus "Metallic": silver, bronze, copper, gold.

Arriving home, I began to pretend, how can I primed the figurines. First of all, I threw a trial batch - a flanistler and ultralicis in a plate with water diluted with a cleaning agent. Everywhere it is written that miniatures need to be deguted, and I chose the easiest way.

Then I took one of the boxes from under the parcels, and, cut off the lid and cut the front side. It turned out a device for primer: I planned to put the figures inside, and then splash on them paint from the bottle. In order not to breed the stench in the house, went into the entrance.

Put in the box of ultralyysk, the flanisther and another simplest caterpillar and turned on the camera. And my friend Saw100500 grabbed the balloon and began to pixw on the figures, having previously swallowed it for about a minute. It seemed to me that he did not respect the recommended distance at 20-30 cm, but, as it turned out, there is nothing terrible in this.

Primer, by the way, really stinks. We even for the second batch, when the infantry and a hydraulis were primed, thought about vanity-gauze bandages. Although, then, I just moved the box to the balcony. It turned out much more convenient - and you can open the window to get rid of the smell, and trite light more.

The next day, the miniatures were dried, and I took up the brush. It would probably have to look at first in the network of photos of painted figures, but I did not do this. I decided to paint the first myself, as I will think about it, so paint.

My first figurine was the flamethrower of the Jim Reynora fraction. In the original he was red, so I began to paint it into red. And immediately collided with an incomprehensible phenomenon. The paint was applied to the primer not very good. I do not even know what's the matter. Maybe I got some kind of paint, or I chose an irregular primer. Or, for example, he took not that silent (00), but the thumbnail was not completely red. Every time I spent a brush, the black blasting background came out. As I did not try to repeat the particularly difficult plots, I did not reach anything. On the figurine places came black, and I just decided not to pay attention to it. I painted cylinders with gas and painted the same color.

Then I immediately took the infantryman. I was also painted it in red, experiencing the same problems with the appealing primer. Then I painted the rifle in the hands of the infantry gray. They also painted his helmet and put more points on the knees and rear on the scaffle. Finished thumbnails I put in the same box and kept. The process is approximately the same as with the primer, only the bottle of another.

For my taste, the first miniatures came pretty mediocre. Due to the appealing black color, they turned out to be dirty. But, nevertheless, I was satisfied with my work. After all, when you put the original figure and painted, you look and compare "to" and "after," you understand that painted is better, even if it is also painting and not ideal.

The second party for me was the protoss: "Caterpillar" and Dragun. They were in the original were orange, so I began to paint them orange. He began with the caterpillar. The paint fell on her worse nowhere. From under orange, black spots were constantly talked. I painted, painted, painted, painted and painted, but it didn't get better. The figure looked just awful. Similarly, it turned out with dragun. It turned out to be dirty-orange, spotted and completely ugly.

After the figures dried, I tried to paint them again. This time, the color was already better, the black became smaller, but he still fell. Then I gave the miniatures to dry up, and after painted them for the third time. Now the caterpillar turned out more or less. When I put on it blue spots (somewhere on the pictures on the web I saw the same), it began to look no longer so shameful. But the dragoon is to paint normally, alas, failed. So he remained dirty.

In the third reception, I took painting ultralyysk and hydraulis. Ultralish was surprisingly easy for me. I worried in advance what would work out with the protoss, but brown and purple paints fell for him surprisingly well. Probably, the whole thing is that they are quite dark and if the black substrate has sharpened somewhere, then it is not so noticeable. In addition to the brown (torso) and purple (shell on her head and back), I used another metal color to which the beer was painted.

Then I took the hydracy. I painted it in the same colors: brown torso, purple shell inserts and metal fang-limbs. For beauty, put more red-eyed eyes and fell with a metallic where the jaw should be. Hydralisk turned out very well, but unfortunately, came out somewhat dark. I would like it to be lighter, and then brown and purple colors practically merge.

After that, I painted several infantry and flamers in the ConVer. Colors used the same as they used to paint easily.

The next step was the painting of ghosts-Ghost'ov. Thumbnails are pretty small, but it did not prevent them from painting. I painted the shape in red, the space and hands covered with gray, and did not touch the rifle by the shoulders, she remained black.

Then I painted the equipment: Goliafov, Tanks and Vulture (Vulture). And again faced problems. Goliaphs have come out yet. I painted them with gray and only the cab and inserts made red, but the vulture-motorcycles and tanks painted red-gray and they turned out very dirty, like the Protzovsky Dragun. I tried to paint the second layer, but I did not come out something. As a result, of course, miniatures look good, but very careless.

Here are my first results: 5 infantrymen, 2 flameters, 2 ghosts, 2 grind, 2 tank, 2 goliath, 1 hydraulic, 1 ultralisk, 1 dragoon, 1 caterpillar. Total 19 figures. I painted them for a short time, a total of two or three hours spent probably. Quite acceptable time. True, the results are not very. I evaluate the infantry and hydraulis on the "Troychka", ultralisk - on "four" with a minus (because it turned out to be too dark), and the caterpillar and Goliapha - on the top one with a minus. But dragun, tanks and vultures - alas, only "pairs" deserve. They are too dirty.

And now - a few questions to the connoisseurs.

I degreased in soapy water only the first two miniatures. The remaining primed so. In my opinion, no differences. Nothing terrible if I and the other figures "bathe" will not?

Miniature I painted with a tassel 00. Is that normal? Maybe it would be more correct to use another?

Finally, the most important question is: how to make paint lay down to a smooth layer, and the primer from under it did not appear? And then I have already thought of grief about the protoss orange to primitive.

Another question - how to paint "flying" figures? They are on the stands that cannot be removed (glued). So far, I thought only before wrapping the supports from the bottom of the paper, and after the primer, remove it. Maybe there are more options?

In general, I realized that painting is quite simple. I think, in the foreseeable future, I will preach the Rainor army, and then think about either finished with figures from Starkraft.or moving to Memoram..

Related records

No Related Posts.

I will start from afar.

Being a tablefish with a certain experience, a fan of Euro-games, which, besides, often suffered from a paralysis of the analysis, I never thought that I would paint the miniatures. I was dreaming played as a party on Puerto Rico, Glory to Rome, New Era, Castles of Burgundy, and so on. And the thumbnails are painted by these ... Vregueeeeemers who are assembled, measured rules and all that. It turns out no. It turns out, the world, like its parts, is not divided into black and white. Opening of the century straight!

No, still not quite from afar. In the autumn of 2015, Andrei S., being my friend and part-time one of the few owners of the game Kingdom Death: Monster in Russia, another edition, introduced me to her. Since then, we have almost all our meetings, tales, tusses and even a couple of evenings in the Tabletop simulator sat over a field of 16 * 22 cells, throwing Cuba and joyfully, when the next survival lost his head. Literally, of course. What about the euro-games, paralysis analysis, and that's all this? Yes, there it also is in some sense. But it does not interfere with the cuts of the cubes in any way! The game with miniatures, which are generally not needed for the game, except for aesthetics and atmosphere (we, for example, played with colored Mipli, because they are better to distinguish them and carry them to the kepes). Who suddenly became interested -.

In November 2016, when the game came to the kickstarter in the editorial office of 1.5, I was already morally ready to find my copy. Cheap pleasure came out, but then I suddenly understood! Kingdom Death is a heaven of a hobbyst! Buy the game for so much money in which there is such a number of thumbnails is quite high to play Mipli? And suddenly glue miniatures and paint - it's interesting? For no reason, so many people are fond of this.

Year I waited, in the winter of 2017 he received a cherished box. Iiii ... Successed! Yes, painting it interesting. Playing his own painted miniatures is very nice. No matter how cool, one advantages. The only minus - where to find enough time for all this ... Heh ... Well, enough preludes. Towards a matter!

I will not tell the painting techniques, because it has not yet mastered anyone. Yes, and articles on this topic are full. I'll tell you about my personal experience, that is, how it is generally - to start painting miniatures.

Step 1. Model for assembly.

First of all, I went to the store and bought a glue there for plastic Tamiya, a model knife and a rug for cutting.

Collect 4 survivors and a couple of monsters. Interesting, delays!

Step 2. Brush test or unfortunate dwarf.

My wife earlier was engaged in dolls, so some paint brushes were left, but something (almost everything, in fact) had to bribe. She worked as bristles, so stopped on protein and synthetics, round brushes sizes 0-1-2 and a pair of flat. In the nearest artistic store there was a choice between Rubleff and Davinci brushes, the second is very expensive, so they took Rubleff. Also bought acrylic white ground in the bank, because The soil in the canopy, they say, strongly stink and work is really nowhere.

Why do you need a soil? He creates a dense layer on a miniature, to which the paint falls better than on plastic, i.e. Better shelters. White soil from the can be acrylic paint in any color.

Having arrived in Allegis - this is the official dealer of Games Workshop, bought a pair of metallic, the main colors (black, white, red, blue, yellow, green, brown) and a pair of sheds - black and sepia. Brand paints - Citadel.

The first candidate for the mockery was the gnome from Warhammer. I did not dil the paint (then it seemed to me that she was so slightly thick), as a palette, a piece of paper wrapper from chocolate was used. Painted it roughly as coloring to understand at all like it. Is that the spray added, though in the process it turned out that the spray, the crooked hands flashed on a silver metallic, perfectly tinting it. And undiluted paint, if putting it in several layers to correct the consequences of unplanned tinting, closes the detail .... In general, the unfortunate gnome was painted completely without any idea, in some random colors.

Sprupping is a strongly divorced paint, which cries in deep plots and creates the effect of the shadow there. In any case, it is its main application. You can make it yourself or buy finished in a jar, but some chemistry has been added in the jar for greater fluidity.

Observations and conclusions:

Acrylic paint (especially undressed, ha!) It will dry extremely quickly.

The brush from the protein is very flexible and painting her small details of the ternary torment.

It would be desirable to get bright light.

Step 3. Bent tips or sad Goblin.

To begin with, I solve questions of paramount importance. I get synthetic brushes, because They are dense and elastic, paint small details them is much more pleasant than a protein. I study the Internet for the wet palette and collect it from the girlfriend. I take a small plastic container for food, there we are folded in a few layers of a rag, pour water, top with a piece of paper for baking. Ready! And in the hummut of creativity with a table lamp.

The wet palette is needed so that the paint on the palette is slower. Moreover, it can be removed in the refrigerator, and the paint does not dry several days. It is very convenient for divorced paints, because The same shade will be remembered not easy.

Mixing white soil with black paint, get a gray soil. The soil is not yet very sad goblin. Soil Into a flat synthetic brush, trying to slightly pour small details.

Apply basic colors. Skin green, brown tree, robe ... blue?! I do not have a blue color, so I interfere with blue with white.

Basic colors serve as the basis for dimming areas, which should be dark, and highlighting the protruding parts.

I shed shadows, trying not to climb the prayer to the base colors. As I know now, she ties them in a darker shade, and I don't need it. It remains to evil the protruding and draw the items. I find in the guide table mixing paints to roughly understand what you need to mix. And I see that by unacceptable manipulations, you can get a purple color! Then let Rob at Goblin be purple! Recovery, re-shed.

Mixing paints to evilution. This is usually done with lighter base colors. And the paint must be breeding a little more ... And a little more - is it like? There is a proportion, it is only difficult to comply with the Citadel paints. Unlike some other manufacturers (for example, Vallejo), which use jars with a spout, from where you can drop a drop of paint and measure the proportions of water, from the canadel cans the paint gets brushes. In general, I grind somehow ...

It begins fine work, and it turns out that the tip of my brush began to bend. No, of course, I was rather rude to her, stiguously pushed into the water and ter of the jar, blending the paint ... but so that right away! Have you ever tried to paint the plumage of arrows on a miniature of a 28mm brush with a curved tip, and even shaking hands? Do not try better, many nerves save. Goblin ribbed sharply ... With grief in half, I do flames. At the very end, we decide - and why would the final having to do not make a dry brush technique? Then Goblin was generally upset. Well, what about me? Let him go sad, since he wants so much.

Observations and conclusions:

For mixing paints on a wet palette, it is better to take a brush with a soft pile. Synthetic is rather tough and quickly wipes wet bakery paper, as a result of which small papers fall into the paint, and then on the thumbnail.

Synthetic is also not suitable, in any case, so far. I read the Internet, I buy brushes from the column, the manufacturer of Rubleff.

Step 4. Kingdom. Death, start or girl in green.

I continue to improve the inventory. The first upgrade got a tray with a wet palette - instead of a wet rag, which because of its softness contributes to rubbing the paper from above, I got a piece of floristic brick. It is smooth, sufficiently solid, cuts off on the shape of the tray, it holds water well and remains wet from above for quite a long time. And then you can pour it again with water.

I buy a comfortable LED lamp on a flexible leg. Again, I'm going to Allegis behind the colors and buy quite a lot of shades of gray, white and brown. I already have an approximate understanding of what I want to do with my first miniature KDM.

Soil, as usual, calze in gray, but I do not like this cold dark gray, so I add a little brown, it makes the color more natural. I stick the miniature on the base and the soil. In general, the design of the bases is a separate big topic, I'll touch it on it. There are some included - and okay.

The base is such a stand on which miniature is steadily on the table. Bases are included with the game, and they look like a floor of stone faces, everything is like in the plot.

The miniature will be used when playing, and, according to my idea, should have a color code to differ from others about the same miniatures. Practice has shown that the miniatures are best on the field exactly in color, and not by poses, in arms or even the color of the stand.

Apply basic colors. The first kdm miniature is green! So, green leather armor, skin in the color of the skin, the sword in the color of light bones, the hair will be brown. In the process it turns out that light shades are quite poorly covered with dark gray grounds. For leather, used paint Scale 75 from the set for shades of the skin, which I kindly pressed all the same Andrei S., and it is not very suitable for applying a base color.

Paints Base I. Layer. W. Citadel has paints for different purposes. In particular, base is better for applying basic colors, and layer is less covered, therefore it is better suited for flames and dimming.

Next, shed shadows, light. Since the shades of the green I never bought, I mix the green with white in different proportions to get two shades - a little bitten by the basic and very lighter. I have a plan on the bone sword (I saw in one of the short rollers in painting Citadel) - to tint it with a spray from a light tip to a dark base. I try - it works! In the process of the painting of this miniature, I completely abandoned the synthetic in favor of the column.

With breeding paint water is still incomprehensible. Divide "strongly" - the paint is hanging on the brush. They say, it is necessary to wipe the surplus paint about the cloth so that this is not. You wipe - the miniature paint is almost not going. In general, the method of trial and error is gradually moving to the finish.

The base is in black color, shed a good black spray so that there are no bright places left and dry brush runs around the faces from above, so that the details have sharpened.

Step 5. Kingdom. Death, start to get or dangerous in red.

You know what? Tightens, still like! Ordered an organizer for paints, chaos on the table begins to annoy, although I have total 30 jars. Rides mini-lightbox, photo miniatures should become much better. There are some materials for the design of the bases (about it later). And this is only the beginning ... On the one hand, it is a pity that there is a little free time, and on the other hand - maybe it's good?!?

This uncle I was first, with such a dangerous tilt of my head, that I barely collarly put on him. He will wear red.

First dark gray soil. By the way, the acrylic soil from the can, mixed with paint, dries very quickly. Somewhere in 20 minutes you can paint.

Then basic colors. Gray fabric, red leather armor (I wonder where the survivors in this strange world take dyes for the skin?), Bright, light brown fur and hair, knives in the color of light bones.

Then spraying the corresponding colors - sepia for the skin and fur, black for fabric, I do not have dark red for armor, so I spill purple.

I begin to draw flames. Since I already know that the spray is tinting into a darker shade, too strong flashes gently correctly adjust a small amount of spray. By the way, the spray gives not a very pleasant brilliance, perhaps it will leave after the final coating with a matte transparent varnish. While I have not used the lacquer.

Varnish is needed in order to fix the paint on the thumbnail. From active influences on the thumbnail, paint can be pulled, especially on thin protruding parts.

Knives to paint according to the proven scheme, gradually the darkening bone of the spray-sepion and adding brown at the end. It is still not given to breeding paint and gaining it on the brush, and most likely will not be given for a long time. Sometimes a lot of liquid paint remains on the brush and on the thumbnail it is going to the drop. If this drop fastdo not remove, it will not be very good, you have to withdraw the color back, and with the curves of your hands, everything is common from this. I tried to paint your eyes, but unsuccessfully, I had to paint back. In general, I get something like a trial and error that somehow satisfies me. Yes, what to say there, even like it. But the main thing - to like himself!

The most important thing in all methods is painted - to understand only one thing. In a whole - not just the sum of its components.

Each technique, whatever steep result, it does not give, nothing is worth it if only in itself is used. Do not dwell on the constant use of some sheds or dry brushes, how you did not like them - use as much as possible and combine for maximum effect.

Dribsh and Overbrush.

Some of you will begin to curvate from these names. In general, most of the coloring mines of people consider Dryibrus almost with a cringe.

And on the one hand, they can be understood - many are not particularly diligently and correctly use these techniques, creating Heroole "Techniques for lazy newcomers." And then, more or less mastered the skill of the paint, also begin to be written off "I painted without a drive, finally I can't get it with this gallop".

PF.

Dryibash or dry brush - This is one of the most simple techniques.

The essence - you take a little bit of diluted paint on the brush, and you remove it mostly ( about a separate napkin or wiping about the palette). The residues are applied on Minka with sufficiently rude movements, literally "wipe" on the edges and surfaces.

That in the method well - it is really simple, and it is quite difficult to "smear superfluous" - everything is very easily controlled and you can always stop in time.

What is bad - it is quite monotonous, and if you apply only it, all your mines will be on one person.

Overbrush - The same dry brush, by and large. The only difference is that the paint with the brush is not cleaned about the palette or napkin, and right and smears.

This is more difficult the droplet, because you can smear too much. On the other hand, this method can replace the application of the base layers, if the mink is dark and in black soil.

The difference in general is as follows: Overbrush fills the gaps, it has more obvious strokes, and at the same time it comes out more shelled, and the driver complains mainly only around the edges with protruding parts, and pass through it more translucent the previous layers

In order for these techniques to have the right to life, they must be used with a bunch of different colors, combine each other and other methods, and on top of the mandatory ink or spray for blackout.

If you choose only one painting technique, which gives a good result quickly and even when curved hands ...

it spraying.

Prayers can be painted in inhumanly quickly. My record is 23 minutes on the model.

Twenty three minutes, Karl!

If you are new or just want to normally and quickly dye "on the table" - master the spray.

Likbez and terms

The word "spray" is called either shades and gllases - special types of paint (more liquid and transparent), or different "spilling techniques" painting.

To avoid confusion, I will say like this:

• "Shada" and "Glase" - This special types of paint, which are commonly used for spilling equipment. In GW, they will be called, Shade and Glaze. Other manufacturers of Shade are usually called Wash.
• "Spray" - This is one of the "spilled techniques" painting.

At first I will tell you what shades / gllauses are needed to take first and how to dilute them.

Then we will analyze the "spray techniques": spray, shading, toning and lining. For each technique, I will tell you how to do it, as it looks like the examples, and in what situations it is applied.

And at the end of the article, I will show examples of work painted mainly by spilling techniques.

WHAT DO YOU NEED

- It is necessary to bo-e-olish gold.

Shada and gllays

I use Shade and Glase (Glaze) GW. I really like: the colors are good, go fine.

• The most necessary: Black (Nuln Oil), Blue (Drakenhof Nightshade), Brown (Agrax Earthshade)
• Often need: Sine-green (Coelia Greenshade), Sepia (Sepia), Red-brown (Reikland Fleshshade), Bolotnaya (Athonia Camoshade), Violet (Druchii Violet)
• Rarely needed: Red (Carroburg Crimson), Yellow (Cassandora Yellow), Green (Biel-Tan Green), Orange (Fuegan Orange), And All Glase (Lamenters Yellow, Waywatcher Green, Guilliman Blue, Bloodletter)

Spray techniques can be used not only with shades and globes, but also with conventional paints. For this, paint needs to be strongly diluted and / or mixed with mediums.

However, ordinary paints, divorced to the Ceid / Gleza consistency, do not behave like real shades and gllays. Spread out, lay down stains and puddles.

If you paint on the table and do not apply for artist - score on this hemorrhoid from the very beginning. Just buy a shade and GW gllase and sleep quietly. They are much more convenient for spilling techniques than dilute paints.

Medium

Shada and gllase most often need to be diluted, and not with water and the medium. The medium is a colorless liquid that makes paint transparent, Almost without changing the delicate, fluidity and surface tension. I use GW Lahmian Medium:

If you dilute the paint with water, then it will behave differently on the models: spread and dry up with puddles (the pigment settles along the edges of the spots). If you dilute the medium - the paint will be easier to control, and it will dry evenly, not puddles.

Medium - now your "water 2.0", it needs a lot, if possible, buy 2-3 banks at once.

For the game there is enough enough. If you want experiments - buy Vallehov Matt Medium and Gloss Medium, go with them too. I sometimes find use.

Pussy

Spillify techniques do not kill the brushes (unlike for example the driver), so no additional brushes do not need. Use the usual, which colive. Most often "1" and "0" are sufficient if they paint large models, then probably "2" will come in handy.

Airbrush for spilling technician is not suitable. If the shades are sprayed - they fall on a smooth thin layer, darken the surface, and this is not so shadow in the recesses of the relief.

Technique 1: Spray (Wash / Washing / Wearing / Lesservation)
difficulty - Low

Classic vehicle. First, color the surface in the base color of the usual paint (the maximum covered, GW is BASE / FOUNDATION). Now spraying: Take a lot of shade on the brush and swear on the entire surface. The paint will mostly go into the recess, draws relief, and tints the entire surface.

Shade dries slowly. Immediately after you generously poured the surface with a shade, it can be redesigned with a wet brush, remove stains or unnecessary clusters. If we blocked - you can collect the brush of surplus.

If you correctly picked up the base color and put the spray correctly - everything is ready. Do not need to evil. This is the fastest painting technique, for which it is not even necessary to be neat.

If you have accumulated when the base colors were painted, somewhere climbed, Izmazali - Sprapping everything erased, soften your mistakes.

Take the base color. To obtain a normal result of a spray, you need to use a light base color (Basecoat), on top of which you put a shade. Lighter than you use usually. If you take as a basic average color - miniature will be very dark. If before that you painted with lover from the dark to light, you will have to rebuild brains (at first it is unusual, it seems that I was mistaken with the basic color, but then it turns out normally).

Light sad. If mostly you are going to paint with praises - stuff in light color (white, light beige, light gray).

Dilute. You can put the shade undivided, directly from the can. It is faster, but it looks dirty. If you are not in a hurry - mix the shade with the medium (approximately in half), and put 2-3 layers. If a mixture of shade and medium is too thick - you can add a drop of water.

Let dry. Wait until the layer is completely dry, before putting the next one. Otherwise, a slice of a not dried layer, and it will be very difficult to fix it.

* Pre-spilling. If you are blunting the thumbnail with light soil (white, light gray, beige), it is useful throughout the miniature to walk the diluted dark shade. Such spray draws relief, and all the details will be clearly visible. It will be easier to paint.

* Spring on the soil. A completely cheat option is to primitive in such a color that the pionate is not necessary to put the base color. Just begin the soil with a shade of the desired color, and say "ready."

* Spraying on flames. The complicated version of the art is to first breathe the surface with the usual lover (layers), and then shed. Spruce connect layers, soften sharp transitions.

So, shedding can be: outline the relief after the priming (so that it is more convenient to paint), fully paint the model (on the bright soil or on light base colors), mitigate the transitions when weaning and quickly sharpened.

Technique 2: Shading
difficulty - High

The option is more comprehensive. Dilute the shade with the medium, more, 1: 4 - 1: 8 approximately. Apply this almost transparent mixture not to the entire surface, but only to the place that must be sharpened. Shade on the brush should be quite a little bit at the tip.

One layer is usually not enough. Put 2-3-4 layers until the shadow is dark enough. Brush brush strokes so that each new layer is a bit of "braziness", then the border between the layers will be blurred, it will be relatively smooth transition.

Read the article if you want to get access to this technique. There the face deal in detail, with the names of the paints and the explanations wherever I put the shadow.

All the same rules: the base color of the turn, dilute as it should, and let the previous layer dry before putting the next one.

The shading can be made "almost blending", without having steep painting skills and high accuracy in working with a brush.

Technique 3: Toning (Glazing / Glasing)
difficulty - High

Toning is not spilling at all, the meaning of technology in the other. If the spray darkens the surface and draws the relief, then the tinting changes the shade. For gaming technique, it is unlikely to be needed.

First use - color Effects: Rushes on cheeks or nose, leather shades, colored glare / shadow on armor.

Take the Glase and dilute the medium, 1: 6 or more. Take on the brush a little bit of this gllase, and swipe the brush along the napkin. Almost all globes will remain on the napkin, and the brush will be only slightly moistened with the remnants of the glove. Here is this wet brush and make stars where you need to tint. Most likely you will need 2-3 layers.

If you do not drop out of paint over the napkin, then instead of soft toning, you will get an inaccurate spot.

Second application - restore color: If you have laid the surface too, it turned out to be whiten, faded, then the toning will restore the color and take care of unnecessary flames.

To restore the color, dilute the gllase is not so strong, 1: 2 - 1: 6, and this time you do not need to wipe the brush about the napkin. Just take a small amount of gloss on the brush, and apply on the entire surface. Glazes on the brush should not be much, otherwise you risk not toning, but to instruct stains.

Toning is "cheap blending". Toning softens the transitions between the layers that are under it.

Technique 4: Lining (Lining)
the complexity is middle

Lining is the drawing of lines-recesses or junctions between surfaces. With a solid hand, Linging can be done by conventional paints, but the shadows are easier for shapes.

Linging visually shares areas on miniature, it becomes easier to consider it. Linging hides inaccuracies in painting: if you slightly "climbed a slightly" adjacent color, the shade will take to the joint of the areas and hides the error.

Take on a thin brush (zero or unit with a good sharp tip) a little shade. Gently swipe the brush over the line-deepening or the joint between the surfaces.

Some shade on the brush. Shade on the brushes should be a little, otherwise to fool. Better gradually draw a line, and take paint on the brush as needed.

Krave the tip of the brush. When spraying or shading, you can slightly press on the brush so that it is slightly flattened over the surface of the miniatures. When lining do this it is impossible: I will smear the shade, it will not work fine. Therefore, in recess only the tip of the brush.

Do not dilute. For Lining, use undiluted shades. Otherwise, they suffer several times carefully carry out a thin line.

WORK EXAMPLES

Several works, where spills are 70-90% of the painting technology. Each painted very quickly, no complaints about quality, simply detachments for the table.

Drug Shasvasti: 23 minutes on the model. Even except light sources painted with poles on basic colors, without lioning.

Detachment Hassassin: 43 minutes per model. Everything besides sources of light and visors painted by pouring on basic colors or at all along the soil, without lierying.

Saito Togan: 2 hours. Basically spray for white soil, except for armor and katana.

SUMMARY

Spruce is the fastest and simple painting technique. Beginning, you can paint a big squad / a small army per day - two.

If you are novice: spray will hide your mistakes and will not require high accuracy from you in working with a brush. If now you are painting worse than examples at the end of this article, you will be shedding. Painting in the photo is very simple and fast, you can so much by pouring.

If you are more expensive: take shading, tinting and lining. These are technicians who gave me Level AP in quality. All of them are "cheap blending", greatly increase the quality of the painting, but not particularly difficult.

Good painting!
Dmitry Bogdanov

P.S.

Newbies - Is everything clear? Have questions?

Experienced - What else will you tell me about the sheds?

Write a couple of lines in the comments!