This type of fire is also called Finnish or Taean candleallows you to use only one full or chorbach for multiple cooking or heating food In hiking conditions. Extremely economical and effective in terms of fuel consumption.

The most important thing to find a dry log and sprinkle a smooth piece from it is a long halfer. It is better that it was at least 12 cm in diameter, and maximum - 30.

If using candle It is planned for cooking, it is better to take short, but thick billets. Then it will be possible to put the dishes directly on the candle, and it will be steadily standing on the ground.

If the lighting is important, then it is better to take the workpiece is authentic and fond. And if heating is required, you need to take a thick and long blank. Such a candle can burn for many hours.

Preferably without bitch, whatever it could be split enough.

The tree variety does not matter much, but it should be remembered that resinous trees - "shoot" and give a lot of sparks. Use the candle from the Christmas tree and pine is not recommended for heating. Birch is burning hot and does not shoot, but she has a strong flame and need to be careful. In addition, in the birch kore, a lot of tar and flame smoke a little smoking, especially at the end of the burning. Almost the perfect candle is obtained from well dried aspen. It burns extremely smoothly, light and colorless flame.

In any case, it is good to use a dry (but not a rot). Otherwise, the candle or its workpiece will have to dry for a long time.

• We split the ax is covered along four (or 8, if it is very thick) parts, preferably the same.
• Cut from each part of the middle. Little and gradually. Construct.
• We fold the split parts of the clip together, leaving the slot into a couple of centimeters. If there is a wire, then you can associate them. But not tight.
• In the center is full, lay a little birch bark and what was taken out of the middle. Gilt. Well helps liquid for inciting coal.
• After the candle breaks up, a small crater is formed in the center of her star - the burning zone, a kind of firebox. In it, by the way, as in Samovar, you can put additional fuel - charcoal, chips, small bumps, etc. This significantly prolongs the life of the candle.
  The magnitude of the flame and burning is easily adjustable by shifting and spreading quarters (or octoral) is full, but this is if the wire screed has not been used.
• After the crater formed a steady burning zone, you can start cooking. As can be seen, the combustion zone itself is very not significant and is located strictly under the utensil. No special supports, suspension and backups are required for dishes. It is simply put on a candle, as an ordinary gas burner, for example, or primus. Flame only occasionally breaks through the propelles. The pot on such a burner boils literally in minutes.
• After cooking, the candle is quenched. And subsequently can be used repeatedly. One such candle will allow you to cook in the campaign set many times.

In principle, these Finnish (Indiesian, Tayzhny) candles There are many variations - for example, logs do not split into parts, and 4 ~ 8 longitudinal duties are not up to the end of the log.

The simplest option is indicated here.

Finnish candle in work

The Finnish Candle is the most common name of several bonfire designs, divorced inside the specially trained or between several combined lanes standing vertically.

The design of the Finnish candle allows you to ignite a full-fledged bonfire with the least amount of fuel, in some cases bypassing only one polen. In addition, such candles are well tolerated windy weather, and some of them are precipitated when using dishes, closing the burning center.

All options for Finnish candles are designed to prepare food and illuminate the territory, and some of them are also used for heating and drying things.

This type of fire is economical, compact, convenient in transportation, its design can be built in advance, compared with many other types of fires, he leaves only a minor fire on earth, and in some embodiments does not leave him at all.

Being invented in the 30s of the last century by a Finnish citizen, Finnish candle was widely known among hunters, tourists and other lovers of outdoor activities in nature and is actively used to this day.

There are many names about her popularity, which is called this bonfire. Among them: Bonfire, Forest Candle, Hunting Candle, Indian Candle, Indian Torch, Swedish Candle, Swedish Fire, Scandinavian Candle, Taiga Candle, Canadian Candle, Roman Candle, Wooden Primus, Woody Primus, Village, Vertical Bonfire from Churbaks.

Options of Finnish Canda

The popularity of the fire could not leave the Finnish candle unchanged. As you use an increasing number of people, the fire was divorced with those or other constructive changes and additions, in different conditions. And if the classic bonfire was two halves of a split ax, put on the other to the other, the modern designs differ not only by the structure, but also the amount of full of lane.

I know the following forest candle options:

• The classic version of the split complete is full. This option consists of two halves of one PLAN, supplied by slice surfaces to each other. Between the halves, the fire is linked. This option is easy to manufacture, burns relatively long and requires the presence of only one. The space on the sides of the fire, where the gap between the halves is located, can be used for heating or drying things.
  
• The split into four parts is full. This option is similar to the previous one, but instead of two halves in this fire, four quarters are burning alone. Due to the greater surface of the burning of such a fire burns more intensively, but not so long. Due to the larger number of cracks covered by fire, almost from any side of the fire can be dried things or heated. However, such a torch is less stable and quickly falls apart during the burning of the Churbaks.

  

  Swedish candle of four pieces of lane.

• The split is full, fastened with wire. This option is similar to the previous one, but all parts are closed with a wire. The bonfire burns less intensively, but longer. Thanks to the almost complete absence of heat on the sides of the campfire (with a dense connection of the parts of the part), it can be freely transferred from place to place, but for the same reason this option cannot perform the role of an effective heater. Also to the lack of this fire can be attributed to the need to bind quantities of the Quarter, because the wire does not always be at hand. Yes, and toggle such a bonfire at the newcomer does not always turn out from the first attempt.
  
• Pulled with longitudinal propuls. Here, inside the thick is usually done from two to four longitudinal cutting to the depth 2/3 or 3/4 of the length of the length. These feeders serve to enter oxygen to the burning center and are at the same time these focus. This version of the furnace is compact, convenient for transportation and can be recommended for organizing a fire in the presence of chainsaws. Without chainsaws, the construction of such a Swedish candle is inappropriate, although, of course, the propelles can be made and a regular saw. This is a one-time view of the forest candle, as it is for a while to globe if necessary, if it turns out, with difficulty. As this furnace is burning, first of all burns the middle at the top, the distance between the burning surfaces increases - and the bonfire goes into the tension mode. It is not always convenient for cooking, but for heating it is quite suitable, especially since the slots emitting heat become much bigger than during the ignition of the campfire. Among other things, this bonfire can be moved to a new place even in the process of burning and, unlike most other options for the Swedish candle, does not leave the fire in the land, unless the upper part does not fall into the soil. However, the incitement of this fire without oil, gasoline and other combustible liquids requires some skills and for a beginner may be problematic.

When using chainsaws, such a fire is obtained not only sustainable, but also beautiful.

Compactness and simplicity of this type of forest furnace made it very popular. On the Internet on different sites there are ads offering wholesale and retail to buy such a wooden primus, and on YouTube - a lot of videos for its manufacture and use. However, as for me, this torch is not quite suitable for a hiking tourist and especially for the one who fell into an emergency in the wild natural environment, due to the complexity of the manufacture of the described design without proper tools. This option is not for the person who survives in nature, who needs to make a fire with her own hands, but for a tourist traveling to the nature of rest with all the necessary equipment.

These are the basic four ways to create a candlestone, but there are other options:

The classic version of the split overnight is full of pleasure in the presence of a twig, which is necessary from time to time to boost into the fire, and a thick log. It is simple and can be recommended for cooking and boiling water under survival conditions in the presence of a saw and ax.

The split into four parts of the Polelin can be recommended for a short-term illumination of the territory in those situations in which the classic option is manufactured, but if it is necessary to warm the group consisting more than two people. However, if the fire is divorced precisely to warming the group, it is better to use one of the taiga options, for example, nodeh.

The split is complete, bonded with wire, appropriate in situations requiring cooking or illumination without the need for heating. Of course, it is used only when there is a wire or other material that allows you to securely brave all parts of it.

Pulled with longitudinal propuls is done in the presence of chainsaws and sufficient gasoline. It is also convenient to use it if there are pre-prepared chumbs in case of picnic, fishing and other outdoor activities.

It is covered with two holes, like a candle with propyl, convenient for use in nature in a predetermined form in a warm and rainy season.

Three Polane, set nearby, as for me, along with the classic are one of the best options for Finnish candles in emergency survival. But in contrast to the classic, this option requires the use of loss of less thickness, which means the most appropriate in the presence of a saw and absence of an ax.

Classic version of the split bog

For a classic option, it is possible to use with a diameter of 20-30 cm. The height of the PLAN must be twice as much as the diameter. It is this ratio of diameter and height that is most appropriate for stability and uniform burning not only the classical option, but also other types of candles.

It is clearly splitting in half, and one part should be thicker than another. From the thicker part chips chips for the extracts and crushed it for faster ignition. Both parts of the logs are installed at a short distance one from the other cuts facing each other. For stability, they can be pounded with sticks or stones. In the middle puts the extract. The extract is set on fire, after which the fire gradually enters the operating mode.

The photo shows the beginning of the manufacture of such a fire:

When on both parts, the calcined coals were formed in sufficient quantities, this Finnish candle could burn without tossing in the middle of an additional twig. To do this, it is enough to adjust the gap between parts of the full: too close arrangement will reduce the inflow of oxygen to the burning area - the fire will go into the radiation mode, and too far - will not give the coals to heat each other before the appearance of fire, and the fire will go out.

If necessary, cooking dishes with food is put on the ends of both parts. Additional tricks, as in some cases, will be told a little later, in this case is not required. What it looks like, you can look at the photo or in the video.

If the bonfire is temporarily not needed, parts of the full one from the other - and the bonfire goes into the glowing mode, and through time it finally goes out.

Split into four parts log

This Finnish candle is prepared, incites and stewed by analogy with the previous option, only in this case it is linked to four identical parts.

If there is a good extract, such a bonfire is relatively simple.

The extractor for this candle is collected separately either cut out of the core of another split on the part of the part, where it is usually dry even after long rains.

For cooking, dishes put directly on the top end of the split-up.

Split wired

For this Finnish candle, the compound is clearly split into four equal parts. All parts are labeled outside the knife so that after you could collect all parts of the Poleno with the smallest gaps between them. Each of the parts obtained is cut off the angle, which in the lip lay down to the core. Educated chips are used as a cross.

Lening core is usually thinner than outer fabrics, and therefore the extroduction of it is becoming easier. Photo Survival.com.ua

Also for future ventilation can be cut off at the angle of the lower edges of the parts of the Polen.

All parts are fully connected in accordance with the marks on them and form a cylindrical design with a square hole in the middle and triangular gaps at the bottom (unless of course they were cut), which are connected to the central hole.

The central hole formed after the core is notching will perform the role of the hearth.

In this position, it is closed with wire. A small wand is encouraged under the wire and spinning until the wire reliably captures all parts of it. As it looks like this, shown in the photo:

If no lower gaps have been provided for ventilation, this option of the Finnish candle can be installed on a small groove so that fresh air can freely penetrate the central hole where the fire will burn.

At the top of this candle, a small bonfire is divorced, the corners of which are falling into the hole and gradually burn the entire design.

According to some unverified data, such a candle can be loosen including from below, if the hole is loosened to the hole to be loosened so as to provide air free passage. Whatever it was, this version of the candlestone remains one of the most uncomfortable in incitement.

For cooking on such a candle under the dishes, three or four small identical flat pebbles are put or parallel to two green sticks. Sometimes instead, 3-4 nails are driven into the upper end in such a way that they rise above the wood. It is necessary that gases that are distinguished by burning can freely go out through the upper hole and not to prevent the intake of fresh air to burning coals. If this is not done, the dishes will close the upper hole, and the fire can go out.

Logitally

In the manufacture of this version of the taiga candle, the chainsaw is most often used.

In Churbak, it is usually done from two to four longitudinal propils, driving deep into 2/3, and sometimes 3/4 of its length. Although, if it is supposed to do a torch, then on a long straight log, the propelles are made only in the upper part. All - Finnish candle is ready.

Today, the production of blanks under Finnish candles is delivered to the stream due to their high demand for their tourists and holidaymakers.

Obtain such a candle most often using alcohol, gasoline, machine or sunflower oil, or other fuel liquid. To do this, the center of the candle is poured a small amount of said liquid and, removing the container with this fluid to a safe distance, the bonfire is ignited.

Attention!

Pour gasoline, alcohol and other flammable substances in the already burning or smoldering fire is prohibited! Failure to comply with this rule can lead to burns and explosion of tank with fuel liquid.

For cooking, dishes put directly on the top flat surface of the candle.

It is usually extinguished by such a candle with water, after which it needs drying to recycle.

Breed with two holes

For this candle, it is put on the end. In the center to a depth of 3/4 of the height, a hydrophole is carried out with a drill.

After it is crawled onto the side and the second hole is drilled in it, which must be connected to the "bottom" first. Thus, it turns out to be covered with L-shaped tunnel. The residual chips from the tunnel is removed.

There is such a candle in two ways: from above, or below.

For inciting from above, a small bonfire is divorced on the operating end of the candle, the corners of which, falling into the hole, lead to the ignition of the vertical tunnel along the entire length of the design.

For inciting from the bottom to the upper hole, the flammable liquid is dripping, and the fire is brought on the rauchin from the side of the side opening.

The photo shows the already broken candle:

If there is a tool, such a candle can be made of stumps, which is difficult to use as fuel in a regular bonfire. An example is shown in the photo:

As the option with a wire, such a candle is incorporated with great difficulty compared to the same classic Finnish candle.

Under the dishes in this embodiment, it is necessary to put stones or wands so that the bottom of the dishes does not cover the outlet.

Such a candle with overlapping two holes at the same time.

Three logs set nearby

For the manufacture of this candle, three are poured three in height. At each of the three lanes on the one hand, the bark is removed and shallow notches, damaging fibers of wood are made.

Length is put horizontally one near the other so that the purified sides are located as close as possible to each other and were directed upwards. In the lamps, the extracts are stacked and the fire is divorced.

When part of the lane, located under the bonfire, is charred and starts to actively smooth, the lamps are put on the end and pressing the smoldering parts to each other. The gap between the lamps is filled with coal from the burnt twig and the twig. After this Finnish candle enters the operating mode, the need for additional fuel disappears the need: the coals of the lane are warm each other, due to which a steady flame appears in the construction center.

An example of a candle of three lanes, no bonded with each other.

The dishes are installed on top without additional tricks, since the slots between the lamps are enough to lead the burnt gases from the burning center.

If the lamps differ slightly in length and for this reason do not allow to install the dishes on top of them, small recesses are made in the ground for larger length. Thus, when installing the campfire of the top of the flights align and allow you to install dishes without any problems.

In order to put out such a bonfire, it is necessary to simply push the lamps one from the other.

Advantages and disadvantages

Finnish candle, like other fires has a number of advantages and disadvantages. And in view of the fact that there are many options for this fire, we will list only those that are characteristic of most of them.

The advantages of such a fire can be attributed to:

• Efficiency. For taiga candle, it is often enough just one small lounge, you can make a stove with your own hands or buy in a specialized store.
• Compactness. The workpiece for this fire is convenient to transport in the car or put under the awning, being in nature.
• Safety. Some options allow you to use fire even on peatlands. Nevertheless, in the absence of acute necessity, one should not once again risk, and the fire is better breed away from the peatlar.
• Mobility. Some options for the Swedish candle can easily be transferred to significant distances even during burning.
• Ecology and secrecy. Some variants of the Indian Candle do not leave traces of burning on the ground.
• Insensitivity to weather conditions. Almost all bonfires are resistant to strong wind and precipitation when using dishes that can be covered with burning.
• The ability to "put me" the fire. Some options for taiga candle, being buried and stored in a closed place, allow, without any particular difficulties, the flame is re-described when necessary. Often for this you need only one spark carved by a flock of silica on a knife of high carbon steel, or sun rays concentrated to the point with the help of a lens.

• The need for tools. Without a saw or ax, make a Finnish candle will be problematic.
• The need for a solid trunk of a certain thickness. Not in any terrain can be found suitable for the focus of the dry diameter. For example, in the tundra, in the field or steppe such raw materials may not be.
• Insolvency of the candlestone, like a heater. Finnish candle often gives less heat compared with the more famous types of fires, for example, "Chalash" or "Well".
• The possibility of installation over Indian candles is only one dishes. Prepare food or boil the water at the same time in several large Casans is unlikely to succeed because of the small working surface of the candlestone.

Since the chainsaw of the survival is usually absent, such a version of the candle for survival goals is bad.

It is useful to navigate this information when the conditions in which the fire will be divorced and the tasks that need to be solved with it.

Security measures

Despite the "accuracy of the taiga candle with burning, as well as with any other fire, when it is used, safety safety is necessary.

So, the place under the forest candle is chosen away from dry trees and thickets of dry cane. The place is cleaned by dry leaves and grass, coniferous needles and cones, the word, everything that can serve as the proliferation of fire.

When using combustible liquids to ignite the Finnish candle, the canisters with these liquids must be removed on a safe distance.

In order for the pre-harvested candle, it is not sealed from precipitation, it can be put on a tent tent or cover with a piece of polyethylene, pressed its edges to the ground with stones. If the messenger rain went during the burning of this campfire, the candle will protect the dishes in which the food is preparing.

From the above, it can be concluded that Finnish candles are good for cooking and illumination of the territory, and in some cases - and heating. These bonfires can be recommended for a group of several people in the forest area with a shortage of dry and in the presence of tools for its processing.

Interesting video: how to make a Finnish candle in wildlife

Anyone who loves rest in nature (especially not a picnic, and active - hunting, fishing, hiking), knows how relevant a proper bonfire is correct. If you do not drag the brazier, you need to worry about security, so as not to run away from the forest fire and do not feel the criminal. And he to ignite the fire in the snow, and so as not to Gus every minute, and at all the vertex of the skill of the fire. However, experienced travelers know how to build a hearth with the observance of fire safety, so that he burned for a long time, not the tuh even in slush and did not require regular feeding. It is called everyone in different ways: the Finnish candle, the taiga candle, Indian or Swedish, but the essence remains unchanged. There is even a few ways to make it easily.

Maxi-bonfire

The most successful Finnish candle is obtained if you "landed" not far from sawn logs. No effort will be required: pick three sleeves of approximately the same height and diameter, put in a circle to the screen and incite in the middle of the fire. To bonfire burned smoothly and the rooting was the same in all directions, it is required to competently choose a scrabble in height. The Finnish candle holds the longest, the lamps should be long in two diameters. The power of such a fire is enough for a five-liter boiler for a third in one third, and it is not necessary to even hang it - it will rely on the logs themselves. As you burn, the chumbachs as it were for shalashik. If the Bonfire "Finnish Candle" needs you for a long time, at this stage you can support it as the most ordinary, lining of firewood.

If there is benzaw

In the absence of the need for a large focus and the presence of an appropriate tool in the hands of the appropriate tool. A piece of a thick log is taken to half a meter long and will be cut down (not to the end, somewhere on three quarters of the segment). If the diameter of the sleeve is large, you can work chainsaw a little more to get eight "poles". More propilov should not be made, because the already the sector, the faster your Finnish candle will be prohibiting. The log is firmly fixed on the ground (it is possible to peel or leaving the stones), the extracts are laid inside (from its own sawdust, or simply liquid ignition) - and several hours of fire at your service.

Field method

Suppose there are no saws, but I need Finnish it in this case? Well, there is an ax in nature in any case. The chorbak closed for this goal is to ourselves, as on ordinary firewood, only slightly prigidize so that the lamps are not too different in thickness. Then they are going to the original log, only around a thick branch - it will be a hearth. Below, closer to Earth, and approximately in the middle of the Finnish candle is dragging, preferably wire - she definitely does not fall. But if it is not, the twine, and a fishing line, and flexible rods are suitable. Especially reliably you need to pull down at the bottom, because in the middle of the lamps will run faster, and without good fixation near the soil your fire will fall apart. The central twig of three-quarters is pulled out from below and drank, after which the Finnish candle is put on the ground. By the way, if the source chumbach is not too massive, you can use this branch as a leg and just stick to the ground.

Manual candle

If there is no nearby (or a suitable dry object for spill, or saws and even a normal ax), then Finnish is somewhat different. There are quite thick porshi in the district, at least centimeters in five diameters, and they are collected in a bundle again around the center branch. The side of the jelia that will be inside, you need to lie a little a knife - it will be better. The remaining manipulations - as when creating "Ficks" from the lane.

Candle Primus

It is used precisely as a stove for cooking. Highlights - as in the manufacture of a campfire with a field in a field. Nuances two:

1. The initial log must be partially retired from the inside. Alternatively, you can not greet the core, but split it on the haul and clean them already. Such a bonfire is assembled on the snow in the same way, around the branch, but the cavity inside must be made artificially, and the outer walls are closed whenever possible without cracks.
2. From two opposite sides of the lamps or less trimmed, or stronger put forward upwards, centimeters for five or six. Due to such a design in the center, the fire will bloom with air, and its languages \u200b\u200bwill be directed primarily upwards.

For heating, such a Finnish candle is not suitable - the fire is all focused inside. But the food is preparing much faster.

What can the Finnish Candle come in handy?

In addition to cooking and heating (except for "primus") such a fire is simply indispensable as a lighthouse. Experienced fishermen walking on the evening dawn, leave on the shore as a signal for rapidly - in the dark it can be seen from afar.

It is very convenient when using the Finnish candles and the fact that almost to complete exercise you can easily move from place to place. A considerable plus can be considered the long-term fire: medium sized chumbach gives the light and the heat of four. A maxi-bonfire without additional fuel can perform their functions all night.

If you are not a fan of "wild" tourism and fishing, but love to celebrate the New Year at the cottage, Finnish candles placed along the tracks will bring romance and decorate the garden is not worse than the garlands and Chinese lanterns.

"In the campaign or travel" Dickarem ", on a picnic or fishing, there is a task of cooking hot food. Someone breeds the sizes of the biremecover, someone drags a primus or dry fuel.

I want to introduce you to one old way, more precisely by the device with which you can and cook food, heating or shine the road. According to the legend, it was borrowed from the North American Indians with Colonizers of Christopher Columbus. In view of this, the name "Indian Candle" received.

The principle of an Indian candle is very simple. As in the samovar, the combustion occurs in the furnace, and the thrust provides a pipe. Single mini pepper. But in the Indian candle, the role and fireboxes and pipe performs the fuel itself - a tree, hollow in the middle. The inner walls of the very poleno are burning.
In my tourist experience, I can declare without fear that the Indian Candle is one of the most effective and cheap hot food cooking methods.

Make an Indian candle can anyone in a few minutes.

For its manufacture, it is necessary to borrow any log, with a diameter of 10 cm and more. Up to 30-40 cm. It is necessary without bitch, whatever it could be split enough. The tree view does not matter much, but it is necessary to memorize that resinous trees - "shoot" and give a number of sparks. Operate the candle from the Christmas tree and pine is not recommended for heating. Birch is burning hot and does not shoot, but her fire is strong and need to be careful. In addition, in the birch bark excess tar and fire slightly smoking, especially at the end of the burning. In fact, the perfect candle comes out of a well-dried aspen. It burns extremely smoothly, light and colorless flame.

In any case, it is not bad to exploit the dryer (but not a rot). Otherwise, the candle or its workpiece will have to dry continuously.

So, out of the logs, cut out the blank of 15-40 cm long. When using the candle is planned for cooking, it is easier to take short, but thick blanks. Here you can install the dishes directly on the candle, and it will be firmly standing on the ground. If the lighting is important, then it is better to take the workpiece is authentic and fond. What would be comfortable to wear it. And when it is necessary to heating, it is necessary to take a thick and long billet. Such a candle can burn for many hours.

1. The tree is split along approximately in the middle. Just because it is of great importance to use a piece of log without bitch. They are very difficult to split. In case you get a sticky tree - this is generally the best option! This is a ready Indian candle, it is enough for it simply to fill on a piece of 20-30 cm long and scolding the fired inside of the hollow.

With the help of the toporist, the core of the tree is cut down so that after the channel was formed with a diameter of 5-7 cm.

2. Both halves are re-folded and fasten between them in any way. Let's say, with wire, sticky ribbon, nails, glue ... So we got a wooden pipe. It is important to guarantee the minimality of the gaps at the sink connections. Otherwise, right by sim slit candle will progrit.

3. To burn the candle in the pipe, a little birch bark (Berriests) are stuffed. At the same time, it is followed that the unoccupied air access on the pipe would not be blocked, and it will not be thrust. When there are no BERESS, you can use for your own purposes with several messengers. The candle itself is set so that its lower end had a small lumen for air intake. For example, on stones or a couple of lane.

4. Beresto ignites and pushing the tube in the middle of her middle. If it will be in the top of the pipe, the candle will burn lasting, but a weak flame. Such mode will be for heating or warming a minor food. And if to promote Beresto to about the bottom (or to light the candle at the bottom), the candle burns faster, but the fire will be strong. Such mode will be for cooking or lighting.

5. When burning candles, the flame stream is quite simple to set up air access overlapping at the bottom of the candle (say, earth or snow). For cooking, the flame is sufficient at 10-15 cm.

6. The candle can be used as a torch. The tree is a brilliant heat insulator and even if the hot candle can even be free to keep with your hand, lighting the road or put decently torches for illuminating the camp of tourists.

7. For heating of food, maintaining it in a hot condition or for heating it is important to be able to translate the candle to the intensive heating mode. In this case, the candle is smoldering from the inside almost without flame. In this case, it turns out enough hot smoke. This is achieved by overlapping air access to the bottom of the candle.

8. For heating, let's say, can be canned cans even in winter, you need a total of a few minutes. Enough to install the jar on the candle so that there remains a small lumen for the exit of smoke. If it is necessary to prepare food in a saucepan, it is put on a pair of pinch - pads, like a gas stove on the burner. When there is a bowler, it is simply suspended above the candle at an altitude of 5-10 cm.

Sometimes for air access and for the release of gases, they simply make the corresponding cuts on the ends of the candle. But this is perhaps only in a decay with a diameter of 20-25 cm and more. High and thin candles are not stable and do not need to risk.

When using a candle as a heater in a tent, you need to take care of the burning of combustion products.

And absolutely correct heating looks approximately so. The burning candle is left outside. A short metal pipe is suspended above it. A higher end pipe is inserted into the tent. The candle heats the pipe and, accordingly, the air in it, which enters the tent. Thus, the tent is heated with hot, but fresh clean air, and not smoke.

Once the candle is not necessary to survive to the end, before her death. As soon as the food is cooked, the candle is quenched by overlapping air access as at the bottom and on top. Let's say, by closing with some non-flammable item can be the cover of the bowler or a wet cloth embroider. Thus, with the help of one Indian candle, you can cook food several times.

Undoubtedly, such a candle is much harder to primus or dry fuel package. But dry fuel is quite expensive. And unlike the preims, it is necessary to drag in both ends of the trip, as well as bother with smelly kanishly combustible for him, the candle has a ticket one-way. She dies, providing us with hot food, warm and light.

But with automotive or other motorized travels on wild, and especially flavored and mountainous places - the candle will serve you faithfully. Spend a little time on its manufacture and you will always be fed and warmed. " copyPaster from one tourist site, in which Google Chrome found malicious programs and does not recommend entering there ..

The process of manufacturing an Indian candle, which will help you survive under wildlife.

This device, with the help of which you can cook food, and heated or illuminate the road, was seen by the legend and mutually enjoyed at the North American Indians with Colonizers of Christopher Columbus. That is why it got the name "Indian Candle", and now it is also called - "Wooden Primus", "Swedish fire", "Finnish candle", etc.

Such as in the photo, a diameter of 8 cm and a length of 10 cm, is manufactured within 15-20 minutes, "works" within 30-35 minutes and as a result of a good efficiency allows you to boil up to 2.5 liters of water. And in general, in such small sizes, this product is controversial and "on an amateur".

Much more efficiently "candles" with a diameter of 12 cm with a length of 18 cm. However, in this case, the dimensions were selected based on the fact that there was only a Victorinox Outrider knife, to do something more it would be possible, but somewhat difficult.

The tree of the tree from which this "Wooden Primus" does not matter does not matter, but it should be remembered that such as spruce or pine "shoot" and give a lot of sparks, so it is not entirely convenient to use such a "candle" for heating. Birch is burning well and hot, not "shoots", but she has a little smoking, especially at the end of the burning.

The dry aspen is most suitable, which burns smooth and colorless flame. In any case, in the manufacture of the "Indian Candle", it is necessary to use if possible, as dry, but not a rotten tree.

The external proportions of the "Candles" depend on the intended use - for example, for cooking the most short, but thick, for lighting - the long and thin, so that it was comfortable to wear, but for heating - thick and long, it will burn a few hours.

The process of manufacturing a "wooden primus" is very simple. We cut the workpiece of the desired length.
We split round in half and then half once again in half. I would like to notice that it is not necessary to split the workpiece into four parts at all, the smaller the slits are the same later, it is precisely for these sluts "Candle" to progrit, however cutting the core from different halves of the workpiece more tediously and more difficult than cutting the corners of Quarters.

Cut the core and make notches to get like this.

Firmly connect the wired quarter, seeking as much as possible fitting them to each other, and stuff with small pieces of barks, lady or remaining from planing sawdust so that it is not blocked by the free passage of air through the channel, otherwise there will be no traction. If there is an opportunity, then the "candle" should be installed on stones or haul so that its lower end has a small gap for air access. If not, it should be cut in advance at the bottom of the workpiece a small side duct.



Ignite, it should be borne in mind that if the main focus focus on the top of the Candle Channel, then it will burn for a long time, but a weak flame, and if you have a "candle" from below, it will burn faster, but the flame will be strong. The process of burning requires some skills and practices, every time it will be faster.
ilua Flame "Wooden Primus" is enough to simply adjust the air flow overlap below. For cooking, the height of the flame is sufficient for 8-10 cm. When using a "candle" as a torch, it is even very hot, it can be kept in your hand, a good heat insulator tree.