A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household, according to the degree of necessity it is, perhaps, in second place after an electric drill. If you do not have to use a saw very often, nevertheless, at the slightest possibility of manufacturing parts, I recommend acquiring such a machine. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and grinding wheels, a milling cutter and a universal woodworking head.

The main units of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant design changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is made frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype, this saw design provides not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling, as well as sharpening tools and cutting metal.

The basis of this design is an electric motor from a washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is its exceptional reliability, and given that it works in more favorable conditions in an electric saw, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode, replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is cut from plywood or boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is attached to the base with MB screws with a conical head using corners measuring 50 x 50 mm and 140 mm long, attached to the electric motor by its own tie bolts so that the horizontal shelves of the corners are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, a subframe made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base is attached to the upper part of the electric motor (Fig. 2). The holes in the squares, which serve for their attachment to the engine, are oblong in order to ensure the tension of the belt drive. Instead of the standard nuts of the upper engine tie bolts, a 120 x 20 x 4 mm steel bar with M8 threaded holes is installed into which the bolts are screwed. The underframe and the base in the area opposite to the engine are connected by spacer posts made of a metal bar with a diameter of 15 mm.

The ball bearings of the shaft, on which the saw blade and the belt pulley are mounted, are installed in the housing of the bearing unit. As for the manufacture of the bearing housing, the shaft and parts that serve to secure the saw blade (Fig. 3), it is advisable to entrust their manufacture to a qualified turner, since the quality of these parts largely depends not only on the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also the quality of woodworking.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20, it is designed for the installation of bearings of the 203 type, which, for example, can be taken from a water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car shop. It is advisable to make the spindle shaft and saw blade attachment parts of better quality steel, for example, steel 45. The dimensions of the saw blade attachment parts allow the installation of blades with an inner hole diameter of both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing unit is welded to a steel square 75 x 75 mm in size with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm and a length of 82 mm, with which the bearing unit is attached to the underframe with MB screws with tapered heads. The threaded holes for attaching it to the underframe should be drilled prior to welding using a template with which the holes are subsequently drilled in the underframe. The bearing seats are chalked before welding to avoid welding spatter. It should be noted that it is recommended to drill all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined together during the preliminary preliminary assembly, including cutting a hole in the underframe, which serves to install the cutting tool, the approximate size of which is 200 x 30 mm.

The working table is made of duralumin with a thickness of 4-5 mm or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin with a thickness of 8-10 mm. For the passage of the saw blade, a slot about 10 mm wide is made in the table. This can be done later, in the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which the halves of detachable card door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left) are fastened with screws M5 in diameter (right and left), which include the mating halves of the hinges with pins attached to the work table with M5 screws with a conical head. Mating halves to ensure the orientation of the countersinks in the hinge plates with the fastener heads are interchanged: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right counterpart.

In the opposite part of the table, there is a supporting-lifting device, which provides smooth adjustment of the lifting of the table edge relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of the edge of the cutting tool relative to the table surface. At the first stage of the manufacture of the machine, generally speaking, it is possible to do without a lifting device, fixing the table on the underframe and adjusting the lifting of the table by setting washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, grease them with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with different dimensions, the dimensional chains of the bearing housing must be corrected. It is advisable to use ready-made nuts. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from an aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise the use of cutting tools with a diameter of 200 mm or more will be impossible: 1 Some washing machines are equipped with such belts. In combination with a small diameter cutting tool, of course, shorter belts can be used.

The standard circuit for turning on the saw electric motor is shown in Fig. 4. The starting relay of the RTK-S type is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upwards - otherwise the relay will not operate correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use a capacitor starting system (Fig. 5), since it has been noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the motor torque is noticeably higher.

The capacitor starting system does not require the use of a starting relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is carried out using a modified two rocker switch. The "Start" key (Fig. 6) is supplied with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or spongy rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures the return of the key to its original state. The flag attached to this key ensures automatic operation of the second section of the S2 switch, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the "Start" button for the time during which the electric motor will reach operating speed. After releasing the pressure, the "Start" button by the elastic element returns to its original state, opening the SI contacts, disconnecting the starting capacitors, while the "Stop" button remains on, closing the S2 contacts. Stop the electric motor by pressing the "Stop" button. When using a capacitor starting system, it is necessary to install a fuse for a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the nuts of the tie rods are released and the underframe is displaced relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that with intensive operation of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor starting system for the engine, the weakest link of the machine may be the standard transmission belt. In this case, a belt drive with a double belt can be used.

When using the standard system for starting the electric motor, it is also advisable to connect the capacitor Cp to the terminals of the starting relay "O" and "P", as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The details of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield, z-shaped in place, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and is fastened with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower tie bolts of the electric motor at a distance of about 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. A key switch is attached to the front surface of the shield, and capacitors are attached to the back side.

A guide made of a duralumin corner measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 600 mm is attached to the table with MB bolts, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be fixed to the table parallel to the saw blade at the required distance. It is advisable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

At the base of the saw, a trapezoidal cut is made with the dimensions: At the bases of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot serves to dump sawdust from under the disk into a storage plastic bag, which is put on the neck made under the slot and fixed on it with a string or elastic band. Sawdust is useful as a mulch in vegetable gardening, as well as bedding for small animals such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals sawdust from chipboard, etc. use is unacceptable.

During operation, the power saw is installed on a massive stand made of hard boards, for example, birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, place bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a storage case for the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same lugs, but it can also be used as a bin for collecting sawdust, since it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of different cutting and sharpening tools. Speaking about the selection of saw blades, we recommend that you first purchase a rip saw blade with a thickness of 1.6 mm, a diameter of 200 mm with 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the saw motor power is not very significant, so do not try to fit large diameter and thick saw blades; do not purchase blades designed for cross-cutting: if the rip saw also cuts across the fibers quite satisfactorily, then when you try to rip with a cross saw, you will suffer a lot.

It should be borne in mind that when cutting large volumes of chipboard, an ordinary steel saw blade "shrinks" very quickly due to the presence of a variety of solid inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to saw large quantities of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

It is most productive to choose the quarters with a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a bore of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to acquire a cutting disc for metal with a thickness of 3 mm, with a bore diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install discs with a bore diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not be any problem for you. If using a cutter or cut-off wheel, the hole in the worktable may need to be widened slightly.

Drawings of parts that ensure fastening of the universal woodworking head (UDG) to the spindle are shown in Fig. 7. By the way, I had to go to the expenses associated with the acquisition of UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the electric plane "Rebir" of the I-5709 type, made in Latvia, broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively easy work - the anchor of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this plane is extremely low and I should get a more reliable tool. Note that in the case of using the UDG, it will be necessary to make a special working table, since for the passage of the cutters fixed in the head, a hole width of 55 mm is required. Cutters for UDG can be made from commercially available planer knives by processing them on cutting and emery wheels on the same machine.

To avoid damaging the teeth before sawing, the workpiece should be carefully inspected for nails and other inclusions. This rule should be especially strictly observed when processing used wood. If metal inclusions are found, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be turned off immediately, the cause of the overload must be removed and turned back on. The reason for the frequent repetition of these situations can be dull cutting edges of the saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or "velvet" file with a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disc from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work again like a "beast". Along the way, I will note the need to control the spread of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should be approximately 0.6-0.8 mm. Without a divorce, a saw does not like to saw! You should also periodically clean the keyboard player's contacts.

When trimming the edges of non-edged boards, in order to obtain even edges on the board, you must first "beat off" the line using a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would be nice to get an auxiliary support roller that you can take from the squeezing device of the washing machine by fixing it on a stand of the appropriate height ..

By raising the work table, you can set the abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A disc made of plywood with a diameter of up to 250 mm with a glued sandpaper ("button accordion") will allow you to grind parts. The polishing wheel, which is a package of round fabric blanks sandwiched between two discs, will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with a polishing paste.

It is very convenient to store the cutting and fastening tools in a metal can with a diameter of 300 mm from under the film. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed on the bottom of the jar, the saws are stacked (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), wrapped with the ends of the cloth and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. You can attach an eyelet to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, observe the safety rules: be sure to use protective goggles, work in gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers instead of cut ones never grow back, and it is still very difficult to engraft cut ones, despite the tremendous advances in medical science.
I wish you success in your work!

The desire to improve an existing tool comes for a reason. The main goal of such an experiment is cost savings. Indeed, why buy multiple tools when you can use different attachments and make a multi-tool.

The grinder is known to every household homeowner, because with its help you can cut metal, stone, and polish the surface. But you cannot cut trees with such a device; difficulties arise due to the small diameter of the disc. So the craftsmen come up with various attachments that greatly facilitate the work in the garden.

Why do they resort to a homemade option?

Often, it is homemade options for tools or the improvement of existing ones that are done out of a desire to save money. Using improvised tools and parts left over from equipment or machinery that have fallen into disrepair, craftsmen masterfully make various devices, such as, for example, a chain saw from a grinder.

The second reason can be considered the desire to have a multifunctional tool that will help facilitate numerous tasks on the farm. The indisputable advantage of such a home-made device is space saving. After all, an additional nozzle takes up much less space in a shed or garage than a full-fledged device.

For alteration, you can use absolutely any brand of grinder. The only thing worth paying attention to is that factory attachments can only fit a limited number of models, so when buying, be sure to check if your grinder is suitable for the selected attachment.

Factory nozzles

Now on sale there are special attachments for the grinder in addition to discs. The grinder comes with a device with which in a short time it can be turned into a chain saw. Supplied in two separate boxes containing the grinder and the chain saw.

Set of attachments

The estimated cost of such a set is $ 83.

Electric saw from a grinder

Everyone who is faced with woodworking needs to have a saw in the arsenal of tools, with which it is much easier to carry out sawing work. Below is a diagram of the rework of an electric saw, which can be made from a grinder

In order to convert a grinder into an electric saw, you must have with you:

• Welding machine;
• Adapter for cutters;
• Small metal roller;
• Reducer;
• Saw part.

The first thing to do is weld the movable wheel at the end of the boom. It is very important to make sure that this wheel and the contour have the same contour. If this nuance is not taken into account, then the chain will subside or be strongly stretched. After that, an adapter for milling cutters is attached to the wheel. The adapter should not be fixed permanently, it should be removable, otherwise difficulties may arise during operation.

A simple and reliable alteration option is the following method. We take a tire from an old chainsaw, an asterisk and a chain. Two perforated corners are twisted together. In one, cut a hole for the nut. We will attach an asterisk to it, and so that it is possible to attach a corner to the casing.

We attach the bus to the remaining corner. After that, we attach the sprocket and connect the chain. That's all the manipulations, as a result of which we get an effective saw.

Video reviews

The presented video review tells how to make an electric chain saw from a grinder

Another visual video review demonstrating homemade products

The main advice that should not be neglected is the observance of safety precautions when working with such tools. A chain saw or electric saw in a homemade interpretation can be dangerous and traumatic. If you decide to take such a step, then follow all the recommendations, drawings and diagrams that are indicated in the instructions for the adapter.

Circular saws are essential tools for the household. Due to their technical and functional properties, not a single furniture production or carpentry shop can do without them today. And in private households there are many tasks that it would be more expedient to solve with their participation. The only limitation of their operation today is their cost, which grows every year, as does the human need for them. One of the ways to overcome this barrier and acquire such versatile helpers is to assemble a homemade circular saw,

Given the load and duty cycle of electric saws, home production will require an equally reliable basic electrical appliance. Folk craftsmen advise using a grinder or an angle grinder as it, which almost everyone has. Its pulling capacity will be sufficient for sawing wood, unfolding beams into slats and other tasks that most users put before it. Let's consider several ways how to make an electric saw out of a grinder at home.

Do-it-yourself circular electric saw: the easiest way to make

In order to start assembling homemade products, you will need:

• metal clamps;
• electric drill;
• toothed disc;
• several pieces of a metal corner;
• bolt ties of modifications M3 or M5;
• serviceable gearbox;
• high-strength steel rods;
• wrench.

An engine from a household grinder will act as the power base of the future construct.

Work progress step by step

1. from the grinder, they first dismantle the disk installed before;
2. a disc with teeth for woodworking is taken, which is pulled together by the corners. A gap of a few millimeters is left, which is adjusted with a bolt tie;
3. the body of the grinder - the future electric saw is covered with clamps. A double metal tape with a thickness of at least 1.5 mm is passed through the lower part of the tool;
4. the grinder's gearbox is pre-disassembled. You need to make holes in it for fastening the handle. The last part can be made of a metal tube, the shape of which should be slightly rounded;
5. to adjust the gaps between the side stop and the base surface, 4 holes are drilled in the gearbox for screwing in the bolts;
6. the handle is bolted to the gearbox. Its outwardly protruding end of the electric saw is given a horizontal position, holes are drilled and the axis is fed. If the handle is D-shaped, an adapter is installed between the handle and the gearbox - a tube made of thick-walled metal;
7. the rods are cut into 6 cm blanks, which are given a loop-like shape;
8. washers are fixed in front of the stop, which corrects the gap;
9. the handle is attached to the body with an electric motor.

When you supplement such an electric saw from a grinder with your own hands with a stationary base made of chipboard or stable plywood, you can make a stationary circular electric saw for a workbench or desktop.

In both cases, it is very important not to be mistaken with the choice of the disc and correctly calculate the gear ratio. It is advisable to focus on single-phase asynchronous motors, which are equipped with most angle grinders. Three-phase motor systems, which can also take place in a similar design, should not be used without additional capacitors. A separate button can be displayed as a starting capacitor. In this option, you will need to think over additional grounding and check the electrical safety of the homemade product.

Electric chain saw from a grinder: step by step instructions

In order to recreate a chain saw on the basis of a working grinder, we will need:

• the Bulgarian herself;
• a leading sprocket, which is best to buy a new one, but if you have a serviceable spare part from an old saw, you can limit yourself to a used option;
• metal to create a bracket to which the rail will be connected;
• a set of a saw headset from a bar and a chain;
• a set of tools, including a drill;
• bolts.

The build process looks like this:

1. 1. unscrew the saw blade from the grinder;
   2. make holes in the lower part of the metal casing of the device;
   3. bolts attach the bracket to the protective shield;

1. 1. an asterisk is wound on the motor shaft;

1. a guide is fixed behind the braces of the bracket;
2. after the chain is put on and straightened, the bracket bolts are tightly fixed.

After that, you can start working.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade electric saws from a grinder

Electric saws, which today can not only be bought in a store, but also made at home, in addition to their main advantage - low cost of production, have a lot of weaknesses. Namely:

• low level of safety for the health and life of the operator working - in homemade products there is no protection against kickback, which in factory electric saws is taken over by the inertial chain brake. And this increases the likelihood of injury and injury;
• fragility of tire-chain elements due to the lack of automatic lubrication. The only way out in this situation is to periodically dip a homemade saw into a container of chain oil;
• high risk of overheating of the motor from the grinder due to overload and prolonged operation.

Unlike a standard chainsaw, a home-made electric saw on a battery lags noticeably behind in power. However, at the same time it has other obvious advantages: compact size and mobility - the power saw can be easily disassembled and put in a backpack. In general, despite the low power, it will still be useful.

To make a homemade electric saw, you will need a piece of sheet metal 3 mm thick, from which you will need to cut the base for the body. You will also need a short bar, fasteners, and a length of saw chain.

The main stages of work

First of all, we cut out the case to which the electric motor will be attached. Then, on a lathe, we grind a steel pulley onto the drive shaft of the engine. To make a homemade cordless electric saw, you need a small bus and a piece of chain of a suitable length.

Then you need to make a wooden handle, in which you will need to drill a hole and install the power on / off button.

In the next step, we make a whole 24V battery pack from 18650 rechargeable batteries. Contact plates are welded using resistance welding. A full battery charge will last for one hour of continuous operation of the saw.

It is necessary to make a persistent handle from a piece of steel round pipe to make it easier to saw. Then we start assembling the entire structure. The result is a compact power saw that runs on a rechargeable battery.

When working at home, you should always be able to make a tool with your own hands. A self-made circular will perform its duties no worse than a factory analogue, and its maintenance and dismantling will be much easier. In special cases, the circular saw can be converted into a radial or grinder, which has its own very pleasant moments.

You can make a circular saw yourself, for this you need to have good drawings and tools.

Working with a saw and grinder

Tools and materials:

• grinder 150-180 mm;
• drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• steel clamps;
• sheet steel;
• pliers.

Before making the circular yourself, you need to try to make it from other tools. Most often, the process is organized with the help of a grinder, because it can be remade much faster and easier than any other analogs.

The easiest option is to spoil the tool the best. For him, you will need to screw the tool to the base using self-tapping screws for metal. If desired, you can make through holes with a drill and tighten with bolts and nuts, which will be much more reliable in operation, because the tool will no longer break the thread in case of strong tension. The only nuance that should be taken into account is the factory imbalance of the instrument, due to which it will be necessary to fix it in the most careful way so that there is not even a small probability of movement.

If desired, you can complicate this design, moreover, this will save the instrument from unnecessary intrusions inside. For fastening, you will need steel clamps, which grip the tool at 3-4 points, and then fix it on the bolts from 2 sides. This design is very reliable, but special attention should be paid to the quality of fixation in order to avoid even small misunderstandings.

For those cases when the tool is made stationary, you can use more powerful options for angle grinders. The grinder itself is attached to the reduction gear with bolts or self-tapping screws (it depends on the ability to make a joint without damaging the tool, because sometimes the attachment points do not match), after which they are installed together on the tabletop and screwed in the highest quality way.

The most reliable method will be the most difficult at the same time, because the support of a milling turner will be required. His task is only to grind a special part, which would be suitable in terms of its parameters for coupling a grinder and a tabletop. This method of coupling is the most reliable, besides, even microscopic movements are excluded, which is not possible to achieve in every factory tool.

It should be borne in mind that in any case, the protective casing is removed, and instead, a homemade one is made of sheet steel. It will no longer be possible to use the mount for the casing due to the fact that it is used for hitching, and the homemade product should be mounted directly to the tabletop. To make it, you need to cut out a semicircle from sheet steel, at which the end is bent and clamped with pliers. This design will withstand any surprises after it can be screwed on.

When choosing a grinder, you need to be extremely careful so that the number of revolutions is low and the power is high. If the speed exceeds 4500 rpm, you will have to use reduction gears, because otherwise the cutters will grind off very quickly.

It is very important to remember that in no case should a circular made from a grinder be remade back, because for this reason, every day in all parts of the world, people are admitted to hospitals with injuries of varying severity. Even if the grinder is urgently needed, and there is no other option, it is better to be patient, because even factory protection will most likely not save.

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Changing the saw

Tools and materials:

Circular saw carriage diagram.

• chain Saw;
• steel flat roller;
• cutter attachment;
• reduction gear;
• welding machine.

Electric saws and chainsaws are a gift from the 20th century that fits very harmoniously into life, but there are situations when it is desirable to remake them, which is not easy enough. It should be noted in advance that this alteration is of a momentary nature, but if you wish, you can repeat it over and over again without any damage (replacement will take some time).

In order to get a circular, you only need to weld the movable wheel at the very end of the boom, and cut off the end itself. The wheel should ideally follow the contour of the cut-off element so that the chain does not stretch and fall off during movement.

An adapter for milling cutters is attached to the side of the wheel. This adapter is removable to make it easy to cut with the chain.

With a high-quality revision, the wheel will not harm the working qualities of the chainsaw in the absence of cutters at this moment. In addition, the basic operating speed allows you to do without serious third-party modifications.

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Using an electric motor

Tools and materials:

• asynchronous motor;
• sheet steel;
• wires;
• reduction gear;
• bolts with nuts;
• adapter for cutters;
• pliers.

There are many electric motors, with the most popular being collector, synchronous and asynchronous motors. For this activity, the asynchronous option is suitable, since it has the highest power ratings, low revs and a huge margin of endurance.

It will be very simple to make a circular out of it, so everything can be done in stages:

1. An engine of 4000-4500 rpm is selected, with a power of 2-3 kW and power from a 220 V outlet. If an engine with such parameters was not found, then you will have to use a gearbox that will bring the number of revolutions to the required one. The connection is made using bolts and nuts, but it is advisable not to resort to self-tapping screws, because they can cause significant harm.
2. Now you need to choose which attachment will be: chains or cutters. The cutters grind quickly, but produce a thinner cut, which results in greater precision. Chains grind down much more slowly, but when working they have several times more sawdust. Most often, preference is given to cutters, because the base price of wood with them comes out a little cheaper, and the quality of the cut is higher.
3. An adapter for cutters is attached to the motor shaft. If a gearbox was used, then it must be attached to the gearbox. In this case, the joint is made without welding, so that, if necessary, you can replace the nozzle with any digestible one.

At the very end, a protective cover is made of sheet steel according to the method described above. The casing is attached to the gearbox or motor so that there are no complications.