Adirondack chair drawings. Garden chair adirondack

Want your own real throne? One of the most popular garden chairs, the adirondack, is an easy-to-make, spacious and comfortable place to relax.

We have described for you the process of making an adirondack chair with your own hands, which will not be difficult for you to make.

What a miracle and what to make it from

The Adirondack is a comfortable chaise-longue-style chair in which you can comfortably recline on a wide back and indulge in contemplation. The name comes from the area where its inventor lived. The beauty of an armchair is that during manufacturing it can be given special ergonomics and shape of the seat.

Traditionally, Adirondack is made from an inch board with a width of 100 and 150 cm. The lumber for the chair should be chosen as high quality as possible, the use of fruit and hard wood with a rich texture is encouraged: maple, aspen, pear, larch. You can use beech and hornbeam parts of transport pallets and boxes, if you have the means to handle them. Such garden furniture will take its rightful place in the garden, if you open it with pastel-colored alkyd enamel or apply stencil inscriptions under varnish.

Perhaps a chair, knocked together with ostentatious roughness from plywood or an aged board, will fit well into the situation on the site. It is recommended to work with sheet materials only if you have a router with a finger mill or band saw, otherwise the cutting of parts will be very delayed. Difficulties in drawing up a rational cutting scheme are also possible, but otherwise the choice of material is solely a matter of your taste.

Standard detailing of the chair

The basis of the adirondack is wooden shield, knocked down from two wide planks placed on the edge, on the top of which thin wooden slats... Due to the curved shape of the ribs, the planks lie along the curve of the seat that you define. At the front of the backboard, the seat forms the traditional rounding so that the last bar holds the backboard in the transverse plane. In the rear part of the shield, the ribs protrude from a third to half of the seat and act as hind legs.

From the front, the shield is raised by 25–40 cm with 150 mm wide boards screwed on the sides - the front legs. They can be strictly rectangular and located perpendicular to the floor, you can also tilt them with a cut of the bottom end or select on the front edge decorative bend... The legs rise 25-30 cm above the seat, the upper ends should be cut strictly parallel to the floor.

1 - front leg; 2 - side seat support; 3 - rear seat rail; 4 - bottom support backs; 5 - upper cross member of the back; 6 - bolts with a round head: 7 - back boards; 8 - armrest; 9 - seat rail; 10 - front bar; 11 - kerchief (armrest support)

From above, the front legs are covered with two wide boards that form the armrests. The length of these parts corresponds to the depth of the chair; curly trimming is also possible here. The tails of the armrests are pulled together by another strip of a narrow board, which serves as the upper support for the back. At this point, the armrests can be reinforced with two vertical boards fixed at the edge of the rear legs, but this is a departure from the original design.

It is customary to make the bed a little concave, so the back is much more comfortable. For this purpose, the edge of the crossbar connecting the armrests is made with a semicircular recess. The edge board of the seat is cut in the same way, 4–6 wide boards are screwed to the ends, forming the back. Boards can be laid close, with a gap, fanned out and change the shape of the parts as your imagination tells you. The upper edge of the back is traditionally cut with a rounding.

To arrange country cottage area durable and beautiful furniture, it is recommended to assemble a prototype, and then adjust its ergonomics for yourself. Parts can be trimmed and fastened in place, later you will remove templates from them for precise marking of cutting lines and drilling locations.

We make parts serially

Assembly of chairs of the original form with their subsequent decoration - great idea for business. In any case, the most useful methods for serial production of identical parts, which are mostly processed in pairs, or even in a stack of 3-4 pieces. Planks serve as blanks in any case, if you use sheet materials- first cut them into rectangular pieces.

The number of parts to be cut at a time depends on the cutting method. The jigsaw cuts about 50–60 mm without distortion, that is, a folded pair of workpieces. A finger mill will take three, but band-saw- up to 5 pieces.

The first detail is wide boards seat base 75-80 cm long. The right amount the workpieces are fastened with a clamp, the markings of the part are applied on the surface of the top. First long drill Drill two 8 mm holes in the front of the seat for attaching the legs and one 20 cm from the ends of the legs. Through the holes, the parts are fastened with bolts with a semicircular head, ground down to a thickness of 2–2.5 mm. The nuts are located on the side of the marking, a wide cap is placed under them.

The supporting part of the leg is cut at an angle of up to 30 °. The opposite edge of the board is trimmed to the difference between 90 ° and the first cut. At the top of the workpiece, the bend of the seat is cut, the tails of the rear legs are made a little thinner.

It is recommended to cut the jumper between the armrests and the extreme rear seat plate from one piece of 150x25 mm, about 60–65 cm long. The markings are applied so that the back curvature arcs are exactly 25 mm apart. The combination of several workpieces is carried out through the armrest attachment holes.

1 - lower back support; 2 - rear seat rack

backrest upper cross member (support for armrests)

Backboards have a maximum length of about 70 cm and are usually cut in pairs (left and right) with rounding of the ends.

The seat rails and front legs are simple rectangular, with only one end cutting and drilling job of all. The armrests can be of any shape, several blanks can be fastened together through two holes: for fixing the jumper and for confirming the front leg.

Gussets can be made from one square piece of board, sawn diagonally in a straight line or with a mirror bend.

After trimming, the ends of the fastened workpieces must be processed with a belt sander, after which the parts must be unfastened and processed individually sandpaper... The legs, slats and backrests can be chamfered straight. The edges of the backrest and armrests can be shaped figured. Finally, a fine sanding is carried out with zero grinding until smooth and texture appears.

Long-lasting tree - how to protect garden furniture

Usually, the Adirondack chair is almost always in the open air. For long service in such conditions, the tree requires mandatory processing.

First of all, each of the parts is soaked in a bath with a transparent antiseptic for 15–20 minutes; after drying, the boards must be treated with fine sandpaper again.

The decorative finishing of the parts is done before final assembly... Wood with a pronounced texture can be opened with two to three coats of clear polyurethane varnish. It is better to finish parts made of birch or ash with tinting compounds or pre-burn with alcohol parquet primer.

Assembly of the chair, attachment points

The ribs of the base of the seat are held together by its two outer strips on different sides. The holes made 12 mm from the edge will be drilled for 45 mm confirmation or 60 mm anodized screw. The front edge of the seat rises, the front legs are attached with bolts with a rounded head on the sides, tighten the nuts under the washer with inside.

In the center of each leg, headscarves are attached flush with the upper edge - one confirmation from the inside is enough. An armrest is superimposed on top, previously drilled holes expandable for screwing in three confirmations: one in the kerchief and two in the butt end of the leg. The rear edges are bolted to the backrest, nuts and washers can be hidden in pre-milled cells.

After assembly, the chair needs to be opened with varnish or oil and well painted over the places where the fasteners are installed. Enjoy your stay!

Make yourself comfortable. On an iconic chair. And contemplate the beauty of nature. The Adirondack armchair is a symbol of luxurious and comfortable country life... You don't even have to buy it - now you can do it wooden armchair for giving and at home with your own hands!

Furniture as a cult: the legendary Adirondack chair

Sitting on the Adirondack chair, American fishermen are leisurely fishing from the Hudson River, sitting on it, drinking cool cocktails in Haiti, businessmen tired from the hustle and bustle, lounging in this chair, European aristocrats enjoying the sunset on the Cote d'Azur. And so it has been for over 110 years.

Today this comfortable chair is used all over the world, but only those who know its history admire the wood of its wide armrests with special trepidation and admire the thoughtful design.

Once, back in 1903, a certain Thomas Lee went on vacation to a beautiful place in the Adirondack Mountains, in the state of New York. Enjoying life in summer house surrounded by nature, he once realized that he needed a comfortable chair. So that to take out to the river or just sit near the house. So that there was where to put a cup of coffee or a glass, so that you could sit in it with a pillow more comfortably and for a long time. And he made himself such a chair ... from 11 rough boards found in the barn.

When his friend, a local carpenter, saw this simple furniture, he appreciated it. And even in 1905, he quietly received a patent and put the chair into production, and for the next 20 years sold comfortable dark brown and green chairs throughout the country. Gradually "Adirondack" began to be copied all over the world.

All jokes, but interior designers today do not stop admiring this chair. Reinterpreted design models of the same "Adirondack" by Gino Levi-Montalcini, Gerrit Rietveld and many other designers are known.

And today we will try to make an Adirondack chair with our own hands!

To make a designer chair for a summer residence, you will need

Prepare materials and tools:

boards 6 meters: thickness 25 mm, width 14 or 15 cm - 2-3 pcs.;
self-tapping screws for wood 40 mm - packaging;
self-tapping screws for wood 70 mm (for perpendicular joining of boards) - packaging;
drill;
drill ∅ 3 mm;
screwdriver;
carpentry clamps (desirable);
square;
roulette;
meter ruler.

It's great if you have a jigsaw, a circular saw and an electric planer at home, but if you rarely do carpentry work, just order a cut in a workshop (often such workshops work at construction supermarkets).

As for the boards, everything is very conditional: you can make everything from the same, or you can take a board 1.5-2 cm thick for the back and seat, but for the legs and lower crossbars you can take boards up to 7 cm thick. old pallets.

When cutting, sometimes you have to cut a lot of knots - in this case, a little more wood will be needed. In a word, just show the drawing below in the workshop and tell us about your wishes for the final look. And of course, if the boards are not planed, ask them to be planed and chamfered: you must take home the sleek, beautiful details.

Wooden chair: sawing and installation

There are many variations on the theme of the Adirondack chair now. We have chosen the simplest basic model.

In the drawing, the lower crossbeams are bent, but for simplicity, you can cut them out in solid parts.

Let's start assembling. To prevent the boards from cracking, before screwing in the self-tapping screws, you need to drill holes for them with a drill: with a 3 mm drill. We screw in self-tapping screws, you can also coat it with a universal sealant-glue - very convenient. At the assembly stage, it is better to use clamps or call someone to help you.

It remains to properly polish the wood and paint it.

Chairs, as well as other furniture that can be used both indoors and outdoors, are very comfortable. To make it last as long as possible, follow 3 rules:

If the furniture will be used near water or in a humid climate (for example, you have a summer cottage by the sea), choose fine-pored wood: larch, oak, as well as persistent core areas of coniferous wood will do. In drier climates, other types of wood can be used, or even beech and hornbeam parts of transport pallets and boxes can be used.
If you want to put a tree outside, then sit in it in the house, it would be ideal to cover it with azure for external and internal work.
Remember that if the tree is exposed to moisture (street, damp room), it must be covered with an antiseptic primer. If the furniture is always in the living room, nursery or bedroom, no primer is needed.

Ready!

That's all: place a couple of small pillows on the chair, pour lemonade into a glass and enjoy nature in comfort!

Want your own real throne? One of the most popular garden chairs, the adirondack, is an easy-to-make, spacious and comfortable place to relax.

We have described for you the process of making an adirondack chair with your own hands, which will not be difficult for you to make.

What a miracle and what to make it from

Perhaps a chair, knocked together with ostentatious roughness from plywood or an aged board, will fit well into the situation on the site. It is recommended to work with sheet materials only if you have a milling cutter with a finger mill or a band saw, otherwise the cutting of parts will be greatly delayed. Difficulties in drawing up a rational cutting scheme are also possible, but otherwise the choice of material is solely a matter of your taste.

Standard detailing of the chair

The basis of the adirondack is a wooden shield, knocked down from two wide planks set on the edge, on top of which thin wooden slats are stuffed. Due to the curved shape of the ribs, the planks lie along the curve of the seat that you define. At the front of the backboard, the seat forms a traditional rounding so that the last strip holds the backboard in the transverse plane. In the rear part of the shield, the ribs protrude from a third to half of the seat and act as hind legs.

From the front, the shield is raised by 25–40 cm with 150 mm wide boards screwed on the sides - the front legs. They can be strictly rectangular and perpendicular to the floor, you can also tilt them with trimming the bottom end or choose a decorative bend on the front edge. The legs rise 25-30 cm above the seat, the upper ends should be cut strictly parallel to the floor.

1 - front leg; 2 - side seat support; 3 - rear seat rail; 4 - lower back support; 5 - upper cross member of the back; 6 - bolts with a round head: 7 - back boards; 8 - armrest; 9 - seat rail; 10 - front bar; 11 - kerchief (armrest support)

From above, the front legs are covered with two wide boards that form the armrests. The length of these parts corresponds to the depth of the chair; curly trimming is also possible here. The tails of the armrests are pulled together by another strip of a narrow board, which serves as the upper support for the back. At this point, the armrests can be reinforced with two vertical planks attached to the edge of the rear legs, but this is a departure from the original design.

To decorate a summer cottage with durable and beautiful furniture, it is recommended to assemble a prototype, and then adjust its ergonomics for yourself. Parts can be trimmed and fastened in place, later you will remove templates from them for accurate marking of cutting lines and drilling locations.

We make parts serially

Assembling chairs of an original shape and then decorating them is a great idea for a business. In any case, the most useful methods for serial production of identical parts, which are mostly processed in pairs, or even in a stack of 3-4 pieces. Planks serve as blanks in any case, if you use sheet materials - first cut them into rectangular fragments.

The first detail is the wide boards of the seat base, 75–80 cm long. The required number of blanks is fastened with a clamp, the part markings are applied on the upper surface. First, use a long drill to drill two 8 mm holes in the front of the seat for attaching the legs and one 20 cm from the ends of the legs. Through the holes, the parts are fastened with bolts with a semicircular head, ground down to a thickness of 2–2.5 mm. The nuts are located on the side of the marking, a wide cap is placed under them.

1 - lower back support; 2 - rear seat rack

backrest upper cross member (support for armrests)

Backboards have a maximum length of about 70 cm and are usually cut in pairs (left and right) with rounding of the ends.

Gussets can be made from one square piece of board, sawn diagonally in a straight line or with a mirror bend.

After trimming, the ends of the fastened workpieces must be processed with a belt sander, after which the parts must be unfastened and processed individually with sandpaper. The legs, slats and backrests can be chamfered straight. The edges of the backrest and armrests can be shaped figured. Finally, a fine sanding is carried out with zero grinding until smooth and texture appears.

Long-lasting tree - how to protect garden furniture

Usually, the Adirondack chair is almost always in the open air. For a long service in such conditions, the tree requires mandatory processing.

First of all, each of the parts is soaked in a bath with a transparent antiseptic for 15–20 minutes; after drying, the boards must be treated with fine sandpaper again.

The decorative finishing of the parts is done before final assembly. Wood with a pronounced texture can be opened with two to three coats of clear polyurethane varnish. It is better to finish parts made of birch or ash with tinting compounds or pre-burn with alcohol parquet primer.

Assembly of the chair, attachment points

In the center of each leg, headscarves are attached flush with the upper edge - one confirmation from the inside is enough. An armrest is superimposed on top, the pre-drilled holes are expanded to screw three confirmations: one into the headscarf and two into the butt end of the leg. The rear edges are bolted to the backrest, nuts and washers can be hidden in pre-milled cells.

After assembly, the chair needs to be opened with varnish or oil and well painted over the places where the fasteners are installed. Enjoy your stay!

In the considered option of making the Adirondack chair with your own hands, the design features are preserved, but there are no difficult joinery connections. It will not be difficult to repeat the project by making according to our drawings wooden parts and assembling the product with screws.

The work uses a planed 20 mm pine board, galvanized screws 4.5x40 mm, bolts 10x60 mm with a square headrest and nuts with washers. The jigsaw and sander will speed up the process, and manual frezer will allow you to neatly round off the edges, but all the workpieces can be cut out with an ordinary hacksaw, and the burrs can be removed manually with sandpaper.

The device of the Adirondack chair: 1 - back bar; 2 - screws; 3 - upper cross member; 4 - back leg; 5 - side support (spar); 6 - bolts; 7 - armrest; 8 - front leg; 9 - seat strip; 10 - armrest support

Manufacturing of parts

The most difficult elements of the chair are the two side supports of the seat. Make a full-size paper template for the side members.

Side support drawing

Draw the bottom side of the part, lift the first perpendicular line to the left and two more at appropriate angles to point A. Mark point C and draw a cutout for the cross brace as shown in the diagram.

Mark a 75 ° corner with vertex C, extend the bottom side with a line. Draw an arc with a radius of 116 mm, measure the corner at point D and connect them with a segment.

Draw a rounding between points A and B, using a square grid or an improvised template as in the photo.

Place the cutout template on the board, avoiding large knots and leaving small ones away from the edges of the blanks. Trace the contours and saw the parts using a saw on straight sections, and cut out the curly contours with a jigsaw. Guide the tool blade in the direction of the grain to reduce the amount of wood chipping.

Transfer the drawings of the remaining elements of the chair to the boards, also using a template, or draw directly on the blanks and mark the next identical part according to the cut out first.

Drawings of parts: 1 - upper backrest guide; 2 - the lower cross member of the back; 3 - armrest (2 pcs.); 4 - armrest support (2 pcs.)

The shape of the curvature of the armrests is not constructively important; you can draw them by hand or using a template. Mark the second part mirrored so that the chips when sawing are at the bottom of the workpiece.

Detail drawing: 1 - backrest strip (7 pcs.); 2 - seat strip (8 pcs.); 3 - front leg (2 pcs.) 4 - back leg (2 pcs.)

Grind the ends, if possible, joining the same workpieces together. Mill the edges of the upper surfaces of the armrests and backrest slats, or simply soften the sharp edges with a sander.

Assembling the chair

Wooden furniture always starts to rot from joints, inner surfaces which cannot be processed on a finished chair. Therefore, cover the parts with 2-3 coats of antiseptic before assembly.

Most of the components of the chair are connected with screws, the pilot holes for them are drilled with a combined countersink, matched to the thickness of the screws. When they want to hide the caps, they are deepened and closed with glue plugs.

Place the unnecessary board on the table, and on top place the left side support and front leg. Align the workpieces according to the drawing, mark the drilling points.

Chair sidewall assembly diagram

Make holes for the bolts and fasten the parts together. Install the rear leg by positioning it perpendicular to the bevel of the support. Assemble the right side of the frame in the same way. Connect the sides of the chair with the lower cross member of the backrest and the first bar of the seat.

Install supports on the front legs, fixing them with clamps for convenience. Screw on the armrests.

Attach the upper backrest guide by aligning it with the lower cross member. Right now it is possible to correct the possible accumulated millimeter inaccuracies of marking and uneven cuts.

Small errors are eliminated by shifting the head rail and trimming the corner under it. As a last resort, you will have to unscrew the bottom bar and adjust the cutout.

Mark center lines on the cross-boards and center plank of the back. Holding the latter at the top with your hand or grabbing it with a clamp, drill a pilot hole and tighten the lower screw. Check the vertical position and secure the top of the rail.

Screw all the strips one by one at regular intervals. Take a string and tie one end to a pencil and the other to a nail attached to the junction of the seat and back. Draw a radius of curvature, cut the planks according to the markings and sand the edges.

After adjusting the width of the last seat rail, put it in place. Inspect the assembled chair and sand the marks, chips and other defects. Sand thoroughly the upper surfaces of the backrest and seat parts.

Coat the wood with oil if you want to keep the natural shade. Use a synthetic resin glaze to create an opaque colored surface.

We figured out the drawings, tools and material. Now it's time to make the chair.

We take two six-meter boards. The description says 2.5, it went away in fact. I cut out knots, in one place my board was slightly damaged, so it turned out to be two and a half. In theory, two should be enough, but the stock never pulls!

My boards were not planed, so I sawed off the desired length from the board and planed the workpiece on both sides with an electric plane.

After that, it is necessary to mark the part exactly according to the drawing. For marking, we use a square and a tape measure, and for curved sections it is good to use a stainless steel meter ruler. I'll show you on the pictures later. Pay attention to the thickness of the seat and back boards. It is slightly less than the thickness of the parts of the supporting parts, therefore, it is necessary to work a little longer with a plane on these boards in order to achieve the required thickness.

After that, the jigsaw enters the battle. We carefully cut out everything that we marked out.

As a result, we get an almost ready-to-use part. By the way, here is the promised line.

When all the details are done, you need to chamfer the parts on which it is necessary. Chamfer where parts are not adjacent to each other.

The long awaited build process can now begin. The first step is to assemble the seat of the chair. To prevent the boards from cracking, before screwing in the self-tapping screw, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm under it. After that, we fasten the front legs clearly in size. According to the drawing, it is necessary to use three self-tapping screws, but first I recommend tightening one, and the rest can be screwed in later.

After, we fasten the rear legs. More precisely, not the legs, but the pillars of the back support of our Adirondack chair.

We fasten the backrest of our chair to these legs.

There is very little left! Screw on the armrest support.

And put the armrests in place.

Everything! Our Adirondack chair is ready! Can be used or painted and then used.

The chair is really very comfortable, I checked it on myself, family and friends. Everyone is delighted! So you do not deny yourself the pleasure of having a comfortable rest.

References

And here is the link to the drawings from the original source: pop.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/15/06/54d112e5a5fd4_-_PMX0706Adiron.pdf. I duplicated the drawings for this chair in the article, in case the path to the file changes.