In this article, on a specific example, we will learn to lay out the apron of tiles in the kitchen, consistently passing all the stages of tile work - from the full preparation of the surface to the stamps of the seams.

Tile laying object

Object: Kitchen in the house

Tile: dimensions - 27 × 40 cm, tile thickness - 7 mm. Located horizontally. Top row - border with dimensions of 27 × 6 cm.

Task: Put the apron from the tile in the kitchen under the furniture on the individual layout, the total volume of surfaces is 7 square meters.

Wall condition for styling apron

Walls are covered with old wallpaper in several layers. Plaster 1974, loose, places sat down. The main wall is a lightweight concrete with a wooden frame, also covered.

In the corner of the room there is a chimney mine 62 × 37 cm, the distance from the door to the mine is 256 cm, the distance from the mine to the opposite wall is 156 cm, the distance from the wall to the slope of the window - 86 cm.

Apron from tiles in the kitchen circuit

The door and windows tile begins on the floor and goes to a height of 195 cm (7 rows and border). On the rest of the space, the tile is on the level of table tops - 81 cm from the floor - in 4 rows - 108 cm + border 6 cm. The layout diagram of the tile layout in the expanded form looks like:

By drawing up a similar scheme, we can easily calculate the number of tiles and borders we need. Be sure to take stock within 10%.

Material and tool for styling apron

To make a thicket apron in the kitchen, prepare the following materials:

• glue for tile reinforced - at the rate of 5 kg / m2, i.e. 35 kg;
• primer acrylic strengthening - 3 kg;
• crosses 2.5 mm - 400 pieces;
• plaster plaster - 30 kg;
• gypsum construction - 1 kg.

Tool

• runner toothed with a "tooth" size of 8 mm;
• spatula wide - 30-40 mm;
• spatula (12 mm);
• electrode shock with a drill along concrete 6 mm (or perforator with a brown 6 mm);
• venchik for the solution;
• hammer with chisel;
• rubber cizyanka;
• tree self-tapping screws (30 -50 pcs.), Dowels;

Another tool

• serpian ribbon;
• motok thick thread;
• the level of construction is 40 cm, the level of construction is 80-100 cm, the carbon is 30-40 cm;
• construction plumbing;
• 2 hypotherapy or rails 4 meters long (necessarily smooth);
• roller (fur or foam), brush;
• screwdriver or screwdriver with a nozzle under the self-tapping screw;
• two tiled profiles for inner angles 250x8, one - for outer 250 × 8.

And further

• set of markers, construction or simple pencil;
• a bucket for a solution and a primer of 10-15 liters (it is best to purchase a paint bucket - in the future there will be no problems with the disposal of residual residues: the solution is left overnight, then the bucket is cut down by rubber image, and the solution in a dry form falls);
• bags for the construction trash - 5 pieces;
• old rags or rags.

This tool is enough to put the apron from tiles in the kitchen.

For cutting tile

You will also certainly need something that you will cut the tile. This will stop more than more.

Cutting method tile

An apron from tiles in the kitchen will surely require cutting tiles. For cutting of a tile, it is necessary to make a deep incision of the glazes and parts of the tile shard, after which itching the tile along the cut line.

To this end, it is possible to use a lot of fixtures - professional glass cutter, lathe cutter, manual tiles (in the form of tweezers) or lever (as the most affordable on sale), with a metal with a string with tungsten carbide alloy, finally corner-grinding machine ( Bulgarian) with a disc on the cafée. For the grinder it is necessary to choose a disk with a "for dry cutting".

When working with the ESM, it is necessary to have certain skills and remember that a lot of dust will appear in the process of work, it means that protection is necessary for the respiratory organs. It is also worth hanging wet sheets on the doorway so that the dust does not penetrate other premises.

Thief Apron in Kitchen - Wall Preparation

Remove old wallpaper to the bottom

To do this, we type in our bucket of warm water, we throw the whisper of the washing powder there, which must necessarily contain surfactants. On the wallpaper with a knife or spatula, we make cuts and with the help of a roller, we use the surface abundantly.

After wetting wallpaper will be easy to flap from the wall. We will scrape them with a spatula. If there are several layers of wallpaper on the wall, we do it in the same layer in the same way. Here and use the garbage bags. In the future, we rinse the wall with clean water, removing the remnants of the wallpaper.

Plaster Wall under the Stacking Apron

Old, poorly holding plaster knocking up to base. In our case, this is a brick. Bricks are abundantly wrapped with water, after drying - soil, using the same roller or brush.

Non-plastered parts of the wooden frame of Olifim or process impregnation for wood. After drying, it is fetters on them a sulfyan tape, which is crimped with self-draws. Next, soil and dry.

Also climb all the pieces of plaster parts of the frame. If wooden structures are deep in the wall, you can fix on the screws of the strip of plasterboard.

In front of the breeding of plaster, we check yourself: wallpapers removed to the base, the old loose and poorly holding plaster removed. When climbing along the wall with a hammer, we do not detect emptiness.

Thus: all surfaces prepared for alignment are primed and sucked.

Electrical wiring before laying apron

We finish all installation work - in this situation it is required for extracts. Bulgarian, perforator or hammer with a chisel on the intended line we make a depth of 1 cm.

Tassel stool the stroke and the surface next to it. We bring in it the wire and fix the solution of building gypsum. Everything, the first working day ended. Our kitchen at the end of the working day looks about this way.

Over the next day, we will have to level the walls, apply a notch in places where the walls are painted, finish all the preparatory activities for facing work.

On this work of the first day end.

Second day of work on stacking apron from tile

We start with measurements of planes and corners for styling apron

We use the construction level of 80-100 cm, plumbing and harvested hypric profile, or direct rail. We check the verticality of the external corners and the wall plane in the horizontal. The lumens between the smooth plane of the profile and the wall should not exceed 5 mm.

We have an external angle - the chimney mine, which has a deviation from vertical 2 cm. But in connection with compressed work time of work (it is necessary to finish all the work within five days) to stucify this angle we will not.

To correct irregularities, for example, in the process of laying the tile, we glue a piece of drywall, thereby aligning deviations from the vertical.

Align the walls before laying an apron of tiles

The dry plaster mix is \u200b\u200bdivorced in the bucket according to the instructions. The solution should be loose, not very liquid and not very thick. Little spatula Put the stucco cakes on the surface, a large spatula - 30-40 cm spread. I cut off the profile or rail, we try to have one plane, both vertically and horizontally.

We carry out the alignment of the walls with plaster mortar, but not plastering. In places where old plaster is shot down, we flatter the layer of the solution with the remains of firmly holding plaster.

Surface after the start of setting the solution is smoothed by a wide spatula. To facilitate the work, you can slightly sprinkle the surface with water. But in this case there is no need for a perfect smooth surface. We are more interested in the absence of lumen between the wall and the profile or speech.

Writing on the paint for better mounting tiles on apron

Among the masters there are a lot of disputes regarding whether to shoot the old paint completely or remove only bad layers? In fact, the paint from the wall can be screamed using a construction hairdryer, various paint washes and other devices.

Before laying the tiles, we are ground with a mandatory surface, it turns out the polymer film, which is the old, well-holding paint. Naturally, exfoliating and expanded places are removed in mandatory, cleaned with cardsket and ground. Mind of melinking paint and whitewashing!

Apron from tiles in the kitchen of notches on the wall

In our case, the paint is very good, the paint film is solid, without traces of exfoliation, swelling and crackling. Therefore, in order for the adhesive solution, in addition to the paint, it was also kept for concrete or plaster, we make a notch on the paint and varnish.

The hammer with the chisel, the perforator, the "grinder" we pierce the film and part of the substrate. On the square meter it is better to make up to 100 notches. Believe me, on the old plaster this work is not a great difficulty. We make a "grinder" with a cutting disc on concrete.

We treat the grid with the depth of the rice to 0.5-1 cm. In mandatory after notch, the surface is ground. Risks should also be braced using a brush.

Important! If, with a notch, the old plaster falls off, we, naturally, remove it and then - see above.

Results of the second day of laying tiles on apron

We look at the plastered surfaces: they have already reset, although the solution is slightly wet to the touch. At the end of the second day, all the surfaces prepared under the laying of the tile are completely primed.

Thus, in the second day, we leveled the walls with plaster plaster, made a notch in places where our paint is firmly held and uploaded all the surfaces on which the tile will go. We remove trash. Tomorrow we have the most difficult.

Laying tiles on apron

The complexity of the preparatory work described above is due only to the fact that our apron of tiles in the kitchen is stacked in an old building. I am confident that in buildings of later building, such extreme preparatory work will be required. Often everything is limited to light alignment and primer.

Usually, the apron of tiles in the kitchen is laid out from the so-called "red corner": in the most prominent place, an angle of whole tiles is laid out, and trimming are made at the end of the rows.

Designation of the horizontal level of the first row of the apron of tiles

We start working with the fact that you beat off the horizontal line through the perimeter with a laser level. The line is located on the upper edge of the third floor tile, i.e. At an altitude of 81.75 (82 cm).

Since the laser level in the economy is not often, we do this way:

We post a plumb on the doorway, thus obtaining a vertical label in which we will focus the tile.

Electrodel with a nozzle mixing glue. We mix the glue exactly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. When breeding glue and apply it to the surface, we remember that the efficiency of the diluted solution ranges within 1-2 hours, the open time (during which it can be glued to the surface of the glue) - 10-20 minutes.

Glue with the help of a toothed spatula on the wall in the place where the tiles are laid bordering the floor. By the way, we will apply glue on the wall in all cases, with the exception of angular tiles.

We applied a narrow spatula with a thin layer of glue on the back of the tile. We have heavy tiles, so it does not hurt. We do the same in the process of all work.

Next, go directly to the work on laying tiles

1st tile

We set the first tile on our apron of tiles in the kitchen. We press it with a slight movement, with the help of rubber Cyanka sedent.

Using a short level, exhibit tiles vertically and horizontally. If something is required to put something under the bottom edge to fix the tile in the correct position, we swear the box from under the tiles and put the paper. Everything can go to the move.

Tile check the plane. To do this, apply the level to the glazed side of the tile. In case the tile costs not by level, remove it and put it or remove the glue as needed.

Important! The first tiles must be installed immaculately. The final result of our work depends on them.

2nd tile

Before installing the 2nd tile, pay attention to the drawing. The drawing should be located equally on all tiles, including trim tiles. Usually from the back side of the tile there is an arrow or another pointer. When laying, they must be in the same direction.

We put the second tile, check it in the same way, there are two crosses between the bordering edges. Seam Checking your fingers - the transition should not be felt. We install the third tile on the first tile. We check the corner angle between the vertical face and the horizontal edge of the second tile.

4-5-6th tiles

In the same way, we set the fourth, fifth and sixth tiles.

Long levels check the plane vertically, horizontally and diagonals. There are no lumen between the cash side of the tile and the level. Crossings are installed as shown in the figure, between horizontal and vertical edges - 2 pieces on the rib tiles.

Crossing can be installed in the junction between the tiles. If there is a mismatch on the edges (in our case, this indicates the deviation of the tile geometry from the standard or about the difference in size), in the seams additionally insert all the same pieces of the box to the cross.

The figures in the figure shows the sequence of laying tiles in our case.

Stay further

The first six tiles are laid. And if we did not do this first using a laser or water level, you need to beat off the horizontal guide line and set the supports for the tile.

For this purpose, cut the harrowdable hypric profile or rail in size from the tile №6 to the wall, we connect the top of the profile or rails with the upper face of the tile number 6.

Tiles 7 and 8

We apply the level to the profile or rake and set it strictly horizontally. We make two marks - at the beginning and near the wall. After that, a pencil or twin cord (if there is such a farm) we spend direct. For this direct crepim profile.

Right through the profile, we drill 2-3 holes, insert the screws with dowels and screw them up to the stop. Thus, we do in the entire perimeter of the surface that is subject to facing. So, the temporary stand for the tile is ready. Putting tiles number 7 and number 8.

Little »Tile

I exhibit "Mayary" tiles. "Lighthouse" tiles or "lighthouses" are set in order not to lose the horizontal and vertical of the rows and to withstand the laying plane. Subsequently, the "lighthouses" is removed and used as ordinary tiles.

On the interval between the wall and the 8th tile approximately in the center (it is important to have enough level length for the horizontal check) set the tile. It is focused in the same way as the tiles of the first row.

Tile 9.

The following tile (in the figure it is under No. 9) exhibit near the inner corner. In the same way withstand verticality, horizontal location. After that, we remove the intermediate tile, consider the solution from it and use the tile in the further cladding.

According to the "Mayak" tile No. 9, we set the tile on the wall of the chimney mine (No. 10). If you carefully look at the layout of the tile layout, then we can see that we put the full tile on the chimney mine from the outer angle, bring the trimming into the angle. Therefore, by applying the level to the "light-old" tile, beat off the horizontal line. By it, focusing tiles number 10. I exhibit horizontally and vertical.

Tile number 10.

No. 10 performs 2 cm abroad of an external angle. For the convenience of work, you can pull the steering cord (the thread for this is seized). In the figure, it is shown in red.

Over the far ends of tiles No. 6 and No. 9, at the same distance (5-10 mm) above the upper faces of the tiles, drill holes and on the dowels we screw the screws. The hat should not reach the wall in both cases 15 mm.

Fresh and stretch the thread along the Hats. In the future, this will help us correctly set a number. You can repeat the option with a fold of vertical and horizontal lines. This is done for our convenience.

From the 8th tile towards the corner, we continue to lay out the horizontal range. Having reached the "lighting" tiles, we remove it, consider the solution and we use in the future.

The row is brought to the corner. It remains to put cropped tiles, start profiles and form an inner corner. We start with a trim tile on the chimney mine.

Roulette, a carbon measuring the distance between the vertical base of the tile No. 10 and the inner angle. From the size, take 7 mm: 2.5 - seams and 4.5 mm - stock. Remembering the drawing on the tile, in the carbon felt-tipset, mark the cut line. On this line, we sharply make an incision on the glaze tiles.

How to cut a tile for apron

For trimming tiles there are a whole tool set (about the instrument)

When using manual stovetur, glass cutter or lathe cutter, it will not be superfluous to do in a ruler. Next, the inspection area is slightly closed on the back of the tile. The tile is broken by a blow to the angle of the table or the edge of the bar, etc.

If we use lever tiles, then the tile is placed on the bed, pressed to the guide label in the center. The lever is assigned back and a sharp movement forward roller is made incisions on the glaze, after which the lever movement down the tile is cleaned.

In the case of the use of "Bulgarian" (remember the protection of the respiratory organs), the disk is made of light inclination along the line, after which the tile is easily cleaned. There is no sense to suck the tile.

Laying of cropped tiles in the corners

Cropped tile glue on the wall, applying (this time) the layer of glue is not on the wall (read about the glue), as we did all this time, and on the back side of the tile.

Putting the tile and (this is important!) Expose the plane strictly vertically the cropped face against the wall.

The upper face is focused on the upper edge of the adjacent tiles vertical seams should be strictly parallel with the vertical seam of adjacent tile.

Crossbars between them should be pressed. To do this, we swear a piece of paper from the box and score it between the wall and the cropped face.

Similarly, measure and cut the tile on the first wall (do not forget about the figure). The distance can be measured between the vertical facet of the previous tile and the plane of the corner. By the distance add 5 mm. Since the corner seam is formed from two curved faces, we put the factory corner for tiles.

Installation of the tile corner in the corner of the apron

For this purpose, on the back of the cropped tile with a toothed spatula with a layer of glue (completely), and we dress up a precised profile. Then the cut tile is placed in place. The profile for the tile so that it does not hang in the loose part, you can press with the help of painting tape.

Immediately make a reservation, the scheme of laying the tile here is not quite usual. I have already reminded about the deadlines. Therefore, the outer angle, in other conditions, it would be better to bring plaster with the help of a fixed vertically rail or perforated corner.

Setting corner

We are considering a more complex option, which, in the absence of good experience, I would not recommend that such an apron from tiles in the kitchen independently. Although, if you are all read carefully read, there should be no problems.

We have a tile number 10 and three tiles up. They are exhibited strictly vertically and 2 cm performs abroad. The protruding part of it with a narrow spatula with glue and start the external vertical profile in advance.

Press the perforated part into the glue and fix over with painting scotch. Remembering the figure, cut down the size of the tile No. 11 so that the cut side is pointing to the inner corner of the next wall. We put the tile and fix it and the painting scotch profile.

As described above, we post the first two tiles of the next wall. Everything! We have only plaster for today.

Stucco for lazy

Often an apron from tiles in the kitchen requires a coarse alignment of the vertical plane. Basically, the problem is solved quite simply: lighthouses are exhibited, and the surfaces with the plaster mortar are given the desired form.

Sometimes for various reasons, plaster works are impossible. The reasons are quite a lot - the surface is not subject to plastering (thin slate sheets), the size and geometry of the room do not allow to set the beacons, the owner does not want to reduce the already tiny room for 1-2 cm of the plastering layer and so on. Tile works initially imply straight corners and styling verticality.

How to be?

I admit honestly, I pulled up the vertically by increasing the thickness of the glue layer. But this is not a way out of the position, because under certain conditions, the delay of tiles with a layer of glue can begin. The second variant is the addition of a solution layer after each laid row - significantly lengthens the timing of the work.

The decision unexpectedly suggested by one of the clients to which the old master of the Soviet school laid down drywall when raising the layer! Gypsum glittering - technology known from Soviet times. I have already said that in this case the repair periods were limited, and we have two days ahead.

In addition, the ends of the chimney shaft have a constructive recess (most likely a pipe has passed there) to close it for one or two passages it is impossible, brick crumble, forming through holes.

We make an additional bowl on the surface of the mine, we throw the recess with gypsum plaster, carefully soil (again), the soil the back side of the cut-carbed sheet of the leaf of plasterboard and after drying, catch the tile glue.

The leaf of the drop is pressed to the surface and in terms of the level we achieve the vertical, slightly tapping along the entire plane with a rubber chiiyan. The distance between the level applied to the tile number 11 and the surface of the glued leaf of the hypot is 1.5 cm.

We attract a sheet on a plane, after 15-20 cm by self-drawing with dowels to the surface and tomorrow will continue to lay the tile. Well, this kind of such a kind has our kitchen at the end of the third day. At the end of the day, do not forget to view the stoved tile and correct the flaws until the glue has turned.

On the legitimate question of why we did not stick a sheet of plasterboard from the floor, it follows the "legal" answer: we would lose about 3 cm area. Furniture has already been ordered, and the struggle goes for millimeters!

Tomorrow we have to finish the "turnkey" laying. The day after tomorrow - putting the seams. Ending the masonry

Third day of work

The next business day we begin with a climbing of the laid tile on the apron of tiles in the kitchen. If empties are found, it is better to remove the tile, consider the adhesive layer and shift along the new one. The glue layer, in this case, removed from the tile or from the wall (if the preparation is carried out correctly, the adhesive layer should remain on the wall), the surface is determined, it is ground and the tile is put on the place with the prevention of the previous errors!

Attract a piece of drywall with self-draws to the wall. Self-tapping screws with a long 51 mm under a 6 mm dowel. Perforator or drill without hitting drywall, then turn on the blow and drill on the necessary depth. We make a "cartridge" (self-dowel), insert it into the hole and fix the screws! The head of the self-press should be slightly recessed in the drywall. Also we screw the screws around the perimeter and the entire plane. Plasterboard once again soil.

Display an internal angle as described above.

Next Wall

The next wall of special problems does not cause us: put the tile with pulling trim in the corner (the factory side goes to the tile, clipped - in the angle).

All rules for laying a tile - check the level of vertical and horizontal, planes in all directions - remain in force. Made everything according to the scheme, now stop!

Last wall, if we look at the layout scheme, starts from the window with one full vertical side, i.e. Floor and further go four vertical rows plus border.

According to the scheme, we see that the length of the wall is 86 cm. Those. We obtain 2 tiles of the whole plus 5-6 cm. Cropped piece. How do you like? I do not like. We make trimming in size, as in the first inner corner - 12 cm. For it there is a complete tile and for it a trimming and to the window slope, we adjoins the tile with a size of 32 cm.

There is a certain system in our laying. To simplify work, we start from the floor three trimted tiles of 32 cm vertical nearby. Follow the drawing, level vertical, horizontal and plane. We derive the upper side under the rotten horizontal line and finish the row.

Corner trimming also smeared glue from the back side and get into the profile. Watch the horizontal seams on both walls. If we did everything right, there should be no special problems. On the top row exhibit borders. Also watch the direction of drawing. All masonry is completed.

Important! During laying work, the tile, the adhesive layer under which grabbed, makes sense to wipe with a damp cloth. The seams should also be cleaned with a cross, thin screwdriver or something like that. If the tile has not been fixed on the solution, it is better to postpone this operation at a later time.

Preparation for grouting seams Apron

For the grout we will need:

• capacity under the grouting composition (usually it is a clean bucket or a bowl of 1-2 liters);
• rubber spatula, preferably softer, measuring 8-10 cm;
• a piece of cable (for the formation of seams);
• bucket and detergent (ordinary washing powder, detergent for the tile and other);
• sponge or set of rags.

Grouting seams Apron from tile

We begin with the fact that we wash the tile with warm water with a detergent. Cross, thin screwdriver, plastic or wooden wand Carefully clean the seams from glue residues, all seams and wipe them with a damp cloth.

In advance prepared capacity, we drag the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. The grout solution in no case should be liquid. Consistency of very thick sour cream. The performance of imported grout formulations in the solution stage is approximately 20-30 minutes. I remember this and we divorce the quantity that we can work out during this time!

For convenience in the work, we take a small carton or plywood, where we put a part of the grout. We apply a rubber spatula on the tile in the area of \u200b\u200bthe seams and the diagonal movements fill the seams. I advise you to work in gloves - you can in rubber.

Do not smear the grout over the entire tile. The remnants of the grouts are collected by a spatula and laid out on our cardboard or plywood. Having developed the diluted mass, take a slightly moistened rag and wipe the tile, removing the remnants of the grout.

We take a piece of electrical wire and stroke the seams, giving them a form. At the end of the grout, the tile wipes a damp cloth. We will wash it in 2-3 days.

Important! The stilt includes pigment. If you start missing, we did not have time to grab the grout, the pigment will be washed out, and the seams can change the color.

apron from tiles in the kitchen markup

apron from tiles in the kitchen circuit

Probably, not everyone knows what a kitchen apron is. This is a special wall cladding that protects against fat, dirt and splashes of water in the kitchen. If you do not do it, the walls will be almost impossible to tip out of contamination and fat.

Tile for apron is best to choose with a smooth surface, it will facilitate her wash in the future.

Therefore, those men who think this is a banal part of the interior or a simple whim of the housewives are very mistaken. Knowing how to put an apron in the kitchen, you can significantly save at the imminent subsequent repairs, because the main possible places of pollution will be perfectly protected from fat and dirt.

The most common manufacturer of the apron in the kitchen is a tile laying. The tile from which the tile is manufactured is a very popular and universal material. It is resistant to moisture, heat and dirt. In addition, this material fits perfectly into the overall interior of almost any room (naturally, mainly toilet, bathroom and kitchen). Knowing the basic concepts of laying a tile, a person can put apron in the kitchen without assistance.

How to choose a tile

Capital conditions for tile:

Types of ceramic tiles: from 1 to 5 - square; from 6 to 10 - rectangular; 11 and 12 - shaped corner; from 13 to 16 - shaped cornisa; From 17 to 20 - shaped plinth.

1. Appearance. In fact, the tile can be almost any shape and color. Of course, it is desirable to pick up pastel soft tones, and not catchy shades, as in the kitchen it is necessary to create a feeling of harmony and pacification.
2. The size. The size, as color, does not play such a big role, however, of course, with a larger tile, much less than the masonry. But despite this, it is not recommended to take a large-scale tile, as the smaller the size, the better the appearance. In addition, you can perform various interesting manipulations with it, such as mosaic or drawing. It is believed that the square tile with a side of the edge of 10 cm is the most convenient and practical to use.
3. When selecting tiles for kitchen apron, it is also necessary to take into account the surface of this tile itself. As mentioned earlier, the main function of the tile is the protection of the surface from dirt and divorces, so it is extremely important to choose a tile with the most smooth surface, as it will be easier to wash it.

You may be interested: Kitchen Finishing Materials

The stock of the material is a very important point for which most people do not pay attention. Given the marriage of some tiles, chips, incorrect masonry, trimming in hard-to-reach places and other unforeseen moments, it is necessary to take a material with a reserve of 10%.

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Material and tools for work

Next, you need to make sure that there is a sufficient number of necessary tools and materials in order to lay out the apron in the kitchen. All materials and tools are divided into primary and minor (without which in the most extreme case you can do).

The primary include:

1. Tile glue. It is recommended not to save on the glue and take quality, desirable imported glue that does not wash when the fluid appears on it. The price of herself justifies, since in the case of the acquisition of poor glue, it may be possible to redo absolutely all work.
2. Primer for base. The primer is necessary in order to provide high-quality and reliable gluing tiles with the surface of the wall.
3. Strip mixture for seams (waterproof). This mixture is needed in order for the seams that remain when the tile laying is the same in thickness and volume. In addition, a color grout is now produced, which can be selected in accordance with the interior and kitchen design.
4. Spatulas.
5. Graters for glue.
6. Roulette.
7. Roller glass cutter. We are necessary to ensure that in the case of needed it is easy to cut the tile on small components.

Of the minor materials may be needed:

• remote crossings;
• electric drill to knead a solution for primer;
• building level;
• sponges for washing off excess glue.

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Features of registration

To lay an apron in the kitchen, you must first decide on its design and design. To date, you can pick up various types for apron: multicolored, glossy, textured, monophonic, with an interesting pattern and inscriptions. All this many seems to ensure that every family can make their kitchen unique and unlike others. There are also such tiles, after the masonry of which is created 3D picture, which will look beautiful on the background of the kitchen.

You may be interested: Repairs in the kitchen: how to arrange the walls?

In addition, it is necessary to determine the size of the tile itself and the general laying height. It is best to make a pre-harvested sketch of the future apron, displaying and noting the necessary dimensions, details and subtleties associated with the design.

Those who are well-owning software can perform a designer project using special programs (Corel Draw, Photoshop, etc.). You can begin work on masonry apron in the kitchen after some details and subtleties are taken into account.

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Preparing surface for masonry

After all the necessary workpieces and materials are ready, you can proceed to direct work. First of all, you need to prepare the surface for future tile. This stage of work consists of several subparagraphs.

1. Clear the wall from the old finish, facing with the tools mentioned above.
2. Then with the help of chisels, ax or other tool, apply shallow notches on the brick surface. For 1 sq. M. It is necessary to apply about 200 small notches that will contribute to the best adhesion of glue with the wall.
3. And in conclusion you need 2 hours before the masonry of the tile to handle the wall penetrating the primer.

The next step on the way of preparing the wall to the subsequent laying is to apply markup. It is already necessary to apply all the sizes in advance for which the apron laying will be conducted.

First of all, it should be noted the upper and lower border of the apron. After that, you need to fix the bar at the bottom boundary (on the top the same). However, the top plank should be attached to several millimeters higher than the border with a margin on the seam. Lower plank is especially important. It is intended to ensure that the masonry does not move down and to clearly limit the marking boundaries.

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Billet glue

The next step will be a blank of the tile glue solution. It is performed according to the following scheme:

1. First of all, you need to know that the glue is prepared immediately before starting work, and not earlier.
2. Next, you need to take a clean container, preferably an old bucket without any residues in it and garbage. Then the required amount of water is poured into it and the dry mixture of glue is falling asleep. The amount of water and dry glue required for the workpiece can be found from the instructions on the package.
3. Get rid of lumps by careful stirring. To do this, you can use the drill, carrying a special nozzle for stirring into the hole. The glue must have a consistency of homogeneous mass.
4. It is about 10 minutes to give a solution, after which it is again stirred.

You may be interested: How to glue correctly vinyl wallpaper?

https: //syt/youtu.be/hafqg7g9b-i.

The resulting glue solution must be used for several hours after cooking, since, after this time, the glue will lose its properties.

An apron in the kitchen, laying of tiles, methods of laying tiles on apron are the themes of this article. You can easily do these works yourself if you make repair with your own hands. The apron in the kitchen is called the surface of the wall above desktops of kitchen furniture. The width of the apron is usually done 60-80 cm. Choose the width of the apron depending on the size of the planned tile and from their own requirements for convenience.

For example: If you are planning for apron with a tile of 25 × 33 cm for apron, then laying vertically with you, it will turn out 2 full rows and the width of the apron will be 66 cm, while laying horizontally 3 full rows and the width of the apron will be 75 cm.

To prepare the surface under the laying and directly laying the tile itself on the apron, you need to prepare the following tool.

Laying Tiles in the kitchen - Tool for work

• For work on laying tiles, prepare the following tool:
• Tool for dismantling work (scarpel, heavy hammer);
• A greasy tool for the preparation of walls (roller or wide brush, a wide spatula-2 pcs, a narrow spatula, if necessary, plastering the wall-rule is a long 1.0-1.2 meter).

Tool for laying the tile itself

• Spatula toothed. The width of the spatula is selected depending on the size of the planned tile. The width of the spatula for laying apron should be in the tile size or more tiles, but not as no less. Buying a toothed spatula It is necessary to choose the right size of the "teeth" of the spatula. They are also selected depending on the size of the tile. For tiles 10 × 10 cm. Select a spatula with "tooth" 6 × 6 mm. For large tiles: 8 × 8 mm.
• Spatula simple. Width 5 cm, 15 cm.
• Rubber spatula 1 cm, 2 cm, 5 cm.
• Rubber spatula wide (for grouting tiles)
• Building level, better two: long from 1.2 meters and short -40 cm.
• Electrode with duplex (with battle and without)
• Nozzle on a drill mixer, but you can do without it, mixing the tile glue manually is not so difficult, as it seems.
• Solid plastic scraper for cleaning seams between tiles.
• Platologist lever
• "Bulgarian" with a diamond circle for dry cutting.
• Fixtures for cutting holes in the tile (to choose from: Drill for tile, ballerina, diamond crown F56 mm, Hoven for metal complete with a special string-blade) Cutting holes will be needed if the apron will stand in the apron zone.
• Corner construction.
• Scissors for metal.
• Thread kapron to check the level.
• Sponge.

• Crossbars for seams between tiles (differ in thickness of 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm)

• Grout for tiles.

• Profiles - guides or wooden straight long rails with a thickness of 1.5-2 cm - this is the lower guide under the tile.
• Dowel nails (6 × 40 mm with a mushroom-shaped hat) or self-tapping screw (6 × 40-50 mm) with dowels (∅ 6 mm) - for fastening the guide;
• Tile herself for apron.

7. After the first tile glue (lay) the second. It is also carefully tested by horizontal and vertical levels. 8. There are crossbars between the tiles. Seam Checking the fingers and the drop should not be felt. 9. For the second tile, we put the third, etc.

Quality control laying

For additional control of the level of the tile surface, put a lighthouse tile. The lighthouse tile is glued to a small amount of glue and is accurately exhibited by level. Distance from the first, laid in the corner of the tile, to the tile - the lighthouse, select in accordance with the length of your long level or if there is, rules. The role of tile-beacon in the following. Glue the next tile, expose it in levels, and the rule check the plane of tiles in the row. What for? So that after the fifth tile, the wall did not become a semicircle.

10. Thus, lay out the entire lower row. After the first row lay out the second. In the corners of laying tiles set crosses. Do not forget to check the vertical laying of the tile rows. 11. After laying 5-6-7-8 tiles, it is necessary to clean the seams between the tiles from the adhesive solution. This is done so. Take out the cross, clean the seams with a rubber spatula and a damp sponge, then put the cross in the seam, as if a dagger in him.

Laying the tiles in the kitchen on a perpendicular wall. We produce in the same way, only necessarily check the construction corner perpendicularity of the angle of the apron.

Modern kitchen differs not only by a large number of devices that facilitate the work of the hostess - its main feature is a thoughtful interior. It is a combination of a number of factors that makes stay in this room enjoyable. Can a person preparing to spoil the mood because of the fat splashing on the wall? Yes, if this surface is not protected. Lower the tile all the kitchen is not everyone can afford, but make a apron completely forces to many.

What is apron? It is closed by various decorative material part of the working wall - between the table with a stove and cabinets. In this article we will tell you how to lay an apron from tiles in the kitchen.

Advantages of using tiles for apron

As already mentioned, various materials can be used for apron, but the tile is most practical.

1. It reliably protect the wall.
2. She has high strength.
3. This facing material is wear-resistant.
4. It is not afraid of the inherent moisture kitchen and fat getting.
5. Such an environmentally friendly coating allows you to create an attractive design.
6. From the tile you can easily remove almost any contamination.

Where to begin

If furniture is installed, then simplide the distance from the top of the table top to the bottom of the cabinets - so you can calculate the amount of tile required. Most often it happens within 60-80 cm, but above the slab, it may be necessary to lay a few more tiles.

Calculating the required number of tiles, you can go to the store. Since consumables and tools are required, check the list, if you have everything. We will need:

• tile;
• crosses (there are different sizes, but the most chassis is 2 mm);
• grinding for walls;
• glue for tile (at the rate of 6-7 kg per 1 m 2);
• waterproof grout for seams;
• grinding primer;
• rubber spatula (for work with grout);
• ordinary spatula;
• a spatula with a comb;
• roulette;
• construction level (bubble);
• electrode with a nozzle mixer;
• tiles (as needed);
• sD profile.

If the walls do not clean, then the tile will not have a reliable clutch with the wall and can fall off.

If this is not a new building, it will be necessary to clean the wall from the raids or paint. This will require some tools and devices applicable to a specific case. Consider in more detail the type of applied coating and the way to remove it.

• Wallpaper. To remove them, a bucket with warm water and a handful of washing powder will be required. For wallpaper, cuts are chaotic, and then the entire surface is abundantly wetted by the prepared fluid. After some time, the wallpaper is splashing, and they can be removed by a narrow spatula.
• Tile. It will take a perforator with a nozzle blade (or a hammer and chisel). The direction of impact should be sent under the tile, otherwise you can beat off the plaster. Be sure to need protection, since the tile shoes cries, and these small and sharp fragments are scattered in different directions.
• Paint. Depending on how firmly it holds, a different tool will be required. It may be a narrow spatula, scraper, construction hairdryer and even a perforator with a spatula.
• Raids. The easiest way to remove the spatula, scraping the applied layer. The work is dusty, so you can twist them with soapy water; stick newspapers and then tear off; Cleaner with a vacuum cleaner (not domestic).
• Plaster. The available plaster can be very low quality, as the builders "forgot" to put in it the desired amount of cement. Often it is possible to strengthen the fragment of the wall intended under the tile, applying a strengthening impregnation for plaster. If this option is not suitable, it is better to remove the layer of plaster from the whole wall to a solid foundation and shook out again.

Some owners decided to clear from the plaster only part of the wall on which the tile laying will be made, and then complete the decoration to the remaining coating. It should be borne in mind that the layer of plaster can be unequal in different places.

What to choose a tile

With a large tile work easier. Most often, 20 × 30 cm elements are used for the manufacture of apron, but this is not a rule. One like the little tile, the other is large, and the third is a mosaic. Someone likes a glossy tile, and someone matte. The listing can be continued for a very long time, but it is better to see the photo at the end of the article and choose the option you like.

Preparatory work and laying

It is best when the apron is done at the kitchen repair stage, but some owners decide to correct this error at the stage of operation of the room. For this reason, explaining how to lay out the tile, let's start with the preparatory work.

• Digit the line on the top of the table top and the bottom edge of the cabinets on the wall.
• You need to move away from the wall and remove the cabinets. They need to be made or at least move away so that they do not interfere with work, but in this case the furniture remaining in the kitchen needs to be covered (for example, a plastic film), protecting it from dust.
• Now the wall lines are clearly visible on the wall. Wire the distance from them to the floor and write down this data. If the furniture is new, then these actions are not needed. Note that if you do not have a special order, then in the acquired furniture, the table top is at an altitude of 86 cm, so it is better to start the tile laying by postponing the distance of 84 cm.
• So, at a given altitude, we fix the profile by checking the level of its horizontal location. If the apron is on the side wall, then there you need to immediately do a similar operation.
• With the help of a roulette, find the middle of the wall and apply the label in this place - it will be the first tile.
• Do not rush to immediately begin to stick tiles. First make fitting, laying out the prepared facing material on the profile. Having done this, you will see how to use the marked point - it will be in the middle of the tile or from the edge. It may happen that it is not enough for several millimeters to the edge of the wall, in which case it will be possible to take advantage of wider cross.

• Now you need to prepare the surface. If the wall is not downloaded yet, then do it.
• After some time, a thin layer of acquired glue should be applied to a small wall surface, then apply the comb on the tile and glue the wall. Thanks to such actions, the tile will not bounce off the surface.
• Check the position of the tile by the level, and until the glue grabbed, align it. In the same procedure, the rest of the tile.
• If the tile must be trimmed, then do it with a stoveture, as the grinder is very hard to perform smooth cut.
• After gluing every 8-10 pieces of a tile, you need to remove the flaps from it, wiping the surface with a wet sponge.
• Since the apron acts beyond the walls, then its edges can be sealing with putty.
• After a day, you can remove crossbars from the seams. If they are pulled out with difficulty, you can get the edge of the bike knitting needles and to improve them with this adaptation.

Between the tile seams, the remaining glue must be immediately removed and cleaned this space.

Not everyone immediately acquire the grout, as they want to pick it up to the tile. If you have not yet decided on color, you can cut off the strips of colored paper, and in turn applying to the seams, you will see what you most liked.

Grout is sold in a powder condition or in the form of a finished mixture located in small buckets.

It is exactly what you need is, in most cases, it is possible without any problems, but it is the process of grouting to many with difficulty. Let's start in order.

• Divide a small amount of grout in the container, from which it will be convenient to get a rubber spatula. Someone goes to another way, and first picks up a mixture with a narrow metal spatula, and then removes it with rubber.
• Fill out the composition of the slot between adjacent tiles, racing it with a rubber spatula.
• Now you will need a bucket with warm water and a sponge.

• After the grout is applied, the sponge squeezed can be sown. Essentially, the sponge is spuning the applied mass. If you put great efforts or wipe with a non-viable sponge, then most likely it will be removed the large layer of grouts and all work will have to be reinstalled.
• Pull remnants need to be removed from the tile. Divorces will remain, but it is quite normal - after the decorative mass is frozen, the tile can be easily laundered.
• At the last stage, the treated seams are impregnated with a special impregnation. It will protect the grout from penetrating moisture and fat.

Now it remains to clean up the kitchen and place the furniture.

First you need to hang cabinets, because then it will not do it.

Having laid out the kitchen apron with your own hands, you will not only save, but also get moral satisfaction.

Video

After watching this video, you will still better understand how to put an apron from the tile on your own in the kitchen, and smoothly and beautiful:

Photo

Russia, Moscow Oblast, Moscow +79041000555

Laying apron from tiles in the kitchen with their own hands

For reading required ~ 6 minutes

It is necessary to put a tile on the kitchen apron - we begin to wise. So always at beginners. It is necessary to organize your first test of the Tilenik as simple as possible, refusing the intricate mosaic, diagonal "harlequin" and other delights. It turns out to lay out two rows of 40 x 20 cm without flaws - and the newcomer is almost that the pros! In this article, let's talk about the rules of laying apron from tiles in the kitchen with their own hands.

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Features of the kitchen apron from tile

Glue under ceramics should lie evenly, without air cavities. Beautiful, but very fragile material is to be repeatedly washed, sometimes with effort. It is unlikely to fall out, but crawls - for sure.

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And the strip above the working surface should decorate, please. The process of cooking is labor cost, something should be cheerful. Choose beautiful tiles - half. They harmonize the top, the bottom headset, are a significant part of the interior. Would not be mistaken with the design!

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Ceramics - three thousand years or more. Designers insist pay attention to the following points:

• Without seams, it is impossible to lay 2 mm, 1 mm, but should be;
• It is necessary to start part of the tile down, under the level of the table;
• The edge of the upper row we turn under the top lockers;
• Above the cooking surface above, if the exhaust sleeve without facade linings - we put under the most exhaust hatch;
• In the corners of turns, on the turnings of the apron of small cuts do not lay;
• From the angle to the left / right - there must be the same pieces of tiles;
• 2/3 of the tile length - good cut, clapper - a balanced, smaller dimensions better exclude;
• The main thing is the most difficult - to combine the apron pattern with the construction of kitchen furniture.

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Determine the dimensions of the apron, the calculation of the material

Suppose the furniture structure is adjacent to two walls - long and short. One of the ends of the headset has a turn near the entrance door. That is, the layout of the letter "g".

Difficulties:

• start with a solid tile on the left and right;
• not to testify with small cuts inside the angle;
• accurately decide on the bottom edge of the calculations.

Selected seam 2 mm. So calculations must operate with a module 202 mm, and not at all tiled 200 mm. From the angular edge, the adjacent layer "takes" 18 mm (where 1 cm is the thickness of the adhesive layer, and 0.8 cm - the thickness of the tile itself). But from the overall length of masonry claims to his molding-ending. He is 15 mm.

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Blacks in the plastered wall strip for tiled masonry, given:

Distance from finishing floor to the edge of the bottom row of tiles	Distance from the surface of the table top to the middle seam	Distance from the lower edge of the lockers to the middle seam
850 – 60 = 800	850 + 20 + 330 = 1200
	where 850 is the height of the lower part of the headset	330 - visible part of the tile height, without leaving under the locker 50 (mm)
	20 - Width of the covering of the table and molding apron	70 - leaving for lockers
	330 - Half H Tile

It can be seen that the cabinet, together with a tabletop and an angular molding, will cover not 5 cm of the lower row of the tile, and all 7. The displacement of 2 cm is transferred (increasing) for the mark of the horizontal axis. The upper row of tiles of its lower edge will fall to the level (850 + 20) + 1.5 + 330 \u003d 1201.5 (mm). The band 661.5 is the visible part of the apron, neatly separated by one horizontal seam.

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Calculate the purchased number of tiles is easy - to the total S2 area it is necessary to add as much as required for cutting. Rezanny tiles are used only once, so it is not necessary to wise. On the economical use of pieces: the blasting of the brilliance, the invertation of the corners, the secondary use of the stingy will give out.

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It should be noted: The simplest example is shown, but for the most optimal altitude, the apron is about 660 mm, as well as for the standard height of the kitchen tables - 850 mm.

Needls of business Patterned, striped, panel, relief decorators do not offer. But if you load it from the first time - it is drawn to the coal, all your ideas, configuring vertical horizontal seams.

Preparation for work and necessary tools to lay out apron in the kitchen

Tile purchased, purchased the desired volume of dry tile glue. What tool will need?

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Here is a list:

• spatula 15 cm - for kneading and cleaning around,
• runner spatula - remove the ridges,
• metal Tyrka,
• grater-sponge
• malyary roller
• drip level
• drill + Mixer nozzle
• metal hacksaw + diamond string,
• drill "Ballerinka", diamond drill,
• two buckets
• polyfoam slices (drywall),
• laser level,
• crosses 1.5,
• joiner's pencil, feltaster.

At the point of the twelve domestic affairs, the master will exclaim: "such an expensive thing to buy?". Farming with exclamation: the instruction is not intended to make a master who knows the backup of the lower row to put out of the rule, profile, his dowels, attaching it, or even a stick of the pod. PROF is inventive. The novice master of the corners in the entire apartment will bring wallpaper, the baseboard will adjust. It turns out that the economy is the thing.

Instructions for laying

We once again check whether the angle adjacent to the slopes of door openings, windows. Matching verticals should be perfect. Refrigerator, buffet - immediately behind the tile apron? Then there it is impossible to put the tile: there will be an ugly gap without dense to the wall of the fit. We find accurate boundaries.

Preparation of the wall of the wall

• The old wallpaper was abrained with knives, richly darked, scrupleted the spatula.
• Oil paint was abolished, primed. The dried surface was plastered again. Sandbed.
• Concrete new buildings checked the measure on the subject of dawns from the strict vertical. Revealed errors by eliminating duralial beacons, each by plastering "blots", pushing to the wall vertically verified measure. Excess plaster on the sides consider. Plastelling again. We draw attention to a possible bloody surface. "Tummy" beacons are going around, as he and so put forward forward. On it, plaster will be the least.

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A smooth dry surface is primed at least two times.

Marking

Lower range - defining. For the initially selected type of tile of 400 x 200 mm, only one line is needed: level 820 from the floor. This is if the floor is laid. And if not? The situation when the apron is stacked before working with flooring, is largely true. Why dirt clean floor? In this case, from the concrete screed level 830 you need to raise. The tile floor has H \u003d 20 mm (laminate less - 15 mm). Add 20 - all 850 will turn out.

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We put a laser level for a tripod, weigh one single line - the edge of the lower row.

Preparation of adhesive solution

In the bucket pour some water (so that the sediment does not have a dry powder). We wear a respirator, plow the bag, fall asleep. For length L 3 m, H 0.8 m will need 5 kg of glue, that is, 1/5 part 25 kg of bag.

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Gradually add water from a plastic bottle to the formation of a thick casher. Powder spraying along the board boards scrape the spatula, return to the total mass. The resulting cleaner withstand 5 minutes, mix the mixer again. Glue is ready.

Tile laying technology

Now we interfere 10 minutes. Exactly so much is needed for laying a small apron of a two-row order. Slightly messenger - the glue will start to lose the plasticity, so pull it out, it will be difficult to pick it up. Hands take care! Textile gloves for this.

All glue threw on the wall of the wall under the apron, you can grab 2-3 cm wider. The left hand holds a metal cooler, the right-toothed spatula. Formed 80 cm ridges from top to bottom, closely picked up, so all over the site.

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Focusing on the laser outlined level, put only whole tiles, places of sockets, angular and extreme cuts. In the pocket - remote crossings, they are investing without departing.

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Tip: It is better to post on the pasted pieces of paint - and under the circles, and under the hacksaw. Flomaster is much more complicated.

Put

After checking the level of the tile by looking at dubious places on the subject of a suspended, you can rip out to the grout. The fugu is also poured into the water, stirred with a clean mixer. From the bucket, we get closed with a spa spatula, smoothed.

Wire output and sockets

Serve holes. Snorzda Podrothettos are stroke free to maneuver the opportunity. Cups of the submersionals are put after laying apron (not before!). Tile with paint attack, we note the top / bottom of the circle vertically, also horizontally. We put on plasterboard (thick foam fit), drill the ballerina (you can "crown" - diamond spraying). Well, when someone on drilling water from the bottle poured. Then the air is clean. Otherwise you need to wear a respirator. We try, glue, align the level. Only then after this, the cup of peavern is fixing the remnants of the glue, bringing the edges of the cup of the cup (flush).

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Similarly, drill holes for hooks, rails, free-leaving wires. Diamond drill is the best assistant. Considate the need for strict horizontality of each of the steam.

Video

Preparation may take a week. But putting ceramics will be easy. The main thing is not to be knocked out, to go clearly according to plan, from the main thing - to the little things. To smear each tile, as if a sandwich, customized trimming without laying the main front - it means to get stuck, and for a long time. Learn to do need right!