Very often, when assembling with an electrician, it is impossible to do without a vacuum cleaner. First of all, this is due to the processes of the strokes of the walls.

Use for this business homemade household models can not, otherwise you will threate them on the first day of work. Their dust collectors will be filled very quickly, and the vacuum cleaner itself overheat.

Buy a construction, which is not at all small money, can afford only professional masters, daily earn this type of activity.

And what if you are not a builder and you need a similar device only to finish the repair of electricians in your apartment? The optimal output in this case is one - independently make a building vacuum cleaner from the usual one.

And in terms of time for such a rework you will leave only a few minutes. And the materials that will be required for this can be safely found in the storage room, or purchase in the nearest plumbing store.

Let us consider in more detail the two very similar methods that are nevertheless structural differences between themselves.

Homemade cyclone from domestic vacuum cleaner

The first method has been presented for quite a long time on the Internet and on YouTube. You can easily find a lot of rollers with similar homemade cyclones.

However, professional builders, they cause quite natural questions and skepticism. Therefore, it should immediately make a reservation that they are suitable for the maintenance of chips from the tree.

But with cement dust, such devices are better not to work. Under it is more "sharpened" the second option.

The main "chip" which will allow you to calmly suck the kilograms of garbage, wood, metal sawdust and at the same time not to worry about the frequent change of filter bags, lies in the homemade "separator".

Its will need to be constructed from several components. For the entire assembly you will need:

Better here is suitable for a bucket from shtatleki stitches. It is heavier to flatten with vacuum.

The first thing in the center of the bucket cover drill or carefully cut the end-to-end hole under the tube.

Three holes are placed closer to the edges of the lid, where the edge rib.

If you do not have a special crown, then pre-skew the selection of the circle and gently cut through with its stationery knife.

The edges will turn out uneven, but they can be treated with a round file.

Two sewers are inserted into these holes. So that they securely held and there was no additional air supply, it is better to glue them.

To do this, first treat the edges of the tube with a sandpaper or file, in order to create a rough surface.

The same operation is done with a lid.

After that, insert into the inside the cover of the tube and apply a thick layer of glue by a thermopystole.

Adhesion do not spare. This will help create good tightness in these places and close all the gaps tightly.

There is a truth to another option at which you can do without glue and fan pipes. To do this, buy in Lerua merchant rubber transitional couplings.

They are different diameters. Pick up your hose.

For example, the tube from the hose 35mm is tightly inserted into the 40/32 coupling. But in 40mm pipe she will hang out. You will have to get out and collective me.

On that tube, which is located with the edge of the lid, dress the sewer with 90 degrees.

This design of the separator can be said virtually ready. Install the cover with discharges on the bucket.

The air hose from the vacuum cleaner is inserted into the central hole.

And the piece you will collect all the garbage and dust, stick to the angular connection.

It is desirable that sealing rings in the size of the corrugations of the vacuum cleaner are present in the tubes.

On this, the entire assembly is over. You can include a vacuum cleaner on the network and use.

Here is a visual video from within a bucket of a similar design. It is perfectly seen on it as sawdusts are absorbed into the separator, but they cannot break out of it and get into the vacuum cleaner.

The principle of work here is the next. Large dust sucking in the container drops on the bottom of the tank. At the same time, it does not fall into the zone where air pumps directly.

Three factors helps in this matter:

• Gravitis

• friction

• centrifugal force

They are forcing the garbage to rotate inside the bucket clinging to its walls, and then fall to the bottom. And only the small fraction gets directly in the vacuum cleaner dust collector.

Usually, such a cyclone on factory structures has a cone shape, but also cylindrical copies, too, often coped with this task.

True, the higher the bucket will be, the better the installation will work. Much here depends on the correct conjugation of the design of the tank and the power of the vacuum cleaner. Here is the plate from Chinese cyclones on the correct selection of the diameter of the hoses and the power of the aggregates.

In cylindrical buckets, the input of the tangential air flow is carried out not through the curvilinear side wall, but through the flat lid. Collect such a device an order easier.

In addition, if you have a few buckets, you can use them alternately. Just take off the lid from one and rearrange to another. And this is done even easier than in bulky cyclones.

If you have a powerful vacuum cleaner, instead of a plastic bucket from under emulsion paint, it is better to use a metal tank of the same form. Otherwise, the bucket will be shared and it will be plotted.

Recalls the power regulator in this business. If it is certainly present in your model.

Why the vacuum cleaner still fails

With this method, all the small dust will flow into the bag of the vacuum cleaner, and more or less large fractions will simply fall and remain in the bucket. As self-relocities assure, more than 95% of the construction trash will settle in the separator and only 5% falls directly to the dust collector of the household vacuum cleaner.

However, the thing is that even these 5% are able to gradually kill the vacuum cleaner. In addition, even in industrial cyclones, the claimed efficiency is rarely more than 90%, and what to talk about products made by their own hands, in which aerodynamics are far from perfection.

For 100% assembly of shallow fraction, you need an electrofiliter or a bubble column.

By the way, from some types of dust, a very strong static voltage appears. Be careful when working.

The longer you work with an aggregate without turning it off from the network, the higher it may be charge. Here you read the instructive comment by one real user such a self-made.

Therefore, on many cyclones, even the factory assembly, the flange grounds.

Five percent of fine wood chips are certainly not scary for a domestic vacuum cleaner. And if it is a small cement dust when sticking?

Such particles when entering inside, tightly clog the filter.

And it happens very quickly. All the effectiveness of the "cyclone" for a few minutes drops at least 2/3.

The main problem is in a bag for collecting dust. It is dense, and the filtration area is small. Therefore, it is not suitable for waste from plaster and concrete walls.

What to do? Is it really not to do without real construction? With intensive work, it really saves only the expensive and professional tool.

What is the difference between the construction vacuum cleaner from the usual

But for work on occasion to occasion, this design can be modified and improved. The idea belongs Shaudra Andrei.

Before we consider the second design option, ask yourself the question: "What is one of the main differences between household vacuum cleaners from the construction?"

In household models, cooling occurs due to the absorbable air.

That is, you vacuum the floor, the air sues garbage. Next occurs its filtering and cooling of the engine itself. After which the air is thrown out.

From here and implies the entire risk of engine damage. First, when clogging the filter, the engine cooling sharply falls.

Secondly, cement dust is 100% not delayed in the dust collector, and part of it flies through the windings, while removing the path of Naznya isolation. Such disperse dust kills all rubbing and spinning.

Adding water to the bottom of the tank does not particularly help. Instead of dust you get a lot of dirt, the burden of the bucket, and the filter will eventually elapse.

In the professional devices, the engine cooling is carried out separately, through special technological holes. Therefore, they are not as scary scored completely garbage bags.

Moreover, they still have automatic cleaning or shaking.

In order to remake the household model in the mind, you will need a little more spare parts than in the first case.

Working version of the construction vacuum cleaner from domestic

The main additional element here is a filter bag of nonwoven material. Copies are very well suited from the company Karcher - Article 2.863-006.0

Actually, this disposable filter. Your task make a reusable element from it.

To do this, cut its lower part and fold it a bit, a bit reducing the width (up to 22cm).

Next, this lower part must be closed with a special closure. We make it of two elements of the plastic cable channel and a piece of polypropylene tube.

The tube is split along, with a width of the slot about 5mm.

Apply them to the back of the fabric at the bottom.

Then inwhew through the slot prepared pipe.

As a result, from one-time you got a reusable filter bag. Moreover, much more than the one is installed inside the household model.

Next, have been done previously reviewed stages on the modernization of the bucket. In the lid, drill the holes and insert rubber corrugated workers in them.

One will be for connecting a filter bag, another - for the hose. Pick the diameters of their devices.

Here you can do without fan pipes and corners. Next, wear a plastic insert from the reusable filter on the adapter.

It remains tightly close the lid on the bucket. The design is ready to work.

It is although it looks like, but differs from the above first option. After you turn on the unit and start sucking garbage, it is a self-made reusable dust collector and will collect all the mud and dirt in itself.

Dust will not fly around as in the previous case. On the contrary, this bag from the air flow will swell inside the bucket.

Gradually, it will be filled with both heavy and small fractions that could be missed by cyclone.

However, do not forget about clogging of the walls in a reusable filter and reduce the thrust of the cooling flow of air. In order not to burn the motor of the household vacuum cleaner, it is necessary to carry out another event.

How not to burn a household vacuum

Most modern models have an integrated safety valve. It shows when the filter is already clogged and an additional air flow opens at that moment.

True, this is considered an emergency. Your task is not waiting for the moment of triggering this valve, and take advantage of a few other cunning.

Some devices directly on the handle have a thrust regulator in the form of a hole that opens or closes. Its just follow and should be opened in any kind of work.

If you do not have such a factory regulator, you can drill a small additional opening with a diameter of 12mm in a bucket itself.

Well, the most important thing is not to forget that any household vacuum cleaner, no matter how you upgrade it, has a certain period of continuous operation. Be sure to fix the start time and do not work longer than the period.

That is, it is elementary to pause. At least in order to shake the homemade filter. And he shakes just with the bucket.

When the dust collector is significantly filled, open the bucket cover and pull the tube from the guides at the bottom of the bag.

It will open with you and the garbage with dust can be deleted. After that, collect the whole design back and work on.

The normal functioning of the bag is enough for about three full fill. After that, cement dust in the tissue itself begins to slow down the air flow.

You will have to either replace the filter to a new one, or not just shake, but to capitalize it from any fine garbage and continue to work as if nothing had happened.

Save the health of your lungs. If you are engaged in woodworking, you know that the carpentry workshop, regardless of its size, needs a dust collector. Make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands.

Many say that the heart of the workshop is a hand saw, others say that this is a table, a ribbon saw, a planer, etc.

Whatever it was a heart, you can say for sure that the light workshop is a dust collector.

Most wooden boobs that you treat are hard enough to fall on the floor. But wood dust and sawdust fly in the air you breathe. These small particles easily penetrate your lungs and pose a serious threat to health.

There are many ways to protect yourself. Masks from dust (they are silent, but work well), inexpensive paper respirators (not very safe, but better than nothing). You can install the air filter on the ceiling (dust must first go through the level of your face before you get into it, so this is suitable for cleaning after work), and finally there are dust collectors that can be complex or simple (if you can To afford it, they are very good to a certain extent).

Regardless of whether your dust removal system is good, dust flies in the air, escaping from the system, especially if you are grinding or cutting anything. You need something easy to use, portable, and powerful enough to remove dust from tools. That is where the vacuum cleaner is useful.

The problem of purchased vacuum cleaners is that if you connect them directly to the tool, the filters will be lit for 10 minutes. Also, it is not easy to clean them, even if you increase the garbage collection container.
An alternative to this is the presence of an intermediate system between your instrument and vacuum cleaner, namely cyclone.

The cyclone dusting bucket collects 99% of dust, which accumulates at the bottom, leaving the vacuum cleaner almost free from dust and clean.

My homemade filter for the vacuum cleaner is very inexpensive and effective. The construction vacuum cleaner cost me less than 2,000 rubles, and it is easy to build on the weekend.

Step 1: List of materials and drawings

List of materials:

• 1 vacuum cleaner (1600 W +)
• 1 Plastic bucket of 20 liters
• 1 Metal (tin) bucket 20 liters
• 1 plastic funnel
• 1 PVC pipe length about 30 cm
• 2 couplings for pipe
• 1 Water fitting 90 degrees
• 4 nuts, bolts and washers
• 8 Samorezov
• high-speed epoxy glue
• some kind of primer
• 2 piece plywood 0x30x18 mm

Blueprints:
The above is the drawing that I was guided by designing a cyclone nozzle for a vacuum cleaner.

Step 2: Cyclone System

The cyclone system consists of two steps.

The first step is a plastic bucket with an upper lid, fittings and funnel. The second step is a metal bucket that is attached under plastic and collects dust and waste.

Two steps are connected to each other with standard clips that are included with buckets.

Step 3: First Stage - Top Cover

Before buying any fittings, be sure to check the end of the flexible hose of your vacuum cleaner and buy suitable in diameter (not all vacuum cleaners have hoses and ends of the same diameter).

Take the cover of the upper plastic bucket and make a hole in the center of the same diameter as your pipe (a long pipe will sit here, and one hole from the side of the cover (there will be an elbow fitting).

Insert the clutch into the first hole and creek - there will be a long tube (use PVC glue or epoxy). Make sure the pipe is perpendicular to the lid.

You will be able to trim the long tube, if necessary, after the first test, if dust will be in the vacuum cleaner, it will be necessary to drive it deeper to the wooden ring.

Insert the clutch into the side opening and glue. After the glue dries, insert a 90-degree elbow fitting into it so that the fitting is located in parallel with the walls of the plastic bucket. This will give a cyclonic circular effect on incoming dust. Make sure there are no leaks. If you feel holes, pour them with epoxy glue or silicone.

Additional modification:
If the plastic cover is too soft, like me, you can add two circles from the chipboard with a diameter of about 22 cm and a thickness of 6 mm to support. Wooden circles are located under the lid, and I pulled them with 4 bolts.

This gives me additional strength and advantage if I want to add two more 90-degree elbow fittings and insert longer PVC pipes to minimize the use of flexible hoses and improve air flow and drop pressure.

Step 4: First Stage - Funnel

Show more 4 images

To insert a funnel, you need to cut a wooden disk / ring from one of the pieces of wood. The wooden ring should enter the plastic bucket (the inner disk that will remain after cutting the ring, is used later).

The outer diameter of the disk should be such that the disk is tightly entering the bucket approximately halfway, and the inner diameter should be wide enough so that the funnel can sit in the ring. I cut the ring using an inverted jigsaw on my workbench, and then brought to the perfect circle using a grinding machine. Insert the ring in the bucket to check.

Do not make the following things until the second stage is completed!

After the second stage, I will put a wooden ring inside the plastic bucket (about the middle of the height or slightly deeper), so the end of the funnel will perform from the bucket hole. I screwed the wooden ring outside 8 screws.

In my version, I slightly cut the funnel, so that its end hole will not be too narrow (so the dust is easier to go down) about 4 cm in diameter, and then glued the pipe to secure the element.

Now get harder. I cleaned the edge of the funnel with the edge of the wooden ring, and then added
Primer to make a tilt to the center of the funnel, for better movement of dust down. Since I could not find a normal primer, I took the primer from polyester, which could stick to the tree and to the plastic. In addition to ugly color (black) and diluted dirt (use gloves), it works fine.

Note. If I do it again, I will use less hardener than an estimated value so that I have more time for molding and smoothing the surface, even if drying will take longer.
This filler from polyester gave me a surface that I covered a softer, white layer. A damp cloth, I managed to smooth the surface so that the dust flow into the funnel.

Another idea. I inform me that it is not easy to find a large funnel. There is a solution. You can go to any automotive accessories store and buy a street / road cone, and then trim it in size for your bucket. This will work too.

Step 5: Second Step - Bucket and Top Metal Cover

Plastic bucket should sit tightly over metallic. This is how we will do it. We will need 2 pieces of circular plywood or chipboard, which will support and combine plastic bucket with a metal bucket cover.

We cut out two disks about 4/5 diameter of the bottom of the plastic bucket (we already have one piece that remained after cutting the rings for a funnel, so you need to cut only one).

Accuracy here is not very important, so you can use a jigsaw or a saber saw. I used the jigsaw.
We will place the first circle on the bottom of the plastic bucket, and the second under the cover of the metal.

Since two disks have the same hole in the center, we need to do the same holes in the bottom of the plastic bucket and in the metal lid so that the funnel passed through them.

Press the first disc of the bottom of the plastic bucket, and the second on top on the metal cover and attract them with 4 bolts, nuts and washers. Now we can connect two buckets together.

Step 6: Final Assembly and Test Run

Now I can put the plastic bucket over the metal and fasten the shoulder clamp. Insert the flexible vacuum cleaner hose to the central connecting pipe, and the second hose (I found it in the old vacuum cleaner) in the side pipe, turn on the vacuum cleaner and give the cyclone to work. All dust descends into a metal bucket, leaving the vacuum cleaner clean.

Do not forget to wear a mask when you clean the bottom bucket. No need to breathe this dust.

Step 7: Supplement

Moving the cyclone and vacuum cleaner on the workshop is not very easy, so I think the cart on the rollers may be practical and useful.

The trolley design is very simple, and it can be built only from plywood. There is no size, because you have to adjust the dimensions for your dust collector.

I will only say that the base is made of two sheets of plywood, the top of which has a hole in which the bucket sits.

You can also add velcro to fix the vacuum cleaner and make two wooden handles on the plastic bucket so that it does not fall during the empty of the lower bucket.

An article about how I did homemade construction vacuum cleanerwith a "cyclone" type filter. Productivity of this useful homemade home You can evaluate looking at the video of his work.

To demonstrate the work gathered sand bucket. The result of the work done is generally satisfied (if you consider that it is so to speak the current prototype).

I will say right away: this article is the presentation of my history of creating my first (and how I think not the last) homemade vacuum cleanerAnd I do not intend to impose anyone in any way, to prove and assert that the solutions described here are the only correct and unmistakable. Therefore, I ask you to understand, so to speak "understand and forgive". I hope my little experience will be useful in the same way as I "sick" people who "the bad head of the hands of rest does not give" (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming repair and arising from this consequences in the form of dust, construction garbage, etc. And since it is necessary to stick, cut concrete and "perflect", then the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution for these problems. Buying a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and the design of them in most equals the filter (in some models, even with a special "shake") or a paper bag + filter that is clogged, worsens the craving, periodically requires replacement and also worth a lot of money. And just this topic is interested, and appeared so to speak "purely sports interest." In general, it was decided to make a vacuum cleaner cyclone. A lot of information was drawn here: forum.woodtools.ru Special calculations (for example, on Bill Penza) did not hold, made what he caught her arm and on his own alone. On the occasion, on the list of ads (for 1100 rubles) and at all next to my residence, such a vacuum was caught. I looked through the parameters, it seems to be satisfied - it will be a donor!

The cyclone body itself decided to make metallic, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls are laid under the influence of "sandwich" from the jet of sand and pieces of concrete. As well as about static electricity with friction of garbage about its wall, and did not want the future homemade vacuuming Metal sparks in their users. And personally, I think that the sticking of dust due to the static will not affect the operation of the cyclone.

The overall design of the vacuum cleaner is:

Polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles are settled in the lower gauge garbage collector. The rest passes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet nozzle outward. It was decided to make the nozzle and to the exit, and the size of the input and exit should be the same. This will allow the vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something. You can also make an additional hose to make the output of the "spent" air into the street, so as not to lift dust in the room (it comes to the idea to attach this unit as an "built-in" stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without informing the dust around (one hose blow, to another pull).

The air filter is selected "flat" not ring, so that when you turn off, the garbage fell there fell into the garbage collector. If we consider that only the dust remaining after the cyclone falls into the filter, its replacement will not be required soon as in a conventional construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. And at the price of such a filter (somewhere 130 rubles.) It is much cheaper than "branded", which are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with an ordinary household vacuum cleaner, connecting it to the inlet nozzle "Cyclone". In this case, garbage from the garbage collector will not be sucking. Fixing the filter is made collapsible to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

For the cyclone housing, a suitable rigid bank was found very, and the central nozzle was made from the plane from the mounting foam.

The inlet pipe is made with the calculation of a 50 mm plastic sewer pipe into which the hose inserted in the vacuum cleaner is quite tightly inserted with the corresponding rubber clutch.

The second end of the nozzle goes into a rectangle so to speak for "hidden" flow. Its width was selected by the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to be clogged. Approximate calculation: L \u003d (3.14 * 50 mm - 2 * 32) / 2 \u003d 46.5 mm. Those. Pipe section 32 * 46 mm.

Collected the whole design on a soldering with an acid and a 100 watt soldering iron (with the tin worked almost the first time, except for the soldering of boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

Plugged the central nozzle. The cone made the pre-fitted cardboard template-scan.

The housing for the autofilter is also made according to the patterns of galvanized.

The upper part of the duct tube arched in the form of a square and adjusted under it the bottom hole of the housing (pyramids) of the autofilter. Collected all together. On the sides of the banks of the cyclone made three guides to increase rigidity and fastenings. It turned out such a "gravitz".

For the garbage collector and the engine compartment used 2 barrels made of machine oil (60 liters). Velice, of course, but this is what managed to find. In the bottom of the engine compartment, the holes were made for fastening the cyclone, and on the surface of the adjunctness of the garbage collector for sealing around the perimeter pasted spongy rubber. After that, in the sidewall, the hole was cut for the inlet nozzle, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

Cyclone- "Gravitza" fucked with pins M10 and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing from vibration. Hereinafter, all the places where tightness is needed, articulated with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto-care.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage collector used latches from military wooden boxes (Special thanks to Igor Sanychu!). It was necessary to discharge them a little in the solvent and "adjust" with a hammer. Fucked rivets (with rubber gaskets from the camera).

After that, for consupporting stiffness and reduce noise, the entire design of the mounting foam was shot. You can, of course, fill all the top, but I decided to progress, suddenly the need to disassemble. In addition, it turned out everything is pretty hard and firmly.

For the convenience of moving and carrying the garbage collector attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the garbage barrel has a bottom of the slaughter, it was necessary to make the wheels to make an additional "bottom" from a plastic sheet with a thickness of 10 mm. In addition, it made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrels so as not to be "rushed" when the vacuum cleaner was working.

The base for fastening the filter funnel and the engine platform made from the chipboard with the fastening to the barrel around the perimeter of furniture "Eurovints". To fix the engine platform passed on epoxy of 8 bolts M10 (I think it would have been enough 4). Painted. On the perimeter of the installation site, the filter was punctured with spongy rubber.

When assembling the throat of the autofilter housing around the perimeter, the sealant was wrapped and pulled to the base with self-testers with a flat hat.

The engine platform made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform air distribution along the filter area, a 7 mm recess is chosen in the platform.

For the collection of outgoing air and fastening the engine, a plastic engine compartment is used in the vacuum cleaner. It is covered with "all unnecessary" and is incised on epoxy with increased screws of the outlet. All together is collected on sealant and with the help of a metal profile (thick spongy rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed in the platform and for tightness soaked with a thermoclaim. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing from vibration.

Thus, it turned out a removable engine module. For ease of access to autofilter, it is attached using eight barbell nuts. Increased washers are glued (Schaubs did not run away).

Made a hole for the outlet.

Painted all the "pepelats" in black color from the can, after reading the sandpaper and degreases.

Engine speed control used existing (see photo), adding it to a self-made scheme for automatic launch of the vacuum cleaner when the power tool is turned on.

Explanations according to the scheme of the homemade vacuum cleaner:

Machines (2x pole) QF1 and QF2 protect the chain respectively to connect the power tool (XS1 socket) and the circuit control circuit of the vacuum cleaner. When the tool is turned on, its load flows through the VD2-VD4 and VD5 diodes, they are selected according to the directory due to the large voltage drop on them with direct current. On a chain of three diodes with one (we call it "positive"), the half-wave current is created by a pulsating voltage drop which through the FU1 fuse, the Schottky diode VD1I resistor R2 charges the C1 condenser. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (by 16 volts) protect the control circuit from damage during overvoltage, which may occur, for example, when cutting (bump) in the VD2-VD4 diode chain. Schottky VD1 diode is chosen with a small voltage drop (in order to "save" the already small volts) and prevents the discharge of the C1 capacitor during the "negative" current of the current via the VD5 diode. The R2 resistor limits the C1 capacitor charge current. The voltage obtained on C1 opens the DA1 optron, the thyristor of which is included in the control circuit of the engine speed controller. A variable R4 resistor to control the engine speed is selected as the same nominal as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the device from the dimmer) to accommodate on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. To it, in parallel, the resistor R. is sold from the board. The switch S2 "On / Off" in the R4 resistor break serves to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 "Automatic / manual". In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current comes along a chain R4 (R) - S2 turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current comes along the R4 chain (R) -evodes 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tools due to the large capacity of the C1 condenser and the inertia of the engine, the vacuum cleaner continues to work about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remnants of the garbage from the hose inside the vacuum cleaner.

Automatic startup scheme is collected on a batch board. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (for placing a variable resistor R4) and the XS1 socket is selected from one not very expensive series so to speak for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the upper lid of the vacuum cleaner, peeled from the chipboard of 16 mm and the plated PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make isolated enclosures for boards to protect the parts under the stress from random touch.

For the nutrition of a vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation kg 3 * 2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with grounding contact are selected (do not forget about electrical safety and struggling with static electricity). Given the short-term intermittent mode of operation of the vacuum cleaner together with the power tool, the selected cable cross section is enough to not be warm. Thick cable (for example kg 3 * 4), more difficult and coarse, which would have created inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. From the device for the cable listening, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, it was decided to refuse, since the existing contacts would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and the power tool.

The top cover is fixed using a heel and a bachelor nut.

For ease of removing the top cover, the engine is connected to the control circuit diagram. The housing of the engine and vacuum cleaner is attached to the protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit in the outlet drilled a small hole to create a duct of the air inside the engine compartment housing.

In order for the garbage collector to insert a garbage package, the upper edge was saved drowned along the rubber seal for doors.

And so that the garbage bag does not sleep inside the cyclone due to air supply through looseness, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

Wind and testing of the received vacuum cleaner passed under the repairs started, so to speak in "combat" conditions. The thrust, of course, are at times more powerful than a domestic vacuum cleaner, which would not have enough for a couple of minutes working with construction garbage. A relatively heavy trash from concrete is almost completely precipitated in the garbage collector and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the thrust is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling the garbage collector. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, it is worse filtered by cyclone, which makes it takes periodically to clean the autofilter. The task of making dust-like was not put and therefore the test was not carried out on this function.

Conclusion and conclusions:

The resulting device in the end was operational and has already passed the inspection when repairing one room. Now I am considering it more like a valid layout from the series "Won't Other or No for Interest."

The main disadvantages of this design:

- Relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in the car, although the room on the wheels of the vacuum cleaner moves very easily. You can use liter barrels by 30 for example. As the operation showed, such a big garbage collector is uncomfortable for cleaning, and a bag with a large number of garbage can break.

- The diameter of the hose can be enlarged, for example, up to 50 mm and apply the hose from the industrial vacuum cleaner (but the issue of the price of 2000 rubles arises). Although with the hose, the garbage is going to be quite cheerful, unless of course try to draw half bricks.

- It is necessary to make an easy fixing attachment of an additional autofilter and engine, for more convenient and promptly maintenance and cleaning.

- The control circuit can be turned on to the control circuit (only to determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor sifting with light shallow dust, which can be solved by the introduction of the second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I want to thank all my friends who helped the ideas and materials in the construction of this "Pepelats". And a separate thanks to my beloved wife Julia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.

Dear visitors of the site "Visiting Samodelkin" from the master class presented by the author, you will learn how to make a filter "Cyclone" from old and unnecessary plastic buckets with your own hands. This type of filters was very loved by stoysters and furniture makers, because it is very easy to manufacture, and unpretentious in operation.
Each master person is engaged in or driving a joinery, is simply obliged to have a similar filter in his workshop.

Here and our author engaged in a carpentry business in order to not ingrow with sawdust and chips in his workshop, decided to contain his workplace clean, for which the cyclone made from the old plastic barrel and bucket, as well as a vacuum cleaner, which acts in this filter.

And so, let's look at carefully as the master collected a cyclone filter and what specifically it took for this?

Materials
1. Plastic barrels 25-30 l
2. Ledsp
3. Termoklay
4. PVC Truba
5. Silicone seal
6. Self-timber
7. Bolt.
8. Naka
9. Corrugated hose
10. Vacuum cleaner
11. Scotch
12. Isol

Instruments
1. Mill
2. Drill
3. Electrolovik
4. Festlovskaya Roulette
5. Thermopystoletole
6. Stationery Knife
7. Drill-crown 50 mm
8. Pencil
9. Screwdriver
10. Pliers

The process of creating a cyclone filter with your own hands.

And so, you should still figure it out, how does this miracle apparatus work? There is nothing difficult here, there are 2 tanks, one for the cyclone is different to collect garbage and sawdust (bunker) inside the first container is a cone which does not allow dust to rise up, as well as 2 tubes on the side of the side of the capacitance at an angle of 45 Degree, that is, during suction, dust and sawdust falling into the filter rushed into a twist along the wall of the tank, and the purified air is supplied along the straight pipe located at the top of the cover. So that it becomes more clear the author provided a shape of the filter operation, look.

And a simple drawing for the most visuality.

In general terms, the principle of operation of the cyclone filter is clearly understood, now it is necessary to go directly to the process of manufacturing the device.
As stated above, the master used 2-capacity plastic barrels with a volume of 25-30 liters, it will serve as a receiving bunker for sawdust, and 10 liters of bucket used for the cyclone, also from plastic. That's actually they are.

Further, the author began to make the covers for the buckets, because there were no relatives, and the plastic covers are incomplete. LDSP was used as a material. With the help of a fistulovsk roulette, the diameter of the bucket was measured and the radius is calculated, that is, the diameter is divided into 2 and the radius is obtained, the circle is applied to the board.

Sheeplies with an electroly bike, with a 2-3 mm pouch.

The resulting cover then it is necessary to cut on the milling machine, for which the author made a simple laminate device.

Processes the edges and creates a groove.

The groove is necessary in order for the lid to suit very tightly and tightly, because the filter does not in any case have to suck the air through any slots.

Everything came up perfectly.

The lid for the cyclone itself is cut on the same way.

The lid also approached very well.

After that, it is necessary to cut a large hole in the lid of the hopper, which connects the 2e containers to one unit.

On the inside of the lid you need to twist the landing groove under the installation of a bucket.

That's what it turns out.

Check, everything came up.

And from the drank bottom makes a cone, cut the sector and glued to PVC glue.

I pulled the clamps and left for drying, but in the end it turned out so that the glue did not glue and I had to redo it.

The boarding groove on the lid of the bunker is filled with a thermoclaim, but it is necessary to work with a post service, the master progressed and the bucket fell a little crookedly, because the glue has already become stuck.

Bucket installed.

Excess glue are cut with a stationery knife.

The silicone seal is also desirable to put on the thermocons, so that he did not fly in the process.

In the center of the lid, the hole is drilled with a drill.

In the resulting hole with a diameter of 50 mm, PVC pipes are inserted with a long 12 cm long, the planting space is also desirable to be treated with glue or sealant.

Installed and tightly.

At the bottom of the tube performs 5 cm.

Inserting the corner nozzle is 45 degrees.

Mashed to the wall of the bucket with a bolt and nut.

The location of the connection processes the thermoclaim (can be silicone sealant).

In the mechanical processing of various materials, a large amount of chips can be formed. With its removal manual way there are many difficulties. For a significant simplification of the procedure under consideration began to use special devices called chip covers. They can be found in specialized stores, the cost varies in a sufficiently large range, which is associated with the functionality, productivity and popularity of the brand. If desired, such equipment can be made with your own hands, for which it is enough to know varieties and principle of work.

Principle of operation

Cyclone type chips can only after determining the basic principles of work. The features can be attributed to the following moments:

1. A corrugated small cross section hose is connected to the main body, which concentrates and enhances the traction. On the tip there may be a different nozzle, it all depends on the specific task.
2. At the top of the design there is an engine that is directly related to the impeller. When rotating the air is discharged, due to which the required thrust is created.
3. When sucking the chips settles in a special capacity, and the air is displayed through a special nozzle on which a coarse filter is installed.
4. An even-purified filter is installed on the outlet nozzle, which delays small particles and dust.

In general, it can be said that the principle of operation of chiclon type chips is quite simple, due to which the design is characterized by reliability.

Types of chips

Almost all models of chips like cyclone are similar. In this case, the main mechanisms, for example, the engine or cyclone system may differ slightly, which determine the main classification. All bumps of the type of cyclone can be divided into several categories:

1. For domestic use.
2. Universal.
3. For professional use.

Choosing a model for a domestic workshop should be paid to two first equipment groups. This recommendation is associated with the fact that their cost must be relatively low, with performance will be enough.

With a frequent work with a workshop, a large amount of chips and with professional provision of workshop cleaning services and other premises, it is necessary to consider when choosing a cyclone type chips from a professional group. This is due to the fact that it is characterized by higher productivity and reliability, can withstand long-term use.

Cyclone type chips

Most models resemble a conventional vacuum cleaner, which due to severe traction sucks large and small chips. However, it is impossible to use even a powerful and high-quality vacuum cleaner for cleaning the workshop. The main structural elements can be called:

1. An electric motor of a flange type is installed, the power of which is only 3.5 kW.
2. For air discharge, a fan is installed with a solid and mechanical impact resistant to the impeller. It should be large enough to create a craving.
3. The cyclone is intended for cleaning the air that will be thrown out. Its device is designed to filter large elements.
4. The multistage filter significantly improves the efficiency of the procedure. This is due to the fact that at the initial stage there is a separation of large elements, after which small one is separated. Due to the multistage cleaning, you can significantly extend the life of the filter and increase its efficiency.
5. Lower cyclone is intended for direct chips.
6. The precast bag of durable material is designed for temporary storage of chips and other garbage, which were separated from the passing air flow.

Quality models have a hermetic case, which is trimmed with sound-absorbing panels. To control the chip-type type cyclone, an electric or mechanical block is placed, to connect a corrugated hose with a nozzle there should be a special hole.

The chips of the type of cyclone with their own hands is easy to make, as it is largely reminiscent of the usual vacuum cleaner with a large number of filtering elements and high power. The woodworking cyclone device is characterized by high reliability, subject to the instructions on the operation, the device is served long time.

Construction features

In most cases, when the cyclone type sharewp is installed, a small and medium performance engine is installed, which can be powered by a standard 220V network.

More powerful aggregates are supplied with three-phase engines, with the nutrition of which there are quite a few difficulties in domestic conditions.

Among the design features, it should be noted that the impeller is installed to ensure a spiral twist of the air flow. In this case, heavy particles are reset into a special container, after which the centrifugal force raises the air again to remove it.

Preparatory work

In the manufacture of the design, you can significantly save, but some mechanisms still do not assemble. An example can be called the most suitable engine and impeller. The following actions include the preparatory stage:

1. Formation of an action plan for improving equipment.
2. Search for a suitable electric motor, checking its status.
3. Selection of other mechanisms that cannot be made with your own hands.

In a carpentry workshop, much, which is required to create chickel chips, can be made with your own hands.

Instruments

Depending on the selected scheme, a variety of tools may be required. The easiest is the outer body made of wood. Other elements will be connected to it. The recommended toolkit is as follows:

1. Indicator and multimeter.
2. The chisel and other tools for working with wood.
3. Screwdriver and various screwdrivers, hammer.

The simplicity of design determines that it can be made in the presence of the most common tools.

Materials and fasteners

The generated instrument must be easy and sealed, as well as to withstand the pressure exerted during air swing. For its manufacture, you will need:

1. The case can be collected from plywood, the thickness of which is about 4 mm. Due to this design will be durable and easy.
2. For the manufacture of other parts, the bars of wood of various thicknesses will also be required.
3. Polycarbonate.
4. The filter can be taken from the injectory VAZ. A similar filter is cheap, will last for quite a long time.
5. The engine can be removed from the old powerful vacuum cleaner, the impeller will be attached on the output shaft.
6. To connect the main elements, screws, self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts, as well as sealant.

After finding all the necessary, you can proceed to work.

Production of a cyclone filter

As previously noted, it is difficult to make a filter, it is best to get a cheap already ready version of execution. However, it will also need a landing hermetic place.

The seating is also made of wood. In this case, the main thing is to choose the right diameter of the discharge hole, as too small will lead to a reduction in bandwidth. It is not necessary to fix the filter, it is enough to create a block for it, which will be perfectly approached by its size.

Creating a locking rings and curly insert

To fix polycarbonate in the manufacture of the housing, wooden rings are required. They must have an inner diameter that provides the required amount of accumulative tank. Between the two locking rings will be located vertical strips, holding sheets of polycarbonate.

Make such rings in the home workshop can be provided with appropriate skills and equipment. At the same time, do not forget that they should have high strength.

Installation of a fixing ring

The assembly of the housing can be started with the placement of fixing wheels and polycarbonate sheets. Among the features of this stage, the following points can be noted:

1. Sheets are fixed on both sides by the planks.
2. The connection is carried out using self-samples.
3. To increase sealing in the lower and upper ring, slots are created for sheets, after the installation of which the seams are sealed.

After assembling the case, you can proceed to the installation of other structural elements.

Installing lateral pipe

In order to eliminate the likelihood of the construct break due to the clogging of the filter element, the side nozzle with the safety valve is installed. To do this, a hole is created in the polycarbonate sheet, which, from both sides, is closed by the body of the safety nozzle.

There should be a rubber gasket between the wooden planks and the wall, it is possible to increase the degree of seal by using the sealant. Fixed an element on the housing using bolts and nuts.

Installing upper input

Suction chips and air takes place from the top of the design. To accommodate the upper input, a small housing is created, in which the nozzle from the old vacuum cleaner is placed.

When using a special nozzle, a reliable fixation of the suction hose is ensured, which, moreover, can be quickly removed if necessary. That is why it is not worth making it yourself.

Installation of figured insert

Figured insert is also required to connect the inlet nozzle. It must be located so that the air with particles come without difficulty.

As a rule, there is a curly rate opposite the fan, at the expense of which the air flow is carried out. The seams are best treated with sealant, which will increase the degree of isolation of the structure.

Build a cyclone filter

After creating the case to place the filter, it must be installed in its place. It should be borne in mind that inside the electronic elements will also be located, providing the power of the electric motor.

From the outer part of the cyclone filter case, another pipe is given. It will be required to drive airflow.

Principles of chipping and basic manufacturers

The production of cyclone chips is a rather large number of different companies. The principle of operation of the device does not differ, only the power and reliability of the structure increases.

The chips of the type of cyclone foreign brands is greater popularity, domestic are cheaper, but they serve much less.