The printed circuit board is a sheet of insulating material, usually, fiberglass, on one or two sides of which there are conductive, usually copper, tracks. Details are inserted into the holes in the board and solder to these tracks. Conducting tracks are located so that if you properly insert into the right holes and solder well, then these tracks will connect the parts between themselves in such a way that it will turn out a certain electronic device.

There is also superficial installation when the parts are located on the same side, where and the printed tracks, and they are soldered to them without exposing the conclusions into the holes. This method is most often used in very compact devices, when installing miniature parts. At home, so to speak, in the kitchen conditions, it is easier to make the first option. About him and there will be here.

There are many methods and methods of manufacturing printed circuit boards in the "kitchen" conditions described in various amateur literature. Here, without claiming originality, one of them is considered, suitable for the manufacture of printed circuit boards for uncomplicated electronic devices. As an example, we make a board for the sound alarm described in this magazine in the article "Electronic Bicycle Call". In order not to scroll through the magazine once again, the timer scheme, as well as the pattern of the printed circuit board and the mounting scheme, are repeated here in the figures, respectively, 1.2 and 3.

Preparation of drawing

But, before making a printed circuit board, you need to know what scale is its drawing. In radio magazines, almost always drawing is given on the scale of 1: 1. But in different publications it happens differently.

If the drawing of the board is given on another scale, it needs to be revised or redraw over a scale grid so that it turns out an image on the scale of 1: 1. Here the image is immediately on the scale of 1: 1, and nothing to be reduced or increased.

Printed

The main material for printed circuit boards is a foil glassstolite. This is such an insulating sheet, which has a copper foil with one or both sides. From this leaf you need to cut the workpiece, - a piece of size a little more printed circuit board. It is usually recommended to saw a saw on the metal, but if there is sufficient physical strength, it can be made for metal scissors, it will turn out faster and with fewer sweat.

Then, the foil must be carefully taken to the shallow skin - zero, but not only to holes, and so to remove only the layer of oxides. No need to seek a mirror glitter, let it be better than a lot of small scratches. The essence of further actions to protect the necessary foil sections from the pools.

Transfer pattern

Now you need to transfer Figure 2 on this foil. It is easiest to do this with a sewn, light hammer, copy paper ("Copy", which is lined between paper sheets in order to drink several sheets to once), and ballpoint handles.

Fig. 1. Scheme of a simple electronic device.

Fig. 2. Printed circuit board for the electronic device.

Fig. 3. The layout of the components on the printed circuit board.

It is necessary to put the workpiece under the sheet with the image of the tracks (Fig. 2). However, you can pre-make a photocopy so as not to spoil the magazine. Then between the sheet with the image of the tracks and the workpiece, lay a "copy-step" by painting side to the workpiece. With the help of stationery clips, or in another way, this "sandwich" is fixed.

Next, with the help of sewed and light hammer, you need a little bit, slightly, put the points in which there should be holes. Then, with the help of a ballpoint handle draw tracks, so that their contours through the copy across the workpiece. Now the "sandwich" is disassembly.

Drilling holes

We take a microdel (the electroplap or a small screwdriver will be used as a microdel), and the metal drill with a diameter of 1-1.2 mm drills the holes in the accuracy places. The sawdust is better to blow up, and not to brush the hand, otherwise you can erase the drawing from the "Copy". The surface of the board from the foil side does not paw, because from the fingers there are "sweat-fat" traces, which can continue to interfere with etching.

Drawing tracks

The next step is drawing the tracks themselves. There are many ways to do it. You can use nail polish (with an appropriate tassel), "zapon-varnish", nitro paint, bituminous varnish. In this case, the writing tool is a brush from nail polish, a raysfededer, a drawing pen, sharply sharpened match.

But all this went to a deeply dense past, after felt-tiprars (markers) appeared in stationery stores for writing on CDs and DVDs.

This can be said, produced a "revolution in the kitchen production" of printed circuit boards. We take the marker "for CD" or "for DVD" black thick color, fresh, "tasty" smelling not that alcohol, not that the mounting platforms and the print tracks and the printed tracks, painting their surface tightly, in several layers.

At the same time, the rest of the surface must be left not painted (and not shipped). The trail from the Marker "for CD" or "for DVD" dries instantly, so the workpiece is ready for etching immediately after completing the drawing process.

Etching tracks

The most suitable reagent for etching is a solution of chlorine iron. Now the chlorine iron in the form of powder is sold almost everywhere in the same place, where and radio components. Dilute need 50-60 grams per cup of warm water.

Stir the non-metallic object (the usual metal teaspoon is, of course convenient, but it will spoil everything and deteriorate itself). Then, having done a small hole in an unemployed tracks, a small hole, you can hang this fee for it on a caprony fishing line and omitted into this potter (a glass should be non-metallic).

So that the board is somewhere in the middle of a glass, completely covered with a solution of chlorine iron. After all the non-stained foil is dissolved, remove the workpiece, rinse with water. The paint of the marker washed off by any alcohol-containing liquid, such as ... cheap cologne.

Rinse again with water, dry the hairdryer and you can place the details in Figure 3 and solder.

We all love to collect schemes, but not everyone wants and know how to breed printed circuit boards. Most often we are looking for a finite internship on the Internet and in most cases we find. It would seem, forward, to strive and solder! But not everything is so rosy, because often these found seizures look like this:

Not a single signed element. Full Rus, Riddle! And, it seems to include "Mosch" and snatch the elements, because the scheme is at hand. But the program was created to make life easier for us, and not the opposite.

Therefore, I am briefly, with Azov, I will tell you how to approach the wiring of the board in Sprint-Layout, so that I still do not guess what I am in the detail here. Let's immediately do right!

In one small article, you do not reach everything, I will go through some of the main points. So, create a new project, set the name of the board and the estimated size (it is later easily corrected).

Do not forget to choose a suitable work grid.

For small projects with large elements, a mesh is 1.27 mm, for more advanced and dense 0.635 mm and so on. Placed elements and tracks will be binding to nodes of this grid. You can make a grid for Soviet parts: 2.5 mm or 1 mm.

Be sure to deal with the layer system in the program, understand how everything works, use the photo one.

Make inscriptions on layers for inscriptions, and paths and polygons - on the layers for copper, etc.
The archive has a HELP program in RUSS.

We start adding details on the fee. At this stage, it should not be confused by the "Type" and "Nominal" value, and later I will tell why.

We enter the values, adjust the font size to taste, click OK.

We see the element with marking. Now you can distribute our markings and "compact".
We choose the nominal and its mouse in the right place. Before that, you need to reduce the magnitude of the grid to an acceptable level.

Here, already better.

Now we move the designation element closer. If necessary, you can turn it out after it.

Further, so as not to suffer so with each element, simply coping it and change the data in the properties of the element.

Our fee is already quite ready for the manufacture, but why do we need to overload a solution of superfluous cops?
No need! We will minimize the area of \u200b\u200bthe pole copper. To do this, select all the elements on the board and click at the bottom of the program window "Metalization" button and change the value to an acceptable, for example 0.5 mm.

All is well, but some legs can be possible and sometimes even need to put on a metallized area. There is nothing complicated.

We choose the desired legs and change the value of the metallization retirement to 0. Everything is now a foot on the earthy bus.

And if you need a thermobarrier to facilitate soldering on large polygons? We choose drawing tracks and draw a thermobarrier.

This is the easiest and obvious way. But you can also take advantage of the integrated capabilities of the program to create thermobariers. Select the desired pad and read the menu on the right.

Put the "Termobar" daw and configure the direction and width of the "bridges" of the barrier. It is very convenient to the fact that you can configure many sites at once. The function of the thermal header only on the included automatic land plot. It is not supported by all versions of Sprint-Layout. Use fresh.

Everything is drawn, we can admire the result by pressing the "FOGOVID" button.

Nuance - you can edit the size of the inscriptions of the elements separately, for this we highlight the "sacrifice" and press the right button on the right. Settings are quite extensive. However, it is better to install all the inscriptions in a single style.

There was a turn of "cosmetics". So that all drawings of the elements on the board had a uniform view and thickness of the lines, we do the following:
1. Select a layer with marking elements;
2. Turn off the layer of tracks;
3. Select everything (Ctrl + A);
4. Adjust the thickness of the lines of all items at the same time;
5. Reconvert, activate the layer of tracks.

Beauty! By the way, do not forget to configure the colors of the layer in the program throughout the taste, to whom my palette seemed to be gloomy.

Now remember the beginning of the article and find out why you should not inscribe the nominal element in the field for its type. Everything is simple, we turn out when adding items have already formed a list of items!

Of course, more loyal practice is the main scheme of the scheme in the project, then the creation of a list of elements is the case of a scheme drawing. In the set of abacom programs it splan..
Editorial note

It remains only to be purchased on the list and get in the end a beautiful fee of our own manufacture. Yes, and people such a drawing is not ashamed to show on the forum, and there will be no extra questions on the board.

Files

And then the Russian Help on Sprint-Layout and the excellent free book of our Camrad Mikhail Tsareva (Tsoy73):
▼ 🕗 27/12/16 ⚖️ 2,14 MB ⇣ 170

When there is a laser printer, radio amateurs are used by the manufacturing technology of printed circuit boards, which is called LUT. However, such a device is far from every home, because even in our time it costs quite expensive. There is also a manufacturing technology using a photoresistive film. However, it also needs a printer to work with it, but already inkjet. It's easier, but the film itself is quite expensive, and the beginning of the radio amateur at first it is better to spend the existing funds for a good soldering station and other accessories.
Is it possible to make a printed circuit board of acceptable quality at home without having a printer? Yes. Can. Moreover, if everything is done, as described in the material, it will take quite some money and time, and the quality will be at a very high level. In any case, the electric current will run on such paths with great pleasure.

List of necessary tools and consumables

It is worth starting with the preparation of instruments, devices and consumables, without which it is easy to do. To implement the budget method of manufacturing printed circuit boards at home, the following will be needed:

1. Figure Development Software.
2. Transparent polyethylene film.
3. Narrow scotch.
4. Marker.
5. Foil fiberglass.
6. Sandpaper.
7. Alcohol.
8. Unnecessary toothbrush.
9. Tool for drilling holes with a diameter of 0.7 to 1.2 mm.
10. Ferric chloride.
11. Plastic tank for etching.
12. Tassel for drawing with paints.
13. Soldering iron.
14. Solder.
15. Liquid flux.

We must be briefly for each item, since there are some nuances, to reach to which it is possible only by experienced.
Programs for the development of printed circuit boards There are a huge amount today, but for a novice radio amateur, the easiest option will be Sprint Layout. It is easy to master the interface, you can use free, there is a huge library, which includes common radio components.
Polyethylene is needed to transfer the drawing from the monitor. It is better to take a film with a rider, for example, from old covers for school books. To attach it to the monitor, any tape is suitable. It is better to take a narrow - it will be easier to unwind (this procedure does not harm the monitor).
On the markers it is worth staying in more detail, as this is a sick topic. To transfer the drawing to polyethylene, in principle, any option will suit. But for drawing on foil styling, a special marker is needed. But there is a small trick, how to save, and not buy enough expensive "special" markers for drawing printed circuit boards. The fact is that these products in their properties are absolutely nothing different from ordinary permanent markers that are sold 5-6 times cheaper in any stationery store. But the marker must necessarily have the inscription "PermaNENT". Otherwise, nothing will happen.

Foil fiberglass can be taken any. Better if it is thorough. Beginners with such a material work much easier. To clean it, we need sandpaper with the graininess of about 1000 units, as well as alcohol (there is in any pharmacy). The last consumator can be replaced with a liquid for the information of the nail polish, which is in any house where a woman lives. However, this remedy is quite dismissal smelling and weathering for a long time.
For the drilling of the board it is better to have a special mini drill or engraver. However, you can go and cheaper. It is enough to buy a collet or cam patron for small drills and adapt it to an ordinary household drill.
Chlorine iron can be replaced by other chemicals, including those that are already probably in your home. For example, a solution of citric acid in hydrogen peroxide is suitable. Information on how the alternative chlorine gland is prepared for etching boards, without problems can be found on the network. The only thing that is worth paying attention is to the container for such chemistry - it should be plastic, acrylic, glass, but not metallic.
About the soldering iron, solder and liquid flux is not worth talking more. If the radio amateur reached the issue of manufacturing a printed circuit board, then with these things it is already familiar with these things.

Development and transfer of drawing board on the template

When all of the above tools, fixtures and consumables are prepared, you can take on the development of the board. If the manufactured device is not unique, then it will be much easier to download its project from the network. Even the usual drawing in JPEG format is suitable.

Want to go more difficult - draw a board yourself. This option is often inevitable, for example, in situations when you do not have exactly the same radio components that are needed to build the original board. Accordingly, replacing the components of the counterparts, they have to highlight the place on the fiberglass, customized holes and tracks. If the project is unique, the fee will have to be developed from scratch. For this, you need the above-mentioned software.
When the board layout is ready, it remains only to be transferred to a transparent pattern. Polyethylene is fixed directly on the monitor using the tape. Next, we simply translate the existing drawing - tracks, contact pins and so on. For these purposes, it is best to use the same permanent marker. It is not erased, it does not smear, and it is clearly visible.

Preparation of foil glass stylist

The next step is the preparation of fiberglass. First you need to cut it off to the size of the future fee. Do it better with a slight margin. For the cutting of foil glass, you can use some of several ways.
Firstly, the material is perfectly cut with a metal hacksaw. Secondly, if you have engraver with cutting circles, it will be convenient to use it. Thirdly, the fibercstolite can be cut off the size of the stationery knife. The principle of cutting is the same as when working with a glass cutter - a cut slicer is applied in several passes, then the material is simply shaken.

Now it is necessary to clean the copper layer of fiberglass from the protective coating and oxide. The best way than the processing of emery paper is not for solving this task. The graininess takes from 1000 to 1500 units. The goal is to get a pure shiny surface. It is not worth the mirror glitter to clean the copper layer, since small scratches from the sandpaper increase the adhesion of the surface, which will be needed further.
In conclusion, it remains only to clean the foil from dust and traces of your fingers. For this use alcohol or acetone (lacquer removal fluid). After processing to the copper surface, we do not touch your hands. For subsequent manipulations, we grab the glassstolite abroad.

Combining the template and fiberglass

Now our task is to combine the pattern obtained on polyethylene with a prepared glassstolic. For this, the film is superimposed on the right place and positioned. The remains wrapped on the opposite direction and are attached with the help of all the same tape.

Drilling holes

Before drilling, it is recommended in any way to secure the fiberglass with a template on the surface. This will achieve greater accuracy, and also eliminate the sudden turning of the material during the passage of drill through. If you have a boring machine for such a job, then the described problem will not arise at all.

You can drill holes in a fiberglass at any speed. Someone works on small revolutions, someone on big. Experience shows that the drill themselves serve much longer if they are operated at low speeds. So it is more difficult to break, bend and damage sharpening.
Holes are drilled directly through polyethylene. Landmarks will serve future contact pins drawn on the template. If a project requires, then change the drill to the desired diameter in a timely manner.

Drawing tracks

Next, the template is removed, but not thrown away. To the copper coating, we still try not to touch your hands. For drawing tracks, we use a marker, necessarily permanent. It is clearly visible on the trail that he leaves. It is better to draw in one pass, because after the froze of the varnish, which is in the permanent marker, edit will be very difficult to do.

As a reference point, we use the same pattern from polyethylene. You can also draw in front of the computer, referring to the original layout, where there is marking and other marks. If there is an opportunity, then it is better to use several markers with tips of different thickness. This will allow you to more efficiently draw and thin tracks, and extensive polygons.

After applying the pattern, we definitely wait for a while necessary for the final hardening of the varnish. You can even dry the hairdryer. From this will depend on the quality of future tracks.

Etching and cleaning tracks from marker

Now the most interesting is the etching of the board. There are several nuances that few people mention, but they significantly affect the quality of the result. First of all, we prepare a solution of chlorine iron according to the recommendations on the package. Usually, powder is diluted with water in a 1: 3 ratio. And then the first advice. Make a solution more saturated. This will help speed up the process, and the drawn tracks will not be offended before everything you need will be broken.

Immediately the Council is the second. Bath with solution is recommended to immerse in hot water. You can heat it in metal dishes. Increased temperature, as is known since a school program, significantly accelerates a chemical reaction that is etched by our board and is. Reducing the time of procedure on our hand. The track marker is sufficiently unstable, and the smaller they will rock in the liquid, the better. If at room temperature the board in the chlorine gland will deteriorate for about an hour, then in warm water, this process is reduced to 10 minutes.
At the end of another advice. In the process of etching, although it is accelerated due to heating, it is recommended to constantly move the board, as well as to consider the reaction products with a brush for drawing. Combining all of the above manipulations It is quite possible to raise extra copper in just 5-7 minutes, which is just an excellent result for this technology.

At the end of the procedure, the fee must be thoroughly rinsed under running water. Then drip it. It remains only to wash off traces from the marker, still closing our tracks and patch. It is all the same alcohol or acetone.

Lunetration of printed circuit board

Before the logging, once again we will be going through the copper layer of sandpaper. But now we do it extremely careful not to damage the tracks. The easiest and most affordable method of tinning is traditional, with the help of a soldering iron, flux and solder. You can also use rose or wood alloys. There is also a so-called liquid tin on the market, which can significantly simplify the task.
But all these new technologies require additional costs and some experience, because the classic method of tinning is suitable for the first time. A liquid flux is applied to the purified paths. Next, the solder is gained on the sting of the soldering iron and is distributed according to the remaining copper after etching. It is important to warm up the tracks, otherwise the solder may not "stick."

If you still have alloys of a rose or wood, they can be used and not using technology. They just wonderfully melted with a soldering iron, are easily distributed over the tracks, do not come down in lumps that for a novice radio amateur will be only a plus.

Conclusion

As can be seen from the above, the budget technology of manufacturing printed circuit boards at home is really affordable and inexpensive. Neither a printer, nor iron nor a robust photoresistive film. Using all the above-described tips, you can easily make the simplest electronic, without investing in this big money, which is very important in the first stages of the business of radio amateur.

lupo.Well, so the same and continue, all the more so the fee to order, and, obviously, the time is limited, and they spend a lot to spend a lot of time. My "secrets" since the times I painted paint:

A) Using an insulin syringe with a waste (not blurred!) To 4-5 mm removable thin (pink) needle.
b) the use of non-nitrocracy, but enamels of PF diluted with appropriate solvents (in no case are not acetone and acetone-containing solvents! - Contrary to seeming logic, diluted with acetone PF will dry a week).
c) enough liquid dilution of the enamel and adjustment of the "feed" insert in the needle of the wire - the diameter is selected experimentally - to eliminate the spontaneous flow of "ink". With the same purpose, the syringe is undesirable to fill more than 2-3 mm above the needle level. In this case, the paint "sucks" from the needle due to the capillary effect only during drawing. Under hand you have to have a piece of cardboard - even with a short break to "paint", the needle will have to be confused by a syringe, and at the same time a drop crawls, which when trying to "paint" the syringe directly on the board will lead to a blossom.
d) First, all the five-way contact pads are described, then the board is given time to dry up to the state of "non-tax" to the pyataks of the line - an hour 3 at least)
e) Drawing lines are carried out under a ruler with beveled inside by the bottom edge - to eliminate the leakage of paint. At the same time, according to the project, the horizontal lines are first drawn (with a reserve on both sides - the PF, unlike the nitra, the fact that it is easier to clean it, until it dried (even for a ruler, which is very convenient when the "grids" is very convenient For example, with this technology, for example, on the rotations of multi-digit tires), then the board gives time to dry, and then the vertical lines are drawn. At this point, as a rule, "forgotten" horizontal is found - then the vertical lines are also drawn with a margin, and on the site of the skipped horizontals Ball handle markers are made - for subsequent Dorivovka.
e) After driving the verticals, if necessary, it is drawn diagonally, and you can immediately make the submissions, "tails" of horizontals, etc. The advantage of the PF - it retains the plasticity for quite a long time, and at stripping it does not rock, unlike nitra. Due to this, when spent skills, you can safely between the legs of the chip in a step of 2.5 mm "tight" two tracks. 0.5 mm The track subject to these recommendations is the standard width of the track, with very large painstaking, carefully selection of the peeling of the paint and the diameter of the wire-insert - 0.3 mm can be pulled out. Solve with pyataks legs? Yes, and x with them - after dried up, the insulating gaps are calm and without strain "are drawn" with a scraper. No need to try to eliminate the shakes immediately - it will only lead to the dirt on the board! Let them get angry (I usually requiring subsequent attention "sharpeners" noted in the project figure with a sequencer with a marker, and eliminated after a full draw of the board tracks).
g) give the board to dry at least 4 hours, at least until the feeling of the "sticking" of the finger to the last drawn tracks will disappear.
h) Well, everything ... Next - chlorine iron, final inspection and, if necessary, stripping. The durability of paint perfectly allows at high laying non-uniformity (very tight pattern with thin tracks in some places, and large parts in others) to avoid subcolting the already spent tracks to stop the overall mixing of the solution and apply a manual forced (porphoon tampon) on large woven surfaces.
and) the paint with the etched board is nothing the solvent, but under the crane - with the help of flap and "pemoxoli" flap (or any other abrasive detergent) - it allows immediately after washing the paint and missing the drops from the fee to lose its soldering iron, obsuate with a solitocanphole flux ( Better - Activated LTI-120)
K) Enjoy!

Nostalgia ... this way has not been used for years already ... And if there is time and laser printer - ask in the search for forums or in Google request Lut (Laser-iron technology), and there will be happiness. With spent skills (no recommendation rolls for dogma, much depends on the printer, carrier, paper and personal preferences) This technology allows you to receive quality fees even above industrial silk screening, with a very stable result. From myself I will add a secret that for some reason omitted in the "lycabes" on LUT - with this technology, wide (powerful) tracks and large painted areas are quite poorly printed - very ugly point subcuting occur. In this case, I usually in the project all the tracks are wider than 1 mm and the "islands" of foil painted only by the contour (line 0.5 mm), after printing the pattern on the board, painting the intercourse space classically - a syringe with paint.

The topic of manufacturing boards is not new, but even more so drawing with a marker or varnish, but in my city there are few places where you can buy a marker. Yes, and almost in all stores they are the same - I did not find all the stores well, I did not find a new one, there are only 2 types of markers, well, even multicolored, but they are not suitable for us. Today we will test such a set of markers for drawing printed circuit boards: 2 handles and nail polish (it is certainly out of competition).

For the experiment, he took a piece of textolite, speckled and began to draw something. It came out something like that, I will immediately say the test we have a brutal and not adequate, but will already give to understand what. The fee left the way for six hours.

Now let's talk about the results and experimental plates in more detail.

Colored blue marker was once nothing to protect the textolit that he is without him without him, and he sank, I disassembled, and the body has kept, it is simply ideally ideal for a dialing device, but now it's not about him.

• Marker, the most that is not on there is an ordinary black marker
• CD Disk Signing Marker
• Two different handles - not helium
• And of course nail polish

So, as you can see, the lacquer coped best, but they are not convenient to draw fees, only to prepare.

Next, a marker for CD, he coped well, and if not to keep 5 hours in a solution, he copes not worse than varnish. There is one feature in it - the drawing part is thin, a little higher is protected by plastic and draw one pleasure for a ruler.

The welfare marker coped in the same way as the previous one, only he has a little more than a drawing tip, but also does not really dry.

Now handles. From the handles and the following was left, I once had a gel pen, so she painted so that one poured! There were tracks from 0.4 mm only somewhere disappeared, when testing I remembered this and decided to check how the present handles paint.

Varnish here - only one advantages, and if I ban the bank from Pot-corrector - so at all the thermonuclear thing comes out for drawing boards! I have enough markers, and it is like this.