Installing an additional toilet. Plumbing under control or installation of the toilet with their own hands

The complexity of installation depends on the design and especially how the draining is arranged. The product may be easy or heavy. Not only sizes, but also material affect the mass. To achieve good stability, you will have to prepare a reliable basis that will surely affect the height. If the transfer relative to communications is not planned, the height can be left for the same. With increasing distance to release, it should be lifted so that the water is not stored and can flow freely. There are other nuances associated with the method of fastening, the tank position, the angle of the drain hole. Recommendations, how to install the toilet, often contradict each other, but all the advisers converge in one - this event requires careful preparation.

Do not start working at once. Even when replacing the device for a similar non-transfer it to another place, you must make sure that all the works were carried out correctly, and that it is not necessary to redo anything. It is possible that it will take replacing the old pipe to a new or repairs of the base that serves as a support.

Stages of mounting

  • The selection of the model is desirable that it coincides with its parameters with the old appliance. Then you do not have to change the eyeliner and put adapters. You can make a choice in parallel with other works, but it is better to determine in advance by calculating all the parameters at the design stage.
  • Dismantling of an old device - you should not hold it before purchasing a new one. It is more convenient to replace immediately within one day.
  • Check and repair communications - they must be fully working. Errors made by past installation must be eliminated. If equipment is installed with other parameters, you will need preparatory work on laying new pipes and changing the floor level. As a rule, it is also connected with finishing work. It will take a certain amount of tiles or other materials that were lined with a bathroom. In the absence of necessary reserves, you will have to do the original design using new materials.
  • Installing the toilet with your own hands or with the involvement of professionals. Even the unprofessional can cope with her, but in difficult cases will take help from a specialist.
In case of major repairs, the toilet establish last. It is easy to damage when finishing, replacing communications or installation of a heated towel rail.

Consider each other.

Selecting a device

The models differ in the method of connecting, fastening, on the shape of the bowl and the location of the drain barrel.

The drain can be arranged in parallel or perpendicular to the floor, or at an angle of 45 °. Two or four fasteners are used for installation. Installation can also be made on special corners. The tank is screwed to the porcelain base or hanging on the wall. The foundations are divided into plate, visors and funnel-shaped.

Types of reasons toilet bowl

  • Tarbed have a horizontal shelf with a deepening. Some models are missing, and the rear wall is made with a slight bias.
  • At the visors, this bias is much stronger. It simplifies the drain, but makes the seat above.
  • The funnel-shaped feature that the hole is in the middle, and not from the edge, like two previous varieties. They are pretty high, but they can have small sizes, which is very important for.

The height of the installation of the toilet bowl

The parameter is very important if the device is transferred from sewage. The more distance to it, the more important should be a pedestal. Pipe leading to sewage is at an angle. Than this angle is more, the better the plums passes. You can achieve the necessary inclination when lengthening communications, you can only raise the issue.

The release may be in the floor. In this case, the flange with the retainer is put on it. The sewer pipe is entered into the flange hole. The seal serves a special wax ring. The lower part of the porcelain base is put on top of the flange cuff.

The tank connects to the flexible hose water supply. On metal threads should be stamped a bit of packle, otherwise there will be a possibility of leakage.

When everything is ready, the faucet opens onto the KNSO HVO. With a small leakage, the connection is tightened. The water level in the tank is adjusted using a plastic float. It can be done above or lower. Making sure that there is no leakage, the tap on the riser is open at full capacity.

Today it is difficult to imagine the bathroom without such an important and necessary plumbing device as a toilet. It was already necessary to make it installing it or, at least, to observe how a professional does it. If you only have this job, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with all the subtleties and find out the technology of proper installation. It is also very important to know what is needed for - what materials and fixtures may be needed. From how well you prepare will depend on the final result and service life of the device.

Necessary toilet facilities

Initially, it may seem that the installation of a toilet to communicate, a rather simple process that can perform each. However, in this case it is very easy to allow an error that can cost expensive. If you do not read the instructions and act inattentively, the equipment can be spoiled. This can not be allowed. We will analyze more, what tools and materials will be needed in your work:

  1. Gofrotrub, which is used to connect the toilet bowl with sewage.
  2. Burning hose of a certain length. Through it, cold water will be served to the tank.
  3. The ball valve, with which the water supply is adjusted.
  4. Sealing agent with silicone. They process all joints and connections.
  5. The tape-seal, necessary for the tightness of the input pipe of the water pipe, in case there is an internal thread.
  6. Cement for alignment of floors in the bathroom, if necessary.
  7. Fasteners for the toilet, which, the cup of everything, comes complete with the product. Usually the bolts are attached to it, dowels from plastic, gaskets and stubs for bolts, as well as screws.

In the event that the toilet complex does not include all these devices, they will need to be purchased independently.

List of plumbing tools

But the installation of the toilet on the tiled plate is impossible to produce without the following tools:

  • Perforator or drill;
  • Drills of two types - for concrete and for ceramics;
  • Adjustable key that is used for mounting the hose;
  • Curne for chips on ceramic tiles, it will reduce the slide of the drill;
  • Hammer to clog dowels;
  • Rubber spatula to remove excess silicone sealant;
  • Pencil, which will have to outline the contour of the base of the toilet, as well as celebrate the places of attachment of the bolts;
  • Screwdriver that you will spin fasteners.

If you are not just installing a new toilet, and make a replacement, you will also have to dismantle the old device. And in this case, it may also be necessary to align the damaged floor surface. Whatever it may be, before starting work, be sure to turn off the plumbing device from the water supply system.

How is the installation of the toilet?

After all finishing works were finished, and the floor surface was leveled, proceed to the installation. In order to connect a plumbing device with a sewer system, a corrugated grinder is needed. One end is put on a drain nipple of the toilet, and the other is on the tap of the sewage.

Well, if the tube's removal coincides with the drain, then you can do without a corrugation. Here the connecting element is a rubber seal with edging. If you want to apply the seal, then in no case cement the place where the drain goes into the sewer.

How to ensure the flow of water to the drain tank? You will use a flexible hose. It is screwed onto a water crane, feeding water to the tank inlet. Then you need to trace that the diameter of fasteners from both edges of the hose was the same.

While the connection is made, you can start mounting the device to the floor, or to the wall. It depends on the type of plumbing device. Of course, the toilet must be pre-assembled. When the base is securely mounted in the floor, the tank is attached to it and the pipe from the suspended tank is enshrined, which is fixed on the wall.

After these works are completed, you need to test the operation of the device, as well as configure the tank. To do this, include water that should fill the tank. Adjusting the float, adjust the level of water you need. Then water will be able to constantly gain in a certain amount. In attaching the lid. To do this, in the upper area of \u200b\u200bthe bowl from the other side that the walls are mounted on the holes, which are provided by the manufacturer.

Features and methods for fastening the toilet

Now we know what you need to install the toilet and it is time to consider the process of installing the sanitary service on its rightful place. There are three main ways to install the toilet to the floor:

  • Fastening with the help of dowels or anchors that are poured into the screed;
  • Fastening based on wood, which was mounted in a screed using screws;
  • Fastening to the floor on epoxy resin.

Professionals give the following tips on installing the toilet in all these cases. Consider the mounting option using anchor bolts, as well as on the basis of wood. Very convenient, if at the same time there is a major overhaul of the floor in the bathroom. Then these two procedures can be combined at the time on the floor there will be a screed.

In the place where the device should be placed and its attachment is assumed, an anchor is placed. Over the surface of the screed, they must perform on 5-6 cm. It will be better if you have to cut up too much than the length of the anchors is not enough. Then it can not be fixed in it.

The wood stand must fully comply with the size and outlines of the base. Following chess order, nails are clogged throughout the area. They must speak on the back. Now the board can be turned over and install it where the toilet will be located.

The screed is poured with concrete so that only the outer side of the stand can be seen on the surface. The toilet is placed on the substrate and insert screws into the holes. If you need to fix the toilet to the tiled floor, then resort to the next technique. To prevent crawler cracking, rubber washers are put on a dowel and anchor. It will also help with non-psycho rust flops on the floor. Anchor or bolts at the same time it is best to choose with a nickel-plated coating. In this case, you will easily remove fasteners when they fail and they will need to be replaced.

If the tiled floor you do not change, and there is no possibility to mount the device in the screed, what is required to install the toilet in this case? Ideally, it will be installed on a dowel or an epoxy resin. In this case, the coating will not be corrupted.

In order to use a dowel, you need to first do holes through the tile and tie, you screw the screws. So that the waterproofing of the floor was not broken, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the holes. With too thin tie, in these holes you need to pour a little sealant on silicone. It is better that the screws are "dressed" into rubber washers, then they do not scratch the floor in the process of twisting.

It is better if the base of the toilet and the floor will be separated by a layer of sealant. It must be applied to the spin of the bolts. If you do not want to use any fasteners, then resin will help you out. Also this method is suitable if the installation will be made on the wall.

Before changing the resin, the floor must be cleaned with the help of sandpaper. This will make the surface with a rough and help the better grip of two surfaces. The adhesive base is applied to the toilet and on the floor with a thin layer, just a couple of millimeters. Do not touch the toilet to completely dry the resin.

Installation of suspended toilet

Recently, it is becoming increasingly popular. It is easy to install with your own hands. The advantage of this installation can be considered that the floor does not remain non-wellwork traces from fasteners and generally any traces. The toilet is mounted on a frame from metal profiles. It is installed on the carrier wall. The tank and pipes at the same time will easily hide behind the fake wall of the drywall.

If the frame design is not provided, then the toilet can be attached directly to the wall. But then, most likely, you will have to carry the pipe sewage inside the wall. The device is mounted using anchors.

The reasons for replacing the toilet may be different: the change of old, repair or rearrangement of the instruments. You can hire specialists, but if you want to save, it is better to find out how to put the toilet yourself, without their help.

Installation of toilet - not such a difficult case, but you have to master some technological operations and comply with some rules.

Choosing a new toilet bowl

Unitaase installation circuit in the open way.

First of all, you will need a new toilet. When choosing a toilet, you need to pay attention to its size and connection. The most optimal option is to purchase a toilet similar to the one that stood before. This is important because you will be sure that you will not have any problems with the connection, since all the holes will coincide. But often you want to buy something completely different, in this case you will be expected difficulty with the installation: there may be no necessary spare parts for fastening or the need to redo the sewage system if the toilet is fastened, for example, on the wall. The classic velocity of the toilet is an outdoor toilet, which has a removal nozzle at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor. If you had a toilet toilet in another design, it is better to make it drawing to avoid bugs when buying. But you naturally, you can buy any model like, especially since some detailed instructions are on their installation.

When buying a new toilet bowl, it is necessary to take into account the distance between the edge of the toilet and the side wall, it should not be less than 20-25 cm, respectively, the size of the toilet is selected. The second parameter that must be taken into account is the distance from the floor to the axis of the fan pipe, which is indicated in the characteristics of the toilet. If the fool is too high, then you will have to raise the floor level that is quite laborious. If the old toilet function was functioning without problems, then install a new one follows the same place.

Materials and tools for installing toilet

To install the toilet, you will need to stock:

The scheme of the structure of a compact toilet.

  • perforator to make holes in the floor;
  • dowels;
  • a set of wrench keys;
  • screwdrivers for mounting a drain tank;
  • silicone sealant;
  • a large modular key;
  • scotch:
  • polyethylene;
  • piece of fine rubber or old linoleum;
  • pencil or marker.

For drilling holes, it is better to use a perforator if it is not, then you can rent. If you use the usual drill by setting it into the shock mode, you can spoil the tile, and the process can delay for a long time. Perforator One hole is made without much effort within 2-3 minutes.

Dismantling of old toiletza

Before installing a new toilet, you need to dismantle the old one, you can cope with it yourself. There is a variant of using the old toilet, for example, in the country. But from the point of view of savings is not the best option. All plumbing devices are designed for a certain service life, so they can quickly fail if they do not change the spare parts. Replacing spare parts for new ones can at the cost equal to the purchase of a new economy-class toilet. Therefore, if the toilet served most of its term, it is better not to use it again.

Before dismantling, you need to clean pipelines. The easiest way is to pour hot water into sewer tubes with some detergent. If you just lower the water from the tank, it will help much, because the old plumbing is dismantled, and therefore inside there are deposits that will interfere with dismantling. For flushing pipes, you need to take 2-3 buckets of hot water and make one bottle of white or domain in them, then all this should be poured into the toilet. Now you can proceed to dismantling.

Installation scheme toilet bowl.

The easiest thing is dismantled by the tank, difficulties may occur with the bottom fastener. In Soviet times, the toilet fastening bolts was not extended to the floor, most often the toilet was installed on the solution. Since the whole country was put the same plumbing on concrete floors with an infrared cafeter, the described method was widespread. You can split such a base with a perforator and hammer. Do not forget about protective glasses, as fragments from the faience can get into the eyes. If the toilet is set relatively recently, it is necessary to unsubscribe the screws that it is screwed to the floor.

When dismantling the old toilet, some water can pour out, so you need to prepare rags and buckets in advance. Next, it is necessary to make sealing of the sewer tube, using a piece of polyethylene and scotch. Polyethylene should simply be wounded on the hole and secure the scotch. This procedure is necessary in order to eliminate transfusion if too much of the effluent is spoiled. The receiving opening must be cleaned before sealing. If the sewage is cast iron, then you can use the hammer and spatula. If the pipes are plastic, they can be cleaned with a sharp knife.

After dismantling the old toilet, it is necessary to clear the place where the new device will be installed. If when dismantling the surface of the floor was damaged, the disadvantages can be covered with the help of a repair solution. It is not necessary to expect complete drying of the solution, since defects are usually small, and for the base of the toilet, there are points of support. For a complete drying of the cement mixture, a month is needed, after which the surface under the toilet will be monolith.

Installation of a new toilet bowl

The toilet must be installed on a special gasket, for this a thin rubber sheet or a piece of old linoleum is suitable. The toilet is placed on the found material, and the place where it is worth, will be burned by a marker, places for fasteners are distinguished. Next, the sharp knife or scissors is cut all. The gasket put on the floor, applying a thin layer of silicone sealant to the reliability of the design. The sealant fills irregularities and provides good tightness, which will not give moisture and dust. After performing this operation, you can start drilling. Drilling can be carried out on the laying, and it is possible to install it. With the glued gasket, the installation is easier, as it is a kind of guideline. First you need to place the toilet so that it is easy to connect to the pipelines, then break the place on the floor and glue the gasket there. This will be a landmark.

Sometimes it takes a little to raise the toilet. For example, if the system has two toilet bowl - one in the toilet, and the other in the bathroom. In order for the water to be at the bottom point, one of the toilet bowls should be raised by 3-4 cm. For a stand, a two-link board is taken, which is cut into size, the rubber laying is put on top of it. All this is fastened with silicone sealant.

Carnate toilet to semi can be attached in two ways: long metal dowels or large plastic bolts. Dowels are considered the easiest and most convenient way, it is easier to buy them than specialized sanitary fasteners. The sanitary kit consists of 2 long screws, 2 plastic dowels, 2-pucks, 2 silicone linings under the washers and 2-decorative plastic caps worn on the heads of the screws. First, the holes are drilled, and then the dowels are clogged. Next, the toilet is installed and is screwed to the base. The first stage is completed, the pipeline connection remains.

Fittings for the drain tank are simply installed, it is only necessary to screw the necessary nuts. Install the corrugation is more difficult. The corrugation is a special polymer harmonic tube, intended to connect the outlet opening of the toilet and the input to the sewer. Previously, there was no such a pipe-harmonica, and the builders had to customize the toilet to the inlet of the sewage in such a way that the pipelines are accurately connected. The connection site was winding a kind of fur coat for which rags, plaster and paint were used. The corrugation simplified the sealing process.

It is very important to smear all the joints with a sealant. Beginner masters often lubricate only the bottom of the compounds with corrugation, coupling and sewage. Over time, the sewage can be clogged, all the drains can go through the top edge, which is not lubricated with a sealant. With the right installation it is necessary on both sides of the corrugations to apply a thick layer of silicone sealant with a strip of a width of about 2-3 cm. Corrugation combines the release and seasinet of sewage, while the connection location must be pressed well. After installation, the toilet should not use it for 4 hours, so that the sealant took up well. The toilet must be installed securely and steadily.

How to put the toilet yourself without the help of specialists


You decided to make repair with your own hands, then you need to know how to put the toilet yourself. In this case, you can save your funds, as you will not resort to the help of specialists.

How to install the toilet with your own hands

From our article you will learn how to install the toilet with your own hands. This is a fairly simple operation, provided that you are able to overlap the flow of cold water, and the feed and sewer pipes do not need major repairs. In this case, we will install a toilet bowl with the bottom of the tank. This option is simpler, since most of the weight of the tank in this case falls on the toilet. When installing a toilet bowl with a top tank, reliable fasteners will be required to maintain the weight of the latter (for brick walls it is not a problem, but in the case of walls from hollow materials you will have to resort to special tricks).

1. If the height of the floor undertaken in the repairs undertaken in the repairs undertakes, the height of the floor has changed, it is necessary to compensate for the difference using the eccentric cuff - the so-called toilet corrugation (for sewage) and the flexible hose (for cold water supply). In the case of large changes in the height, professional plumbing skills will be required.

2. If the floor in the bathroom is not smooth enough, the toilet is better installed on silicone sealant. You can use small wooden / plastic wedges, but here without sealant can not do, because it allows you to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet.

3. If the sewer pipes go down, via the floor, and not through the walls, you will need a rectangular knee or a flexible corrugated cuff. This is not the only difference, but the main one.

Build and installation of a toilet bowl

2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the insides of the tank. The sequence of actions depends on the type of drain system used in the model you selected.

3. Make sure that all the details are securely secured, but do not make excessive effort when tightening bolts and screws.

4. In most cases, a bolts for attaching it to the toilet are sold with a tank. Do not forget to wear the washers and rubber cone gaskets before inserting the bolts into the holes intended for them.

Installation toilet with a tank installed

6. Insert the corrugated cuff (corrugated extension cord) into the sewer pipe, making sure it is tight fit. Our example requires a simple direct connective cuff. (When connecting the toilet to the cast-iron pipe, you will need a transition cuff with a diameter of 110 mm. See photo. It must be abundantly lubricated with silicone sealant and insert a cast-iron pipe with a dirty tube. See photo. Only after that you can insert a corrugated plastic cuff into it.

7. Move the toilet to the sewer pipe. Make sure that its release is on the same level with the installed pipe. Most likely, it is. But if not and the offset is quite large, then you will need to use an eccentric corrugated cuff.

8. Gently install the toilet to the place intended for it, putting the cuff to the outlet.

9. Ensure that the tank is smoothly located with an alcohol level by placing the last one along the back wall. Through the rear wall of the tank, mark the places on the wall where the holes have to do for its fixation.

10. Do the same with the toilet itself: Check it with a horizontal view through an alcohol level and mark on the floor of the mounting holes, trying to be as accurate as possible.

11. Mark the pencil on the edge of the base of the toilet. Knowledge of the exact position of "legs" will be useful to you when you finish the preparatory work and begin the final fastening of the toilet.

12. Move the toilet from the wall. Drill the holes for fastening the tank, focusing on the labels on the wall. Pick up (including the material of the wall) and insert the dowels.

13. Drill holes in the floor in the points you marked. When drilling a ceramic tile, you will need a perforator and a drill on concrete. At the beginning of the clock, the pressure on the perforator must be not large, after passing the layer of the pressure tiles can be increased. Insert the dowels into the holes. If the floor is wooden, as in our case, they are not needed.

14. Before installing the toilet in place, apply silicone sealant on the floor along the marked line with a pencil corresponding to the border of the "leg" base.

15. Place the toilet in its place. Screw the tank to the wall, inserting between the screws of the screws and the tank wall of the washer. Do not overdo it, tightening screws.

16. Screw the base of the toilet to the floor. In this case, the same rules apply: first, do not forget about plastic washers, secondly, do not tighten the screws too tight.

Water connection and installation termination

17. Connect the tank to a cold water tube. Low probably, you will need a flexible connecting hose. The connection site depends on the position of the inlet pipe on the new tank.

18. Turn on the water by opening the shut-off valve, and make sure that there are no leaks in all connectivity places. Also check the tightness of the articulation of the toilet bowl with the sewer and wake all the compounds with silicone sealant.

19. Install the toilet seat, as it is provided by its design. If necessary, adjust the seat so that it exactly corresponds to the form of the toilet.

20. Apply silicone sealant around the base of the toilet. Complete all the irregularities with a wet sponge, achieving a neat look.

How to install the toilet with your own hands - step-by-step photo instruction


Follow our step-by-step instructions and you will learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands and what is necessary for this

How to independently install the toilet

Having "straight" hands, most of the work on the house can be made independently. This category of work includes the installation of the toilet. Knowing a sequence of action installation or replacement can be made with your own hands.

Installation of the toilet with your own hands - the task of the average difficulty

Types of toilet bowls

In this article, we consider consider not the peculiarities of the washes or shape of the bowl, but those, features of the design, which determine the list of installation work.

By Montaja method

The toilet itself consists of a plumbing bowl and a drain tank. A bowl may be floor mounting or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank goes hidden editing - built into the wall. In the case of an outdoor bowl, there are three versions of the tank mounting: on a special shelf on a bowl (compact), separate, connected with the help of a flexible hose, in installation (hidden in the frame wall).

Typical dimensions of toilet bowls of different designs

The dignity of the outdoor toilet with a conventional drain tank is the simplicity of installation. It can be installed not starting repairs. The disadvantage - compared to the suspension, it takes more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, there are complex models in the suspended models - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps this is only during repair.

Issue in sewer

The choice of toilet bowl in the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They are:

  • with horizontal release;
  • oblique release;
  • vertical.

Types of issues (outputs) toilet bowl

If the pipe is in the floor, the optimal will be the vertical release. If the exit in the floor, but is close to the wall, it is more convenient than oblique toilet bowl. The horizontal version is universal. Using the corrugated nozzle, it can be connected to the wall and in the floor.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a bunch of compact (outdoor option)

From the store usually brought separately bowl of toilet bowl, tank, drainage device and float. Before installing toilet bowl, everything except the float must be collected.

What is the floor toilet with a Bach type "Compact"

Begins the process from the installation of a drain device. It goes in the assembled form, it is only required to install in the hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is stacked between the drain and tank.

We establish a drain mechanism inside the tank, putting a pre-rubber gasket

From the reverse side, the plastic washer is screwed into the nozzle. It is tightened with hands, then - using the key, but very carefully, as it is easy to break the plastic. So that the drainage device does not spin, it must be with hand.

Gently tighten the nut

The next step is to install fastening screws to the tank. They are also included in the staffing. These are long thin screws from galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes on the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets put on, then the washers and only then screw the nuts.

Install the fastening screws on the tank

Before installing the tank on the bowl of the toilet bowl, the gasket (in the kit) is stacked under the tank. So that the smells did not smell from the sewage, it must be "put" on the sealant. We observe first on the one hand, we put on the toilet, we scroll on the other, put the tank.

We mark the gasket with Silicon, put on the toilet

Missing on the other hand

Install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the appropriate holes. From the bottom to the screws wear washers, nuts, tighten. Make sure that the tank stood smoothly.

Install the tank on the bowl

Next, we put the float - the water level control device in the tank. At the top of the tank there are two holes. Here in one of them and insert the device. It is mounted on the side with which the plumbing will be connected.

Put in the tank float

On the outlet nozzle we swell a little flax, we wash the plumbing paste, set the corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not score that the plastic pipe.

Installation on the floor

The toilet almost collected, you can put in place. To the sewage toilet is connected using a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that are tightly sit in the pipes and to issue a toilet bowl.

Corrugation to connect toilet to sewage

If the sewer tube is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the cast iron is still not new, so that the smell does not flick through the microcracks, the pipe is clean to metal, wash and dried. A layer of sealant is applied to dry clean metal around the circumference (at the bottom a little more), then insert the corrugation. For greater confidence, you can walk the sealant and outside the connection.

In order for the installation of the toilet to the old cast iron was a hermetic, under the corrugation you can lay a layer of sealant

In any case, insert the corrugation in the sewer tube.

Insert the corrugation until you stop

The second end of the corrugation is put on the release of the toilet. This is the connection to the toilet to the sewage. Everything is so simple. Only there is one nuance. To then be removed, the output of the corrugation and the release of the toilet is smeared with soap moistened in water, only the fools are put on. If this is not done, remove the toilet, without damaging the corrugation, it will be problematic. But you will have to drill holes under fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, and not try to move partially fixed instrument.

Nadiv Corrugation for the release, exhibit the toilet as it will stand. By installing a cover on the tank, check the place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, adjust the position. Then take a pencil or marker, inserting into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.

Celebrate places for fasteners

After removing the toilet, the openings under the dowel are drilled in the marked places. If the set is plastic fastener, do not use it - it will break in a few days. We must immediately put powerful dowels.

If the toilet toilet is installed on the tile so that it does not cracked, the glazed surface is better to put it. Take the touch, put in a mark, several times beat the hammer on it. This is called "Land". Then take a drill or perforator and drill the tile by turning off the shock mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Drill holes under fasteners

In the holes put plastic tubes from the dowels. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it with a sharp knife.

We swell the floor, removing the dust at the installation site of the toilet bowl. We put it in place, insert a dowel into the holes, twist them with the help of the corresponding key. Tightening the bolts must be alternately on the one hand, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet will become firmly without a backlash.

Latest barcode - connection to the water supply. Connect the output of the tap pipe with a crane installed on it with a bunch on a tank, which was previously connected. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are cape nuts (American), so that there will be no problems with the fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a suspended toilet with installation

To install hanging toilet bowls, the output of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but must be small - from the far edge of about 13-15 cm. If the outlet out of the floor, there is a solution - a special pad, with which the stock is moved closer to the wall.

Installation of the suspension toilet begins with mounting to the frame of installation of the stops into the wall. They are attached two top and bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.

Install the upper stops

The upper stops have the type of rods, are adjustable using an end key and screwdriver. The lower stops are more similar to the plates, they are also adjusted by the end key but with the side arrangement of the head.

Lower stops and height adjustment

The collected frame is attached to the wall, its center is exhibited over the middle of the sewer exit. The label on the frame rises or descends to the desired manufacturer height (there is a frame on the frame, also indicated in the passport, it is usually 1 meter).

Put in height and from the wall

With the help of a bubble level, the horizontal and verticality of the installation installation for the suspension toilet is checked.

Adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall specified by the manufacturer is set. How it is convenient to do, look at the photo.

Set the set distance to the wall

The displayed frame must be fixed to the wall. In the appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drilled holes. They are installed plastic hulls of dowels. Most of the suspended toilet bowls of imported production, and they recommend the hulls of the dowels to plant the sealant. In the drilled hole, some part of the sealant is squeezed, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is superimposed in the plastic case.

In fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - nozzles, couplings. All of them are included, just fixed in their places.

Mounted nozzles and couplings

Tank and sewage pipes are installed

Next, metal rods are installed on which the bowl of the toilet will hold. They are screwed into the appropriate nests, on top on the silicone seals (on the bottom photo it is two rods over the sewer output).

Toilet holders are installed, sewage pipe is fixed.

The sewage pipe is put forward at the desired distance, fixed in a specified position using a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Then water is connected to the tank. Open the tank cover (it is on latches), the plug on the side surface is removed. On the right or left - it depends on where the water is supplied. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opening hole, the response part is inserted from the inside, everything connects with the help of a cape nut. It is necessary to delay without applying excessive efforts - it is plastic.

Connecting installation to water supply

A tee is installed inside the tank, the pipe is connected to the desired output (usually plastic). Do it with the help of adapter and American.

Connecting a tap pipe

A hose from the tank is connected to the special input of the tee. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightening with a cape nut.

Connect the hose from the tank

Install the lid. In principle, installation for the toilet is established. Now it is necessary to close it. To do this, make a falseland from moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is recommended to put two sheets, but one can and one. Hyposparboard is attached to the installation frame and to mounted profiles.

Fastening Fallest to the Frame of Installation MUST

The toilet is put on the pins, its release enters the plastic socket. The compound is sealed, additional measures are not required. This installation of the installation with installation is completed.

Installation of the toilet with your own hands: Outdoor, suspended with installation, instruction with photos, video


Independent installation of the toilet will save a solid amount of money. You can install an outdoor model and suspended with your own hands, with installation.

Installing the toilet with your own hands

If you first thought about the installation of the toilet, this article is for you. And it is better if you have time to read it before it goes to the store for a new "faience friend" or before the start of the finishing finish in the room of the toilet.

The fact is that modern toilets are so different that they strongly differ the type of fastening, washing, the supply of sewage, etc. So, Ideally, plan what kind of toilet it is to be installed with your own hands, you need to start at the toilet design.

Installing the toilet with your own hands

And what to do if there is an old "throne" in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding the world flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, step-by-step guide and several tips from the masters will help save money and mount the toilet with their own hands without any problems.

Planning space indoor toilet

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the peculiarities of the toilet bowl, which is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

  • it is necessary to dismantle the toilet, which served his own and pursue the overhaul in the toilet (including cladding, repair and supply of sewer communications and the tie of the floor);
  • what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - whether it will not climb the space and whether it will allow you to relax to open your door;
  • what is the mount from your future toilet;
  • what is the method of draining to the toilet;
  • at what height you want to install plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, it remains only to disassemble the old (if necessary) and the installation of a new toilet bowl.

Recall that the floor plumbing is divided into several types. It varies with the shape and its device.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet to be dismantled is not wall mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. Remove it from the toilet will be able to only 7 steps.

  1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

Before breaking the toilet, you need to turn off the water supply and unscrew the tank

Dismantling of old toiletza

If the neck is disconnected from the pipe, and the toilet is glued with a solution to the floor, then it is necessary to take a chisel and neatly split the pedestal from the solution, can be parts

If there are no plans for the old toilet, and you escort it on the last path, then after swinging it can split a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to endure it. You will also have to do in the event that it is cemented by the attachments of the old plumbing.

After dismantling the toilet, estimate the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron creates many problems, before installing the new plumbing, it is recommended to change them on plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing the toilet and the wiring of the sewer plums.

Independent installation of plumbing "By steps"

Toiletz for normal operation is needed smooth, lined or specially prepared surface of walls and gender.

  1. First, blocking the toilet with corrugations connect with the tap of the sewer pipe-rising. You can also use a hard pipe. The best option is if the blocking of the toilet is included in the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal a drain, we use a ring with rubber border. It is important to consider that the rubber does not tolerate on its surface of cement and similar sharews. But the sealant is quite suitable.

Installation of toilet - cuff

We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

Then take the corrugated pipe and also apply silicone sealant

Install the corrugation in the pipe

Then gently injecting the toilet and install its output to the corrugated pipe seal

In order to wash water during washing floors, this place can be sealed with silicone sealant

Fix on the floor: 3 types of fasteners

  1. The first option for floor installation is anchors laced in the screed. During the fill of the floor in place, where the toilet and its attachments will be located, long anchors are fixed. After the screed dry and the floor finish will be carried out, the toilet on the anchor. This is the most difficult way of fastening, as it is difficult to install an anchor so smooth that the toilet to get on them without problems. It often happens that inexperienced builders choose too short anchor, for which then it is impossible to wind the nuts. The anchor mixed into the floor should be at least 7 cm above the finish surface to fasten the toilet to it. Under all nuts, gaskets are required so that the surface of the toilet is not lightering.
  2. The second version of the reliable fastening of the toilet toilet on the surface at the surface of the toilet is an installation on a wooden basis. The main thing is that the board strictly coincides with the size of the toilet base. When pouring the floor, the board is prepared, scoring nails into it. Then it is placed in a solution with nails down. After drying the screed and decoration of the room, the toilet, pre-planted on the epoxy resin layer, is screwed to the blackboard using conventional screws. They also need rubber or polymer gaskets.

Fasten the toilet bowl with a wall tank without screws, one resin. True, with this method of fastening, it is necessary to predetermine the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using "epoxies" it is important to give freshly installed plumbing to dry and fasten on the floor surface.

Mounting toilet to the wall

How to Install Installation

Outboard toilets are used more and more. The installation is not much more complicated by the usual (by the way, you can read on our own toilet installation on our website). Wall toilet, as it is clear from its name, will not have contacts with the floor surface. It is suspended with a metal frame, which is attached to the carrier wall itself. Tank and toilet pipes in this case are behind a false-wall from drywall. If the hinged plumber has an open tank, then it will turn it out on the wall itself, but then the sewer tube must be inside the wall. Hold the design will be the same anchors embedded in the wall or into the carrier frame.

Installing the toilet to the pedestal

After fixing the bowl of the toilet on the wall or on the floor, it remains only to collect a toilet. On the basis, the tank is already reliably fixed, the trumpet from the tank hanging on the wall is supplied to it.

Installing the toilet to the pedestal

It remains only to check whether the toilet works, and there is no leaks. We turn on the cold water, we wait until the tank is filled by adjusting the level of filling. We configure the instructions to the locking mechanism. We wash and look, does not flow from plum.

The last action is to fasten the stoolchak. But here you are probably already cope with yourself.

  1. Before buying plumbing, first decide with the suggestive type of drain. If you do not plan to change the supply of sewage riser, you need to choose the same type that in the worker who has spent its toilet. Remember: no adapters will help you to qualitatively connect the toilet with an unsuitable type of removal.
  2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of the toilet at the final moment of repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
  3. Do not regret money on nickel-plated bolts and anchor for fastening the floor toilet or to the wall. They do not rust, which means, exclude ugly drips and bolts.

Installation of the toilet, with their own hands, was successful

Installation of the toilet with your own hands - step by step instructions!


Find out how the installation of the toilet is performed with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions, lessons, photos + video and best advice from professionals!

Sometimes you have to replace the sanitary equipment, without waiting for repair in the apartment. The slightest chip, crack can lead to serious consequences. Yes, and the quality of water, even with due cleaning, leave unsightly traces of rust. Installation of the toilet with your own hands is quite for any person. You can, of course, invite masters from specialized services. However, a considerable amount in the family budget is saved with an independent installation. The article selected the most detailed instructions and recommendations for the choice and replacement of the toilet.

Read in the article:

Basics of proper planning space in the toilet

In order for the layout of space in the restroom, it was most comfortable as possible, it is important to adhere to some rules:

  1. The distance from the side wall, washbasin or bathtub to the toilet must be at least 25 cm.
  2. the distance in front of the toilet should be left about 60 cm.

The layout will be affected by the size of the new plumbing, the mounting options, the drain method and the height of the placement of the toilet bowl. Knowing how to install the toilet properly, you can start choosing and planning the placement of the rest of the plumbing in the restroom.

Basics of proper selection of toilet bowl for home

The optimal solution when replacing the old toilet will be the choice of similar equipment. It is important that the principle of fastening and the place of plum of new equipment was identical to the old. It is desirable that the plum angle coincides with the angle of release of the already installed sewer pipe. Otherwise, it will be necessary to establish an additional corrugation or fragments of pipes from the new toilet to the old compound.

Modern equipment can be classified into the following types:

Division in the form of structural nodesViews
In the form of plumHorizontal;
At an angle of 45 °
Vertical
In the form of a bowlTarldy
Visor
Voronko-shaped
On the shape of the attachment of the tankCombined with toilet
Piece of wall
On fastening to the floor surfaceFixed 2 points
Fixing for 4 points
Fixing at special corners

Installation of the toilet with your own hands: Main nuances and recommendations

The process of installing the toilet can be divided into several stages:

  • selection of new equipment;
  • dismantling of old;
  • repair when the sewer system is needed or the replacement of individual elements. In addition, it may be necessary to replace facing tiles;
  • installing a new toilet bowl, Connecting a tank to the water supply.

Consider a step by step all the installation process.

What tools will be required to install the toilet

Before work, the following tools will be required:

  • perforator;
  • yardstick;
  • adjustable and wrench;
  • hose plumbing flexible;
  • tape-fum;
  • fasteners;
  • silicone sanitary sealant.

For installation of the installation system, additional tools and attachments will be needed. The whole set can be easily purchased in any trading point, which is engaged in the implementation of sanitary equipment.

Dismantling of old toiletza

Replacing the toilet with your own hands can hide some difficulties in itself. Consider the entire process of step by step with recommendations for overcoming possible difficulties:

  1. Before starting work, it is necessary to overlap the flow of water to the tank.
  2. Make the water from the tank and make sure that its feed is stopped.
  3. Disconnect the drain hose.
  4. Unscrew the tank mounts to the toilet bowl.
  5. Unscrew the fastenings of the toilet to the floor.
  6. Disconnect the bowl from the drain hole in the sewer pipe. If the equipment has been established for a long time and plums are blocked by cement, using a hammer and a screwdriver to destroy cement mortar. Before disconnecting the toilet, it is necessary to merge the water from the knee. To do this, it needs to be tilted several times in different directions.
  7. After all manipulations, the toilet can be removed.
  8. The sewer hole is necessary to close the plug or cloth.


Preparation of a new toilet to install

Before installing the toilet to the tiled floor, it is necessary to check the surface at the level. It should not have slopes and drops. In the case of replacing the facing or installation of the toilet bowl in the new room, you must first pour the screed over the level and finish the cafeter. Also, it will not be superfluous to carry out an inventory of the sewer.

How to establish a regular toilet with your own hands: step-by-step guide

After the preparatory work, you can start installing new equipment. Pre carefully read the instructions:

IllustrationDescription of work
Collect and fix the drain system in the drain tank. Before installing, wrapping the gasket with silicone.
Install the toilet tank installation, pre-install the rubber gasket between them. Before fixing the tank, bolts wash with silicone and put conical rubber washers.
Then you need to fasten the tube with a float. Securely fix it from below.
Install the bowl in place. At the same time, you need to insert the corrugation into the sewer hole in order to make measurements and outline the product on the contour, mark the holes for the anchor bolts. Rubber corrugated sealant and toilet cleaner can be wrapped in sealant for reliability.
Using a drill in the tile drill, corresponding to the diameter of the dowel included.
To drill holes in the screed, it is necessary to replace the drill in the perforator to the car similar diameter. To control it, it is necessary to note the power of the strip along the length of the dowel.
In the holes to drive the dowels, and install equipment in place. Then fasten with screws with plastic gaskets. When tightening the key, you must be extremely neat, as you can damage the ceramic product. At the end of work on the screws to install plastic plugs.
Latest to connect the water supply hose.
It is necessary to check several times the tank filling and the absence of leakage. At this stage, you can set the float to adjust the tank filling level for an economical water consumption. After all manipulations, fasten the lid to the drain tank.
To install the seat, you need to install gaskets on the brackets, secure them, insert into the toilet holes and fix the special washer from the bottom.

The whole process of installing the toilet with your own hands can be viewed on the video:

Installing a toilet with a hidden tank

The improvement of the sanitary room can be performed taking into account modern technologies and maximum comfort. For the most demanding owners, equipment is offered with a hidden drain tank. It fits perfectly into the latest interior solutions. You can choose an outdoor model or suspended box frame. Installation installation Installation can be divided into 2 stages: Installation of the drain tank and the installation of the toilet bowl.


Installation of wallile toilet on installation

Before installing installation, you must perform marking on the wall. To do this, with the help of the roulette and the level, determine the location of the central axis, then measure the perimeter of the installation from it. It is important that the distance from the edge of the tank to the wall was at least 135 mm. You also need to note the attachment points of the equipment. The level will help accurately determine the horizontal and vertical lines.

Article on the topic:

To understand, and how to choose a suspension toilet for it, in this article we will look at the features of different types, selection criteria and several popular manufacturers of this type of equipment.

You should know! Installing the built-in toilet with installation is possible only on the bearing wall.

After performing markup, you need to drill holes for future fastening using a perforator. Then insert anchors in them and secure the basis of the modular design. After installation, you must once again check the level and align the system with height controllers and plugs.

Next you can install the tank. Fastening should be performed by special compounds that were included in the equipment kit. After that, you can connect the system to the water supply. With the help of a plastic clamp, attach the output of the sewage and process all connections to silicone.

To mount the toilet, you must perform the following steps:

  • screw the pins in pre-drilled holes;
  • on the studs to put the clutches;
  • nozzles check for compliance with sizes;
  • before installing bowls for amortization, you need to install a silicone or rubber laying;
  • install equipment and view all compounds for leakage;
  • connect and fix with a cream hose clamp.

After mounting the structure, it is important that the distance from the edge of the modular system to the wall surface does not exceed 210 mm. Otherwise, after installing the false panels, the bolts are not enough to fix the toilet bowl.


Step-by-step process, how to install the toilet correctly, will demonstrate this video:

Installation of outdoor models

Installation with your own hands installing with floor toilet differs from suspended only to install the bowl:

  • first of all, the position of the knee should be fixed using metal fasteners;
  • issue to treat silicone;
  • install equipment and perform circuit marking and holes on the floor;
  • remove the bowl and set the corners on the markup;
  • install the bowl in place, gently press release into the pipe, fix the equipment to the floor with the help of bolts that were included;
  • after installation, you can connect the tank in the same way as in the suspension system;
  • at the final stage, output the drain button into the hole prepared in advance on the panel.

Assembling outdoor toilet with your own hands, you can watch the video below:

Main types of fasteners to the floor

The bowl can be installed in several ways:

  • when installing on a pedestal (tile) on 2 or 4 dowels. For reliability when installing a slightly drop sealant in the holes and make a silicone pillow along the contour of the equipment;
  • anchors installed in the tie of the floor when pouring. The method does not allow errors. It is important to choose the desired anchor length so that you can then screw the nut when installing the toilet;
  • on a wooden substrate - This method was used in the former times. It should be borne in mind that the humidity in the bathroom is increased;
  • on the corners that are fixed on the floor. The mount is performed through the side openings in the leg of the equipment;
  • on glue. The floor surface is processed by sandpaper to increase the clutch, then it must be deguted with any solvent. According to the previously applied circuit, the legs of the equipment are applied with epoxy glue with a thickness of 4 mm and more. The equipment is neatly installed, with the simultaneous combination of drain and sewage pipe. After 12 hours you can use the restroom.

Main types of fasteners to the wall

The mounting equipment is made only to the carrier surface of the wall with a metal frame. Flat drain tank and tubular junction are for a false-roll plaster plate. Metal frame and toilet bowls are attached to anchors embedded in the carrier wall.

Main types of toilet toilet connections

To attach bowls to sewage, you need to select pipeline fittings based on the size and installation option. Installation of reinforcement should be performed before fixing the equipment to the floor. Consider the basic options for connections, their differences and installation recommendations.

Fan tube or plastic pipe

The fan tube is used in the case when vacuum is possible in the sewage system to prevent the dispersion of the hydraulication and penetration of unpleasant odors to the room. Pipe installation is recommended in multi-storey houses with a large number of water intake points.

Manufacturers offer eccentric and pipe fittings with check valve, which work on the principle similar to the work of the fan pipe.

It is made in the form of a one-piece element. When selecting it is important to choose a product with a diameter that coincides with the place of connection of the equipment. In case of improper selection of diameter, it is impossible to fix the flashes.


Eccentric

Cuffs consist of 2 pipes with a shifted center, interconnected by soldering. With this connection, you can quickly and easily connect to the toilet to sewage. It is important before starting work to decide on the required length.

A durable connection provides a sealing ring, so when connected to plastic sewage there is no need to use additionally sealant. It will be needed in the case of connecting to the pipes from the cast iron.

Eccentric cuffs are not suitable for each compound, in case of finding elements of docking at a high distance, it is recommended to use corrugations.


Corrugation

Corrugated cuff is an ideal connection for complex and non-standard connections. Before installing the corrugation to the toilet, it is necessary to choose the goods of proper quality. Savings in this case will be insignificant, but damage is very tangible. You can choose a reinforced corrugation, it will significantly extend the service life.


How to connect toilet to sewage: connectivity features

Before collecting the toilet, it is necessary to determine which form of the release is preferable and the acquired toilet model corresponds to it. It is important to know the features and nuances of connecting each release.

Bathroom with vertical release

This installation is possible in new homes or private housing, in which the pipe wiring is made under the floor. Vertical release eliminates the possibility of blockages and leaks. In addition, this design makes it possible to bring the equipment to the wall as much as possible.

Before starting the installation into the hole on the sewage pipe, it should be fixed with a special flange dowels.

Important! The axis of fixing elements should be perpendicular to the axis of the equipment bowl.

To prevent unpleasant odors from the sewer, follow the sealing gum to lubricate the sealant. After that install and consolidate the toilet.


Bathroom with horizontal release

Connection using horizontal release is similar to installation on corrugation. You can, like with a vertical, bring the equipment to the wall as much as possible. Its main difference - before installation it is necessary to install a rigid system that will connect sanitary equipment with a sewage riser.

When installing the toilet, you will need the help of the second person, so that when installing the nozzle, do not shift the elements of the sewer system. Before starting work, it is necessary to install the toilet to place, mark the places of fastening elements, after which it is removed and drilled with a perforator of the opening of the desired diameter. After that, install dowels and put a bowl in place.

Pipe and a hole of the sewer pipe with a sealant. Before installing the mount, you need to make several trial plots on the definition of leakage.

In contemporary apartments, instead of a rigid connection, corrugations are more often used. It is more mobile, with its use you can move the design without installing additional fittings.


Bowl with oblique release

Its installation is easiest to produce with an assistant. Installation is similar to a horizontal release with a nozzle. You must first mark the markup, then drill holes, install the dowels, put the bowl and fix it. If the leakage occurred after the test plum, it is necessary to miss the compounds with silicone and leave for some time until complete drying. Due to the bias of 45 ° decreases the possibility of leaks.


Water Connection to Toilet Bach

After fixing the tank to the toilet, water must be connected. It is recommended that it is recommended to install a blocking crane for regulating water supply to the tank, with which in the case of work, it is possible without compromising the other points of water intake in the apartment to repair equipment.

After that, the flexible hose is to screw to the tank outlet and to the central water supply pipe. It is possible for the strength of the connection to apply special seals or tape-fum.


Approximate prices for installation work

In order to choose a plan for installation, you can seek help in a serving organization or to a firm that is engaged in sanitary work. It is important to conclude a contract and register warranty deadlines for installation work.

We give the estimated prices for basic work on re-equipment of the bathroom:

Additionally, you may need tools for prior consultation, replacement of sewage pipes and equipment adjustment. The amount in the end is not small. Independent installation, significantly saves personal funds that can be investigated in the acquisition of better equipment.


Conclusion

You will need:

  • toilet with tank and reinforcement;
  • a set of fasteners and flexible liner;
  • eccentric cuff or corrugation;
  • transition cuff 123 × 110 mm (for connecting to a cast-iron calculation);
  • gas burner or construction hairdryer (for disconnecting pig-iron pipe);
  • tile glue or remission (for sealing holes in the floor);
  • perfederator or shock drill;
  • concrete drill with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm;
  • kaffle drill 8 or 10 mm;
  • set of wrench and hacksaw;
  • hammer and dowels;
  • roulette and marker;
  • screwdrivers and knife;
  • silicone sealant and rag;
  • bucket and sponge;
  • universal lubricant WD-40 or analog (if necessary).

If you install a new toilet, and do not change - go to the next item.

YouTube Channel "On DA4E"

Discharge the tap at the entrance to the tank or (if there is no) the tap at the entrance to the apartment. Remove the flexible liner, and then press the drain button. Type the water bucket and dramatically pour it into a toilet to the toilet so that the remnants of impurcts inside the siphon. With the help of a sponge, remove water from the bowl.


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Remove the fastening screws to the toilet with which is screwed to the floor. Cut the sealant in the perimeter of the base of the bowl. Remove the corrugation from the release of the siphon and move the toilet. And the sewage of the sewage is plugged with the package or the wind, so that the smell does not penetrate into the room.


If plumbing is very old, the process of dismantling will be more difficult. First unscrew the mounting bolts, if necessary, sprinkling them WD-40. Then reassure the cement chasing on the perimeter of the cast iron sewage pipe, preheated with its burner or construction hairdryer, and remove the toilet.

It is sometimes easier to split an ancient plumber with a hammer or a perforator, and then remove fragments from the sewer tube. Deciding for radical measures, do not forget to wear safety glasses.

Using the repair makeup or tile glue, fill in the resulting deepening and wait 6-12 hours until it is frozen.

3. Collect the reinforcement of the tank


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Unpack the toilet and carefully examine the instructions. Spread all the details on the cardboard from the box not to scratch. Put on the threads of the drain and bay valves cone gaskets narrow part towards the holes.


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Install the valves into place and wrap with plastic nuts from hand, and then another quarter of turns using the key. Make sure that the drain valve does not concern the walls of the tank (otherwise the float will stall and will not block the water when filling). To do this, check it out by hand or turn the tank.

4. Install the tank on the bowl


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Put the largest rubber gasket on the shelf and put the tank on top, aligning the hole for fastening. Put on the bolts of tapered washers narrow down and insert fasteners into the holes.


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Install the plastic and metal washers below, and then tighten the nuts from the hand evenly so that the tank gets up without distortion. Put on the cover on the tank, insert and wrap the drain button.


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Next, decide on the location of the new toilet bowl. Move the bowl in place, try to sit down. To save space, you can most close up to the wall, but not close - it is desirable to leave a 2-3 cm gap between it and the tank.


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Align the plums with sewage sewage. If you use a straight pipe to connect, measure the roulette and cut the desired fragment. Remove burrs on the edge. If you use corrugations or an eccentric cuff - try on how they become.


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Remove the sewage or rag from the dugout. Lubricate the sealing ring in the squabble soap or and insert the pipe into it, and then in it - blocking the toilet. Install the corrugation or eccentric cuff.


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In the old cast iron sewage, insert a special transition cuff with a diameter of 123 × 110 mm in purified and lubricated sealant sealant. For reliability, you can additionally launches with silicone butt with a plastic pipe with a cuff.

7. Attach the toilet to the floor


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Move the bowl on the provided place and marker mark the mounting holes on the floor. If in the toilet bowl hidden brackets, circle the lower part around the perimeter, and then measure the desired distance from the edge according to the drawing in the instructions.


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Drill holes in the floor. First, the tile using a special drill for ceramics, and then the corresponding brown. Remove dust and insert a dowel into the holes.


Apply Silicon Snake along the perimeter of the toilet, without reaching the edge of 2-3 cm, and wait about 20 minutes until it frost.


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Then install the plumbing in place and, putting on the fastening bolts of plastic washers, wrap them with the key. Do not overdo the ceramics to burst, it is better to pull the fastening later if necessary. Put the decorative plugs on the heads of the bolts.


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Fill the joint of the bowl with tiles with a sealant. Remove the surplus with your finger or napkin and let me dry. It is better to use a transparent silicone, because white yellowes and gets dirt over time.

If under the tile are pipes or it is impossible to drill the tile for other reasons, you can simply glue the toilet to silicone.

For this, the surface should be perfectly smooth, clean and dry, and before the use of new plumbing, you need to wait at least a day until the sealant is completely frozen.


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Using a flexible liner, connect the bulk valve fitting with a crane next to the tank. Place the hose in such a way as to avoid inflection and tension. Wrap the nuts with the key, but not very much - they pressed only rubber gaskets.

9. Install Stulchak


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Collect fittings. If there are labels "left" and "right", do not confuse. Insert rubber sleeves into the holes, install the eccentric on top and adjust the distance between them in the width of the stool holes.


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Tighten the fastening bolts with plastic beds. Put the decorative lining on the rubber part of the eccentrics and set them the lid before clicking.


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Open the tank crane, wait until it is filled, and make sure the valve overlaps the water supply. Press the drain button. Make sure there is no flexible supply on the nuts, as well as the plum connection with the pipe or corrugation and the withdrawal of the sewage.