Repair acrylic bath do it yourself allows you to return this design for acceptance water treatments former brilliance and integrity.

Acrylic bathing structures, which are installed in many people's homes today, are highly practical, easy to use and excellent hygiene. But over time, or if the standards for their use are violated, various defects may appear on the surface of such baths. In such situations, it is not at all necessary to acquire a new design. You are quite capable of doing DIY acrylic bath repairs.

Acrylic bathing structure

Damage to the products we describe is usually divided into the following types:

• Not through holes and deep cracks. Most often, such flaws occur when using aggressive detergents, smoking in the bathtub and careless handling of it.
• Surface cracks. They are most often formed when you clean your bathtub with highly abrasive products. Surface defects also appear when long-term operation constructions.
• Chips. The most dangerous damage that occurs when heavy objects fall into the acrylic structure. These defects are the most difficult to eliminate; their restoration is carried out in several stages.

All specified damage is repaired by hand. It is only important to choose the right technology for the restoration work and buy the appropriate materials for them.

Acrylic structures are made using different techniques. Finished goods differ in the thickness of the acrylic layer. The most expensive are the baths, which are made using vacuum forming technology. The thickness of the acrylic layer of such structures exceeds 4 mm. Manufacturers take a sheet of material, heat it up strongly for special equipment, and then molded according to a certain pattern in a vacuum atmosphere.

Vacuum-formed acrylic bathtub

Products on which acrylic is applied by casting or spraying onto a fiberglass base are cheaper. The acrylic layer of such structures never exceeds 2 mm. Determining which bath is in front of you is quite simple. Take a look at the cut edge of the product, you can see the thickness of the acrylic layer.

You need to inspect the bath not for the sake of empty interest, but in order to understand what kind of repair kit you need to purchase to restore it. Low cost construction kits usually consist of epoxy resin mixed with a small amount of special additives. But the restoration of baths with a thick coating should be done with a repair kit made of a special type of hardener and liquid acrylic.

As you understand, first of all, you need to choose the right special kit for bath repair. The success of recovery activities depends on this. In addition, the restoration of bathtubs is always carried out taking into account the following basic requirements:

• Do not apply an acrylic layer over cracks in structures. There will be no sense in such repairs.
• The bath must be degreased before starting its restoration. For these purposes, solvents are used that are developed specifically for acrylic coatings. It is forbidden to use cleaning compounds created for plumbing with other types of protective layers.
• acrylic is made in rubber gloves. It is also necessary to work in a respirator equipped with charcoal filter... If possible, turn on the hood in the room where the structure is located, ventilate it. Remember that acrylic emits harmful volatile compounds when heated and treated with liquid repair compounds.
• The restoration is not carried out with building acrylic, which is sold in specialized stores. You can only repair the bathtub with special sanitary material.

Construction acrylic for restoration

And one more subtlety. In order for the restoration work to provide the expected result, it is necessary to use materials for the repair with compression and expansion rates, which are similar to the characteristics of the acrylic sheet of the bath. These values ​​can be found in the design data sheet and in the instructions attached to the repair kits.

We add that the restoration of baths with acrylic coated produced using a range of fixtures and tools. You need to stock up (on it you will mount grinding wheel for surface treatment of the structure), sandpaper of different numbers and a special paste for grinding.

Small defects on the surface of the bathtub are corrected with acrylic bath polish and sandpaper. You need to carefully clean up minor damage sandpaper with a grit index of 80. Then the final cleaning is carried out (sandpaper with the marking 2000 is used).

Acrylic bath polish

In cases where the burn-through of the bath is deep enough, simple grinding of its surface will not give results. You must first fill the hole with acrylic in liquid state and only after that apply sandpaper.

After sanding the surface, it is treated with polish. Note that the described restoration technology does not change the color of the bath. This is because acrylic is a homogeneous material. The main thing is not to overdo it with grinding. It must be done very carefully, without pressing the sandpaper to the surface to be treated.

It is recommended that such types of damage be repaired as soon as they are found. If the cracks become more extensive and deeper, it will be very difficult to cope with them. Sometimes it's almost impossible. The restoration of a cracked bathtub is carried out using a repair tape or a repair kit (do not forget that it must be selected taking into account the thickness of the acrylic layer). Restoring the integrity of the structure through the use of special kits is as follows:

1. Sandpaper marked 400, clean the area of ​​the bath near the crack.
2. Drill 1 mm holes with an electric drill on each side of the damage (in this case, the crack will not expand).
3. You clean the surface from crumbs and small debris, wash it with soapy water, wait for the bath to dry.
4. Mix the components included in the repair kit.
5. Apply the prepared mixture to the hole and crack with an applicator (the manufacturers of the composition include it in the restoration kit).
6. Wait 10-12 hours.
7. Grind the repaired area of ​​the bath until an absolutely smooth surface is obtained.

Repair kit for acrylic structure

When using a repair tape, the operation algorithm is slightly different:

1. Make holes, clean the surface.
2. Cut off a piece of tape (it must cover the crack by 10 mm in each direction).
3. Stick the tape to the surface with the sticky side. Air bubbles may form under the tape and must be removed immediately.

After that, wait 3-5 hours for the restored area to dry. Never put water in the bathtub while it is drying!

You can also get rid of serious damage to the bath on your own. Adhere to the following work flow chart:

1. Take a repair kit with a coarse putty. Treat a deep chip or hole with it.
2. Wait for the putty to dry completely.
3. Sand the surface with sandpaper.
4. Take the finely dispersed composition included in the repair kit and cover up the defective area.
5. Sand the dried surface with a fine sandpaper.
6. You are polishing the repaired part of the bath.

Covering the defective area with a finely dispersed composition

As you can see, you can repair almost any damage to acrylic structures yourself. Just follow the instructions above.

Affordable prices, good consumer properties, light weight and ease of installation explain the growing popularity of acrylic bathtubs in recent years.

Plastic products can be used actively and for a long time, subject to the precautions that you need to familiarize yourself with before purchasing.

If the trouble does happen, you should be aware of the possibility of restoring an acrylic bathtub, which is actually feasible at home.

Rules for the operation of an acrylic bathtub

There are several types of models made of polyacrylic materials, which differ in the characteristics of the top layer, its mechanical and chemical resistance.

A coating with a thickness of more than 5 mm is intended for use for a quarter of a century. Bathtubs with a thinner inner layer can last from 10 to 15 years without repair if handled with care.

The main thing is not to damage the polymers by mechanical action, processing with chemically active reagents. Hygienic care can be carried out with mild detergents without using strong oxidants.

Wipe the surface gently with brushes or sponges that do not have hard lint. Do not place heavy objects near the bathroom, do not place metal containers in it.

Compliance simple rules increases the chances of long-term safe use of the bath without repair. However, troubles do happen, as a result of which damage of varying degrees may appear:

• rough areas and small scratches;
• chips and slight scratches;
• cracks;
• through holes;
• stratification of plastic.

At home, you can repair acrylic bathtubs using the recommendations experienced craftsmen, a set of unpretentious devices and tools.

Elimination of minor scratches

With prolonged use, the washing surface sometimes loses its original shine, which is due to the appearance of multiple small scratches. In this case, the restoration of acrylic bathtubs is done by hand in a certain sequence using polishing agents.

First, the area with small scratches should be rubbed with an emery cloth with the finest grains. The procedure must be done carefully, not too zealous, so as not to aggravate the damage to the surface.

After leveling the scratches, apply a polish containing fine grains of abrasive action to the prepared area.

Rubbing the product with felt will allow you to get an absolutely smooth surface, which you need to bring to full shine with a wax composition of a polishing nature. Both types of polishes are often on sale in one set, which allows you to qualitatively repair a scratched acrylic bathtub.

After applying the wax, the surface is rubbed with a soft cloth, which is included in the kit with the treatment products. At the end of the repair, the bath is washed, rinsed and allowed to dry.

You can independently restore the shine of a surface that does not have noticeable scratches only with wax polish, without using products with small abrasive particles.

Repair with liquid acrylic

Chips and large scratches are somewhat more difficult to repair; this will require liquid acrylic preparations. It makes sense to buy a repair kit right away, which includes:

• composition for layer restoration;
• an applicator that allows you to apply the product gently;
• polishes for glossing the surface;
• pieces of emery cloth with the required grain size;
• napkins.

Before covering up a large scratch, it needs to be widened a little so that the paste to restore the polymer fits into the cavity. You will have to work with the assembly knife carefully, since the bath can burst from the effort. After that, wipe the gap with an emery piece, clean, degrease and apply a mass of liquid acrylic into the recess with an applicator.

Note! The repair tool should completely occupy the cavity, the procedure for the execution technique resembles filling the walls.

When the mass hardens, the polymerization process is completed, the area must be rubbed on top with a polish until shine appears. It is possible that the shade of the restored fragment of the bathroom will be slightly different; this can be noticed only upon close examination and good lighting aimed precisely at the site of the former defect.

Elimination of cracks and holes

Damage that leaks through is more difficult to repair, but you can also do it yourself. Such cracks should be glued in the same way as deep scratches. The difference is that not far from the damage on both sides, it is advisable to drill small holes, into which then also place liquid acrylic. Such holes will prevent further expansion of the gap and further strengthen the repair area. As a result, a tightening fastener is formed, the presence of which will increase the strength of the seam.

Then a patch of fiberglass is applied to the area to be repaired, which is larger than the size of the hole. The linen is sold separately in building supplies stores or as a kit for repairing acrylic bathtubs. The reinforcing flap is fixed on the defect area with epoxy resin so that the hole is closed with an overlap. After gluing the fiberglass, you need to wait until the glue is completely dry, then return the bath to its original position. During this time, you need to turn on the exhaust ventilation in the bathroom.

Elimination of cracks and holes

Damage that leaks through is more difficult to repair, but you can also do it yourself.

Such cracks should be glued in the same way as deep scratches. The difference is that not far from the damage on both sides, it is advisable to drill small holes, into which then also place liquid acrylic.

Such holes will prevent further expansion of the gap and further strengthen the repair area. As a result, a tightening fastener is formed, the presence of which will increase the strength of the seam.

It is much more difficult to repair an acrylic bathtub that has a hole in it. You can make a quality restoration only by removing the structure and turning it over back side... Such a prospect will please very few people, it will urge users to take good care of plumbing. Nevertheless, anything happens.

To repair holes on the back, the area around them at a distance of at least 20 cm must be completely cleaned and degreased. Cleaning is carried out with sandpaper, the layer of oily dirt is removed with organic solvents or special detergents.

Then a patch of fiberglass is applied to the area to be repaired, which is larger than the size of the hole. The linen is sold separately in building supplies stores or as a kit for repairing acrylic bathtubs.

The reinforcing flap is fixed on the defect area with epoxy resin so that the hole is closed with an overlap. After gluing the fiberglass, you need to wait until the glue is completely dry, then return the bath to its original position. During this time, you need to turn on the exhaust ventilation in the bathroom.

The rest of the repair steps are carried out from the inside of the washing container, which must be prepared in the same way as it is done when restoring ordinary cracks. The site is sanded with fine emery paper, poured with liquid acrylic agent, wait for it to dry, polished with a wax mass until shine appears.

Fighting acrylic tub delamination

With prolonged use of an acrylic bathtub, swellings that resemble bubbles sometimes appear on the surface. The defect is caused by the separation of the polymer layer from the structural glass cloth, which performs the function of reinforcement.

Repair of exfoliated areas is carried out differently from previous types of restoration. The swelling must be carefully punctured in the center so that the tip of the syringe enters the resulting hole. A special glue is introduced under the swollen layer, capable of fixing the acrylic layer on the fiberglass, press polymer coating, wait for complete drying, setting of the composition.

At the end of the procedure, the hole is sealed with liquid acrylic and polished with a wax composition so that the area does not differ in outward appearance from the adjacent square.

An acrylic bathtub made with good polymer technology can serve for a long time, usually without requiring repair. Under extreme circumstances, defects may appear on it, which can be dealt with independently, having the information and means for restoration. This procedure can be performed without any problems by an ordinary home craftsman on his own.

How to repair a crack, a chip in acrylic bath so that after the renovation not even a trace of the restoration remains, and the bath takes on its original appearance.

If you have an acrylic bathtub European manufacturer and you have found a real liquid acrylic with the color number of your bathtub. you have all the papers left from buying it - you are very lucky. Use the instructions (translation into Russian is not a problem) and eliminate the defects that have arisen. If you do everything correctly, then after the restoration you will not even find the place where you had a problem.

But what to do if you yourself do not know what kind of bath you have, what manufacturer and when it was produced, and it’s hard for you to remember the color (shade) number of liquid acrylic without knowing?

I will share my experience in this area, because repaired, bath screens and acrylic inserts (inserts) are more than a dozen.

To eliminate chips and cracks of European bathtubs (or acrylic bathtubs made from European sheets), I used German liquid acrylic from Roehm Gmbh.

Recently I have been using BYsan3000 () liquid acrylic.

Instructions for use are also provided. In very rare cases, the color matches the color of the bath. Some are satisfied with an insignificant shade, especially if it is not in the most prominent place, and not everyone wants to pay extra for color selection.

Here's more about the use of liquid acrylic BYsan 3000. It also has disadvantages - taught by bitter experience. It does not work at temperatures below 18 ° C. they need to work when room temperature 20 ... 25 C. It was in winter, I tried to putty the crack when the cold was about zero, maybe 3 degrees. According to the instructions, I mixed the ingredients thoroughly, waited three minutes, put them in place and began to wait. I waited longer than usual ... But I never got the desired effect. The liquid evaporated or something, but the surface turned out like sticky powdered sugar, but not at all ... polymerization did not go !!! Perhaps the European behaves the same way, I do not know (I strictly followed the instructions with it). Moreover, German liquid acrylic comes in a tube, in which a capsule with a powder of 2 grams, except for using 35 euros at a time, will not work. A set of BYsn 3000 liquid acrylic is enough for me for 5 - 8 small chips or cracks. But it is very important to keep the exact proportions. If the proportions are not observed, acrylic can polymerize for a very long time or lose its reliability properties. If the proportions are correct, liquid acrylic behaves like molten plastic. In the first minute after mixing the two components, it is a liquid like water - easy to pour. But in this state, it is still too early to use it, you have to wait for it to begin to polymerize. Over time, it becomes more and more stringy and stringy, when you take it with a spatula, it stretches like hot chewing gum. In this state, I do not advise stirring it, because air bubbles can get into it, and after repair and complete polymerization, when you start sanding and leveling the surface, cavities from voids may appear.

In order to 100% match the color of the restored surface, it is best to use the material of the same surface. To do this, you need an acrylic thinner. You can purchase acrylic thinner BYsan 4000 or highly purified dichloroethane. Previously, dichloroethane was often used for bonding plexiglass (PMMA). But I do not advise you to buy dichloroethane, which is sold in radio stores, because it has a yellowish tint, and after using it, you get a yellow spot. Dichloroethane dissolves acrylates (ABS, PMMA) well and after evaporation these polymers become solid again. Be careful, dichloroethane vapors are harmful to health, try not to inhale its odors.

If your bathtub is made of acrylic sheet, then find the part of the surface that is not visible when the bathtub is installed. These are most often the outer sides of the bath, which are pushed against the wall, or are hidden from the eyes by objects in the bathroom. Take a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm and drill the acrylic chips of the surface layer of the bath, being careful not to drill to the fiberglass. Drill at low speed. Prepare a container in which you will create the dissolved acrylic. It can be a cork, a cap or something small, preferably metal or glass. The main thing is that this container is clean and free of paint (dyes). By the way, dichloroethane does not dissolve polyethylene. It is advisable not to use very flat containers, because the solvent (dichloroethane) evaporates quite well.

Prepare a paintbrush for ease of application. It is very important that the hairs of the brush do not fall out and do not remain with you during restoration on the surface.

Pour solvent into a container and slowly add acrylic shavings, stirring all this with a stick (match) or other clean object. Add shavings until you achieve a sour cream consistency.

Apply the resulting mixture to the part to be restored in thin layers and leave a period of time between each layer so that the solvent can evaporate and the surface hardens. As you can imagine, the shrinkage will be significant after the solvent has evaporated. If you apply a large layer at once, then voids (bubbles) may form inside the layer, because the solvent evaporates from the surface. Please note in advance that the acrylic sheet (of which the bathtub is made) has some light transmittance and your solution does not have the same coverage as regular paint... If you apply a very thin layer, your crack (chip) or previous putty will probably be visible after drying and polishing. Therefore, before starting the restoration, make a small indentation (0.5 ... 1 mm) in the place of your restoration surface. If you have a through crack or chip on acrylic surface, then it is better to first putty with liquid acrylic, and reinforce the reverse part with fiberglass if possible.

After you've applied the dissolved acrylic, it's best to wait a couple of days for the solvent to completely evaporate. A few hours after the restoration, the acrylic will already be hard and the bath can be used, but with polishing it is better to wait, because the hardness will only be superficial. If you applied a layer of 1 ... 3 mm, then after two days you can smooth out with polishing paper 1500 and 2500 and polish your bath.

If rubbish and dyes have not got anywhere, then the end result should be perfect, there should not be a hint of former problems.

From experience I will tell you that there are acrylic bathtubs and trays that do not lend themselves to this method of restoration. I have seen Chinese bathtubs and trays made of sheet acrylic, when, when the acrylic shavings are dissolved, it becomes a greenish tint. These sanitary ware initially come with a bluish purple tint, i.e. they seem to be white, but if you apply a very White color then you can see the difference. I don’t know what kind of components the Chinese add, but there is some kind of reaction with the solvent. In order not to drill out shavings, try applying a couple of drops of solvent to an inconspicuous part of the bath and see if the surface layer underneath turns green or not ...

I would be glad if my advice would help you in the restoration of acrylic sanitary ware. Good luck.

Acrylic bathtubs are certainly comfortable, practical and hygienic. But due to violation of the rules for their use, or simply over time, their surface loses its former shine, scratches or even chips appear on it.

If it is not planned to change the plumbing in the near future, then the question arises: how to repair an acrylic bathtub and can you do it yourself?

Many citizens are in the habit of using the bath not only for its intended purpose, but also for solving various household tasks. For example, for washing or for washing the dog after a walk. In addition, "accidents" also occur if, for example, a heavy object is accidentally dropped into the bathtub.

All this can lead to the fact that a perfectly flat and smooth surface is covered with scratches and or cracks, chips or even through holes form on it.

There are three ways to solve the problem:

• Replace the bath with a new model.
• Order repair of an acrylic bathtub to specialists.
• Carry out repairs, etc.

The first option is good if the bathtub has already served enough and it is not a pity to throw it away. And if the plumbing is new? Changing it just because of scratches is not very rational.

The second option is certainly good because it doesn't pose any problems. I called a specialized company and its employees will conduct necessary work, returning the bath to its previous appearance. But this method also has disadvantages.

If an acrylic bath is being restored, repairs are usually quite expensive. I must say that the bill for often reaches half of its value. For this reason, this seemingly reasonable enough option is not suitable for everyone.

The only solution remains is to repair the acrylic bathtub with your own hands. Let's see how this can be done.

Selection of material for bath repair

Preparation for bathroom renovation

It is extremely important to choose the right material for. During operation, the bathroom experiences significant loads, since it gets either hot or cold water, which leads to different temperature transformations.

Naturally, changes in the linear dimensions of the surface layer are not noticeable to the eye, but they cannot be ignored.

It is important that the material used for the restoration has the same characteristics as the base material of the bath. Otherwise, cracks will inevitably appear soon and repair efforts will be in vain.

In addition, the repair material must have a high degree of adhesion to the bath surface so that peeling does not occur. The choice of material is influenced by the production technology of this bath model.

There are two ways to make acrylic bathtubs:

• Vacuum forming. This is the most common way. Baths produced using this technology go on sale, covered with a protective film. In this case, you need liquid acrylic for bathroom renovation, this is a material made on the basis of polymethymethacrylate.
• Casting or spraying. These baths have a very thin surface layer of acrylic on the surface. They are sold without a protective film and are perfectly amenable to restoration. Most often, the manufacturer includes a repair kit for the repair of acrylic bathtubs made on the basis of polyester resins.

To determine the method of manufacturing a bathtub, you should look at the cut of its side. If the thickness of the surface layer does not exceed a millimeter, then the bathroom is made by spraying.

If the thickness of the top layer is 2-5 mm, and the owner remembers that he bought a bath in protective film then this is a molded bath.

Repair of minor scratches or minor burn-throughs

We repair minor scratches on the bathtub

In case of careless handling of the surface of the bathtub, minor damage may appear on it - scratches, and if one of the tenants is a fan of smoking while lying in the bathroom, then burns are possible.

If the damage is superficial, then the acrylic bathtub can be repaired quite easily.

Would need:

• Sandpaper of various grain sizes (from 80 to 2000).
• Polish for acrylic bathtubs.

Surface damage is protected with sandpaper, using a larger one in the first stages, and the smallest one (2000) at the end.

Since acrylic is a homogeneous material, this light sanding will not lead to discoloration of the surface. After finishing sanding, the surface should be treated with acrylic bath polish.

If the surface burn-through is deep, then it is impossible to get rid of it with the help of grinding. In this case, the hole will have to be filled with liquid acrylic, and after it has solidified, sandpaper and polish.

Crack repair

Repair kit for repairing cracks on an acrylic bathtub

If cracks have formed on the surface, then more complex work will be required. If acrylic bathtubs are being restored, repairs can be made using a repair kit for acrylic surfaces or repair tape.

Typically, cracks on the surface of the bath are caused by dropping a heavy object or by wear and tear caused by years of use.

Cracks that appear on the surface should be repaired immediately after they are noticed, since it is much more difficult to restore a bath with deep and extensive damage.

Consider how to repair cracks in acrylic bathtubs using epoxy putty.

The procedure is as follows:

• Use 400 grit sandpaper to clean the surface around the crack. On each side of the damage, approximately one centimeter of the surface should be treated.
  Such preparation will allow the putty to be fixed more reliably.
• Using a drill, drill 1 mm holes on each side of the crack. This operation is necessary to prevent further crack propagation.
• Remove dust and crumbs, wash the surface with water using soap solution... Let the surface dry well.

If there is no time to wait until the surface dries naturally, you should use a construction hairdryer.

• When an acrylic bath is being restored, the damage is repaired with two-component compounds. Therefore, before use, you need to mix the main component with a hardener.

It is necessary to work with repair compounds with properly functioning ventilation. A respirator can be used to protect the respiratory system.

Fill up the cracks in the bathrooms with putty

• Fill the gap and drill holes with a ready-made filler. To apply the composition, use the applicator that is included in the set for repairing acrylic bathtubs.
• The applied composition is left for 12 hours to dry well. Now you need to sand the repaired area until you get a smooth surface.

Repair tape can also be used to repair cracks. In this case, if acrylic bathtubs are being restored, the repair at the first stage follows a similar algorithm.

That is, the surface should be cleaned, holes drilled at the ends of the cracks, washed and dried.

Further actions:

• A part of the repair tape is cut off so that its length overlaps the crack by 1 cm in each direction.
• The protective film is removed from the tape to expose the sticky side.
• Stick the tape to the crack, carefully removing air bubbles from under the tape.
• The repaired area of ​​the bath should be left to dry for three hours. During this period, do not allow water to enter the bath.

Repair of chips and holes

Repairing chips on the bath

If a chip has formed on the surface of the bath or even a hole has appeared, then in this case it is possible to fix the plumbing in order.

If the defect is deep, then the repair of chipped acrylic bathtubs takes place in two stages.

• First, a coarse putty is used, which forms a uniform layer that is not subject to shedding.
• The dried layer of putty is sanded with sandpaper.
• Further, it is required to carry out finishing using finely dispersed repair compounds.
• After letting the putty dry well, the surface is again sanded with fine sandpaper.
• After the repair of the bath with acrylic is completed, its surface is polished.

Thus, almost any damage to the bathtub can be repaired. Of course, the question of how to repair an acrylic bathtub is not an easy one. Especially when it comes to serious damage. If small scratches on the surface can be easily eliminated by ourselves, then it is better to entrust the repair of deep defects and holes to specialists, since it is extremely difficult to do this work accurately, without having the appropriate experience.

One of the most common problems with acrylic or plastic baths these are cracks that form on the surface. bathtub repair Cracks can be the result of years of wear and tear or the fall of a heavy object. Or the bathtub may be made of low-quality plastic.

How to repair a crack in an acrylic bathtub? Be aware that while not very large, the bathtub can be easily rebuilt. Repairing cracked acrylic bathtubs ultimately saves a lot of time and money. or acrylic liner you will need: a set (composition) for the repair of acrylic bathtubs or repair tape, sandpaper No. 400,.
Using epoxy putty to repair cracks.
1. Sand the crack adjacent to the crack with 400 grit sandpaper about a centimeter around each side of the crack. This will help to putty the epoxy adhesive more securely. Drill 1 mm holes at each end of the crack to prevent further crack propagation.
2. Wash the cracked areas with soap and warm water... Allow to dry. If you are in a hurry, you can use construction hair dryer for repairing cracked acrylic bathtubs.
3. Stir in a two-component epoxy filler. Apply each subsequent layer of epoxy glue in different directions.

4. Fill cracks and holes with epoxy putty using the applicator provided in the kit. After the epoxy is completely dry (approx. 12 hours), sand the work areas. Make sure cracks and holes in the acrylic bathtub are sanded to a smooth surface.
Using a repair tape.
Sand cracks and scratches with sandpaper. Drill holes at the ends of the cracks with a drill. Wash and dry the repair areas. Cut off the rounded section of the repair tape that will cover one centimeter of each crack. Delete protective film and the adhesive side carefully cover the cracks with tape and be sure to remove any air bubbles. Do not let the repaired area on the acrylic bathtub come into contact with water for three hours.
Tips and warnings for repairing cracked acrylic bathtubs.

Epoxy works best when used on cracks less than 1mm in length. Use repair tape for cracks 1 mm or more.

Epoxy adhesive is dangerous. Work in a well ventilated area before using it. Avoid contact of the putty with your skin.

How to close up an acrylic bathtub

One of important premises in the apartment is. Every day begins and ends with her visit. The bath room is designed for hygiene procedures. The main element of the room can be a bath or shower. The former can be steel, cast iron and acrylic. Unfortunately, baths are subject to aging and mechanical stress. There is little choice: buy a new one or renovate an old one.

You will need

Drill;
- sandpaper No. 400;
- a set for the repair of acrylic bathtubs.

Instructions

1 Plumbing is presented by manufacturers in a large assortment, with the development of scientific and technological progress, it is transformed into new forms, different options to solve styles. First appeared cast iron baths, and then more lightweight steel and aluminum. The advent of polymers sparked a revolution in consumer goods manufacturing. Plumbing did not stand aside either. Taking any form, acrylic is rightfully considered ideal material... But it also has its own terms of operation. The most common wear and tear on an acrylic bathtub is cracks and chips. Cracks appear from long-term wear and tear or from various objects falling onto the bathtub. Development modern technologies allows you to heal even the most difficult injuries. To repair an acrylic bathtub, prepare a drill, sandpaper, and an acrylic bathtub repair kit in advance. You can buy it at a hardware specialty store.
2 Sand the surface of the tub around the crack by one centimeter. Choose a 400 grit sandpaper. Take a drill and drill holes at the ends of the cracks. This will prevent cracks from spreading further along the surface of the acrylic bathtub. Wash the area to be repaired with warm soapy water and let it dry. If you don't have time, use a simple household hair dryer to dry your hair. Apply putty to the affected area and scrub. Acrylic has a homogeneous composition, so the color will not change. Use the airbrush to pick up the paint and paint the bathtub. Wait two days for the paint to crystallize. At the end of this period, polish with a special polish.

3 If a more serious defect appears, often this is a burn-through, then a more substantial repair is required. In this case, after processing, fill the damaged area of ​​the acrylic bath with liquid acrylic and polish again.

4 In case of chips and holes, fill holes and defects with a coarse-dispersion filler. Sand with sandpaper. Then, apply an even, uniform layer of finely dispersed filler and sand with sandpaper. Pick a color and paint after two days. In any case, the bath will have its original appearance.

Self-repair of acrylic bathtubs

Here a lot depends on what kind of crack it is: through, or affecting only the decorative layer, whether the reinforcement has survived (and what kind of reinforcement it was - fiberglass, or metal mesh), what size crack is on the bend, or in a straight section, how much its presence affects the strength of the "trough" of the bathroom ... Agree, one thing is a small crack at the edge of the rim, another is a bathtub split in half.

I will say right away: with the increase in the complexity of the crack, your chances of repairing it yourself drop dramatically. Since such a repair is a delicate matter that requires skill. If the bathtub leaks during operation ... the neighbors may be unhappy.

In fact, the problem resembles repair car tire- one thing is a puncture with a nail, through the tread, and quite another - a side cut through the cord on a half-wheel. And, in part, it resembles the work of a dentist - installing a seal, selecting a color ... And, mind you ... both dentists and tire changers earn very good money. Perhaps this is no accident.

However, it is not the gods who burn the pots ...

I had a similar problem in the 90s. While installing the suspended one in the bathroom, a worker dropped the tool ... onto a freshly installed acrylic bathtub with hydromassage, which was then considered almost the eighth wonder of the World and costing several thousand dollars (in prices of the 90s). Nightmare! However, I managed to cope - why are you worse?
1. In any case, the crack must first be sewn up - to expand its edges facing the inside of the bath - so that the seal has a place to hold. To do this, it is best to arm yourself with a drill with a flexible cable.

With the help of a roller cutter, we select a groove along our crack, about 1/3 of the depth of the bathtub, but so as not to damage the reinforcement if it is intact.

After that, we carefully clean our groove with fine sandpaper.

Then we take the same "liquid acrylic", which you have probably already been told about. As far as I know, it is produced by RIHO - famous manufacturer acrylic baths. Where to buy it - ask Yandex.

We apply liquid acrylic on our crack, carefully, in 2-3 layers, so that the filling protrudes just a little over the edges of the crack.
Let this case dry up.

After that, we put a polishing attachment on the drill and carefully, at medium speed, polish the seal. I once used the usual GOI polishing paste with quite satisfactory results. But now a lot of all kinds of polishing pastes have appeared - make your choice.

One problem is that it is unlikely that you will be 100% in color and the crack will be completely invisible. Acrylics are slightly different for all manufacturers, differing in tone. Achieving 100% color matching requires skill good specialist and Additional materials which are not easy to buy. But maybe just get lucky.

2. If the crack is serious, then it will also be necessary to restore the reinforcement, to strengthen this place.
It is best to use a thin metal mesh for this (sold at construction markets), a piece of fiberglass (ibid.) and some high-quality acrylic adhesive: Cosmofen PMMA or Permabond (see Yandex).

Then, from the "rough" side of the trough, you will need to stick a piece on the crack area metal mesh, and on top (with overlap), a piece of fiberglass ... You can even in several layers.

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