Juniper is a unique coniferous plant, which has an excellent appearance, pleasant aroma and valuable properties. It doesn't have to care for practically no, because it is frost-resistant, it is well tolerating drought and can grow even in poor soil. But even such copies sometimes become difficult to oppose diseases, pests and other factors that do not give it fully developed. As a result, the juniper dries off, and the owner of the garden remains in bewilderment why. What would get the answer to this question and warn the death of shrub, it is worth familiar with the article below.

Diseases

Each plant in the absence of prophylaxis suffers from all sorts of diseases. Juniper - no exception. And before saving juniper from drying, you need to know what deal with. Very often, this coniferous plant is influenced by spruce. It all begins with the appearance of small black spores of the rounded form on the couch. If you do not fix the disease at this stage, the juniper will begin shirt.

Preventive procedures will help in the fight against spider. The second enemy of juniper - rust. The cause of its appearance is basidial mushrooms, but before getting to the conifer, they wind are transferred to the foliage of apple or pears, develop there before the tubercles with disputes and only then fall into juniper. Rust can very long "sit" in needles, so the disease is visible only two years after infection by yellowighting on the needles. The fight against this disease should begin with the removal of media. After it is necessary to cut all the affected juniper branches and treat fungicides. Fungal diseases can also lead to the death of the plant. Most often, the shrub suffers from them in the spring. It is possible to determine them on dark disputes on the crust, yellowing and falling of the needles. To prevent the development of the disease, dry branches need to be trimmed, and cuts - to handle copper vitrios. Mushrooms can also cause an incredible or biatherell cancer. The disease amazes the plant very quickly and, if she covered half the bush, he is no longer saved. You can identify it in the cracked crust, yellow, fallen needles.

Sucking pests

Many fall into a stupor when juniper dries. What to do in such cases know not all and it becomes the cause of the final death of coniferous. One of the most common reasons for the yellowing of the plant are pests. Young specimens may suffer from Tly, which causes twisting and drying branches. To prevent this, it is necessary to carefully ensure that the ants appear next to appear (they attract the TRU). There were ate on the branches, rounded larvae can be seen, then the shrub is striking juniper panels, which sucks juice from the needles. They can be cut off with a knife or wear on the branch of a belt of straw with caterpillar glue. Also occurs a web tick. It can be identified by a thin web, which causes the yellowed juniper and the appearance of brown spots. It is recommended to treat the plant with an infusion from dandelion or garlic and no longer wondering the yellowing of juniper.

Cheering pests

Purple butterflies, shooting mole, the sawwlter is also often attacking coniferous plants, as a result of which you can see how the juniper is yellow. What to do with such cheese-minded pests? First, you need to regularly handle the plant with special substances. Includes are best suitable. Secondly, you should not be happy if the pests disappeared by themselves. As a rule, they go under the ground to overheat. So it is recommended to regularly pull the soil to destroy the pupa.

The reasons why juniper will dry, quite a lot. The main thing is to correctly identify the problem and effectively fight with it, otherwise such a decoration for the garden will quickly cease to be.

(Lat. Gymnosporagium Sabinae) - Mushroom of the Pucciniaceae family. Its interesting feature is that for the development he requires two host plants: juniper and pear.

However, these are precisely different types of juniper. It is on them that the pathogen winter. Juniper is an intermediate link in the distribution of this disease.

On the affected perennial branches of conifers formed spider-shaped grows. In the spring, orange gelatinous substance appear on them, in which spores infecting the pear ripen.

The wind they spread to a distance of several hundred meters and infect young leaves, sometimes fruit.

The rain favors this rain and increased air humidity. The fruit bodies of the bright orange body on juniper (Moscow region) appear in early May and stay on the trunk or branches of 2-3 weeks. Therefore, in a later date, it is difficult to determine the healthy juniper or amazed rust.

How to do it? Sverheads and branches of juniper amazed rust, in places in the development of the mushroom thickened.

If the fungus develops a long time, then the thickening cracks and the plant will die in the near future.

Rust on pear

The first symptoms in the form of rounded yellow-orange spots on the leaves appear after the flowering of the pear.

This is how rust looks like a pear. Stock Foto Moscow region 20 06 2016

Determine the first stage of rust development on juniper is difficult, dry separate twigs, as if from a sun burn.

Usually rust does not cause serious harm to trees. But with mass defeat and early leavefall, the ability to photosynthesis deteriorates. Rust weakens a tree, reduces immunity. In winter, when frosts above - 20 degrees, the tree can freeze. The crop of pear fruit decreases or it will not be at all

In the spring to the dissolution of the kidney, the pear should be treated by the Bordeaux liquid.
The most effective means of combating rust on pear leaves are the preparations of the Sorrow, Topaz.

Since juniper serves as a source of pear infection, it is necessary to treat both plants. There are no special funds for this. Fungicides can be used: volatile (0.1%), Fundazole (0.1%), Bayleton (0.1%), Bordeaux liquid (1%), Sumps, topaz and other preparations of a wide range of action used to combat a pair and mildew of apple trees and pears, rust.
TERMS OF CONDUTION: In the spring - before flowering pear and after it, in the fall - at the end of August - September, when "horns" are formed on the leaves of the tree.

Stock Foto Moscow region 19 09 2016

Details on the processing of pear fungicides:

Processing pear regularly, not less than 4-5 times per season.

The first processing of any drug is carried out to the swelling swelling.

An early spring can be treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid or copper chlorok.

It is better to carry out such treatment with a well-established positive temperature, cool and dry weather.

The second spraying is carried out at the very beginning of flowering, the third - immediately after, the fourth is another 10 days.

Colloidal sulfur applies 5 times in the season: before the appearance of leaves, before the start of flowering, after flowering, during the formation of fruits and after the leaffall (40 grams on the water bucket).

Polymors also perfectly copes with signs of rust. Processing is carried out at least 4 times.

The first - at the beginning of the swelling swelling, the second - in the formation of buds, the third - after flowering, and the fourth - for small emerging fruits.

At the same time, the last spraying should be carried out no earlier than 2 months before harvesting (2 grams on the water bucket).

The highly universal fungicide, helping to get rid of not only rust, but also from the paste and other unpleasant pear diseases. Processing them spend at least 3 times a year: before the appearance of leaves, before flowering and after. This drug operates within 20 days (2 ml on water bucket).

Treatment of fungicides: Topaz, Bayleton (triadimephone) - good attending fungicide, used about 5-6 times a season (10 grams of water bucket).

The first processing is desirable to conduct at the first signs of the disease. Second, and subsequent, with an interval of 2-4 weeks.

At the very beginning of March, all the affected shoots and branches are cut off, capturing 5-10 cm of healthy tissue.

Tools for trimming should be thoroughly wired with alcohol, and the sections of the sections to handle copper vitrios and smear the waterproof.
In the fall, after the fallout of all the leaves, be sure to sprinkle the pear with a strong urea solution (700 grams on the water bucket).

The soil around the tree is constantly loose, we are stolen and drove for the winter. Do not forget about the timely introduction of phosphorus-potash fertilizers and regular cleaning of fallen leaves. But from the use of nitrogen fertilizers is better to refrain. If there is such an opportunity, it is better to remove the growing nearby juniper, or try to protect the pear away from it.

Some gardeners are used in the treatment of rust folk remedies. Such as the infusion of wood ash (500 grams on the water bucket) and the infusion of dung. However, such methods are not tangible result, and will suit only as preventive measures.

During the beginning of the beginning of the leaf fall, you can treat the pear of the urea 500 grams per 10 liters of water. In this pear, the pear should be moistened and the branches and leaves, including lying on Earth.

Even if you do not have juniper, the disputes of the disease can be listed from the neighboring sites, and since the neighbor cannot be made to remove contaminated plants or at least care for them correctly, then you will have to process a pear for prevention (spring to flowering and fall after leaffall)
Of course, when planning a garden, it is necessary to consider that neighborhood Juniper with a pear and an apple tree is dangerous. But, if it so happened that there are both plants on the site and you want to save them, you will have to work hard:

1. You can try to divide the landing of juniper from rustic high shrubs or trees with a thick crown. But it is difficult, especially in small sites.
2. Carefully and regularly examine juniper, especially lower branches, to detect the first signs of rust in a timely manner.
3. When detecting to be treated with fungicides and juniper, and rose colored. The first processing is carried out only early in spring, long before the start of flowering. The second - immediately after flowering, and the third and subsequent (if the disease progresses and further) - every 2 weeks.
4. If you notice the first signs of the disease, then immediately need to cut the affected parts of juniper and burn them. Under the bush to collect all the leaves, and explode the earth around them. Tools for trimming with alcohol, and sections - 1% copper vitriol and smeared with garden booth. In the quality of prevention, spend the spring and autumn spraying of juniper (advised by the "dubcatch").
You can still handle the juniper bushes with special drugs. For this, Saprol and Ditan are suitable. Spraying them is carried out in turn, with an interval of 7-8 days.
It is important not to forget to spray with fungicides and a pear with an apple tree. For this, burgundy liquid is suitable, preparations with sulfur or other fungicides.
In rainy weather, juniper can be covered with a film. After all, mushrooms develop only with high humidity. (Although under the film, the plant can be prohibited).
Such measures can lead to success and your plant will not die. But if this treatment did not help, then you should think about the transfer of the bustle to another place or completely destroy it.
5. In order for juniper to be more resistant to any diseases, it is necessary to fertilize it in time, using microfertres and immunostimulants. This will help them resist rust. And also often spend the inspection of the bush so as not to miss the first signs of infection.
It is important if the disease (rust) entered the chronic stage, it is impossible to cure juniper, especially when rustic trees or shrubs grow nearby. Therefore, it is better to remove one of the crops from the garden, leaving the one that you are more expensive, or transfer it to another, remote place. At the same time, the juniper can be trimmed completely, leaving the lower living kidneys on a bush. Thus, you will prevent further dissemination of the disease and save juniper.
It is important to identify the disease in time and treat it, and even better to prevent its occurrence with preventive measures. Cerencing you can engage in both pear and juniper. Monitor juniper, and when returning rust - re-processing by fungicides, borobo liquid, or, as many, copy-containers advise. For the most effective impact on rust, it is necessary to change the drugs that juniper and pear are treated.

Information provided

Head of the Laboratory of Plant Protection of APK "Vitus" Sinelnikov K. Yu.

Specialists of the plant protection department of APK "Vitus" carry out the entomological and phytopathological examination of green spaces, develop individual plans for plant protection measures, carry out the processing of green planting by means of protection and carry out comprehensive plants care.

Department of Plant Protection APK "Vitus": [Email Protected]

Juniper is a beautiful but complex plant. Often the needles without visible causes begin to dry and fall. So what to do if juniper wishes? How to deal with it?

Juniper consider the unpretentious decoration of garden and country sites. But in fact it turns out the opposite. Evergreen shrub brings a lot of trouble to the owner. And the most important is the yellowing of the needles. In this article, we will look at why juniper yellow and how to deal with it.

Juniper designer: Causes

The reasons for the yellowed juniper can be somewhat.

Cause №1. Diseases

One of the most common diseases - schute. It manifests itself in the form of changing the color of the needles, their die away and falling out. The causative agent is a mushroom that affects the most part weak plants growing in the shade or on too wet soils. Recognize the problem can be at the beginning of summer. It is during this period that ellipsed or rounded darkens appear on branches. If you do nothing, the needle becomes yellow-brown shade.

Spit is a common coniferous disease.

How to fight . Regularly and timely remove affected branches. Preventive processing of fungicides will prevent the appearance of the fungus. It is necessary to do this in spring and autumn. The following drugs have proven not bad - quadris, soon, strides, Ridomil Gold, Tilt.

The second disease is the disease - rust. Caused by basidial mushrooms. Manifests itself in the form of yellow-orange growths on branches. The peculiarity is that not only juniper is affected, but also neighboring plants - for passing the cycle, the causative agent needs two carriers. First, the disputes are transferred to the wind on the apple trees, pears, hawthorn or rowan. The leafs are formed on the leaves and "rusty" stains, of which disputes are poured, which then fall into juniper. It is noteworthy that yellow-orange growths are noticeable immediately - about the second year after the defeat. The first disturbing signals that cannot be ignored - thickening and wounds on the branches of juniper. According to observations, Cossack and Virgin juniper are susceptible to rust more than the other varieties.

How to fight . If the rust has already appeared, it is difficult to cure the disease. It is necessary to eliminate the first "host". Damaged juniper branches are cut. Pruning is made with a sterile secateur (process it with alcohol), otherwise you can only worsen the situation. Healthy branches are treated with fungicides. Reduce the harmfulness of rust will help microfertilizers with an immunomodulatory effect.

Drying branches - Another headache of gardeners and dachens. It leads not only to the loss of decorative bush, but often - to death. The pathogens are a large group of fungi, beginners "work" in the spring. The needles turn yellow and begins to be down. Later on the crust and on branches there are dark small disputes. It is noted that the dryls of Skyrocket, Blue Star and Blue Sarpet are most susceptible to dryness.

How to fight . Sacred branches and bark particles are removed, the plant is carefully treated with fungicides. Sections and wounds disinfect with copper vitrios. Preventive treatment is carried out in spring and autumn. Sometimes - in the summer.

NEFT AND BIATELEL CANK Also causes the yellowing of the needles. Most often, the mushroom is located on the crust and the dissemination of the illness contributes to the mechanical damage to the "outerwear" juniper. The disease quickly progresses - branches become yellow, the cortex cracks, longitudinal ulcers appear and the plant begins to die.

How to fight . If the lesion area is big, then you can easily save the juniper. Bad branches are removed, the plant is treated with Vectra preparations, Bayleton, Sorrow, Tilt. In order to prevent prevention, twice a year (early spring and autumn) spray the bushes with solutions containing copper (Bordeos mixture, oxycom, copper vitrios, phytoosporin).

Specialists advise changing drugs - it significantly improves the effectiveness of the events held. At the same time, not only the plant is processed, but also the Earth. If the juniper did not succeed, then the soil changes in this place, as a last resin - disinfect.

Prevent the outbreak of diseases will help careful selection of new planting material. If the health of the bushes causes you doubts, it is better not to risk and treat them with such drugs as Maxim, Quadris, PhytoPorin.

Increases the risk of infection of thickened landings and heavy soils with a bad air exchange. Optimal time for prevention - April and October.

Cause # 2. Sucking pests

Sometimes young juniper appears aphid. It delays the development of the plant, causes twisting and yellowing branches. The struggle measures are to prevent the spread of ants, because they are "graze" tool. Helps washing branches with soapy water. Do not forget to protect the soil around the juniper so that the water does not leak to the roots. The kneading is repeated several times with an interval of 7-10 days. The malicity of the Tly reduces the trimming of shoots, on which numerous colonies are located.

Juniper Shield No less dangerous. If the needles began to yellow and fall out at the beginning of summer, carefully inspect the shrub. Perhaps the reason in rounded larvae, tightly sitting on needles. The shields are very small (up to 1.5 mm) - to notice them difficult. The shield sucks the juice from the bark, as a result, the plant changes the color and begins to dry out. If the pests appeared recently, then carefully consider them a knife. In more launched cases, they are sprayed with insecticides (Aktara, Fufanon, Aktellik). On the branches, belts from straw or burlap covered with caterpillar glue are preventing the spread of larvae.

Cobed tick Having enveloped the juniper with a thin web, which is crying and covered first with yellow, and then brown spots. The tick is especially dangerous in dry weather when a lack of moisture in the soil. In one growing season, the adhesive female gives up to 6 generations, that is, harm from the vital activity of sputum ticks is essential. Prevent the appearance of pests will help attentive care and care for rapid bushes. Summer spray the branches with water from the spray. When the web is found, prepare for spraying the infusion of dandelion, garlic or colloidal sulfur. Acaricides are used in particularly launched situations.

Gallians are not a harmless mosquito.

Pest sucking pests prefer young or weakened plants. That is why it is important to regularly make fertilizers, loosen the earth and remove weeds. Much attention should be paid to the quality of planting material - buy seedlings only from proven suppliers. Soil at the place of disembarkation should be lightweight, fertile with a weak level of acidity.

Cause number 3. Cheering pests

In May, violet butterflies may appear over juniper. If you ignore their fussy flush, then in July, green caterpillars with a dark red head will settle in the branches. it pine spiders, famous for their voraciousness. In October, the caterpillars suddenly disappear, but not worth rejoicing. They go under the Earth or hide in the fallen needles, to safely fall into the pupa's stage, and then take again for the destruction of juniper. The struggle measures are to spray shrubs with intestinal contact insecticides and pumping land in order to destroy the pupa.

Juniper peeling You can learn on green larvae with a brown head and three dark stripes on the caller. They feed on esgek and cheese, turning the fluffy green juniper into the "burnt broom". Regularly pump the soil, destroy the larvae and spray the plant with a carbofos.

Escape Mol Young shoots eats, why the juniper grows poorly, becomes pale and chahl. It should be emphasized that they spray a bush in this case are not simple insecticides, but with the addition of mineral oils.

Wishes Juniper: What to do? This question worries many connoisseurs of evergreen shrubs. Is it possible to increase the effectiveness of the recovery measures carried out? What advice specialists?

• to eliminate mushrooms, use fungicides, insects and their larvae - insecticides, ticks - acaricides;
• treat bushes several times before full recovery with an interval of 2 weeks;
• in windy weather, the spraying should not hold;
• the optimal time for disinfection is morning or a warm day;
• with fungal diseases, cropped branches are treated with copper vigorous and lubricate oil paint on the olife;
• the next cocktail has proven itself: epin (1 ampoule) + zircon (1 ampoule) + 5 liters of water. This mixture is plenty of yellowed cheese. You can several times with an interval in a few days.

If the needles fall only on the inside of the crown and only at the beginning of autumn, then, most likely, nothing terrible happens. This is a natural process of changing the "fur coat", which lasts 2-3 years. After the fallout of old needles under it you will see a new one - the young and beautiful.

But if the needles fall out across the crown, then maybe the reason lies in an excessive atmosphere gaspace. Also yellowing can be caused by acid rain. Recently, unfortunately, this often happens.

In any case, do not wait for the instant result. The needles restored long. Sometimes it takes 2-3 years.

Other reasons for yellowing juniper

Not only mushrooms and pests contribute to the yellowing of the needles. To juniper pleased the eyes, it is important to armonize knowledge on the right landing and cultivation.

One of the most common reasons for the yellowed needles is drying the roots. When landing, put a few small stones on the bottom of the pit, cover their ground (mix it with peat, sand and clay) and only then begin to plant juniper. Do not fall asleep the root cervix completely. Do not land the shrub on the outdoor sun - Juniper loves her half. Do not allow strong overwhelming and soil sealing. Spring and autumn spray with such growth bioregulators as "zircon", "Elin", "Elin-Extra".

Too wet land can also provoke the drying of the crown. Roots begin to rot and needles yellow. It will help a transplant to dry ground, removing rotting and processing healthy roots of rhoin. If the juniper grows at your house in your pot, then it is better to take a structured soil. Mix the pushed pine bore (about 5% of the total volume), the same amount of river sand of a large fraction and filler for feline toilets ("Barsik Effect", "Barsik Standard", "Zeolite). In the pot, there must be large drainage holes.

The fact that the rapid juniper needs to be stolen to the winter know many, but not everyone knows that, for example, Loutrasil, the agroterm or spunbond is impossible to do it. These materials not only passes the sun's rays, but also hold moisture, which leads to the yellowing of the needles - to frosty and sunburn. Young bushes are very sensitive to the spring sun. In March they need to cover the burlap. It can be crown from above, and you can pull on the frame, putting such a screen on the sunny side. Frost's adult plants are not afraid, but they can suffer from the spring sun, so it is also better to strengthen them.

The needles of juniper turns yellow with an increase in alkali and acid in the soil. You can check the level of their content using a test that is sold in any specialized store. If you hold dogs, do not let them go to the trees. Watering animals burns cheese and increases content in alkali ground.

The best treatment is prevention. Take care of the juniper - hide from the destructive spring sun, loose ground, do not dry up or drop the roots and look at the shrub on the subject of disturbing symptoms as possible. If you do it all the time, the plant will be healthy, and therefore will delight you with the beauty and stunning aroma of needles.

Video: how to care for juniper

Juniper - popular coniferous plants in landscape design. The main advantage of these in the beautiful needles, the variety of forms and coloring, in the characteristic aroma, resistance to adverse factors of the medium. But in order to get healthy and well-developed copies, it is necessary to familiarize themselves with possible difficulties that may arise in their cultivation.

Juniper, found in our culture, mostly frost resistant. However, some of them may suffer from spring burns. Such plants often come out of wintering with "burnt", yellow cheese, which over time crepts and reduces decorativeness. This is especially true of the Juniper of the Chinese and Juniper Ordinary.

Sunny burns

The cause of this phenomenon is physiological drying. In February - March, when the intensity of solar illumination increases, the krone juniper, especially on the south side, is strongly heated, and active photosynthetic activity begins in it, which requires moisture. Since during this period, the roots cannot supply the plant with water due to the frozen land, the intracellular fluid of tissues is consumed. As a result of such physiological dryness, the needles begins to die. From physiological drying, juniper with vertical in the form of crowns are most strongly suffering, especially the Chinese juniper varieties ( Juniperus chinensis) - Strict ( Stricta.) and Strict Variagat ( Stricta Variegat.), and ordinary ( Juniperus Communis) - Hisnik ( Hibernica.), Maei ( Meue) and compress ( Compressa.). However, they can burn and their horizontal forms, such as repanda ( Repanda.), Prostrath ( Prostrata.), as well as other varieties of these species.

Solution to the problem

• To prevent burning, juniper is dialed in February - Marta Spanbond, Loutrasil or other material.
• You can also warm the soil under the plant, shed it with warm water.
• Significant damage can cause juniper and heavy snowfall. With low air temperature in winter, the branches of juniper become fragile and easily break under the weight of snow, so vertical juniper for the winter is recommended to bind, and with horizontal, if possible, shake snow.

Significant harm to juniper caused diseases caused by different groups of pathogens. Most often meet and cause significant harm to the following diseases: rust, trachiomicosis, drying of the branches and spider juniper.

Rust

The causative agent of the disease is basidial mushrooms. A very common disease of juniper is the "swelling" of branches and stems caused by rust mushrooms. The disease is manifested by the presence of bright orange on the branches. Such a bright coloring of mycelium mushroom is due to the presence of oil drops in it with a pigment close to carotine. The disease can last for several years, while the plant not only loses, also dry its branches, which can lead to death.

For this pathogen, a complex development cycle is characteristic of the presence of two owners. On juniper, there are such pathogens who have different additional owners: Gymnosporagium Mali-Tremelloides (the second owner - apple trees; Evalny stage), G. juniperi (second owner - Ryabina; Eval stage); G. Amelanchieris (the second owner of the IRGA; Ecal Stage); G. Elavariiforme DC. (The second owner is a hawthorn; Emiral stage). The most common pathogen is Gymnospranangium Sabinae, whose second owner is a pear. Most often, he amazes Juniper Cossack and Virginsky and their varieties.

Most often he amazes Juniper Cossack and Virginsky and their varieties

gYMNOSPORANGIUM SABINAE Mushroom on the trunk

mushroom Gymnosporagium Sabinae.

The pear also significantly suffers from this disease, and it is possible to detect it according to characteristic sealing growths on the leaves. The development of the disease occurs as follows. First, the fruit plant is infected with air, for example, a pear. Orange stains are formed on its leaves, which in the middle of the summer turn into a waste-like grown on the underside of the sheet forming disputes. These disputes (Ecyospor) in August - September infect juniper. First, in places of penetration disputes on the branches of juniper appear thickening, which are then covered by wounds. And in two years they are already visible with jelly orange or brownish grows, basidiospores are formed in them, which are then transferred to the pear, infecting it and cause it significant harm.

Measures of struggle

When explicitly signs of rust disease on the branches of the juniper, i.e., when the organs of the spout appears, it is no longer a treaty. Sick branches must be cut and destroy, and the remaining branches are carefully treated with fungicides. When trimming, it is necessary to disinfect the secator in alcohol, since the use of an non-sterile tool contributes to the spread of the disease. Treatment of diseases caused by rust mushrooms is primarily prophylactic.

Sick branches need to be cut and destroy, and the remaining branches are carefully treated with fungicides

In the spring of the diseases of the disease, all plants should be treated propagally several times with fungicides. Well established himself a Ridomil Gold MC, a combined drug of contact system. A good therapeutic and prophylactic effect is provided by Tilt and Sorrow, Bayleton, Vectra. The norms of the costs of fungicides during the treatment of juniper from diseases should be increased by no less than twice as compared to those specified in the instructions. It should not be forgotten that when processing requires a change of drugs.

Trachemicosis, or trachemic and fading

Pretty widespread among the most different plants and caused by the mushrooms of the genus Fusarium. On juniper, especially in the wet years and in places with overpressible soil, where the water is observed, the disease is manifested caused by the Fusarium Oxysporum mushroom in the soil. Infection occurs through the root system. Roots brown, then bright grayish disputes appear on them. The mycelium then germinates to the vascular system of branches and trunk, where it closes the conductive beams, as a result of which the transmission of nutrients occurs, and the plant dies. Drying usually occurs, starting with the topless shoots, the needles on which the reddish tint acquires. Spreading on the plant, the mushroom leads first to the drying of individual branches, and then the entire plants.

fusarium Oxysporum infection result

mushroom Fusarium Oxysporum

Most often, the trachemicosis of Virgin and Middle-average juniper is the varieties of Pfitzerian Aurea and Pfitzerian Gold Star ( Juniperus Media Pfitzeriana. Aurea. and PFITZERIANA GOLD STAR.), Sometimes Cossack and its varieties.

Measures of struggle

• When the drying branches are detected, they should be removed, and the plant and the soil are thoroughly treated with fungicides under them, since the infection can be maintained in a plant for a long time, and in the soil. Most often, the disease is transmitted with the planting material or when planting plants into infected soil. It should be noted that the soil at the site of the remote deceased plant should be disinfected, and it is best to change, since not all pathogens are easy to destroy.
• If the plant is bought in a dubious place, whose one should be disinfected, shedding it with such drugs as quadris, maxim or phytosporin.
• For a small plant with an open root system, good disinfection results gives soaking roots in a solution of drug Maxim for 2-3 hours.

Drying of the branches of juniper

Drying of the branches of juniper is a serious illness that often leads not only to loss of decorativeness, but also to the death of the plant. The causative agents of the disease is a number of mushroom pathogens, which can be defined only when crops in pure cultures. This Cytospora Pini, Diplodia Juniperi, Hendersonia Notha, Phoma Juniperi, Phomopsis Juniperovora, Rhabdospora Sabinae, Pythium Cupressina. Signs of infection appear in spring when there is a yellowing and foaming of needles on plants. At first, small twigs begin to die, then the lesion zone increases and can capture the entire plant. Later between scales and on the crust appear numerous small dark-colored fruit bodies of fungi. The infection is maintained in the affected branches, needles, as well as their remnants. The spread of this infection, as well as most diseases, contribute to landings on heavy soils, poor air permeability of soils and thickened landings.

The spread of this infection, as well as most diseases, contribute to landings on heavy soils, bad air permeability of soils and thickened landings

drying Blue Star Branches

skyrocket juniper drying

Almost all types and varieties of juniper may be subject to the disease caused by these mushrooms. According to observations, the branches of the juniper, especially skyrocket, significantly suffers from drying. Skyrocket.), as well as the scaly. Of them are especially susceptible to BLO Star ( Blue Star), he sicks much more often and more intensively close to him Blue Carpet ( Blue Sarpet.), who may also suffer.

Measures of struggle

The emerging small affected twigs should be cut, as the infection is maintained on the crust and needle of the sick shoots, and the entire plant is treated with fungicides. But if the lesion area is very large, the plant is better to destroy completely.

Spit drone

Common juniper disease, especially ordinary and its varieties. The name of the disease occurred from the German word schutten (crouching), the disease is manifested in a change in color, dying and dedication of needles. Signs of the disease appear at the beginning of summer, when last year's needle acquires a brown-brown color. At these cheopsons at the end of August, characteristic black, up to 1.5 mm, rounded or ellipsed fruit bodies (apotection) appear - the sputus of the pathogen. The disease is most intensively developing in shaded plants growing in wet places, as well as on weakened plants.

spit drone

Fight measures. Be sure to remove the fallen patient a chevy and troughing dried branches in a timely manner. For the prevention to treat fungicides in the spring, in mid-April, and in the fall, before frosts. Good results, both in prevention and treatment, showed the drug Quadris, which inhibits spore germination and affects germinating gifs of mushrooms, as well as strobe drugs, Ridomil Gold MC.

In the next article, we will look at a number of major pests of juniper and methods of struggle.

The material was prepared by the online store Greenmarket for the magazine "Neskuchny Garden" number 5, 2014

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Juniper are valued by gardeners for unpretentiousness and ability to maintain decorativeness all year round. When growing this shrub, it usually does not arise large problems, however, sometimes it is necessary to deal with the yellowing of the needles. We find out why Juniper turns yellow and what to do with the problem.

Juniper differ in sustainable character and unpretentious. However, these hardened plants may affect diseases, pests, suffer from improper care. Most often, the first visual sign of the disease of the juniper is the yellowing of his needles.

Specific reasons for this symptom set:

Other reasons are likely - all of them we will look further.

Climate, weather

Juniper, albeit rather resistant to weather conditions, still sometimes suffering from some negative factors. Next, climate and weather phenomena are the most dangerous for the plant.

Tanning air

Some juniper varieties exhibit rare resistance to the high content of harmful substances in the air. Such varieties are even recommended for planting on the streets of the city.

However, there are varieties that bodies are not suitable. Juniper with a similar "gentle" constitution negatively react to a polluted atmosphere, including the yellowing of the needles. If the zagaznost is strong, the plant can even reset the needles. Years in this case occurs evenly throughout the bush. Decorativeness suffers significantly.

What to do

Unfortunately, with the air, we are unable to do anything. It is necessary to initially choose the varieties of those that are resistant to gaspace. If the plant's type is not planted, it will be lost irretrievably lost

Harmful precipitation

If the juniper is planted in an ecologically unfavorable region, probably the yellowed needles from acid rains and other malicious precipitation. Especially often falling such precipitations with a high content of sulfur in the north-west of our country. Inside the crown usually needles remains the same color.

What to do

Do not do anything, you will have to accept it.

This includes the causes associated with improper departure and content.

Wrong selection of soil

It is important to plant a plant into the soil with neutral acidity. Too sour or too alkaline soil juniper is not suitable. The optimal range is 5-5.5 pH.

What to do

If the soil does not match the plant's grade, make lime for littering or other substance for acidification (for example, overwhelming sawdust).

Landing late autumn

If you plant juniper on the eve of winter, it may not have time to frost normally. In this case, the change in the color of the needles on an ugly yellow color is almost inevitable.

What to do

To prevent the yellowing of the needles due to the movement of the Earth, it is necessary to plant a plant in the fall in advance, taking into account the climate of the terrain and the timing of the onset of cold weather. For the winter, the conifer needs to be cooled well.

Oversupply fertilizer

Since juniper is growing not at a rapid pace, it does not need a lot of nutrients. Typically, the plant is quite enough of those minerals that are in the soil. If you throw a shrub, he will change its color to yellow, blue grade - on green. Dwarf varieties will pull up to standard sizes, having lost all their charm.

What to do

No need to make fertilizers often. Feed the shrub only if the soil is strongly depleted.

Lack of moisture

Influence the painting of the needles in yellow can and lack of water. Although the juniper does not need frequent watering, occasionally it is necessary to moisturize it. Otherwise, the needles still dry into the arid summer.

What to do

It is necessary to establish a graph of irrigation and not forget to care for growing in the garden of a swift. Norm in the summer - 30 liters per adult plant for watering. And so that the moisture is not so quickly evaporated, inspired the soil in the rolling collar.

The spraying will be useful. It is recommended to carry out a procedure in summer.

Movement

The needles of the juniper may suffer due to the overaffect of moisture in the ground. The overseas leads both excessive watering and spring floods - if the shrub is planted in a lowland.

What to do

It should be responsibly related to irrigation, not allowing the convergence. When landing in the wells should be laid a layer of drainage, and the place for rooting should be chosen on a small elevation.

Defeat by pests

Sometimes gardeners notice that Juniper designer and due to the defeat of harmful insects. The pests of the sucking type are especially dangerous for the plant: they are sucking from the tissue of the coniferous juices, damping its moisture and nutrients. The needles as a result die, yellowing, falls. Next, review of frequent insects.

Aphid

The pest loves young shoots, so the juniper is usually striking in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season. There are ants, therefore, an important measure of prevention is the destruction of the anthills.

What to do

If the defeat happened, spray the plant with a soap solution with an interval of 7-10 days. With a strong infection, the most damned branches are better cut and burn.

Shield

This insect has a solid, impenetrable shell that protects it from insecticides. Conduct, thus, the shield is pretty hard.

What to do

In order to prevent the trunk of juniper, in the spring, it is deceived by glue to pione, preventing, thus, the movement of the pest to the branches and leaves. If the defeat has already happened, the potent insecticidal preparations are used in several steps, and also collect visible insects manually.

Gallians

The pests seem harmless to many gardeners, but in fact it is not. Dangerous as gallicle larvae and adult individuals. By the way, most adult gallians resemble small mosquitoes. Insects are highlighted in housingly specific substances, leading to the appearance of ugly outgrow trees on the crown - Galov.

What to do

It is necessary to fight gallons necessary if the beauty of juniper is important. Typically, measures are taking pretty radical, completely cutting the branches affected by pests and burning them.

Diseases

The needles of juniper can become yellow and due to various kinds of diseases. Next, with the most dangerous pathologies will get acquainted.

Schute

This is not one disease, but at once a few varieties. All sickness slices have fungal nature and affect exclusively conifers. The disease can lead not only to the yellowing of the needles, but also in heavy stages to its blaclication full of falling. The risk group includes young and weak juniper, as well as growing in cheese soil.

What to do

When the disease is still in the initial stage, sanitary treatment can help with drugs such as Xome, quadris, readomer, etc. The affected branches are cut and burned. If the shrub is amazed strongly, it will have to part with him, unfortunately.

Sickness sickness is much more profitable to warn. For prevention, you can use the same drugs as for treatment, but in a weaker concentration. In addition, it is important to originally choose seedlings without any signs of infection, choose to land dry areas, carefully care for.

Alternariasis

This is also a fungus, and quite dangerous. The defeat by alternariasis leads to the fact that the needles becomes a drone with a black flare. In severe cases, the needles suck, the branches are taken away. The risk of infection is especially great if the juniper is naked.

What to do

The branches already infected, it is necessary to cut and destroy away from the site. It is then disinfection with a solution of copper sulphate. Slices are embarrassed by oil paint.

Fusariosis

The disease leads to the trust of the needles, drying it, falling down. Transferred to infection through the soil.

What to do

It is necessary to disinfect the soil in which the juniper grows. Disinfection of phytosporin, Gamiir, Fundazole preparations. With a strong defeat, it is recommended to remove the upper part of the soil and replace it with clean.

Most often, fuzariosis together with a purchased seedliness. Therefore, purchasing a new plant, carefully take care of the selection of a nursery and do not buy on the market.

Rust

The disease manifests itself like taking and yellowing the needles, as well as in the form of ugly growths. Rust leads not only to the defeat of the needles, but shoots, in severe cases - trunk.

What to do

Having found signs of rust, it is necessary to urgently remove all the affected parts. Then a spraying of Fundazole, folira, topaz, other anti-gribes, is performed.

If the juniper is glad after winter

Usually, the change in the color of the needles in this case is associated with solar burns. The fact is that the early spring sun shines brightly, and the snow has not melted. As a result, the light is reflected from snow and affects a housing, which cannot withstand such intensive radiation.

In addition, it happens that in winter the juniper partially moves the roots, which is also negatively reflected in the state of the needles. These two reasons and lead to the yellowing of the plant after the winter.

What to do

To protect the plant from freezing in winter, it is recommended to plant frost-resistant climates in the regions with a cold climate.

In addition, it will help the mulching of the priority circle with autumn sawdust or peat. Such a natural mulch will protect the roots of juniper from the cold.

If the shrub is young, it is better to hide it with agrofiber or burlap. Colon-shaped varieties in front of wintering is recommended to bandage the crown so that it is not deformed under the snow cap.

Why plant dries

If the shrub began to dry, became brown, there may be several reasons for any reason. Usually the same happens if the growing agricultural engineering systematically disrupted, the plant struck pests or infectious disease. In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the cause of the problem and urgently do the treatment of the plant. If the measures are not taken in time, the shrub is likely.

The plant is examined, all the affected parts are detected, after which they must be removed and burn. This will stop the spread of infection. Sections should be treated with fungicidal preparations, copper vigorous. It is known that the fungus is afraid of copper-containing means.

So, we learned what reasons are the yellowed juniper needles and how to deal with the problem. As you can see, there are quite a few reasons. Before you begin to start, accurately set correctly in your particular case. Only then the therapy will end with success.