Perfectionist you can not be, but hide the gaps in the bathroom. Let yourself rephrase the famous Nekrasovskiy "verses" for visual illustration simple, but a little thought: ugly cracks are often formed at the junction of the bath and walls, which not only spoil the general appearance, but also allow water to drain down, thereby causing much more serious trouble . How to close the gap between the bathroom and the wall? In today's material, we will analyze 5 options for solving the problem and visualize each of these photos from life.

WHY I need to seal joints

Imagine that you went to the bathroom after repair and pickyly inspect every centimeter. What do you think, first of all, will your opinion fall? Of course, on the bath itself, recently mounted by experts. And after the snow-white coating, you will discover with disappointment that the distance from the wall to its edge is ugly empty. This will be the first moment of your natural disappointment.




The second will come when the first time we use the bathroom for its intended purpose. And discover how water literally strives to leak into the recently discovered junction. The consequences of such a repair gap have not only a cosmetic aspect: water flowing on the floor can spoil the coating, provoke the appearance of fungus or mold.


You need it?


The slots most often arise due to the disproportion of the length of the bath and the wall part, to which it is adjacent. It is possible to provide such a "jamb" at the repair stage:

• bought a bath of the desired length;
• having installed an additional plasterboard partition.

However, people often pay attention to such trifles during repair work - the head of others is scored. And in the end, after you have to break your head over the correction of the problem. Another similar headache is pipes mounted outside the walls. You can read about how to cope with this problem in the article: "How to hide pipes in the bathroom without mounting into the wall."

Using cement mortar

• cheap universal option;
• needs additional processing for better visual reflection;
• reliable, but not durable fixation.

Probably the first thing that comes to mind when the need arises to close the appearance of the gap between the bathroom and the nearest wall. Not always the first option is so bad, as they say about him. In favor of using a cement solution, there is a low price, reliability; Against - the need to additionally process joints for a more or less normal decorative effect. This is how it looks in a dry algorithm of actions:

1. clean the joint from all superfluous: dirt, dust, etc;
2. process the desired area on the wall of the primer for better interaction with cement mortar;
3. we prepare the solution itself, we make it in moderation thick;
4. close up with rags with rags pre-impregnated with prepared solution;
5. after they are dried, we apply the solution directly along the entire length of the slit;
6. as a means of disguise, you can choose fragments of ceramic tiles, mosaic or just paint the seam.

Good advice: If there is such an opportunity, then use the same coating as on the wall to obtain a bright decorative effect. Especially just performing this condition if you have a facing tile. Buy some extra tiles - they will use you for sure, we assure you! Such focuses can be done in cases where you used other options for wall decoration in the bathroom.

Apply the mounting foam

• a good option for climbing even the widest gap between the bathroom and the wall;
• only species with increased moisture resistance are suitable;
• robust fixation, protection against mold.

Pay attention to the composition of the mounting foam before purchase: very good if it is made on the basis of polyurethane. The index of moisture resistance is also more than important - from this directly depends on the durability of the design you created. The whole procedure is below:

1. well clean the work surface and degrease it;
2. protect your hands with gloves;
3. thoroughly shake the cylinder, direct in the gap and start cleaning carefully;
4. try to do not shake the cylinder - the foam that fell on unnecessary places will later have to shake with effort;
5. after the joke turned out to be fully embellished, with the help of a knife cut all the irregularities to get a perfectly smooth and beautiful butt.

The final processing here will not surprise the originality: you can paint into the tone with the walls, lay a tile from a similar collection.

Another option - silicone sealant

• it is necessary to choose the optimal in terms of moisture resistance and sensitivity of the sealant;
• it is best to use in a bundle with a plunger gun, allowing you to confidently control the whole process;
• used in cases of gap no more than 5 mm.

After the sealant is selected and inserted into the gun, proceed to direct work:

1. decrease the location of the gap between the bathroom and the wall and dry carefully;
2. cut the nose of the tube at a certain angle, the sharper the angle - the thicker will be the layer;
3. apply along the entire length of the bathroom and wall sealant;
4. moisten a finger in water diluted with soap, and walk throughout the seam, evenly indigeting the sealant inside;
5. apply another layer and repeat the pressure procedure.

If everything is done correctly, you will be able to close the slit in such a way that it will be difficult to notice even what you used.




Bonus. Detailed video instructions

Ceramic plinths - a beautiful solution

• the ideal option, if the tile is laid on the wall;
• attractive view;
• reliable protection against the flow;
• durability.

Recently, this option is particularly popular with those owners, which faced the problem of the slot between the wall and the bathroom. A better effect can be achieved in conjunction with sealant and cement mortar. But first things first:

1. traditionally prepare the junction zone with the wall, clean from dust, degrease;
2. close up of cracking with cement mortar;
3. we put the ceramic plinth;
4. i rub the seams with white sealant (under the color of the bath).

Many owners argue that it is quite possible to do without a cement mortar, eliminating the gap between the bathroom and the wall of the same sealant. Like, just as reliable. You can only check the right of their words on our own bath or follow our slightly more complex, but still quite a simple and intelligible algorithm.

Border tape - final barcode

• practical option for the finishing of silicone seam or joint processing after mounting foam;
• does not require additional processing;
• high moisture resistance;
• dISTRIBUTY.

This decision will allow you to quickly and beautifully close the gap, having achieved a magnificent visual effect. Used only after you have already been treated with silicone or mounting foam. Pay attention to the correct sequence.

There is often a problem when the installation of the bathroom remains slots that can bring not only trouble, but also an embezzlement of their own funds due to water flow below. If it is tightly not to isolate the gap, then fungi may arise, mold, which can affect human health.

To eliminate all troubles, special waterproof materials will serve that need to choose correctly, depending on the width and length of the gap. However, the choice of material is very important, it will affect not only the aesthetics of the bathroom, but also on the service life of the wall, gender.

Clearance, space, gap, hole, opening need to be deprived, they may occur when:

• Irregularity of the wall;
• Incorrect installation;
• Adjusting the bathroom;
• Incorrectly selected bathroom bathroom;
• When the bathroom is shorter;
• Overlook the floor.

All this has a number of inconveniences that need to be eliminated immediately. The main thing is to close the distance, and it is directly dependent on the seam.

The gap that comes up to 3 cm can be eliminated using sealant, silicone, solutions, grouting mixtures, resulting in a durable and durable seam resistant to moisture.

If the seams or gap from 3 cm and more, then it will simply be impossible, and it will take not only a border, but also a special design of PVC or moisture-resistant drywall.

High-quality insulation bath from the wall

Isolation, or otherwise sealed bath, from the wall is necessary, since the bathroom is constantly going to moisture that flows through the wall and can fall into the gaps of the bathroom, in which various fungi will begin to appear and with disputes of mold.

The fungus and mold affect the immunity of a person, suppressing him, the allergy begins to develop, which is sophisticated with a runny and permanent sneezing, the chronic diseases associated with the respiratory and skin organs are sharpened, as there is a contact with water that fell on mold and on the human body.

The only and right solution will be the immediate elimination of the gap, which will save health, nerves and money.

A variant of solving this problem is a cement solution:

1. It is the most universal, however, not the most beautiful.
2. The slots are closed with cement mortar up to 7 mm, if the slot is greater, then the cement will spill, leaving the dirt behind itself.
3. Before the gap to close the cement, clean it, dry and measure it.
4. Prepare the solution in the proportions indicated on the packaging of cement powder.
5. The consistency of the cooked solution should be like a thick sour cream.
6. If the slot is wider than 1 cm, then it is necessary to take the vehicle, to impregnate it with cement mortar and gently close the hole.
7. Give a little dry and stick to the walls of the bath and walls.
8. Then close all the cracks with cement mortar, trying not to drip on the bath and the wall.

This seal will not be very aesthetic, which will be required to subsequently close the plinth or plastic panel.

Another option is the mounting foam or seal, this is the fastest and most practical way. In order to close the crevices of the mounting foam, it is necessary to clean them from dirt, degrease and dry well. Try not to take the bathroom all day.

Before you start pouring the mounting foam of the gap, insulating the border of the bath and the wall from splashes with a molar ribbon, on the hands of the gloves. Remember that the mounting foam after drying is doubled that you do not need to try to fill the slot completely, leave intact edges. After the hour passed, you can carefully cut off sharp edges, and give a smooth surface.

The option serves as a silicone sealant or waterproof melt, which is the most versatile, it can be selected not only in color, but it is antibacterial, which prevents the development of mold and fungus.

For this you need:

1. Clean the gaps from dirt and mucus, degrease and dry.
2. Around the gap glue the molar tape in order not to stain the walls and the bathroom.
3. It is necessary to fill the gap selers smoothly, without interrupting and leaving the waves.
4. To make the seam to be smooth, you need to moisten your hands with liquid soap and fill it.
5. After the completion of the work, you can not use the bathroom during the day, as the moisture can be collapsed, and it will simply cut off.

If the initially installed bathroom was less than the length of the bathroom, and there was a large space left, then you can make an extension for the bathroom in the form of a shelf. For this, the plastic slope is suitable, thoroughly drunk along the size of the space from the wall to the bathroom. To attach a drunk slope, a sealant will be required.

So that the shelf served for more than one year, you need to clean the butt connections from dirt and mucus, degrease and dry, loss well sealant and glue.

The bathroom can not be used during the day for better contact sealant with the surface.

If the bathroom is not yet placed with tiles and there is a large open, you can build a metal frame that you can enclose moisture-resistant plasterboard. For the aesthetics of the room, plasterboard is placed tiles.

What to close the gap between the bathroom and the wall

Inexpensive and in modern way to close the gap, is the use of curb ribbons. The latter is mainly for the bathroom, chosen in width and colors.

By width, the border tape can be from 20 cm to 60 cm with a total length of 3.2 m.

A border ribbon has a number of advantages, it is resistance to intense moisture, high temperature, prevents the development of various fungi and mold on the surface, can disguise all irregularities.

In order to glue the curb correctly, it is necessary:

1. Measure the width and length of the gap between the wall and bathroom.
2. Clean the surface of the gap, the place of contact of the border and the edge of the bathroom from the dirt, degrease and dry dry.
3. Treat sealant for the bathroom gap, and let him dry. Cut the painting tape edge of the bath and walls in order to avoid enamel pollution and glue tiles.
4. Measure and cut off a piece of border so that the length is exceeded by 1.5 cm the length of the surface of the surface. On the base of the tape, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of liquid nails or sealant. After that, it is necessary to strongly press the border tape at the place of the bathroom with a wall. Remove the molar tape.
5. Give glued border ribbon to dry for 24 hours. Bathroom does not use.

Correctly compliance with all the requirements for gluing border tape guarantees the purity and durability of the coating, which does not proceed with time.

Remove the junction between the bathroom and the wall

When there is a gap between the bathroom and the wall of about 2 mm, the most practical option is the use of aquarium silicone, which will reliably protect the floor and walls from water and mold.

To do this, clean and degrease the gap and surface between the bathroom and the wall. Process with silicone gap in one pass. Wash the brush (for drawing) in the soap solution, and the silicone surface is processed in one direction to level it.

The composition must be given to dry about a day.

If the gap is more than 2 mm, it is perfectly suitable for the stitching of the head or cartel for the bathroom.

For this you need:

• Clear and degrease the joint;
• Measuring and cut off the quilt of the desired size;
• The ends of the cartel must be sprinkled at an angle of 45˚ and clean the sandpaper, for better contact with the surface;
• The inner surface of the cartel is covered with sealant or liquid nails and tightly press the bath gap with a wall;
• After the kallers stuck firmly, the aquarium silicone should be applied to the lower and upper adjoint, so that water and mold do not appear in the connection places;
• Pins for drawing to moisten with soap solution and to smoke the applied aquarium glue;
• Give dry.

If the slot is large, then it can be separated by tiles, which can be laid along the contour and edges of the bath on the tile glue. The joints can be lured with special mixtures. This finish will be perfectly combined with the interior.

The need for plinth between the bathroom and the wall

If it is decided to use the plinth to use the slot as sealing the slit, then it is necessary to determine the choice of size and the shape of the plinth.

The plinth should not go beyond the edges of the bathroom border, should be combined with a color gamut bathroom, the angles must coincide with the slope between the bathroom wall. Before close the slot of the plinth, it is necessary to be treated with sealant or liquid nails and wait for a coxy of 2 minutes, then bring it to the surface of the surface and tightly press for connecting the plinth.

The main advantage of the plinth is that depending on the sealant, it does not turn yellow over time.

How to smell a sealant bath (video)

You can also close the gap using the plastic panel. To eliminate leaks between the sink, you can use the sealant and plinth.

The easiest way to find out whether the sealant holds on the junctions between the shower cabin pallet or bathroom (metal or acrylic) with an adjacent wall (painted, ceramic, plastic), ask a question to the seller-consultant of the construction store. Do not allow yourself to deceive the proposal of the "universal" means for any gaps. Universal sealants suitable absolutely for everything, does not happen.

Vulcanized materials for joints are available:

• 1-nocomponential, suitable for use immediately;
• 2, 3 or more component, requiring a thorough phased accurate mixing.

Choose depending on the purpose and the desired result to facilitate surfaces. In ascending order of durability and quality, the list of "helpers" looks like this:

• acrylic;
• polysulfide (thiocol);
• urethane;
• siloxane, silicone - they are silicone.

The most common butt materials

Each of the above list works in its "niche" and in its way. For example, pure acrylic substances are not a place in the gap during water sealing. But modern suspensions of fillers in acrylic aqueous dispersion give excellent results thanks to the auxiliary substances.

Silicone possess a complete set of operational performance and meet all the requirements for sealing materials. They easily tolerate moisture, household chemicals and shampoos. Even without priming walls, there are excellent adhesion (international requirements ISO 10590, ISO 9047) i.e. The ability to bore materials among themselves. Their elastic-elastic properties are not terrible temperatures up to + 200 ºС.

Even in the summer heat, when in the room more than +30 ºС, through silicones it is possible to use bath sealing.

Select the sealant for joints and cracks

Get exhaustive recommendations on the applications and properties of building materials from sellers. The buyer has a full right to this, maybe they should take advantage. Read the characteristics of the brands in detail, it is desirable, not through oral assurances, but with the help of the manufacturer's documents.

You will do correctly if you become saving suspiciously low prices. Depending on the types of vulcanizing components, sealants may be neutral, such as alcohol, amine, amide, oxyma and acid. Sour is always cheaper.

And it seems that on such gaps it is easy to save. But keep in mind that suicide sealants are not always a place in the gap between the bathroom and the wall. In case the aluminum bath, and the wall is condensed from the cement-containing material, the durable adjoining will not happen. Acetic acid sealant will turn these substances into soluble salts.

For sealing and adhesive work in bathrooms, pools and shower, i.e. In rooms inherent in biologically aggressive media, choose sealants with antifungal (fungicidal) properties. Then molding formations in the junction will not be. Good applies to, for example, the products "General Electric - Bayer Silicones".

So, in order to know exactly what to shove and close the gap between the bathroom and the wall, enlist the following information:

• country of production and manufacturer (look for corporate original packaging);
• curing system (neutral or sour sealant);
• application area;
• curing time (minutes to lowlight and days to complete curing);
• silicone density (not lower than 1 g / cc.);
• possible permissible application and operation temperatures;
• shelf life.

Two types of materials

For the space between the metal bathroom and the sanitary room wall, not only the ability to withstand heating when the hot water crane is opened, which is demonstrated by silicones. When the bath and the wall are located at a distance of 5 mm, and the bath is unstable, then when pressed on its edge, the gap will have to increase. If the offset does not exceed 50%, then the slot between the bathroom and the wall can be chopped by any silicone sealant. It encourages the ability of the latter to one-time stretching by more than 1.5 times. In our example, the tension is uncritical to a distance of 5 mm × 1,5 \u003d 7.5 mm.

Good building materials with great opportunities are the sealants on an acrylic basis, for example, Russian Ruslux (Eurolux trademark). It is blunt and harden at temperatures from +18 ºС to +22 ºС in 1 hour. In stores there is an opportunity to purchase plastic buckets of 7 or 15 kg and subsequently close the "smeared" junction of 3-5 mm between wood, ceramics, metal and concrete, i.e. Between any surfaces in shower and bathrooms.

The main rules for embedding the gap "Ruslux"

Instruments:

• putty knife;
• manual or pneumatic pressure pistol.

Precautions:

• - Close the respiratory organs with a respirator;
• - Protect your eyes with points;
• - Use rubber gloves for hands.
• Work algorithm:
• - remove rapid and fragile old coatings;
• - rate the climate of the room (the temperature should be higher than +8 ºС, the relative humidity is below 75%);
• - Ensure that the surface of the adjoining is clean and dry;
• - Apply the sealant with a spatula or gun;
• - After 12-15 minutes, align the seams with a spatula, moistened in soap solution.

Sealing in wooden bathrooms

In order to adjoin the wooden row to the wooden wall, use a sealant based on acrylic latex and silicone. With this method, vapor permeability will be ensured, countering moisture and high temperature.

Enroll this:

• clean log walls from fat and dirt;
• in the inner space of the gap (to reduce the consumption of the sealant), place the foamed insulation;
• for aesthetic seam type, use greasy tape;
• form and lay the seam;
• if necessary, color seam after drying.

Sealing in baths

Applicator to help

For convenient sealing of hard-to-reach gaps, use devices called applicators 360. Their tips can rotate under any angles, which makes it possible to accurately and gently apply materials in cramped spaces and with insufficient access to the joints. There is the ability to fix in the traditional direct position to do everything as usual.

The tip is relevant when the bath seal is carried out in small rooms or the object is located very close to the floor or wall (for example, a low bidet). This method makes it possible to compact the joints without effort and with the optimal dosage.

Video instruction

In the process of repairing the bathroom sealing the joint between the plumbing and the wall, special attention should be paid. It is in the slot around the perimeter of the fonts fall on the spray. The area under the bathroom is practically not ventilated, so the puddles dry out badly, high humidity and mold appear. High-quality sealing of slots allows you to avoid these problems and prolongs the service life of the facing material.

What tasks solves bathroom sealing

Installation of the bathroom close to the wall is not possible for a number of reasons: the curvature of the floor or the walls themselves, the inconsistency of the plumbing dimensions of the bathroom. As a result, the gaps arise through which water will be seized during swimming. The absence of junction tightness can lead to negative consequences:

1. With active bathing or taking a soul spray through the slots fall on the floor. If the ones formed puddles are not wiped in a timely manner, the water will begin to leak on the lower floors and floods the neighbors.
2. The regular "flooding" of the bathroom significantly increases the humidity of the air, which provokes the appearance of mold on the walls, ceiling and field, as well as the development of pathogenic microorganisms.
3. Increased humidity negatively affects the decoration of the room - the seams between the tiles lose their aesthetics and darken. Even high-quality repair will not withstand the fatal impact of moisture and will be disretened for two or three years.

High-quality sealing of seams between the bathroom, shower, sink and wall is an important stage of repair, which cannot be neglected. Even the amator of the construction craft can cope with the work.

Methods for sealing the junction between the wall and the bathroom

Before sealing the bathroom, it is necessary to estimate the condition, the size of the slit, as well as the material of the adjoining surfaces. An important factor when choosing a method - the price of the question. The main thing is that the selected material meets the requirements of water and thermal resistance.

We will analyze in detail how to seal the junction between the bathroom and the wall are the most common and efficient methods.

Cementing of the gap - outdated method of processing joints

The "Dedovsky method" of sealing is the use of cement mixture. With the advent of modern building materials, its popularity decreased, but this method did not become less effective.

For work it is necessary to prepare:

• capacity for the kneading solution;
• sand;
• cement grade 400 or 500;
• plasticizer (clay or lime);
• water;
• plastering shovel;
• foam sponge or slices of a vet.

The order of the kneading solution:

1. Sand Connect with a plasticizer in a ratio of 4: 0.8 - if lime is used, 4: 0.5 - if clay.
2. To the dry mixture of sand and plasticizer add cement. The proportions of the components of the components: 4: 0.5 (sand / cement M400), 5: 1 (sand / cement M500).
3. Stir the composition before uniformity.
4. Gradually, adding water with small doses, knead the solution of the desired consistency.

Sealing technology:

1. Clean the bathroom side, removing all the construction trash, dirt or residue of the previous grout.
2. Under the gap to put the container, so that the cement solution does not flood the floor.
3. Cut the fabric on long segments, moisten them in the mixture and fill them with a slit.
4. The spatula is applied to the perimeter of the adjoint plumbing to the wall.
5. Surplus cement mix remove with a wet sponge.

After grapping the solution, the coating can be slightly polished and paint the oil paint.

Application of mounting foam: for and against

Experienced builders find the use of mounting foam when performing different repair tasks. Universal building material is used and as a sealant for the bathroom. Arguments in favor of such a decision:

• availability of material;
• simplicity of application;
• sufficient effectiveness.

Cons of the use of mounting foam:

• for work requires a special pistol;
• the method is suitable for sealing slots wide from 3 cm;
• the complexity of the removal of the mounting foam from the piston surfaces is tiles and a bathroom.

Important! To work in a wet room it is necessary to choose moisture-proof material. The optimal option is a single-component polyurethane foam.

Sealing the seam of the bath is performed in the following sequence:

1. Clean the adjacent joints and degrease the surface with alcohol or solvent.
2. Witch dry and stuck with a painted scotching bathing bath and a wall - it will prevent foam on them.
3. Bolon pre-hold in the warm room - it will increase the elasticity of the sealant.
4. Shake the bottle with foam.
5. Paste a balloon in a gun and flip upside down.
6. To put on the gloves and carefully, moving along the junction to squeeze the foam.
7. After drying, cut the surplus of foamed sealant.

Installation of plastic or ceramic plinth

Sealing bath corner - simple and "clean" method. The embezzlement looks neatly, and the curb is well coped with the task. There are two types of corners:

The order of installation of plastic self-adhesive plinth:

1. Cut the border of the desired size.
2. Clean the docking surfaces.
3. A little to warm the back side of the border to activate the adhesive composition, apply and tightly press the corner.
4. All visible seams fill out with a transparent silicone sealant.
5. From the ends of the plinth to install plastic plugs.

The technology of installation of a ceramic border resembles the process of laying tiles. The plinth is attached to the tile glue, and the seams close in moisture-resistant grout.

Sealing technology border ribbon

The sealing tape of the bathroom is available in different widths and in a variety of color solutions. When choosing a ribbon border, it is necessary to take into account that its width must at least 10 mm exceed the width of the gap. It is better not to save, and install a larger larger.

The sealer is glued according to the following technology:

1. Preparation of the surface: cleaning, degreasing and drying.
2. Cutting ribbons for three strips with an adhesive on the side elements of 1.5 cm.
3. Flexing a border along the length of the notes.
4. Press the self-keeper tape to the junction.

Tips for working with a ribbon border:

• synthetic material needs to be replaced every 2-3 years;
• after applying the tape it is undesirable to enjoy the bathroom for one day;
• it is better to give preference to products with anti-grapple impregnation.

Tile Stack Finishing

The popular and aesthetic attractive option is the closure of the docking gap with a tiled tile, selected in a single style with all the trim of the bathroom. The remains of the laying tile can be used, a decorative border from a single series with tiles or ceramics "on the contrast".

The method is universal, as suitable for sealing slots of different widths.

Sealing technique Tile bathroom:

1. If the width of the gap is 1-3 cm, then it is pre-filled with the mounting foam.
2. While the foam is freezing, you can cut the tile on the segments of the desired thickness.
3. Apply tile glue on foam and curb tile, attach tiles to the base.
4. As it laying between the elements it is necessary to set crossings that ensure the evenness of intercinecy seams.
5. After pouring the adhesion, fill the holes between the grout tiles.

If there is a large distance between the wall and the bathroom (more than 5 cm), then it is necessary to equip the design of moisture-resistant drywall or a kind of formwork. The framework of GLCs must be covered and lined with a liter, and the formwork is pouring the cement-sandy solution and lay the tile from above. As a result, a practical shelf must be turned out, tightly adjacent to the bathroom.

Filling the slit decorative grout

The method is less in demand than the above methods, as it allows you to high-qualityly sew the joints with a width of up to 5 mm. At the same time, the distance from the bath to the wall throughout the perimeter of the adjoining should remain almost the same - let's say the difference in 1 mm on the pattern. If this condition is neglected, the seam obtained will look uneven. In situations where the gap is over 5 mm, the technology is ineffective.

Additional restriction of the use of a fugue for sealing a slit - bath manufacture material. The method is admissible only for cast-iron plumbers, since models from acrylic and steel in the process of operation are prone to change their dimensions - under the influence of high temperatures, materials are increased in volume or settled at high loads. As a result, the grout starts to crack and depressurize the joint.

The advantages of using grout include:

• the decorative method - the decorated joint completely repeats the interlocking seams, creating a single perception of the interior of the bathroom;
• availability - for implementation, the remains of a molded fugue are used after the seam processing between the cafenel;
• simplicity and rate of application.

The processing process is to prepare the seam (cleaning / degreasing), the preparation of the caloring composition and rubbing the mixture into the slot. A day later, a fugue is being sacrificed.

Use of sealants: silicone and acrylic compositions

Water-resistant sealants are applied to sealing slots up to 15 mm wide. Silicone, acrylic or combined compositions are optimally suitable for operation. Most often in bathrooms use silicone sealants, but two other options are also allowed.

Choice nuances:

1. Silicone sealant is two types: neutral and acidic. The most suitable is a sanitary neutral subspecies. It contains anti-grab additives. Lack of neutral sealant - high cost. Acid has a sharp smell and can eliminate metallic surfaces.
2. When choosing an acrylic composition, it is necessary to pay attention to its water resistance. Waterproof sealant for plastic is suitable for work.
3. The recommended scope of application, the working temperature and shelf life must be indicated on the package.
4. The sealant is better to buy in the store, choose preferably products of popular brands: "Moment", "Titan", "Wepost", "Delta".

To apply sealant, it is necessary to prepare: a special pistol, a rubber spatula, a degreaser and a sponge.

The order of sealing seams with a bathroom sealant:

1. Clear and degrease the processed surfaces.
2. Leave a bath for half an hour on drying.
3. Prepare sealant: trim the bottle tip at an angle of 45 °, put on it a protective cap and put a balloon into a mounting gun.
4. Equally distribute the sealant.
5. Excess the material to remove the moisturized spatula.

1. Before working, the font should be filled with water and leave for 1-2 hours. Plumbing will give shrinkage that cut the cracking of the hermetic layer in the future.
2. Using cement mortar, it cannot be made to fall into the drain hole. The bottom of the bath is predetermined by polyethylene.
3. In practice, the combined method of sealing joints is often used. For example, a cement solution or a mounting foam above closes a decorative border.

To minimize the slots during the repair, it is necessary to level the walls and the floor. Errors in the slope of the wall leads to a plump of plumbing and structural elements of the room.

Wooden Moisture Protection

The desire to arrange a house with natural materials - an up-to-date trend in the field of construction. Particularly boldly use wood even when the floor is cleaned in the "wet" premises. Deciding for such a step, it is necessary to ensure sufficient waterproofing of the coating.

Sealing wooden floor bathroom is carried out by different protective materials:

1. Butter. Modern coating materials areted on the basis of natural oils and contain synthetic additives: polyurethane or solid wax. The oil penetrates deep into the wood structure, filling the microcrack of the material. The composition warns the swelling or drying of the tree.
2. Wax. It is recommended to use over oil. Waxes of moisture resistant, but to maintain the achieved effect, the procedure must be repeated every 1.5-2 years.

The sealing of the junctions between wooden lags is performed by a special sealant for wood. The material allows the tree to breathe, and due to the elasticity of the composition compensates for the expansion and compression of the coating.

On my example acrylic with a one-sided screen of the same material, its length is 1.70 m / p. And the length of the wall to which it leans, just over 2 meters. It turns out that there is a meaningless empty space between the wall and the end of the bath, which will most likely merge water due to the lack of a shower curtain, and quite open to view the type of accessories acrylic bath great to spoil your mood.

We will analyze in order how close space between the bathroom and the wall At the same time you will learn how to install an acrylic bath. This example is also suitable for other types of baths, if you have a plastic or wooden screen, then you do the same way to the method described.

In the case of acquiring a cast-iron bath, you can do without a purchase screen, and close everything according to the same principle by continuing the design of plasterboard throughout the length, as I actually try to tell and show the photo of this. You can buy cheap in online stores, and buy cheaper by 2 times on a construction warehouse will help.

Installation of the bath and its connection to the sewer pipe

We also put in the corner of the premises under (the mixer must be installed in advance). We put on the edge of the bath, the direct level of 2 meters (not less than 60cm) and based on its testimony adjusting the legs along the height rotating them on the thread.

Now bring a plastic screen and check whether it will become in its place or it is worth raising a little higher. Connect the drain system (sump) to the sewer output in the wall, the reserve drain of water from the water overflow with water we set the rubber gaskets with silicone, can be acrylic sealant.

Connect the bath and check the drain system for leakage.

Move the bath from the adjunct walls on the corner in both directions exactly to 1 cm., This distance is necessary under the filling of the mounting foam. Fill out the "plastic basin" to the very top of the water alone, after checking the drain system first on the leakage. Thus, water does not merge until the very end of all works, up to the grout of intercutric seams.

I will explain, the weight of the water imitates the utmost future operational loads, then you will share it and you will be sure that the work done will not crack according to the interlocking seams.

We close the space of the box with the subsequent cladding of ceramic tiles

We proceed to the manufacture of a box of plasterboard. Plasterboard will need desirable moisture resistant to 12mm. First of all, it is simultum about the walls of the outline of a canoe result of work, in some way to continue the acrylic bath if it were from the angle to the opposite corner.

Now, from this outline, retreat in all the strips exactly 3 cm, which is so much necessary for the thickness of the drywall, tile glue and the thickness of the tile.

The drywall box after filling in the mounting foam seam stops flexing.

We shoot the guide profile around the perimeter with just a retreat. You can not do without drilling tiles, about this process and actually how and how to drill learning. It is not recommended to do the holes at once with a perforator directly through facing without prior drilling, the tile may not withstand and crap.

The facing frame from the profile should be indented in 1 cm. From the end of the bath, which is needed for mounting foam. You need a profile for jumpers, they will significantly strengthen the design. Pay attention to the photos and provided to it, it is clearly clearly seen how to use profiles in the manufacture of a metal frame.

As soon as the frame will be ready and screwed to the profiles on the screws precisely with the help of a screwdriver, an ordinary screwdriver will not work as do not try.

The next stage of work, fixation of the bath. Take and shaking the balloon screw it to the tool. If you do not want to spend on a gun for mounting foam, you can do the foam cylinder with a supplied tube.

You should fill the bath with water and do not merge it until the end of all work.

The essence of work, not merging the water fill the seam foam between the acrylic bath and all the surrounding parties to it. Do not overdo it with foam, remember that it has a property to expand greatly, and therefore if they are not sure of the deposit of their actions, they will whore all the edges of the painting scotch.

However, before starting this responsible work, try to release a stream of foam into some empty cardboard box or a bag of a solution, at the same time, check the tool, sometimes pistols under the mounting foam are clogged or worse. While the foam does not freeze to do yet, there is nothing already and can not, the time of setting from 2x to 3 hours.

Cutting the mounting foam can be convened by a regular stationery with replaceable blades.

Cut off the knife of excess the frozen material and you can start styling with tiles, but before install the plastic screen, it is from the top edge of the acrylic "basin" the laying of the first solid tiles should begin. All will go to the place of adjustment of the box along the walls and on the floor to the porcelain. On a concrete example, you will learn about the secrets of wall cladding and not only.

The latter is plastic plinth around the perimeter, serves as faithfully for the beauty and drain of water from the walls inside the bath. Go to the construction store and find the desired material. Using silicone or acrylic sealant, glue directly to the cropped mounting foam. And the last grout of the seams between the tiles ,.

So far, that's all that I remembered. There will be questions, mercy ask in the comments. Good luck in repair!

Letlyaga Gennady Petrovich