If you live in a panel multi-storey building, then the appearance of the slots between the slabs of overlapping or seams, which were unsuccessfully embedded, is the usual phenomenon. That is why if the first signs of this phenomenon appeared, you need to immediately take radical measures. After all, if it is an apartment located on the top floor, then the cracks from the afternoon can drip, dampness, fungus and mold formed. Such a phenomenon is not quite nice. Therefore, the problem needs to be solved. And to do this, you need to have the necessary skills and knowledge. Few know how to close the ceiling seam, so the work for it will seem complex. However, do not rush to call the masters professionals.

However, the seams can give cracks regardless of whether the apartment is on the top floor or on the first. Everyone comes down to the fact that the house can give shrinkage. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to eliminate the problem and close the seams between the plates.

Principle of sealing ceiling seam

A small crack that can form between slabs of overlapping should be examined. Sometimes it happens that it should be expanded. Why? The fact is that often the expansion of the finest crack leads other consequences. Large horizons of work open. That is why you allocated time and means to eliminate the problem, you can do everything qualitatively and conscience. It is better to do work once in full to forget about the problem for many years.

In addition, you can kill two hares in the work: perform sealing the ceiling seam, as well as level the ceiling if it is uneven. In any case, the ceiling must be prepared and clean from finishing and old concrete. The work is simple, as in the construction of multi-storey houses there is some tendency: the sealing of the seams between the plates is carried out by the cement solution of average strength. For starters, let's look at what materials and tools will be needed to qualitatively and correctly perform all the work.

Selection of materials and tools

If you do not want to repeat the error of workers who made you a poor-quality seam, you need to purchase high-quality materials and work on conscience. In addition, the correct tools also play an important role. After all, all the work comes down to get to the seam, expand it, and compact in the process of sealing.

That's what you need to buy before performing the work:

Now that everything is prepared, you can start performing work. We will consider detailed instructions, which will help to make seam even inexperienced person.

Sealing seams between the stoves do it yourself

No matter how cool, and work includes full repair of the ceiling. It is impossible to just clear the place with a crack and gently close it. The finish will differ in any case. Perceive the problem as an opportunity to bring the ceiling in order by completing it to finish even better. Next, consider the process in order:

1. First you need to prepare the surface. This includes a complete cleansing of the ceiling from any finish: paint, whitewashes or plaster. With the help of the pulverizer, it is necessary to spray the ceiling with simple water. In this case, it is better to spray not the entire surface, but to move in parts. Pretty moisturizing the surface, you need to wait 10-15 minutes so that the liquid absorbs into the finish. After that, you can remove the old finish with a spatula (wide and medium). Cleaning one piece of ceiling, you can start the second. The process is repeated until the ceiling is cleaned up to the base.
2. After the old coating is removed, you can immediately determine the amount of future work. It happens that two or three junctions formed from plates of overlapping may be in the room. It can be found that the previous masters embellished them inactively and seams can perform for the surface of the plates, forming hump. All convexities will have to be removed to create a smooth surface of the ceiling.
3. In this work, do not do without a perforator. You need to take an appropriate nozzle, install it, switch the power tools into the shock mode and gradually clean the joint from the cement solution. It is important to carefully divide the seam, removing everything is superfluous from it. The gap will need to deepen inside, at a distance of about 5 cm.
   
   
4. What to do next? Here you need a narrow metal brush or a wide brush. It is needed to remove small particles in the gap, which remained after working with the perforator. It can be dust and small particles of the solution. The seam should be cleaned and prepared for the next stage.
   
   
5. Further stage - processing of the prepared slit of the primer of deep penetration. It will improve the adhesion of the NC composition and plaster, and also keeps it from dampness. Usually, the application of primer is performed by means of a roller, but since the surface being processed is small and hard to reach, then a brush is used for this purpose. It is important to apply the primer with a homogeneous layer and on the entire surface, not passing the plots. Works are performed in two layers, with the wait for the time to dry out the first layer.
6. In the case when the slot between the joints is wide (more than 3.5 cm), then first the slot is filled with mounting foam. It is perfectly closed with a projected surface, and in the expansion process will fill out the opening. Its part will appear for the seam, so the remnants are removed using a building knife. Further in the mounting foam make a groove, which has a depth of 3-5 cm and narrows insurgent, forming the similarity of the triangle.
   
   
7. And in the case when the joint is very deep and narrow, then its preparation before stripping looks like this: they buy a special seal of the corresponding thickness to which there is a strip of sealant and deepen into the slot. It is important to leave the place where the concrete solution will be filled.
   
   
8. Now the seed time is the seam cover using a NC solution. To begin with, it should be prepared using the instruction on the package. This is a dry mix that you need to dilute with water. After preparation, the composition is applied inside the joint with a spatula. The work is simple, you just need to type the mixture from the bucket and fill it all the space inside. Leave a small gap to fill it in latex putty.
   
   
9. It is now important to wait for a complete drying of the solution. The time for which it will dry, is indicated on the packaging. After that, a latex elastic putty should be applied to the treated surface. The process resembles the usual surface tool. Work is carried out using widespread and narrow or medium spatulas. The principle of this: with the help of a narrow spatula, the putty is gaining to a large spatula, and then it is transferred to the joint with a narrow spatula. The big spatula is needed to constantly not descend the next part of the putty. The putty is covered with a uniform layer and rolls up to the ceiling level.
   
   
10. Again, you need to give a putty dry. It will take about two days. Now you can proceed to the reinforcement of the seam with a sickle grid. To fix it in place, a thin layer of putty is applied to the finished seam and the slab on both sides. The width of the layer should be a little more width of the grid. After that it is taken to the putty, and all surplus are removed using a spatula. The reinforcement will strengthen the seam, and in the future it will not be cracked.
11. After the seams are frozen, the surface of the ceiling before processing should be coated with a layer of primer penetration. This time the roller is used, as it will be much easier to cover the ceiling with it. As the first time, it is better to make two layers, leaving the time to dry out the previous one.
    
    
12. The final stage is the ceiling putty entirely. After drying, the primer to the surface is applied by the starting plaster with a thin layer. When it dries, you can apply the finishing layer. The work uses a wide spatula. The last layer should be smooth and perfectly smooth.

Note! Despite the fact that the instruction describes the grout process of one seam, this applies to all seams in the room. We mentioned that there may be several of them, so the repair process is performed immediately with all the seams. For example, clearing and trusting one seam, you need to move to the second and so on.

That's all, sealing the seams between the slabs of the overlap is made. It remains to sweep the ceiling with a grater and apply the finish coating. It can be whitewashed, paint, just putty or wallpaper. And to simplify the task you, you prepared a visual video from which you learn how to close the seam between the slabs of overlapping on the ceiling.

Let's summarize

If you notice that a crack was formed on the ceiling at the place of the joints of the plates, do not cost to beat the alarm. Although it is impossible to leave it without attention, but it is not a large-scale problem. You only need to respond quickly and fulfill all work yourself, given the instruction that was given above. Nevertheless, if you are not sure about your abilities, it is better to entrust the work of professionals. They will definitely do everything right.

The sealing of the seams of plasterboard is the main operation when finishing the walls and ceilings by this material.

If this process does not produce, then the gaps that are formed during the trim will appear under the wallpaper or paint.

Sealing gaps in drywall is a pretty simple procedure, however, it requires the correct technology of its implementation.

Technology of work with seams on plasterboard - the topic of this article.

What you need to know and have before starting work?

Sealing seams of drywall also refers to this form.

Therefore, before proceeding to its execution, you should purchase the following tools:

• putty knife;
• construction mixer;
• roller;
• cuvette;
• grater;
• grid set for grater;
• plaster falcon;
• level;
• stationery knife or edge planer;
• the container where the putty will be.

You will also need these materials:

• putty;
• serpenta;
• primer;
• paper tape;
• perforated corners;
• grid for reinforcement.

It is very important to know that when entering the seams, the temperature and humidity regime must be observed.

The temperature in the room in which the repair is being repaired should not be descended below + 10 ° C and staying for several days after the completion of this work.

Also, when embelling slots, drafts should be avoided, because too, the wet air can interfere with the normal drying of the putty and can lead to the deformation of the seams.

Before embelling seams on plasterboard, you need to make sure that the sheets are well attached to the base.

Otherwise, the layer of putty can collapse.

Preliminary preparation of seams

Before starting work, the seams should be prepared for the grout.

If this is not done, the rapid composition does not fit into the seam and is connected poorly with plasterboard.

To get a tight docking of sheets of plasterboard with each other, you need to align their edges.

To do this, use either a stationery knife, or a sprinkling planer, which removed the upper edges of the GLC at an angle of 45 °.

When the chamfer on all joints will be removed, the surface of the wall or ceiling is processed by primer using a roller.

This can not be done, but, thanks to the primer, the putty is more effectively stuck with a gypsum middle sheet of the trim.

After the primer is driving, all the cracks are sickled with a sickle ribbon.

Large difficulties of applying a tape will not cause, because it has a self-adhesive coating.

It is very important to glue the middle of the junction of drywall and watch the ribbon saving.

The ends of the ribbon when connected - you need to apply one by one at least than 4-5 mm.

If you do not have a sickle, you can use gauze or paper tape, however, the quality of the work performed will be much lower.

If you need to sneak the angles of plasterboard, then the perforated metal corners should be used, which are designed specifically for sealing angular seams.

This part of the work is carried out on a par with a sickle.

Spacure and reinforcement of seams

The next stage of seams begins with the fact that the putty is prepared.

It is poured into the container, add a certain amount of water and whipped using a building mixer.

Water should be room temperature.

The speed of the mixer should not be large, otherwise the reinforcing additives will begin to collapse and this will lead to a decrease in the fortress of this material.

After whipping, the mixture should be left for 5 minutes, after which mix again.

Conditions of maps should resemble a thick sour cream.

You can use the finished putty for 2 hours.

Note, first is used old, and then a new putty is mixed.

After the preparation of this building material, you can begin sealing the seams of plasterboard with their own hands.

Solve apply along the entire length of the seam, as if you rub it inside.

He must fill all its thickness.

To do this, use building falcon and spatula.

A ready-made putty mass is superimposed on the falcon, thanks to which - you will not need to run after the mixture of the container.

And the spatula will help remove the excess solution and align the top layer.

After all this, the putty should dry.

Then - the procedure is repeated and the finishing layer is applied.

The number of layers depends on the presence of irregularities or large gaps.

To make the melting with a high quality, seams should be disposed.

In this case, use a paper tape for seams or a network for reinforcement.

Apply it from above, to a rich layer of putty, and the spatula rubbing the ribbon into the solution.

That is, the grid falls into the middle of the solution and does not give it to shrink when drying.

The final stap of seams of plasterboard seams is grinding of across the plots.

To do this, you can use sandpaper or a special grater, in which there are meshes with a different cell size.

It is very important to know that the grinding should be carried out only with complete drying of the solution, circular motions.

At this stage of work - there is a lot of dust, so do not forget about the respirator or marlevant.

Cement and concrete ties are the most common base for the floor. Due to the fact that after drying, they become insensitive to high humidity, they can be arranged in rooms exposed to moisture (bathrooms, kitchens, bathrooms), as well as outside the house - on terraces.

Cement screed can be easily furnished, because it plastic and has good adhesion to the base

When applying, you can use me with a meal of mixocret (pneumon pump). One worker doses the components of the mixture, and the second causes a solution cooked in the car and injected into the room along a long elastic pipe

Traditional cement tiesmust have a thick consistency.

They are performed from a cement solution of a certain brand (not lower than M75); In this case, the ratio of cement and sand is 1: 3. To prepare a solution, first of all, mix dry components and only then add water. Traditional ties based on cement are characterized by compressive strength of about 25 MPa. In residential premises, the strength must be at least 12 MPa, in the garage - 20 MPa.

Concrete tie Perform from concrete classes B10, B15, B20. The aggregate here can be sand, crushed stone, gravel. The size of the aggregate should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the screed. Concrete ties may have a dense-plastic or semi-dry consistency. They can be supplied using a device called mixocret (pneumatic pump).

Semi-dry screed (the so-called Hard) Due to a significantly smaller amount of water, it has much greater compressive strength (about 35 MPa) compared with traditional solutions. In addition, they are characterized by a smaller shrinkage, in connection with which a less susceptible to the occurrence of cracks. Cemented and concrete ties, including those cooked at a construction, can be added components that accelerating the setting that increase the density or increasing plasticity.

Modern market offers ready-made mixesTo which it is enough to add water on the construction site (its number is always indicated by the manufacturer). As a rule, in such mixtures there are glass and polypropylene fibers, which perform the function of reinforcement, which prevents shrinkage and cracking. The finished mixtures of the water can have a thick positioned, semi-dry or semi-liquid consistency (in this case, they are ideally distributed based on the base, forming a self-leveling screed). The quality of mixtures is improved due to polymer additives, thanks to which the collapse of the screed is accelerated. It is possible to put the coating from the floor tile or GRES (porcelain stoneware) after 24 hours, and on some - even four hours later. Some finished mixtures are suitable for cooking and feeding them with a concrete pump. Their compression strength can reach 55 MPa.

Performing a heated flooring is best to choose a finished mixture - information on the possibility of such an application should be on the package.

Attention! In the case of outdoor heating, the screed must coat tubes with a heat carrier on a thickness of at least 2 cm or equal to their diameter - 2.5; 3 cm.

Types of hardware

Constructive screeds are divided into bound to the base and discharged on the dividing layer. As a separation layer, there can be only a waterproofing film or heat or sound insulation.

Technique laying screeds are similar regardless of their type. At the same time, the base is preparing differently and the thickness of the screed of non-etinakov.

Tie, It is connected directly to the structural part of the house - the concrete slab floor on the ground or overlap. It should function together with the structural part of the building on which it was laid, so the base must always be primed before the screed device (it is necessary to perform a layer providing adhesion).

Screed on the divided layer It is performed if the base is wet, has fat pollution, too weak or characterized by excessive absorption. In this case, the screed should be stalled over the separation layer - on the waterproofing film with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm. It must be laid with a 10-centimeter adhesive and wrapped on the walls. After the device, the protruding fragments of the film must be cut off.

Floating screed It is suitable if the base is too weak or indoors it is necessary to reduce the level of impact noise.

The sound insulation layer (substrate) is performed from special materials intended for laying floor coatings. These may be mats from elastic polymeric materials, natural cork, corrugated cardboard sheets, mineral wool plates with a thickness of 30-40 mm. It is placed on the waterproofing from the film, and only then they suite the screed from above.

If the screed is arranged, for example, in a room located above the unheated garage, laying of thermal insulation material may be needed. The insulation plates are laid with the dressing so that the seams between them are shifted relative to each other.

Fig. How to connect the screed with the base

The traditional cement screed can be stalled if the temperature of the base and air indoor is from +5 to + 25 ° C. Before starting work, you need carefully takingitate the base to remove the contaminants that could weaken the adhesion tie.

1. Basin baseTo increase its adhesion. Eague it crashes or having fat pollution, then instead of primer, it is necessary to apply the separation layer from the film

2. Along the walls and vertical structural elements of the house (for example, stairs, columns) perform a wired compensatory (dilatation) seam. Accordingly, the trimmed ribbons from polyurethane foam or strip of polystyrene foam 1 cm thick we are kpripim to the wall with adhesive mortar

3. On the cakes from the solution (the best, fast-crumbling) we fix the railway rail guides - Wooden rails or steel tubes. Between them should be a distance of about 1.5 m, and the distance from the walls is 20 cm. Before conspiring lighthouses on the basis, they should be lubricated by the anti-adhesion composition, so that they can be easily removed

4. Using the level we check whether lighthouses are located in the same plane.. Due to the fact that the level of beacons is suitable, it is possible to obtain not only one level of the floor, but also its provided slopes

5. Bored with a shovel or mechanically in concrete mixer Solution evenly distribute between guide beacons. It must perform a little over the level of the beacons

6. After the death of the solution is a grater (from foamolistic, wood or steel), align the surface of the screed with a wooden rail, performing zigzag movements. By moving the rail towards yourself, remove the surplus. If the rules have remained unfilled with a sink solution, they should be immediately eliminated and re-aligned with the screed

7. After the initial grasp solution, we we remove the guides of lighthouses. It should be done very carefully, so as not to damage the freshest tie. If the laid solution has a semi-dry consistency, then this can be done after two or three hours

8. Places where lighthouses were fill out fresh mortar. Theatest, using a wood grater or polystyrene pens, we drag the surface of the screed, performing circular movements. The surface of the screed will be smooth, on rough, which will ensure good grasp of glue or mortar, which are glued with flooring

9. In certain places Slash intermediate temperature compensation (dilatation) seams. If we do it immediately after rubbing the surface of the screed, we use a spatula if you later - a diamond disk

How to perform compensatory seam

Wailed compensation (dilatational) seam should separate the screed from the structural elements of the building, so it should be performed along all walls, as well as around the stairs and columns. Such seam makes the thickness of the screed, attaching to the constructive elements, from which the screed must be separated, compensation tape, for example, polyurethane foam. Thanks to the requested compensation seam, the screed will not be subjected to stresses as a result of deformation of the structural elements of the building.

In addition, these elements will not be transmitted shock noise from the floor. Intermediate compensation seams divide the screed to the smaller fields, preventing the occurrence of cracks as a result of a shrewing shrew. The thickness of the notch depends on the thickness of the screed and the presence of outdoor heating. As a rule, cuts are performed on 1/3-1 / 2 thickness of the screed. In the reinforced screeds, compensation seams must be made between the sheets of the reinforcement grid. In cement and concrete screeds, intermediate compensation seams should divide the screed on the field of an area not exceeding 30 m2, with a side of no more than 6 m. In long corridors, the execution of intermediate compensation seams depends on the width of the room: how it is less, the seams should be more. Compensation seams should be performed at a distance equal to 2-2.5 times the size of the width of the corridor.

Attention! Cuts should also be performed at the junction of two different flooring and in the case of a change in the thickness of the screed.

The place of performing seams should also be tied to the tile format so that the intercutric seams coincide with compensation. Sometimes there is a need to move compensation seam for several centimeters.

Compensation seams under parquet and laminate are replenished. In the case of a flooring from the tile and stone, compensation seams, repeated in interline seams, can remain at the base empty, with the exception of the terraces: there should be it to fill them with waterproof material, for example, silicone. In addition, the seamlessness of the seams can provide appropriately resistant to the penetration of water glue masses and fugues. It must be remembered that the materials used are from one manufacturer.

Wound compensation seams in the floor layer remain empty. If the coating is parquet or laminate, the plinths will close the slot. If the coating of tiles or stone was laid, the plinth should be higher than the floor level on the thickness of the Fugue, and the resulting gap should be filled with elastic material, for example, silicone fugue.

How to correctly perform compensation seams in the screed, consider on the example of this project. Their location depends on the size and shape of the premises, the placement of the walls and the columns on the floor. If there are several floors in the house, it is also important to separate the screed from the design of the stairs, which connects them. Since the concrete staircase provided for by the project can be concreted with a platform and rely only on the overlap or beam of the inter-market platform (and the choice of solution affects the placement of compensation seams), we show how to trace them in each of the possible cases. For clarity in one color, we allocated a wall compensatory seam, going along the walls, and the other - intermediate compensation seams separating the screed to the smaller fields.

1. Compensation seams in the tie

2. Compensation seams in the first floor screed

3. Compensation seams in the screed floor

Nevertheless, it is possible to abandon compensatory seams in a good concrete basis, but in this case it is necessary to separate it from a concrete screed so-called sliding (separating) layer of film with a thickness of 0.2 mm. But compensation seams in the screed must be placed depending on the sizes of the tile - they do not have to divide the screed to the fields 100 x 100 cm - they can be shifted by several centimeters and perform cuts with fields, for example, 90 x 90 cm or 110 × 110 cm.

If a polymer resin-based coating should be laid or a screed is planned to leave a painted polyurethane paint, a larger number of cuts should be performed than for other types of coatings.

How to reinforce

The need for reinforcement of a screed depends on its thickness and the magnitude of the load, which it will be subject to operation. The reinforcement is performed in thinner screeds - 3.5-4 cm thick. They are reinforced with a metal mesh 10 x 10 cm or 15 x 15 cm from a 3- or 4-millimeter wire.

The grid is placed on remote rails, the thickness of which should be approximately equal to half the thickness of the screed.

Only after the valve is decomposed, the screed should be laid. The level of the reinforced screed is defined in the same way as unarmed - using guide rails-beacons laid directly on the base.

The need for reinforcement is determined, among other things, the type of screed. Hyplicity knots do not need to be reinforced (as well as ready-made solutions reinforced by fibrovolock).

How to determine the level of screed

It is best to do it immediately on the whole floor, taking into account the thickness of the floor coverings stacked in different rooms (for example, the thickness of the parquet will differ from the thickness of the carpet or tile for the floor).

So that the floors were on the same level, you need to put the screed of different thickness in separate rooms.

Determining the level of the screed on the floor should always be started from the room in which the screed will be the largest, for example, with the one in which there will be outdoor heating. Such a screed will have a thickness of at least 4 cm. Determining the height of the screed in adjacent rooms, you need to take into account the thickness of the floor coating.

The exceptions are the premises where water can be spilled, such as a bathroom or kitchen, here it must be lower than the level of the hall and residential premises per 1 cm.

You do not need to take care of the accurate definition of the thickness of the screed, when the thresholds are assumed. If a traditional solution with a dense-plastic or semi-dry consistency is used for the screed device, the screed level is fixed by beacons attached to the base. Later surplus the solution is removed using the rule.

Breaks in working with a screed

They need to be done after mounting the screed throughout the room. It is best to lay a screed leaving a few centimeters beyond the threshold, and cut off it in a place in which the compensatory seam should be made, and then remove the residual residues from it. After the break it is from this place to start laying a screed

Preparing solution, you should always take into account how much time it will be developed (the traditional cement solution must be used over two hours). The use of ready-made mixtures is always indicated by the manufacturer - as a rule, it is one or two hours. Determining breaks in the work, you should also take into account then, after what time it will be necessary to rub the screed. Traditional cement screeds are rubbed, as a rule, 8-10 hours after laying (after 24 hours they may be too hard). The semi-dry concrete screed stisting with a pneumon pump can be pushed by three or four hours after execution. Pulling screed is not always recommended. The crucial role plays the type of flooring.

If this should be, for example, a rolled coating, the base should be swallowed. If the coating is glued to the tile for the floor, then the more roughly the screed is, the better the clutch will be.

Caring for tie

If we want the traditional cement or concrete screed to have appropriate strength, it is necessary within 7 days after the end of the work take care that it is wet. The rooms in which the screeds must remain closed, so that the drafts do not lead to too rapidly drying the screed.

The surface of the screed can be covered with a polyethylene film, thanks to which the screed will be regularly moistened with water condensing on the underside of the film. You can also decompose on the screed layer of wet sawdust. The surface of the screeds laid in the summer is best to simply spray with water. After seven days of such care, you should remove the film or sawdust from it and proceed to ventilating the room. After four to six weeks of slow drying, the level of its humidity should be less than 3%. Less sensitive to moisture flooring, such as tile, can be stacked after three to four weeks.

Gypsum ties

They acquire more and more supporters. They can be used under all types of coatings, ranging from carpeting and finishing stone. However, they are suitable only for dry premises, since under the influence of moisture is destroyed. Nevertheless, they have other advantages - they are resistant to shrinkage, do not crack and do not crumble under the influence of temperature drops. Therefore, gypsum ties are ideal for use where there is an outdoor heating. In rooms up to 50 m2 they do not need to perform intermediates (and only wall) compensation seams. Gypsum ties have high compressive strength-about 20 MPa.

Chatting on heated floors

Already at the stage of installation of floor heating, it should be envisaged, where exactly the temperature compensation (dilatational) seams will be performed, and the special compensation ribbons intended for floors with heating will be made between sections of outdoor heating. Thus formed compensation seams should pass through the thickness of the screed.

Compensation tapes separating the floor to the fields (approximately 3 x 3 m) must be fixed before the screed

For floors with heating, semishers are also suitable for concrete ties supplied by pneumatic pump. They are placed alternately in the form of fields delimited by compensation ribbons

The most frequent errors when performing screeds

• Adding to cement lime solutionswhich increases plasticity, but worsens the strength of the screed.
• Alignment with cement-lime mortarremaining after plastering walls - the upper layer will move along with the flooring.
• Lack of relevant screed care after it laying - Due to the lack of moisture, the hardening of the upper layer occurs too quickly and the screed will not have sufficient strength.
• The use of too liquid mortar - Due to adding a very large amount of water, the screed will dry for many months. Such a screed has less strength and is susceptible to greater shrinkage, and in connection with this - cracking.

The process of reinforcing the reinforcement, as a result of which continuous reinforcement is obtained, is called docking.

In modern construction there are different ways to connect valves:

• mechanical;
• with welding;
• vansel without welding.

Benefits of mechanical docking

This method is the most profitable, respectively, and most commonly used. If you compare the process of mechanical connection of reinforcement with docking reinforcement, the main advantage here is that there is no significant loss of material. The docking of the mustache leads to the loss of a certain number of reinforcement (approximately 27%).

If you compare the mechanical connection of the reinforcement with docking with welding, then in this case wins the speed of work that is spent much less time. In addition, only professional welders must perform welding to avoid poor-quality work, which in the future can lead to negative consequences. As a result, if you carry out a mechanical docking, you can significantly save on the wages of qualified masters.

As a result of this method of compound, a sufficiently durable design is obtained. Get an equal connection using this method, it is possible under various weather conditions and at any time of the year.

Back to the category

The process of mechanical reinforcement

Foundation Reinforcement Scheme with Stiffness Ribs: 1 - Mesh from Work Armagra, 2 - Vertical fittings.

To carry out the docking of the reinforcement, the appropriate tool will be needed mechanically - hydraulic press.

From materials will need:

• pressed and threaded coupling;
• armature rods.

The mechanical connection technology is quite simple and is as follows:

• a steel clutch is put on the reinforcement rod;
• it is crimped with a hydraulic press;
• for the second rod, the process is repeated again.

As a result of the time to create a mechanical connection, it goes very little. Instead of connecting couplings, the use of thick-walled steel pipes or couplings, which have a partition in the center, which greatly simplifies the installation.

Durable mechanical docking is possible for reinforcement rods of different diameters. This is carried out due to the presence of replaceable stamps in the hydraulic press.

To perform this type of docking, you do not need help professionals, almost everyone can cope with the task. But there is one important condition: two people should be performed at once.

Back to the category

Docking reinforcement with welding

Despite the popularity of mechanical docking, the connection of the reinforcement with welding is also equally in demand in construction. There are several ways of arc welding:

• extended seams;
• multilayer seams without the use of other technological elements;
• with compulsory seam formation;
• point.

To perform this type of work, the following tools will be needed:

• welding machine;
• electro holders;
• shields;
• protective glasses;
• hammer, chisel;
• metal brushes;
• skimmer;
• steel line;
• plumb, stigma.

Main working material - fittings.

The welding of reinforcement extended seams is used to connect horizontal and vertical rods. This type of docking is possible with lining or brass. The binding compound is performed by extended seams, but an option using and arc points is possible. It is also possible to combine reinforcement rods with a short and long pendant or bilateral and one-sided seam.

Welded joints of lining with reinforcement rods are short or long. It is allowed to shift the lining in length. Welding of reinforcement is performed by various flank seams.

In the process of welding with double-sided seams during the overlay of the second on the other side of the compound, there are sometimes hot longitudinal cracks. To prevent their appearance, it is necessary to carefully select the type of electrodes and strictly withstand the technological mode of welding.

Welded extensive seams are multi-frequency or single-pass, it depends on the diameter of the jet rods. Current for arc welding is selected depending on the type of electrodes. It is important to consider one condition: in the process of welding of reinforcement, located in a vertical position, current is 10-20% less than for rods in a horizontal location.

Back to the category

Welding multilayer seams

In the presence of highly qualified welders or with small amounts of work, the welding of multilayer seams without the use of molding elements is often used to dock fittings. This method is most suitable for connecting the reinforcement, located in a vertical form. Corners of the bevels, their direction, dull and dimensions, shape of the cutting, gaps between the rods are standard.

Welding of reinforcement with multi-layer seams is performed using a single electrode. The welding seam is first superimposed on one side of the cutting, and then on the entire width - on the other. During the separation of the cutting, it is necessary to periodically clean from the slag crying metal.

The mode for this type of welding is set by the one that is specified in the passport data of the electrodes. In this case, they usually applied with fluorinistocalcium coating.