More recently, they tried to get rid of corrosion, but now it has become mainstream. How did the rusty style of cars appear and why did it become so interesting to motorists?

In the field of car tuning, a special paint made to look like rust is gaining popularity. A corrosive color can be achieved by two methods: imitation and rusting of iron, which is not very well reflected on the state of transport and its reliability. There are a variety of paints, special imitation films, DIY methods of applying a rusty pattern, and much more to make the original tuning and decor of the car.

Correctly, this tuning style is called Rat Look, which means "rat". This style of design originated in the near 1980s in California, but received massive publicity only in the last five years.

The surface of the car is specially "masked" and made rusty, faded and "tired", imitating old car from the landfill. But there is usually a powerful engine under the hood that will surprise other participants. road traffic inconsistency in appearance.

The concept of the Rat Look is deceitful and also a bit of a protest against glamor and chic. The motorist deliberately makes through holes in the car, strips the body to metal, glues a special film, etc., which is best suited for this style.

This direction of tuning is just for you if you want to stand out from the monotonous stream of cars, or surprise other motorists on the road.

Rust effect paint

Sometimes the painting of the car is replaced with natural rust or pasted over with a film. Having got acquainted with the history of the Rat Look movement, the question is brewing, how is the rusty paint, which is used to paint metals, is made? The main component that gives liquid paint rust effect is pigment. The peculiarity of the pigment is that it is more oil-absorbing and denser in color compared to paint. Often mixed red, brown and yellow colors and sometimes blues are added for the depth of the shade.

Ocher is a natural pigment that is added to paint to achieve the desired shade. The natural resource is a mixture of iron oxide hydrate with clay. Ocher Features:

• Resistant to aggressive chemical fluids and reagents;
• Resistant to organic solvents, acids and alkalis;
• Less susceptible to factors the environment, including water;
• Ocher coated areas will fade much more slowly than paint.

The process of metal preparation and application of paint with the effect of corrosion is similar to conventional painting works... It is worth remembering that people resort to chipping in order to get a rusty effect and not to spoil the car body. Painting should also be taken responsibly in order to achieve a beautiful result as a result.

Imitation rust

Today there are several ways to artificially make corrosion on the body and one of them is to imitate rust with acrylic paints. To do this, you need acrylic-based paint Viva Decor or another similar, as well as a primer. Take a little primer and mix with the paint. Apply the resulting mixture in a chaotic pattern to the surface.

With the help of various improvised means, the paint is smeared, scratched with coarse sandpaper and rubbed to obtain a color that imitates rust with the appropriate texture. There are many different techniques and methods for of this type coloring, which differ not only in the way of execution, but also in materials.

In addition to paints and pigments, there are several ways to naturally accelerate the formation of corrosion spots. Let's consider a few of them.

Acid and copper solution:

1. Pour about 60 milliliters of hydrochloric acid into a container and put some copper product there;
2. We cover (do not close) the container with a lid, leaving holes for the exhaust of gases that are formed during chemical reaction acids for copper;
3. We leave the container to infuse for about 6-7 days;
4. After about a week, you will have a concentrated solution of copper and acid, which accelerates the metal corrosion process. We take out a copper object from the container, and add the solution to water in a ratio of about 50: 1. All described work is carried out, usually in protective gloves to comply with safety measures;
5. We thoroughly wash the future coverage area of ​​the car soapy water and we clean the required part of the body from traces of paint;
6. With a brush or spray, apply the composition to the surface of the product and leave this thing to dry completely.

Tentatively, a noticeable patina of rust will appear within an hour and a half. If this is not enough for you, then you can repeat the procedure.

There is a way to speed up the rust process using hydrogen peroxide.

1. Peroxide concentrate is taken and applied to the metal surface;
2. While the body is still not dry from the solution, take table salt and sprinkle the sprayed part of the body. The future rusty effect also depends on the amount of salt. It is advisable to cover the entire area with a medium uniform layer of table salt;
3. We roll the car on Fresh air and leave until completely dry. It is important not to touch the surface of the car with your hands until it is completely dry, in order to avoid uneven rusting of the metal.

There are many more folk ways but the two above are the most popular.

Film

If you want to try the Rat Look style on your car, but do not want to spoil the body with natural rust, then there is a film with a corrosion effect especially for you. It is important to understand that the development of the sticker should be carried out individually for your car in order to repeat all the grooves and bends of the body.

Exhaust pipes are extremely important when creating a realistic looking model. Despite their small size and seeming simplicity, they are quite complex elements in the manufacture of any bench model - be it an airplane, tank or truck.

Considering that the parts of the cylinders in the plastic are a little "washed out" and look far from perfect, the main part of the engine is resin parts "Vector", with plastic standard parts of the pipes installed.

Simple drilling of the inner part of the branch pipe with suitable drills gave the required effect of "bent pipes", now it is up to their painting.

First of all, take a pastel crayon and cut it with a knife into a container prepared in advance. This way we get some dark gray powder. Obviously, the smaller the scale of your model, the smaller you will have to make its particles.

Then, using a brush or a toothpick, add the paint to the powder, stirring evenly until a homogeneous mud-like mass of brown-rusty color is obtained. Due to the dark color of the powder, the color of the paint will darken to the required state.

After that, with a brush, carefully apply the resulting mass to the required sections of the pipes and leave it for a while to completely dry the paint. I usually put it off overnight.

If you are too carried away by adding paint, and the pastels in the composition turned out to be less than necessary, then the details will shine a little. It's okay - matte varnish can save you and remove the treacherous shine of the paint.

Now there are small touches - depending on what you want, you can either emphasize the texture of the exhaust with the help of "dry

From the editorial board RUScmd: Again, we offer a translation of an interesting lesson on imitation of rust. The author, Ultrawerke, from the Canary Islands, Spain, shares his skills in corrosive coating. Feature of the lesson - minimum costs time, four different options depending on the type of rust (light corrosion, equipment that has not been cleaned for a long time, severe corrosion, as well as rust that has been deeply rooted in several years). The author deliberately decided to build on the most simple conditions- he basically did not use an airbrush in his work, used available chemistry, and spoke in detail about possible mistakes at work. Many thanks to the Ultrawerke modeler for a great tutorial, lively text and cute photos!
This time we will talk about the effect of rust on scale models... We invite you to get acquainted with the technique of imitating rust using pigments and a little oil paints.

Rust is an important part of a weather-based model, but as with other weather techniques, you can easily overdo it. When applying this effect, you must always be very careful and careful, work with an understanding of the causes of the appearance and development of corrosion, under what conditions it occurs. And you should always check the compliance of the work with the standard.

Under real conditions, rust appears as a result of the reaction of metal elements of a car (for example) with oxygen. This reaction is enhanced by exposure to water (especially salty) or by high humidity... It should be borne in mind that a car abandoned on the coast will corrode differently than a car at war in the desert. The use of this weather technique must always be appropriate for the environmental conditions in which the machine is expected to be present.

We will try to briefly simulate four types of rust. In our examples, corrosion will be very quick and easy, so the results are easy to beat. But the purpose of the lesson is to get to know some simple techniques which give good rust with minimal effort.

Moderate rust on top of the painted surface... Small rust marks will appear on the paint. This happens when water gets into the scratch, causing rust to develop.

Serious rust on top of the painted surface... Rust marks have been developing unhindered for some time, resulting in something like depressions and funnels on the surface of the paint. This type of corrosion is typical for cars left unattended in very humid conditions (or for equipment belonging to the army without order, of course ...).

Corroded metal. Naked metal surface severely rusty.

Extremely rusty surface... This only happens if the car has been rusting for years under open air with very high humidity (say, in a swamp or coast).

Enough theory for now! Let's get some work done.

A rubber blank turned up under my arm, which perfectly suits our goals:

I hastily primed the surface with Vallejo gray paints and divided it into four areas. Since we are doing really fast painting, we do not need an airbrush. To make the paint dry faster, I use a hair dryer.

Effects 2 and 4 will need some texture base, so I've prepared some liquefied PVA glue.

Apply it over area # 4.

And then sprinkle some bicarbonate over this surface, brushing off the excess.

I also apply PVA glue in area # 2 where we need rust craters to pierce the paint. I put more bicarbonate into these grooves.

Now let's move on to painting. Let's start with the corrosive funnels in area # 2 and cover the entire area # 3 and # 4. In these cases, dark rust paint comes in handy. In our example I am using the Vallejo Panzer Aces 302 Dark Rust product. Once it's dry, the primer is ready.

Now I protect the rust spots with a damp mask. I used Vallejo Liquid Mask for this, but Maskol or any similar product can be used.

It is best to apply the mask with a toothpick because this product literally sticks to the brushes, rendering them useless. I also apply a few drops of a moisturizing mask all over the place to further simulate erosion.

Now let's apply paint coatings. I mixed acrylic paint and 50-50 glossy varnish. For our example I used Tamiya X 22 clear paint and XF 55 yellow-brown paint.

Why do you need a glossy varnish? It grabs the paint better after it dries, and along the way also gives the surface a gloss, which is ideal for further simulating atmospheric effects. The only drawback is that the paint will cover a smaller area, but since we usually use an airbrush to apply it, this is not so important. We also need a more dense upper layer to cover the funnels in area # 2.

Since in the above example we are not using an airbrush, I applied a thin layer of paint, drying it with a hairdryer. This resulted in an unexpected and interesting effect: when the mixture of paint and varnish dried at a forced rate, it expanded some of the scratches (exposing the primer and texture). This effect is great for our purposes! Although one should be very careful with this when working with plastic model- plastic can literally melt!

Now carefully remove the wet mask layer using cutting tool and tweezers. Don't worry if parts of the wet mask remain around the edges - this is exactly the effect we are trying to achieve.

The result is in front of you.

Let's start working on the bare metal in area 3. To do this, sharpen the pencil lead over the primer and polish the graphite with your finger. You can also add some silver, but this is not really necessary.

Now let's get into the good old pigments. I prefer products by MIG for many reasons. Correct colors, small bubbles (it takes years to spend under normal use), and the price / performance ratio is the best on the market.

MIG currently produces three types of fluids to simulate corrosion (as well as copper rust), but others can be used to achieve the desired shade. I usually use "old rust" P 230 (Old Rust), "ordinary rust" P 025 (Standard Rust), "light rust" P 024 (Light Rust), "dark clay" P 033 (Dark Mud), as well as " Vietnamese soil "P 031 (Vietnam earth). However, you can play with other shades ... You never know what exactly will turn out: what if something new and interesting, as was the case with paint and a hairdryer.

Let's apply a remover, mixing it with odorless turpentine (Talens 089) and a little "dark rust" P 230. Instead of turpentine, you can mix alcohol, but since I do not intend to let the mixture dry overnight, I use everything that can save us at least a couple of seconds. Therefore, in our example, it is better to limit ourselves to the use of turpentine.

I apply the remover to the rusted surfaces, thinning it even further to create an uneven glaze around the painted areas.

Let the surface dry and repeat the procedure using "ordinary rust" P 025, dry the surface again. Then apply "light rust" P 024. With each step I thinned the wash a little more. The photo shows the result after this stage and final drying.

Now let's take some dark brown oil paint (Dark Umber). I use Van Gogh oil paints in my work, but you can use any other brand. Should not be replaced oil paint on acrylic or gouache. Water-based mixes do not interact very well with the white spirit we are going to use. Also, water does not provide the necessary surface tension to create the effects we are interested in (once we applied a turpentine-based wash, there is no way back!).

I applied a dark brown umber to the painted surfaces.

In theory, a low psi airbrush should be used to spray turpentine over an oily surface. Rusted dots will appear less bright and more natural. But this time too, I am not going to use a spray, but just spray a little turpentine over the painted areas with a pipette, and then very gently stir the drops with a spot brush.

Here is the result of the work after the paint has dried. There is not enough shadow and variety - there is only a rust effect everywhere. Light rust turned out to be slightly excessive, so it would be worth darkening it a little with a dark wash. Finally, if the rust stains were on vertical surface I would add smudges to them instead of letting the spots focus on one point.

Open metal area. I can't add anything, although in the given example it looks boring. Here I would add a little dust and more shades of corrosion.

Extremely corroded surface - the easiest to model. It turned out a little monotonous ... Probably, you need to add a little light wash, then other colors will be added.

Last but not least ... My favorite technique. It would be possible to darken the rust a little, add shadows and dust, but if you enlarge the image, you will notice that this technique gives a very realistic texture effect of chipped paint. It lacks a more natural placement of rusty dents. With a little more work, the view would undoubtedly become much more realistic.

The rusty color is often used to give a surface a particularly attractive look. Rust paint will help to get this shade. There are also options for obtaining natural rust or its imitation. The methods of obtaining a surface "under rust" will be discussed in this article.

Content:

• Dye
• Corrosion of metal
• Copper acid solution
• Bleach and Vinegar Blend
• Other rust options
• Imitation rust
• Film
• Rust effect on wood

Dye

A rusty hue is formed by mixing red, yellow and brown pigments. You can also add a little blue to give the coating some brightness and depth.

There is a natural pigment that, without any mixing different colors makes it possible to get a rusty shade. This pigment is called ocher (another name is iron red lead), which is a mixture of clay and iron oxide hydrate.

Natural conservation is not independent species paints. This is just a component that is added in one amount or another to paints and varnishes(paints, enamels) and primers. In addition to this component, other substances are also present in paints.

The pigment has the following characteristics:

• hiding power - from 60 to 80 grams per square meter;
• oil absorption - from 25 to 35 grams per 100 grams of substance;
• The PH of the water extract is from 7 to 8.

Ocher is characterized by resistance to aggressive chemicals(organic solvents, acids, alkalis), as well as resistance to light and humidity.

Corrosion of metal

In this part of the article, we will show you how to make rust by accelerating corrosion processes. This can be done through a chemical reaction that will provoke rapid rusting of the material.

It should be borne in mind that corrosion develops only in those metals that contain iron. However, even in this case, not all iron-containing metals can easily rust. For example, do not mess with chrome alloys or stainless steel... But ordinary steel and cast iron rust very quickly.

To carry out a chemical reaction, you will need to make a copper-acid solution. A mixture of bleach and vinegar is also effective.

Copper acid solution

We prepare the chemical solution as follows:

Note! The hydrochloric acid solution does not need to be washed off, as it will evaporate after a while in any case.

Bleach and Vinegar Blend

This method is best used for rusting materials with added tin. At the same time, there is an important clarification: the metal must not be primed or sealed before applying the solution.

Procedure:

Other rust options

You can provoke corrosion with hydrogen peroxide and salt as follows:

Another way to form a rusty metal color is to treat the metal with vinegar and hydrogen peroxide:

Finally, the metal can be rusted with lemon salt solution:

Imitation rust

A rusty color can be obtained without paint and without changing the properties of the metal. Moreover, you can give a rusty look to both metal and other materials, in particular wood.

Film

In this case, a rusty film must be applied to the surface of the material. To do this, do the following:

Rust effect on wood

It is also possible to simulate traces of corrosion on wood. This effect is especially often used on pieces of furniture.

You will need the following components:

• paint (two varieties);
• salt;
• sandpaper.

One type of paint should have a rusty color (based on ocher). Another paint is basic, as its color should be combined with the general background of the room.

Before painting, we clean the surface from defects and traces of paint. After stripping, a coat of varnish can be applied (optional). After that we apply a layer of "rusty" paint and wait for the surface to dry. Until the coating has hardened, we treat it with salt.

So, you can make the surface look "under rust" by the most different ways... Which one to choose depends on the task at hand, the type of material and the means at hand.

Modern trends sometimes require to give things and products a kind of “weathering”, which finds its expression in the fact that the model does not look like a newly acquired or assembled one, but has all the characteristics of the one that was already in use.

Giving the product "aging" is not a panacea at all, to smooth out inaccuracies during assembly and painting.

To give a typical aging standard, a dark wash is successively applied to the product, which is subsequently lightened with a dry brush, thereby emphasizing individual details of the product.

The result of this creativity is the spectacular look of the model. The only question is how correct it looks after giving it such an effect so that unnecessary questions do not arise: why, when the part protrudes significantly from the surface of the armor, does it become lighter? To make "aging" natural, you need to achieve maximum repetition of several actions that occur in real life and then the thing will turn out to be contaminated with traces of use.