Production of master keys, rolls, opening of padlocks. How does a lockpick work?

PRO lock picks

I am often asked questions about how to make lockpicks, how to learn how to unlock locks with lockpicks. I will answer why to do it, they have been made for you long ago and industrial production has been set up. All the picks that you see in the photographs are manufactured abroad by industrial means. Their purpose is very diverse: they are for the police, and for rescuers, firefighters, etc. However, they are commercially available and anyone can buy them. Lockpick sets can also be ordered online.

You can see the lock picks that are used to unlock locks with cylinder mechanism, they are also called locks with a profile cylinder. These are the locks that are the easiest to unlock, which is why I recommend starting with these locks. It is very easy to learn how to use them, for this you just need to imagine how such a mechanism works. Work principles different types locks are very clearly presented on the site of the "Factory of locks and hardware" where there are professionally made flash videos showing the work of locks. Below are photographs of single picks and sets for unlocking locks with a cylinder mechanism with one row of pins.

The unlocking principle is as follows. A "L" -shaped plate is inserted into the keyhole in the upper part (they are visible in the photographs) and created by means of its tightness (rotation) of the cylinder. But the cylinder does not turn, because it is hindered by spring-loaded pins. Further, the master key itself is inserted into the keyhole and the pins are alternately lowered, while not loosening the tightness. In this case, at some point in the sinking of the pins, a small (fractions of millimeters) rotation of the cylinder mechanism will occur. Due to an error in the drilling of holes for pins, and it is always there, even in the most expensive locks, one (or several) pins are "hung out" when lowering, i.e. do not interfere with the rotation of the cylinder, then, pressing the remaining pins in stages, we lower them all to the rupture line (the pins usually consist of three parts) and turn the cylinder one turn, then the operation is repeated again. You are reading this much longer than unlocking the lock. Of course, it's better to see it once.

But this is a mechanical "pistol" for unlocking locks with a cylinder mechanism, it can already be used to unlock cylinders with two rows of pins. The principle of its operation is the same. We tighten the cylinder with an "L" -shaped plate, insert a master key into the key hole, which is fixed at the end of the "pistol" and, pressing the "trigger", strike the pins. When they fall through, the cylinder rotates. The "pistol" has regulation of the amplitude of movement of the master key, and the frequency of blows is regulated by your hand.

Well, these are electrical devices, the same as a mechanical "pistol", but for the lazy - they run on batteries. But in fact, it is much better than a mechanical analogue, since they allow you to finely manipulate the master key in the key hole.

I myself have used all these devices for unlocking the locks. By the way, I started my training only when a mechanical "pistol" fell into my hands. After that, I became interested in unlocking the lock in the old, "old-fashioned" way. I will say this, I unlocked the locks just for fun and in class with my experts and began to do it in a matter of seconds. True, I unlocked old domestic locks (they did not differ in the accuracy of production), but the current Chinese ones (including APEX). Now think, in how many seconds will a thief open your door?

May troubles pass you by!

Method one:

take two staples, the first is fully unbend, and folds in half. After that, one of its half bends several times, so that the bends form between themselves no more than sharp corner as shown in diagram 1.

Then you need to determine on which side the cylinders are located - scheme 2, and insert the manufactured master key all the way into the keyhole, with the curved side towards the cylinders and try to turn it clockwise, with sharp but neat movements, trying not to bend it. If the attempt is unsuccessful, repeat the whole action again, but so that the "pattern" of the master key being made does not coincide with the previous one.

Some helpful tips:

Always keep an eye on the top or bottom there are cylinders, it usually depends on which way to turn the pick. For example, if the cylinders are on top, as shown in diagram 2, then the master key must be turned counterclockwise, and not vice versa. Locks of this type are usually installed on office furniture (drawers, cabinets, etc.). If the made master key does not fit the lock you are opening at the moment, do not in any case throw it away. It may still be useful to you, it has not come to this castle, it will come to another. For these purposes, I advise you to get you a special wallet or something like that, where you will put the master keys made by you at your leisure (always carry this wallet with you, just in case, because there are different cases).

Surely it happened to you that you forgot your keys at home. This "pleasant surprise" can happen at the most inopportune moment and pretty much ruin your life. What do you want to do if the key is broken or you accidentally lost it on the way home? Of course, for this case, each key has a duplicate, but it is far from always available. Therefore, now we will talk about a fundamentally different solution, namely: we will try to make a key for all locks and open the door with our own hands. But, if you do not have time at all to find and use improvised means for opening, we recommend that you contact a specialized organization http://newzamok.ru

The mechanism of the pin cylinder

So how do we open the lock without a key? Good question, but first, let's figure out exactly how the lock works and how does it work in general? Most locks in the CIS countries are based on either a pin or a perforated cylinder. These two cylinders have significant differences, but in general, their principle of operation is similar and is based on a spring-pin mechanism.

Simply put, pins are small elongated rods supported by a spring. Their principle of action is to build a certain combination that opens the lock.

When you insert a key into such a cylinder, all the rods fall into place, forming a predetermined structural pattern. It is precisely this element of the core's secrecy that we have to imitate by opening the unfortunate lock that stands in your way.

DIY lock picks

To open an ordinary English lock without a key, we need two master keys. One of the master keys will keep the lock in tension, like a lever, gradually turning the cylinder of the larva, and the other will press the pins, exposing them in a certain sequence.

The material for making elementary master keys can be a lot of things, ranging from the most ordinary paper clip or hairpin, which will not last you long, but will have time to fulfill their role, and ending with more wear-resistant materials.

For example, a sequential pin lock pick can be machined from a hacksaw blade. It will be strong enough, but elastic. This factor is important, since the master key can easily break right in the door lock, and it will be extremely problematic to get it without special tools. Such a tool should have a small recess at the end, the so-called "hook", which will be quite convenient to press on the rods and open the door.

The master key that turns the lock should be more solid, in the form of an L-shaped "handle" with a longitudinal protrusion at the end. This ledge must be made rectangular so that it can easily pass into the keyhole of the lock. Such a locksmith tool can be made, for example, from an ordinary small-diameter hex key, and it will serve you for a long time.

Breaking

The process of picking the lock should ideally not take more than 2-5 minutes, but you may need much more time at first. So please be patient and practice at your castle. Do this slowly, in stages, memorizing every detail of the process as carefully as possible. In the future, having honed your skills to perfection, you will open such locks without much difficulty.

For information on how to open the lock with a hairpin, see the following story:

Let's consider the stages of opening the lock in more detail.

We insert the L-shaped master key into the groove of the core and turn it clockwise, while applying a slight constant pressure. It is necessary so that when you press the rods, the next ones do not return to their original position.

We insert the pick-hook into the core hole and alternately press on each pin, which in modern locks can be on average from 5 to 8 pieces, depending on the company and the country of manufacture. You need to squeeze the pins methodically and consistently, otherwise you will not succeed.

If the lock could not be opened the first time, repeat the steps. How do you know if the lock has opened, because you have not used the key? Everything is very simple. At the end of this process, the cylinder should succumb to the rotation of the pick-lever. In this case, you can consider all the stages of picking the lock successful and mentally congratulate yourself.

Perforated cylinder working mechanism

A lock with a perforated cylinder is based on a similar operating principle, but has a number of significant differences. One of the most important is that the core pins here have a two-component structure, and to open the lock, you need to accurately hit the rods in the perforation on the key plate.

Perforations are small circular indentations on the surface of a key that create a combination of a secret mechanism. The core of such a lock is a complete double-sided pressure system.

Thus, in order to open a door with a perforated core, it is necessary to be able to imitate the code of the secret double-sided pins of the lock. This is a rather difficult task for an inexperienced burglar who simply does not know how to open such a door, which is why such locks are rapidly gaining popularity in our time. Now almost everyone entrance doors equipped with such protective mechanisms, so that you can be calm about the safety of your property.

We must warn you that this method of opening the lock was described exclusively for use on your property, as a locksmith's trick, but in no case with the aim of breaking into other people's protective mechanisms. Opening other people's locks is a crime and entails criminal liability in accordance with applicable law.

K Making lockpicks with your own hands, using improvised means, is not so difficult as it might seem to some. But your efficiency, your result directly depends on the quality of the tool. The shortcomings of the master key can be compensated for by a high level of professionalism, but it is certainly not the other way around. For educational purposes, I still advise you to make a master key yourself, undermining and tweaking it if necessary.

I would like to say that it is not necessary to make a master key using a template downloaded from the Internet. You can come up with your own, unique model. You need to understand how the master key opens the lock, and when it is created, it is guided by this.

I advise you to watch the video where it is described in detail how to make a master key at home.

A small digression from the topic. Two reasons pushed me to this guide: many argue that it is almost impossible to make sensible master keys at home, and the fact that there are a lot of guides on the Internet for creating these, but only for cylinder locks.

We will try to make master keys for "English", disc, tubular and lever locks.

For manufacturing, we need the following tools:

emery

emery with flexible abrasive disc (optional)

the so-called "Drimel" type engraver, you can't do without it!

Drill

and a felt circle with GOI paste, not necessary but recommended

Also a couple of standard tools such as a hammer, etc.

And of course, there are two main ones, without which nothing will come of it: BRAINS
AND HANDS

preferably straight! :)

Lockpicks for opening "English" cylinders.

For the manufacture of these master keys, I used a steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm., But you can also use a hacksaw blade (for metal), an old Soviet folding rule (too thin for me). For shaping, I used a template downloaded from the Internet.

Printed, cut out, and glued with super glue. Of course it is possible by eye, but here the shape and size play a huge role, especially in the first and third from the left. We rivet the wire slightly, if the shape of the master key required it. We remove the excess on the emery, bring the thickness to the limit we need, then with the milling cutter we are engaged in fitting according to the glued pattern. For this purpose, I used attachments: edging disc, diamond disc (for very small parts).

After that, the part is grinded on a flexible abrasive wheel, or manually (grinding is required!) So that the master key does not cling to the inside of the cylinder and does not cause us discomfort.
And of course we polish on a felt wheel, this operation is not at all necessary, grinding is enough, but I want the tool to look aesthetically pleasing. Well, for the "tightness" or "tensioner" I took two hexagons ( different sizes) and slightly removed with emery on the sides, so that it was flat.

For convenience, I used a heat-shrinkable tube on the handle (sold on the radio market). Print the chains on the cylinders for now, because it's all on the Internet.

Latch key for "Tubular" locks.

A video showing this key is also the sea, but I have not seen how to make it from scrap materials and normally. For production, we need any tubular key, preferably with a lock, I purchased a hinged company "Lex" (which I was).

We also need a clip of paper clips from a stationery or construction stapler

On the key, we need to select seven grooves (if the lock is seven pins). This can be done both with a "domel" and manually with a flat file.

The main thing is that the longitudinal grooves are flat and not semicircular, and do not overdo it with depth. It should be no deeper than what it was. Next, we cut off three staples from the clip so that they do not crumble and bite in half. The pins are ready. After that, you need to choose a radial groove for the elastic, this is done to better press the "pins" of the clips. I cut off the gum itself from a hose with a diameter of 7mm (inner), 12mm (outer) and 4mm thick. It is not necessary to observe the dimensions, it is important that the “pins” are pressed tightly, you can even use an elastic band for money.

In the end, we should get this kind of master key:

Well, I think you know how to use it, and if you don’t know, look on the Internet (there is).

Pick-decoder for disc locks.

These picks are a little more difficult than the previous ones. The first of the type-setting aluminum screwdriver (inside there were hexagonal bits)

As you can see from the photo, it is hollow in the nutria, closer to the "nose" the inner diameter is smaller (that's what you need), cut just above the middle. Inside a copper tube (diameter 10mm) soldered from one end collet, for clamping, changing and adjusting the manipulator, flared from the other end in order to be clamped by the lid (the attachments were stored there).
There are two bolts in the spout for clamping, changing and adjusting the tightness. And, yes, there are notches on the copper tube, two millimeters each. And yet, holes are drilled through and through in the lid and a thread is cut for a bolt so that the medical tube does not rotate.

Move on.

The micrometer was taken as the basis for this master key-decoder because of the already prepared scale, which is the best fit for our purposes.

We change the native axis to a suitable rod with a diameter of 8 mm, or even a bolt with a diameter of 9 mm with a cap, in which we grind the thread. Next, at the end we drill two through holes and cut a thread (I used a thread with a diameter of 4mm) to clamp and center the manipulator.
For tightness, you can take a tube with a diameter of 8mm and cut half of it to a length of 2mm. It should be clamped with a collet in front of the micrometer. Although I made an interference fit from a single piece of a rod with an offset of the center, why think for yourself. As a manipulator, a steel, elastic wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm was used, from the end it was slightly riveted so that it would not turn.

Picks for lever locks.

I think many have seen master keys for levers, I mean "branded" ones. So I found the tubes 5mm and even 4mm in diameter, but as the tightness itself, I didn’t think of it to be reliable and even at home, but I don’t want to spend $ 300 either. And I decided to make the following master key for the trial:

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in it. In the middle of the key, a groove is selected (with a milling cutter with an attachment: trimming disc) for the manipulator almost to the center. The manipulator is screwed on with a thin steel wire so that it does not jump out of the groove. Of course, there is an interference fit with a minimum lift. This pick is simple and pretty reliable. But I wanted more versatile and aesthetic.

Here, the same key blank was used, with the same keyway, but with a slightly different preload without zero lift. At the same time, a brass hexagon that was lying in the barn went into action, holes were drilled in the first one: 5mm diameter along (for a blank) and across with a thread with a diameter of 4mm (for bolts in order to clamp a blank). In the second, there are also two holes: along 2mm (for the manipulator) and across with a thread with a diameter of 4mm (for a bolt in order to clamp the manipulator) This master key is considered universal, but requires a little more skills than the previous one.

P.S. The author does not bear any responsibility for your legitimate and unlawful actions. All he wanted was to prove that at home it is possible, if not all that much. Including making with your own hands lockpicks for opening a variety of locks.

Lock pick is a specialized tool used to open locks without using a key or breaking the lock.

The first "professional" lockpick was made by the American inventor Alfred Hobbs, who received several patents for his lockpicks and in 1851 founded Hobbs Hart & Co. Ltd, which traded in master keys.

Lockpicks can be used to pick locks by criminals. According to the "Criminalistic Encyclopedia" by RS Belkin, master keys can be classified according to the types of locks they are intended for breaking (cylinder, lever, spring); the principle of operation of each type of master key is somewhat different. Uistiti (a term from thieves' jargon, derived from the English name for marmosets - a genus of small South American monkeys), which is a handicraft tool, similar to tongs, and designed to grab the tip of a key left in the lock from the inside of the door, can also be used as a lock-picking. SI Potashnik in his work “Forensic investigation of locks” distinguishes uistiti as a separate type of devices for opening locks, different from the master key.

At the same time, lock picks can also be used, for example, by locksmiths in the event of a lock or key breakage or loss of a key. In addition, sometimes picking one's own locks with the help of master keys can be a hobby or even a semblance of sports, with the presence of "interest groups".

The attitude towards master keys and their use in different historical and modern states is different, but mostly negative. For example, in the Brazilian Empire it was illegal to possess or sell any item that could be considered to be hacked. In some states - for example, in Great Britain and Japan - even keeping lockpicks is actually prohibited.

How and from what to make master keys

What do we need for this

a drill or machine, or better a sharpener;
abrasive circle (if only a drill) (Photo1);
folding meter (Photo2) or a suitable plate with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm (the main thing is that it is good metal and not too bent, for example a knife, a hardened plate or a spring of suitable size) we will make the master key from it;
we will make a small hexagon from it;
tested (any suitable mask from the castle, but it is better to some Korean, since it is easier to start training);
teski (without them it will be very inconvenient);
patience and hands from the right place.

Let's start!

First you need to choose which master key we want to make (there is a huge selection). We will do one of the three simplest and most common. We disassemble the meter for this, we need to grind off the rivets on the sides, but do not throw them away, they will still be useful to us (see Photo 3).

The next stage is the processing of the meter link, we process it according to the dimensions shown in Photo4. Processing is carried out using a stone nozzle (see Photo 1), the main thing is not to overheat the meter link. It is not worth doing too long a working part, as it can break, and all we need is for the master key to reach the last soldier (see Photo 5).

After we have made the master keys, we need to polish them, this is done so that they do not cling to anything, so that no one speaks, and it is easier to work with polished master keys (it is a very delicate science to open locks with master keys).

Now we fasten the ready-made master keys three at a time with the same rivets, but you don't need to fasten it as you like (see Photo 6).

The next thing we will do is a pusher, it is needed to give a turning force to the lock.

Take hexagon 3 or a suitable rod of good metal and make a “poker” (see Photo 7).

You can also make a pusher from the key (see Photo 8), we just remove the working part and leave only the upper part of the key.

Let's consider other types of locks, master keys for them and methods of opening without master keys.

The first one we'll look at is Finnish castle so-called disk with semicircular keys.

It usually opens in two ways:

1. Convolution it is made from nozzles (bits) from KRAFTOOL or similar well-known companies, but not from such as STAYER and similar consumer goods. It can be made from rods of a good alloy, it is checked by poking. The best thing, of course, is to make it out of titanium, you can get it from turners and process it there. It looks like a roll, see Photo 9 as a blank key with a hexagon at the end under the head. Processing bits with the same stone, see Photo 1 and most importantly, the temperature of the bits during processing should not exceed 80 degrees, as this will lead to metal tempering. After processing, the finished roll must be sanded, this is done so that it does not break. Imagine if you make a scratch on the glass and hit it, then the glass will break in this place on the roll, the same if there is a scratch, then it will roll up in this place, Checked! Well, everyone understands how to use it. We insert the roll all the way into the lock, put on the head and turn it clockwise.
2. Using a puller. Self-tapping bolts are purchased. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the discs until it stops so that the bolt head protrudes from the lock by a centimeter, this is done in order to hook the puller. The puller looks like this, see Photo 10. In the same way, you can open an English (pin) lock.

Consider padlocks

Well, it's all just there is no point in opening the padlocks if you can bypass it. We take a monkey wrench that is 40 centimeters long, the longer the easier it is to wield it. We clamp one of the darlings of the door and bend it.

Bambing this method was invented back in 1950, it was based on simple method... We all played billiards, if we hit ball 1, then we give it an impulse to hit. Ball 1 striking against 2, the ball stops, and 2 begins to move. As we know, cylinder locks have two soldiers in each cell. If we hit the upper soldiers, they will remain in place and the lower ones will go down all the way for a few nano seconds. If at this moment we begin to turn the lock will open it is not difficult as it will seem the first time. According to this method, they came up with spring pistols that hit the soldiers. But recently they came up with a brilliant thing BUMP-key, see Photo 11.

Now I will explain the meaning of the alteration. We need to open the lock, no matter what good company we get the key from the same lock we grind the grooves to the maximum length of the secret, now we grind the nose and stop of the key, this is done so that the key, after we have inserted it, leaves a gap between the key and cylinder 0, 5-1.0mm. Now, if we hit the end of the key, it will go 0.5-1.0mm into the cylinder, forcing the soldiers to go down. The forward energy of the lower soldiers and at this moment we turn the key. In this way, you can even open Mul-T-Lock and absolutely any cylindrical locks with vertical and horizontal cutting of secrets.

Good luck in your endeavors and do not break the law!

Original article in English

In order to be able to open a lock it is important to have the right tools for the job.
This section will teach you what tools are required for the particular lock you are attempting to open.

The majority of warded locks come in the form of padlocks. The tools needed for such a lock can either be made or purchased at low cost. These being skeleton keys. This type of lock is the only type which skeleton keys are available for. At this point it should be noted what a skeleton key actually is in order to dispel any myths about them.
A skeleton key is simply a key which only consists of enough metal to open the lock. With the warded lock, with reference to the mechanisms section, it can be seen that part of the lock does not move, i.e. the actual ward. This is where a key which only has enough metal to operate the locking part, comes in. The diagram below illustrates the function and operation of the skeleton key.

As can be seen, part of the key has been filed away preventing the key from being stopped by the ward, thus allowing the remaining end section to come into contact with the locking mechanism and open the lock.

These skeleton keys can be bought quite cheaply, however, they can also be made with little difficulty. A skeleton key for a particular make of a warded lock which opens other locks in the same series can be made quite easily by removing part of the key which would be obstructed by the ward. The diagram below shows how a key to a lock can be made to open other locks of the same series and possibly warded locks of other manufacturers.

The following illustration depicts other skeleton keys which can be manufactured.

Pin tumbler & wafer

The tools required to open these two types of locks are similar and will therefore be looked at together.

Unfortunately, contrary to popular belief, there are no skeleton keys which open this type of lock as is dependent in films, but is more down to skill and practice.

Hook picks

These are for the use of "pure picking" as will be explained in the techniques section.

All that is needed here is to understand what they are and to appreciate that they come in a variety of sizes.

Rakes come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The diagram below shows some fo the major ones.

Turning Tools / Tension Wrench

A vital requirement in the picking of these types of locks.

Bypass pick

This tool can be easily made by grinding a hacksaw blade to a tapered point similar to that shown below.

Lifter pick

The size of this will be determined by the lever lock to be picked.

Turning Tool / Tension Wrench

This tool, although has the same name as that used for pin and wafer locks, is very different in construction. Both by way of shape and strength of metal used. The reason for this will be discussed in the techniques section.

Combination Brief Case

Combination Probe

This type of probe doesn "t require the strength of the similar bypass pick used for pin tumbler locks but instead must be extremely thin.

This probe is for the sole purpose of opening brief case combination locks.

The probe which I constructed for this use was made from a feeler guage. In particular a number 12

Constructing Picks

Although picks are relatively cheap to purchase it can often be quite difficult obtaining them and finding outlets which will sell them to you.

This need not be a serious problem as adequate picks can be constructed by oneself with a little hardwork and patience.

In order to make a pick it is a vital requirement that you have a grinder, as files will not shape the metal required to make a strong and long lasting pick.

This brings us to an important issue, i.e., what metal should be used and where can it be obtained? Well for a pick to be of any use it must fulfil two main criteria. It must be strong and it must also be thin, (to get past any fancy key hole which stands between you and the mechanism).

Such metal can easily be found in the form of hacksaw blades. These can be marked into the shape of picks by use of a permanent pen and can then be ground carefully to the shape required. This metal is extremely useful and can be used to construct the hook picks, rakes, bypass pick and lever lock lifter pick.

Feeler guage sets, as available from hardware or automobile shops, also provide metal which can be used. Although some of these are only useful for shims they can be used for picks or probes, (especially combination probe), depending on their strength and thickness.

The metal used for turning tools both for pintumbler / wafer and lever will vary. For a turning tool used to open a pin tumbler or wafer lock any springy metal which can be bent to the shape illustrated above, i.e, the straight forward simple turning tool type A, without the tool losing its shape will be sufficient.

The lever lock turning tool must be constructed from a much more rigid and stronger metal. It should be such that once in the required shape will not bend as it must be able to exert a strong turning force.

Before studying the process of opening locks with a paper clip without having a key, it is important to know that not every locking mechanism can be opened in such a simple way, and a master key from a paper clip will not help. To unlock some of them, you need a special specific tool that differs from the usual stationery.

There are several main types of locks:

Materials for work

To make a homemade lock pick, three things are needed that are not at all in short supply and are always available:

Tool making

To open the door without a key from two staples using pliers, you need to make a master key and a tensioner.

Opening locks with a paper clip

Depending on the type of lock, there are many ways to open the door with a paper clip.

Method 1. It can be used to open pinned door locks with a cylinder mechanism, as well as a simple padlock.

The tensioner must be inserted into the bore of the lock and apply circular pressure in the direction of rotation of its mechanism. First, try moving the paperclip to the right. Usually, in locks, the key turns clockwise, although there are exceptions. Sensitive hands will be able to choose the right direction of the turn. With the right action, the paper clip encounters less resistance at the moment of turning the mechanism than when choosing the wrong direction.
During operation, the presence of a constant slight tension of the mechanism is important. After determining the direction of rotation, the pressure on the paper clip must be fixed, and with a paper clip, try to find the pins in the cylinder. Most locks have five pins, which, in a certain combination, open the lock. They need to be pressed in order, starting from the rear edge of the lock hole.
When tightening the tensioner slowly, each of the pins must be fixed. When placing the pin in the correct position, you may notice a slight movement or hear a click. You need to work with a paper clip-master until you get the feeling that all the key pins are in place. Then the tensioner should be turned in the chosen direction and the lock will open immediately.

Method 2. It is usually used when locating the lock inside the handle of an interior door.

At the same time, the working tool is slightly modified: the paper clip must be unbent, and its end must be bent in the form of the letter "G".
The prepared master key must be inserted into the hole of the lock and strongly press down the pressure plate of the mechanism with it, while turning the handle. This will open the lock.

Method 3. They can open interior door when the "tongue" of the lock is seized.

The paperclip should be fully extended and bent in a semicircle. Then the tool must be inserted into the space between the end of the door and its box with the catch of the "tongue" so that both ends of the paper clip are in the hands.
Pressing the door, they need to be pulled towards you until the "tongue" snaps into place. As a result of these efforts, the door will open.

Method 4. In this way, the latches are opened.

The straightened end of the paper clip must be passed between the door leaves so that it is located under the latch.
Then the paper clip must be lifted up until the latch is removed and the door opens.

On such locks, the door is considered the most unreliable and accessible for intruders to enter the house.

Method 5. In this way, you can easily open suitcase locks with a paper clip.

The end of the paper clip must be bent into a small loop, as much as possible repeating the outline of the key from the suitcase.
Then the end of the paper clip must be inserted into the hole and turning it, feel the clamp of the mechanism.
After releasing the spring, the lock will open.

We told you how to make a master key from a paper clip and open simple locks with it. We hope that you are using our advice in good faith. It is also important to know that most locks cannot guarantee the complete safety of your home and the safety of your property. They are just a kind of deterrent that requires additional measures to protect housing.