One of the best materials for decorative interior design was wood. Being completely natural, neither in the processing process, nor during operation, the tree does not allocate substances harmful to health. Tree is practical, the tree is beautiful. Using a simple tool, you can create a unique carvings: panel, casket, statuette.

Carved wood from a tree - the best decoration of your own home and a great gift. Thread is easy, a wood master can become each, it is necessary only a bit of talent, a lot of perfection and, of course, good tools for wood thread.

Without what can not do the beginning of the rapid

Anyone who will be lucky to be in the workshop of the Tree Carving Master, will be terrified - so much that uses various tools. Just eyes scatter. The master will easily determine than to perform one or another touch, which is best suited for a particular detail. The choice of the correct thread tool largely determines the quality of the product.

The beginning of the rapid is not at all necessary to purchase a complete set of tools, for the manufacture of start-up products, you can do several the most versatile knives and chisels. This will give the opportunity to get experience, work out your style, and after getting just the tool that will really be in demand.

Knives-shoys

The most common knives for wood thread - knives are shoals. They enjoy both mastic professionals and beginner carvers. Knives of this type have a bevelled blade, thanks to which it is convenient to create small recesses. Their use is justified both for flat-sample sample, and to create bulk compositions.

A separate type of jamb - knife checkbox. It looks like a triangle, one corner stuck in the handle. This knife is universal, the work uses all the blades zones.

Knives and shoals are characterized by an angle of cutting edge and blade width. In the form of sharpening distinguish between single-phase and two-info. In the toolkit of the novice carver, there must be several such knives: at least three different widths.

Cutters for geometric thread

In the manufacture of embossed panels, do not do without another common knife of the draver - the knife-cutter. Due to the longer blade, such a knife is ideal for creating ornaments having a form of geometric shapes. It is convenient to process curvilinear figures and roundings. Thus, triangles and other figures are cut off with a knife-hat.

In addition to creating flat reliefs, cutters are widely used for bulk products. In skillful hands, a small cutter can compare with the painter's brush.

Bogorodsky Knife, "Tatyanka"

The phrase "Bogorodskaya Toy" is familiar to many. This is a wooden figurine handmade. Virtually the entire process of carving from the preparation of the workpiece to smoothing small irregularities is performed by a special knife, also called Bogorodsky. Such a knife must certainly be in the carper workshop.

The modification of this knife is widespread, the people called "Tatyanka". When cutting up soft wood, a full cycle of work can be performed by one of this tool. It is great for threads "for strength", thanks to a comfortable handle, Ideally conveys an effort on the blade.

Chisels for wood thread

Samples of various configurations are convenient to do with the help of the chisels. Cutters use a different tool, but most common:

• straight chisels;
• semicircular or radiped;
• copperazy, semicircular chisels with bend in the cutting edge;
• combat, having a P-shaped profile;
• corner.

Unlike knives, the use of chisels for wood thread allows you to make the groove of the required depth and profile in one pass. When working with soft wood, the chisel is pressed by hand, carving on a solid requires percussion technology. Here to the aid of the master comes a wooden hammer, a cynicha.

In addition to differences in the profile, the chisels are distinguished in size. There is a tool with a working edge from two millimeters to several centimeters.

In addition, there is another type of engraving tools and wood threads - Schtihel. They can perform beautiful artwork.

Other necessary tools

Some knives and chisels can not do. You must acquire a different tool intended for wood processing. The list can be very extensive, it all depends on the qualification of the wizard and the list of products that it plans to produce. In any case, it will be necessary:

• hacksaw or electric saw for cutting blanks;
• topor for roughing;
• plancock and Raspil to prepare the surface of the board;
• a set of patterns for transferring an image to the workpiece;
• drill, manual or electric;
• nichrome wire for burning thin elements;
• grinding skin of different grainability for final finishing of the product.

Also it will not be able to worry about security when carving a sharp tool. For fixing small products, joineric vise or several clamps are needed. Protective glove from steel wire will help protect your hands from injuries, this is especially relevant for beginner cutters. If the work implies multiple movements to a sharp knife "on itself", it is worth purchasing a thumbs of thick skin.

Sharpening tool

So that the wood carving brings pleasure, and the created masterpieces pleased the eye, the tool should be sharp. If the process of material resistance is felt in the process, it is necessary to take a break and sharpen the tool. This will make it possible not to make excessive efforts during thread and guarantees the excellent quality of each stroke, each groove.

Sharpening should begin with the leveling of the working surface of the tool. To do this, use coarse abrasive. He quickly and qualitatively removes burrs, creates an ideal cutting edge.

Note! In this paper, it is important not to spoil the sharpening angle from the tree on the tree and the geometry of the knife blade.

Working on the emery, it is necessary to be neat, it is impossible to allow the metal overheating, the cutting edge can be "released" with sharp drops of temperature.

After the large irregularities are removed, go to fine-grained abrasives. During grinding remove roughness, which occurred during the draft sharpening of the tool for the thread. The latter use grinding mixtures applied to the felt base. They create a perfectly smooth surface, reducing friction between the tool and the material to a minimum.

Choice and purchase

A novice carver naturally arises a question - where to take a thread tool. Nowadays this is not a problem. Industry offers chisels and knives of all kinds and modifications. You can purchase several knives and one or two chisels, and you can buy a set of tools, guided by our own taste and financial capabilities.

Oddly enough, but a wide range of the tool of the cutter noticeably complicates the choice. It is difficult to navigate and buy a truly good thing. It is easy to become the owner of a "disposable" tool, which is enough for several hours of operation.

Before buying the tool, you will certainly ask:

• steel brand from which a tool is made;
• manufacturer's company;
• country of manufacture.

The tool is an individual thing. Choosing a knife or a chisel, the right one will hold it in the hands, check how convenient it is in work, but only after buying. Also, it will be useful to communicate on thematic forums, where specialists share their own experience, they will gladly give a good advice.

Knife do it yourself

Many professionals do not recognize the purchase tool and prefer to work by those who have manufactured them. It makes sense in this, because each knife, each chisel is perfectly adjusted under the hand of the wizard. Such a tool is convenient to work, the hand does not get tired, easy to control the pressure.

This is a reasonable approach. Having experience with metal and good steel, you can do the manufacture of a universal Bogorodsky knife for a wood thread or a knife-toporic. To do this, you can use a broken web from a mechanical hacksaw 2 mm thick. From the tool is quite powerful electric sharpened.

The blank is transferred to the outlines of the blade and carefully processed it along the contour. In the process of operation, the workpiece must be occurring periodically, it is dipped into a tank with water.

A person who is familiar with woodworking, make a handle will not be much difficulty. The perfect handle can be made in the cast, obtained from plasticine, clamped in hand. The wooden bar of the appropriate size is placed, clamping into vice. With the help of a hacksaw (it is better to use the cutting of metal) delete unnecessary. For final finishing, the rashpil and sandpaper are used.

This work is very interesting both in technical, and in creative, Rotchitsky plan. Of course, the handle should be used for its intended purpose. If you decorate the kitchen or your room in a traditional Russian folk style, the door handle will organically fit into the interior. It is not excluded, and the door can be stylized under the old days. How? So think. As long as the handle will take (Fig. 134, a).

It consists of six parts that are connected by round pins. There is no two details in the picture, so we will have to turn to the drawing, which weight will explain.

The drawing (Fig. 184, b) shows the main, or, as they say, the overall, the size of the penny, as well as the details: 1 - the base; 2 - intermediate lumps (2 pcs.); 3 - Cubes (2 pcs.); 4 - bar.

Of course, you first need to make all the details (Fig. 185), adjust them to each other, pollut, but do not glue. It is more convenient to work - carry out marking and perform threads - on separate details. Let's start with the base.

1. Base. For its manufacture, it is necessary to prepare a plate with dimensions of 360 x 90 x 20 mm (this can be seen in the drawing), on the template, perform the markup of four semiwesight and corners.

After that, cut the angles, cut down the semi-rapid fuel. If you still have no jigsaw, then you can do as shown in Fig. 185, a, b. First make two cuts, and then process a semicircular file.

2. Intermediate lumps. These two parts have a square cross section 20 x 20 mm, a length is 60 mm. Through the longitudinal axis, the through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled (Fig. 186), where the wooden braids will be inserted, with which you connect the individual parts into the product - the handle. (Production of napillates is described in Lesson 8.)

3. Cubes. There are two of them. Let me remind you that the size of the cube is one. Here - 40 mm. This means that the length, width and thickness - 40 mm (Fig. 187). For the manufacture of cubes, you first need to shoot a bar on which two cubes will be placed. When choosing a workpiece, keep in mind that there are deviations when cutting. Consequently, the billet should be significantly more than 80 mm. It is enough if the bar is 100 mm long.

In this detail, you will also need to drill two holes in a depth of 20 mm. They will be located along the vertical and horizontal axis. Hole diameter - 8 mm. You have already guessed that they will come with brazen.

4. Lever It is a bar, in the cross section of which a square of 30 x 30 mm. Length 150 mm. With both ends, the holes are drilled with a diameter, as in other details, 8 mm. The depth of the opening is 20 mm.

Only when all the details are made and collected in the product, disassemble it and take it for the thread.

Start with the main part - grounds. The template shows a drawing with new elements - crosses located inside the leaf.

As the leaf is placed, you know from lesson 7. For the marking of the cross, first depict the square, as shown in Fig, 188, and, and then on the square, perform small triangles.

Cutting Start with the Pallows (points are shown in Fig. 188. b), after which every half of the leaf cut out as usually the "pyramid" is being cut.

To get a cross, a knife is carefully pinched the vertices of triangles, as when the "scrapping" squint. Then cut down. Similarly, the crosses are performed on cubes. By the way, there are drawings on three sides.

Several other crosses on intermediate brooms (Fig. 189), and they, I think you can easily do without my explanation.

Very interesting, the original is the handle. Despite the fact that there is no intricate drawing on it, it organically fits into the overall composition.

The carving on the handle is performed from four sides. Its markup is shown on the template, but, performing oblique lines, try not to disturb the specified angle, otherwise the lines moving from the surface to the surface may not coincide.

The middle line on the template is the line of the slit, the depth of which should be 4-5 mm, and the side lines are the lines for which the trimming will go. In principle, this is "straw."

When performing all the threads, you can assemble as shown in Fig. 190.

Do not forget that glue must be missed not only braided, but also the surface of the holes where those will be included. For gluing, use PVA glue, after finishing, screw the handle to the door of your room.

If you do not want to stop there and your thought is persecuted: "What else would you do useful for the house?" - Do not lose the gift of time and proceed to the next lesson.

Notch, whole, mesh, shirt, scots, scales, skin shark - titles a lot, meaning one: applying a geometric microrelief on strictly defined areas (as a rule, it is a cable and neck) surface of a rifle bed. Appearing exclusively with a utilitarian goal, namely, the convenience of holding a gun, gradually notch began to wear and decorative-aesthetic load. From the second half of the 19th century, most of the most self-respecting masters and did not think to make rifles without a neatly fulfilled notch. The angle of convergence of threads was changed, the angle of the pyramids themselves, the form of the contour, the configuration of the feeding of the fobtling notch. The masters sought to give it characteristic, individual only for a particular workshop of the trait. Therefore, it is not difficult to distinguish the original notch from the subjugal or, even more so, sliced \u200b\u200bagain. A rather time-consuming manufacturing process began to mechanize as much as possible. First, with the help of three-, four-, and even six-seater incisors. On the products of our factories you can see the stamping of hot "files" - press forms. With the help of "machines" - the likeness of the borders with flexible sleeves and a pair of cutters gear in the tip. Then the copy-milling machines came to the rescue. Now it is no longer done without a laser. So to speak: with a smoke for one and a half minutes. But on the "high" guns, still there should be a notch of handmade.

Closer to our realities: what to do if everything is preserved on the gun but this mesh itself. Or on the newly acquired butt, it is not at all. Yes, you must either pay the master, or just take and cut it yourself. Do not burn the gods.

Of course, without a special tool it will be extremely difficult. And here there are two options: order imported (photo 1 and 2),
But not cheap or, correctly, take and make it yourself. I have long walked around homemade "bass" who do as needed with one or another step. Ideal for the manufacture of such a cutter, lost by the former delete, the Soviet feet of the square section. And better two at once. Just in case. So: He heats up the gase, to make a metal leave (photo 3).
I fog in the vice around the mandrel with a radius knowingly smaller than then it will be necessary (photo 4).
The triangular supefylene is cut through the central groove and decorate the profile of the comb. Then there is a good knife, on the same mandrel, the teeth of the future jacket with the necessary depth and step (photo 5). Of course, formed after such a procedure of burrs on the side edges of the teeth, it is necessary to remove velvet supphyl. Now it remains to break the cutter to the desired radius and harden (photo 6).
I embrace handle and that's it. You can proceed to work.

I pay great attention to the lighting of the workplace during the manufacture of notches. It is more convenient for me to work when the lamp is at an altitude of 10-13cm above the table. In this case, the contrast light that goes on the right and in front, better highlights all the nuances, irregularities of notches.

I make a transparent template forms of the future notch, so that on both sides of the butt it was the same. Drawing the contour on the tree and nano intersecting master lines (photo 7).
The angle of intersection is most often 50-55 degrees. For the convenience of further cutting, I try to orient the threads of the notch so that the main direction of the wood fibers was parallel to the bisector of the angle of their intersection.

Next, I make a markup with a markup (photo 8).
So that in the future the cutter or the feet does not "fly" further cut into the contour, deepen the ending of the thread (5-7mm) with the help of the Stychel (photo 9).
If the step is selected large, you can accelerate the cutting process (lifting pyramids per full profile) with the help of large triangular noodles (60 degrees) section (photo 10).
If the wood is not very strong and there is a fear that a notch will not "hold" you can finish a square supphyl (90 degrees). After receiving, thereby, the pyramids of the combined profile 60 + 90 degrees.

It is possible to cut through the full profile and with the help of the Bassochka itself, it will come out a little slower. Leaving a notch in this form, after impregnation, we get a dark mesh. Because the matte face of the pyramids absorb more oil, and during operation and more dirt. To get a "transparent" notch, you have to go through the threads of a barishment nadfyl or a shine, at the same time aligning the lines (photo 11).
It seems anything difficult and notch is ready (photo 12).

And a few words about fashionable now "Fish Schee". For its manufacture, it will be necessary: \u200b\u200bbutt, patience, two cutters and toothbrush. The cutters will have to do, because I have not met such on sale. If you do "Czech" with the help of a borders, as is customary abroad, we get noise, dust, and intrusive large size. So, the cutters (photo 13)
I make from semicircular rocks. At the first cutter, it is necessary to release the angles, its radius and will set the form of the "scales" themselves, and the corners will cut through the wood along the edges of the deeper. The second, cutting, is made on the contrary, with a protruding central cluster. Now it remains, by spending one single initial direct master line, fill the entire contour (photo 14) by the slender rows of "scales".
And after trimming too much between scales (photo 15),
Clean the toothbrush. And if you wish to subsend and push. Probably there are other ways of making "fish scales", I stopped on this. It takes all this time in two or three times less than a good classic. (Photo 16).
In the next article, let's talk about curvators around the weapon walnut. And maybe about materials that are not inferior to him, but not deservedly entered into the background.

Pass alik 06-06-2013 20:40

Here I went to leave almost all summer and lay out full). Push someone temko
so that the rest of the pictures are in the same place. It is also interesting that people are interested in seeing the future, as if a survey is here, if you can ...

Uchenich-OK. 06-06-2013 20:50

Raised the topic, handle with an eagle is very beautiful

Pass alik 06-06-2013 20:57

Uchenich-ok, thanks.

f42SD. 06-06-2013 21:11

appecot. What time is it going to handle on average?

Pass alik 06-06-2013 21:16

qUOTE: appecot. What time is it going to handle on average?

Thank you, but no longer need, and then the topic will be demolished)))
Time in different ways was urgently done per day, but after 2 days was like a salty cucumber, green and groin is not very fresh. I post for several days, I post for several months, if not an order. For a week I take a job so that not Hurry.

Kerogen. 06-06-2013 22:11

Beauty! With Indian, I liked the most.

alex-wolff. 06-06-2013 22:21

qUOTE: Originally Posted by Pass Alik:

I also wonder what people are interested in seeing the future

The people are interested in free of charge as possible, and cheaper to the Croyanyak.
The carving is cool, but for such a handle, the blade is asked to pick up ..... By the way, the trouble of many cutters who are trying to make knives with other people's blades, the eternal nonsense, the blade with the handle, ... fluttering the beauty of the thread, forget about the integrity of the subject. .... according to good, it would be necessary to put the blade not to the finished handle, and invent the carving ..... so think ..... and the carving is good, but only the shape of the handle-not for knives, ... purely IMHO.

borisa. 07-06-2013 12:09

Carving Supur !!! Regarding blades I agree with Alex-Wolff

froghunter. 07-06-2013 12:30

Only harsh duct (on 4 photos) - probably seen meteorite ...
Indian turned out perfectly ... well, three eagles - in that topic

poxer. 07-06-2013 03:56

qUOTE: Originally posted by alex-wolff:

but only the shape of the handle is not for knives

You probably wanted to say "not for work knives"? For office and ponovoy-desktops, the most that neither is in the line and the Indians are always interesting (Westerns from childhood, books F.KUPER) is me already to the topicsstarter ...

Joch. 07-06-2013 06:04

Carving super! And the blades can still pick up, I think it will not be so problematic.

alex-wolff. 07-06-2013 10:27

qUOTE: Originally posted by poxer:

You probably wanted to say "not for work knives"?

What is not for the workers, it is also clear, meaning the shape of the handle themselves, I'm afraid to live in the creator with a sharp word, but really this is a domestic chamber, ... too much relief and jets on the one hand, and a bare bolt of horns with another, prepared spacers, so In general, it is not in the subject .... And if we assume the same Indian, you can still come up to the knife somewhere, then frogs and whether the eagle is already not fulfilled the task ....
this is not a handle to the Finnish blade to stick to the Finnish blade.
Frankly, I sometimes sorry that cutters with excellent creative potential take to make knives, and about carved blanks of knives for knives and suppressed. In any knob, the blade is primary, and if this idea goes to the background, then according to any harmonious work even if it is desktop, you will not see.

qUOTE: Originally Posted by Joch:

And the blades can still pick up, I think it will not be so problematic.

what would get at the exit of uzhosnas, then yes .... not a problem. Only the thread (the work of the cutter) in this case is a pity.

Tench. 07-06-2013 10:48

also the frog liked ...

Shukher 07-06-2013 14:06

qUOTE: Originally Posted by FROGHUNTER:

Frightened! Flags are our FSE!

+ Everything! Thread achumeae!

grafolog 07-06-2013 16:52

qUOTE: Push someone temko

I saw the topic in the morning, I wondered immediately such a rood (two in one and Bowie, and the processed turned first time)

Pass alik 07-06-2013 18:51

Thanks for the assessment, praise and criticism. Of course, in the Knife, the main character, but I make a handle so that the person himself could put a wedge without much difficulty (therefore, the guide holes drill and porous horns use in difficult works). And to pick up the blade to the handle or the opposite is always a person decides for himself by his money. This is the best indicator now here you can do work to the folds, which is also interesting, as experience. From the winter, if everything remains in force, I am going to the students to Hamzat (Kuznets) and then hold on)))

qUOTE: such a roe met

A good rozkin is enough for 2 handles if with spacers.

Sergey Subworko 07-06-2013 20:13

The carving really liked, skillfully cut off! If there are also forged blades, then it will be superior. But the opposite side of the moon, it is necessary to start in the case.

bOGEZE. 07-06-2013 20:29

qUOTE: i go to the students to Hamzat (Kuznets) and then hold on)))

Yes, from such a creative union workshop will only benefit ...- success

Aspis 07-06-2013 20:38

Beautiful work. Indian really liked.
To bookmarks!!! And success in creativity!

Perlamur. 07-06-2013 21:22

It seems to me that there will be small pieces of resumes in demand, to incur in the handle it was possible or in the sheath insert ...
At the same time and the dies are for the folders.

Pass alik 07-06-2013 21:56

Thanks for the wishes, all mutually. I put the lining on the sheath
But not big inserts in the handle ... you can try.
Titanium overlays with snakes, one more finish and put up, before leaving.

In this article, step by step, I will introduce you to the arts of the thread on the knife handle - on the example of this geometric pattern which will continue even a newcomer.

Step one.

First of all, it is necessary to give the handle itself a certain size and shape, as well as attach the source material to the blade, in order to compare the sizes, after which it thoroughly finish the edge of the edge. However, it is not necessary to fix the handle "tightly" until you fully completed engraving and have not been satisfied with the result.

In my opinion, the carving on the handle is performed great if the screws are not visible on it. However, if they are not able to hide, you can make them part of the handle design. I will try to teach you a thread that will help hide the screws. Remember: The screws must be installed in the thick place on the handle - which is formed after the thread. It does not give you anxiety, because thanks to the design of handles, you will always know about the exact finding of the screws.

Step second.

Take a pencil and draw thin line strokes for threads. Despite the fact that the design layout proposed by me is simple enough, I am absolutely sure that you have to redraw it twice or three times before achieving the ideal. After that, you will need to celebrate these lines in a bitter color, because during work they may accidentally get away.

Step Three.

Start cut! Start with the borderline line, I always start just like that. Then, on the layout of this design, it is necessary to cut the middle circle.

In order to cut the aforementioned lines, I use a direct cone-shaped brown with a flat tip. Use the Burue tip only to make excuses. During the thread, be sure to keep the product at an angle to clearly see the lines that you want to cut.

Do not attempt to immediately cut long continuous lines, as they can get curves. Cut the lines with short rapid movements, but do not try to cut too deep. Do not hurry and you will definitely succeed in thread! Remember, if you once spoil the material, it will be impossible to correct anything.

When you cut the borderline lines and a central circle, you can start their smoothing. Depending on which material is processed, I use a small triangular supphyl or scraper.

In other training articles on this topic, I did not affect the use of various tools. In order to perform the work qualitatively, I can make changes to any tool. However, in this case, there is no need to make fundamental changes in the tools. It will be enough, for example, make the tip of your triangular noodle direct and sharp. It will be especially useful when you straighten the carved lines, or to give recess to the same depth.

So, all lines are smoothed and now you can safely cut lines emanating from the central circle. I again remind you that you are not in a hurrying with cutting long continuous lines, on the contrary - you should cut the lines with rapid and rippled movements. Then use the converted supphyl to smooth the lines and give recesses the same depth.

Step fourth.

Now that the main lines are already cut out, and you have to give the shape and round down each fragment of the pattern. Start processing the angles of each fragment of the aforementioned cone-shaped brown. Be careful and do not hurt the rest of the important lines of the drawing!

Pitch fifth.

Now, after you designated rounded sketches of each pattern of the pattern, you can proceed to cut out a common background. Take a small rounded bur, suitable in size to the reverse plan and start getting rid of the excess material. Make sure that the depth of the rear plan is uniform.

Thus, you need to cut at a speed of 5,600 revolutions per minute. However, if your tool works at other speeds, for example, 30000 revolutions per minute, it's time to use it! He will give you the opportunity to better control the process of working on the background.

Step six.

Congratulations, the process of cutting over the material is completed and now it's the time "breathe life" in the product. As already noted, each fragment of the cut drawing should be absolutely even, and now it's time to make it convex.

I cut out this drawing long enough and performed each described step using a machine operating at a speed of 30,000 revolutions per minute. However, if you first want to try yourself in a thread, I advise you to use the supfil with a flat tip. Most of the beginners immediately begin work using high-speed equipment, and that is why "climb" to the drawing and spoil the entire work done. In order to carefully treat the angles and give the figure by a convex form, use the tool less speed. After you do it, handle the drawing emery paper.

If you wish, you can also cut out without a convex pattern, but inverse to it - in the same style. In this case, you will need to take advantage of a small rounded brown to vouch to them in the center of a concave form.

Contouring and cleaning tips.

The lady's nail file can be indispensable for protrusion and cleaning. It is very solid and can give the desired shape of the product in hard-to-reach corners. It is especially good. It acts on ivory, bones and trees.

In order to give the figure, various forms can be used by various tools, cutting material of various shapes and sizes, as well as use the piece of self-adhesive sandpaper. Emery paper is different grain and suitable for both grinding and cleaning products.

And here is another advice: use the Diamond Drive as Nadfil. You can also use your boots as nadfils by installing them in a small handle or a sharpman, which gives you the opportunity to have at hand hand tool The right shape and graininess. This Council is useful for threads on any surface.

Final step.

At the last stage, it is necessary to clean the surface from traces and scratches. If you wish, you can texture background handles. Use the buffer with a soft surface and polish the product - everything, it is ready!

Fantasize!

The designer drawing presented to your attention is ideal for people who have a very modest experience in artistic art. Despite the fact that I call this drawing "simple" on the technique of cutting, it does not mean that you need to get out of the skin in order to copy it. I meant that this drawing is much easier to cut, rather than another intricate, for example, nude girl.

This modest pattern can be complicated and decorated. different ways To your taste. Fantasize! You can decorate the handle with the help of garard, ripples and lining.

Do not be discouraged if your first product is rustic, over time you will be able to improve your skills and create more refined carved work in the future.

I teach cutting machinery and start learning from learning the simplest geometric drawings . Over time, we study more complex techniques and apply the knowledge gained in practice. Give yourself a chance, I am sure that you will succeed!

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The very first wooden handle was an ordinary stick, to the front end of which our distant Palk, at one time or another, attached sharp, first stone, then metallic. And the very first problem inserting in front of this gunsmith is the problem of ensuring the strength of the combination of heterogeneous materials. History shows that, even not knowing the conversion and not having an epoxy resin at hand, our forefathers coped perfectly with the task, using no worst natural components. Here we are flint with a wooden handle, wrapped with something like straw or thin lianas.

Such knives in that era were an innumerable set, but in general, the units have reached us, so that the photo is presented, most likely reconstruction. The method of fastening the blade is not visible at e straw, but it is simple and reliable, being tested for many and many centuries: the stone plate was inserted into a wooden bar (sometimes on the resin) and was fixed by winding from the intestine. Screwed in the raw state, they, when dried, tightly grab the details and are not inclined to loosening. Instead of a tree, the bone could be used, but about it below.

Similarly, modern masters are received, complementing the piece of iron with a frequency piece of wood. True, they do not use the guts by giving preference to synthetic adhesives or rivets, and in vain - such a winding created a magnificent transition zone,

frozen efforts and a protective front end handle from splitting, and fingers - from random cuts when scaling forward. This style is very loved by the gunsmiths of the Nordic countries - Sweden, Norway, Finland.

Thus, a Japanese knife donated to me was mounted on the fish's fish, but then I reddished him, replacing the birch handle juniper and adding a tie ring.

Pay attention to the last detail: this is an important element of the handle of this type, because without it the tree is sooner or later cracks. With all its positive qualities, any wood is easily ourselves along the fibers, so no fortified handle will live a short life. In order to avoid such trouble, the tree is enhanced by metal. It can be rings or short sleeves (caps) stuffed on the ends. In addition to the rest, the combination of two heterogeneous materials, emphasizing and shadowing each other, creates an excellent, balanced harmony.

If the shank passes through the entire handle, it significantly increases the strength of the design and allows you to mount heavy heads of a complex and convenient form. Here, the tree has the form of a thick-walled tube, gritable between two enough massive

metal parts, usually brass or bronze. Application

Such a structure has an American tall stilette of the beginning of the 20th century, but, of course, in this case there is no speech about any beauty, but the durability and convenience fully ensure the range of tasks of this, more than the deadly, weapons.

Another, perhaps the most common way to install the handle is the fastening of the side linings to the shank plate. This is done in two ways - with rivets or screws with nuts. Of course, the first one is easier, but threaded connection Allows disassembly, cleaning and lubrication of weapons. This is important, since it is under the "cheeks" corrosion eating steel especially fiercely. On the screws gathered the absolute majority of bayonets to small arms.

Now in the course of cast plastic handles, in which the question of corrosion and disassembly was resolved once and for all, as well as many other technological and operational problems.

color alloys are due to the need to get rid of corrosion,

yes, and more beautiful.

Rivets found a refuge among countless rati kitchen knife not claiming exquisite beauty, as well as among hunting and universal products, where a solid blade plate forms at the same time and the handle. In the past, this installation is rarely found because

good metal There was roads. Sometimes the shank is generally welded

(Of course, for an forging way) to the rear section of the blade, so as not to spend in vain valuable steel. Now the blades are simply cut down by the stamp of the sheet of the desired thickness. But it turns out strong, durable, but, in our opinion, is unnecessarily heavy.

At the same time, there is a long time a weapon family, for whose representatives, large and often jewelry rivets are a kind of clan feature, a mandatory and traditional element. We are talking about the classic Kinzhalah Bebut and Kama, as well as about the great set of similar products that have taken this simple, reliable and practical type of handle. The Tabel Soldier's Bebut presented below gives a complete picture of the conversation.

These curves of massive daggers of the excellent steel were equipped with Russian artillery times of the First World War. The rivets themselves are steel, and their semicircular heads, like the front fastening clip, is from brass. Direct daggers of Kama, which the Lichy Highlanders stabbed a variety of real men as their own and all other religions, have accuracy such handles. They can be slightly different with proportions, material (bone, horn, silver.), Luxury dressing, but the style is unchanged, confirming the consistency in thousands and thousands of bloody fights. By the way, the external Abris of the lining accurately repeats the shape of the shank, so the question of the destruction of the handle simply does not make sense - the hand actually covers the continuation of the blade, decorated for ease of wood or something else. High rivets at the same time serve as good palm sliding limiters.

Of course, every little valuable knife requires decoration, and the wooden handle provides an artist an extensive field of activity. As a rule, under the thread there is a dense, solid wood of local (Samshet, Maple, Dogwood, apple tree, pear, juniper, tes) or tropical (black, red, pink, lemon tree) rocks. Here is a traditional Scottish knife with a curly handle.

Modern masters specializing in exclusive weapons are creating genuine masterpieces of jewelry arts, amazing on the subtleties to study parts and slightness of the composition. We will not give examples of their creativity - open any of the numerous magazines dedicated to the author's knives, and enjoy the spectacle of the carved handle in all their infinite diversity.

And again about Japan: It should be noted that the islanders with the tag peculiar to them, which is erected into the rank of standalone, from time immemorial estimated and tirelessly used the natural beauty of the tree in the manufacture of handles and cold weapons. At the same time, his long species (swords) had braided handlers and lacquer sheaths, but a variety of mounted in the style of Haykuti (that is, without Garda), most often were as if a single wooden bar with a thin seam by a connector, sometimes fortified almost not protruding Cut the ring.

A simple handle of oval section is extremely convenient and practical, and the whole knife is freely and unnoticed by the belt, in the sleeve, in the folds of clothing and so on. Truly, the proven in centuries does not need our peres.

It remains to say a few words about handles from unusual, rare or

exotic Wood breeds.

Of course, an extensive family of folding knives has long been brought to a tree as a material for handles. At the same time, the same assembly principles are used - solid handles (simple and reinforced by robes) or side linings from solid and values. Clear, pine or aspen did not gain popularity on this Niva.

To a certain extent to the Wooden includes a typical handle from Berestov, who received extraordinary popularity in recent times in view of a number of wonderful qualities: they are lightweight, strong enough, non-slip, very beautiful, "warm" and somehow especially nice to the touch.

It is also worth mentioning about the decoration technique. wooden handles All copper, brass, silver and even golden wires rolled out in the rollers so that it acquires the type of thin stripes, which and drives into the pre-cutting grooves. This type of work is possible only on soft, but dense wood, so in most cases a nut is used. The flowing curls of the plant ornament sometimes cover the entire surface, sometimes its part, but it is always beautiful.

For example, the above mentioned Tis and Juniper mentioned above:

in addition to thick red-brown, high density and strength, they have a persistent, extremely pleasant coniferous smell, almost not weakening over the years.

From tropical rocks should be mentioned Brazilian pink tree, literally flooded the world today. From its solid, handles are made of handles not only expensive knives, but also simple kitchens. Go to the first oncoming tray on the market, from which they trade knives, and you will see a whole scratch of these solid-caliber products - an attractive, but the nightmail of the cutting of equatorial forests.

Of course, no one has given the right answer, because it is a grape vine. This is an injured liana has an interesting structure that resembles tightly compressed hair. It gives an impressive (approximately twice) Shrinking during drying, but it becomes solid and taking a good polishing. To reveal the texture, the finished handle should be soaked with linen oil, but especially loose places - epoxy resin, followed by grinding and polishing.

Karelian birch will not surprise anyone, but nevertheless she was and remains one of the best materials for the handles of both gift and well-working knives. No wonder the Finnish masters prefer it to all other rocks.

A similar texture has wood so-called caps (growths) on the trunks of the same birch, ash, oak, poplar, etc. for some reason, it is especially inclined to form a cabin that is a clear - take a walk around the city and look around.

Finally, from the point of view of lightness and "warmth", the first place occupy handles from the traffic jam. Usually, they equip knives for fishermen, so that the subject has not soldered into the water at the bottom. True, the blade for this should also be easy.

Summary: wooden handles are among the most preferred, in terms of convenience and aesthetics. Their range is infinite - from an imperious bar to the finest carved lace with genre miniatures and other ornaments. A natural tree, not "improved" with lacquer coatings, almost perfectly merges with the skin of the palm, does not slip and does not show it in the frost, although it is exposed to wetting, changing in the amount (swelling). Impregnation with vegetable oils partly removes this problem.

If the knife is not intended for everyday work in natural conditions, it is logical to cover the handle with a mirror varnish or polish it to shine using, say, paraffin. The tree will become slippery, but elegant.

Particularly dense wood is easy to olive small emery paper just like that without any coatings, but over time, from contact with wet hands, the surface can hang out. The above-mentioned impregnation with dry vegetable oils amazingly reveals the depth of the texture and enhances the color (especially red breeds), only for this, the lubricated handle should be withstanding for several days under direct sunlight.

It is preferable to use linseed oil, as it is relatively

dries quickly and gives a solid film - unlike sunflower,

the film of which remains elastic.