Water supply is a problem with which it often has to face the owners of cottages and country houses. As a rule, first need to be dried well and build a brick well. Moreover, this well can not only professional. Any can handle it! It is enough to explore all the nuances of the construction of a brick well with their own hands, and prepare all the necessary tools and materials.

Features of the device of a brick well

Almost all brick wells have a thickness of walls from 250 to 370 mm. It all depends on the depth of the well - than it is more, the greater the thickness of the walls.

For the construction of a brick well, the following tools are used:

1. Shovels with a short and long handle;
2. Rope with crochet;
3. Buckets for lifting the soil;
4. Pump;
5. Stairs;
6. Trenog and chain winch that is installed on it.

The bottom of the well must be horizontal. Make three round frames in advance. Their diameter should be from one meter and increase in increasing.

The lower frame is made of metal, and the other two are made of wood. The diameter of the main frame should be more auxiliary by 50 mm, the width should be equal to the laying dimensions.

From the outside of the frame, install a bed, which will repeat the shape of the frame.

The auxiliary frames are made of wood with a thickness of 80 mm.

In order for the brick well to be more durable, the frames are strengthened by inserting anchors in them (diameter - 15 mm). These anchors are mounted with nuts with washers. Then lower the mounted and aligned frames into the well and check the horizontal frame of the frame.

On the horizontally installed basic frame, you need to wear an intermediate frame, then bore them with nuts with washers. Please note that the anchors should stand strictly vertically.

The last stage is the fixation of the entire design with jerles, logs and boards.

Features of brick masonry

Laying a brick well requires the use of the following tools:

1. Exercise;
2. Trowel;
3. Hammer-korcha;
4. Corolnic;
5. Level, plumb;
6. Staples with a transverse bar.

Brick laying the well is performed from the ordinary building brick. In no case do not use silicate brick, as it is vulnerable before the high humidity of the well.

Prepare a mortar for m-150 cement and sand in a 1: 2 or 1: 3 ratio. Then add water and how to mix the solution to the desired consistency.

The first row of brimed with water bricks put on a layer of a solution with a thickness of 10 mm. The first and second rows put a twitch in the same way. Since the laying has a rounded shape, outside the remaining gap should lay a solution.

The brick well can be postponed with spoonful or tile rows. They need to put, alternating among themselves. The brick laying of the well is performed with the correct dressing of the seams, only so you can achieve its maximum strength.

To the well to be the right form, create a template. It will help to make high-quality laying easily even if you do not have the appropriate skills. The pattern should be attached to a row of bricks using simple hooks.

When the first row is posted, start laying the second, lifting the template and placing it opposite the next row of bricks.

When the laying has reached anchor, cut down the hole for it. The emptiness between the brick and the anchor tightly close the solution.

So that the well is stronger, lay a thin reinforced wire in its structure every 5 rows. Place it 30 mm from the edge of the masonry.

Masonry should not rest in the intermediate frame. First of all, insert anchors into it and fasten the next intermediate frame with the main one.

Be sure to check the frames strictly horizontally and vertically. Put verticality using anchors, and check with a plumb. Check the strength of the construction of the design, and then continue the masonry of the brick well with your own hands.

Lay the masonry for 50 mm before the intermediate frame. The gap between the masonry and frame lay the solution, you can add rubble or gravel to it. You can do it with the help of the board. Throw the solution thoroughly.

On this layer, press the frame, try to press it as close as possible. Do not forget to cut down in the bricks of the nest under the ends of the anchors, then the frame will fall tightly into the solution.

If the water in the well comes from the sides, do not forget to leave the windows for mounting the filters. They are made of porous concrete.

If the well is deep, install steel brackets for its maintenance. The depth of the pinch should be at least 120 mm per distance of 200 mm. To protect them from rust, apply two layers of waterproof paint.

Watch the masonry from the outside. The plaster is carried out using a solution in proportions 1: 1 or 1: 2. Next, dilute with water and stir up to the state of thick sour cream. Apply the plaster once, and then thoroughly align with the help of Harry. Use the solution for 60 minutes. Remember that the longer it will stand, the lower the strength.

To reduce friction between the soil and masonry, cover the distance between the main frame and the first additional ring. Mount the boards vertically so that they do not interfere with the masonry.

The inner walls of the well qualitatively plastered. Plaster is carried out in two stages. We need to put the plaster only after the first grip or a tier is made.

Prepare the solution in the same way as for plastering the outer wall of the masonry. Apply it with a layer of 5 mm. The stucco fills all uneven places and is well seized. Then apply the second layer, thicker. Align it as it should. In order for the work to be performed better, install the lighthouses. Make them out of the solution or from specially cooked wooden plates. Apply the solution and rub it, relying on the rails using the rule.

When the first capture plastering is over, start the ground withdrawal. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical structure from time to time.

Make a brick masonry of the second capture with its subsequent shocking.

When the well reached a waterproof layer, determine where water comes from. If it is suitable from the side walls, insert the filters into the openings. If the water comes from the bottom, close the holes with brick and cover the layer of plaster. If water interferes with work, reload it with the help of the application. During this time, the solution will grab, and will harden under water.

In order not to lower the well deeper into the ground, under the legs should be placed concrete tightening or a large stone plate. The edges of the tightness should perform outside 250 mm or more.

When the well is built, pour it off with a bottom of rubble or gravel with sand. So you will create an eco-friendly filter. The thickness of the layer must be at least 500 mm. Then remove all the garbage left after work, and disinfect water and well.

Before use, check it in the laboratory. If it is normal, use water from a well for cooking and drinking.

So that the shoe does not get into the well, make the lid and roof over it.

Possessing certain professional skills, you can build simple constructions from bricks. But often there are options for curvilinear masonry. And here you need to know some nuances of such work.

It may be necessary to decide how to lay a circle of bricks may be required in a wide variety of situations - from the construction of a well to the creation of complex architectural and design forms of the house. Consider in more detail the ways of circular laying and specific examples of the construction of round designs.

Where are round brick structures

Round structures made of bricks are often found quite.

Most common:

• Wells for water, or technical communications.
• Fully brick furnaces or closed bricks.
• Arches of various types.
• Erkers round or oval shape.

Therefore, questions often arise related to the technology of masonry structures of non-standard form, for example, how to put a facing brick on a curvilinear wall?

How to lay a brick circle?

There are many different ways of laying a brick in a circle. You can use the laying of elements to any of their faces.

But the following schemes are most often applied:

• Longitian - Brick stacked along the wall with spoons.
• Transverse - Masonry elements are located across the walls of the chips.
• Combined laying on a cry and edge.
• Masonry from halves of elements on a cry.
• Installation of crane under the necessary angle of bricks.

Round laying options: A - transverse, b - combined

The first row of bricks is usually laid out according to the drawn feature. How exactly put the brick of the next row - all elements must be focused on the inner boundaries of the first row.

Permanent control of the verticality and horizontal of masonry using a plunder and construction level is required. Wide outer seams are filled with a mixture of cement-sandy solution and rubble.

Brick shutting for masonry

Consideration of the issue, how to lay out a circle of bricks, you can solve the way of shutting up of each element of the masonry. To do this, first of all it is necessary to determine the amount of whole bricks that will be required for a full circle.

• The circle is drawn by the size of which will be the outer edge of the masonry.
• At a distance of 25 cm from it inside it is necessary to describe another circle.
• We measure the length of the outer circle and divide it by 12 cm. It will be the number of bricks that you want to put without a solution.
• The length of the internal circle must be divided into the resulting amount of bricks - it will be a narrow part of the element.

Thus, it is easy to understand how many centimeters should be silened by each brick. The processing of elements can be made unilateral or double-sided. For this, one brick is clotted to the desired size and the template is made according to it.

According to this template, you can process all other elements. But since the solution will still be laid between the bricks, then the amount can be reduced.

Construction of round stoves

Consider more detaching a circle laying on the end of the stove.

• The foundation for such a construction can be made round or square - it does not matter much. On the base surface, the circle of 106 cm with a diameter is drawn.
• The base is stacked by the base, which should perform above the floor level. The first row of masonry is performed by split from the halves of bricks mounted on the dust. The second row is stacked from integer elements that are shoodled at a certain angle from one or two sides.
• The laying of the furnace itself begins with the third row. It is necessary to draw a circle with a diameter in the basement, which will be less than the size of the future housing of 3-4 mm. This series is performed similarly to the first.
• The outer part of the furnace is iron rings with a diameter of 100 cm. They are installed on the base so that there is no less than 2 cm around.
• The first ring dresses on the third row of masonry. The gap between the brick and the ring is filled with a solution.
• Further laying of elements is made inside the metal casing. Bricks are exhibited standing, or from halves. Inner masonry is carried out on a dust from the integer elements. Near the rings is a bandage.

Important! It is necessary to constantly monitor that the angles of the overlying elements will exactly coincide with the surface of the lower row. You also need a periodic check of masonry using a plumb and construction level.

For round structures, you need to purchase the door of the curved shape, as ordinary rectangular products will play the edge of the masonry. For their installation in the rings, holes are cut in advance. Such a furnace can work on any form of solid fuel, with the exception of peat.

But sometimes there is no need to build a completely brick oven. The stores present a wide variety of finished furnaces of various purposes. In this case, it is often necessary only to resolve the question, how to put the cast-iron furnace brick, if it is made of a round form?

Round cast iron furnace lined with brick - Photo

The main nuances here are:

• The presence of a gap between the furnace of the furnace and the facing layer.
• From the bottom it is necessary to provide holes for the receipt of cold air.
• At the top you want to make openings to exit warm streams.

Brick facing capable of keeping warm long. Therefore, its use for cast iron furnaces is quite common.

Erecting technical wells

The need for technical underground structures occurs quite often.

They can be destroyed for:

• Sewer communications;
• Communication equipment;
• Placement column for water;
• Equipment for pools.

Such structures are usually running round. Moreover, the option of bricks can be easily made with your own hands. Consider an example, how to lay a brick ring to get a technical well.

In a private house, it is most often laid out small designs. Usually they have a depth of up to 3 meters at a diameter of up to 1.5 m. The price of such a building will be significantly lower than the acquisition and installation of concrete rings.

Instructions for the construction:

• First of all, you need to dig the pita. In size, it must be a little more alleged well.
• The bottom will thoroughly tram, falling asleep by sand to a height of 5 cm.
• The sand is shedding with water and the crushed stone is poured on top. This is a pillow under a concrete base.
• A concrete solution is poured with a thickness of at least 10 cm. For greater strength, it can be reinforced by a masonry grid.

Tip: For a round design, it is advisable to try to perform the base of the same form. You can use ready-made reinforced concrete circles.

• Next, the center of the well is determined. According to the required size, the circumference of the future design is delineated.
• The masonry method is selected. The best option for underground structures is the transverse laying of the brick. The main thing is that the horizontal seams of each row overlap the elements of the following.

• Every four or five rows requires an increase in the walls with reinforcement.
• For later communications, it is necessary to provide the necessary holes in advance.
• To ensure safe descent to a well for its service, metal brackets are deployed into the wall in the form of a staircase.

The part of the construction is usually plastered over the Earth. If there is a need, then the bottom and wall structures are additionally waterproof.

Device arched structures

Circular brickwork is widely used in arched structures. They will make an original and unique house. Most often, window and doorways are designed in this way both inside the building and outside. Arches options are very diverse.

The most common can be called semicircular and inaccurate options.

Instructions for arched construction:

• The type of arch is selected and its dimensions are calculated.
• All this must be issued in the drawing, according to which the template is manufactured.
• The template is mounted on the place of the arch of the arch.
• Brickwork is made on the solution.

After completing the work, the pattern is removed and, the arch is separated.

• The masonry of the brick begin with the laid out of the supporting elements - heaters, on both sides of the opening.
• Then, on each side, the following elements are stacked towards the center.
• The latter is established central, castle brick.
• The seams between the elements are carefully filled with a solution.

All arch is preferably postponed at a time. The design of the template can be removed 2-3 hours after the end of the masonry work.

In order to beautifully and gently lay out a brick structure of a round form, it is necessary to strictly observe its construction technology. More information on this topic can be found from the video in this article: "How to lay a circle of brick yourself?"

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Since its appearance, several thousand years ago, and until today, the brick remains one of the most important building materials, along with concrete and wood. From the brick, a huge number of houses, cottages, sheds, garages, baths, economic and public structures, etc. and even now, despite all modern construction technologies, a person who can quickly and properly put the brick is very appreciated. So why don't you join the masonry skill? Knowing , how to put a brick, you will get the opportunity to independently build various residential and economic buildings from this material on its site.

Brick is an artificial stone block of the correct shape used to build bearing walls and partitions, as well as for cladding during the construction of various residential, public and economic buildings.

It is manufactured in the form of a parallelepiped, the faces of which have its own names.

1. The biggest area of \u200b\u200bthe face, which, as a rule, is parallel to the base of the masonry, is called labor.
2. Long side face, the second in the area is called spoon or spoon.
3. A short side face, the smallest area is called again or bricks.

The faces of the usual brick: 1 - bed, 2 - spoons, 3 - stick

Bricks are classified according to the following parameters:

• manufacturing material;
• sizes and shape;
• structure;
• scope of application.

Briefly consider them all. According to the material of the manufacture of bricks can be the following types.

1. Ceramic bricksAlso known as red - one of the most common. Made from high quality clay and with a small content of impurities. The billets of ceramic brick are formed, dried and then burned in the furnace at a temperature of + 1000 ° C. The manufacturing process is long and time consuming, therefore, there is a similar building material relatively expensive. But at the same time the red brick is durable and durable.

   

2. Clinker bricks - as well as ceramic, they are made of good clay, but their firing occurs at a higher temperature, component + 1200 ° C. As a rule, it has a darker shade and the best indicators of strength and frost resistance among analogs. Also of all bricks clinker has the lowest water absorption indicators - from 1 to 6% of the total mass.

   

3. Silicate bricks - Move from a mixture of sand and a small amount of lime. In contrast to ceramic, they are not burned, but pass through the autoclave, where the temperature is about + 200 ° C and high pressure. Cheap and very popular material for the construction of household buildings. But it is less durable than ceramic brick, and is more inclined to absorb moisture.

   

4. Hypersed brick- Building material made from a mixture of rocks and a small amount of Portland cement, which are undergoing the formation and pressing under very high pressure.

   

5. Matched brick- As a rule, self-made building materials, which is clay blocks, where a straw or its analogue is used as a filler.

The size of bricks is determined by government standards. In accordance with them, this building material has basic dimensions called "normal format", from which all other options are repelled.

Table. The main sizes of bricks.

Important! It is worth noting that when constructing brickwork, incomplete parts of bricks are very often used. This is half, one quarter and three quarters. Kirk, circular saw, Bulgarian or special machine applied to create them.

As for the shape of the brick, then, in addition to the standard rectangular, there are many more options that are used for decorative purposes or creating structures of complex forms. With these blocks, which received the name of the shaped, you can find in the image below.

By their structure, bricks are divided into full-scale and hollow. In the first embodiment, the blocks do not have any specially made holes, pores and emptiness are obtained due to the features of manufacturing technology. Full-time bricks are used to build bearing walls and other structures experiencing significant loads - they are stronger, but at the same time worse in their thermal insulation qualities.

Hollow bricks have rectangular or round holes in their structure in bed. The laying of such material due to such emptiness filled with air, has the best thermal insulation properties, but at the same time not so durable.

In its field of application, the material is divided into the following categories.

1. BuildingAlso known as an ordinary brick - used to build walls and partitions, which are subsequently subjected to finishing with other materials. Often it has a non-ideal form and appearance, but at the same time cheaper.
2. Facing, or facial brick - can also be used to build bearing walls, partitions, basements and other structures, but it has the best appearance, therefore it can not be covered with another finish and at the same time get a beautiful and pleasant building.
3. Refractory - It is used in the arrangement of furnaces, chimneys and other structures that can be in contact with fire sources or elevated temperatures.
4. Decorative Brick is used exclusively for the external or internal finish of the facades. Often has a special texture or painting.

Important! Separately, it is worth highlighting a used brick - this is the cheapest version of this building material, but its strength qualities and appearance are very far from the ideal.

Price on brick

Types of brickwork, dressing and batch boxes

Without knowledge of major terms, denoting elements of masonry, understand various instructions and correctly erect brick walls not easy. Therefore, you will get acquainted with the basic designations presented in the image below.

Veters- Bricks stacked on the facial (facade) and the inner (component surface of the residential premises) of the wall. Bricks lying between the inner and external vests in a row are called towel.

In accordance with the appearance of the facade, the ranks in the masonry can be tychkov or spoon. In the first case, bricks go on the front side of the wall of the tile. And, accordingly, if spoons are visible on the facade, then such a number is called spoonful.

Seam formed by a solution between rows of brick masonry is called horizontal. And if the solution is between adjacent bricks in a row, then such a seam is called vertical. He can be either longitudinalor transverse. In the first case, the vertical seam is located along the direction of the wall, in the second - across it. Their overlaps in the rows of brick masonry are called dressing.

The performance of strong and durable buildings from this material is possible only under the observance of the three basic rules.

1. In brickwork, it is necessary to evenly distribute the load on compression and minimize them to bend. For this plane of all rows must be parallel to each other. As a result, an uneven load distribution on one of the corners or one side of the masonry is excluded.
2. The vertical seams located along and across the direction of the brick masonry should be located at an angle of 90 ° relative to the plane of the series and mutually perpendicular to each other.
3. To ensure a uniform load distribution and exclusion of bending moments, each brick of the upper row should be relying at least two bricks in the lower.

With the classification of brickworks in the thickness of the wall can be found below.

Important! Separately, it is worth saying that there is another type of masonry - a quarter of a brick. In this case, the plane of the rows does not pass on the bed of blocks, but on a spoon. The thickness of such a masonry is 65 mm, strength and thermal insulation are low, because the scheme is suitable only for thin partitions inside the house.

As mentioned above, to create a strong and reliable masonry, its vertical seams need to overlap. To solve this problem, various laying schemes are used, called dressing seams. Each of them has a certain level of complexity, as well as their advantages and disadvantages.

Most often, the following seam dressing systems use:

• single row, also known as chain;
• multi-row;
• and subspecies of the multi-row - three-row Dressing system.

Principle single row dressing seamsit is the alternation of spoonful and tonge rows of brickwork through one. At the same time, you still need to follow some rules.

1. The initial and final rows of masonry must be necessarily tiley.
2. Longitudinal vertical seams overlap on ½ bricks.
3. The transverse vertical seams overlap to the ¼ brick.

Single-row seam dressing system makes it possible to create a very strong and reliable masonry with uniform load distribution and minimization of bending moments. But at the same time such a way of laying bricks is very laborious. In addition, the Mason has the need to produce a large number of incomplete blocks, which increases the consumption of the material due to unnecessary quadrapeters or marriage, which has been unsuccessful.

From the point of view of saving material and time is preferable multi-row suturing system. In it, one tile row alternates with 5-6 spoon. At the same time there are features that require compliance.

1. As for the single-row dressing, the initial and final rods of the masonry must be tiley.
2. The next spoon row must overlap the vertical transverse seams of the previous row of the same type on ½ brick.
3. Vertical longitudinal seams in spoonful rows are usually not bandaged.
4. The following in the masonry of the tiley rows must overlap the vertical transverse seams of the previous spoonful row on the ¼ brick.

As mentioned above, a similar system is economical and easier, but at the same time not so durable. As for the three-row dressing, this is a special case of a multi-row - when there are three spoonful between the two taches.

In brickwork, not only the wall thicknesses and the block layout scheme, but also the types of seams from the building solution differ. Consider the main types of their varieties.

1. VNC- The seam boundaries coincide with the plane of the walls. The result is a smooth and smooth brickwork.
2. Pustose- The seam boundaries do not reach the plane of the walls, there are small gaps between bricks. As a rule, this type is used if the masonry will be placed. In the process, this gap will enter the finishing material and, thus, it will be well held on the wall.
3. Convex and concave semicircular and two-chamber seams - In the profile, the solution on the wall boundary has a form of a semicircle or a triangle, outgoing or, on the contrary, which is part of the laying plane. Used in decorative purposes.

Tools and Devices for Brick Masonry

Performing any construction work is impossible without the use of tools. Consider everything that you may need for proper brickwork.

- a metal blade of a triangular shape with a curved handle. The most important tool for laying bricks is needed to apply a solution on a wall or a separate unit for mixing or cutting off excess.

Hammer-Kirk - Used to split bricks on halves and quarters. The acute side is used for small or normal in size blocks, stupid - for those larger. Instead of the hammer-kirk, you can also use a circular saw or a grinder.

- With it, it is based on the seams in the brickwork and giving them the necessary form.

Kapron cord For the arrangement of the wharfs, with the help of which the correct position of the new row of bricks is controlled.

Order - Metal corner, fixed at the corners of the house using clamps-clamps. It contains holes or other fasteners, allowing you to quickly move the cord of the moorings exactly to the height of one row of brickwork (taking into account the thickness of the seam). Application of the order significantly accelerates and facilitates the work of the Mason.

For stirring cement mortar. Also for its preparation and carrying to the point of laying bricks you will need buckets, trough and other tanks. When working with a large amount of solution, it makes sense to buy or rent a concrete mixer.

To control the position of the corners, you need carpenter Galnik. Also for measuring distances and lengths need a roulette. And to prostate marks - pencil.

In the work of the bricklayer, the control of how much exactly the horizontal and vertical is one of the bricks or a whole series. Use for these purposes construction and Water Levels.

Prices for construction levels

Building levels

For laying upper rows of bricks, you must use scaffolding or Scaffolding. We are better to carry construction materials with a wheelbarrow.

Prices for scaffolding

Scaffolding

Also during the construction, it is better to wear separate work clothes and apply protective equipment - glasses and gloves.

Important! Separately, it is worth saying about the templates for a mason. These are simple plastic devices, allowing even an inexperienced person to apply perfectly smooth layers of solution to bed and vertical surfaces of bricks.

Slaving solution for brickwork

To connect bricks to a monolithic and strong wall, you will need cement mortar. And in this section of the articles you will learn how to cook it.

Step 1. Prepare all the necessary components - M400 grade cement, good sand, small amount of water and plasticizer. The latter is necessary to create an elastic, high-quality mixture, which will be easily located on the brick and smoothen. As a plasticizer, use either specially designed additives or the usual detergent.

Step 2. Turn on the concrete mixer, pour three quarters of the water bucket there, then add 30-50 ml of detergent. Wait until the mixture of two liquids is perfectly mixed and foam.

Step 3. Put two sand buckets. Also wait until all components in the concrete mixer turn into a mixture.

Step 4. As soon as sand with liquid is mixed - add two more sand buckets. Repeat the same actions that on the previous operation.

Step 5. Add one bucket of dry cement M400 into the concrete mixer. Turn the pear slightly down, about 5-10 °.

Step 6. Stir the components exactly until the mixture becomes a little wet. After that, gradually tosses into the concrete mixer of water. Do not overdo it with water, otherwise you will have to add dry components and plasticizer again, while the correct proportions will endure it will be difficult.

Step 7. As soon as the mixture is completely mixed and starts to dig from the walls of concrete mixers, pour it into a pre-prepared trough or any other capacity of the appropriate volume.

Step 8. Stir the mixture with a shovel, check how elastic and whether its consistency is suitable for use in brickwork.

Step 9. Prepare a mixture for bonding bricks, do not forget to clean the stopped concrete mixer from the residual residues.

Prices for popular models of concrete mixers

Concrete mixers

How to put a brick - step by step instructions

Now proceed to the description of how to put the brick. For this, several step-by-step instructions have been created, each of which is submitted to a separate subsection.

Important! Before building construction, it is advisable to "practice" to perform brickwork and separate items, such as corners and pillars. It will give you the basic magazine skills and save on some mistakes in the process of erection of your own home, barn, garage or any other building.

Dry layout on the base

Work begins with the layout of the first row of the brick "dry." It is necessary for counting how many blocks will be needed in this case, and for approximate representation of how to make the right masonry.

Step 1. Unpack bricks and check instances from different pallets. Due to some features of the raw materials and the technological process, they may differ from each other by shade or sizes. Remit these features in advance. When laying walls and other structures it is desirable to use a brick from one party, one shade.

Step 2. On the basement or foundation, spread and secure the runneroid - it is necessary for waterproofing. Without it, the brick will "pull the water", which will not be the best way to affect his durability. Then lay out the first row of blocks without a solution and careful fit. Prepare a pin or a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm - it corresponds to the thickness of the solution layer between bricks.

Laying the first row of bricks on top of the runner

Step 3. Now lay the bricks on the edge of the base, thoroughly aligning them and observing the desired gap using the pin of the corresponding diameter. In this way, a dry layout is made throughout the perimeter of the built-up construction - pay special attention to the corners.

Step 4. Perform measurements of length from one corner to the other, write down the results. Also perform measurements diagonally - whether all the digits of the project are fully respected.

Step 5. In the corners, apply a pencil mark on the base in those places where the edges of bricks will be located. If you wish and the presence of time, the same tags can be put along the entire length of the walls - this will require additional forces now, but at the same time will greatly facilitate work in the future.

Laying of the first row

One of the most responsible stages in the laying of bricks - work with the first next. From how correctly it will be posted, the quality of the subsequent masonry and the whole structure as a whole is dependent. Consider this and do this work with as much as possible accuracy.

Step 1. By labels applied at the dry layout stage, lay out the first bricks on the corners of the base. In this case, the reinforcing mesh from the wire was laid on top of the runneroid.

Step 2. Putting the angular bricks of one of the walls on the solution, carefully tight them in the height of the handle of the trunk or very light and cautious blows of the stupid part of the hammer-kirk. At the same time, be sure to use the water level, and the construction - it is necessary to make sure that the blocks on two edges of the walls are located at the same height.

Step 3. On the same principle, lay out bricks of the first row at all corners of the future building.

Step 4. Tension between the corner bricks the pitch-jetty, which will be aligned horizontally and vertically all other blocks of the first row. The cord is fixed either with the help of the corners (as in the photo below), or on the order. Note that the moor thread should not be saved and that when laying "to give" her towards one of the faces of the brick is undesirable.

Step 5. Let's start laying out other bricks of the first row. Scroll to the basement the solution, scatter up to a height of about 1.5 cm, put the brick, align it horizontally and vertically, using a pitch-moor. If you work for the first time a bricklayer, check the construction level. It is allowed to customize the brick with light tapping knob of the Kelma or the stupid end of the hammer-kirk. After that, the thickness of the horizontal seam should be approximately 8-10 mm, and the vertical - 8 mm. Excess the solution remove the cells.

Step 6. According to the same principles, which are indicated above, laying all the bricks of the first row.

Step 7. After laying the last brick in the first row, check again, whether the height of all blocks coincides, whether there is some kind of fuel or back on the base. If everything is in order - proceed to layout the angles of the second row, move the moorings and to further construction work.

Laying brick principle and letters

After laying out the first row, it is necessary to proceed to the creation of the subsequent layers of brickwork. At the same time, the actions are made according to a similar algorithm - angles are created, the thread is stretched, the blocks are stacked. In this subsection, we will focus on the last operation. There are two main brickwork technique techniques - if you use. Consider successively both. Let's start with the styling of brick using the method.

Step 1. In the upper ribs of the laid out of the series, pull the moolers. It is advisable to do it with an external, and from the inside. Then, to bed of the previous row of bricks, pour cement mortar.

Step 2. Warm the solution on the surface of the previous row of brick masonry. Its thickness should be slightly larger than the thickness of the horizontal seam planned. Also ensure that the solution completely filled the vertical longitudinal and transverse joints on the previous row of brickwork.

Step 3. Take the brick, a little tilt it down a spoon or a ton (depending on how you need to put it) and, immersing it in the solution, move so that the inclised facelight shake the layer of the mixture. As a result, you simultaneously turn out horizontal and vertical seams.

Step 4. By the same, the principle is laying the rest of the bricks. If they are height from the border set by the pitch-mooring, tighten them with light tapping trumps or hammer. Excess the solution Outside Cut the cylma outside, partially fill the vertical seams where the mixtures are not enough.

Now consider laying bricks.

Step 1. As in the previous instruction, pull the pitch-pitch on the upper ribs of the river, and lay out the bed of the lower layer of bricks and dissolve the solution.

Step 2. Then turn the side by the side and the neat movement over the solution submitting it part to the vertical face of the brick, next to which you are going to lay a new one. As a result, you should get a smooth side seam.

Step 3. Holding the cell solution on a vertical face, put the brick and to the desired place and press it to bed of the previous row and to a spoon (or the tonch, depending on the type of masonry) of the adjacent unit. Gently pull the trowel.

Step 4. On the same principle, run the next brick laying. Customize them in height with light beats of the Cologma handle, if necessary.

Step 5. Surplus the solution, leaked from horizontal and vertical seams, cut one movement of the brand. The mixture can be sent to the bucket to its main part or lay out on top (in the case when the butcher or spoons of two bricks are not filled with a solution).

Step 6. Repeating previous steps, lay out all other bricks in a row.

Cement prices and Basics of mixtures

Cement and Basics of Mixtures

Video - Brickwork for beginner bricklayers

Video - Bugs of beginner bricklayers in brickwork

How to cut and prick brick

When working with brick masonry, especially when using sophisticated suture dressing schemes, there is a need for a large number of incomplete blocks of bricks - halves, quadrapeters, etc. It is necessary to obtain their material to be obtained either to split the bladder, or squeeze the grinder (or circular saw). In this section, you will learn how to perform it. Let's start with brick splitting.

Step 1. Inspect the brick before split it. Pay special attention to the presence and depth of cracks. If they are and lie in the wrong place where you plan to split - it is better to take another brick, since when working with such an instance, there is a risk of marriage.

Step 2. Right take the brick - the middle of the hand should be in the place where the split line is planned, and hold both future halves with your fingers. Otherwise, one of the pieces of building materials when you hit the pickaxe can fly away and fall to your foot or split to the state of marriage.

Step 3. A sharp face of the Kirk scratch on the brick an exemplary split line.

Step 4. Apply a strong strong and quick blow along this line. The brick must embarcate on the parts of the size you need after it. If the work is carried out with large blocks - do some blows or use not pointed, but a blunt part of the tool.

Step 5. After impact, divide the brick on the parts you need and set aside to the storage place. If necessary, they can be slightly disconnected by cutting in a cut to remove unnecessary.

Now consider sawing the brick brick. With this tool, you get excellent and even cuts of the blocks, but it should be done much more careful and compliant with the safety of safety.

Step 1. Lay a brick on a flat base. It is desirable that she had a raika or other devices for fixing building materials.

Step 2. Stand so that neither legs nor other parts of your body are on the cut line. You must be "aside" from her. Thus, minimizes the risk of injury due to the sharp movement of the grinder "for itself".

Important! Also note that you should not be for you or before you should be - finding closely foreign people is a security infringement.

Step 3. Turn on the grinder and wait until its disc will be promoted. Then start the sawing process. In this case, the master got up so that the disk spinning "from himself" - dust, obtained during operation, goes to the side, and not on it.

After the sawing is completed, carefully lift the grinder up, turn it off and set aside. The resulting halves (or 1/4 and 3/4 of the brick) transfer to a separate pallet or other storage location.

This method is used not only for facing the facade walls of different buildings, in this way the brick fences, arbors and mangals are erected, decorative architectural elements. What is the "Bavarian Laying Brick"? Read about it in

Wells are a multifunctional structure. There are different types of their species, making material. What does they represent themselves? What is the technology of masonry of wells from bricks, read in the article.

Types of wells

These facilities are different, which depends on many factors: appointment, soil composition and much more.

There are the following types of wells:

• Key - The most economical and simple. They are descending and ascending, which depends on the presence of keys.
• Shaft wells. To create them, you must unscrew the mine 10-20 meters deep. The shape of such wells is different: round, rectangular, square.
• Pipe wells. They are made of round shape resembling a pipe. These are durable and hygienic structures.

Laying of wells is performed from various materials. It may be brick, stone, concrete, reinforced concrete, wood.

Shaft wells

These structures, regardless of the type, have the same design - the pulp of the elongated shape, the depth of which is 5-15 meters. The walls of such a well are strengthened, the head board is neatly decorated. The advantages of a mine type facilities are that there are constant access to drinking water, which is not only persisted here, but also replenished with a natural way. Fully dragged such a well extremely rarely.

Brick shaft

Different types of shaft wells differ little from each other on their device. The difference between the stone and brick well, for example, is small. The main difference is in the laying of bricks, where a specific scheme applies. In order for the walls of the well to be reliable, the wiring width should be one - a half of the brick. The round shape of the mine is achieved through the use of a stabilizing profile.

If the brick or stone mine does not strengthen the frame forming the skeleton of the entire well structure, it will very soon begin to crumble. For the manufacture of the support frame, metal profile, reinforcement or waterproof wood is used.

Pipe player

Laying a wrench of a brick begins with the preparation of the RAM. Their diameter should be equal to the diameter of the future well. The main is the bottom frame. For its manufacture, metal, reinforced concrete, or since it should be solid. The frame has a thickness of 10 centimeters. Width is equal to the thickness of the masonry. The size of the outer diameter by 5-6 centimeters exceeds the outer diameter of the intermediate frames.

The outer edge of the frame around the entire perimeter below has a knife of steel. Wooden is both the top, and the intermediate frame. Between themselves, they are fastened with nails. The thickness of these frames is 8 centimeters, and the width is the same or slightly less than the thickness of the masonry.

On the perimeter, the frames must be drilled in each other, between which will be the same distance. They are needed in order to insert anchors in them. The lower frame has six anchors that are tightly fixed with nut and washer. After checking the level in the removal, the finished frame is descended horizontally, and the intermediate is put on with it with nuts and washers. So that the design is stronger, it is necessary to strengthen it on top of the logs.

Laying brick wells

This process is performed in one - a half of the brick. The ranks can only be tiley or alternate with spoonful. Be sure to, regardless of the type of masonry, the first two rows are tiley. To maintain the right round form, experts recommend using templates that are performed in the form of a rings with two halves bonded by wedges.

Laying of the wells do not cause difficulties, if you do everything right. At first, the cement mortar is 1-1.5 centimeter thick superimposed on the main frame and smoothes. The bricks of the first row are put on it, then the second and so on. If the padding of the wells is round, there will be gaps between bricks outside. They need to fill in a broken brick, mixed with mortar.

During the masonry should not forget about the holes for anchors. They are done in bricks. Clauses must be sealed with cement mortar. In order to get a solid brickwork, along the entire length of each fourth row, you should pave a thin wire in two layers. When the distance between the intermediate frame and the upper nearby becomes 5-6 centimeters, the masonry must be suspended, the anchor is on the frame, and the free space is filled with a solution. But gravel or crushed stone is added to it in proportion of 1: 3. The solution must be tamped. For this, a wooden board is suitable, the width of which coincides with the distance between the frame and bricks.

When water entered the well through the walls, there are leftings for windows for windows of 25x50 centimeters. They will establish filters for water purification. Armature is superimposed on the brick masonry of the upper row and is filled with a solution of cement with a thickness of 20-25 centimeters.

Plastering

After the masonry of the wells from the brick is finished with their own hands, proceed to plastering their inner and external walls. To facilitate this operation, you need to stockday beacon, which are smooth smooth racks. For this work, it is enough for six pieces. They are installed at the same distance in those places where anchor is attached.

The lighthouse from the lighthouse is separated by a wooden semicircle called Malka. Its radius is half the diameter of the inside of the well. Malka moves along the beacons from top to bottom and vice versa, thereby equalizes the solution that previously applied to the wall.

Immediately shook the walls at all of their height is impossible, it is made by strips. Every time the lighthouses need to be removed, and the gaps are chipped with a solution. In order not to clogged the bottom of the falling solution, it is covered with boards.

Plastering the inner and outer surface of the wall of the well two stages. First, the liquid solution is sprinkled to fill all the gaps in the brick masonry, and then more thick.

After the first laying lane was plastered, you need to continue the sample of the soil and the laying of the second strip. So you should alternate the work until the well is completely died to the desired depth, which is fixed by plates from concrete, plated under the knives of the main frame. Plates should go beyond the beads of the well of about half meter. After the end of all works, the bottom of the well need to clean well and fall asleep with rubble, gravel or sand.

Sewer well

Laying of wells of this species is carried out using clay brick that does not transmit water. For the absence of such a red. The masonry is carried out in Polkirpich. Sewer wells are round, rectangular or square shape. It will take a lot of bricks, cement, sand, bitumen, bold clay, rubble, and a stove for overlapping and a pipe for ventilation.

But you first need to choose a place where the keys will be made of bricks. Instructions with the safety requirements of the installation and operation of sewage wells must be fulfilled. The arrangement of such structures is carried out at a distance of 30 meters from the source of drinking water.

If the well is designed to accumulate waste, it is placed on the summer site so that the machine can drive up the machine for pumping unclean.

How to calculate the capacity of the sewer well?

It's easy to do it. It is necessary to multiply the amount of water consumed during the day in the country and the number of days for which the accumulation of uncleans is accumulated, for the processing of which microorganisms are required for three days. This must be considered when building a brick cleaning facility. It must be in size so as enough space for waste accumulation in a few days.

Laying bricks sewer well

After determining the place of placeholding the well, the acquisition of the desired material is proceeded. The technological process of masonry of the wells from the brick begins with the fill of the foundation. The solution is prepared from two parts of the sand, one - gravel and cement. Height 20 centimeters. After the fill, he needs to give time to solidify. Usually for this enough one week. Every day the foundation should be watering with water.

Then the laying of the wells, the plaster of the bottom and walls, coating with bitumen in two layers. The overlap is installed from the reinforced concrete plate or the bevelled shield from the tree, the hatch and the tube for ventilation.

Close-up of bricks

Buildings of this type are used in water supply and sewer houses. It is recommended to place at least 3-12 meters from the residential premises. Its size is determined individually. The main requirement is the presence of conditions for the work related to the maintenance of the pipeline.

Wells may have a different form. The walls of the round well have a thickness equal to the length of one brick, which is stacked with tiles. The laying of the brick of the rectangular shape is performed according to the two-row system.

For brickwork, a solution of cement and sand is used in a dry ground in a ratio of 1: 4, and in the wet - 1: 3. The seams inside the well are also maintained by a solution.

If groundwater is shut down at the depth of the dummy well, its outer surface is plastered. The thickness of the layer reaches two centimeters, and the height is half a meter above the level of groundwater. When laying the well walls in its seams, iron or steel brackets are closed. The distance between them is 35 centimeters. The brackets are located vertically in a chess order in two rows. They replace the steps on the descent and the rise in the mine.

Requirements

To the material from which the well is erected, special requirements are presented. Brick should not have chips, cracks and be hollow. The solution is taken with a standard recipe. It includes portland cement M400 and pure sand with grain size of no more than two millimeters. The solution is stronger if it contains less sand. It is easy to learn in the ratio of ingredients. The solution of the M50 brand is considered optimal: one part of cement and four - sand.

Jumpers, arches, arches from bricks are today, rather, granting the design of the exterior of the building. The clincling device, arched jumpers allows you to enter a modern building in the current building of the past. Arches and vaults are an integral part of many types of furnaces and fireplaces. The proposed technology of masonry of brick outlook will help perform work efficiently.

Varieties of brick overlap of openings

The jumper is the overlap of the door or window opening. Reinforced concrete jumpers received the greatest application. They can overlap long spans and withstand heavy loads.

Brick jumpers are used only for non-vacant walls, as they do not have sufficient strength to do so. The width of the span should not exceed 1.7 m.

1 - ordinary; 2 - clincling; 3 - loaky; 4 - Basic arched

Ordinary brick jumpers are called ordinary. Bricks in them supports fittings. As the architectural detail of the facades are used clincling, in-friendly, fitted, arched, semi-round and box jumpers.

1 - half-round; 2 - firmly; 3 - krakobovaya

The species of them are due to the form of the day, or rather, the outline of its upper part. According to the principle of arched jumper, vaults are laid out, which are overlapping buildings.

Before the invention of concrete (the end of the XIX century), the openings were overlapped with brick jumpers. It was not only tribute to beauty. The clincling and varieties of the arched floor floors kept the load from the wall at the expense of the space, which provided the fan arrangement of the brick in the masonry.

In the temple architecture, the arches and arches as the method of overlapping openings and premises, steel with the time canon of church architecture. Modern brick arched outlooks and vaulted overlaps are only an architectural solution.

The use of arched or clincling jumpers is necessary when reconstructing buildings and structures of the XVII-XIX centuries.

Furnaces, fireplaces and today are erected in almost every country house, where arched or clincling jumpers and cylindrical vaults are used during the construction of the SUN or OUT.

Private jumpers

Private jumpers are made according to the principle of conventional brick masonry. It also leads to dressing and ensuring the horizontal and vertical of the seams. His difference from simple masonry is to comply with the special quality of work. It is necessary to carefully fill the seams to create a joint work of all bricks overlap.

Private jumpers, unlike conventional masonry, not only compress under the weight of the overlying wall, but also bend, without having supports in the open. The size of the brick jumper is accepted from the calculation of its work in the opening of the bending. The height is 5, 6 rows of masonry. In length, the size is considered in the width of the opening plus 500 mm in each direction from it.

By virtue of the special importance of the design of the overlapping of any loot, the brick is selected for the selected masonry, the solution of the solution is applied not lower than 25. In the ordinary jumper, the brick is based on the reinforcement, which is deployed in the cement-sandy solution layer.

Reinforcement is prescribed by calculation and depends on the magnitude of the load on the disc. With small values, the valves are installed structurally from the circular steel with a diameter of 4-6 mm. The amount of it is one of the rod at half the brick wall. The reinforcement should go to the masonry for the face of a minimum of 250 mm. Ends of them bend up around the brick.

1 - Armature; 2 - solution; 3 - opal

For the device of the ordinary jumper, like any other, you will need a tool that is used for conventional brickwork. To make a reinforced support brick, a formwork is needed. It can be made of 40-50 mm thick.

Avoid the flow of the solution and give the bottom of the jumper. A more even view can be used on the board any rolled waterproofing or a simple polyethylene film. It should be remembered that the irregularities on the surface of the formwork will be praised on the appearance of the top of the goat.

The formwork spreads the solver layer on which the reinforcement rods are stacked and inserted into it. Then the second layer of the solution is stacked, which covers the reinforcement. It is important to observe the thickness of the protective layer for metal products. It is at least 3 cm.

The solution when hardening should dial the necessary strength so that you can maintain further jumper masonry. The term of maintaining it in the formwork is at least 12 days in the summer, in the fall - at least 20 days. In the period of negative temperatures, adherence to special events developed for winter masonry.

To support laying formwork, bricks are released, which are subsequently cut down after dialing with a solution of full strength and removal of boards. You can arrange a furrow in the masonry and start formwork in it, after removing which a brick with a masonry device is installed in this place.

1 - formwork; 2 - Release Brick

Big Pieces (wider than 1.5 m) assume installation under the formwork of racks. You can set the support boards under the root flooring to install on the edge.

Clinches jumpers

Clinty jumpers do not require a support from the reinforced solution. The carrying capacity of such a jumper occurs due to the returor of the brick-shaped brick installation.

There is a clinic jumper device for an option:

• wedge-shaped vertical seam laying;
• wedge-shaped brick form.

In the case of a wedge-shaped seam, its thickness is taken from at least 5 mm, and from above - no more than 25 mm. If the clunk brick is used, the seam in the masonry is made one thickness of no more than 10 mm. Clinches jumpers are installed using a formwork with circles.

If the window or doorway is molded with quarters, then for the construction of a clincling jumper it will take three circles. One thing is done shorter and is installed at the level of quarters, two others - inside the opening. The larger knocked the formwork, which can be made from the boards.

The wall is placed to the level of the top of the jumper with the device, the fifth (support). At the same time, the angle of inclination of the edge of the jumpers (bricks) is determined relative to the vertical. Next, it is necessary to place all rows on the formwork of the future overlap. Their number must be odd. It is important when calculating the device of each row to take into account the thickness of the seam.

The central brick row is inserted vertically and is a lock. It creates compression at the bottom of the jumper and makes it possible to withstand the overlying load without reinforcement.

1 - castle; 2 - hepat

Start the masonry clincling jumper from heaten to the middle of two sides, in order to end up approach the central brick - the castle. It is possible to withstand exactly the direction of each seam, finding the point of crossing the lines of the direction of both spots. This place is driven by a nail on the formwork and with the help of a rope tied to the nail, the line of each seam is determined.

Arched jumpers, arches and vaults

The principle of the device of arched overlaps of openings and arches does not differ from the masonry of clinty jumpers. The shape of the arch can be better, shaded, semi-round, boxed. Their difference consists in choosing a center, segment size and circle radius.

In any embodiment, the central line of the seam is perpendicular to the inner surface of the jumper or arc. The curve line is formed due to a wedge-shaped seam or wedge-shaped brick. In the case of arched overlap, the central line of the seam is the continuation of the radius of the curve.

Calculation of arched jumper: 1 - leek arch; 2 - half-cicultural arch; h - arc height; S - width of the window or doorway; R - Arc Radius

The thickness of the seams is accepted, as in clinty jumpers:

• minimum 5 mm - for the bottom of the vertical seam;
• maximum - 25 mm - for the top.

1 - brick jumpers; 2 - wedge-shaped solution; 3 - Castle Brick; 4 - Crooko

The formwork shape is manufactured in accordance with the chosen shape of the overlap. Checking the radial direction of the seams and the correctness of the curvature arches is made by the rope tied to the center of the circle of each jumper section. You can make a carbon template for the desired outline of the semicircle or segment.

Arches are laid out on the principle of arched jumper. The vaults today are erected in the construction of public buildings, churches or temples. For their device, a solid formwork is made of the desired outline. Cylindrical arches are laid out often in the "Christmas tree". The laying is carried out simultaneously parallel to the axis of the arch and rows at an angle of 45 °.

Cligs are published under the formwork, which gradually remove when platforms are removed to ensure that it is uniform. Fresh laying is very sensitive to loads. It is impossible to put tanks with a solution or laying the brick for masonry. This can lead to distortion of the shape of overlapping and disruption of brick binding with mortar.

The arches and arches of the complex configuration require high qualifying of the bricklayer, and it is better to entrust work by a specialist. Having understood in the subtleties of the technology of brick overlaps of openings, the construction of the jumpers and the arches of a simple configuration will not be much difficulty.

Brick jumpers, arches and arches who came from the past, and today will decorate the facade of the house, fence, small architectural forms, fireplaces and ovens, harmoniously fitting into the interior or exterior of almost any architectural style.