If you want to give your model an aging effect in the form of rust and you do not know where to start, then this article is for you. There are many ways, this is one of them.

To obtain the effect of rusting metal, there is special tool entitled - RustAll... This is a set of three special fluids and a dust simulator.

Kit Contents

• the same liquid Rustall
• black liquid - for a wash-off effect
• Matt lacquer
• imitation dust

How to use

1. On the bare part of the model (it is possible without a primer) the first layer of the same liquid - Rustall is applied. Next, we wait for the liquid to dry completely. After that, apply another layer. If you are satisfied with the rust color, then go to the next step, if not, then repeat again the right amount once.

2. The next step is to apply the wash to the model. We also apply with a brush several times, after drying, we wipe off the excess with a cotton swab. Keep in mind that the remover can come off along with the previous layer, you need to be careful here.

3. After all this, cover the entire surface with matte varnish, which is included in the kit.

4. And at the end of everything, you need to apply with a brush the contents of the fourth jar (dust) on the prepared surface. Wait until it is completely dry and remove any residue. Some modelers add Tamiya's Metallic Gray to this step.

In custody

What can I say, this technique of simulating the aging of the model is really quite working. It will be especially interesting for fans of dioramas and BTT. The only drawback is the price and complexity of the purchase, as a rule, this set can only be found in foreign online stores.

>> >> Rust Effect with RustAll

The inspiration for this project was a photograph of an M41 tank that was buried at the Cu Chi Tunnel Complex Museum in southern Vietnam.

When painting the model, you will notice that the tint steps contain layers of matte varnish. This will protect each successive layer of acrylic paint from the weathered process and will also create a good contrast between the matt rust and corrosion color and the glossy finish of the original olive green paint.
The first step in painting the model was to apply a coat of Vallejo primer. Airbrush Badger Patriot Arrow was chosen for work (you can use any one).
In the next step, we will airbrush a pure steel color for the bottom base coat... Steel color will show through base paint and corrosion. Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black and XF-27 Black Green were chosen for the primary colors. We cover this layer with a layer of transparent matte varnish, followed by the application of hairspray using the “Hairspray technique” (hairspray can be etched into a small jar and then applied from an airbrush). After the hairspray is completely dry, airbrush with Tamiya paints a mosaic of various rust tones. All paints are hand-picked, ranging from X-6 Orange and XF-4 Yellow Green to XF-9 Hull Red and XF-64 Red Brown. The colors are applied in random order to add variety and unbalanced appearance.
After everything is dry, we begin to remove with a hard brush and warm water some layers of rust. It is important to treat one area at a time and apply spots in a random and unbalanced manner. Repeat this step to create more depth and add more rust tones.

Next, we cover a layer of rust and corrosion with a matte varnish.
Now it's time to airbrush the base color - Olive Drab Green. Next, we will create the effect of the main base color burnt out in the sun.
To do this, we use the main color modulation effect and give more life models. ( Color modulation/ Color modulation /- these are transitions of color tones in order to add shades and highlight individual important areas of the model. The main task of color modulation is to give the model a spectacularity and volume by applying different colors... This is achieved through the intensive use of light and shade, distributing shades over surfaces depending on how real light falls on them, and emphasizing details. Approx. translator). Mix Tamiya XF-58 Olive Green, XF-27 Black Green and X-2 White in different proportions and select the most brightly lit areas (the lower parts of the model are darker, the upper ones are lighter). Add X-22 varnish to the paint mixture. The mixture is applied to a glossy surface, which will create a good contrast to the matte corrosion underneath.

Into the main modulated olive green color(Olive Drab Green) Apply chips and paint peeling in exactly the same way as the previous layers of rust.
To obtain all the effects of aging, wear and tear, remove the main olive green color with warm water, a hard brush and a toothpick.
Treat one area at a time! It is important to avoid any kind of symmetry in the chips on different areas of the tank model. At this stage, many structures and effects begin to appear, creating an interesting and realistic look for the model.

At the next stage, we prepare a wash made on the basis of “dirt smudges” ( Streaking grime) and thinned with paint thinner. Apply this wash to all recessed areas and trim lines.
Next, we show the dirt and mud smudges, which we apply with the help of “mud smudges” and “winter smudges of mud” from AK Interactive (various smudges from AK Interactive are ready-made diluted mixtures. Approx. translator). Using a brush and clean solvent, paint the stripes from top to bottom. We pass from one side to the other. Doing one pass at a time! Clean up the brush before the next pass. This technique can be repeated until many light and rich bands are obtained.
Apply a thin layer of dust to horizontal surfaces using the “dust effect”, and also apply traces of rain smudges. Rain smudges are applied to vertical surfaces from the top towards the bottom of the tank. (Apply a rain drip as follows. First, a full-fledged vertical strip is drawn with saturated paint, and then shaded with a brush soaked in solvent until the desired state. This operation can be repeated. Approx. translator).
This step shows the strong effect of the weather on the tank, and also creates a “filter” for the base colors, subtly changing the tones of the main olive green color (about filters and washes was described in the article).

An important step in this project was to go back to the base areas of the rust and enhance them with enamel and pigments. Rust spots and streaks in vertical areas were created using rust streaks from AK-Interactive. The stripes are applied with a thin brush, left on for a few minutes, and then stretched downward with a pointed brush. It is important that the brush is wet on the napkin and remains damp and not soaked in solvent. Use the edge of the brush to refine the stripes.

Consolidated areas of rust on horizontal surfaces were created using rust and brown pigments. These effects are used to give the rust tones more realism and add more variety and texture to the previous rust tones created earlier with the “hairspray technique”.
The photo shows the barrel of the gun, on which pigments are applied, which are fixed with drops of solvent mixed with matte varnish.

On final stage toning and vesing the model, let's give it a little more variety with light and dark rust spots. Apply tiny dots of paint using a thin brush and the same Tamiya rust colors used in the previous steps.
Since previous paint applications have changed the weathering process, we can use these colors again to add even more life-like realism to corroded areas.

The final image shows a fully finished model of the M41 tank on the stand. Next to the model is a photograph of a real M41 tank stationed in the Cu Chi Tunnel complex today.

Iain Hamilton (http://ak-interactive.blogspot.com)
Translation and notes: Ariors

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V recent years the rusty color is gaining more and more popularity. You can achieve this color in one of two ways: to imitate rusting or to rust the metal naturally. How to make rust in various ways will be discussed below.

Natural rust

This article does not take into account the natural rusting of the metal, which gradually occurs with it under the influence of the environment... You can accelerate the appearance of natural rust by chemical reaction which will corrode the metal.

First of all, you need to make sure that the metal to be rusted is corroded. Iron-containing metals are susceptible to rusting. However, many materials are resistant to rust, such as stainless steel or chrome alloys. Wrought iron and cast iron lend themselves well to corrosion.

Copper acid solution

Instructions:

Vinegar and bleach solution

This technique is best suited for iron or tin based metals. Prerequisite: the surface must not be primed or covered with sealant.

Instructions:

1. Mix part of the vinegar with two parts of bleach in the container.
2. We place the metal in the container so that it is completely immersed. We are waiting for about half an hour. After this period, rust will appear on the surface.
3. We wipe the material with a rag.
4. Until the item is completely dry, direct contact with it should be avoided to avoid damaging the skin with chlorine.
5. We fix the rust with a primer. The easiest way is to apply a primer in an aerosol can.

other methods

The above are the most common methods for accelerating corrosive processes. However, there are other ways as well.

Rusting with hydrogen peroxide and salt:

1. Pour the peroxide into the container. It is advisable to use a spray bottle, as this is the easiest way to apply liquid to the material.
2. We spray metal well.
3. Sprinkle salt on the wet surface. The metal will start to rust almost immediately. The intensity of rusting depends on the amount of salt.
4. Let the metal dry in the fresh air. The surface must not be wiped off before it dries, otherwise the rusting will be very uneven. You can wipe the surface only after it is completely dry.

Rusting with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar:

1. We clean the surface (if necessary).
2. Spray peroxide over the surface from a spray bottle.
3. Spray vinegar on metal.
4. We are waiting for several hours until rust appears.

Rusting with lemon juice and salt:

1. Mix 4 parts lemon juice with 1 part table salt.
2. We process the cleaned surface with a solution. Traces of rust will appear soon.

It is not necessary to spoil the material in order to obtain the rust effect. It is possible to simulate rusting. Moreover, you can give a rusty look to both metal and other materials, in particular wood.

Rust paint

A rusty hue is formed by mixing red, yellow and brown pigments. You can also add a little blue to give the coating some brightness and depth.

There is a natural pigment that makes it possible to get a rusty shade without any. This pigment is called ocher (another name is iron red lead), which is a mixture of clay and iron oxide hydrate.

Natural conservation is not independent species paints. This is just a component that is added in one amount or another to paints and varnishes(paints, enamels) and primers. In addition to this component, other substances are also present in paints.

The pigment has the following characteristics:

• hiding power - from 60 to 80 grams per square meter;
• oil absorption - from 25 to 35 grams per 100 grams of substance;
• The PH of the water extract is from 7 to 8.

Ocher is characterized by resistance to aggressive chemicals(organic solvents, acids, alkalis), as well as resistance to light and humidity.

Imitation film

You can give the metal a rusty look using a special film. Below are instructions for its use:

1. Degrease the surface with alcohol.
2. Trying on the elements of the film to the surface.
3. We moisten the metal from a special spray bottle. The film will stick to a damp surface better.
4. We tear off the film from the substrate.
5. We glue the middle part of the canvas first, and then level the edges along the surface.
6. Dry the glued film with a hairdryer.

Rust effect on wooden furniture

Imitation of rust can be carried out not only on metal, but also on wood.

Necessary materials:

• paint (2 types);
• salt;
• sandpaper;

One of the paints should have a color similar to rust as much as possible. The second paint acts as the main one, it should be suitable for furniture and other accessories in the room.

Before applying the rusty paint, we clean the surface of the wood from all defects. You can also varnish wood. Next, paint the furniture with rust-like paint and wait until the surface dries slightly. Apply a layer of sodium chloride to the still wet surface.

When the surface with the salt applied to it dries, apply the base paint. We are waiting for the surface to dry. After that, remove the salt with fine-grained sandpaper. Failure to remove all the salt will result in a slight roughness effect that will accentuate the rusty color. The last step is to treat the wood with a protective layer of varnish.

The rust effect will give any product a completely unique, unrepeatable look. And you can do all this with your own hands. The main thing in the process of work is to observe technological process and adhere to protective measures, as in many cases it will be necessary to work with chemicals that are unsafe to health.

To achieve an amazing level of realism in the appearance of their prefabricated models, modelers resort to tinting, that is, different ways of painting certain areas or an entire model. For tinting, the most various paints and pigments, as well as dry pastels.

In order to understand how to tint a prefabricated model, you first need to study the features of using its prototype and find out what kind of weather troubles it was subjected to and even on what soil it moved.

What are the ways of toning the model?

There are ways of tinting great amount... We will focus on the most popular ones.

Blending(from the word blend - to mix) - a method of toning, which achieves the effect of a smooth transition from one shade to another without clear boundaries. Mixing is carried out using water or special diluents. This method is considered quite difficult, requiring some experience.

Color modulation- a method of obtaining deep and realistic shades. To achieve this effect, special paint sets are used. The model is painted with maximum attention to detail, all the nuances are thought out - how the shadow should lie, and where the glare is located, and how best to place the accents. Thus, the model really looks three-dimensional and realistic. After painting the model, the colors are fixed with glossy or matt varnishes. If necessary, tinting can be continued using other methods.

Dry brushing(dry brush) - a technique used to simulate various defects, chips and natural abrasions on a prefabricated model. Painting is carried out with an almost completely dry brush. First, you need to dip the brush into the desired paint, then carefully wipe it on a napkin, getting rid of excess paint. When painting in this way, the main thing is not to overdo it. If there is too little paint on the brush, then you can always try again, but if there is a lot of it, the model may have to be completely repainted.

Highlightning- a way of tinting, in which you visually highlight certain elements of the model, "highlighting" them with light shades of paint. It is necessary to highlight the details smoothly, without clear boundaries between different colors.

Rust all- imitation of rust on the surface of the assembled model. Created using the special Rust All liquid, which gave the name to this method. The kit includes the liquid itself - "rust", the liquid - "remover", matt varnish and a dust simulator. This method allows you to visually age the prefabricated model and, in general, is quite an interesting technique that makes the models realistic. The difficulty is only in getting the kit itself for creating rust - as a rule, it is sold in a sufficiently limited number of stores.

Frosting Is a technique used to blur the boundaries between different shades, shadows and highlights. With its help, the contrast between different colors is smoothed out, and the colors are muted. To do this, thin the paint very big amount water (approximately in a ratio of 1 to 6) and apply it in a thin layer on the base color layer. The resulting translucent shade will soften the transitions between colors.

Washing(waxing) is somewhat similar to glazing, some even confuse the two techniques. Washing - covering the base color with other, transparent shades in such a way that the base color only slightly shines through the subsequent ones. With the help of waxing, you can change the color or create the effect of shadows and reflections.

The term “washing” also means paint removal, which gives the impression of realism and volume of the assembled model. With the help of waxing, you can visually highlight any detail, element and seam. Exists different ways waxing. General, spot and soft waxing are the most popular among modelers, they are almost indispensable for toning scale models. Also, waxing is used to create a camouflage effect.

Masking with salt- a method that allows you to simulate peeled paint on a model using ordinary salt, which replaces more expensive products. Salt solution is applied to the painted model in the necessary places. After it dries, paint is applied to its surface, after which it is necessary to remove the salt from the model with a soft cloth or napkin. On the treated area, you get the effect of peeled paint.

Preshading- tinting technique, which consists in applying dark paint lines to the assembled model even before the main coloring. Lines of brown and black tones are applied where the shadow is supposed to be. After painting with the base color, these lines will show through slightly. To create this effect, it is best to use acrylic paints, since enamel are distinguished by a denser structure.

Post shading differs from pre-shading in the sequence of actions. In post shading, as the name suggests, dark lines are applied to the model after it has been completely colored. The shadow effect is created using a special gray varnish in a low concentration, which results in a translucent effect. Post shading is different enough high level difficulties. The mistakes made with it are much more difficult to fix than with pre-shading. However, the result is definitely worth the effort - the post-shaded models look very realistic and professional.

Simulated rain tracks allows you to create the effect of a surface affected by atmospheric precipitation. A thin layer of special paint is applied to the painted model using an airbrush. Then you need to take a soft round brush and apply a very thinned paint on the model surface with vertical lines. Once dry, this step needs to be repeated, adding new lines on top of some of the old ones. Thus, on the surface of the model there will be a series of lines of different thickness and transparency. If you are satisfied with the result, then you just need to cover it with special paint sprayed from an airbrush. This technique takes experience, and it's okay if you don't get the effect you want on the first try.

There are many ways of tinting. Professional modelers try to combine several of them when working on large-scale models and achieve an amazing level of realism, depth and volume in appearance models. Their prefabricated tanks seemed to have really been in battles, managed to become covered not only with dust and dirt, but also with dents and scratches.

It takes practice to master a technique, and the more often you try to create the effect you want, the better you will get it. And then your models will also look like real miniature copies of their prototypes.

More recently, they tried to get rid of corrosion, but now it has become mainstream. How did the rusty style of cars appear and why did it become so interesting to motorists?

In the field of car tuning, a special paint made to look like rust is gaining popularity. A corrosive color can be achieved by two methods: imitation and rusting of iron, which is not very well reflected on the state of transport and its reliability. There are a variety of paints, special imitation films, DIY methods of applying a rusty pattern, and much more to make the original tuning and decor of the car.

Correctly, this tuning style is called Rat Look, which means "rat". This style of design originated in the near 1980s in California, but received massive publicity only in the last five years.

The surface of the car is specially "masked" and made rusty, faded and "tired", imitating old car from the landfill. But under the hood there is usually a powerful engine that will surprise other participants. road traffic inconsistency in appearance.

The concept of the Rat Look is deceitful and also a bit of a protest against glamor and chic. The motorist deliberately makes through holes in the car, strips the body to metal, glues a special film, etc., which is best for this style.

This direction of tuning is just for you if you want to stand out from the monotonous stream of cars, or surprise other motorists on the road.

Rust effect paint

Sometimes the painting of the car is replaced with natural rust or pasted over with a film. Having got acquainted with the history of the Rat Look movement, the question is brewing, how is the rusty paint, which is used to paint metals, is made? The main component that gives liquid paint rust effect is pigment. The peculiarity of the pigment is that it is more oil-absorbing and denser in color compared to paint. Often mixed red, brown and yellow colors and sometimes blues are added for the depth of the shade.

Ocher is a natural pigment that is added to paint to achieve the desired shade. The natural resource is a mixture of iron oxide hydrate with clay. Ocher Features:

• Resistant to aggressive chemical fluids and reagents;
• Resistant to organic solvents, acids and alkalis;
• Less exposed to environmental factors, including water;
• Ocher coated areas will fade much more slowly than paint.

The process of metal preparation and application of paint with the effect of corrosion is similar to conventional painting works... It is worth remembering that people resort to chipping in order to get a rusty effect and not to spoil the car body. Painting should also be taken responsibly in order to achieve a beautiful result as a result.

Imitation rust

Today there are several ways to artificially make corrosion on the body and one of them is to imitate rust with acrylic paints. To do this, you need an acrylic-based paint Viva Decor or another similar, as well as a primer. Take a little primer and mix with the paint. Apply the resulting mixture in a chaotic pattern to the surface.

With the help of various improvised means, the paint is smeared, scratched with coarse sandpaper and rubbed to obtain a color that imitates rust with the appropriate texture. There's a lot different techniques and methods for of this type coloring, which differ not only in the way of execution, but also in materials.

In addition to paints and pigments, there are several ways to naturally accelerate the formation of corrosion spots. Let's take a look at a few of them.

Acid and copper solution:

1. Pour about 60 milliliters of hydrochloric acid into a container and put some copper product there;
2. We cover (do not close) the container with a lid, leaving holes for the exhaust of gases that are formed during the chemical reaction of acid on copper;
3. We leave the container to infuse for about 6-7 days;
4. After about a week, you will have a concentrated solution of copper and acid, which accelerates the metal corrosion process. We take out a copper object from the container, and add the solution to water in a ratio of about 50: 1. All described work is carried out, usually in protective gloves to comply with safety regulations;
5. We thoroughly wash the future coverage area of ​​the car soapy water and we clean the required part of the body from traces of paint;
6. With a brush or spray, apply the composition to the surface of the product and leave this thing to dry completely.

Tentatively, a noticeable patina of rust will appear within an hour and a half. If this is not enough for you, then you can repeat the procedure.

There is a way to speed up the rusting process using hydrogen peroxide.

1. Peroxide concentrate is taken and applied to the metal surface;
2. While the body has not yet dried from the solution, take table salt and sprinkle the sprayed part of the body. The future rusty effect also depends on the amount of salt. It is advisable to cover the entire area with a medium uniform layer of table salt;
3. We roll the car on Fresh air and leave until completely dry. It is important not to touch the surface of the car with your hands until it is completely dry, in order to avoid uneven rusting of the metal.

There are many more folk ways but the two above are the most popular.

Film

If you want to try out the Rat Look style on your car, but do not want to spoil the body with natural rust, then there is a film with a corrosion effect especially for you. It is important to understand that the development of the sticker should be carried out individually for your car in order to repeat all the grooves and bends of the body.