Some people have a strange but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It is called the assembly of ship models from wood. What is needed to make such beautiful thing... It is not so easy to create a model from a tree. In this article, you will learn how to create from wood with your own hands. And also we will make small excursion into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name of the "Iron Pirate"; his homeland was England. He became the captain of a sailing ship at only 16 years old. At first he was a ship's priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really thundered when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made quite a few voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Doe

At the time of the dawn of fate, several sailing ships arrived at his property. Its main flagship was the Pelican. This ship was a five-deck three-masters. On board there were 20 artillery weapons. All sorts of maritime stories rarely tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it was with the Pelican that such a story happened by the will of fate. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian this name sounds like "Golden Hind"). It was under this second that it was inscribed in sparkling golden letters in the world history of seafarers. Francis Drake performed quite a few dizzying deeds on it, which were later told in history and adventure books.

It is such wonderful ships that make many people collect models of ships from wood with their own hands. Drawings of many of these structures can often be found on the Internet. So inspired ancient history sailing, we learn from this article information on how to do something like that.

DIY wooden ship model: from the beginning to the rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. Moreover, each of these stages is associated with several signs. A lover of miniature shipbuilding may need to be able to change available materials... It is also important to expand the selection of objects to be modeled. After he has developed enough, then he can have a mass production of models. The next step will be the development of stand exhibition modeling from those sets that he already has. Subsequently, it is possible to develop up to the formation of separate segments. It can be anything - from ship models and in the flesh to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all kinds of other cars.

DIY wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's get down to creating such a ship. Carving prefabricated ship models out of wood is not an easy task. You will need a lot of tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a block (and, if necessary, a saw), thin fabric, superglue, a long wooden spire, a rope, a drill. In addition to this, you will need two more very important parameters. Firstly, it is time, and secondly, an important quality of those people who are engaged in creating prefabricated models of ships from wood is patience.

Carving a ship out of wood

First you have to work with a chisel. You have to file everything plus remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It won't take you so much time - just two minutes. In those two minutes, the pretreated block will later become a boat. Now you need to clean up the block. You should carefully scrape off the bark. Hold the block itself directly towards the instrument. Let's take standard design as an example for our small models of ships, which we will build according to the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on the block. Following this, process the block with a sharp knife. The tilt of the blade itself should be at an angle of about 10 degrees. When you plan, keep in mind that this is not the most easy job and so be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, then it will be quite difficult to fix everything. Remove the shavings layer by layer, while doing your best to process the original block as smoothly as possible. It is important that the top and bottom must be parallel.

Please note that you do not need to throw out the shavings. The fact is that, in principle, it can be used as additional material as mulch.

Carving of the front part and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, and also the back. We will cut them out in exactly the same way as was mentioned above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order for you to get the bow of the boat, you will have to saw off a piece from the front. Following this, you must round off the saw cut with a knife. When making the nose, try to tilt the knife blade itself back. It should point towards the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have multiple spiers. Therefore, drill a number of holes, they should be slightly larger in size than the beams themselves. It is important that there are not too many holes. Otherwise, you may get a crack. And because of a crack, as you know, a severe disaster can occur - go to leak. Do not use glue! If you do this, then further work will pass with much more difficulty.

Setting sails on the model

Decide, for starters, how many panels you want to get on your final ship. Let's take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. Following this, take a few wooden spiers and cut them off. Cut the fabric in a trapezoid shape. Then start gluing them together. Make notches on the branches of the sails, fasten each branch with the corresponding notch. Then glue the middle of the edges to the sails. Repeat for all masts. It is best if you build the rear mast first, then the middle mast, and then the bow mast.

Now let's set up the upper flying sail. Cut out the shape from the fabric in the form kite... Take a thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the panel. Leave ends on either side for all corners. Glue a small piece of thread onto the top of the boat. It should be slightly higher than the bow of the boat itself. Measure from the opposite corner down to the middle of the lower sail on the front mast. Then cut the very thread that you measured and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

You should leave some thread on each side. Pull them back and glue them straight into the inside of the boat. Then you can cut off the excess rope. Create and attach the back panel in the same way. It should be attached to the back of the rear sail. Measure, trim, and make sure it fits over the two tabs. Then glue them in the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make the simplest ship models out of wood. And although this article describes everything only in general terms, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a "shipbuilder". If, of course, you are interested in it. Trust me, it's worthwhile!

Sailing ships are subdivided into frigates and linear. The most powerful three-masted ships are linear ones, which are characterized by displacement, armament and number of crew.

This class of sailing ships dates back to the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons), able to conduct a linear battle (simultaneously from all onboard guns from the side line).
In an abbreviated form, they are called "battleships".

You can download model drawings for free on the website or from other sources.

In May 1715, the Russian cannon battleship of the 3rd rank "Ingermanland" (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard in St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of his drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52m; width - 14m; depth of the hold - 6m. Peter's gold standard hoisted from his mast. This ship was for a long time the flagship of the Russian fleet.

Ship ranks in the sailing fleet:

• The first rank - three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
• The second rank is a three-deck (a ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
• The third rank is two-deck (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
• The fourth rank is two-deck (from twenty to sixty guns).

L "Artemise

L "Artemis was a cannon frigate of the French fleet. Class of the frigate Magicienne, weight 600 tons, on board 32 cannons, of which 26 were twelve pounds long guns and six six pounds. The frigate was laid down in Toulon in December 1791. It had a length of 44 meters 20 centimeters. ...

Frigates were called military one-deck or two-deck three-masted ships. They differed from battleships in their smaller size. Their purpose is cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a surprise attack on an object with the aim of further capture or destruction. The largest models were called line frigates. According to statistics, more frigate models than battleships are downloaded for free.

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

making

CHINESE JONK

CHINESE JONK
So we got to the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate dimensions,
since I did the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the dimensions. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torture you maritime terms because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a public language. Well, you know the basic terms, such as deck, mast, yard, keel. Here we will begin our work from the keel.But first, we will do some preparatory work... We take a sheet of veneer, put it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix it with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. We proceed to the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, the excess can always be cut off. After the keel has been cut out, we will sand it a little. Remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, remove it completely.
Spread on one side with glue and leave to dry. You can spread on two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything is drying, we mark the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to veneering the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I'm telling you. Veneer mode on strips slightly larger than the keel width. We turn on the iron at full power but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and iron it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed onto a block.
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ribs of the ship. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the curvature of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we start to mess with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved with inside the height of the ribs in relation to the inner part of the keel to the deck will naturally also change. I will try to explain how best to do this. Myself
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We put the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. From the front, mark 8 cm also from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should look something like this,
the back side is 8 cm, the front side is 5 cm. On the front part of the keel we make a step for supporting the deck (photo 5). Next, we try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn it over to the top with the keel. Find the lowest point between the keel and deck and place the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you place the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be positioned at the start of the curved front of the deck.
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from deck to keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first blank-template. We lay on the rectangle of the future edge, combining the upper part and the right top corner... We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic configuration of the rib
will remain. We also make the back part and one rib between them. After that we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is from the back. After the ribs are ready and adjusted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck.
When all this is done, we make inserts between the edges along the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We begin the most laborious work - we will fan the bottom of the ship in strips. I have them
width equal to 6 mm. We take the prepared veneer sheet and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
ship one to one to the bow and overlap to the rear of the ship. Pre-smear with fresh glue at the bonding site. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and start making additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow part is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The rear part also starts from the rounding, it is leveled 16.6 cm, protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm.
We glue the front part of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we will veneer the main deck until the start of the rounding and installation of the rear part of the additional deck. Next, glue the back part. It does not need to be veneered as it is covered by deck superstructures. The decks were glued, rounded off and we proceed to making the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Start from the rounding point. The rear of the side has a deployed
an angle of 105 degrees. After the strips have been cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried and begin to veneer. Cut off two veneer strips in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards were made, but since they should be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. It will not be difficult for you to make the rear part of the side. Next, go to
deck superstructure rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be solid. A small explanation for the photo. Side
the platforms should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After the deck is done, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and then we fan it. Next, we make the next sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The rear of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck is made, glued and veneered, we do
trailing boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, go to the bow of the model. We also make the front sides with
an extended angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to making an insert with windows and an upper platform. The dimensions of the upper platform. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes by 6 cm. The rear part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we have made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we will fan the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, fan them from the inside, mark
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm higher than the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneering the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, go to the railing. Strip mode with a width of 4 mm. We veneer them on three sides, glue them stepping back from the edge of 1 mm, sawing them down. Next, we mark them and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but we will only fan the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly taller than the others. This is to make it easier to mark up.
Drilled a hole, tried it on on the pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. After all the railings have been installed. Cut off the excess, clean and
fanning. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneer the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. Moving on to marking and installing masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we are starting to stain it. We fix those parts that you see fit. We finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for the ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). All that remains is to varnish the model, make the sails, and then set them up. For the sails, we need material, a sheet of whatman paper for the pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you can handle the fabrication and installation of the sails.