During that time, humanity did not have access to simple and reliable plastic packaging. Formed, a whole reservoir of culture associated with the manufacture of wooden mugs, barrels and other utensils.

There is a great many kinds of wooden barrels. Each wooden barrel serves its goal, so the masters were selected the most convenient dimensions and form of products. The most successful, work of artisans, took root in the people, and began the almost unchanged procession from the century to the century, from generation to generation.

Main types of barrels

The main types of wooden barrels are shown in the drawings from below.

Shaka.It was used for rinsing in the baths and small household needs, in the midst of the fun of them drank a honey.

Panter, very user-friendly invention. Used, of course in the Russian bath. It was poured into it twisted boiling water and lined brooms, it was covered on top with a lid on top and there were handles from brooms in the cuts.

Conical barrel, It was used to store various supplies in the cellars, in the winter period of the year.

Classic barrel, I found our application all over the world, the design of it is extremely solid and successful. This barrel is suitable for any fault products, in general, an extremely useful invention.

Fike, were a favorite place to baptize in churches, and also used for rinsing in cold water after a bath. On the excavations find the remnants of huge foxes. For example, a font was discovered in Greece, in which the seven could fit.

Barrels for salting, and the quays were distinguished by a conical shape and a lid with grooves. A large stone was laid on the cover as the oppression. And when the weight of the stone was lacking in the slits, the wedges were driven out than they created even more tension.

Perhaps the latter from the barrels is used to this day - this .

Most of all, spherical shape barrels were used before, as they are well resisting the action of external forces, shocks and shocks; The hoops of these barrels are firmly tightened by the core, successfully confront the pressure exerted by the contents of the barrels, are easily rolled.

Cylindrical barrels are simple for manufacture, but in quality is inferior to the convex barrels, since with a small drying, the hoops cannot be pulled out. They are used for storing dry or dense and viscous products, for wine are already unsuitable.

Conical barrels are also easy for making with their own hands. The upper and lower bottoms have different sizes. These barrels were used mainly as an open-style household dishes.

The barrel consists of the island collected from the Kleptchin of the Bocker; Donovy Donniki Donniki hoops (iron or wooden), fastening the core. The design of the spherical barrel is considered solid if the following ratios are complied with the size of the height and diameters.

The height is greater than the diameter in the middle by 20-25%; The diameter in the middle is larger than the end diameter by 15%.

The most durable is the barrel, the cores of which were assembled from Kleppin the same width and bonded with iron hoops.

Stages of wood barrels

The technology of making wooden barrels is consisted of the following operations: riveting processing, assembly, manufacture and insertion of donis, stuffing permanent hoars.

The riveting prepared in the forest is a rather roughly treated plate (dust) of a rectangular shape with a thickness of thickness and a width for processing and drying.

To obtain klepchin, the sidebar of the required length is worn, and to give the appropriate shape, it is shy, making one side slightly concave, the other slightly convex, then it is completely plasted. The processing of the ripchine of the sidebower ends with the fugging of the side edges at a certain angle to the inner surface of the riveting.

The cores of the barrels are collected as follows. Klekchiny have one end inside the temporary hoop. The other end of Klepps is tightened by the gate Figure 3 and secure the second temporary hoop.

After that, they close the core: cut off the ends, remove the chamfer from them, clean the core inside the lines of the regions of the ultrasound, cut the ultrasounds.

The docking docks are pre-shy and placed completely, then stitched into square shields using the rhombic iron plates as in the figure below (position 1). The shields are placed, then on the surface of them with a circulation outlined circles in accordance with the diameters of the bottom and cut out the bottom. In the circumference, the bottom is removed by the chamfer, which it is inserted into the islar of the island (position 3). When inserting the bottom from the end, the temporary hoop is removed, and the second is lifted. At the same time, the screed is the island weakens, the docks are somewhat diverged, and the bottom of the chamfer is in the easter.

After inserting the bottom, temporary hoops replace constant. Iron hoops (position 2) are stuffed at 6-9, wooden at 14 - 16 pieces on a barrel, having their jacks of 7 - 8 pcs. Often make barrels with different hoops - iron and wooden. In this case, iron hoops put in the units, wooden-in the neck and convex part.

Determination of the container barrel

Technology manufacturing wooden barrels.

The barrel capacity is calculated by the following formula:

• V is the container of the barrel in m3;
• D - larger diameter in m;
• d - smaller diameter in m;
• h - the inner height of the barrel in m;
• π - constant number 3.14

You can also determine the container of the barrel by filling it with water from the measuring vessel.

It is a product that is intended for storage and transporting products. They are insulated and soaked apples, mushrooms, tomatoes. Quasus cabbage and plant watermelons and cucumbers. There are several varieties of barrels. Despite the fact that they differ in the form, their target destination is the same.

• Cloud - ordinary barrel of the usual shape.
• Cuber - bulls of cone-shaped form.
• Support - elongated barrels.

For the first time, the barrels appeared in Russia in the tenth century. They were made by Bondari. Interestingly, the technology of creating barrels has practically not changed over the past centuries. Despite the seeming simplicity, the manufacture is a rather complicated and time consuming process. Soldering barrels are available in a free sale, so most people acquire these products when they have a need. But you can make a barrel yourself. It will take a long time, but will save money. In addition, making a barrel personally, you can be 100% confident in the quality and environmental safety of materials. How to make a barrel yourself, you will learn from this article.

Production of barrels with their own hands: Choosing materials

In the heart of any barrel lies wood. Therefore, the durability of the product will depend on the quality of the selected material. In addition, various trees breed have their own unique qualities that can be both useful and negative. Best for the manufacture of barrels are suitable linden and oak.

Oak barrels serve to preserve the taste of the soles and for their conservation. Thanks to the tanning substances that are contained in this tree, the products in the barrel are preserved longer and saturated with the useful substances. The most common oak breeds used in the Bondar craft is Russian, Ukrainian and Slavic.

Lipa, unlike oak, does not have any impact on stored products. The lime wood is absolutely neutral. But this has its advantages. Products contained in lime barrels, retain freshness and your natural taste. In addition, Lipa is a natural antiseptic, which provides longer storage of products. In terms of making wood, too, more comfortable oak. It has a softer structure, and, as a result, it is better to be processed.

The most unsuitable tree for the manufacture of barrels is the aspen. This tree gives products an unpleasant taste that occurs as a result of storage. The fact is that the Osin allocates resin, and for a long time. For the same reasons, it is not recommended to produce bulls made of coniferous wood. In order for pine barrels, spruce and cedar have become suitable for storing products, they must be soaked for a long time. But even after such a procedure, it is impossible to guarantee a positive result. After the choice of material figured out, you can go to the next step.

Creating pads for salting at home: making clap

Before making these products it is necessary to determine the height and diameter of the future barrel. This will make it possible to accurately calculate the required number of clans. Deciding with the size of the product, you can proceed to the manufacture of claps.

For this, a wooden chock is taken to a length of a little more than the future barrel (approximately 2-3 centimeters). Chock is cleaned of the bark and put an end to the firm base. Now it must be divided into parts. You can do this in two ways: split or cut. Experts recommend to split the workpiece. This allows not to destroy the structure of the wood, which, in turn, serves as a guarantee of the durability of the product. Wood, from which you are going to make claps, should be dry. Then products are obtained more reliable, in addition, a dry tree is better processed.

If you want to make a barrel according to all the rules, a tree intended for clans needs to be keen over several months. The process must pass under the conditions of the natural environment. The sun and wind will make wood more durable. So, moving directly to the splitting. On the ends of chocks are made notches. Then they take an ax, dripping his edge into the made notch and with the help of lung tapping on the outer they split the workpiece. Please note that the more the fibers are contained in the wood structure, the more gloss. The recommended thickness should not exceed 20-25 mm.

Then the clans are overshadowed before giving them the necessary form. This aspect directly depends on the form of the future product. It is recommended to make a rectangular shape clocks, and an oval, narrowed to the edges, is more suitable for the barrel. The following important item in the manufacture of barrels is the hoop. Such elements are located at the top, bottom and in the middle of the barrel. It is possible to make them from wood or metal. It is best for these purposes a stainless steel. This is quite durable material, which is practically not subject to corrosion. Steel cut to strips with a thickness of no more than 2 mm. Before proceeding with the assembly, the clans need to disappear. It will make wood softer and militia. What will greatly facilitate work with it. After preparing the material, you can start assembling.

Soldering barrel assembly technology

Cloils are inserted into the closed vertically, the ends are fixed using clamps or other fasteners. To begin with, you can fix three claps, and then to attach everyone else to them. If you have calculated everything correctly, then the blanks will get up like this. Then the middle hoop is stuffed, only then the bottom.

After assembly, the bottom of the barrel is inserted. As a bottom, round blanks are used, chopped or chopped like shields. When they are manufactured, the board is knocked off and fasten with brackets. Paste the bottom in the core as follows. The extreme hoop is weakened, insert the bottom and tighten again. Depending on the design, the barrel can have two bottom, one of which will perform the role of the lid. In this case, the hoop is weakened from the other end of the barrel and the procedure is repeated. After that, the barrel surface is processed by the plane. It is necessary in order to give the product a more presentable look, and also eliminate all irregularities.

The final stage of manufacturing barrels for salting

After the barrel is ready, you need to harden it. There are many ways, but here we will look at the easiest and most effective. This is a firing. Thus, our distant ancestors have handled their products, and, oddly enough, this method remains very relevant today. This option is suitable for those cases if the barrel will serve for storing alcohol. The fragrance fragrance will give wine or moonshine more rich taste and aroma.

This is done as follows. The barrel is put on the side and sawdust is placed inside. Fruit trees are best suited, for example, cherries. The sawmills ignite, and the barrel rolling, it allows you to evenly treat the entire inner surface. Please note that sawdust should smooth, not burn. Breeding open fire inside a wooden product, can lead to fire! In addition, it is impossible to use special fluids for burning fires. They include chemicals that are absorbed into the surface of the tree. If the barrel is designed to store food, then the option with firing is not suitable. In this case, it is best to treat the surface of the tree wax. Thus, wood will share with the products with its healing properties.

After hardening, the barrel should be checked for tightness. To do this, it is filled with water. If the product proceeds, do not be afraid, it is a completely normal phenomenon. The tree will swell and flow will stop. About 1 hour is given to such a check. If, after this time, the barrel will give to flow, it means that clans stood loosely. In this case, it is necessary to find and close the existing gaps. Experienced bondari recommend using for these purposes the stalks of the root. They are inserted into the slots and tamper with a knife.

Preparing a barrel to salmon

As mentioned above, the barrels made from oak are best for storing solutions and marinades. Currently, those hostesses that use products for storage barrels of wood, prefer the oak. This breed of wood allows you to protect the marinades from mold. In addition, the Duba contains a tannin. Due to this substance, salted cucumbers or tomatoes for a long time remain crispy and juicy.

Immediately before use, the barrel is recommended to be processed. This is a very important procedure that will depend on the quality of the soles and other billets. Only accurate adherence to all tips and recommendations will allow you to please your relative and friends with delicious and juicy home preservation products.

Regardless of whether you made a barrel themselves or purchased the finished product, the package must be thoroughly rinsed. Thus, you get rid of sawdust, which remained after the manufacturer of the barrel. In addition, in new products, the concentration of tanning substances is quite high. And if you put food in such a barrel, they may have an unpleasant taste. In addition, the characteristic oak smell will interrupt the natural taste and aroma of products. Washing containers must be continued until the water is clean, and the smell will not disappear.

After that, the barrel is usually soaked. Time for this procedure may vary from several days to 1 month. Water in a barrel is recommended to change every two days. Some after soaking are carried out additional ferry treatment. For this, the barrel is filled with half water, with soda breeding in it. Then steam is served through the hose.

Before placing products in a barrel, the container must be made from the inside with steep boiling water. It will not give wood to absorb the smell of stored products. Thus, the possibility of multipurpose use of the barrel appears. And you can not be afraid that the salty cucumbers will have the smell of last year's cabbage. If the products are laid for a long shelf life, it is recommended to make a fumigation of gray. It will kill all the microbes and serve as a guarantee of long-term storage of packers.

When you first use barrels you need to use more salt when salting. This is due to the fact that the part will absorb the tree. Optimal storage conditions are maintained in cool rooms. The cellar or basement is suitable for these purposes. But storage temperature should not be lower than zero! Minus temperatures are suitable only for meat, cranberries and cabbage.

It is not recommended to put a barrel on the ground. It can provoke the formation of mold. Therefore, the best land under the barrel to sprinkle with sawdust. They will absorb moisture. And the container itself is placed on a special stand. After each use, the barrel must be thoroughly rinsed with water and disappear. It is then recommended to dry the container, while avoiding direct sunlight. Drying barrels using the Sun, can lead to what it will fuse.

Some hostesses in the interruptions between the seasons fill with a barrel with water. This is rooted incorrectly. As a result of the impact of moisture, mold and fungus are formed. If there is no need for a barrel, then the best way to store contains containers in a cool place. And necessarily in an empty form!

There is another nuance to use barrels. If the container is intended for storing alcohol or homemade marinades, it is impossible for the packaging for a long time remained dry. If the target destination of the barrel is storage of solid products, then it is not recommended to wet it. Only following all the advice and recommendations for the storage and operation of wooden barrels, you can achieve a positive result. The capacity will serve you for a long time, and the marinades stored in it will retain their juicy taste and an appetizing look. If the process of manufacturing a piece of chips with their own hands seems long and tedious, you can buy a finished product in the company "Alkopribor". Attentive consultants will help you choose the ideal Tar for you, which will serve for a long year!

What can be compared, for example, cucumber or tomato salted in oak tube. And in the lime barrel is perfectly stored honey, apple juice, you can cook kvass in it. Finally, the oak junction with a lemon or laurel tree and today will not spoil the interior of even the urban apartment. That's just not to find these simple items or in the store or on the market. But you can make such a barrel and independently, and although this task is not from simple, to cope with it to the amateur master is quite forces.

Step 1. Wood selection

Before creating barrels, you need to choose wood. For storage of honey oak and pine are unsuitable - in the oak barrel, honey darkens, and in pine smells a resin. Here you need linden, aspen, chinar. Survive and poplar, vet, alder. But for the salting, joy or urine, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve not one decade. For other needs, you can use wheezing, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch, and even birch.

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees is going on, it is called - "Rippoint". But a fan of marshy and from ordinary firewood will choose the workpiece, and the thinner trunk will adapt to the case. It is best to make rivets from raw wood.

Step 2. Split Chocks

At first, a chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - they are split off in half, carefully tapping with a full-time axle. Each half is then cololled again into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chocks (Fig. 1), to ultimately get a blank with a width of 5-10 cm (for the donon - 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. It is only necessary to try to split it radially - it will save a riveting in the future from cracking.

Step 3. Drying Billet and Processing

Thick blanks dried indoors with natural ventilation at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use the dryer. The dried billet is treated with a row or shropele and a planer. Initially, the outer surface of the riveting is plane. At the same time, to test the curvature of the surface, the template should be made in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of the fine plate along the finished product. Next plasten the side surfaces, also to check their curvature by the template.

The riveting is the rustier - which one end is wider than the other, and a barrel - with the expansion in the middle. The magnitude of these extensions determines the taper of the pipe and the bulge of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the relation between the widest and narrow part of the riveting is 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).

The side surface treatment is completed by the fog. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece on a foam (Fig. 4).

Step 4. Treatment of riveting on the inside

At the next stage, we proceed the inner (with respect to the finished barrel) the surface of the riveting, shining excess wood with a planer or even an ax (Fig. 5). The plowing riveting after that can be finished ready, and the boar must still be sophisticated with a middle up to 12-15 mm (Fig. 6). Let you not bother you that rivets can have a different width, of each workpiece we take everything possible.

Step 5. Billet hoop

Hoops for barrels are made of wood or steel. Woods are not as durable, and the hassle is a hundred times more, so it is better to use steel. On the hoops there is a hot rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.

Measuring the barrel at the site of the hoop stretch, add a double bandwidth to this size. Hammer blows bending the blank into the ring, pierce or drill holes and put rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be fragmented by impacts of a pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).

At the place of location on the product, the hoops differ on the bucked - the central hoop on the barrel, the umern - the extreme and cervical - intermediate.

Step 6. Product Assembly

To one master for all the hands of the grandmother brought a scattering rider with a request to collect. That I had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. I came up with the following: I threw the rope on the floor and lay on it alone to another riveting. Then pressed them with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope. Removing gradually pillows, reduced extreme rivets and secured the hoop.

Bondari do it easier.

The product is assembled on any smooth surface. Initially, to the hoop against each other are attached with special brackets, bent from the hoop iron, two rivets (Fig. 9). Then, putting a riveting to one of them, get to another, which will wait for the collected half of the barrel. We will continue the assembly until the riveting will be filled with the entire perimeter of the hoop.

A slightly tapping with the hammer on the hoop, hesitated and check it, whether the edges of the riveting were tightly tight. To achieve riveting contact over the entire side surface, you need to add a riveting or pull out too much and then put a constant hoop. By the way, if the change in the number of rivets does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the rivets or replace the narrow to wider.

Having poured with light blows of the hammer ends ends, we put on the middle hoop and put it up to the stop with the help of the nabber (Fig. 10).

Step 7. Pruning the isow and final screed

Having exhibit the core on a flat surface, describe a pencil using a bar (Fig. 11) Cub line. After planning a helical hoop, cutting the core of 2-3 mm from it and we clean the ends of rivets by the plane. In the same way, and with the other end of the edition.

When making a barrel, after nozzle onion, cervical and a helical wrap on one side, the other side you need to take half. Bondari have a special adaptation for this - yoke. The home wizard can use the cable, rope, chain or wire for the same purposes. You can get a loop and twist it with a gauge or pull the ends of the cable with the lever (Fig. 12).

No rapark or coast of the island, as some experts recommend, do not need to do before tighing. Occasionally, however, it happens that the riveting begins not along the entire length, but in one place and therefore gives a crack. However, Bochar in such cases would prefer to just make a new riveting.

Step 8. Stripping is the island from the inside

The assembled core from the inside is preparing a row or the ends of the ends - the placle - Gorbach (Fig. 13).
Now in the cozoi you need to make a helical groove (Fig. 14). The tool cutter can be made of hoop iron, and even better, from the saw blade. The depth and width of the groove must be equal to 3 mm (Fig. 15).

Step 9. Production of a bottom board

Initially, a bottom shield is collected from the donon with the downtroken outer side and the undercrowd sides surfaces (Fig. 16). The donon is bonded by nails, as shown in the figure, for which the jacks of 15-20 mm depth in advance are drilled. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of the right hexagon, inscribed in the circumference of the auctor groove on the core barrel. However, it is necessary to cut down the bottom with a margin, retreating from the outlined circle by 1 - 1.5 mm. After stripping the shropelem from the edge of the bottom, the chamfer is cut (Fig. 17) so that three millimeters from the edge of the wood thickness was 3 mm - this is necessary for the tightness of the bottom of the bottom with an outer in a helical sinus (Fig. 18).

Step 10. Fitting the bottom board

We make the first fitting - weakening the hoop, put the bottom, introducing one of its side into the groove, and then with light blows of the hammer and the rest. If the bottom goes tight, you need to still weaken the hoop, and if too loose - click.

After stuffing, the hoop should be verified in the absence of cracks. The ideal result is rarely achieved from the first time. If even the gaps are not visible to the eye, they can be found, the bill in the barrel is a little water. If flowing between rivets, it means that the bottom is too much and it is necessary to fool it slightly. Worse, if the water proceeds through the bottom or through a spoken groove. Then you have to disassemble the core and narrow one of the rivets.

Step 11. Installation of the second bottom

Before installing the second bottom, it should be drilled a bulk hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm. The plug is done, as shown in Fig. 19, its height should be at least the bottom thickness, however, the cork should not appear for the plane of the edge of the island.

Step 12. Painting

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that it is not necessary to paint the fuel tanks of oil paint: it closes the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. Wrap it is desirable to paint - they will not rust. In decorative purposes, the barrel, the floral ride can be treated with rubbers.

A brown color of the oak gives harated lime into a mixture with a 25 percent solution of ammonia. The black solution of iron vapor or infusion for 5-6 days of iron sawdust in vinegar.

The decoction of the rhizomes of the shamery of the scented (Asperula Odo-Rata) stains in a red lamp and aspen. Red and brown gives a decoction of onion husk, brown-hangwood walnuts. These dyes and brighter chemicals, and more stable.

It is necessary to remember that the wood is better saved with constant moisture mode. Therefore, dry products should always be kept dry, and bulk - filled liquid. And those and others can not be put directly to the Earth. It is better to substitute a brick or a packer under the barrel than subsequently get rid of rot, cut the ultrasounds.

But no matter how much Barrel served, all this time it will be the owner of a pleasant reminder of overcome difficulties in comprehending the secrets of the ancient Crafts of Bondar.

Barrels and bans are in great demand in the household. They keep in brine of the fat, ham, roaming cabbage, uroat apples. What can be compared, for example, cucumber or tomato salted in oak tube. And in the lime barrel is perfectly stored honey, apple juice, you can cook kvass in it.

Finally, the oak junction with a lemon or laurel tree and today will not spoil the interior of even the urban apartment. That's just not to find these simple items or in the store or on the market. But you can do it yourself, and although this task is not simple, to cope with it to the amateur mastery is quite bye. We will tell you more about the manufacture of these capacities in the farm.

First of all, you need to choose wood. For storage of honey, oak and pine are unsuitable - in the oak barrel, honey darkens, and in the pine smells the resin. It is necessary for linden, aspen, chinar. Survive and poplar, vet, alder. But for the salting, joy or urine, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve not one decade. For other needs, you can use wheezing, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch, and even birch.

Determined with the sizes you will help here such a table.

Notice, here are the sizes of barrels to choose the size for the pipe, the height and diameter of the head remains the same. The diameter in the bunch of barrels (diameter in the center) for the pipe goes into the bottom diameter.

When the size is selected, you need to proceed to rivets, the main component of the barrel.

Give the sizes of rivet

There is another way to determine the size. The ratio of the pitch or barrel diameter should be in proportion, for example, 350: 490 mm (Fig. 1-6). Increasing or reducing height, change the diameter of the container. The number of rivets for barrel or chubs is calculated according to the formula 2 * PI * R / W, where R is the radius of the pipe in the lower section (for the barrel - in the middle); "PI" is a constant value of 3.14; W is the riveting width on the bottom of the pipe (for a barrel - in the middle).

Kleck

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees is going on, it is called - "Rippoint". But a fan of marshy and from ordinary firewood will choose the workpiece, and the thinner trunk will adapt to the case. It is best to make rivets from raw wood. At first, a chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - they are split off in half, carefully tapping with a full-time axle. Each half is then coluting into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chocks, ultimately get a blank 5-10 cm wide (for the donon - 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. You only need to try to split She walked radially - it would save the riveting in the future from cracking.

Thick blanks dried indoors with natural ventilation at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use the dryer. The dried billet is treated with a row or shropele and a planer.

Marking riveting.

Take a plate width from 30 to 100 mm, along the outer side, a line is carried out that divide the riveting in half in width (for the barrel - and in length). For the taper of the pipe (barrels), it is necessary to withstand the tape of riveting. It should be about 8 °. This means that with the width of riveting on the bottom of the pipe (for the barrel - in the middle) 100 mm, at the top it should be 8 mm already, i.e. 92 mm. And for the barrel at the top and bottom - 92 mm. Fix the installed riveting width with dots and connect 4 points with lines - for public and 6 points - for barrel. These are planing guidelines that determine the taper. The plane of the radius segment on the template, its direction to the center together with the already defined slope of the future head of the barrel or tube is the main requirement for the mouth of the riveting one to the other during a sewage. Therefore, it is necessary to make a template to the treated cloth, checking the planing.

Ostrog Cloch.

It is plasted by a riveting of the Rovenkom, causing every thickness, and immediately determine which side will be outdoor. For this we get the left and right side of the riveting along the length. Squarel with oval base and iron plane on the template (Fig. 5) the inner side is completely and carried out with a pencil line dividing riveting in half along length. Then the riveting in length is shoved and remove the separation line on the ends. Semi-cell (FUNCOM) is processed by the outdoor and side sides of the riveting, the correctness of the planing is verified by the template. It is made on the radius of the assembly hoop for the pipe, and for the barrel - on the radius of the PUP hoop, made in advance. For a barrel with two bottoms, two pairs of hoops are harvested - 2 stubborn and 2 PUPs. Pup wrap should flow freely through the resistant one.

Especially carefully check the correctness of the side of the side of the riveting for the barrel. The template must fit tightly to the side and outdoor sides of the riveting, especially in the midline dividing the riveting in half in length. When planing side sides, you cannot allow deviations from the line brought to the end and the deserted riveting in half.

Hoops

Hoops for barrels are made of wood or steel. Woods are not as durable, and the hassle is a hundred times more, so it is better to use steel. On the hoops there is a hot rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.

Measuring the barrel at the site of the hoop stretch, add a double bandwidth to this size. Hammer blows bending the blank into the ring, pierce or drill holes and put rivets from soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm. One inner edge of the hoop must be fragmented by blowing the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand.

Assets assembly

The assembly hoop is made by the average between the riding and the bottom of the pipe and slightly smaller diameter for the midline for the barrel. On a pure wooden base, we put a vertically assembly hoop and put 5-6 rivets inside the outside to the hoop. On the left, one of the rivets and the hoop clamp clamp. Slightly raise the hoop and spread the remaining rivets. Close the hoop. Tight fit of rivets along the entire length (for publication) and to the midline (for a barrel) - the result of thorough ingots and fitting. In the same way, we collect the cores for the barrel, but here we remove the assembly hoop after the navel of the PUP hoop, then stubborn hoop. If it snaps tightly, it means that we are correctly plashed and correctly picked up the last riveting in width.

The cores for the barrel from the middle or slightly above the fan-like diverge to its bottom. For tightening the dissolved end of the isow, various methods and devices are used. The end of the steel stranded cable with a diameter of 6-8 mm is fixed for fixed support. The second end is thrown onto the hot, packed dissipated core, attached to the head of the post from the ground inserted for this purpose, or a raised part of the log and the method "Removing", with the help of a strong cola inserted into the loop at the end of the cable, "twist" the cable and put on Pup, and then thorough hoops.

After the assembly of the core is tested on horizontal and verticality and hesitate completely all hoops. From the inside of the island (barrels or tubes), it is cleaned, and in the ends of the rivets are cut into 1/3 of the thickness (Fig. 6) and 2-3 mm from the outside. Finally cleaned outdoor and inside the island, the upper and lower ends fell.

Installing Donets in the Easpens

For this, several operations are performed.

1. Cutting a helical groove in the cooler. The helper applied a helper groove. The width of the divorce of the tooth steel file is 4-5 mm. Therefore, the width of the cutting udering groove should be 4-5 mm. The sawturo performs from a coated bar of a coat of 4-5 mm. Therefore, the depth of the groove of the air can not be different. Brusker's thickness of the coat is a distance limiter of a distance of a rid of the ultra of the top to the bottom of the plank, on which the bar is fixed, i.e. 40-50 mm. Mandatory on both sides of the auctor groove, it is necessary to remove the chamfer of 2-3 mm or a little more to prevent the skill of the cable at the insertion of the Donia and the compression of their hoops.

2. Build bottom shields. They are collected on wooden or metal (preferably stainless) studs-nails of 4-6 skulls. Extreme are called jambs, medium - ladels. On the shoals take a plank that wider. We still do not yet know the diameter of the circumference on the cooler. We take the circulation (Fig. 4) and weeping his legs about the radius of the alleged circumference along the cooler, insert the tip of the feet of the circulation into the user, divide the circle on 6 parts. Thus, we will define the radius of the circumference on the publication for the Donets. We transfer the resulting radius to the bottom shield and draw a circle.

3. Dipping of the Donents. Loop the desired dona with an ampagular saw or spinned hacksaw. At the same time, the propyl should be on the inside of the line, the battered circle when the dust separation of the saws is 2-2.5 mm. By this we reduce the diameter of the circle by 0.14 permanent "PI".

4. Date processing. We put the dont-circle on the workbench, completely from two sides, in the face of a pencil in the middle of the line with a thickness of 3-4 mm. A radius of 25-30 mm smaller than the Donette, to do so on two sides of the circle. These are the borders of the soles. The chisel or plans will remove the chamfer and make sure that the arsenic grooves and the filmed stage of the Donets fit well. Line on the end of the Donets leave untouched.

5. Installing the Donents. This is the final barrel manufacturing operation or tub. I turn over the energies of the public a wide part and slightly knock down the lower hoop. The barrel is knocked up stubborn, and the navel hoop is shifted so much so that the Donets come into a helical groove. Hold the donation in a horizontal position when installing in Urban, a kapron thread will help, crucifably tieting the bottom. When the Donets are installed in the ultrasters, the thread is pulled out, the hoops put in place. Before installing the second dona, two tongue holes opposite each other are drilled in it and 4-5 cm from the inner side of the outstand with a diameter of 20-25 mm, which put the tongs so that the barrel does not get the garbage. After installing the second dona, the hoops finally stuff and follow that the Donets are fascinated by rivets in the units, and the ripples would not have gaps among themselves. If the ripples were properly planed and sustained a slope on the template, drank neatly the Donets, the product would be high quality.

Take note.

1. Before assembling the cores for barrel or tubs, the treated riveting must be dried up to 17-20% humidity.

2. Push the oak, spruce, pine, aspen barrels and tubs need not less than 10 days, changing water in 2-3 days. At the same time, shoals and skias are soaked, which pressed the fermented products.

3. To reduce the formation of mold on riveting pads during storage in the cellar, it is wiped with a tampon, moistened in the calcined vegetable oil. Jocks, skias and clamping stone once a week washed with hot water.

How many barrel serve

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that it is not necessary to paint the fuel tanks of oil paint: it closes the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. Wrap it is desirable to paint - they will not rust. In decorative purposes, the barrel, the floral ride can be treated with rubbers.

A brown color of the oak gives harated lime into a mixture with a 25 percent solution of ammonia. The black solution of iron vapor or infusion for 5-6 days of iron sawdust in vinegar.

The decoction of the rhizomes of the shamery of the scented (Asperula Odo-Rata) stains in a red lamp and aspen. Red and brown gives a decoction of onion husk, brown-hangwood walnuts. These dyes and brighter chemicals, and more stable.

It is necessary to remember that the wood is better saved with constant moisture mode. Therefore, dry products should always be kept dry, and bulk - filled liquid. And those and others can not be put directly to the Earth. It is better to substitute a brick or a packer under the barrel than subsequently get rid of rot, cut the ultrasounds.

But no matter how much the barrel made by their own hands, all this time it will be the owner of a pleasant reminder of overcome difficulties in comprehending the secrets of the ancient Crafts of Bondar.

© Ready barrels in the photo

Instruction

First of all, select wood, depending on your purpose. For storage of honey, linden, aspen, poplar, vehicle, alder are suitable for storage. For salting, quay or urine is best suited. For other needs, they use beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch or birch.

Billets or rivets are made of raw wood, from the bottom of the trunk. Chock, which is a longer than the future riveting on 5-6 cm, radially split on a blank 5-10 cm wide (for the donon 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Then lay the blanks for a month or more indoor with natural ventilation for drying .

Dried billets Treat the tires and the plane, first from the outside, checking the curvature by the template taken from the finished product. Then we treat the side surfaces by Fugansky, as taking into account the curvature on the pattern, and internal, to reduce thickness in the middle - ax.
For the taper of the tub and bulgebly, the magnitude of the riveting extensions has a ratio of 1.7-1.8 between the widest and narrow part. For the pipe wider the bottom end, for the barrel - the middle of the riveting.

For the manufacture of the hoop, take a hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2 mm and a width of 30-50 mm. To calculate the length of the future wrap, to the sizes of the barrel on the site of the screed, add a double bandwidth. Bend the ribbon into the ring, run or drill the holes and scroll with a soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm.
One edge of each wrap is fragmented by a hammer on anvil. At the place of location on the barrel, the hoops are called: the central - "onion", the extreme - "arsenic", intermediate - "cervical".

Collect on a flat surface, pouring two rivets against the helm of the brackets against a friend. Then, in turn insert the following rivets, collecting the first half of the barrel, and also the second half. Crawling with a hammer, hesitate the hoop to a dense joint of riveting edges.
If the gap remains, in which the last riveting is not climbing, do not be afraid to pull it up to the desired width, or remove another narrow riveting and insert wide.

Hang the ends of the island with a hammer, put on the onion hoop and until the stop stops it with the helproom. Having exhibit the foundation exactly, pull the other edge of the island of the rope loop with the lever. Having scored the second helical hoop, allege the ends of rivets by Rovenkom-Gorbsch, 2-3 mm from the hoop.
From one edge of the island, make a depth and width of 3 mm with the help of the inside, in which subsequently insert the bottom.

Come on the bottom of the boobs that fitted around the edges of the boobs, after which do trust in advance drawn circle. Paste the bottom after somewhat weaken the helical hoop, adjusting the density of entry and pressing the hammer with light blows. The second bottom of the other side is also inserted, with the only difference that in it first the bulk hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm is drilled, to which the plug is adjusted.