High-quality ceiling insulation in the house allows you to keep warm in cool weather and do not give to warm the room into frying. Heat the ceiling in a private house - it means to win economically and increase the level of comfort. But how to insulate the ceiling for less? The market offers a large selection of solutions for this.

First steps with ceiling insulation: general rules

Ceiling insulation The necessary event, despite high labor costs. As a result, the owner will receive comfortable accommodation conditions at low fuel consumption for heating in winter.

How to insulate the ceiling in the house? Main rules:

1. Choosing an eco-friendly and safe material.
2. The insulation must be from non-flammable material.
3. The material must have not only thermal insulation properties at a high level, but also not to break the natural humidity. That is, I have to breathe.
4. The material should not be exposed to moisture.

Note! Only adherence to all parameters guarantees high quality heat insulation after work.

Preparatory work: the choice of material

The above criteria corresponds to 5 materials. They are recommended for use when installing the thermal insulating layer on the ceiling of the private house with their own hands:

1. Styrofoam. The polymer for which the fire safety and the lack of susceptibility to moisture is characteristic.
2. Penosole. Polymer with a porous structure, which has an unlimited life.
3. Mineral wool. Feature - absorbs moisture, so water in one or another should not fall on it. The most popular material.
4. Equata. Saves heat not worse than mineral counterpart. Produced on the basis of cellulose.
5. Ceramzit. Made based on clay - natural component. Dignity - rodents never come in it. In addition, the ceramzite is not afraid of moisture. Bulk.

Only 2 last material are natural. But the rest also do not have a negative impact on human health.

You can create a warm ceiling by budget funds that are always on hand in excess:

1. Slag. Negatively affects the service life of overlaps. Rades a small proportion of radiation.
2. Sawdust. With time, the insects are spoiled, losing some of the properties.
3. Dry grass. Promotes the institution of insects and rodents.

Economical decisions have drawbacks, however, have the right to use in non-permanent housing and economic buildings of an old type, where large means are sorry to invest - dachas, old houses or in the bath.

Mounting insulation: location options

The main heat loss in the house occur through the ceiling of the last floor, over which the attic is located with the roof. Accordingly, the method of mounting insulation 2:

1. Outer.
2. Interior.

The desired result gives both ways. But there are differences. They conclude not only in the features of the installation, but also from what materials are used. Namely:

• Paramotable.
• Waterproofing.

That is, it is how the material can work with moisture - to absorb and skip it or repel it. For decoration inside the room use vapor-permeable material, and outside the repellent water.

It is used if there is no attic on the residential floor. Required:

1. Install the framework. As a rule, from a tree, on the floor of the attic. The final construction depends on the insulation material.
2. Fill the frame of the heat insulating material.

In this layer, the insulation can not be touched. However, if the attic is periodically used in domestic needs and in its sex you have to go, then the insulation of the layer is required to cover:

• Concrete.
• Plywood or clapboard.

Internally insulation

If there is a regularly used room, in the form of an attic or warehouse, it is advisable to apply an internal insulation design. Disadvantages of the method:

1. Thoughtfulness.
2. Reduced wall height.

Note! With the internal method of laying insulation, waterproofing will be required, between the insulation and the ceiling. It is needed if a vapor-permeable material is applied.

When building a new house, if the project was not provided in the internal insulation, it suffices to make changes to the project. But for the already introduced house, it may become a problem, especially with a low ceiling height. And if the design of the ceiling of wood can be changed, then the concrete ceiling cannot be changed.

For work, a framework is also formed, which is filled with insulation. The design is then closed with plasterboard.

Note! The feature of the use of wool (mineral and eco) is that it cannot be contacted to reduce thickness. It contains pores that reduce its thermal conductivity. Therefore, it should be used with caution during interior decoration.

Examples of performance

Each material is unique and stacked on the ceiling it is necessary in its own, separate technology. Required materials and tools:

• Boards or metal profile for frame formation.
• Insulation.
• Tools for cutting.
• Fastening.
• Protection - glasses, respirator, gloves.

Nuances of the work:

1. There should be no discontinuities on the vapor. Including between the seams. Runs should be laid outlaughter.
2. The range of distances between the rails should be less than 1-2 cm. The width of the insulation sheet. The height of the frame - by 1-2 cm. Above the thickness of the insulation to ensure air circulation to the waterproofing layer from above.

Below are the methods of insulation of the ceiling by popular insulation.

Bulk material that has gained popularity as a thermal insulating floor layer. Recently, it is used as an inexpensive insulation on the ceiling. Characteristics:

• Not subject to oxidation, including burning.
• Harmful substances do not highlight.
• Does not attract rodents and is not covered with fungus.
• Given the cotton and foam in the heat insulating properties.
• Heavy. Apply only on strong ceilings with support beams.

Installation technology:

1. On the floor, the attic rims a layer of vapor insulation. You can use the usual film.
2. Niche between the beams fall asleep with clay. It is advisable to use fractions of different sizes to form multiple layers. Thickness - at least 20 cm. When cold climates - from 40 cm.
3. The material is aligned.
4. Vaporizolation is mounted on top.
5. Floor laying.

Alternative material - foam glass. It is better kept warm.

This material is called liquid foam. Special additives make it non-combustible and scare rodents. Failure to install - need qualified workers with equipment that can be improved correctly.

Technology is simple. On the vaporizolator, pre-shy, foaming the thickness of the layer layer 20-30 cm. When necessary, you can mount the floor from above.

the insulation of the ceiling overlap of mineral wool is the most popular way. Easy is done with your own hands. Types of mineral wool:

1. Slag. Make from a domain slag. Inappropriate material for insulation due to increased hygroscopicity and high thermal conductivity.
2. Stone. Produce from rock with clay adding. Has low thermal conductivity.
3. Glasswater. It has the lowest thermal conductivity. Differs low cost. When hitting the mucous man causes irritation.

Installation order:

1. Put a steam insulating layer.
2. Mount the frame.
3. Put wool.
4. Attach the waterproofing to the cotton.

Polymer cellular material. By heat insulating properties, it is similar to glass. Properties of material:

1. Low cost.
2. Low weight.
3. Gulf, with a poisonous substance. When heated, they can also be allocated.
4. In it can reserve the rodent nest.
5. Promotes the greenhouse effect.

Installation options:

• With the skeleton.
• On glue.

The frame of the foam falls like a method with cotton. However, it is necessary to pre-apply liquid nails on the frame racks and the top of the foam. Installation with glue:

1. Stripping and washing surface surface. It will take primer.
2. On the upper part of the foam should be glued and press the sheet to the surface of the ceiling.
3. The glued sheets are covered with a layer of plaster, and then strengthened with reinforcing fiber. From above, it also goes to the plaster.

In order to independently insulate the ceiling, the knowledge of the university level is not needed. It is enough to understand the scheme of the ceiling device, know the types of heat insulators used and the methods of their installation.

How to choose a material for ceiling insulation

The ceiling insulation will significantly reduce the costs of heating the living quarters. The main heat leakage occurs through the upper and lower overlap of the house, so you need to pay attention to both. It should be understood that the insulation of the attic overlap requires a more thorough approach than the inter-storey. The fact is that the first will always be colder, as there is a roof next to him.

When choosing heat-insulating materials, it is necessary to take into account the following characteristics:

• thermal conductivity (than it is lower, the higher the quality will be insulation);
• water absorption coefficient (an important indicator that allows you to choose the least hygroscopic material);
• density and weight;
• class of flammability (optimal g1);
• ecology.

In a private house, the overlap can be either concrete or wooden. In the first case, bulk materials, foam, sprayed thermal insulators, dense mineral wool plates are used. For insulation of the wooden overlap, you can use any available materials with a low thermal conductivity coefficient. With such ceilings work easier and easier. Methods for mounting the same materials for concrete and wooden floors can be different.

GOST R 52952-2008. Materials and heat-insulating products. File for download.

In order to quickly determine the type of insulation, we recommend to familiarize yourself with the table.

Table. Characteristics of the most popular thermal insulation materials.

Material	Thermal conductivity coefficient (W / m * ° C)	Class of Culture	Density (kg / m3)
Polystyrene foam	0,035-0,039	Г2.	15-25
Styrofoam	0,025	Г2.	35-50
Mineral wool plates	0,035	NG (NIGHT)	250
Mineral wool	0,041	NG	125
Slag	-	NG	1000
Ceramzit	1,148	NG	500
Perlit	0,041	NG	40
Vermikulitis	0,05	NG	100
Wood-fibrous plates	0,09	Г2.	250
Sawdust	0,090-0,180	Г2.	25

Video - what and how to insulate the ceiling of the private house

Methods of ceiling insulation, their pros and cons

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house:

• internal;
• outdoor.

Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. If it is possible to achieve the best result you can use both.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Domestic

The insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room will require a suspended frame device from metal products or wooden bars. This method is unprofitable by the fact that significantly reduces the room space. Another minus is that it is necessary to work on top, keeping tools and materials on weight. It will require significant labor costs.

Internal insulation requires a device of high-quality vapor barrier, as the steam always rises up and must certainly leave the room. Otherwise, the overlap will inevitably dance, mold or fungus will appear on it. Therefore, when choosing insulating materials, it is important to take into account the coefficient of their vapor permeability.

Outdoor

The outer insulation of the ceiling is simpler, since in this case the construction of expensive and cumbersome suspended frame is not required. You can use any bulk materials with low thermal conductivity: sawdust, clayzit, slag, foam crumb, eclash. This method is often used when insulating the attic floors, if you do not plan to exploit the space under the roof.

In the event that the indoor type of indoor type is equipped, the outer insulation of the ceiling will simultaneously be a floor device. Therefore, to perform this task, the montage of the framework will be required and its subsequent sheathing with suitable durable materials: boards, plates of OSB, moisture resistant plywood.

Internal insulation technology of concrete ceiling in a private house

Concrete overlap is easiest to insulate the attic. The fact is that for the framework of the frame inside the residential premises it will be necessary to perform a complex of highly laborious work, which includes driving the numerous holes.

But if there is no other way out, you should prepare all the necessary tools:

• drill or perforator;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• construction bubble level;
• twine and marker for marking.

From materials will need:

• metal profile for works with plasterboard (can be replaced by wooden bruises with a cross section of 40/40 mm);
• suspensions for fixing metal products (narrow perforated metal strips);
• connecting elements - "crabs" used when mounting frames for suspended ceilings;
• insulation (sheet foam, rolled materials, mineral wool plates);
• framework panels (moisture resistant plywood, osb, plasterboard);
• parosolation membrane (film).

Prices for screwdelt

screwdriver

Stages of the device of the suspended frame and insulation

Step 1. Application. In order to fulfill this task correctly, you need to understand what the framework scheme. It consists of longitudinal and transverse racks interconnected by crabs and fixed on the ceiling by suspension.

In order to facilitate the task of insulation of concrete overlap, you need to choose such a distance between the longitudinal racks so that in the openings between them you can put the insulation cloves without additional cutting. But it should be taken into account that it should not exceed 80 cm, since in this case the design will be unstable.

Marking is applied to all four adjacent walls. The easiest way to pull the cord from the angle to the angle, checking the correct direction using a bubble level. After that, mark the markup directly to the ceiling itself.

Step 2. Installation of guides. For mounting a frame, two types of metal products are used: PN 28/27 and PP 60/27. First - guide. It is fixed in accordance with the lines of markup along the walls.

Step 3. Installing suspensions. In order for the frame to be firmly attached to the ceiling, the suspensions are installed at a distance of 80-90 cm from each other. The required number of holes drill on the ceiling in the right places.

Step 4. Installation of longitudinal and transverse frame racks. Metrated metal profile of PP 60/27 so that the location of each rack corresponds to the markup.

Step 5. Laying heat insulator. To maintain the material stacked between the frame racks, the legs of the suspensions are used, bending them in the desired direction.

Step 6. Laying vaporizolation membrane. At this stage of work, it is important not to disturb the integrity of the film by sharp objects. It is necessary to stretch it neatly, fixing on metal frame racks using double-sided tape.

Step 7. Frame covering. When performing this work, it is important to install the linen of the sheath so that the gaps between them are minimal. One-piece sheets must be fixed perpendicular to long guide profiles. The docking of sheets should be made in the middle of the profile. For high-quality fixing, work is better to perform together. Sheets are fastened with self-stakes, the latter are completely taken into the trimmate material by 2-3 mm. The step between self-drawers should be 25-30 cm (3-4 cm from each corner of sheets).

At the edges of the sheets, chips should not be formed when screwing the screws. If the damage still happened, the screws need to be removed, and in 3-4 cm screwed a new one.

Prices on the suspended ceiling

suspended ceiling

Important moment! Between the insulation and the trim, the ventilation gap should remain at least 1 cm. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate under the film.

Technology of outdoor insulation ceiling in a private house

The outer insulation of the upper overlap can be single-layer or multi-layer. Regardless of the chosen embodiment of the attic room, it is recommended to use materials with a slight weight. This applies to both wooden and concrete ceilings.

If it is planned to use a bulk material, it is necessary to correctly calculate the thickness of the layer. For sawdust, it is enough to 20-30 cm, for clay of 10-15 cm. In order for the attic room to be conveniently moved, the framework is mounted, on top of which the gender plate is placed, the plates of OSB or moisture resistant plywood.

For the framework of the frame with the outer warming of the ceiling, it is recommended to use wooden bars or boards. The first are suitable if the layer is not very thick.

Stages of work on a framework for external ceiling insulation

Step 1. Based on the size of the heaters' cloths, determine the distance between the frame racks (crates).

Step 2. Make up the laying scheme of longitudinal and transverse crossbars.

Step 3. Boards are installed on the ends.

Step 4. Fasten boards to the floor with metal corners and screws.

Selection of material for outdoor insulation

There are several possible options, get acquainted with the features of the installation of each of them.

Styrofoam

In the openings between the frame racks, you can lay:

• mineral wool in rolls and mats;
• foam sheets;
• bulk thermal insulation.

The choice depends on the financial capabilities of the owner of the house and its preferences. The least blending floor insulation with foam application. If this material is selected, the framework needs to be built so that the sheet can be put without preliminary cutting. In the case of foam, this is not quite simple. Manufacturers offer 50 cm width cloths and 1 m. You can use any.

The most preferred brand for the insulation of the floor of the attic - C25. This is a more dense foam compared to C15, therefore it has less thermal conductivity. The foam of the C35 brand and polyurethane foam is expensive materials, but most favorable for regions with a harsh climate, as they provide the highest quality insulation.

Mineral wool

Manufacturers offer a wide selection of fibrous thermal insulation materials. The most popular: "Erult", "Rockvul", "Ursa", "Parks". These materials have a lot of advantages, but have only one disadvantage: hygroscopicity. If the roof is not hydroizing enough, it is impossible to use mineral wool to insulate the attic. Over time, it will inevitably absorb moisture and worst most of its thermal insulation properties.

Sawdust

The cheapest and easiest way to insulate the ceiling outside is the use of sawdust. When this material is selected, it is necessary to consider that it is also very hygroscopic. To prevent rotting wheels, sawdust is mixed with lime. In building materials stores, a limestone flock is sold, which is ideal for this purpose.

Prices for foam

styrofoam

Another way of insulation sawdust is to prepare a mixture consisting of the following ingredients:

• sawdust;
• cement;
• water.

Optimal proportions: 10: 1: 1. Mass are stirred manually in a suitable capacity or in a concrete mixer. The finished composition fill the space between the cutting racks and give time to dry.

Ceramzit

Ceramzite is the most convenient bulk insulation. When using it, there is one nuance, the knowledge of which will allow to obtain better warming. When filling the clamping, it is necessary to ensure that the granules of different diameters are present. This will eliminate large voids.

The name of this material should not be misled: it has nothing to do with high ecology. Ecostat is made of resellers: newspapers, cardboard, packages. All components are mixed with brown and boric acid. These additives are needed to provide a low flammability coefficient of material and prevent its rot.

The advantage of EcoWhat is that it has low thermal conductivity and excellent vapor permeability. This material can be said that he "breathes", so mold or fungus is never formed under it.

Equouth is extremely simple in laying and applying. All work on insulation can be performed by hand without attracting assistants.

There are three ways to styling EcoWati:

• dry;
• wet;
• glue.

In the first case, the eclaw is laid in the openings of the crates and compact. For insulation using the last two methods (wet and adhesive), a special machine consisting of a bunker, sprayer and compressor will be required. In the bunker, a mixture based on water or PVA glue is prepared, after which the eco-water is supplied under pressure in the hose from which spraying is performed.

Prices for Equouthatu

Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam

Modern method of ceiling insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU). This light foamy material is quickly applied to any surface. At the same time, it does not need to fasten the wall or ceiling, as it fastest sticks to them.

PPU has the following advantages:

• possesses low polliness;
• non-toxic;
• resistant to chemicals;
• features low hygroscopicity;
• durable.

When spraying, a solid layer is formed without gaps. This eliminates the formation of cold bridges, which makes insulation better. Polyurethane foam has excellent vapor permeability, so the overlap does not need additional vaporizolation. This allows you to save on the ceiling warming costs.

Before applying the PPU, it is important to make sure that the state of the surfaces corresponds to the requirements of them. The level of moisture content of the concrete ceiling should not exceed 4%, wooden - 12%.

Before starting work, all surfaces that are not intended for insulation are covered with paper, polyethylene or dense cloth. Polyurethane foam is applied in layers, insolutenantly controlling the thickness of the spraying. Before applying the next layer, they are convinced that the previous completely dry and hardened. The density of the application of PPU is 30-50 kg per 1 m3. This method of ceiling insulation in a private house is the most expensive, but at the same time and most convenient.

Video - insulation ceiling polyurethane

In this article, I will tell you in detail how to insulate the ceiling in a private house yourself, the better to warm this part of the house and where insidious underwater stones are waiting for you. Saving heat in any dwelling is an extremely important task, and in a private house it is especially acute, since there is no heated room with top and everything needs to be thought of themselves.

Warm ceiling - the key to the preservation of heat in the house.

Choose insulation

First we will deal with the question than to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

To date, the market offers 3 types of material suitable for insulation of the ceiling with their own hands:

1. Bulk insulation - ceramzite, vermiculite, eco-water, sawdust and coal slag;
2. Rolled insulation - linen mats, glass wool and mineral wool, which, in turn, is divided into soft mats from slag, basalt wool, as well as "Erult" and "Ursa";

1. Plate insulation - are represented by three categories. These are mineral wool density plates, a natural plug and styrene-based slabs (foam and extruded polystyrene foam).

There is still bulk thermal insulation. In this niche is widely used polyurethane foam and foamizole. But we will not touch them, as you have to equip such insulation with our own hands. There need expensive special equipment and professional skills, and now we are talking about independent installation.

Bulk insulation

The most famous and affordable insulation of serial-produced materials is clay. Each of us saw the lungs, durable, rounded brown granules, that's the same ceramzite.

Make it from a special grade of clay, it is adjusted to a boil, and then get cold. The technology has long known and quite simple, so the price of the ceramzite is quite acceptable, now it fluctuates in the area of \u200b\u200b1000 rubles per 1m³.

The heat insulating characteristics of the ceramisitis is average, therefore, for a good result, a layer of at least 200 mm is needed. From the pros, you can highlight high strength, this material easily withstands the concrete tie.

But at the same time, the ceramzite is afraid of moisture and compared to competitors has a pretty decent weight. Accordingly, for insulation, the clamzite needs to have a durable overlap.

Vermikulitis is a rock from the same line as mica. After firing, the material becomes porous and keeps warm well. Moisture vermiculite is not afraid. As for the weight, it is easier than the ceramzite, but heavier than the same mineral wool.

In my opinion, from all the bulk insulation presented now the vermiculite is the most optimal option. It does not burn, it does not wet, it does not fit and passes the air, which allows you to use vermiculite for the insulation of the ceilings both in block and wooden.

Relatively recently appeared on the Eco-house market is a waste paper processing product. To wool is not burning, a bora is added to it. It, of course, absorbs moisture, but not as much as Mineral Wat.

Unlike the two previous Equata options, it gives a shrinkage, but insignificant, about 15%. But it is hardly the easiest material, the weight of such a insulation can withstand any overlap.

Further, we have "folk" thermal insulation - this is a coal slag and sawdust. If to say honestly, then compared with the factory options, the only indisputable advantage of folk insulation is the darum price.

The weight and thermal conductivity of the coal slag is equal to the ceramisitis, respectively, and pour it out of at least 200 mm. But from slag a lot of dust and dirt, plus it is able to recruit moisture.

Sawdles will also cost a penny, but there are nuances here. Material should be brought out in a dry room for at least a year. Plus, to protect the sawdust from rodents and the fungus, they need to mix with a hawed lime with a fluff in proportion of 10: 2 (sawdust / fluff). In addition, the sawdust can be done with insulation blocks, but I will tell about this technology a little later.

I think you understand that the ceiling insulation in a private house with bulk materials can be performed only on the side of the attic overlap. Step-by-step instructions for such insulation will be given in the appropriate chapter, but for now, go to rolled materials.

Rolled materials

Yes, the producers of Ursa, "Eau", glass gamble and other soft insulation mats forgue, but I absolutely disappointed in this material. At the beginning of zero, I warmed the ceiling on the cottage in the country and in the garage. It did not take glass gambler, I spent in Ursu, but as it turned out the result of the same.

No more than 5 - 7 years have passed and in the country overlap, what the mice did not extee, the village itself and insulation became like an old blanket. It was not practically no sense from him and everything had to do again.

If someone still decides on the purchase and installation of soft mats, keep in mind: to work with similar materials you need to buy a good, tight jumpsuit, respirator, gloves and glasses. Dust with small particles of glass is very dangerous for mucosa and leather.

Linen mats are pure Russian know-how. Our finally remembered that there were always at home in Russia, moss, cannabises and other similar materials. Linen mats seem to resemble mineral wool.

They can even gain moisture, but after drying, unlike the wool, the volume of linen mats is restored. I do not know what they are impregnated, but the mice in this insulation do not live and burning it does not support.

Plus, there is no harmful dust with particles of glass, which means there is no need to be protected so radically. As for manufacturers, the most famous can be called "Termolen", "Ecoteplin" and "Ecoterm". The price depends only on the ambitions of the manufacturer and overhead costs for transportation.

Slab insulation

Slab insulation thing universal. It is suitable for both the ceiling insulation outside and for the insulation of the suspended ceiling from the inside. The choice here depends on what you have built on the house and from the type of room.

For wooden houses, as well as for insulation of overlaps in the kitchen or in the steam room, mineral wool basalt plates with a density of 100kg / m³ are more suitable. We, of course, absorb moisture, but if we bite them into vapor barrier, then the form they hold pretty well and for a long time. By the way, the higher the density, the longer, will serve thermal insulation.

If the ceiling insulation is needed from the inside in a block house with reinforced concrete slabs, then I recommend taking inexpensive PSB-C25 foam.

The extruded polystyrene foam thing is good, but it is 2 - 3 times more expensive than foam and spend money on it. It makes sense only if you want to pour the reinforced concrete tie. The same "Penopelex" (manufacturer of extruded polystyrene foam) will greatly withstand this weight.

Extruded expanded polystyrene is considered an absolute waterproofer. Polyfoam although it is vapor permeable, but this coefficient he has so small that it can be not taken into account.

Actually, therefore, such plates in wooden houses need to be mounted very carefully, in order not to clog wood into the waterproofer, where it starts to deteriorate.

The styrene-based slabs have a total minus, at temperatures above 70 ºС, they begin to decompose and distinguish harmful carcinogens.

And if warm air is simply accumulated in the usual residential room under the ceiling, then in the kitchen, and even more so in the steam room, this air is already hot. That is why neither the foam nor its extruded fellow in such premises from the inside is not mounted.

As for traffic jam, this environmentally friendly and very effective insulation is facing fabric. And if you feel honestly, those people who can afford such a luxury, are unlikely to glue her to the ceiling with their own hands.

In addition, there is an option to make the slabs from sawdust with your own hands. After disappointment in soft cotton mats, at the cottage I insulated the ceiling by homemade plates from sawdust. The instruction and the recipe itself are available to everyone, plus the cost of this material is kept.

On 10 parts of the dry departed sawdust add 1 part of the M500 cement and 1 part of the harated of the puffs. All this is mixed in the concrete mixer on dry, after which the water is added, about 2 parts and is mixed again.

In the instructions, the instructions should be added to the boric acid or copper sulphate, but at one time it was advised instead of boric acid to dissolve gelatin in the water. With boric acid plate after frozen, it turns fragile, and gelatin acts as an elastic binder.

This solution can be covered in homemade forms, then you will get plates with clear dimensions. Or fall asleep it immediately between lags on the side of the attic. In this case, the same stove is obtained, only large and monolithic, with dense adjacent to all contact surfaces.

Ceiling insulation machinery

Now let's talk about how to make the ceiling in a private house warm. There are 2 options for arrangements. This is a ceiling insulation outside, that is, on the side of the attic and the insulation of the ceiling from the inside, from the side of the rooms.

Internal mounting

The insulation of the ceiling from the inside the option is not exactly said not the best. First, it is not suitable for low overlap rooms. Indeed, at the best case, the ceiling will fall at 50 - 70 mm, and in the cold regions of our immense homeland, the insulation will take 150 - 200 mm.

Secondly, it will be necessary to work using a different kind of stage and stepladder, which in itself is quite difficult.

And then, whatever thick and high-quality insulation you have chosen, and the design of the overlap on a cold attic will in any case be freezing. But the mouse to your insulation from the inside will definitely not get.

In the theory of insulation technique is not difficult. Often, the reinforced concrete slabs are so insulated. Although no one bothers you to attach the insulation slabs and to the wooden ceiling.

As you understand, in this case only the slab material is suitable for us.

If you happened to warm reinforced concrete slabs, then first-in-idle need to check how well the round cavities inside these plates are sealed. If the plugs did not put, then make them with your own hands. Splazinate on the edge of the mounting foam, and when it hardens, cut down too much and smear the holes with cement-sandy solution.

• How much I came across, for foaming minimum is 50 mm, for extruded polystyrene foam 30 mm, and for mineral wool slabs with a high density of 100 mm. The insulation plates are glued to the ceiling by construction glue and are additionally fixed on it with umbrella dowels, at 1 m² at least 5 points of fixation;
• For styrene-based plates, I use Ceresit CT83 building glue, it was originally developed specifically for this material. And the dense basalt plates can be glued almost on any glue for the tile;

• All elements are glued by the rotary. That is, according to the principle of brick masonry, with a shift between the rows. Although the glue keeps well, but the weight of the insulation must be additionally fixed. For this, right through the layer of insulation, drill through the "deaf" holes in the ceiling to a depth of up to 50 mm. Further, we drive a dowel-umbrella in them and score a central spacer in this umbrella;
• If we speak exclusively about insulation, then this is enough. But the view of such a ceiling will be, to put it mildly, mediocre. Therefore, before the start of work, you need to think about how you will fix the finite cladding;

• Output 2 and both are pretty simple. You can take wooden bars thick slightly more insulation and secure them with anchors on the ceiling. The step between the guides should not exceed 70 cm. After which the insulation is mounted between the bars. The method is fast, but it is suitable for smooth horizontal planes. If some of the corners are strongly chosen, under the bars will have to put wedges, and this is long and inconvenient;

• For crooked ceilings there is another, no less easy way. The same marking is performed on the ceiling as the installation of wooden bars. After that, on the lines in a step of about a meter, metal suspensions and "wings" are attached to them immediately fade down. The insulation is glued further on the ceiling, and under bent down the wings of the suspensions in the stoves a knife cut holes.
  When the insulation is mounted, the suspension is strictly horizontally with a plane checking and wooden planks, or ceiling CD profiles under drywall.

By the way, to glue the insulation to the reinforced concrete slab overlap below, this stove must be clean and projected. So if your ceiling is bitten, then the bliss will need to wash off and walk a couple of times in the soil of deep penetration, for example, with a concrete contact.

Outdoor ceiling insulation through the attic

The ceiling insulation is not an example easier and more efficient than the described option.

True, the arrangement of reinforced concrete slabs of overlapping and wooden structures is somewhat different:

• When you are dealing with a reinforced concrete slab, you can go twofok. At first, the plate is covered with a waterproof film, cheaper to use technical polyethylene. Although some foil foam foam polyethylene (foam) and glue the joints with foil scotch. For wooden structures, it is relevant, but to lay concrete with foam, I do not see much sense;

• For bulk materials in which the thickness of the sleeper starts from 150 mm, wooden lags with such a calculation are mounted so that the depth of the cells was about 200 mm. Keramzit, vermiculite coal slag and sawdust just fall asleep between lags;
• But with Eco-tailed, it will have to tinker a little more. This material is poured out of the bag, after which it flies with a building mixer or an electrician with a mixing nozzle. As a result, the insulation increases in the amount of about 3-4 times;

• In addition, the ceramzite, vermiculitis and coal slag materials are hard and they are practically not sitting. While sawdust and eco-friendly, you need to pour out a little higher lag, this tolerance is needed for shrinkage;
• In principle, warming itself is ready. But if you leave it so, then you will walk in the attic, at least it is inconvenient. Therefore, I always recommend using the floor from above.
  If there is not enough money to the tipped sex board or a thick phanener, then buy an ordinary unedged board and squeeze it. Let there be slots there, but so you will at least calmly walk and use the attic as a storage room;

• There is another moment that most amateur masters misses. Funny insulation, especially such as claying and coal slags have a rather large fraction and to ensure good efficiency, it is desirable to cover the vaporizolation membrane (thermos effect).
  And do not forget this membrane to put the right side, the steam moves from the bottom up. Excessive moisture should freely exit the insulation, and on top of the membrane will protect the insulation from wetting;
• Wooden floors are originally based on ceiling lags, so the technology of their arrangement is similar. Only in this case, instead of waterproofing, a vapor barrier membrane, or kraft paper, is covered below;

• There is another way of insulation of reinforced concrete floors, it is usually used in. In order to insulate the plate on top, the polyfoam layer with a density of at least 30 units is glued to the floor, and it is better to take extruded polystyrene foam;
• Next, on top of the insulation, a metal reinforcement grid is stacked with a cell of about 50 mm and a screed with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm is poured. As a result, you get a full-fledged floor and a warm ceiling from below. In general, the foam under the tie is not placed, but in the attic overlap or in the attic there are no large loads and this rule can be neglected;

• This method of arrangement has also lightweight, roughly speaking, cheap option. On it, instead of extruded polystyrene foam on the floor, a layer of clay is poured. And already on the cerazy the screed is poured. It comes out, of course, cheaper, but the work is much more, the cake is harder and its thickness only starts from 200 mm.

Output

Now it will be much easier for you to navigate in insulation, especially in those characteristics, about which sellers usually silence. And the main thing you can decide which method out of the above is suitable specifically in your case. In the photo and video in this article, the main moments of insulation are shown in practice. If you have after viewing questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed consultation.

The insulation of the ceiling - the process is quite simple, but thanks to it, it is possible to significantly reduce heat losses through this part of the design. The advantage of this type of work can be considered that almost all the insulation options can be carried out on their own without the use of special equipment. I will tell you about the correct technology of each of the options, and you carefully read all the solutions and pick up optimal for your home.

Ways of insulation

Of all the options that I will tell, only one can not be fully inserted without special equipment, the rest are implemented without any problems. Different decisions require different costs, this factor also cannot be lost from the view, because spending in some cases can be minimal, and in some you will have to lay a round sum.

An important remark: those methods that require high costs, much more efficiently budget, this is a well-known truth, and you must remember it.

Basically all the options suggest outdoor insulation, that is, work in the attic. This is much more convenient from the point of view of the simple process, in addition, you can work, not Muso inside. Of course, in some situations it will have to carry out work from the inside, they will also be raised in the relevant sections.

Option number 1 - foam or extruded polystyrene foam

This is a fairly popular solution, the foam is cheaper, and the extruded options are much stronger. But in the attic, the strength does not matter much, so it makes no sense to spend extra money. Let's wonder what will be needed for work:

Styrofoam	To work, it is best to use sheets with a thickness of 100 mm, the density may be the lowest - 15 kg per cubic meter. It is possible to lay the material in two layers, then the joints between the sheets should not coincide, the upper row is placed with displacement, it is ensured by great reliability. Quantity is calculated based on the area being closed, everything is quite simple, remember that one cubic meter is enough for 10 square meters at a layer of 10 cm
Mounting foam	With it, all the slots on the joints and adjoits will be closed. It is impossible to customize the foam perfectly accurately, so it is necessary to close all empties, and the mounting foam is suitable for these purposes, as it is impossible, the perfect option is to buy a professional gun, since with his help the composition is much more convenient, and it can be done even in narrow slots that very important in our case
Vaporizoation membrane or pergamine	Personally, I think that you can do without these materials, as wood does not need additional isolation. But if you still want to store the surface, then use membrane options, but in no case is not a film, since the condensate will be formed under it and rotting processes can begin in the wood. If the attic is a residential, then the insulation can be sachets at the top, it is attached directly to the beams

As for technology, the ceiling insulation is made by their own hands according to the following algorithm:

• First of all, the surface is exempt from all objects and cleared from garbage with its availability.. The space between the beams should be dry and clean so that nothing prevented the maximum detriment of the thermal insulation material;
• Next are the sheets of foam, if you need to cut them, then keep in mind that the width of the element should be 10 mm more than the distance between the framework, it will allow to provide a dense location of the material in the design. To work, I advise you to purchase a special hacksaw, with its help you will quickly and qualitatively cut the material;

• If you lay vaporizolation, then do it with allen on vertical surfaces.. The material is easiest to fix with the help of a construction stapler, this is the fastest way of working;
• Sheets fit as close as possible in the frame, try to accurately measure the desired dimensions and smoothly cut them off. If insulation is carried out in two layers, the upper clamping with a displacement on the floor-sheet relative to the bottom, it allows you to exclude through slots through which heat will be raised. Remember that the material is fragile and with a big effort it will break;

• After laying the material, the stage of sealing of all the cracks and joints occurs, the work is simple: with the help of mounting foam, all visible voids are filled. After drying the composition of the surplus, you can cut if they appear for the surface and create interference.

Further work depends on how the attic will be used, the floor can be used on it, and you can leave as it is - the material does not need additional protection and will perfectly perform its functions.

In this section, you need to figure out how to insulate the ceiling on the balcony with your own hands, here work is made exclusively from the inside, and it is best to use extruded polystyrene foam in view of its strength and durability.

The loggia is insisted as follows:

• The surface is cleared of contamination, if there are irregularities on it, they should be eliminated;
• Then the extruded material is taken, if necessary, it cuts out the size of the ceiling and is fixed on it using a dowel for thermal insulation. To do this, the holes are drilled in the concrete slab by the perforator, after which the fasteners and elements are inserted securely on the surface;

• Then all the gaps and joints are closed by mounting foam, excess which is cut after frozen;
• Further work depend on the method of finishing, if you are plastering the surface, the reinforcing mesh is attached to it and a special adhesive composition is applied. If you will navigate the lining or other finishing material, that is, it makes sense outside the foam foam is a thin insulation with a reflective layer that allows you to save even more heat on your balcony.

The insulation of the ceiling on the balcony can be produced and using foam, in this case I advise you to use an option with a density of 25 kg per cubic meter, it is much stronger and harder.

Option number 2 - Granulated polystyrene

For some reason, the ceiling insulation is very rarely produced using this option, but it really likes it for the simplicity and quality of the material, the granules are not lit, which ensures proper fire safety, and the convenience of use and at all at all, judge for themselves:

• First of all, it is necessary to prepare the surface - due to the small size of the insulation, it is important to close all the cracks so that the granules do not penetrate them. The blacks should be dense enough, so it needs to be done carefully;
• Next, the surface is littered either a vapor insulating membrane or a pergamine (paper impregnated with bitumen), these materials immediately perform two functions at once: and protect the design from moisture and do not give insulation to wake up. The mount is made with a stapler, the insulating material must enter the vertical surface at least 10 centimeters;
• Working work is very simple: you pour out the granular polystyrene to the surface and distribute it to a smooth layer, you do not need to rub it. The recommended layer is 15-20 cm, do not worry for the load on the design, the material is very light;
• Last but you need to close the surface with a vapor-permeable membrane or any material transmitting air, it is necessary so that the polystyrene does not inflate, because it is very light and even a small breeze can disseminate the granules.

I want to note that the price of a cubic meter of granulated polystyrene is about 5,500 rubles, if the layer is 20 cm, it is enough for 5 square meters of the area.

Option number 3 - Penosole

This is the material of a new generation, which is a composition that is applied in liquid form and after frozen forms a monolithic structure with good thermal insulation properties without cracks and emptiness. Plus this solution is the effectiveness and service life of about 30 years, minus - for its application requires the presence of special equipment and without attracting specialists can not do.

With regard to how to implement this option, everything is simple in view of the fact that the work will be carried out mainly attracted specialists. From you requires to prepare the surface:

• Clean the space from dust and garbage, it is important to delete all items that will prevent interference while working and release all the surfaces that will be insulated;
• After that, it is necessary to put a vaporizolation membrane, it will protect the tree from the moisture released when applying foamizol and create a barrier that will produce evaporation to outward, but exclude moisture inward;
• Next to the work comes specialists. They apply the material with the right layer throughout the area, the work occurs quite quickly, and after a few hours the process will be fully fulfilled. To dry out the surface, you will need some time, after which the material will acquire all its properties.

On top of the material it is not necessary to put any insulation materials, which is also important, if in some places the material has risen above the desired level, then you can cut it off with a conventional building knife.

We will deal with the cost, the cubic meter of foamizol will cost you an average of 1500-1800 rubles, this is a rather reasonable price, considering that you will have a minimum of worries, and the result you will get excellent.

Option number 4 - Mineral wool

I am not mistaken if I say that this is the most popular material for thermal insulation ceiling structures. The ceiling insulation is produced in such a sequence:

• As in all other options, work begins with the cleaning of the surface and liberation of the attic from unnecessary items that create interference during work;
• Then you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing material, the choice of options is very large, you need to purchase a product of a well-known manufacturer with a good reputation among buyers and specialists. Waterproofing is fastened with a stapler, for reliability, adhesions are made at 10-15 cm, they can be additionally strengthened by sching the usual tape;

• Then the minorvat is stacked in the inter binding space, both rolled and slab option can be applied. In the first case, the material is cut into pieces of the desired width and fits tightly on the surface, in the second items are placed as close as possible on the surface, it is important to eliminate the slots in the docking and adjustment of materials;

• The advantage of rigid plates is that under them do not need a solid doom, the main thing is to water the surface, after which the elements can be stacked. The minimum thickness of the material is 100 mm, but in areas with severe winters a layer can be significantly larger.

Remember that when working with Minvata, it is necessary to use protective equipment - gloves and respirator. In the future, the material will not be dangerous, but small particles can enter and cutting it into the air, which can irritate mucous membranes, and the skin of the hands will be hung.

This material is ideal for the insulation of the attic from the inside with their own hands, in this case the works are made in such a sequence:

• First of all, the surface is closed by a windproof membrane, which will also protect from moisture outside and evaporating extra moisture from the inside. Standard mount - with the help of a stapler, all joints must be reliable, it is better to additionally smoke with a special tape;
• Next, the interconnection space is filled with a mineral wool, the layer must be as much as possible, the optimal option is 20 cm. It is important to lay the material as dense as possible, so the width of the elements should be 3-4 cm more than the distance between the frame;

• To keep sheets, they need to be consolidatedThere are two main ways here. The first is to sting the rivers over the thermal insulating layer, and the second implies the use of twine, which is stretched on the surface and keeps the minvatu, the example is shown in the photo below.

• A vapor insulation material is fastened over the insulation, after which it is possible to carry out an outdoor finish, it can be any: from lining to drywall or plywood.

Option number 5 - sawdust

If you do not know how to warm the ceiling on the cottage and qualitatively, this section will tell one of the easiest and most effective solutions. The following materials will be needed to perform work:

• Dry wood sawdust, material can be purchased on the nearest panel for a penny;
• Lime, it is added to protect sawdust from mold and pests, it needs to be added in a ratio of 1:10. Used finely divided lime fluff;
• To strengthen the composition, I advise you to add cement, one part should be at 10 parts of sawdust;
• Copper vigoros - added as an additional antiseptic, it needs 2-3 spoons on the water bucket.

The workflow looks like this:

• In a suitable capacity, 10 parts of sawdust are mixed in size, 1 part of the lime and 1 part of the cement, it is important to achieve homogeneity of the composition;
• Next, water is added to the resulting mass, in which 3 spoons of the copper sulfate by 10 liters are divorced. It needs to be added neatly, the mass must be wet, but not raw and wet;

• The surface of the ceiling overlap is closed with a layer of pergamine, it stacked with the allen on the vertical surfaces, make a reserve at 10-15 cm on the connections. This material serves as a waterproofer and does not allow moisture to penetrate the wood. Around the perimeter it needs to be consolidated by either small slats or a construction stapler, the second option is much easier and faster
• The ceiling insulation occurs by the uniform distribution of the finished mass on the surface, its layer should be 10 and more see the sawdust do not have to rub, simply lay out them on the plane and neatly align;

• The drying of the composition requires about two weeks, during this period it is desirable to ensure good ventilation of the attic space. It is not recommended to walk on the material in the future, so if the attic will be used for some purposes, then the insulation should be closed with a decidant from the board or.

Option number 6 - Clay

More precisely, it will not be quite clay, but a mixture of clay and sawdust, such a mass has good thermal insulation indicators and is completely environmentally friendly, which is also an important advantage in our days. What you need to work:

• Clay, which can be accepted independently at the site of the nearest development;
• Sawdust, it is important to find a dry option without traces of mold;
• Cement - it needs a tenth of the solution to increase its strength subsequently.

The weight for insulation is prepared as follows:

• Some clay buckets are poured into the concrete mixer, after which water is added there, its quantity should be so that the liquid mass is obtained after stirring. So that the process passed faster, clay need to be added as small pieces;
• Further, sawdust is added until the mass becomes relatively dense, the moisture content should be small, so that water on the design does not flow from it, it is very important. At the end of kneading, cement is added, which also dries the mass and after it is frozen, it gives additional strength;

Instead of sawdust, you can use a straw, then you will have a saman, the thermal insulation properties of which are well known to people for many centuries. In this case, water is added to the clay to produce a wet mass, after which wet straw is added there, stirring is made by hand or even legs if the volumes are large.

• The surface between the beams is necessarily closed with a waterproofing vapor-permeable material, it is necessary so that the moisture from the mass does not penetrate into the material and did not cause the formation of mold in it;
• The composition is laid out on the surface of a layer of about 10 cm, the surface is aligned manually or with a level rail. You can also use the rule, with its help work will be much faster, and the result will be much better;

• After laying, the mixture will dry up for about a month, during this period it is necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation of the attic. If small cracks appeared on the drying on the surface, they can be carefully lost.

Option number 7 - Ceramzit

This lightweight refractory material has good heat insulating properties and a low weight, which is important when the ceiling structures are insulated. I want to immediately note that for effective thermal insulation, the material layer should be about 20 cm, consider this and use the corresponding height beam during the construction of the beam.

Ceiling insulation with clay is carried out by fairly simple technology:

• The surface is exempt from all over, after which a vapor-permeable membrane is placed on it. The easiest way to lay the material fastened so that it covers the surface, and the beams, it is attached to the stapler, it is fast, convenient and very reliable;
• Ceramzite falls asleep over the entire area and is evenly distributed over the surface, the process is very simple and takes some time. The main thing is that someone makes the bags, and someone scratched them and ravized them.

Cubomezit cubometer costs about one and a half thousand rubles, these are to you note that you can calculate approximate costs when using this option.

Option number 8 - Eco

This is a relatively new insulation, which consists of cellulose with the addition of antiseptics and flames, it ensures the safety of the material and its non-causing. The capillary structure allows moisture from the surface to evaporate, and the presence of special additives prevents the occurrence of mold, so the question is, the better to insulate the ceiling, many experts answer that the optimal solution today is an Eco.

But I want to immediately warn you from independent work - the composition must be applied by specialists using special equipment, simply by hand the full mass saves heat much worse, such savings will cost more for you.

We'll figure it out how to warm the ceiling with this material correctly, the instructions for carrying out work is very simple:

• Under the material does not need any special preparation, as cellulose interacts perfectly well with wood. You need to clean the surface from garbage and unnecessary items. There should be nothing in the attic, since during the operation of the particles fly in all directions and fall on all items around;
• The ceiling insulation can be done in two ways - dry and wet. In the first case, the composition in a dry form under pressure is applied to the surface, the work continues until a layer of the required thickness is formed on the surface. The second option implies the supply of a wet mass, which, after drying, is reliably connected with the surface, its main advantages is a durable mount to the surface and high sound insulation characteristics;

Of course, there are other technologies for which the ceiling warming can be insulated, I only affected those that are most common today and have proven themselves among the developers. From this list you can choose the best option for any construction, carefully weighed all the criteria to find the optimal solution.

Output

The insulation of the ceiling is the process of responsible, because through this part of the structure can be lost up to 25% of heat from the house. It is important to qualitatively and cool work, and the video in this article will help you deal with some important nuances even better. If you are unclear individual moments or you want to get additional information, then write in the comments under the review.

Houses from the rounded tree or natural bar are rightfully considered the most comfortable. Their high popularity is explained, first of all, the naturalness of the material and good protective characteristics.

But for all types of single-storey buildings are characterized by significant losses through the ceiling structures. Therefore, for heat and comfort in a wooden private house, you have to fight. The correctly selected method and well-thought-out insulation scheme are the main components of success in this struggle.

Methods of heat-insulation of wooden ceiling structures

Numerous technologies in wooden houses are divided into two groups at the installation site of the insulation:

• on the part of residential premises (from the inside);
• from the side of the attic (outside).

Both approaches have their advantages and disadvantages. Thus, the ceiling insulation in a wooden house from the inside will save money, but will reduce the useful volume of residential premises, and the insulation, laid outside, will require additional protection against mechanical damage and more powerful hydro and vaporizolation, which will entail an increase in insulation costs.

In the classic embodiment, the thermal insulation layer has the following structure:

• outdoor pairproofing;
• insulating material;
• doom;
• internal vaporizolation;
• cleaning.

How to insulate the ceiling?

All materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house are divided into three groups:

• loose;
• soft;
• solid.

The first group applies only with outdoor insulation. Two others are used in both methods.
The most popular representatives of each group are respectively:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• styrofoam.

The easiest way of insulation is the ceiling finish from the inside of foam. Its advantages include:

• relatively low cost of material;
• low weight;
• unique vapor and moisture-repellent properties;
• ease of installation;
• ecology.

Stages of work

First, the waterproofing layer is fixed on the cable ceiling between the beams. For this you can use parchment, polyethylene film.

Foam-plate plates are fixed on top of the waterproofing with a special glue. After applying the adhesive composition on the insulation, it follows 1 - 2 minutes to wait and tightly press it to the ceiling. Plates are mounted online. In the presence of gaps between thermal insulation products, they are sealed with mounting foam. It is better to additionally fix the insulation on the surface with the help of screws with the washers of a large dimieter (10-14 mm).

After mounting, the plates are again laid a layer of pergamine or other vapor barrier material. Completes the entire process of casing and decorative decoration of ceiling structures.

Modern industry manufactures foam sheets of various colors and textures. The front surface may contain an abstract drawing, which, being correctly selected, will allow to enrich the interior of the room.

Sawdust

Wood sawdusts are natural material and have proven themselves to heat off the wooden houses. This technology is somewhat more complicated than the salary of foam. The main complexity is to prepare, or rather, the manufacture of the insulation, which is a cement-sawing mixture.

Preparation of composition

It is better to use medium size chips. Ties for insulation will not suit. Its volume contains very little air. Sawdles should not be fresh. Raw materials are treated with antiseptic and anti-grapple compositions. The easiest solution to this problem is the soaking of wood chips in a copper sulfate solution, after which it should be carefully dryed.

The required volume of sawdust is equal to the planned volume of the insulating layer, the recommended thickness of which is 20 centimeters.

The process of preparation of the cement-sieve mixture consists of the following steps:

• in a spacious capacity (trough with sides of 25-30 cm.) Cement milk prepare, mixing water with cement in proportion to ten to one, and are thoroughly mixed;
• speakers are added to the mixture, which in the mixing process should be evenly coated with a layer of solution.

Surface preparation

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the insulation, the area should be prepared for its application. Such preparation includes the following actions:

• dismantling of an attic floor;
• cleaning the space between lags from garbage and other foreign objects;
• processing of all available wooden overlap structures with antifungal and antiseptic means;
• stacking a vapor barrier carpet (a dense polyethylene film laid in labels can be used as insulation).

Application of insulation

Next, the manufactured cement-sawing mixture is scattered over the overlap area and slightly tram. Insulation must evenly distribute between lags of the floor. After complete drying on the resulting coating can be walking.

One of the main advantages of this method of insulation of the ceiling is the low cost of materials. First of all, it concerns sawdust, which, having raised, can be purchased for free.

Mineral wool

Popular way of insulation of a wooden ceiling and with mineral wool. In its heat insulating characteristics, this material exceeds the foam. Installation process is relatively simple.

Vapor insulation layer

The external surface of the ceiling overlap fastened from the coating, the external surface of the ceiling overlap is stacked by steam insulation. As in the case of sawdust, a thick polyethylene film is suitable.

It is installed with an overlap about 10 cm. The seams are squeezed by scotch.

Installation of insulation

Mineral wool is made in plates and rolls. When using a roll material, cotton wool is unwinding along the beams.

The second layer of the insulation is placed in the opposite direction, covering the beams and areas of the joints.

For additional fixation, the insulation bands can be used nails whose caps should be slightly "recessed" into the top layer of material.

Waterproofing

One of the few drawbacks of mineral wool, but essential, is its hygroscopicity. It is very easily soaked with moisture, which is extremely negatively affecting its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the insulation layer must have reliable external waterproofing.

Putting it on top of the Minvaty Vansel with sickling seams.

Finish layer

If the attic is not exploited, then the cement-sand tie can be performed on top of the insulating structure. When arranging residential attacks, floor or laminate boards are installed.

The insulation of the ceiling of the private house is a relatively simple technological process. Performing these works does not require special skills. If desired and knowledge of the main technological moments, everyone is able to cope with this task on their own.