Modern tendencies sometimes it is required to give things and products a kind of “weathering”, which finds its expression in the fact that the model does not look like a newly acquired or assembled one, but has all the characteristics of the one that was already in use.

Giving the product "aging" is not at all a panacea, because to smooth out inaccuracies during assembly and painting.

To give a typical aging standard, a dark wash is successively applied to the product, which is subsequently lightened with a dry brush, thereby emphasizing individual details of the product.

The result of this creativity is the spectacular look of the model. The only question is how correct it looks after giving it such an effect so that unnecessary questions do not arise: why, when the part protrudes significantly from the surface of the armor, does it become lighter? To make "aging" natural, you need to achieve maximum repetition of several actions that occur in real life and then the thing will turn out to be contaminated with traces of use.

From the editorial board RUScmd: Again, we offer a translation of an interesting lesson on imitation of rust. The author, Ultrawerke, from the Canary Islands, Spain, shares his skills in corrosive coating. Feature of the lesson - minimum costs time, four different options depending on the type of rust (light corrosion, equipment that has not been cleaned for a long time, severe corrosion, as well as rust that has been deeply rooted in several years). The author deliberately decided to build on the most simple terms- he basically did not use an airbrush in his work, used available chemistry, and spoke in detail about possible mistakes at work. Thanks to the Ultrawerke modeler for a great tutorial, lively text and cute photos!
This time we will talk about the effect of rust on scale models... We invite you to get acquainted with the technique of imitating rust using pigments and a little oil paints.

Rust is an important part of a weather-based model, but as with other weather techniques, you can easily overdo it. When applying this effect, one must always be very careful and careful, work with an understanding of the causes of the appearance and development of corrosion, under what conditions it occurs. And you should always check the compliance of work with the standard.

Under real conditions, rust appears as a result of the reaction of metal elements of a car (for example) with oxygen. This reaction is enhanced by exposure to water (especially salty) or by high humidity... It should be borne in mind that a car abandoned on the coast will corrode differently than a car at war in the desert. The use of this weather technique must always correspond to the conditions of that environment, where the presence of this machine is implied.

We will try to briefly simulate four types of rust. In our examples, corrosion will be very quick and easy, so the results are easy to beat. But the purpose of the lesson is to get to know some simple techniques which give good rust with minimal effort.

Moderate rust on top of painted surface... Small rust marks will appear on the paint. This happens when water gets into the scratch, causing rust to develop.

Serious rust on top of the painted surface... Rust marks have been developing unhindered for some time, resulting in a kind of grooves and funnels on the surface of the paint. This type of corrosion is typical for cars left unattended in very humid conditions (or for equipment belonging to the army without order, of course ...).

Corroded metal. Naked metal surface severely rusty.

Extremely rusty surface... This only happens if the car has been rusting for years under open air with very high humidity (say, in a swamp or coast).

Enough theory for now! Let's get some work done.

A rubber blank turned up under my arm, which perfectly suits our goals:

I hastily primed the surface with Vallejo gray paints and divided it into four areas. Since we're doing really fast painting, we don't need an airbrush. To make the paint dry faster, I use a hair dryer.

Effects 2 and 4 will need some texture base, so I've prepared some liquefied PVA glue.

Apply it over area # 4.

And then sprinkle some bicarbonate over this surface, brushing off the excess.

I also apply PVA glue in area # 2 where we need rust "craters" to pierce the paint. I put more bicarbonate into these grooves.

Now let's move on to painting. Let's start with the corrosive funnels in area # 2, and cover the entire area # 3 and # 4. In these cases, dark rust paint comes in handy. In our example I am using the Vallejo Panzer Aces 302 Dark Rust product. Once it's dry, the primer is ready.

Now I protect the rust spots with a damp mask. I used Vallejo Liquid Mask for this, but Maskol or any similar product can be used.

It is best to apply the mask with a toothpick because this product literally sticks to the brushes, rendering them useless. I also apply a few drops of a moisturizing mask all over the place to further simulate erosion.

Now let's apply paint coatings. I mixed 50/50 acrylic and high gloss varnish. For our example I used Tamiya X 22 clear paint and XF 55 tan.

Why do you need a glossy varnish? It grabs the paint better after it dries, and along the way also gives the surface a gloss, which is ideal for further simulating atmospheric effects. The only drawback is that the paint will cover a smaller area, but since we usually use an airbrush to apply it, this is not so important. We also need a more dense upper layer to cover the funnels in area # 2.

Since in the above example we are not using an airbrush, I applied a thin layer of paint, drying it with a hairdryer. This resulted in an unexpected and interesting effect: when the mixture of paint and varnish dried at an accelerated rate, it expanded some of the scratches (exposing the primer and texture). This effect is great for our purposes! Although one should be very careful with this when working with plastic model- plastic can literally melt!

Now carefully remove the wet mask layer using cutting tool and tweezers. Don't worry if parts of the wet mask remain around the edges - this is exactly the effect we are trying to achieve.

The result is in front of you.

Let's start working on the bare metal in area 3. To do this, sharpen the pencil lead over the primer and polish the graphite with your finger. You can also add some silver, but this is not really necessary.

Now let's get started with the good old pigments. I prefer products by MIG for many reasons. Correct colors, small bubbles (it takes years to spend under normal use), and the price / performance ratio is the best on the market.

MIG currently produces three types of fluids to simulate corrosion (as well as copper rust), but others can be used to achieve the desired shade. I usually use "old rust" P 230 (Old Rust), "ordinary rust" P 025 (Standard Rust), "light rust" P 024 (Light Rust), "dark clay" P 033 (Dark Mud), as well as " Vietnamese soil "P 031 (Vietnam earth). However, you can play with other shades ... You never know what exactly will turn out: what if something new and interesting, as was the case with paint and a hairdryer.

Let's apply a remover, mixing it with odorless turpentine (Talens 089) and a little "dark rust" P 230. Instead of turpentine, you can mix alcohol, but since I do not intend to let the mixture dry overnight, I use everything that can save us at least a couple of seconds. Therefore, in our example, it is better to limit ourselves to the use of turpentine.

I apply the remover to the rusted surfaces, thinning it even further to create an uneven glaze around the painted areas.

Let the surface dry and repeat the procedure using "ordinary rust" P 025, dry the surface again. Then apply "light rust" P 024. With each step I thinned the wash a little more. The photo shows the result after this stage and final drying.

Now let's take some dark brown oil paint (Dark Umber). I use Van Gogh oil paints in my work, but you can use any other brand. Should not be replaced oil paint on acrylic or gouache. Water-based mixes do not interact very well with the white spirit we are going to use. Also, water does not provide the necessary surface tension to create the effects we are interested in (once we applied a turpentine-based wash, there is no way back!).

I applied dark brown umber to the painted surfaces.

In theory, a low psi airbrush should be used to spray turpentine over an oily surface. Rusted dots will appear less bright and more natural. But this time too, I am not going to use a spray, but simply sprinkle a little turpentine over the painted areas with a pipette, and then very gently stir the drops with a point brush.

Here is the result of the work after the paint has dried. There is not enough shadow and variety - there is only a rust effect everywhere. Light rust turned out to be slightly excessive, so it would be worth darkening it a little with a dark wash. Finally, if the rust stains were on vertical surface I would add smudges to them instead of letting the spots focus on one point.

Open metal area. I can't add anything, although in the given example it looks boring. Here I would add a little dust and more rust shades.

Extremely corroded surface - easiest to model. It turned out a little monotonous ... Probably, you need to add a little light wash, then other colors will be added.

Last but not least ... My favorite technique. It would be possible to darken the rust a little more, add shadows and dust, but if you enlarge the image, you can see: this technique gives a very realistic texture effect of chipped paint. It lacks a more natural placement of rusty dents. With a little more work, the view would undoubtedly become much more realistic.

If you need to add a rust effect to your model, we recommend that you read this article. There's a lot different methods"aging" model, below we will consider some of them.

To create the effect of rusty metal, there is a specially developed tool - RustAll... This is a kit consisting of three fluids and a dust simulator.

Composition:
- Rustall liquid
- black liquid - for a wash-off effect
- Matt lacquer
- imitation of dust

Let's take a step-by-step how to use the RustAll bundle

Step 1
The surface of the model (without primer is possible) is covered with the first coat of Rustall liquid. Further, after complete drying, another layer is applied. If the resulting color does not suit you, this process can be repeated required amount once.

Step 2
Apply a wash to the model. We also apply with a brush several times, after drying, we wipe off the excess with a cotton swab. This must be done carefully, because the wash can come off along with the previous layer.

Step 3
We cover the entire surface with matte varnish, which is included in the kit.

Step 4
Using a brush, apply the contents from the fourth jar (dust) to the prepared surface. Wait until it is completely dry and remove any residues. Some modelers add Tamiya's Metallic Gray to this step.

Based on materials: modelmaster.ru

More recently, they tried to get rid of corrosion, but now it has become mainstream. How did the rusty style of cars appear and why did it become so interesting to motorists?

In the field of car tuning, a special paint made to look like rust is gaining popularity. A corrosive color can be achieved by two methods: imitation and rusting of iron, which is not very well reflected in the state of transport and its reliability. There are a variety of paints, special imitation films, DIY methods of applying a rusty pattern, and much more to make the original tuning and decor of the car.

Correctly, this tuning style is called Rat Look, which means "rat". This style of design originated in the near 1980s in California, but received massive publicity only in the last five years.

The surface of the car is specially "masked" and made rusty, faded and "tired", imitating old car from the landfill. But there is usually a powerful engine under the hood that will surprise other participants. road traffic inconsistency in appearance.

The concept of the Rat Look is deceitful and also a bit of a protest against glamor and chic. The motorist deliberately makes through holes in the car, strips the body to metal, glues a special film, etc., which is best suited for this style.

This direction of tuning is just for you if you want to stand out from the monotonous stream of cars, or surprise other motorists on the road.

Rust effect paint

Sometimes the painting of the car is replaced with natural rust or pasted over with a film. Having got acquainted with the history of the Rat Look movement, the question is brewing, how is rusty paint that is used to paint metals made? The main component that gives liquid paint rust effect is pigment. The peculiarity of the pigment is that it is more oil-absorbing and denser in color compared to paint. Often mixed red, brown and yellow colors and sometimes blues are added for the depth of the shade.

Ocher is a natural pigment that is added to paint to achieve the desired shade. The natural resource is a mixture of iron oxide hydrate with clay. Ocher Features:

• Resistant to aggressive chemical fluids and reagents;
• Resistant to organic solvents, acids and alkalis;
• Less exposed to environmental factors, including water;
• Ocher coated areas will fade much more slowly than paint.

Metal preparation and paint application with corrosion effect similar to conventional painting works... It is worth remembering that people resort to chipping in order to get a rusty effect and not to spoil the car body. Painting should also be taken responsibly in order to achieve a beautiful result as a result.

Imitation rust

Today there are several ways to artificially make corrosion on the body and one of them is to imitate rust. acrylic paints... To do this, you need an acrylic-based paint Viva Decor or another similar, as well as a primer. Take a little primer and mix with the paint. The resulting mixture is applied to the surface in a chaotic pattern.

With the help of various improvised means, the paint is smeared, scratched with coarse sandpaper and rubbed to obtain a color that imitates rust with the appropriate texture. There's a lot different techniques and methods for of this type coloring, which differ not only in the way of execution, but also in materials.

In addition to paints and pigments, there are several ways to naturally accelerate the formation of corrosion spots. Let's consider a few of them.

Acid and copper solution:

1. Pour about 60 milliliters of hydrochloric acid into a container and put some copper product there;
2. We cover (do not close) the container with a lid, leaving holes for the exhaust of gases that are formed during chemical reaction acids for copper;
3. Leave the container to infuse for about 6-7 days;
4. After about a week, you will have a concentrated solution of copper and acid, which accelerates the metal corrosion process. We take out a copper object from the container, and add the solution to water in a ratio of about 50: 1. All described work is carried out, usually in protective gloves to comply with safety measures;
5. We thoroughly wash the future coverage area of ​​the car soapy water and we clean the required part of the body from traces of paint;
6. With a brush or spray, apply the composition to the surface of the product and leave this thing to dry completely.

Tentatively, a noticeable patina of rust will appear within an hour and a half. If this is not enough for you, then you can repeat the procedure.

There is a way to speed up the rusting process using hydrogen peroxide.

1. Peroxide concentrate is taken and applied to the metal surface;
2. While the body has not yet dried from the solution, take table salt and sprinkle the sprayed part of the body. The future rusty effect also depends on the amount of salt. It is advisable to cover the entire area with a medium uniform layer of table salt;
3. We roll the car into fresh air and leave it until it dries completely. It is important not to touch the surface of the car with your hands until it is completely dry, in order to avoid uneven rusting of the metal.

There are many more folk ways but the two above are the most popular.

Film

If you want to try the Rat Look style on your car, but do not want to spoil the body with natural rust, then there is a film with a corrosion effect especially for you. It is important to understand that the development of the sticker must be carried out individually for your car in order to repeat all the grooves and bends of the body.

V recent years the rusty color is gaining more and more popularity. You can achieve this color in one of two ways: to imitate rusting, or to rust the metal naturally. How to make rust different ways, will be discussed below.

Natural rust

This article does not take into account the natural rusting of the metal, which gradually occurs with it under the influence of the environment. Natural rust can be accelerated by a chemical reaction that will corrode the metal.

First of all, you need to make sure that the metal to be rusted is susceptible to corrosion. Metals containing iron are prone to rust. However, many materials are resistant to rust, such as stainless steel or chrome alloys. Wrought iron and cast iron lend themselves well to corrosion.

Copper acid solution

Instructions:

Vinegar and bleach solution

This technique is best suited for iron or tin based metals. Prerequisite: the surface must not be primed or covered with sealant.

Instructions:

1. Mix part of the vinegar with two parts of bleach in the container.
2. We place the metal in the container so that it is completely immersed. We are waiting for about half an hour. After this period, rust will appear on the surface.
3. We wipe the material with a rag.
4. Until the item is completely dry, direct contact with it should be avoided to avoid damaging the skin with chlorine.
5. We fix the rust with a primer. The easiest way is to apply a primer in an aerosol can.

other methods

The above are the most common methods for accelerating corrosive processes. However, there are other ways as well.

Rusting with hydrogen peroxide and salt:

1. Pour the peroxide into the container. It is advisable to use a spray bottle as this is the easiest way to apply liquid to the material.
2. We spray metal well.
3. Sprinkle salt on the wet surface. The metal will start to rust almost immediately. The intensity of rusting depends on the amount of salt.
4. Let the metal dry on fresh air... The surface must not be wiped off before it is dry, otherwise the rusting will be very uneven. Wipe the surface only after it is completely dry.

Rusting with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar:

1. We clean the surface (if necessary).
2. Spray peroxide over the surface from a spray bottle.
3. Spray vinegar on metal.
4. We are waiting for several hours until rust appears.

Rusting with lemon juice and salt:

1. Mix 4 parts lemon juice with 1 part table salt.
2. We process the cleaned surface with a solution. Rust marks will appear soon.

It is not necessary to spoil the material in order to obtain the rust effect. It is possible to simulate rusting. Moreover, you can give a rusty look to both metal and other materials, in particular wood.

Rust paint

A rusty hue is formed by mixing red, yellow and brown pigments. You can also add a little blue to give the coating some brightness and depth.

There is a natural pigment that makes it possible to get a rusty shade without any. This pigment is called ocher (another name is iron red lead), which is a mixture of clay and iron oxide hydrate.

Natural conservation is not independent species paints. This is just a component that is added in one way or another to paints and varnishes(paints, enamels) and primers. In addition to this component, other substances are also present in paints.

The pigment has the following characteristics:

• hiding power - from 60 to 80 grams per square meter;
• oil absorption - from 25 to 35 grams per 100 grams of substance;
• The PH of the water extract is from 7 to 8.

Ocher is characterized by resistance to aggressive chemicals(organic solvents, acids, alkalis), as well as resistance to light and moisture.

Imitation film

You can give the metal a rusty look using a special film. Below are instructions for its use:

1. Degrease the surface with alcohol.
2. Trying on the elements of the film to the surface.
3. We moisten the metal from a special spray bottle. The film will stick to a damp surface better.
4. We tear off the film from the substrate.
5. We glue the middle part of the canvas first, and then level the edges along the surface.
6. Dry the glued film with a hairdryer.

Rust effect on wooden furniture

Imitation of rust can be carried out not only on metal, but also on wood.

Necessary materials:

• paint (2 types);
• salt;
• sandpaper;

One of the paints should be as similar as possible to rust. The second paint acts as the main one; it should be suitable for furniture and other accessories in the room.

Before applying the rust-colored paint, we clean the surface of the wood from all defects. You can also varnish wood. Next, paint the furniture with rust-like paint and wait until the surface dries slightly. Apply a layer of sodium chloride to the still wet surface.

When the surface with the salt applied to it dries, apply the base paint. We are waiting for the surface to dry. After that, remove the salt with fine-grained sandpaper. Failure to remove all the salt will result in a slight roughness effect that will accentuate the rusty color. The last step is to treat the wood with a protective layer of varnish.

The rust effect will give any product a completely unique, unrepeatable look. And you can do all this with your own hands. The main thing in the process of work is to observe technological process and adhere to protective measures, as in many cases it will be necessary to work with chemicals that are unsafe to health.