Reproduction of echeveria leaves
Petr Lapshin

As you know, many representatives of the Tolstyankov family easily reproduce by leaves. For varietal echeveria, graptoveria and other hybrids, propagation by leaves is the main method of distribution. In this material, we illustrate the process of such reproduction using the example of a large batch of leaves of three species of Echeveria (Echeveria shaviana, Echeveria cv. Perle Von Nurnberg, Echeveria X desmetiana) and a biologically similar "tacitus" (Graptopetalum bellum).

The leaves are separated from the outlet, dried, create conditions for rooting, after which the leaf forms a small new outlet, from which a new plant grows. It usually takes 3-6 months.

The leaf must be separated from the mother plant as a whole so that no part of it remains on the stem, since Crassulaceae already have reproduction buds at the base of the leaf and if it is damaged, then plants from the leaf usually do not develop. In some species, the leaves are separated very easily (in our case, these are E. Perle Von Nurnberg and E. X desmetiana), in others they are held very firmly (E. shaviana and G. bellum) and when you try to separate them, the base usually remains on the plant and such a leaf can take root, but does not form a rosette. For such plants, it is necessary to use a sharp tool in order, nevertheless, to pick off the entire leaf and keep its base intact. The echeveria leaf has short “wings” on the sides, which partially cover the stem, and if one of them is damaged, then the leaf is easily separated further.

The leaves were taken from "Dutch" plants at the end of March. For E. shaviana, E. X desmetiana and G. bellum, these were the lowest (oldest) and middle leaves in the rosette, which constituted the growth of the previous season, approximately 20-40 leaves from each rosette. For E. "Perle Von Nurnberg", young adult leaves were taken, 3-4 pieces each. from a plant. The total number of leaves for this experiment was approximately 5000 for E. shaviana, 500 each for G. bellum and E. "Perle Von Nurnberg" and 70 for E. X desmetiana.

Leaves of G. bellum

Leaves of G. bellum, E. "Perle Von Nurnberg", E. nodulosa, E. atropurpurea, Graptoveria cv. Debbie

After separation from the mother plant, the vegetative planting material of almost all succulent plants must be air-dried (3-30 days) to dry the damaged tissues. Otherwise, when in contact with wet substrates, there will be a high percentage of decay. After separation, the leaves were stored for about a week in bulk in a layer of 2-4 leaves in the light (in the shade) at a temperature of 15C at night and 25-30C during the day and low relative humidity. In E. shaviana and E. X desmetiana, during the first week, mass drying of a part of the leaves, approximately 15-20% of the total, was observed. Apparently, these were the oldest leaves that were not able to give rise to a new plant. In E. "Perle Von Nurnberg" primary leaf loss was less than 10%, in G. bellum no noticeable leaf loss was noted.

To root succulent plants, they are not placed in water and do not create high humidity. Because of this, many of them easily rot. Planting material is rooted immediately in the ground or in some loose mineral, but not organic substrate: sand, perlite, vermiculite, etc. Peat is not recommended because of the large number of microorganisms living in it and to which succulents are not resistant. The leaves are laid out on the surface of a moist loose substrate, without sticking or burying their base. In our case, we used coarse quartz sand (fraction 1-2 mm) and perlite (fraction 1-3 mm) as a substrate. The substrate was poured in a layer of 2–3 cm into cuvettes with a hole in the bottom to drain excess water. The leaves were laid out sideways, close to each other. They did this solely because of the need to place a very large amount of planting material in a reasonable area. In the usual case, it is sufficient to lay the leaves upside down on any loose substrate into which the roots can penetrate.

Dishes with leaves are placed in diffused light: not in the sun, but not in the dark either. In our case, we placed cuvettes under fluorescent lamps. Illumination was 2000-3000 lux, 16-hour photoperiod, temperature was about 25C, relative air humidity was low.

The leaves usually root within 2-3 weeks. After that, within 1-2 months, they lay small rosettes, which begin to develop slowly. There are usually 2-3 sockets, sometimes more. In some cases, a leaf can immediately form a rosette without rooting. The mother leaf, if the conditions are unfavorable or it was old, can die at any stage: without rooting, with roots but without a rosette, or at the stage of a rosette that has just begun to develop. If the rosette is so small that it cannot develop on its own or does not have its own roots, it dies.

The appearance of rosettes at the leaves usually occurs after 2-3 months. The primary roots of a rosette-leaf pair belong to the leaf, and the rosette uses not only them, but also the supply of nutrients and the photosynthetic potential of the mother leaf. After the rosette forms its own roots, the mother leaf dies after a while. If the leaves were rooted in a poor substrate: sand or perlite, immediately after the death of the mother leaf, it makes sense to transplant them into ordinary soil (for succulents).

Leaves E. "Perle Von Nurnberg" with children

Leaves of G. bellum with babies

Land for succulents should be something like this: 1 part street, forest, garden, gray soil + 1 part grassroots black structureless highly decomposed peat (or any purchased "land for indoor flowers") + 1 part coarse sand or any other baking powder: perlite, vermiculite, fine expanded clay, brick or foam chips, etc. It is not advisable to plant in pure peat or in purchased "soil for flowers", even if the package proudly says "land for cacti", because. there is usually solid peat in which succulents easily rot. Pots initially take small ones, about 5-7 cm in diameter. Water after the soil looks dry.

Plants in summer under favorable conditions develop quite quickly: in a month you can get a rosette with a diameter of about 3 cm, in another month 5 cm. 5.5 cm, 5-10 rosettes per pot. The diameter of the rosettes was 0.5-1 cm. Some of the rosettes had roots, and some were without roots. They rooted for about 1 week in diffused light. As soon as rooting took place, the active growth of young plants immediately began.

In some cases, each leaf can give more than one rosette. It depends on the variety, the condition of the mother plant and the conditions in which the leaves are located during reproduction. We have E. Perle Von Nurnberg gave 1 outlet, E. X desmetiana 1-2 each, E. shaviana and G. bellum - 2-3 outlets.

Leaves of E. X desmetiana with children

Echeveria babies in pots with a diameter of 5.5 cm

Echeveria babies in pots with a diameter of 5.5 cm

Photos taken in March and June 2008 in the collection of Petr Lapshin in Moscow

Echeveria is a plant from the succulent family, which has more than 100 species. Relatives of echeveria are fat woman, money tree, aloe, which are in every home.

This interesting plant in nature grows in South and Central America, mainly in the mountains in hot summers and mild winters. Echeveria perfectly adapted to Russian climatic conditions. It is because of the peculiarity of growth that it received another name - “stone rose”.

Caring for echeveria at home is not difficult, and the ability to create mix compositions from succulents makes this plant so popular among flower growers. If you create ideal conditions for echeveria, it will please with a healthy appearance.

Description of echeveria

Echeveria (Echeveria) - the brightest representative of the Crassulaceae family, an evergreen shrub succulent with a shortened stem. In nature, there are about two hundred varieties of this plant. Common features for all varieties are the presence of a fibrous superficial root system, fleshy leaves, collected in a rosette.

The variety of echeveria species allows enthusiasts to collect real collections.

In nature, echeveria grows in the countries of Mexico and Latin America, on arid plains and small mountains with the maximum amount of sunlight, lack of regular moisture and rocky soil.

This species lends itself well to selection, which allows you to create a huge number of hybrids with excellent decorative qualities.

• The leaf plate is from 3 cm to 30 cm, it is cylindrical or oval in shape, covered with a wax coating, the tip of the leaf is pointed.
• The color of the rosette varies from light green to gray, purple and red-brown tones.
• The height of some species reaches 70 cm.
• The flowers of the plant are bell-shaped, orange, red and yellow-green colors are found.
• Echeveria flowers are like bluebells.

The second name of the flower - stone rose - he received due to the appearance of the rosette. This is also the name of some related Echeveria plants.

Comparison with a plant rejuvenated

1. Young (sempervivum) is distinguished by its frost resistance, as well as a special way of reproduction - it produces "whiskers" on which "babies" are formed.
2. The leaf plate of the young is thinner and lighter.
3. Due to the lack of stems, the outlet is located directly on the substrate.
4. The juvenile, unlike echeveria, has practically no stem.

On the contrary, Echeveria is very thermophilic, and with a lack of light, its stem can stretch. The formation of "children" occurs at the very base of the stem.

Name confusion

In some sources you can see the name Echeveria. By and large, both names are correct. The name Echeveria in Spanish sounds like Echeveria.

• If we turn to Latin, which is usually used in botany, then the name will sound like Echeveria. And in all Russian-language botanical publications (beginning with pre-revolutionary and ending with post-Soviet ones), the succulent is represented by this very name.
• Recently, even at international conferences, the question of changing the Latin names to those that were originally given by the discoverers of plants was raised.

In the people, the plant is even called "stone rose" or "stone flower". But this is not so important.

The main thing is that this spectacular Mexican handsome man has long taken root in our homes, and for many has become a favorite houseplant. And it got its name thanks to the Mexican artist Anastasio Echeverria, who painted illustrations for books describing the flora of Mexico.

This plant is widely used to create home vertical gardens or flower arrangements with succulents and cacti.

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Types and varieties of echeveria

In nature, there are about 150 species, but only a few are grown indoors.

Graceful

This species has a grayish - bluish shade of leaves, and the rosette itself is presented in a flat shape. The shoots of the plant are straight, but with age they become horizontal and creep. Shoots are able to take root in the soil on their own.

1. In a large individual, the rosette reaches up to 15 cm in diameter, and its offspring are located on high lateral shoots.
2. The length of the leaf reaches up to 5 cm, and the width is 2 cm. The inflorescences have a pink tint, or a bright scarlet hue with a yellow border on top.

Agave

This species grows in one compact rosette reaching almost 30 cm in diameter.

• Shoots are either short or none at all.
• The foliage is oblong and resembles a triangle.
• The leaf surface is smooth and glossy; the leaf is about 9 cm long and 6 cm wide.
• The pedicel appears in the center of the rosette, and reaches almost 40 cm.
• Inflorescences have a yellowish scarlet hue.
• The leaf has a rich green tint with a scarlet edging along the edge.

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Derenberg

Its individuality lies in the fact that a large number of shoots are attached to it, which spread.

• Rosettes are about 6 cm in diameter.
• The shade of the leaves is whitish or bluish olive with a scarlet border along the top.
• The leaf is about 4 cm long and 2 cm wide.
• Flowers in the form of spikelets consists of 5 flowers.
• Pedicel about 6 cm high.

Echeveria succulent due to its grayish-blue hue is called echeveria sizaya . But the inflorescences of this variety have an orange hue and are attached to the side.

Lau

• This is a succulent perennial species with an overgrown rosette about 20 cm in diameter.
• The foliage is about 6 cm long, and due to its matte coating it has an almost white tint.
• The inflorescences are large, unlike other varieties, about two centimeters.
• The hue of the flowers is orange, also with some bloom.

bristly

This is a bush type.

1. Shoots are very small or absent.
2. Poured almost spherical rosettes represent almost hundreds of dark olive leaves.
3. The shape of the leaves is like a shoulder blade with a sharp end.
4. The leaf length is 9 cm, and the width is about 3 cm. Flowering occurs in the summer.
5. The color of the flower is yellowish-orange.

• This is a succulent plant with a poured fleshy rosette up to 15 cm in diameter.
• The shade of the leaves with a slight green.
• Inflorescences are presented in lateral five-membered.
• The shade of the flower is scarlet-chocolate or orange and is on a high stem.

Desmet

Perennial species with a neat rosette with a bluish tinge of leaves.

• Over the years, the plant grows a creeping shoot.
• The color of the flower is yellow-orange.
• Flowering occurs in mid-summer.

Pulidonis

1. It has elongated dense leaves with a scarlet edging.
2. The shape of the rosette is in the form of a star.

Miranda

1. Represents leaves with a point at the ends.
2. This species has a varied shade of bluish, scarlet, pink or yellow.
3. The appearance of the flower resembles a lotus.

Nodulose

It's called differently nodular and has a shoot of about 20 cm. The leaves have a red edging along the edge. Inflorescences are scarlet brown, bloom in March.

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Landing after purchase

A new echeveria bought in a store needs to be transplanted urgently. Usually, the soil in which the plant goes on sale is unable to provide normal living conditions for the flower for a long time.

Subsequently, to maintain the decorativeness of the plant, it is transplanted every two to three years.

Plants need to be transplanted, the sockets of which strongly protrude beyond the edges of the container.

For young specimens, an annual transplant may be required.

Under natural conditions, echeveria prefers rocky substrates that do not retain moisture.

Soil composition for planting

For growing in a pot, the optimal mixture is:

• stones,
• sod land,
• sand (1:2:1),
• a small amount of charcoal.

You can use standard cactus soil, to which you should add any fine drainage.

Pot

The pot is chosen wide, low, ceramic is best. Depending on the diameter, one or more drainage holes are made in the bottom.

It is best to choose low ceramic pots for planting echeveria, the diameter of which corresponds to the size of the outlet.

The transplant procedure is as follows:

1. Spread drainage from stones, tiles or expanded clay for about ¼ capacity.
2. The soil mixture is calcined for disinfection.
3. Top up with prepared substrate.
4. The transplanted plant is removed from the old soil, diseased and damaged roots are inspected and cut off. Slices sprinkled with activated charcoal
5. Echeveria is buried in well-moistened soil.
   

   In the first week, additional soil moisture is not needed.

How to make a composition-mix of succulents in the florarium

It is currently very popular to grow echeveria, alone or in combination with other succulents, in a florarium (a small vegetable greenhouse), recreating the original desert or semi-desert landscape from one or more flower varieties.

Echeveria will go well with plants such as:

• kalanchoe,
• haworthia,
• cacti, both forest and desert,
• lithops,
• spurge,
• fat woman.

For the florarium, it is better to choose compact varieties of echeveria.

The process of creating a composition

To make a florarium:

1. Take a glass transparent container of sufficient size, wipe it from the inside with alcohol.
2. Prepare succulents for planting, wash their roots, dip for 30 seconds in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Pour a quarter of the height of a layer of oven-baked or otherwise disinfected drainage mixed with crushed activated charcoal.
4. Then pour the same layer of soil on top.
5. Use tweezers to plant several echeverias of different varieties or create an arrangement of succulents.
6. Decorate the free space of the soil: fill it with pebbles or colored soil (you can take an aquarium one), place the figures if you wish.
7. Water the plants gently with a small watering can.

It is not necessary to cover the florarium with succulents with glass, they prefer dry air. As a care, provide bright light and less frequent watering compared to succulents grown in pots.

Be prepared for the fact that sooner or later your florarium will become cramped for your plants and it will have to be “populated” again.

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Echeveria plant care at home

The plant is completely unpretentious, and with proper simple care, it rarely gets sick and is quite resistant to pests. Be careful with the leaves of the plant - they are very fragile.

Temperature

Most Echeveria species grow in the highlands of Mexico, where the humidity is low and the temperature is not too high during the day, on average not higher than + 30 ° C, but there are quite sharp daily temperature fluctuations.

• Therefore, the optimal conditions for growth are 22-26°C during the day and 16-20°C at night (a daily difference between day and night temperatures of 10°C is ideal).
• At temperatures above 32 ° C, move the pots to a cooler place or provide shade.

Echeveria are very demanding on fresh air, closed unventilated rooms are not for them, if possible, ventilate or place pots in the fresh air as often as possible (balcony, canopy, veranda).

1. In winter, the temperature should be lowered - ideal conditions for the winter period are + 15-16 ° C during the day, about + 8 ° C at night, with a significant limitation of irrigation.
2. Many species of echeveria grow in nature in colder conditions, when at night the temperature drops to + 4-6 ° C, but Dutch (Polish and others) plants grown in greenhouses, especially varietal and hybrid ones, are more capricious and do not tolerate such harsh conditions, for them it is enough to set a minimum of + 12 ° С.
3. However, constant year-round cultivation in warm room conditions, especially with a lack of light in the fall and winter, seriously depletes succulents. If it is impossible to provide a cool overwintering, additional lighting is required.

Lighting

Echeveria needs very good bright diffused light during the day, direct sun in the morning or evening.

• In central Russia, shading is from 12:00 to 16:00 from March to August (February weather permitting).
• North-facing windows are too dark. In the period from September to the end of January, shading is not required, and if the room is warm, then ideally you should put the pots on the southern windowsill, or organize additional lighting with lamps (daylight, fluorescent) so that the total daylight hours is 12-14 hours.

In terms of lighting, try to avoid three things: north facing windows, sudden changes in sunlight, and scorching afternoon sun in spring and summer.

Dramatic changes in lighting cause stress in plants. If you are moving pots from overwintering to fresh air in the spring, do so gradually.

1. Two to three hours of morning sun, for a week (the rest of the time shading with gauze, tulle, white paper), then a couple more hours longer in the sun and so on, until they get used to living in full sun all day. After accustoming to the sun on some days, shading may still be needed!
2. The danger is not so much the sun itself (after all, the leaves are covered with a protective wax coating), but the heat - the plants can overheat, dry out and bend from heatstroke.
3. In the southern regions, the sun is too aggressive and the leaves get burned, so consider the climatic features of your region.

Watering

In the warm season (spring-summer or warm wintering) watering is regular and plentiful, in the cold period (winter and summer when it gets cold) watering is moderate. What does it mean:

• abundant watering - the frequency of watering immediately after the soil is completely dry, on the same day or the next day (depending on temperature)
• moderate watering - watering frequency - after the soil has completely dried, watering after a few days, depending on the temperature, for example, at 18 ° C - after drying, wait 3-4 days, if 14 ° C - about 7-10 days, if + 8 ° C C - watering once a month or less.

Why the temperature spread: it depends on how stable they are, because there are daily fluctuations and fluctuations during the month, which means that the grower needs to navigate and make a decision himself. Remember that when the temperature drops, it is better to underfill than overfill.

General watering rules:

1. Do not pour water on the leaves and base of the rosette.
2. Use only soft water (filtered, boiled), it is not allowed to use water softening reagents, except for special products for the preparation of aquarium water (topical fish).
3. After watering, the soil should be completely wetted, after a strong drying, if the water does not seep immediately or quickly flows down the walls of the pot, you need to spill it several times in a row, then drain the water from the pan, this ensures that all the soil and root mass get wet. With uneven wetting, part of the roots remains overdried and dies off.
4. Before the next watering, the soil in the pot should be completely dry.

Don't keep the soil wet for too long, if the pot doesn't dry out in more than 1-2 days, then you have the wrong soil! In general, Echeveria do not like constant dampness or dryness of the soil.

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The soil

You can purchase ready-made soil for succulents, half of which consists of sand. And if you want to prepare a mixture for echeveria yourself, then in addition to sand, you will also need equal proportions of leaf and sod land.

• This composition is also suitable: one part of peat and loamy soil and two parts of coarse sand.
• At the base of the plant, an additional layer of sand will not interfere. This is necessary to improve drainage.
• In addition, echeveria looks more attractive this way. Drainage should occupy a third of the volume of the pot.

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Air humidity

Spraying is not required for this plant.

1. Echeveria does not require spraying, prefers dry air.
2. At high humidity, the bluish wax coating on the leaves disappears, protecting the plant from diseases and sunburn.
3. Leaves of non-pubescent species are wiped with a damp soft cloth to avoid pest infestation.

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Echeveria transplant

Young specimens are transplanted annually, in the spring, adults - only as needed. This must be done very carefully, as the plant is easily damaged.

Flat, wide containers with a well-equipped drainage system are best suited for planting. A drainage layer of clay shards, expanded clay or pebbles should occupy about 1/3 of the pot.

Stone rose prefers a neutral, low-nutrient loose substrate, which can be based on a ready-made specialized mixture for succulents.

Coarse-grained river sand, fine gravel or brick chips and crushed charcoal must be added to it to prevent root rot.

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Echeveria bloom

In the phase of active growth, which usually occurs in the summer, when it is warm and there is a lot of light, it is worth feeding the “rose”. Especially when it blooms, but not more than once a month, as excessive feeding can damage the plant. You can use store-bought fertilizer for succulents.

If the plant is transplanted, then there are enough nutrients in the fresh soil and the plant does not need to be fed for two months.

The main condition for flowering echeveria is the intensity of the light flux.

• Each species blooms at its own time. If you successfully select a collection and organize artificial supplementary lighting, then you can watch their flowering for a whole year.
• Sometimes pets for some reason do not want to bloom. They need to increase daylight hours to 12-13 hours for 1.5-2 months and maintain a temperature of 15 to 18 ° C.
• During this period, the plant will begin to vegetate quickly, and the first buds will appear. And then charming gentle bells.

The flowers are successfully pollinated and viable seeds ripen in the resulting bolls.

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Reproduction of echeveria

Echeveria propagate by seeds and vegetatively, that is, leaf blades, lateral rosettes or cut tops.

seeds

This is a rather time-consuming process, and it is used mainly by breeders. The result is hybrids with new decorative properties. If, nevertheless, the seeds in the box are ripe and you want to experiment, then you need to:

1. In early spring, scatter seeds over the surface of loose, moist soil.
2. Cover them with glass or transparent film.
3. Provide a temperature of 20-22 degrees and regularly ventilate and spray.

After 15–20 days, sprouts will appear, and after 2–3 months, small rosettes are transplanted into separate pots.

Echeveria seeds are scattered over the surface of the soil without deepening

leaf

Procedure:

1. For propagation by leaf blades, you need to carefully unscrew the lower healthy leaf so that not a single piece of it remains on the stem. Indeed, in this family, reproduction buds are formed at the base of the leaf blade and, if it is injured, rosettes from such a leaf in most cases do not develop.
2. Leave the separated sheet to dry for several days - dry it so that it does not rot when it comes into contact with moist soil.
3. At an angle, slightly deepen the sheet in wet sand, perlite or vermiculite, or simply spread the sheets over the surface, placing them in diffused light.

Leaves take root within 2-3 weeks. Planted all in one bowl, the children develop together, sometimes several from one sheet. And after 2-4 years, the resulting rosettes will bloom.

Echeveria leaf cuttings root easily

To propagate with a rosette, the following operations must be carried out:

1. Carefully cut off the top with a sharp knife.
2. Leave it for a few days so that the end of the stem dries out without touching the damp ground, otherwise it may rot.
3. After the end is completely dry, you need to leave the outlet on a damp surface until young roots appear.

It is practically not necessary to deepen the cutting

Everything - the top is ready for landing. A nice bowl, loose earth, moderate watering - and the young rosette will confidently grow. By the way, the mother plant will also continue to grow.

After removing the top, new rosettes usually appear on the stem.

When propagating with lateral rosettes, it is also necessary to carefully cut off the stem below the soil level with a sharp knife, which connects the “baby” with the mother plant and try to leave as many roots that have appeared on the stem as possible. Wither the tip - and the socket is ready for transplantation.

1. Lateral rosettes can also be called those that in some Echeveria are formed on the stem after separation of the apical rosette.
2. They need to be allowed to grow well, and then cut off under the very base and simply put on loose, possibly wet, ground.
3. And don't push it. The emerging roots will quickly catch on to the soil.

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Growing problems

If the winter for echeveria was too warm and dimly lit, the rosettes are drawn out, the leaves sit loosely, loosely, and are too pale at the base. They will not change appearance if conditions improve, so it is easier to renew the plant from a leaf (re-root individual leaves).

• The most common problems in Echeveria are due to improper watering.
• You can not water with a verified frequency by day or hour.
• The reference point for irrigation is exclusively weather conditions, temperature and the rate of drying of the soil.
• Any violations - overdrying or waterlogging can cause wilting, wrinkling and death of the leaves. Watch for climate change, make adjustments.

The most dangerous moments are the off-season periods, for example, when the heating is turned off in the spring or the temperature drops sharply in August - changes in temperature and humidity greatly affect the rate of evaporation of water from the soil and watering is needed more rarely.

On especially hot days in the summer, in small pots, the earth can dry out in just hours. If you accidentally forget to open a window on a sunny balcony, the plants will burn or suffocate.

Soldering heavily overdried specimens will not help, in order to protect plants from drying out during the hot period, do not leave them in sunny places or shade the pots by wrapping them in white paper; transplant in time (if the ends of the leaves protrude beyond the edge of the pot); water in the morning, if by the evening the heat does not subside, and the soil has dried up, water again.

Diseases

In general, echeverias can be characterized as follows: they are drought-resistant plants when there is no extreme heat. In an apartment, the ideal place for them is the windowsill of a southeast window or a very bright east window.

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Pests

A serious danger is

1. mealybugs,
2. fungal infections (powdery mildew)
3. root rot (from constant dampness).

To protect the plants from the worm, sterilize the soil before planting. Regularly inspect the plants displayed on the open balcony or in the garden, paying special attention to the root zone, the base of the outlet. Actara treatment (spraying and watering).

Powdery mildew becomes noticeable in the form of a whitish, as if powdered with flour plaque on the leaves. It can get in with the wind if infected trees and shrubs grow under the windows, in which case the leaves must be treated with fungicides (for example, Topaz).

To avoid root and stem rot, adjusting irrigation according to climatic conditions and properly selected soil (drying for no longer than 2 days) will help, and as a preventive measure, it will not hurt to water the soil with a solution of biofungicides in the off-season.

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Signs and superstitions

Echeveria belongs to the Crassulaceae family and is widely distributed in nature on the plains and mountainous regions of Mexico and America.

In the people it is also called rejuvenated, hare cabbage and stone rose.

Indeed, the similarity with a rose is simply amazing: juicy petals of the most diverse colors form a rosette, reminiscent of everyone's favorite flower. Numerous signs and superstitions are associated with the stone rose, which will be discussed in this article.

Signs associated with the stone rose flower

• In the Middle Ages, young people densely covered the roofs of houses. It was believed that they were able to protect buildings from lightning strikes. Allegedly, Charlemagne himself sacredly believed in this and forced his subjects to follow his command.
• It is thanks to this belief that a variety of young roofing plants has survived to this day, which is distinguished by the most diverse colors of leaves and a large dense peduncle, consisting of 40–100 flowers.
• Today, rabbit cabbage is no longer found on the roofs of houses, but it is widely used in landscape design, in particular, decorating paths and borders, creating alpine slides, etc.

The plant is quite unpretentious to the quality of the soil and the ambient temperature, but some varieties are still recommended to be brought into the house for the winter. In this regard, many are interested in whether it is possible to keep a stone rose at home, because the signs regarding this are generally unfavorable.

It is believed that young is a cemetery flower and is completely unsuitable for growing at home. Everything here will depend on how the person himself relates to these superstitions, because not only young people are grown on the graves, but also tulips, daffodils, which no one considers to be cemetery flowers.

The tulip has been the symbol of International Women's Day for decades.

Signs applicable to the stone rose

This flower is widely used not only for landscaping the site, but also for decorating the office, because it fits perfectly into any minimalist interior and does not require special care. It is not watered often, and there is no need to select the optimal side of the world - the plant feels great under the sun.

All negative signs about a stone rose in the house are completely untenable, because it is even included in wedding bouquets, and in organizing such an event, everything, every little thing matters. Therefore, you should not be afraid of anything and try to plant this beautiful unusual flower on your windowsill, which will delight the eye at any time of the year.

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Is the plant poisonous?

There were no categorical contraindications or acute negative reactions to the substance in the treatment with this plant. For a long time, young was considered a powerful antidote. But, it is worth noting that only the leaves of the plant have useful properties.

Consumption in food or for the preparation of medicines can not be used:

• plant cuttings
• fleshy stems
• plant seeds
• plant flowers

The use of prohibited parts of the plant can lead to poisoning and poor health. Just as carefully, you should eat young in its fresh, unprocessed form. For medicinal purposes, exotic plant species should not be used.

Application in traditional medicine

Traditional medicine actively uses the stone rose for medicinal purposes:

• For migraines
• At elevated temperature
• For the treatment of wounds
• For the treatment of ulcers
• To eliminate women's pain
• For the treatment of hemorrhoids
• To eliminate freckles
• To eliminate warts
• For the treatment of eczema and psoriasis
• For the treatment of diathesis
• For the treatment of heart failure

Stone rose is also used for:

1. Preparation of decoctions
2. Preparation of infusions and tinctures on alcohol
3. Preparation of lotions and compresses
4. Preparation of pastes and ointments

If there are no individual contraindications, young people are allowed to use fresh. It is allowed to eat raw only the leaves of the plant, which, in their taste, are somewhat reminiscent of broccoli. In some cases, the leaves should be poured over with boiling water and crushed for oral administration.

Medicinal properties, recipes

For the treatment of hemorrhoids

1. In this case, you should use a paste from the plant. The leaves should be blanched (dipped in boiling water) and chopped.
2. You can grind the leaves by crushing or send them to a blender.
3. The paste is placed in a gauze bag and applied to the anus.

Use of crushed young

• For healing wounds after mowing insects: mosquitoes, bedbugs, flies, ticks, ants, wasps, bees and so on.
• For lightening freckles and age spots on the face. In this case, it is recommended to make masks by mixing the paste with honey.
• To treat warts, apply a small amount of paste to the affected area.
• For the healing of calluses on the legs and arms. Apply crushed young as a compress.

A decoction of youth for the treatment of the stomach

1. To cure ulcers, gastritis and other diseases of the stomach, as well as the digestive tract, a decoction made from young will help.
2. Approximately a tablespoon of chopped leaves of the plant is poured into a thermos. Rejuvenated is poured with boiling water and infused for about two hours.
3. To use such a decoction should be strictly before eating (for half an hour). The dosage of an adult is three large spoons.

Infusion of young

1. Leaves of medium size (about twenty pieces) pour a full glass of boiling water.
2. Leaves should be infused for about two hours in a thermal dish.
3. After that, the infusion is filtered and used for its intended purpose for various peptic ulcers.

Tincture of young

• Rinse twenty sheets of youth with running water and place in a glass dish (a small jar is half a liter)
• Leaves are filled with alcohol or vodka. The jar is put away in a dark, cool place for storage.
• The medicine should be infused for about ten days (at least a week) and then put into the refrigerator for storage.

For medicinal purposes, you can also use the most ordinary leaves that can be applied to wounds for their healing.

Contraindications for use

At the moment, there are no strict contraindications for the use of young people. But, take the plant inside people should be careful:

1. With a strong allergic reaction to plant substances.
2. Women during pregnancy due to increased sensitivity and susceptibility of the body.
3. Women during breastfeeding, due to the fact that it is possible to provoke an allergic reaction in the baby.
4. Alcohol tincture should not be used to lubricate a body that has open wounds and abrasions (a fresh plant is used for this).
5. Do not give the plant orally to small children under the age of three.

heaclub.ru

Feng Shui stone rose

In many books on feng shui, a houseplant is mentioned, which helps to increase income.

According to some sources, it should be placed in the so-called wealth sector, which is located in the southeast of the room. Its voluminous and rounded leaves create many associations with stability and security.

• For this reason, this plant is considered an attribute of enrichment.
• Moreover, the fat woman at home grows very strongly, filling the energy of the room with the energy of growth, which must be used correctly.
• For example, place an indoor flower in a sector that means the elements of the means necessary for life.
• To do this, you should determine your element of personality and, accordingly, the element of money, and only then activate the part of the room that is filled with this element.

Location in the house

For example, the energy of a person born on June 20, 1980 will be a tree, which means money is the energy of the earth. Accordingly, the sectors of this element are the northwest, southwest, northeast and southeast.

In addition, the fat woman can be placed in directions of light that are in harmony with the attributes of the tree. These include the south - the sector of fire and the north - the direction of water. A plant placed in a southerly direction will cause an increase in the fire element.

And if it is placed in the north, then the energy of the tree will be strong.

1. The first type of it can be used to increase your sexuality, facial beauty, body slimness and positive charge.
2. The second, respectively, is used in order to create a balance in energy, if a person has little wood element. Or it can be used to enhance the poet's talent.

With a powerful concentration of wooden energy, rhymes are created by themselves. However, you should not get carried away with it, for the reason that it causes severe irritation and aggression. An interesting fact is that the energy charge of a plant also depends on the shade of its flowers. This means that another element is added to the main element of the tree.

Influence by color

For example, if the flowers of the fat woman are pink, then the plant contains the energy of fire, weakened by the earth. This one can be placed in the southwest - the sector of marriage, to stabilize relations or in the direction of your "peach flower".

A fat girl that blooms red should be placed in rooms where you need to increase active fire. For example, in the east room or in the bedroom of the spouses.

• In the first case, fire reduces the element of wood, and in the second case, it enhances sexual energy.
• And if you determine the animal of your year of birth and put plants with red flowers in its corner, then you can lose weight, get rid of depression and become a generally positive person.

This is what the fat woman plant is capable of, the properties of which make it an indispensable attribute among those who are fond of Feng Shui. By the way, she is not picky at all and is quite hardy.

Therefore, it can actively grow on almost every windowsill. Its rounded leaves, as if molded from plastic, will decorate any room, and the flowers will delight with their unusual shape and delicate color. Most often, it blooms with white flowers, which belong to the elements of metal.

Placement of a flower depending on the tasks

And this means that such a kind of fat woman should be placed in sectors that are not in conflict with metal.

• It can be south, northwest, southeast and north.
• If a plant blooms rarely and in small inflorescences, then it releases energy that can move other energy mechanisms.
• Simply put, it creates activity that would be better directed in the right direction.

To do this, it is best to decide what you want to activate. Maybe money energy? Or do you want to influence your career growth?

Or maybe just support your body so that laziness does not arise?

1. In the first case, you need to put the plant in the southeast or in the sector, which means the element of money.
2. In the second case, you need to place it in the north or in the sector of the best source of qi, which is determined by the number of gua. Well, in order to add vitality to yourself, you need to put a fat woman with white flowers near you. For example, on a desktop where a lot of time is spent or on a table near the bed.

It should be borne in mind that indoor plants with white flowers are considered inharmonious according to Feng Shui. The fact is that the element of the tree of leaves and stems confronts the energy of the metal of white flowers.

And if the flowering is active and there are more flowers than the greenery of the plant itself, then it is better to keep this one away from you. So, like the struggle of the elements, it makes him a provocateur for quarrels and aggression.

Echeveria is a rather unpretentious, but at the same time spectacular plant. Thoughtful compositions with a combination of several types can be a real highlight of the design of your apartment. There is nothing difficult in growing and caring for echeveria at home: even a novice grower can handle it.

The genus Echeveria is a member of the Crassulaceae family. In total, according to various sources, there are from 150 to 180 species of these succulents in nature. The homeland of most of them is Mexico and the southern states of the United States, but individual representatives can also be found in South America (Peru). The plant prefers low mountains and plains, where in summer almost all days are hot and sunny, and in winter frosts, if any, are very infrequent and insignificant.

The name of the genus was in honor of the 19th-century Mexican artist Atanasio Echeverria Godoy, who, in addition to his main activity, was interested in botany, compiling and illustrating books on the flora of his homeland.

Echeveria collection guaranteed not to go unnoticed

A characteristic feature is the ability for interspecific crossing. Pachiveria (a hybrid with pachyphytum), graptoveria (with graptopetalum) were obtained by selection.

All echeverias are typical succulents. These are evergreen herbaceous or semi-shrub perennials that do not have a stem. They are replaced by a thick, short, fleshy, intensely branching trunk. The main thing flower growers value Echeveria for is the leaves. They are also fleshy, even, smooth to the touch. A characteristic feature is a layer of whitish, silvery or grayish coating or velvety pubescence to the touch. It is protection from the scorching sun. And the hotter it is outside, the thicker the layer becomes. Because of this, it turns blue, and a noticeable reddish border appears along the edges of the leaves.

The leaves, arranged often and strictly in a spiral, form dense rosettes. From afar, they may well be mistaken for flowers. The illusion is supported by an unusual color - pale green, with a slight lilac, red, gray tint. Because of this, echeveria has earned its unofficial popular name - "stone rose" or "stone flower".

A rosette of echeveria leaves looks like a flower from a distance

In nature, the leaves reach sizes of 3–30 cm in length and 1.5–15 cm in width. At home, the parameters are more modest by about half.

The peduncle of Echeveria is much higher than the plant itself. Growing from the middle of the rosette, depending on the species, it can reach 35–85 cm. The inflorescence is in the form of a brush, spike or umbrella, with many flowers resembling very small bells. All shades of yellow and orange predominate, sometimes with a greenish or reddish tint. Outside, the color is slightly brighter than inside. In nature, Echeveria flowers in late spring or summer, with the exception of a few species that prefer to do so in the middle of winter. Flowering is quite long - 15-20 days. If natural or artificial pollination has occurred, fruit-boxes with five nests are tied, in which small seeds of a dull brown color ripen.

Echeveria flowers are quite pretty

The roots of the plant are located almost on the surface - it is easier and faster to absorb moisture. The root system is fibrous, branched.

Differences from youth

Echeveria, due to external similarities, is quite often confused with another plant that is part of the Crassulaceae family - sempervivum (popularly - tenacious or young). However, unlike him, echeverias are extremely negative about any cold weather.

The leaves of the sempervivum look thinner, more elegant, sometimes they may even seem translucent, the rosettes are smaller. Even adult specimens of juveniles do not form stems. The sockets seem to lie on the ground. Echeveria, especially with a lack of light and heat, is able to stretch. At the same time, the lower leaves fall off, the rosette rises up.

So that there is no doubt at all, you need to wait for the offspring to appear. In echeveria, "babies" develop only at the base of the stem. For this, the young releases a “mustache”, at the ends of which offspring are formed.

Echeveria and young belong to the same family and are quite similar, but there are several distinguishing features.

Species grown at home (table)

Of the many representatives of the species, most are suitable for indoor floriculture. But for various reasons, only a few dozen are most common.

View	Description
Agave (agavoides)	The stem of this bushy plant, reaching 25–30 cm in height, is very short or absent in principle. The leaves are pale salad, at the edges - to translucency, with a noticeable reddish tint. The length of the leaf at home is 4–10 cm, the width is 5–6 cm. The plant blooms in late spring. The flowers are very small (1–1.5 cm), all shades of yellow-red. Very rarely, a few in the inflorescence have a pink color.
White-haired (leucotricha)	The name of the shrub is due to the presence of a thick white edge, resembling a long pile. Small (12-15 cm in diameter) rosettes are made up of leaves in the form of a lancet with a brownish border. Flowers bright red. Artists know this shade as cinnabar.
Brilliant (fulgens)	A characteristic feature of the shrub is not too intense branching. If shoots are formed, they are short and very thick. Inflorescence in the form of a brush or umbrella. Bright scarlet flowers appear in late winter or early spring.
Humpbacked flower (gibbiflora)	Of all the echeverias, it most closely resembles a tree. Stems erect, sometimes slightly branched. Rosettes of grayish-green leaves with a brick or brown tint are located on the tops of the shoots. The leaf plate is similar to a lens - it is concave from above, convex from below. The leaves are large - 20–25 cm long, 10–15 cm wide. At the end of summer, the plant throws out a tall (up to 1 m) peduncle. Inflorescence in the form of an ear. The flowers are muted scarlet on the outside, yellowish on the inside. Many hybrids have been bred by selective breeding. The most famous are carunculata (leaves are covered with small tubercles, as if twisted), crispata (leaves corrugated along the edges cast silver) and metallica (leaves with a whitish or reddish border have a shade of old bronze or purple).
Derenberg (Derenbergii)	Herbaceous plant. Shoots creep along the ground, small (4-7 cm) rosettes of leaves are located on their tops. The length of the sheet is almost equal to the width (3 and 2.5 cm). The leaves are covered with a bluish bloom, a reddish tint is noticeable along the edge and at the tip. Inflorescences are short (5-6 cm), spike-shaped. Flowers yellow-orange or reddish.
Graceful (elegans)	Herbaceous perennials. The leaves are very light green, almost white. The edges are translucent. The tip is pointed, sometimes even prickly. A characteristic feature is a highly branched peduncle. Inflorescences drooping, in the form of small one-sided brushes. Flowers crimson fading to yellow.
Lau (Lauii)	Unlike other species, it does not grow too fast and is quite demanding in care. One of the largest rosettes (18–20 cm in diameter). The leaves are diamond-shaped, almost white due to a thick layer of wax coating. They also cover and orange-pink shiny flowers.
Cushion (pulvinata)	Low-growing (18–20 cm) shrubs. The socket is quite “loose”, there are few leaves in it. At the top of each leaf is a short spine. Leaves and yellow-red flowers are pubescent. Inflorescences spike-shaped.
Sho (Shaviana)	Not too similar to echeveria in principle. The leaves are almost round, soft to the touch, corrugated along the edge. They are compressed so that the rosette looks more like a cabbage head than a flower. It produces several peduncles at the same time, pinkish flowers on which bloom in turn.
bristly (setosa)	A bushy plant forms many shoots. Rosettes in the form of an almost regular ball, each of them has more than a hundred dark green leaves with a grayish tinge. The leaves are densely covered with white bristles - hence the name. The inflorescence is low - about 30 cm. The shape of the flowers resemble miniature tulips, and the color too.
Lingual (linguaefolia)	A low (20–25 cm) shrub forms two (no more and no less) fleshy trunks. Peduncle drooping, sometimes branching from below. The flowers are light yellow, straw-coloured.
Purple (atoropurpurea)	The socket is large, but loose. It is located at the top of the stem about 15 cm high. The leaves are also large (up to 12 cm), brick-colored.
Crimson (purpusorum)	Very original coloring and form of leaves. They are thick, wide, with a very sharp end, noticeably thinner towards the edges. The rosette is located on top of a short thick stem. The leaves are olive, with rich purple spots.
Echeveria Garms (Harmsii)	The leaves are very small, in the form of a rounded rhombus. At each point, the leaf plate turns red. The flowers are small, reddish-yellow.
Desmeta (Desmetiana)	The leaves have a pronounced bluish tint. The rosette is located at the top of a long stem. Blooms from mid-July. Inflorescences are formed on shoots from the side.
Multistem (multicaulis)	High stem (up to 1 m). The leaves are small, slightly concave, dark green, with a red border. The rosette in the center is dense, becoming noticeably looser towards the edges. The flowers are yellowish inside, scarlet outside.
Gray (glauca)	Compact plant with small dense rosettes. At the base, the leaves are wedge-shaped, sharpened towards the tip. They are covered with a thick layer of bluish bloom.
Miranda	A very showy plant with neat little rosettes, as if lying on the ground. They are very similar in shape to a lotus. By selection, varieties with a bluish, purple, pink, scarlet, yellowish, silvery shade of leaves have been bred.
Black Prince	selective hybrid. The leaves are green at the base and turn dark purple at the tips. From a distance, it can even be mistaken for black. The flowers are small, scarlet.
Pearl of Nuremberg (Perle von Nurnberg)	selective hybrid. The stem is thick, straight. The leaves are pinkish-gray, the youngest are pastel pink. Flowers are muted scarlet.

Photo gallery: echeveria varieties

The youngest leaves of Echeveria Brilliant sometimes have notched edges Echeveria White-haired blooms profusely, throughout the spring Echeveria Humpbacked - a wonderful basis for experiments of breeders The reddish hue of the leaves of Echeveria Agave becomes saturated as the plant grows older Due to its decorative effect, Echeveria Miranda is most often found in indoor floriculture Echeveria Crimson cannot be confused with other species
Echeveria Multistem branches intensively from the very base Echeveria Black Prince is one of the most beautiful breeding hybrids Echeveria Purple is actually not quite purple, but it sounds beautiful Due to the thick layer of plaque, the leaves of Echeveria Sizoy seem almost white Echeveria Pearl of Nuremberg is bred on the basis of Echeveria humpbacked The stalk of Echeveria Garms practically does not branch. Echeveria Bristly blooms very abundantly If the winter was warm, in nature the flowering of Echeveria Lingual can move from April to January or February. The wax coating on the leaves of Echeveria Lau is thick, but easily erased Over time, the stem of Echeveria Graceful lays down under the weight of leaves, the rosette quickly takes root Unlike the others, Echeveria Derenberg has only 3-5 flowers in the inflorescence In winter, Echeveria Sho, most likely, will lose most of the leaves

Creating optimal conditions

Echeveria is a relatively undemanding plant, but if you do not make a minimum of effort and create more or less suitable conditions for it, the decorative effect of the flower will drop dramatically.

Table: optimal conditions

Factor	Optimal conditions
Location	For a plant, a window facing south, southeast or southwest is suitable. In summer, it is useful to take the pot to an open balcony or veranda, taking care of protection from sharp cold drafts and precipitation. You can add a twist to the design of the garden by temporarily planting echeveria in an alpine hill.
Lighting	Echeveria is extremely photophilous and tolerates direct sunlight well. From bright light, it only becomes more decorative - a thickening layer of wax coating gives the leaves a beautiful bluish tint, a reddish border appears along the edge. Leaves may wrinkle slightly, but this is completely normal. The specimens that have just been acquired or have survived a dormant period gradually adapt to the bright sun.
Temperature	In nature, echeveria is able to survive temperatures up to 40ºС, but the optimal parameters are 23–28ºС. For the winter, it is best to remove the flower in a room with a constant temperature of 7-10ºС. But, in principle, he is able to overwinter at standard 18-20ºС, which are maintained in the cold season in most apartments. The plant does not respond to small temperature changes.
Air humidity	For echeveria, this parameter is insignificant. She does not need additional spraying even on the hottest days. On the contrary, in variegated varieties and bright hybrids, the color of the leaves may turn pale and fade from excess moisture. A standard humidity level of 40–60% is sufficient.

Alpine slide with echeverias - a wonderful garden decoration

Transplant procedure

To preserve the decorative effect, young echeverias are recommended to be transplanted every year after the end of the dormant period. For adults, one transplant in 2–3 years is enough; in between, you can simply remove the top 1–2 cm of soil and replace it with fresh. Transplant procedures can be avoided if grown hydroponically.

The plant is undemanding to the soil. It should not be too nutritious, light and loose. A standard soil for succulents is quite suitable. However, experienced flower growers prepare the substrate on their own, mixing equal proportions of fertile soddy soil, coarse river sand and adding a glass of sifted wood ash and fine red brick crumbs for every 3 liters of soil. Or another option - mixed in equal proportions of soddy soil, powdered clay with sand and twice as much universal soil for decorative leafy houseplants. If you take soil from your own site, find out in advance the level of acidity. Acidic soil for echeveria is not suitable.

Since the root system of Echeveria is shallow and branched, choose a pot that looks like a bowl - low but wide. A mandatory requirement is a large drainage hole. At least a quarter of the volume should be occupied by drainage from expanded clay, pebbles, ceramic shards, brick chips. It is not necessary to significantly increase the volume of the pot compared to the previous one. A difference in diameter of 2–3 cm is quite enough. Ideally, the pot should be ceramic and light in order not to get so hot in direct sunlight.

A deep pot of echeveria is not needed

When transplanting, pay special attention to touching the leaves as little as possible. The protective coating on them is very easy to accidentally erase.

You also need to carefully examine the roots and cut off dried, dead, rotten ones with a sharp disinfected knife. Remove with a margin, capturing another 2-3 cm of the root, which looks healthy. Slices immediately sprinkle with powdered activated charcoal.

Before transplanting, the soil should be slightly moistened with a spray bottle and a slowly absorbable fertilizer in the form of sticks should be inserted into the earthen ball. The transplanted echeveria is moderately watered. No more watering will be needed for the next week. Renew it gradually.

Echeveria grow well in florariums

Necessary care

At home, Echeveria grows calmly under the scorching sun on stony soils. Accordingly, it does not need either abundant watering or frequent fertilizer. The main thing is not to flood or overfeed the flower.

Watering

In spring and summer, echeverias are watered on average once every 7-10 days, depending on the weather outside and the type of plant. The thicker the pubescence, the less it needs moisture. Be sure to take soft water that has settled for at least a day, ideally distilled or filtered.

The earth ball from the previous time should dry well, but it is undesirable to bring the plant to such a state when the soil begins to move away from the edges of the pot. Another sign of a lack of moisture is wrinkles on the leaves.

Starting in August, watering is gradually reduced, preparing the plant for a dormant period. The interval is approximately doubled.

Avoid getting water inside the outlet and on the leaves themselves. In the first case, rotting may begin, in the second, sunburn is very likely. It is best to use the bottom watering, pouring water into the pot tray and draining the excess after 15-20 minutes.

top dressing

In the phase of intensive growth of echeveria, one feeding per month is enough. To do this, prepare a solution of liquid mineral fertilizer for cacti and succulents. The proportion recommended by the manufacturer is halved. Fertilizer is added to water for irrigation.

rest period

Echeveria needs a fairly long dormant period, which lasts from mid-autumn to the end of winter. At this time, the flower is transferred to a cold, bright place with a temperature of 7-10ºС, watering is reduced to once a month and not fertilized at all.

In principle, echeveria will overwinter under standard apartment conditions, but in this case, most likely, there will be no flowering. If you leave the flower in the same room, more frequent watering will be required. The signal that it's time is drooping, withered leaves. The specimens blooming in winter are also left warm.

Bloom

If the rest period has been organized according to the rules, in spring or summer (with the exception of some species in which this happens in winter), echeveria will bloom.

Taking advantage of the fact that the flower belongs to the category of short-day plants, you can "deceive" nature and achieve flowering at the right time. For this echeveria older than one year for 50–60 days, special conditions must be created: lighting for 12–13 hours daily and a temperature of 16–18ºС.

Video: how to care for echeveria

Common grooming mistakes

Echeveria, of course, is not picky and undemanding, but mistakes in care do not affect its decorative effect for the better.

Table: common mistakes

Description of the problem	Probable Cause
Dark spots on leaves.	Drops of water fell on the plant, or you yourself erased the wax coating, for example, during transplantation.
The leaves and stem turn black at the base, easily separated from the plant.	Echeveria is too cold and/or you are watering it too much. If more suitable conditions are not created, the rot that has begun to develop will quickly destroy the plant.
Leaf deformation.	Exceeding the permissible concentration of fertilizers or using hard water for irrigation. Another option is a reaction to insecticides. If possible, use only those in which the main active ingredient is feverfew.
The stems are stretched, the leaves turn pale, the rosettes become less dense.	The plant lacks light and heat. Choose a more suitable place for him and gradually (within 10-12 days) accustom him to new conditions.
The leaves are shrinking.	Echeveria closely in a pot. After the next dormant period, transplant the plant. It is also a characteristic sign of insufficient or too rare watering.

Echeveria react rather negatively to mistakes in care, losing their decorative effect.

Diseases and pests

Echeveria, due to its rather dense leaves, is quite resistant to damage by most pests. However, it often suffers from all kinds of rot, which, with too abundant watering, succulents are prone to.

Table: Echeveria diseases and pests

Disease or pest	Symptoms	Prevention and control measures
The pest is easy to identify by small off-white pellets, similar to cotton wool or poplar fluff, which it leaves at the base of the stem and leaves. If no action is taken, all the leaves will be covered with a continuous whitish coating, then they will turn yellow and fall off.	At the slightest sign of damage by the mealybug, the affected echeveria must be isolated. Then the flower is wiped with a cotton pad dipped in a soap-alcohol solution, and all visible pests are removed. In a liter of hot water, you need to dilute 15 g of small shavings of laundry soap and 20 ml of medical alcohol. If the pest has not yet spread massively, they resort to folk remedies - an infusion of garlic arrows, dry citrus peels, spray the flower, soil and pot, cover with a plastic bag, hermetically fix and leave for two days. To prepare the infusion, 50 g of crushed raw materials are poured into a liter of warm water and left for a day. The plant must be well dried. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with an interval of 5-7 days will be required. If there is no visible effect, use insecticides, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions, including regarding the frequency of treatment. Actellik, Aktara, Phosphamide, Nurell-D have proven themselves in the best way. The second and subsequent treatments are best done by changing the preparations so that the pests do not have time to develop immunity.
Pests penetrate the roots of plants and suck out the juices. It is possible to accurately identify the problem only when transplanting. Before that, it can only be noted that the plant stops growing, the leaves gradually turn pale, turn yellow and wrinkle. A waxy gray-white coating is visible along the edge of the pot.	The best prevention is to follow the recommendations regarding watering and periodically (once every 1–1.5 months) wetting the earth with an insecticide solution in half concentration. The only way that gives at least some guarantee is to transplant the plant. The old pot and pan are thoroughly washed and boiled, the soil is thrown away, the new one must be sterilized. The roots of the plant are washed with hot (45-50ºС) water. Insecticides - Mospilan, Confidor, Regent, Aktellik, Fitoverm. For prevention, 1 g of the drug per 2 liters can be added to the water for irrigation within a month.
Gall nematodes	Nematodes are small worms that suck the juice from the roots. As a result, swellings appear on them, in which pests live and multiply. If you do not take action, they will destroy the entire root system, the plant will die.	Since it is very difficult to deal with nematodes, the focus is on prevention. Use only sterilized pots and soil, quarantine newly acquired plants for 2-3 weeks. Root bath every 1.5-2 months. The pot is immersed in hot water for half an hour. Then the echeveria is dried for at least 15-20 hours. Decaris is known as a folk remedy. The tablet is dissolved in a liter of water, the plant is watered. If time is lost, the nematodes are fought in the same way as with the root worm.
The roots become loose and soft to the touch, blacken. The same can be said about the base of the stem and leaves. The leaves become smaller, turn yellow and fall off, the plant dies.	A badly damaged echeveria cannot be saved, it can only be thrown away, after leaving the most healthy parts for further rooting. If the rot has not spread too much, an urgent transplant may help. The plant is removed from the pot, the roots are soaked for an hour in a 1% fungicide solution - Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride (HOM), copper sulfate, Kuprozan (10 ml per liter of water). The pot, pan and new soil must be sterilized. All the roots, stems, leaves with the slightest traces of blackness are cut off from the plant with a sharp knife, capturing 3-5 cm, which seem healthy. Most likely, spores of the fungus are present there. The sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon or sulfur, the plant is dried for 5-7 hours and planted again. For prevention, it is watered for another 1.5–2 months with a 0.05% fungicide solution, alternating it with plain water.

Photo gallery: diseases and pests of echeveria

Root rot is very dangerous for all succulents. Gall nematodes can destroy the entire root system in a matter of days. Root bug without removing the plant from the pot is difficult to identify.
The mealybug is easy to identify, but difficult to get rid of.

How does Echeveria reproduce?

Echeveria easily reproduces by almost all known methods.

Rooting cuttings and rosettes

The most reliable way to get a new echeveria is a child outlet. But not in all species they are often formed at home. Therefore, in semi-shrub plants, you can cut off the side shoot or top (the optimal length is about 10 cm).

Separating the offspring, try not to harm the plant

The rooting process looks like this:

1. At the next transplant with a sharp knife, trying to injure the plant as little as possible, cut off the daughter rosette or stalk. Sprinkle the cut with crushed activated charcoal.
2. Carefully break off the lower leaves, exposing 2-3 cm of the stem. Wrap in tissue paper or place in a glass so that the cut does not touch anything, and leave in the open air. The minimum time is 10–12 hours. Plants with thick, fleshy stems can take several days or even a week to dry out.
3. Stick planting material vertically into pots filled with a mixture of leafy soil and coarse sand (2:1). Lightly compact the soil. You can also mix sand and vermiculite equally.
4. After a day or two, water the plant with water, the temperature of which is 2-3ºС higher than room temperature. Further watering - as the substrate dries. Rooting cuttings occurs within 7-10 days.

Echeveria offspring take root quite easily.

leaf rooting

A healthy leaf must be separated from the shoot from below without the slightest trace of deformation, signs of damage by pests and other pathologies and dried for 8-10 hours.

In mid-spring or early summer, it is placed cut down in coarse sand or a mixture of dry peat in equal proportions with cactus soil. When the cut site dries up, a growth bud appears, from which a young echeveria is formed. 3-4 months for rooting is a normal time. It can be reduced by creating a constant temperature of 23-25ºС for the plant.

After about a month, when the mother leaf is completely dry, the resulting plants can be transplanted into the ground. Take care of them like cuttings.

You can root a leaf obtained from any echeveria

seed germination

Echeveria seeds at home appear only after artificial pollination. If successful, you need to wait until the fruit-box bursts at the "seams".

At the end of winter or early spring, the collected planting material is laid out on the surface of the soil in shallow containers filled with sand and dry peat in a ratio of 1: 1. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, some flower growers recommend wrapping the seeds in a cloth and holding them in moist peat for 2-3 days.

To create the effect of a greenhouse, containers are covered with glass or plastic wrap. As the substrate dries, it is moistened, plantings are aired daily. The optimum temperature is 20–23ºС. Under these conditions, seedlings will appear in 12-18 days.

After the formation of three true leaves, the seedlings dive into separate containers filled with a mixture of leafy soil or universal soil for indoor plants and sand in a ratio of 2: 1.

Echeveria seedlings should be planted after 3-4 months

When new rosettes reach a diameter of 3-4 cm, they are transplanted into small pots. In the future, they are looked after in the same way as for adult echeveria.

Echeveria is a heat-loving flower native to hot Mexico. Flower growers successfully grow it on window sills, in florariums or greenhouse rocky gardens. Unpretentious and extremely decorative echeveria does not cause any trouble in care and willingly grows at home.

plant description

There are many varieties of echeveria

Echeveria (or echeveria) is a resident of the arid rocky plains and mountain slopes of Central America. The flower got its name in honor of the illustrator Atanasio Echeverria, who designed the book "Flora of Mexico" in the century before last. Another name, "stone rose", is associated with the appearance of the plant - its dense rosettes really resemble roses.

The genus Echeveria belongs to the Crassulaceae family and unites about two hundred species. Growth in a dry hot climate determines the main distinguishing features of echeveria. The plants have fleshy leaves, collected in a dense rosette, from 3 to 30 cm long and 1–15 cm wide. The leaf blades are flat or cylindrical, with a pointed tip, covered with a wax coating or pubescent. This leaf structure allows Echeveria to endure sudden changes in temperature, heat and cold. The color is bluish-green, the ends of the leaves are darker, reddish-brown.

The stem of most species is shortened and almost invisible, although there are also bushy echeverias. Echeveria blooms with bell-shaped flowers, which are located on inflorescences from 4 to 50 cm long. The size of individual bells is 1–3 cm, the color is red, yellow-green, orange. Often, an additional rosette develops at the ends of the flower stalks, with fleshy, waxy, smaller leaves than on the mother plant.

Young people are often mistaken for echeveria, but they look more like artichokes.

On a note! Even experienced flower growers sometimes confuse echeveria with another similar plant - young (Sempervivum). However, these are two completely different plants, respectively, and the conditions for their maintenance are different. The youth is frost-resistant, it can be safely grown on alpine hills in open ground, while echeveria does not tolerate sub-zero temperatures. Another difference between echeveria is more fleshy and thicker leaves compared to young ones.

Echeveria as an indoor flower is represented by many species. Basically, they differ in size, leaf color and rosette shape. In content, all varieties are absolutely unpretentious, so you can safely choose any variety you like.

Known varieties of echeveria - table

Variety	The size and shape of the leaf socket	Size, shape, leaf color	Flowers
Echeveria agave (agavoides)	A bushy plant with a very short stem. Rosettes are dense, rounded.	Leaves up to 9 cm long and up to 6 cm wide, widen from the base, and then sharply narrow, with a pointed tip. The color of the leaves is light green, at the ends the leaves are yellowish-green, covered with a noticeable wax bloom of a bluish color.	The flowers are collected in inflorescences about 40 cm long, which emerge from the center of the rosette. The shape of the flowers is rounded bells, the color is yellow or red. Blooms in spring and summer.
Echeveria white-haired (leucotricha)	A short-stemmed plant with a rosette about 15 cm in diameter.	The leaves are lanceolate, oblong, and their outer side is flat, and the lower convex, rounded. Leaf plates are green with a brown border along the edge, densely covered with light hairs.	The flowers are reddish-brown, located on peduncles 40–50 cm long. It blooms in spring.
Echeveria brilliant (fulgens Lera)	Bushy species with thick shoots. Second-order shoots grow from the central rosette with small rosettes at the ends.	The leaves are oval-oblong, with a sharp tip, up to 10 cm long and up to 4 cm wide. The color is light green, with a pronounced wax coating on the edges.	The flowers are bright red, 1-2 cm in size. Flowering in February - March.
Echeveria humpbacked (Gibbiflora)	A plant with tree-like unbranched shoots, on the tops of which there are small (15-20 leaves) rosettes.	The leaves are rounded-lanceolate, slightly pointed at the end. Slightly concave on the outside, curved on the inside. The edge of the leaf plate is slightly wavy, there are varieties with pronounced waviness. The color ranges from bluish-green to reddish-gray with a lighter border around the edge.	Flowers - red-yellow rounded bells 2 cm in size.
Echeveria Derenberg (Derenbergii)	It has creeping shoots with very dense, regular rosettes at the ends.	Leaves up to 4 cm long and up to 2 cm wide, spatulate, very close to each other. The color of the leaf plates is gray-green with a colored (usually pinkish or brownish) edging along the edge.	Inflorescences 6-15 cm with red-yellow bells.
Echeveria graceful (elegans Rose)	The stem is very short, the rosettes are quite dense.	Leaves up to 5 cm long, 2 cm wide, rounded, with a sharp tip. The coloration is light green with a silvery-gray bloom.	The flowers are pink, with a yellow top, appear on branched peduncles in late spring.
Echeveria cushion (pulvinata)	A plant with a short herbaceous stem and a loose rosette.	The leaves are oval, very fleshy, up to 5 cm long and 2 cm wide. The green leaf plate is densely pubescent with short silvery hairs, and small spines are located on the tops of the leaves.	The flowers are 1-2 cm in size, pubescent and have a red-yellow color. Flowering from early March.
Echeveria Peakotsky, or Peacock (peacockii)	Plants with a low erect stem, on top of which there are loose rosettes with a diameter of about 10 cm.	The leaves are rounded-spatulate, with a sharp tip. The color is uniform green with a bluish bloom.	Red flowers are collected on drooping peduncles. Blooms in late spring - early summer.
Echeveria Shaviana, or Sho (shaviana)	Herbaceous short stem, fairly dense rosette of regular shape.	The leaves are flat, oval, with a sharp tip. Gray-green coloration. There are varieties with a wavy edge.	Pink flowers are collected in inflorescences on branched erect peduncles. Blooms in early summer.
Echeveria bristly (setosa Rose et Purp)	The plant is practically without a stem, the rosettes are dense. correct form.	The leaves are lanceolate, fleshy, up to 10 cm long and up to 4 cm wide. The color is uniform, bright green. The entire leaf plate is covered with short prickly silver bristles.	The flowers are small, about 1 cm, collected in inflorescences 30–40 cm high. It blooms in early summer.

Popular varieties in the photo

Optimal conditions for keeping echeveria - table

Important! Do not forget that echeveria is a resident of arid and hot regions. In order for it to show itself in all its glory, it needs to create conditions as close as possible to natural ones.

Plant video

Landing and transplant

After buying Echeveria, it is advisable to immediately transplant it into a permanent pot with suitable soil, because the store substrate is often unsuitable for long-term cultivation of this flower.

In nature, echeveria grows in rock crevices, on scree. In such conditions, rainwater does not linger at the roots, but immediately flows off. The soil in the pot should also pass water very well. Moreover, the pebbles are not only laid on the bottom of the tank, but also evenly mixed with the soil. It can be small pebbles, broken bricks or gravel with a fraction of 4-6 mm. Sand and vermiculite are absolutely not suitable, the sand has too small particles, and vermiculite retains moisture.

The optimal composition of the soil for echeveria:

• garden soil - 3 parts;
• pebbles - 1 part;
• peat - 1 part;
• some charcoal.

Alternatively, you can take the purchased land for cacti or succulents and add some stones there.

On a note! Determining whether an echeveria earth mixture is suitable is very simple. A handful of the substrate is squeezed in the hand and they look at what happened - if the soil has turned into a lump, then it is too heavy for echeveria, and if it crumbles, then just right.

An important role in growing a plant is played by the right choice of a pot. Echeveria has a weak shallow root system, so it needs a wide and shallow container with a drainage hole in the bottom. The diameter of the pot should be 1–1.5 cm larger than the diameter of the leaf rosette.

On a note! Group plantings in spacious flower boxes look beautiful. With the help of several varieties of succulents and a handful of decorative pebbles, you can create a real miniature garden. It is necessary to water such a composition very carefully so that the roots of echeveria do not rot in a large amount of land.

Young specimens require an annual transplant, adult plants are transplanted only as needed, when the old pot becomes cramped. The land for transplantation is taken the same as during the first landing.

Echeveria needs small pots

Growing in a florarium

Recently, it has become popular to grow a mix of indoor plants in mini-greenhouses, the so-called florariums. Initially, only demanding plants were planted in florariums in order to provide them with the necessary microclimate. Currently, mini-greenhouses have become a real decoration of the interior, because behind the glass you can recreate a piece of the natural landscape. Echeveria is great for a desert or rocky florarium. Its compactness, slow growth, low soil and water requirements make it an ideal candidate for growing under glass.

Echeveria is great for creating a desert landscape

To make such a florarium is very simple. For this you need:

1. Carefully pour the drainage layer into a glass container (small pebbles in half with charcoal), and on it a layer of soil for echeveria.
2. With the help of large tweezers and a wooden peg, plant a few bushes and carefully water them from a small watering can with a narrow spout.
3. Fill empty places with decorative pebbles or coarse quartz sand.
4. As a care, such a florarium needs only very moderate watering from time to time.

plant care

Watering and humidity

Echeveria feels great at low humidity, so it can be safely placed in rooms with dry air or near heating devices.

Important! This flower is not sprayed! Too much moisture can cause leaf rot. For the same reason, avoid getting water on the leaf outlet when watering.

Echeveria is watered very sparingly. In summer, in hot weather, this is done more often, as soon as the earth ball dries well. In winter, watering is reduced, the lower the temperature of the content, the less moisture the plant needs. Remember that stagnant water is detrimental to echeveria.

top dressing

The flower is fed only during the period of active growth, that is, from the beginning of spring to the end of summer. As a fertilizer, ready-made mixtures for succulents are used, for example, Agricola for cacti and succulents, Absolut, Stimovit for succulents. As a rule, top dressing is applied along with watering once a month. In the autumn-winter period, echeveria is not fed.

Important! Fertilizers can begin to be applied only 2 months after planting or transplanting a flower.

How to make echeveria bloom

Many varieties of echeveria bloom willingly on windowsills. If the plant does not want to release buds, it can be helped. This is achieved by adjusting the length of daylight hours and temperature. If bushes are kept at a temperature of +15 ... +18 ° C for 1.5–2 months and the daylight hours are only 12–13 hours, the first buds will appear by the end of this period.

On a note! Very young plants will not bloom. Usually echeverias bloom only for 2-3 years of life.

During flowering, echeveria requires more abundant watering and fertilizing with complex fertilizer for flowering plants. After flowering, there is a dormant period during which watering and fertilizing are reduced.

Blooming echeveria bushes look very elegant

Possible problems and ways to solve them - table

Problem	Causes	Solutions
Gray spots on the leaves, violation of the wax layer.	Careless handling of bushes. Water ingress on leaves.	Try not to touch the leaves during transplanting and when leaving, so as not to disturb the wax layer. Avoid getting water on the socket.
Leaves and stems become brittle and turn gray or black.	Excessive watering combined with low temperatures.	Bring the plant into a room with a temperature of 25-28 degrees. Reduce watering.
The socket stretched out, became loose. The leaves have faded.	Lack of lighting.	Gradually move the pot to a brighter place. If you do this abruptly, the plant can get stressed and get sick.
Small leaves, very slow growth.	Lack of moisture. Too poor soil and lack of fertilizers.	Establish watering, not forgetting that waterlogging is just as destructive as excessive dryness. Transplant the bush into a more nutritious soil or start regular feeding.
Leaves and rosettes shrivel.	Lack of watering in the heat.	Immediately remove the plant from a hot window sill and water it.

Diseases and pests

Echeveria, like other Crassulaceae, is resistant to diseases and pests. The main danger is represented by mealy and root bugs, root-knot nematodes.

Pest control methods - table

Pest	signs	Treatment
Mealybug	Foci of wax threads, similar to fluff or cotton wool, appear on the outlet. The leaves are covered with a sticky coating. If you look closely, you can see oval whitish insects covered with powdery coating. Plants stop growing, are oppressed.	Spray the bushes with Karbofos (6 g per 1 liter of water). You may have to discard the plant, rooting healthy cuttings.
root bug	The plant is depressed, stops growing, the leaves lose their elasticity, become lethargic. The earthy ball is as if entangled in white cotton wool - this is the nest of the worms.	Completely change the soil in the pot. Carry out 3–4 waterings with Aktara at weekly intervals (1 g per 5 liters of water).
gall nematode	General inhibition of the plant. Thickening in the form of beads is noticeable on the roots. Over time, the roots rot.	Cut off the damaged roots, place the plant for 30 minutes in water at a temperature of 40–45 degrees, and then transplant into fresh soil. Spill the earth with Aktara solution 3-4 times (1 g per 5 liters of water).

Reproduction of a flower at home

Echeveria are easy to propagate by leaf cuttings, apical or basal rosettes. You can try to grow a flower from seeds, but this is a more time-consuming way.

leaf cuttings

1. The lower leaves are broken off from the mother plant - large and healthy. Leave to dry for 2-3 hours.
2. A soil mixture of garden soil and coarse sand is placed in a pot in a ratio of 2: 1. 2-3 mm of clean sand is poured on top.
3. The leaves are pressed into the ground with a scrap, placing them slightly obliquely.
4. Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle and cover with a plastic bag.
5. The pot with cuttings is regularly moistened, and the shelter is ventilated. The temperature of the cuttings is about +25 ° C.
6. After 2-3 weeks, young rosettes appear at the base of the leaves. After the mother leaf is completely dry, small echeverias are seated in separate pots.

Plants are planted after the mother leaves have dried.

Root or apical rosettes

By rooting entire rosettes, you can get a full-fledged plant in a year. Rooting steps:

1. With a sharp knife, cut off the basal or apical rosette and remove 3-4 lower leaves. Leave it to dry in a shaded place for 3-4 hours.
2. Prepare a mixture of garden soil and coarse sand or fine gravel 1: 1 and fill a small pot with it.
3. Stick the socket into the soil and lightly water.
4. Keep at a temperature of 22–24 degrees, water regularly (the earth must be constantly moist).
5. After a month, the outlet will start to grow, and after another 1-2 months it can be transplanted into a permanent pot. If the bush grows slowly, you can leave it until next year and only then transplant it.

Rooted sockets quickly begin to grow

seeds

If, after flowering, echeveria has formed fruit boxes, you can try to grow new bushes from seeds. To do this, they are sown in a mixture of peat soil and coarse sand (1: 1). Do it in February - March.

Important! Echeveria seeds are very small, so they are not sprinkled with earth, but only slightly pressed into the surface.

Crops are moistened with a spray bottle and covered with glass. In the future, they are kept at a temperature of 20–25 degrees, regularly moistened and ventilated. After two to three weeks, sprouts will appear. The grown seedlings are planted in small pots after 2-3 months. When the sockets grow up to 3 cm in diameter, they are transplanted again to a permanent place.

Echeveria (lat. Echeveria), or echeveria- a genus of succulent herbaceous perennials of the Tolstyankovye family. There are about 170 species in the genus, most of which are distributed in Mexico, but some of them are found in the United States and South America. The name of the genus was given in honor of Atanasio Echeverría y Godoy, a Mexican artist who illustrated books about the plant world of Mexico. The natives call this plant "stone flower" or "stone rose".

Planting and caring for echeveria

• Bloom: about 3 weeks in spring or summer.
• Lighting: bright sunlight, bright diffused light, partial shade.
• Temperature: from spring to autumn - usual for a dwelling, in winter - 9-10 ºC.
• Watering: regular, but rare: only after complete drying of the substrate.
• Air humidity: doesn't matter.
• Top dressing: during the period of active growth - once a month with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for cacti and succulents. During the rest of the year, they do not feed.
• rest period: in winter.
• Transfer: young plants - every spring, adults - once every 3-4 years at the beginning of the growing season.
• Reproduction: stem or leaf cuttings, rarely seeds.
• Diseases: fungal infections.
• Pests: the plant is stable.

Read more about growing echeveria below.

Echeveria flower - description

Echeveria succulent forms dense rosettes from 3 to 40 cm in diameter from fleshy, juicy, hard, moisture-filled leaves. Representatives of the genus can be stemless or have long shoots, the leaves of different types of echeveria differ in shape, color and size. Five-membered medium-sized yellow, red-brown or red-orange flowers with succulent sepals and petals, collected in an erect lateral inflorescence, are located on a long lateral or vertical peduncle.

The intensity of flower color often depends on the quality of the light: flowers that develop in cloudy weather are usually yellow, and those that form under the sun have a red tint.

Echeveria well form interspecific and intergeneric forms, of which the most famous are sediveria, pachyveria and graptoveria. Echeveria is widely distributed in room culture.

Echeveria care at home

Growing echeveria from seeds

Reproduction of echeveria by seeds is the most difficult way to get a new plant: you need to pollinate the flower with your own hands during flowering, observe the maturation of the seeds and collect them in time. Then the seeds are laid out on the surface of a sandy-peat substrate, lightly pressed, not closed, and kept in a bright place at a temperature of 20-25 ˚C in conditions of high humidity, for which the crops are covered with film or glass.

As a container for growing seedlings, it is desirable to use a container with drainage holes through which excess moisture will flow.

If you are careful and careful, then in 2-3 weeks you will have a lot of sprouts, and when they develop three true leaves, you can plant them in separate pots and place them on the lightest window sill in the apartment.

The echeveria plant is not afraid of either heat, or dry air, or direct sunlight, therefore it grows well, develops and blooms on windowsills oriented to the south. From spring to autumn, home echeveria feels comfortable at normal room temperature for the season, and in winter you need to find a room for it where the temperature will not rise above 10 ˚C. If this is not possible, and the plant will overwinter in a warm room, then try at least to get him enough light: some lovers complain that during the winter their echeveria stretched out and its stems were bare, and the reason for this trouble is poor lighting at high air temperatures.

Watering and feeding echeveria

Echeveria is watered with settled or filtered water at room temperature when the substrate in the pot dries completely. With more frequent watering, there is a risk of decay of the lower leaves and roots of Echeveria.

Make sure that the water does not stagnate at the stem and that its excess flows freely from the pot. If Echeveria at home begins to feel thirsty, its leaves will become soft and begin to wrinkle.

As for air humidity, Echeveria, like all succulents, is indifferent to this indicator. She does not need and even harmful both spraying and washing in the shower.

In the photo: Growing echeveria in a pot in an apartment

Care must be taken with feeding Echeveria, since an excess of fertilizers in the substrate stimulates putrefactive processes in the leaves. Mineral complexes for cacti in the form of solutions are applied to the substrate once a month during the period of active growth. At the beginning of autumn, feeding is stopped. If you often update the soil in a pot, then top dressing can not be applied at all.

Transplantation and propagation of echeveria

Young echeverias need to change the pot and substrate every spring, for adult plants it is enough to change the dishes and soil once every 3-4 years. Echeveria pots must have drainage holes. First, a layer of drainage material is placed in a shallow pot - pebbles or expanded clay, after which the plant is transferred from the old pot to the new one and the free space is filled with a soil mixture consisting of loamy soil (3 parts), peat (1 part), expanded clay (1 part) and charcoal (handful).

If Echeveria has already settled in your apartment, you can propagate it vegetatively, which is easier to perform and more reliable than growing from seeds. For example, stem cuttings: in mid-March, apical cuttings with several leaf rosettes are separated from the mother plant and easily pressed into the soil of sand and a small amount of compost earth. Contain rooted cuttings in bright light and a temperature of 22-24 ˚С, moistening the soil from time to time. Echeveria cuttings root in 7-10 days, after which they are transplanted into permanent pots.

They practice in indoor floriculture and propagate echeveria with a leaf, but this method requires experience and skill, because you need to be able to separate the large lower leaves from the plant without damage. The leaves are dried for several hours, then they are placed horizontally on the sand and the soil is regularly moistened, preventing it from becoming waterlogged. Roots will begin to appear in a month, but a full-fledged plant will form only after 3-4 months.

Echeveria pests and diseases

Echeveria diseases and their treatment

In excessively wet soil, echeveria can suffer from fungal diseases. To prevent this from happening, try to balance the moisture of the substrate by letting the Echeveria earthen coma dry out between waterings.

All other troubles that may arise are also the result of improper maintenance or poor care. For example, fragile stems, which began to turn gray or even blacken - a sign of excessive soil moisture against the background of low air temperature in the room, an extended loose outlet is a symptom of poor lighting.

If echeveria leaves began to shrink, then this may be from a lack of moisture and a lack of nutrients in the soil.

shriveled leaves And sockets- a sign that the plant was not watered in extreme heat.

Types and varieties of echeveria

We offer you an acquaintance with the most commonly grown species and varieties of Echeveria. Popular in room culture are the following types:

Herbaceous Mexican perennial up to 15 cm high with oblong silver-light green leaves up to 9 cm wide, collected in a dense rosette. The tips of the leaves are red.

In the photo: Echeveria agavoides (Echeveria agavoides)

It is also a Mexican succulent shrub, reaching a height of 15-20 cm. It forms a loose rosette of oblanceolate, densely white-haired leaves with reddish-brown tips. The length of the leaves is from 6 to 10, and the width is up to 2.5 cm. The stem of the plant is covered with felted pubescence of a reddish hue.

In the photo: White-haired Echeveria (Echeveria leucotricha)

A plant with velvety leaves of juicy green color and orange-yellow flowers located on powerful peduncles. By the pubescence of the leaves and the color of the stem, this species resembles the white-haired echeveria, but differs from it in the obovate shape of the leaves, which can reach 6.5 in length and 4 cm in width.

In the photo: Echeveria pulvinata (Echeveria pulvinata)

Echeveria hairy (Echeveria pilosa)

A plant with a bare stem and leaves covered with a delicate pile.

It reaches a height of 70 cm. Its leaves, pubescent with soft pile, are located along the length of the entire stem. Their undersides and edges take on a crimson hue when exposed to the sun.

In the photo: Crimson Echeveria (Echeveria coccinea)

A weakly branching succulent shrub native to Mexico, forming aerial roots on the stem in the area of ​​the leaf scar. Rosette leaves 2 to 4 cm long and up to 1.5 cm wide have an oblong-rhombic shape and are covered with soft pubescence. The edges of the upper part of the leaves are bordered in red. Red flowers with yellow edges of the petals reach a length of 3 cm.

In the photo: Echeveria harmsii (Echeveria harmsii)

Echeveria Desmet (Echeveria desmetiana)

Forms a rosette of bluish leaves. With age, its long stem becomes ampelous. In mid-summer, yellow-orange flowers appear on the lateral petioles of the plant. This species has relative shade tolerance and the ability to withstand regular waterlogging.

Mexican herbaceous perennial with lateral daughter rosettes. Its stem reaches a height of 5 cm, the leaves are oblong, up to 6 cm long and up to 1 cm wide, light green in color with a bluish wax coating. Flowers are red-yellow.

In the photo: Echeveria graceful (Echeveria elegans)

Discovered in Mexico in 1976. This is a slow-growing, stemless species, forming a rosette up to 20 cm in diameter from beautiful and succulent leaves, bluish-white due to a thick wax coating of color. The leaves are 6 cm long and 3 cm wide. Large orange flowers are also covered with a wax coating.

In the photo: Echeveria Lau (Echeveria laui)

Mexican strongly branching shrub up to 20 cm high with a loose rosette of obovate dark green, reddening along the edges of leaves up to 2.5 long and up to 1.5 cm wide. The flowers of this plant are from 10 to 13 cm long, they are red on the outside, yellow on the inside .

In the photo: Echeveria multicaulis (Echeveria multicaulis)

Succulent up to half a meter high with a loose rosette of bright green above and pink on the underside of obovate leaves up to 8 cm long, up to 5 cm wide. There are red stripes along the upper side and along the edges of the leaves. Flowers yellow on top and red on the inside can reach a length of 17 cm.

In the photo: Echeveria nodulosa (Echeveria nodulosa)

A plant with flat and not so fleshy leaves with a wavy edge. The stem of this species is shortened, the leaves are tightly pressed to each other: the flower resembles a head of cabbage. In the middle of summer, up to several dozen flowers open in turn on 2-3 peduncles.

In the photo: Echeveria Shaw (Echeveria shaviana)

Herbaceous perennial, the stem of which reaches a height of 10 cm, and a rosette up to 15 cm in diameter consists of oblanceolate bright green leaves up to 5 cm long and up to 2 cm wide. The leaves are covered with long, sparse white hairs. The flowers of this species are yellow-red.

In the photo: Echeveria bristly (Echeveria setosa)

Echeveria tongue-shaped (Echeveria linguaefolia)

Semi-shrub 20-25 cm high, usually forming two fleshy trunks. Its peduncle is drooping, sometimes branching in the lower part and bearing straw-colored flowers.

At home, varieties and hybrid varieties of echeveria are also grown:

A hybrid variety with aerial roots forming in the area of ​​leaf scars and a large loose cup-shaped rosette of wide obovate leaves.

In the photo: Echeveria imbricata (Echeveria × imbricata)

Light-demanding hybrid variety with red-brown leaves.

In the photo: Echeveria Black Prince (Echeveria Black Prince)

Echeveria humpbacked flower Pearl of Nuremberg (Echeveria × gibbiflora Perle von Nurnberg)

A plant with pink-gray leaves, eventually forming an upright stem. At home, this plant, unfortunately, does not bloom.

In the photo: Echeveria humpbacked flower Pearl of Nuremberg (Echeveria × gibbiflora)

Echeveria humpbacked flower Metallica (Echeveria × gibbiflora Metallica)

A succulent shrub of hybrid origin, 30 to 70 cm high, with aerial roots and a loose rosette of gray-pink broad-scapular leaves up to 15 cm wide and up to 30 cm long. The flowers are light red on the outside and yellow on the inside.

Echeveria Miranda

Spectacular and very popular succulent of hybrid origin with small rosettes, as if lying on the ground, shaped like a lotus. There are varieties with different shades of leaves: bluish, purple, pink, scarlet, yellowish and silver.

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