Do-it-yourself oven, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick oven is made.

Consider the order of the furnace, which we will do with our own hands:
First

Second

We install the blower door with a size of 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast-iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of a brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay a grate with a size of 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut down a niche in bricks so that there is a gap around the perimeter of the grate with a size of one centimeter.

Seventh

We cut down two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate, to roll the coals into the furnace.
We install the first smoke damper, which, in the open state, provides the summer mode of the furnace.
Install a furnace door measuring 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, install a half brick on the edge.

Eleventh

We will cut grooves in bricks for installing a stove with a size of 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Similarly, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, ordering as in the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch a video for a complete understanding of the masonry process.

So, you can assemble an inexpensive oven with your own hands.

The device and schemes of furnaces for the home

1. Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers
2. Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of stoves for the home with predominantly lower heating
4. Furnace masonry, designed by V.

Groom-Grzhimailo
5. Laying the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Conventionally, heating furnaces can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of imperfect heat units used for a long time, manufacturing companies produce improved models of heating devices based on the latest technologies.

But in private households and suburban summer cottages, heating brick stoves are still widely used, while the schemes of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year there are fewer and fewer experienced stove-makers who are able to repair or remake them.

Currently, classic wood-burning stoves for houses, with their characteristic advantages, serve not to heat the premises, but to give the interior a uniqueness and originality.

Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers

The device of the two-tier heating furnaces shown in the photo is a design of two parts located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat transfer of the lower part of the furnace is 3200 kcal per hour, and the upper one is 2600 kcal/hour.

In furnaces for private households, brick laying with voids is provided in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of bunk ovens have a completely identical device.

In such heat units, a channelless smoke circulation system is used. According to the scheme of laying the furnace, gases from the firebox enter the upper hood with a nozzle. After cooling, the gases go down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, go through the liner into the mounted chimney.
At the lower furnace, the chimney runs through the upper half of the structure. For this reason, the latter of them has a smaller heating surface.

The upper part of the structure has a separate chimney.

The device of the heating furnace of a two-tier design is distinguished by the simplicity of laying bricks, and the scheme for moving gases is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part such a door is located in the side wall (in more detail: "Heating stoves for the house - do-it-yourself masonry").

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. Pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke dampers.

Usually, the upper part of the voids in two-tier heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural array.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: "How to repair a brick oven with your own hands").

Carefully lay out the chimney for the lower part of the heating bunk structure.
If leaks are allowed in the masonry, the wall separating the two pipes in the upper part will allow heat to pass even when the two smoke dampers are closed.

In a single array, if desired, you can combine different types of furnaces that have a rectangular or square shape and operate on various types of fuel.

Do-it-yourself stove laying schemes

Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is distinguished by a combined or mixed smoke circulation system. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat transfer is 4200 kcal/hour.

The device of square-shaped heating furnaces with lower heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively large height.

The lateral openings located symmetrically on both sides (2 pieces each) serve to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas then descends through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, the gases enter the risers through the lower screws and rise up through them.

There, the side chambers together form the so-called upper cap, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located in parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to a mounted chimney and evaporate into the atmosphere. See also: "Heating stoves in development."

Consequently, the schemes of furnaces for a square-shaped house with lower heating have 3 caps - the upper cap and 2 large chambers.

In such a heating structure, any type of solid fuel can be used.
If it is planned that the furnace will operate on coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid out exclusively from refractory bricks.

Schemes of stoves for the home with predominantly lower heating

If the heating structure has predominant lower heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer of 2640 kcal / h.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this furnace is classified as a combined duct heating unit with bottom heating.

When a furnace heating scheme for a private house is created using this design, it is understood that flue gases from the firebox will first descend and then rise up the riser to the ceiling (see also: “Kuznetsov’s heating stoves: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering”).

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then they will go to the last of the risers, which passes into the chimney.

The above design is distinguished by a rational solution and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulating gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a cap with a nozzle.
The principle of operation of the structure provides the air with the opportunity to pass at the bottom of the hood and at the same time it does not cool down.

The masonry of this stove is easy to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will go into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

The channelless scheme of laying the heating furnace shown in the photo was developed by Professor V.

Groom-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating structure. It has a rounded shape and is placed in a case made of sheet steel. Gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but under the influence of gravity. As a result, the cooled and heavier gases sink to the bottom, and the hot lungs rise to the top.

This furnace device for the house consists of two parts - at the bottom there is a firebox.

There is a small hail (mouth) in its ceiling, which ensures the passage of flue gases to the upper part, which is a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called channelless or bell-shaped.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the ceiling, and when they cool down, they fall along the walls to the base.

From there, they enter the chimney and, under the influence of draft, are carried away into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal one is along it.

Along the walls of the structure from the ceiling towards the roof there are buttresses designed to increase the internal surface of heat absorption and for better absorption of heat by the brick mass from exhaust gases.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the design developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to perform masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, despite the fact that the unit heats up quickly enough. See also: "Which brick oven is better for the house - types, advantages and disadvantages."

The creation of this furnace is not difficult.

Its advantage is as follows:

- in the event that the smoke damper on the pipe is not tightly closed, the upper part of the device will not cool down from the cold air entering the firebox.

Air penetrating into the fuel compartment through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the hood, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes to the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the hail is not subjected to cooling.

As for the shortcomings of the scheme of furnaces for a house of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. In order to level this minus a little, it is necessary to arrange holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove functions perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with firewood, especially damp, the gaps between the buttresses will become clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are in the 8th row, which does not allow you to completely get into all the gaps of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the root pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made rectangular or square.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the cap should be made thicker up to half a brick. See also: "Brick shield for a metal furnace."

Masonry of the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Schemes of stoves for the home, developed at the Thermal Engineering Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have a size of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a mine-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the ceiling, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move along the collection channel to the smoke riser. If the smoke valve is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
A feature of the furnace arrangement scheme lies in the different wall thicknesses of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the flame channel. It has an outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of its walls are laid in half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its layout is simple.

The efficiency of the furnace engineer Kovalevsky is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heat unit is the possibility of overheating of its upper part, since the hottest gases are directed into it. They will go down the furnace completely cooled down, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: "Gas stove for the home - convenient heating").

Chimneys are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and this facilitates the care of the combustion chamber by lowering the slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. The smoke in the structure is discharged into the built-in pipeline.

To date, these brick ovens are preferred by owners of country houses and summer cottages.

In the struggle for fuel economy, and, accordingly, money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a considerable number of different types of new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting scheme of the furnace for the house is shown in the video:

Furnace masonry

The bricks of the first row are first laid out without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using the level to check the horizontal position. With light blows of the mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with mortar bricks, controlling the masonry level.

With a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the furnace in terms of and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners with a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we lay out the perimeter first, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer nails 80-100 mm long into the corners in the seam between the first and second row.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order.

In the course of laying, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of excess squeezed mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet cloth.

The thickness of the oven masonry seam should be as thin as possible.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of ligation of bricks. Each vertical seam must be covered with a brick of the next upper row.

Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always achievable. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because.

it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging of masonry seams from fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to the different coefficient of linear expansion.

Therefore, either the entire row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for tight fit of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate the detected defects before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the holes of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

We apply mortar to the brickwork at the place where the door is installed. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks.

Then we lay the ends of the wire in the seams of the masonry.

Installation of the grate

When installing oven appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand the same when heated.

This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the high temperature zone. If they are tightly walled up in the furnace masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the furnace door

The furnace door is installed, as well as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

With intensive use of the furnace, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame.

The clamp is attached to the door with rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick to the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is performed by a wedge jumper.

Plate installation

The row on which it will be installed, lay out the plate first without mortar.

We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account the temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the plate. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord into it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, achieving its horizontal level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of mortar of 25-30 mm to prevent the walls of the oven from burning through.

Arches and vaults

When laying furnaces, it is often necessary to block various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using bridges of simple and complex shapes. The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap arranged between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault must be odd. The middle odd brick is the castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes.

You can not use one form of the heel for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so I have prepared a video guide “Do-it-yourself ovens” especially for you, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying the stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the oven with the pipe installed without a base must not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you are laying a slab base, you should check to see if the chimney can switch between the support beams in the attic and the shingles.
The base of the oven must not be tied to the base of the house, and the structure of the oven must not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can let them sit at the incision and swelling. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in case of unequal settlement of the house.
Wooden elements of the house and smoke must be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the kiln is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar must be potable or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the surface of the brick will appear as a white coating.
The grout sand must be used by a quarry (not a river) because the river sand particles have a rounded surface, making the grout brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side impacts from the load-bearing structures of home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to look for when making masonry bricks

Protect yourself and make sure the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid base, a horizontal wall and the verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is superimposed on it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured on top and leveled, and the first colorless brick is laid. Repair the gasket and press the hammer on the protruding bricks. The horizontality of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first row is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each line, check its flatness using the wall rule. After installing the two types, in order to ensure the verticality of the furnace box, you need to pull out the strings with a thickness of 1-3mm at the corners of the wall.

Ceiling attachment points are determined by the towing line. Above, the water line is lowered in such a way that the weight drops to the top of the outer corner of the oven. On the floor on the ceiling, from which the groove descends, the nail bends, a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, we insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

The rope vertical is then exposed to the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place laying strips along the edges of the joint, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a stroke of the handle. After the solution has dried, remove the spacers.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained with Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, as bricks are more prone to breakage.
Parts of cigarettes are located side by side in the seams.
In the area changing the direction of the flow of the smoked bottom, always the door is defined as a cleaning hole, or better "brick pushing" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall, is easier to understand than the necessary cleaning of the chimney.
The gasket should be planned so that the brick does not rely solely on the door frame or oven, and closes over them or is made into a wedge lock or vault.

This is done to simplify the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less as metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer be broken by this clutch. To avoid this, place the steel bands loose, without mortar or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use asbestos with a layer of 5 mm that you are in contact with the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are laid with a minimum spacing of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under smoke smoke up to 70-150mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened and laid along the firebox recesses, and the ashes will be difficult to clean the poker when preparing the stove for subsequent ignition.
Doors and corners must be fixed in the wall, which is screwed into holes and steel wire with two-core wires.

At the other ends twist past the nail and pull the wire, keep it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side wall of the oven must be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the pipe frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and smoke will occur in the chimney.
The walls of the chimneys must be flat and even.

To the solution in the chicken, the vertical channels do not get inside the oven, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney on a wire.

Periodically remove and clean it, make a canopy from the channel with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the ceiling of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the floor must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
To protect the floor under the fireplace stove, place a metal heating sheet.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
The ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​​​the entrance to the fireplace should be approximately 13%, the height of the chimney 10 m - about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire (or as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a pipe, a cap on a pipe) must be installed.

Protects the oven from smoking in windy weather and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Brick heating stoves

Since ancient times, brick has been used to build a furnace. Thanks to modern technologies, it has become possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, the brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials, brick heating stoves are in great demand.

Many build stoves for the home on their own, as this process is quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding. Installing such a furnace will not be difficult, since it does not require further lining. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

For this work, a small number of tools are needed, namely:

• Container for preparing the solution.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick ovens

Currently, there are separate types of brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for preparing tasty and healthy home-cooked food, and others perform only decorative functions.

There are also models that perform several functions at once, these include a heating and cooking stove made of bricks. This type of stove is also called "Swede", and in some areas they are called "Dutch".

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, the opinions of different people are divided. Some believe that the fireplace should stand separately, others are quite satisfied with the built-in stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and the use of consumables. Such an oven heats up the room quickly enough. In addition, a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

So, it can become an adornment of absolutely any home.

A brick oven-barbecue is a simple device, although it looks rather complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to an ordinary barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the courtyard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick ovens for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick ovens belonging to a certain type are strikingly different from each other.

Furnace Requirements

Most of the sites that are devoted to this topic set themselves the task of selling a ready-made furnace project. But what about people who decide to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create brick heating stove projects.

To greatly facilitate your work, you need to understand what requirements apply to modern brick kilns.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drafting absolutely all types of brick ovens. The list of requirements includes: (See also: Do-it-yourself oven construction)

1. Profitability.
2. The ability to retain heat for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire volume of the furnace.
5. Easy to operate.
6. Ease of maintenance.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

The heating stove is best placed in the center of the house, since if it adjoins at least one side to the wall facing the street, its effectiveness will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature fluctuations may occur, which negatively affect the life of the hearth. As well as the efficiency of the chimney.

The combination oven must be positioned in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. And the stove-fireplace should be located in the living room with a fireplace.

Solution preparation

Next, you need to make a cement mortar. For its preparation, clay is poured with water. At the same time, it must be sifted in advance, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick oven for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay mortar is a guarantee of the durability of the stove.

Soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be thoroughly mixed so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency so that when pressed on the brick, it is squeezed out from the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying the brick on the mortar, it is recommended to make a dry masonry.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to a disastrous result.

In order to keep the correct direction when laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, dressing of seams, internal arrangement, correctness of seams and horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay the oven)

The construction of the furnace

Before starting to use a brick, it is dipped in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that clay releases.

When laying a brick, it is necessary to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

In this way, a more durable building can be achieved. Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the solution due to their design features. It should be at least 3 and not more than 5 millimeters.

Excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is fixed with wire.

If this is neglected, a backlash may form, which will lead to the door falling out. For a more secure fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After that, it is required to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick block, into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must match with the door frame.

A gap of even one millimeter should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, it is required to dry the stove. To do this, open all windows and doors. The oven will dry out completely only after 15 days. The fact that the stove is ready for use is indicated by the disappearance of all damp traces.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the place, the first row is laid, on which a sheet of thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or waterproofing is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for the waterproofing device. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After that, sand is sifted, which is then poured in a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the site is carefully leveled. Verification is carried out by the building level.

In order not to be mistaken with the built structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. On this, the most important row can be considered ready.

After that, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of mortar and a blower door is placed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is fixed with annealed wire, after which you can prepare for the formation of the next row.

The third row must be laid out from fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

A grate is laid on the same row. The fourth row is laid on edge. Also at this stage, it is necessary to make special stands inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the back wall are laid without the use of mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called knockout.

A little later, the installation of the furnace door is carried out.

So that it can open from the bottom up, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord, after which it is fixed with wire. For some time it is supported by bricks. To make sure it stays vertical.

The manufacture of the back wall is carried out using two bricks, which are placed on the edge.

And already from the next row, the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Scheme and laying of brick ovens

This will allow you to perform a more durable dressing of the seams.

On the eighth row, a beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little to provide support while opening the door. Before installing the hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. A chimney is formed from the same row, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent the passage of smoke into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be docked with a metal pipe. If it shifts to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through the knockout brick.

A piece cut from polyethylene material is placed on the hob. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. On this brick oven with a stove is ready. We must not forget that it will be possible to use it only after it has completely dried out.

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Drawings of a brick sauna stove

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in a section along two sections.

How drawings with orders help to lay out brick ovens for the house

1. Red brick masonry.
2. Laying fire-resistant (chamotte) bricks.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bin for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

Drawing of the furnace, where its overall dimensions are indicated.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15…20 (mm). Behind the firebox, at the level of the grate, a metal water tank is installed.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, in which stones with a slide are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 x120 x 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke damper - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• stone bin - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for ligation of bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bin for stones.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17 row. Grooves are cut out in bricks and a valve is installed in them.
18 row. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are considered in the presented material.

Reference:
The heating time of water and stones is 150…180 (min.)

In the following article, you can familiarize yourself with the device of a sauna stove with a heat exchanger.

Country houses are increasingly equipped with small stoves of various models. The stove in the interior, by its very presence, makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn, it provides a comfortable temperature in the premises, which is doubly pleasant when it rains outside the window or a damp cold wind blows.

The modern market offers a huge selection of compact stoves for country houses designed to run on various types of fuel:

• Gas;
• Electrical;
• Models that run on coal, pellets or wood.

Wood stoves are in great demand. Tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, a breathtaking smell of real wood, a special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and solid country cottages.

Speech, in this article, will focus specifically on wood stoves.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heater will work on, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves are usually divided according to the following indicators:

• Purpose:
  • Heating, their only task is to heat the building;
  • Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special structural elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
  • Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit, or for preparing hot water. varieties of such structures are bath stoves;
  • The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruits, a water-heating box, an oven, a summer chimney and a connection point for a samovar.
• Production material:
  • Metal, with thin and thick walls;
  • cast iron;
  • brick;
• installation location:
  • classic options, designed for installation near the wall;
  • corner;
  • island. The design of such stoves allows you to put them in the center of the room;
• burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
  • short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one bookmark of firewood;
  • long (up to 12 hours), which is achieved due to the system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the rulers and.

Cast iron furnaces

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. They are used as a backup source of heat, which can be used in emergency cases. Unlike thin-walled steel stoves, cast iron stoves, having warmed up quickly, store heat for a long time.

Products of this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are available with a built-in additional air supply system, which allows you to burn pyrolysis gases.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip water heating in the country. Their power is enough to heat one and two-story country houses of a large area. Provided that CO is filled with non-freezing coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick oven for a summer residence is the most durable, reliable and status option. But these stoves are quite expensive. The rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel or cast iron models. But this is repeatedly compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the models of stoves is used as a summer cottage:

• dutch
• Swede
• Kuznetsov ovens.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose fairly compact options, stoves of a similar design are available for self-laying (with strict adherence to the orders), have an acceptable cost (even when ordering work from a professional stove maker).

Products of the mentioned types allow you to choose the optimal model, which:

• will provide the optimum temperature in the country house with a minimum consumption of firewood;
• will heat up evenly over the entire height;
• maintain a comfortable temperature in the cottage for a long time;
• have a maximum heating of the outer walls of not more than 95 ° C;
• the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
• its estimated durability (when using appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
• the appearance of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. It is dangerous for human health (carbon monoxide enters the room);
• visually appealing appearance.

What is required for work

If you decide to lay out a brick oven on your own in the country, you should start by choosing its type. Then the desired order is selected (in the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design to an experienced stove-maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

Having order in hand, you can go to purchase materials (and the missing tool). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick kilns. The difference is only in the amount of materials needed.

To work, you will definitely need:

• brick, but not any, but the one that is indicated in the order.

This material is divided into:

• by size:
  • 250*120*65 - normal;
  • 250*120*80 - thickened;
  • 288*138*138 - modular;
• By strength (from brand 75 to brand 300);
• By varieties:
  • For masonry, only brick of the 1st and 2nd grade is suitable. From it is placed the body of the furnace and the chimney;
• Refractory (other name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying a firebox.

• Clay red (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is subdivided into:
  • Oily (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
  • Medium (≤ 15%);
  • Skinny (about 30%);
• Sand (preferably quarry);
• Chamotte (preferably). This material is added instead of sand to clay, in the manufacture of mortar for laying the firebox;
• Water (preferably rainwater or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
• Slaked lime. This material will be required during the arrangement, as well as the head of the chimney, which rises above the roof;
• Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For a country stove, brand 400 and above will be enough.

Additional materials

• Steel profiles (if they are provided for by the order);
• Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
• Annealed steel wire;
• Asbestos cord;
• Waterproofing (roofing material);
• Construction felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
• Refractory mastics (Russian "Garant" or "Monolith"), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial possibilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while improving its quality). Purchase pre-made dry masonry mixes. For example, from the Scanterm line, Finnish production (or analogues).

In addition to the main and additional building materials, you will need basic stove appliances (according to the order):

• Furnace door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fiery dance);
• Blower door;
• Views;
• gate valves;
• Rotary dampers;
• Flygarka.

Tool

For convenience, you will need the following tool:

• Stovemaker's hammer;
• Pick;
• Construction trowel (other name, trowel);
• Jointing for masonry joints (desirable);
• Cycle knife;
• Scoop shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
• Measuring tool:
  • Roulette;
  • folding meter;
  • plumb;
  • square;
  • levels: building, water (if any, laser);
• falcons;
• grater and half grater;
• grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
• extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Masonry

If earlier the laying of the furnace was carried out exclusively according to the existing orders, today the Internet provides an opportunity to lay out a simple furnace, guided by a step-by-step photo with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since the correct reading of the orders requires primary knowledge of furnace business and symbols.

We offer you a combined version (orders + photo), which tells about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and cook food.

Foundation arrangement

It is from this stage that work begins if the furnace has a significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg in this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making the foundation.

In the event that the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend that you perform a screed in place of the future one.

Thereafter:

• we perform waterproofing of the masonry site by laying a sheet of waterproofing material (roofing material);
• on top of it we form a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
• under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (position 1 of the order given above);
• in the second and third rows we have a blower door. We wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using a wire;
• put the 2nd and 3rd row;
• the 4th is done with fireclay bricks;
• A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion, when forming a seat, a four-sided gap of 10 mm should be provided;
• The laying of the fifth row is carried out "on edge". We form a stand inside the chimney, for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight advance beyond the plane of the rear wall of the furnace, “on dry” (without the use of masonry mortar), a “knock-out brick” is placed;
• In rows 6-8 there will be a firebox door. We also wrap it with an asbestos cord around the installation perimeter, connect a mounting wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
• We put the 6th row “in a spoon” along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th “on the edge”. We perform grouting of the inner walls of the chimney with a damp cloth (we remove excess mortar);
• To ensure the dressing of masonry joints, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with a brick in ¾ (blanks of the required length are made by a grinder). The back wall in this row is placed on the edge;
• In the ninth row, the firebox door is closed from above. Above the firebox, to center the fire under the burner, a “smoke tooth” (beveled brick) is placed.
• The 10th row, in order to keep the door open, is placed with the brick offset to the back wall. Before starting masonry, a wet asbestos cord should be laid, which will play the role of a sealant along the line of contact between the hob and brick;
• Starting from the 11th row, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step shift to the rear wall). In order to prevent this from leading to a shift in the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made of a plug-in (metal) or is made attached;
• 12 row. This is the installation site of the valve, which is pre-sealed with asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
• Then a ¼ smoke pipe is placed, to which a metal pipe is joined;
• The knockout brick is removed and the construction debris accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
  
• The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal overlay. then the plinth is nailed.
• The stove is whitewashed, after which the outer surface is covered with heat-resistant varnish (stove). Joints between brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is desirable to paint all stove appliances with refractory black paint.
• A trial firebox is being carried out (small wood chips, paper). After that, the design is aged for 14-15 days to complete the natural drying.

Below is another selection of photographs that shows that a brick oven can not only be laid from scratch, but also completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, pipes and foundations).

The stove, which stood in the country for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair or complete replacement of the furnace, after checking its actual condition, it was decided to replace it, while maintaining (in order to save money and time for laying) the old foundation and chimney.

To carry out these works, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network) needed:

• Furnace brick brand "Vitebsky" - 450 pcs;
• Chamotte brick for the firebox - 40 pieces;
• Sheet asbestos - 1 sheet;
• Cement M400 - 1 bag;
• Chamotte clay - 3 bags;
• Refractory black paint, designed for use at temperatures up to 600 ° C - 1 can;
• Refractory varnish (colorless) - 2 bottles;
• Door with glass for the firebox - 1 piece;
• Blower door (with the selection of a pattern to match the main one) - 1 piece;
• Medium-sized grate - 1 piece;

Views and valves are used from an old furnace.

And now we look.

1. This is what it looked like before the renovation. Cracks in the slab, gaps around it and crumbling bricks in the furnace were the basis for alteration.
   
2. The pipe is in excellent condition. And, with the consent of the master stove-maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no furnace under it was solved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut in its walls, into which a corner was inserted. So that the latter does not diverge, it was fixed with a wire. And two boards were brought under it (this is the second floor of a country house).
3. Then the furnace began to be dismantled. At the same time, they tried to save the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the top two rows were kept on the pipe. This eliminated the need to re-pass the floor and ceiling covering.
   
4. Demolition continues. Got to the oven. Since it is not needed for the new furnace, we delete it.
   
5. Reached the lower chimneys
   
6. Removed everything down to the foundation
   
7. And this is "a look through the pipe." The sky is visible. So traction is guaranteed.
   
8. The baker was a professional. Therefore, instead of jointing the seams, he suggested removing the chamfer from them. It turned out great.
   
   
9. Laying the first brick of the new kiln
   
10. The bottom row is ready. Used bricks inside.
    
11. This is what a professional laying looks like
    
12. The lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
    Its location guarantees bottom heating of the air in the room.
13. Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. Right, bottom view.
    
14. The turn came to the firebox door.
    
15. View in all its glory (see photo 13)
    
16. Installing the hob on 1 burner (fitting).
    
17. Above the firebox, the master formed a protruding brick visor. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire wall of the furnace, but will be held by this element.
    
18. The hob is placed on the mastic. Nearby is a functional step for dishes, which is very convenient.
    
19. And this is the “belly of the furnace”, one of the knees of the internal chimney.
    
20. And these are all 3 knees in the "group portrait"
    
21. Firebox
    
22. Almost full length. The visor and latch are clearly visible (on the side).
23. A dryer is located above the hob.
24. And here you can see how the issue of warm air access has been resolved. Everything ingenious is simple (view from below)
    
25. Shelf on top. Behind it are vertical sections of the chimney.
    
26. The stove reached its ceiling, which is also equipped with a visor for beauty.
    
27. We begin laying the pipe in free space, trying to combine it with the existing part.
    
28. This is the distance left between the new and old parts of the pipe. The brick will not go in for sure. And it is necessary.
    
29. This did not stop the professional. The stove-maker simply used two jacks and raised the rest of the pipe to the desired height.
    
    
30. We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay the masonry mortar on top of it.
    
31. We lower the upper part and it sits tightly on the solution.
    
32. We cover the surface of the furnace with varnish, and metal elements. black paint. Work completed.
33. Control furnace.
    
    

Brick stoves are a source of a healthy atmosphere and fresh air (due to draft and constant air renewal in the room), there is no need for additional installation of radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and heat the air in several rooms at the same time.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very healthy.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all the instructions, follow the masonry technology, monitor the horizontal rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the furnace is in the center of the house.

• heating;
• For cooking (the forerunners of modern stoves);
• Cooking and heating (a combination of the two previous models);
• Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

Construction is desirable to carry out in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: brick - 220 pieces, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast-iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), a sheet of asbestos cement, a grate - a grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, be sure to build a foundation. We choose the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and the level of groundwater. We are waiting for the complete hardening of the foundation and proceed to construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended, as a training, to lay out the oven without mortar in order to avoid mistakes in the future. The rows will be numbered along the masonry for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak bricks in water.

1. The first two rows are laid out according to the drawing, solid. To do this, you need 10 bricks for each row.
2. In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we fasten it to the wire and special metal fasteners).
3. 4: we build this row, referring to the order, building up the walls.
4. 5: we are building a brick ceiling above the blower door, we are laying the grate (do not forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate to the brickwork, we fill the gap with sand).
5. Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the furnace door. We are building the sixth row, clamping the fastening of the door with bricks.
6. The seventh and eighth rows - we build up the walls, observing the order, again referring to the drawing.
7. In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating an overlap above it. In this row, we begin to build a smoke box and finish it by the eleventh row.
8. To separate the cooking zone and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on the edge. We fix the cast-iron hob (row number 12).
9. From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row, lay out the bricks "on edge". Cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
10. Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
11. In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we put a cleaning door, we build up the walls of the furnace.
12. Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
13. The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace, bandaging the previous row).
14. The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
15. After that, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we make masonry according to the drawing. In the 27th and 28th rows, we leave a space between the bricks to clean the furnace.
16. Then we make a complete overlap of the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
17. From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and bring the chimney to the street.

How to kindle a brick oven with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If they are, cover with a solution of clay. We clean the furnace from combustion products. We prepare firewood. Warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the blower door ajar for air access. For uniform burning of firewood we turn with a poker in the process of their burning. Additional firewood is best done after the formation of the first coals.

We make a wood-burning stove for the house: Instructions for building a brick oven

Such a stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of ​​30-40 sq.m.

The furnace has three flue channels arranged vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two firing modes - summer and winter.

For work we get:

• full-bodied ceramic bricks M175 - 400 pieces;
• refractory bricks - 20 pieces (SHB8);
• two-burner cast-iron stove 70x40 cm;
• valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
• furnace door 27x30 cm;
• blower doors 2 pieces 15x16 cm;
• masonry tools (trowels, mortar containers, etc.).

We build the foundation for the furnace and proceed to laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it sets the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is not more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fire cut.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install a blower door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future, the combustion chamber will be lined with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we produce fasteners for the cleaning door and the formation of the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we block the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we make the overlap of the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see the formation of two vertical smoke channels 12x12 cm.

Let's designate the left channel with the number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one - with the number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the furnace in winter). The dimensions of the outlet channel are 25x12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form channels and install the furnace door.

Eighth row: we bandage row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the furnace.

We put the valve of the summer course. If you open it, the smoke will directly enter the chimney without overheating the room excessively. If the valve is closed, flue gases will enter channel number 3 and pass along a long path, heating the entire structure of the furnace and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We are preparing a support for installing the locking of the furnace door.

Tenth row: we close the furnace door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here, flue gases will pass from the second channel to the first when burning in winter mode.

From fireclay bricks we cut out slots for the grate of the grate and put it inside the furnace. We isolate the back wall with mineral wool.

Despite the development of modern heating technologies, brick ovens quite often used for home heating, and this is understandable - they are not only effectively heat your home, but and give a feeling of comfort and home.

Stove heating has a number of advantages, thanks to which wood-fired brick ovens have not lost their popularity for several centuries. The most important merit- the ability of ceramic bricks, from which stoves are laid, store and release heat for a long time.

At the same time, radiant energy useful for the human body is released into the space, giving a feeling of warmth and comfort. With regular heating in the cold season, the house is always warm and dry, and due to stove draft, natural ventilation is formed. In the heat, the stove, on the contrary, cools the rooms by removing excess heat into the ground and air through the foundation and chimney.

In addition to creating a comfortable microclimate, a brick oven can carry additional functions, the presence of which depends on the design:

• cooking - boiling, frying, stewing and baking;
• drying clothes, shoes, food;
• heating beds for sleeping;
• the opportunity to admire the open flame.

Furnaces that provide several functions are called combined. These types of stoves include fireplace stoves, as well as several popular basic models, including a Russian stove.

At furnace heating have and limitations, they include inability to efficiently heat remote rooms. Therefore, in large-area houses, several stoves with separate or combined chimneys are usually installed, or stove heating is combined with other types of heating.

In compact houses, consisting of one or more rooms, the stove is usually located in the center, so that its walls are located in all rooms. The hob and oven are placed on the side of the kitchen, the stove bench is in the bedroom or nursery, and the open fireplace insert is in the living room or dining room.

Overview of brick ovens

The most popular and time-tested basic designs are widely used by stove-makers: they make small adjustments to them, adjusting the size and functionality to the customer's desire. However, the principle of their work is preserved, so all brick stoves can be divided into several groups.

Video: do-it-yourself masonry master class

Differs in massiveness, large dimensions and wide functionality. It consists of an open firebox, which in some cases is closed with a damper, as well as extended smoke channels that run along all the walls of the stove and heat them well. Sometimes a Russian stove is equipped with another firebox with a hob.

, in addition to heating, allows:

• cook a variety of food - boil, fry, stew, bake;
• dry things and shoes;
• heat a couch or beds used for sleeping and relaxing.

The efficiency of the Russian stove is not too high - up to 60%, in addition, its firebox requires certain skills. Moreover, it is necessary to heat the Russian stove in winter regularly, avoiding interruptions and cooling the body of the stove. With periodic heating in a cooled stove, condensate forms, the brick absorbs it and cracks during the next cooling and freezing.

In summer, the Russian stove is heated regularly or periodically, for cooking, while using the “summer” mode, directing the smoke with a damper straight into the chimney. The body of the stove does not heat up.

Advantages of the Russian stove:

• multifunctional, solves a whole range of tasks;
• with regular heating during the cold season, it creates an even microclimate in the house without temperature fluctuations;
• decorates the house and gives it a peculiar national flavor.

Flaws:

• large weight and dimensions - the construction of a massive foundation is required;
• a large amount of masonry materials, high construction costs;
• complex maintenance, the need for regular cleaning of the channels and the chimney with your own hands;
• not too high efficiency.

It is advisable to build a Russian stove in a house for permanent residence, if there is free space and financial capabilities.

Dutch

The Dutch stove is a fairly popular design of heating stoves, sometimes they are equipped with a hob. This is a channel-type stove - for efficient heating of the walls, it is equipped with smoke channels with a vertical arrangement. Passing through them, the smoke completely burns out and gives off heat to the brick.

The design feature of the Dutch oven is a small footprint, which makes it popular with summer residents and owners of small houses. At the same time, the stove can be made of any height, so it can successfully heat two floors. The shape of the stove also varies from square and rectangular to round, but in any case, its height is much greater than its width, so the Dutch stove is often compared to a column.

Advantages of the "Dutch":

• saving on space and materials - it needs two to three times less bricks than a Russian stove, and the price of its construction is much lower, it can be easily folded with your own hands;
• the Dutch woman has rather thin walls and warms up quickly;
• it can be heated after long breaks, immediately bringing it to full power;
• with modest dimensions, the "Dutch" can heat a house up to 70 square meters.

However, it also has disadvantages:

• Its efficiency is low - about 40%;
• the optimal mode of operation is smoldering, which is why the "Dutch" is sometimes called a long-burning brick oven;
• to ensure good traction, cleaning the furnace from ash and soot should be regular;
• if the view is not closed after the firebox, the stove cools down instantly, so it requires close attention and firebox skill.

The Dutch stove is great for heating a summer house or a small house, including those with a second or attic floor, while it can be equipped with a stove, oven or water tank.

Swedish

The Swedish stove has a more versatile design compared to the Dutch one, while its efficiency is much higher with compact dimensions. The standard Swede is multifunctional, it has a hob, an oven, and two niches for drying shoes and clothes, and some masters complement the Swede with a fireplace or a stove bench.

This is a channel-type stove, in which the principle of a bell-type stove is also implemented - the afterburning of flue gases under the roof of the furnace. The stove effectively heats two adjacent rooms, usually a kitchen and a room, the "Swede" will not cope with heating a large house.

Advantages of "Swede":

• fast warming up;
• efficient fuel combustion;
• the special design of the channels allows you to warm up the lower part of the oven, so that the floors become warm;
• the ability to cook various dishes;
• in the niches located on top it is convenient to dry vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as heat up food;
• they can also dry clothes, shoes;
• if desired, you can build a heat exchanger into the oven and heat water for household needs.

Disadvantages of "Swedes":

• for laying highly heated elements, it is imperative to use fireclay bricks, which increases the price of its construction;
• to avoid heat loss through the bottom of the stove, you need to make good thermal insulation;
• it is not recommended to completely cool the stove in the cold season, since the ignition of a cold, damp stove leads to the gradual destruction of the masonry.

Swede is suitable for small houses with permanent residence or as an additional source of heat in houses with water heating.

Bell-type

Photo: bell-type furnace
One of the most modern developments -. Their difference is the ability to warm up evenly from all sides and retain heat for a long time. Unlike duct stoves, bell or dome stoves do not have winding narrow channels, so they are no less susceptible to solid particles settling and narrowing of the chimney.

The principle of their action is as follows: the smoke from the furnace rises up, under the hood, where it lingers until it cools, after which it descends along the walls, heating them. The stove can have a whole cascade of hoods in which the smoke gradually cools, so the efficiency of such stoves is very high.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

• simple design and a small amount of material required for masonry, low price;
• the stove can be heated from a cold state, while it quickly heats all adjacent rooms;
• if you forget to close the damper, the stove will not cool down like a “Dutch”, thanks to the so-called gas view, which prevents back draft;
• if desired, it can be equipped with a hob and a heat exchanger;
• even a novice stove-maker can fold such an oven with his own hands.

This stove is practically devoid of shortcomings, therefore it is very popular with summer residents and owners of country houses.

Bell-type stoves are an excellent choice for giving, a country house, a cottage. Thanks to any possible number of cascades, it can heat several rooms at once, including those on two floors.

Brick long-burning stoves - is it possible?

Any homeowner, faced with stove heating, tries to reduce labor costs, including the time spent on heating the stove. Therefore, many are interested in the possibility build a brick oven with a long-burning mode.

However, this impossible for several reasons. The long burning mode, implemented in industrial metal stoves, implies a slow smoldering of firewood, during which a large amount of smoke containing carbon monoxide is released. Industrial stoves equipped with a long-burning mode have a sealed firebox, so that waste cannot enter the room.

In addition, to ensure slow smoldering of firewood, it is necessary to limit the flow of air into the furnace. In brick stoves, this can be done by covering the blower, but it is inconvenient to regulate the air supply in this way.

Partially, the long-burning mode can be implemented in the "Dutch" and the Russian stove. But you should not rely on the effectiveness of this method, it is better to choose the design of a brick stove that allows you to keep warm for a long time, or purchase it - their price is lower than that of brick models, and the efficiency is almost as good as them.

Basic masonry techniques

Having made a decision, the first thing you need to do is choose a design that meets your needs, find an ordering scheme and a description of the masonry, after which you can start buying material and purchased items. Laying a brick oven requires knowledge of basic working methods.

• Under a brick oven, a foundation is required, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the hearth of the oven by 100-150 mm on each side. It can be made of reinforced concrete, as well as made of concrete blocks or rubble. The main requirement that must be observed is that the foundation for the furnace should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the house, otherwise, seasonal ground shifts may damage the furnace or pipe.
• For laying the furnace with their own hands, two types of bricks are used: red full-bodied ceramics and refractory fireclay, yellow in color. The most heated surfaces are laid from fireclay bricks - a firebox, smoke channels, while using a refractory masonry mortar based on fireclay clay. The price of these materials is higher than that of ordinary bricks, so fireclay is used only where necessary. All other elements of the furnace and the chimney are laid out of ceramic bricks, and a mortar based on furnace red clay or a purchased composition, including heat-resistant cement, is required.

Between the fireclay and ceramic masonry, it is imperative to maintain a gap of about 5 mm in order to compensate for the different temperature deformation of these materials.

• Purchased elements - grates, doors, views and hobs - are placed in accordance with the scheme. The doors are fixed with the help of annealed steel wire with a length of at least 30-40 cm. It is inserted at one end into the holes intended for this in the door frame, and the other end is fixed between the bricks on the masonry mortar. The slab and grate are placed on the previous row of masonry in the grooves selected in the brick. To compensate for the different thermal expansion of brick and cast iron, asbestos cloth or cord is used.
• The chimney of a brick oven is usually also made of brick, but an industrial-made ceramic block chimney can also be used. It is characterized by a long service life, increased resistance to condensate containing carbonic acid, creates stable traction, and does not clog.
• To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, it can be lined with finishing stone, clinker, tiles. Finishing gives the stove not only a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from the harmful effects of water and dust, and although the price of such a stove is somewhat higher, its service life is significantly increased.

Video: do-it-yourself oven masonry

The choice of the correct design of the furnace and high-quality masonry is the key to its long and safe operation.. A do-it-yourself brick wood-burning stove will decorate any home, moreover, this heating method is reliable and allows you to create comfort and a favorable temperature regime.

They build in country houses heating or heating and cooking brick mini ovens These facilities allow you to heat the house in the off-season and in the winter season.

A stove designed exclusively for heating is erected if there is gas and electricity in the summer cottage all year round. If there is nothing to cook food on, they build ovens with a hob.

Schemes of small brick ovens

Compact ovens do not take up much space which is especially important for small spaces. Heaters have rectangular section at the base. Height stoves depends on the height of the building and the model chosen. A brick chimney is often replaced with a factory-made steel pipe.

Heating and cooking mini-oven

In small ovens designed for heating the house and cooking, they build niche for stove.

In another niche located above the firebox, you can build oven, hot water container. Niche space is often used for drying things.

Consider a specific scheme of a compact stove with a size bases 0.64 x 0.51 meters (2 x 3.5 bricks) and 2.15 meters high (32 layers of masonry).

This heater model is designed for heating small and medium-sized houses with an area of from 25 to 40 square meters. Ceramic full-bodied (ordinary) brick is suitable for masonry.

The stove is built in the kitchen (in the middle of the room or against the wall). This oven has the following structural elements:

• combustion chamber;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• hole for cleaning smoke channels;
• hole for building a chimney;
• a niche with a hob;
• niche for installing an oven or hot water tank.

metal heater elements buy in a hardware store. To the list factory parts included:

• furnace door size 20 x 20 cm(solid cast iron or with refractory glass in a metal frame);

Photo 1. Furnace door measuring 30 by 30, made of polished cast iron and refractory glass. There is a possibility of regulation of draft.

• blower door ( 14 x 14 cm);
• 2 doors for cleaning smoke channels ( 20 x 14 cm);
• grate ( 45 x 25 cm);
• hob size 20 x 35 cm(with or without hole);
• 2 valves;
• steel angle profile length 50 cm(fastened between the furnace sheet and the furnace wall);
• pre-furnace metal sheet size 50 x 60-70 cm.

Oven and hot water tank welded from steel sheet. Under pre-furnace sheet put asbestos cardboard of the same size. For furnace work you will need:

• 222 units full-bodied red brick;
• finished masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves (or a solution of sand and ordinary clay taken on the ground in a quarry).

Small heating device

Consider a specific heater circuit. Base This model has the shape of a rectangle with a size 0.89 x 0.51 meters (2.5 by 2 bricks). Height stoves - 2 meters 38 cm.

The compact dimensions allow the heater to be built in the corner or in the center of the room. If the cottage has a kitchen and a couple of living rooms with a total area up to 40 square meters, the heater is built into wall openings (interroom partitions).

Main elements this model:

• firebox;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• chimney outlet.

A door with heat-resistant glass in a metal frame or a solid cast-iron door is built into the furnace portal. Furnace build on a solid foundation buried in the ground. The foundation is made solid or columnar.

Important! The oven is laid out from ceramic and fireclay bricks. A firebox is laid out of fireclay bricks, and the lower and upper parts of the heater are made of ceramic bricks. The laying is done on sand-clay and fireclay-clay solutions.

Making a small stove for a summer residence with your own hands

In this example, we will consider in detail the preparatory and main work on the construction of a heating compact mini-oven in the country. Important points works are:

• choice of finished project;
• choice places in a country house for the construction of a stove;
• acquisition materials;
• purchase of metal details and accessories;
• kiln preparation tool, purchase or rental of power tools (grinders, vibrators);
• building foundation;
• building stoves.

You will also be interested in:

Selecting a finished project

Main requirement to the heater - the ability to give off heat for several hours after heating. Of considerable importance is the rapid warming up of the house with economical fuel combustion. Choice also influence:

• weather region during the winter months and off-season;
• square country house and the number of heated rooms;
• price materials.

Photo 2. An example of a drawing of a small heating brick oven with dimensions. On the right is a sectional view, the order is indicated.

The choice of model is influenced owner's tastes. A well-built heating stove of this design can not only heat, but also decorate a country house.

materials

The choice of quality materials allows you to build a reliable furnace. For work need:

• ceramic bricks ( 260 units);
• fireclay bricks ( 130 units);
• factory (ready) mixtures for furnace works (clay-sand and fireclay-sand).

When choosing a fireclay brick for a firebox, pay attention to the marking. bricks with letter "U" Made from recycled, recycled fireclay. They have lower strength values ​​compared to bricks with letter "SH".

Suitable for laying the lower and upper parts of the heater ordinary red brick. The quality of the material is judged by the presence of cracks, black spots from factory firing. If there are a lot of broken, cracked, burnt bricks in the batch, it is better to look for material in another store.

Mixes are bred water according to package instructions. They do not need to add salt, other ingredients.

Advice. Masonry paste of normal consistency, typed on a spatula, does not fall and does not flow when the tool is tilted 45-55 degrees.

The metal parts of the stove are purchased at a hardware store. For this design you will need:

• furnace door size 30 x 20 cm;
• blower door size 20 x 14 cm;
• 2 doors for cleaning holes - 20 x 40 cm;
• grate ( 40 x 23 cm);
• roofing material ( 60 x 100 cm), two segment;
• sheet steel size 50 x 70 cm;
• asbestos slate ( 50 x 70 cm);
• steel corner (rolled) length 50 cm;
• 2 oven valves size 13 x 13 cm.

To fix the doors in the masonry you will need 6 meters steel wire diameter 1-2 mm or steel strips ( 1.65 meters), bolts and long self-tapping screws.

Foundation preparation

The size of the foundation depends on the specific conditions of construction. Minimum thickness of the base for this model of a small furnace - 55-60 cm.

The foundation is built in such a way that it covered the freezing zone, Little rose above the floor or was equal to it. For construction, concrete, steel reinforcement, brick, rubble stone, sand, gravel, waterproofing roll material are used.

For a compact small oven, a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation is suitable. Installation and pouring in progress in the following order:

• A pit is dug in the ground, the dimensions of which exceed the perimeter of the future stove 10-20 cm on each side.
• The bottom of the pit is leveled and rammed.
• A layer of fine gravel is poured into the pit ( 22-25 cm), on it is a layer of medium-grained sand ( 15-17 cm).
• A pillow of loose stone is leveled and rammed.
• The pit is lined with roofing felt, roofing material, the docking points are coated with mastic made from bitumen, tar.
• Installed in a hole formwork to the desired height, a steel reinforcement grate is installed inside it.
• The pit is poured with concrete, a vibrodrill is used to compact and release air bubbles.
• After complete setting and drying of the cement, put on the base two waterproof layers from ruberoid.
• Two layers of oven bricks are placed on top of the roofing material (on mortar).

The construction of the brick oven itself

Before starting work, masonry mortars are kneaded. Brickwork is led to strictly horizontal surfaces. This parameter is checked at the foundation construction stage. Below is a description of the serial laying of a heating mini-oven.

1 row. According to the scheme, a brick is laid, forming a blower. The lower frame of the blower door is fixed to the blower portal.

2-3 rows. Laying according to the scheme.

4 row. Fixing the blower door in the masonry, masonry according to the scheme.

5 row. Furnace chamber layout. Installation of grate. Installation of the furnace door in the portal (laying fasteners in the seams).

6-9 rows. Laying the combustion chamber according to the scheme. Fastening the door holders into the seams.

10-12 rows. The lining of the combustion chamber.

13-15 rows. Masonry of the vault of the firebox, formation of the smoke channel of the furnace.

16-17 row. Masonry according to the scheme, embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Sealing the door fasteners into the seams.

18-24 rows. Formation of smoke channels of the furnace.

25-26 row. Embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Formation of smoke channels.

27 row. Channel laying.

28 row. Installation of the bottom valve, laying channels.

29-31 rows. Formation of channels, work according to the scheme.

Photo 3. The middle of the furnace construction process: the furnace is arranged, the formation of smoke channels begins.

32 row. Solid masonry, closing the vaults of channels, forming a chimney. Installing the top flap.

33-34 rows. Solid masonry with the formation of a chimney.

35 row. Construction of the first layer of masonry chimney.

Possible difficulties and problems

Inexperienced craftsmen do not use a frame of wooden beams and a plumb line when erecting furnace walls, which leads to deviation of the walls from the vertical.

If during the construction process it was discovered skewed walls, the masonry should be disassembled and shifted.

After completion of work and natural drying, the mini-oven begins to be heated with small portions of firewood.

At the same time, the furnace walls cracked due to the fact that shrinkage processes are taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Incorrect sealing of the door fasteners can lead to its displacement. To avoid skewed door, it is not left open until the fasteners are fully embedded in the seams. If the displacement is detected during the construction process, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are closed again.

Useful video

A video in which the three-dimensional model shows the phased construction of a small stove for a summer residence: for clarity, each row is painted with its own color.

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