Where does the wireworm come from in the garden and how to deal with it. How to get rid of kivsyaks in the country - effective and safe ways to fight

The appearance is not just a matter of concern, but serious problems from gardeners. The worms are so gluttonous that a tree in less than a month will simply turn into a lifeless skeleton.

Caterpillars - the larvae of various butterflies - “specialize” in leaves, fruits, young shoots. They can live under the bark. it real disaster, with which you need to start a fight as soon as the first "hungry guests" became visible.

Below we will tell you how to get rid of worms on an apple tree.

You saw worms on an apple tree, wormy apples - what to do? Blame for this. The dark gray butterfly is sometimes even invisible against the background of tree bark.

Butterflies fly out when the tree starts to bloom and the flight lasts 2 months. During this period, they lay light green eggs.

Place one egg on different parts of the culture. Each individual is capable of laying 40-120 eggs. The hatched caterpillars enter the fetus through the petiole or peel. Fruits do not develop and may fall off.

The result of such an invasion:

  • In the first generation, up to 25% of apples are damaged;
  • In the second, about 80% of apples.

Such a large defeat is due to the fact that one caterpillar damages several apples... Gnawing the pulp of one fruit, the worms in the fruits of the apple tree move to another. When the apple falls, the caterpillar crawls out and looks for a place to form a cocoon. Usually, such a place is the crown of a tree (hollows, cracks, cracks), uncleaned foliage. In the spring, the pupa becomes a butterfly. This is how it works life cycle this insect.

An apple damaged by worms.

Control measures

How to deal with worms on apple trees? First of all, you need to start with prevention. It is easier to prevent the appearance of a pest than to deal with it later.

  • Cocoons with wintering caterpillars are removed in the spring-autumn period, peeling off the old bark;
  • The apple tree needs to be shaken daily so that the infected apples fall off. Collecting volunteers is one of important points prevention;
  • Plant between apple trees flowering plants that will attract insects - enemies of the moth;
  • The moth does not like the smell of tomatoes; this vegetable crop can also be planted nearby;
  • When the first carrion appears (the fall of immature, affected fruits), trapping glue belts are applied. To pupate, the larvae try to return to the apple tree and stick to the trapping belt;
  • In the evening, caterpillars can be caught for apple syrup. Take 100 g of dried fruits, boil for 30 minutes in 2 liters. water, pour sugar and yeast. When the drink is fermented, it is placed between the trees. It attracts butterflies, which descend to the surface and die;
  • When storing apples, the container must be tightly closed. Crumpled paper is folded into it, where the larvae from the carrion are taken. The paper is burned, and the container is washed and treated with boiling water.

Using preventive measures, you will save time and effort, your finances, and your harvest. That's why do not immediately use "chemistry", as a panacea for all ills.

Important! Caterpillars of the moth not only make moves in the apple, they can be carriers of spores of fungi and bacteria that cause various diseases of the fruit. For example, apple rot.

Watch the video on how to remove caterpillars from apples:

Chemical control measures

And how to sprinkle an apple tree from worms? Various chemical compounds will help.

The butterfly flies out at night, so it is better to process in evening hours a week after the apple blossoms have blossomed. More often used for processing Confidor or Intavir.

By the time the apples ripen, the fruits no longer contain "chemistry." Can be applied Agrovertin or Lepidocide... They are safer because created on a biological basis. Spray them twice at weekly intervals.

Folk remedies

Often use Birch tar... It is necessary to moisten the old rags in tar and hang them in different places of the crown.

It scares away butterflies that cannot lay their eggs on the tree.

Infusions of herbs and plants also repel the pest. Use Strong-smelling herbs such as wormwood, tansy.

Don't forget to add soap, it will allow the product to last longer on the leaves of the tree.

Attention! Planting a culture such as phacelia next to apple trees attracts a parasitic beetle, which lays its eggs in a moth egg, piercing it. By attracting birds, the garden can be rid of caterpillars.

Larvae of the most damaging butterflies and beetles

There are a great many worms (or in other words, butterfly larvae):

  • Winter moth caterpillars leaves, buds, flowers are affected. They hide between the leaves, gluing them together. The larvae are gluttonous: with a large number, instead of leaves, you can see veins;
  • Goose- a beetle that eats small holes in the fruit. The clutch of eggs of the female is left in the apple pulp. Then they gnaw the stalk and the apple falls off. The larvae continue their development in fallen fruits, then emerge on the soil surface and pupate;
  • Subcortical leafworm- a butterfly that creates its clutch in the bark of an apple tree, cracks, damage. The hatched larvae gnaw holes in the bark. Usually the lower part of the trunk suffers greatly, in which sap flow is disturbed. After a number of years, the apple tree dries up;
  • Bluehead scoop- a large butterfly, lays eggs on branches in the crown. In early spring, larvae with yellow stripes and a blue head emerge from them. They damage buds and feed on leaves;
  • Apple broom, whose caterpillars eat leaves, twisting and entangling with cobwebs. Butterflies hibernate, which in early spring re-create clutches of eggs;
  • Apple moth butterflies active at night. The masonry is left on the smooth bark of the tree branches. The yellowish caterpillars feed on young leaves. They turn brown, dry up and fall off;
  • Apple blossom beetle Is a weevil beetle that leaves eggs in flower buds. Caterpillars eat pistils and stamens, sticking them together with their secretions. The flowers die, the fruit does not form.
The caterpillar of the winter moth.
Goose.
Leaf roll.
Bluehead scoop.
Apple broom.
Apple moth.
Apple blossom beetle.

The most common caterpillars are listed, of which there are much more in nature. Moreover, some of them live in certain regions.

How to treat apple trees from worms in apples?

For the destruction of insects, use insecticides... They are general action(affect a number of pests) and targeted action (affect a specific pest). Modern drugs are highly effective and one treatment per season is enough to get rid of them completely.

Attention! In order not to overload your Apple orchard by the action of chemicals, choose one complex preparation that acts on most pests. If chemical agent is used for the first time, try it first on one tree, and only then use it in large quantities.

The fight against sucking and gnawing pests, especially immediately after their appearance, is effective with the help of insecticides:

  • Karbofos (10-30%);
  • Trichlorometaphos (3.5%);
  • Rovikurt (10-25%);
  • Benzophosphate (10%).

Lepidocide is a biological insecticidal drug. Amazes up to 40 species of insects without causing them to become addictive. Safe for other living organisms... Can be used in different periods of tree growth. Contains bacterial spores that get into the intestines of the caterpillar, disrupting its function. The caterpillar stops feeding and dies after 2-5 days.

Iron and copper sulfate, urea, diesel fuel, preparation 30+- time-tested means. How they will act on a specific pest must be looked at individually. But often gardeners use them.


Apple tree processing copper sulfate.

From the moment of the end of flowering to harvesting, treatment with these substances (except for lepidocide) is not recommended, because with the fruits, they enter the body. How to treat apple trees from worms, you will be prompted by the instructions on the package, which you must definitely familiarize yourself with. Alternate preparations annually, pests become addicted to them. And no one has canceled the use of PPE during processing.

Prevention measures

It is important to know when and how to process the apple tree so that there are no worm apples. All enumerated methods traditional, safe, but in the case of mass destruction of the apple tree, they are not very effective:

  • Use of trapping belts;
  • Collecting caterpillars by hand with spider nests;
  • The adult stage (beetles) can be shaken off in the morning on a litter under a tree;
  • Digging and loosening will allow you to cope with individuals wintering in the soil;
  • Use of sex pheromones (attractants) that attract male moths;
  • Collection and destruction of volunteers, collection of fallen leaves;
  • Cleaning old bark on a tree;
  • Removal of branches damaged by pests;
  • Preparation of infusions and decoctions from herbs with a pungent odor (wormwood, tansy, tobacco).

All these activities will help stop the invasion of voracious larvae of many insects, so they should not be neglected.

Important! Infusion of tobacco, as a favorite of many, is not as safe. Nicotine is a toxic component of tobacco used to make nicotine sulfate (now a prohibited drug). Therefore, you need to use security measures when working with it.

Seasonal processing

This is one of the serious questions that gardeners are concerned about. Is there a drug when to work with it? When will it be most effective.

  1. In the earliest before kidney swelling:
    • pruning old and diseased branches;
    • stripping the bark from egg-laying pests;
    • cleaning of last year's caterpillar nests.
  2. With swelling of the kidneys:
  3. Bud formation:
    • the use of Bordeaux fluid.
  4. At the end of flowering:
    • manual collection of caterpillar nests and egg-laying;
    • cleaning up the volunteers;
    • the imposition of hunting belts on the trunks.
  5. Everything :
    • cleaning and destruction of carrion, caterpillars.
  6. after falling leaves:
    • removal of trapping belts and their destruction;
    • stripping the trunk from old bark;
    • whitewashing of boles;
    • cleaning of fallen leaves;
    • digging up the soil;
    • collection and destruction of wintering clutches of pests;
    • cleaning of old branches.

How to get rid of the worm

In the trunk of an apple tree

The larvae are laid in the bark of the apple tree bark beetles, sapwood, subcrustal leaflet. They gnaw holes in the bark and lay their eggs there. Then faces appear: more often white and legless.

On the surface, damage is practically invisible, there may be small holes.

But the twigs in nearby places gradually dry out, as sap flow is disrupted.

Control measures you can use the following:

  • Open the wound site with a knife to a depth of 1 cm. You may not always be able to reach the pest, but deeper cuts will harm the plant. Draw up the systemic syringe insecticide and inject into the depth of the wound. Where the pest or its larvae are hiding.
  • You can prepare and apply the balm all over the bark. This method more efficient since treats those wounds that are invisible. A balsam is being prepared for the bark: 5 hours of clay + 5 hours of lime + 1 hour each of copper and iron vitriol + 5 hours of a young mullein. The composition is thoroughly mixed and applied to the bark. Before processing, the old bark is scraped off for the best effect of the balm.

In flowers

Lays eggs in a flower apple blossom beetle... And one egg in each flower. The larva gnaws the bud from the inside. And if you open a flower, then a worm or a pupa is visible inside. It is clear that the ovary is not formed, which means there will be no apples either.

Control measures use prophylactic and destructive:

  • Use of trapping belts;
  • Shaking off in the morning on a tarp (adults);
  • Whitewashing the trunk with milk of lime;
  • Processing before bud break with Karbofos or Iskra.

Answers to frequently asked questions

How to get rid of white worms under the bark?

Small, small holes are visible on the bark, and nearby branches dry up. You can cut off the bark, but you cannot reach the larvae. Therefore, we take a syringe, we type into it insecticide BI-58(acts for sure) and enter into the place of injury on the tree. We cover the wound with garden pitch.

If there are worms and cobwebs on the apple tree?

Most likely a pest - apple moth or... Folding a leaf, she pupates in it, fastening it with a web. If disturbed, the caterpillar wriggles and falls out of the leaf, hanging on the cobweb.

Caterpillars of the apple moth also surround themselves with cobwebs, only live in colonies. Environmentally friendly control measures are infusion of wormwood, tobacco, garlic. You can cut the nest and burn it. It is also good to catch butterflies by light (light traps), because they are nocturnal.

Remedies for worms on leaves

The choice of drugs is very large: Kemifos, Aktellik, Tanrek, Commander, Iskra gold, Fas tablets, Biotlin biological product and many others. Do not use the same drug all the time. Pests get used to it, and the effect is gradually reduced to zero. Try to use modern means: they are effective and fast.

If green worms appear?

Green caterpillars - larvae of leaf rollers. They feed on buds, then leaves, from which only veins remain. She is very voracious and represents the present disaster... More often affects young gardens.

Over the summer, they give several generations, so you need to carry out several treatments. If you see that the apples are all wormy, how to process the apple tree? Better to use insecticides since with a massive defeat, other methods cannot cope.

Conclusion

Grow an apple tree and get good harvest tasty and healthy fruits are troublesome. Pests visit the apple orchard every year. And they don't just visit, but want to settle down for a long time.

You need to carefully monitor the condition of the trees and begin to fight them. immediately... Preventive measures should be taken annually by compiling a calendar of works. Then you will not be left without a crop.


In contact with

Kivsaki, as you know, live in those places where moisture remains for a long time. Therefore, do not delay the destruction of weeds and cleaning up vegetable debris in your summer cottage.

Also pay attention to the fact that everything on your site is in its place. It is necessary to follow the order, because these worms can live under the orphaned things.

Remember to take time to loosen the topsoil. Thanks to this procedure, its moisture content will significantly decrease, therefore, the likelihood that kivsyaki will harm strawberries will decrease.

Isolating its leaves from the soil surface will also help to keep strawberries from kivsyak. To do this, you can put straw or, for example, shavings on the ground.

If you pick kivsyak by hand, it will also help to preserve the strawberry harvest. These worms are nocturnal, so they should be collected at a specific time: late in the evening and early in the morning. During the day they can only be seen in cloudy weather.

Before fruiting strawberries, distract the kivsyak from it with bait. To do this, cut potatoes or carrots into medium-sized pieces and arrange them all over. suburban area... Remember to check the baits daily and replace them with new ones.

To avoid the appearance of kivsyaks, you should properly water the berry - the soil, during the ripening of strawberries, should not be waterlogged under the bushes.

Pick up ripe berries immediately. If you see the affected strawberries with a lump, then immediately remove them and throw them away.

Everything chemical substances, which exist on sale, unfortunately, will not help in the fight against this pest, but all because during spraying, the kivsyaki are deep in the ground and the poison does not reach them.

How to understand that there is a nematode on a strawberry

The nematode lives in the axils of leaves and in the buds of strawberry bushes; during one growing season, up to 8 generations of worms are replaced on the plant. Several types of nematodes can live on strawberries: the most dangerous are leaf and bud nematodes, as well as root nematodes. They are transmitted from planting material, seeds, berries, plant residues. The danger of nematodes is that they weaken plants, affecting their buds, inflorescences and roots, as a result of which the plant becomes dwarf, its yield decreases.

Plants affected by the nematode change: the leaf blades become smaller, become ugly, of irregular shape. The sheets are curled, wrinkled, covered with brown or yellow spots. Another sign of plant damage by nematodes is a change appearance shoots, they are often shortened, thickened, their fusion occurs. Peduncles become smaller, often become underdeveloped, take irregular shape, the berries grow small or they are not at all.

Prevention of nematode infection of plants

The increase in the number of nematodes occurs in the spring-summer period, continues until the end of July, after which there is a temporary decline in worm activity. There are several basic rules to avoid infesting your garden with a nematode:

To do this, you need to observe the crop rotation, but you cannot plant strawberries after onions, potatoes, peas, beets and garlic - all of them are also easily affected by these pests.

In the area where diseased plants grew, you cannot plant strawberries and strawberries for two years - this is how much the nematode remains in the soil.

It is not worth buying strawberry seedlings from random vendors in the market. It is better to purchase it in specialized nurseries.

If plants sick with a nematode are found on the site, you need to immediately dig them up and burn them outside the garden area.

Treatment methods

You can use the heat treatment method. To do this, you need to dig out the plant, rinse the roots from the soil residues and immerse together with the leaves in a container with hot water(+ 50-55оС). It is necessary to keep the plants in this state for 10-15 minutes. This method is quite effective when planting seedlings in beds to prevent the spread of the disease.

A good result is given by planting in a garden bed with strawberries.

Often, gardeners can see worm-like pests eating strawberries. In fact, these are not worms, not wireworms or caterpillars, but kivsyaks. This is the general name for millipedes, which have two pairs of legs on each segment of the body (with the exception of the four front and rear). They are almost ubiquitous. Their body length varies from 3 mm to 28 cm (in tropical species). They live in the soil, adhering to layers with a moderate level of moisture. Almost everyone feeds on sick, damaged, dead or decaying parts of plants in upper layers soil, as well as fallen fruits and berries lying on the ground. But with a strong lack of moisture in the soil or mass reproduction (every 3-4 years), they can feed on green juicy tissues of plants and cause serious damage, since they can eat 1.5 times their weight per day. Disturbed, they first curl up in a spiral, in the form of a snail shell. If you disturb them further, they begin to sharply bend the ends of the body in opposite directions, "convulsing."

In our country, berries ( garden strawberry) most often damages kivsyak spotted, or speckled (Blaniulus guttulatus)... Depending on the phase of development and the age of an adult kiwsyak, the color of its body is different: light brown, spotted, even black. Kivsyak is speckled by the end of life, but it lives for several years, reaches 5 cm in length and even more. It is active in the dark, hides in shelters during the day, but on cloudy days, in shaded areas and in wet weather, it comes to the surface during the day. Reproduction takes place at a temperature of +22 ... + 28 ° C and 85% humidity. In the soil from a mixture of earth and excrement, the female builds a dome-shaped nest, where she lays up to 70 eggs. Sometimes eggs are laid in heaps in the ground, under stones and other objects on the soil surface. After 2 - 4 weeks, larvae emerge from them - small copies of adult kivsyak. Their full development can take up to 3 years. Periodically, the larvae molt; after each molt, their body increases by one segment. In dry weather, kivsaki are taken under, tiles, boards, heaps of garbage, tops, creeping grass and other objects, under which moisture remains longer than in an open area. When the top layer of the soil dries up, they go into the ground. Both larvae and adults overwinter in the soil.

Signs of plant damage and damage

The signs of damage are not specific. Kivsyaki gnaw holes of various depths in the berry. But often inside the hole, you can find a kivsya larva or even several larvae intertwined in a ball.

Damaged berries acquire bad smell, they cannot be used for food. In a cold and wet spring, kivsaki can damage root system and underground part stems of many crops, gnawing small cavities in them. The affected areas turn brown or black. The development of plants slows down, and if severely damaged, they dry out and die. In cases where kivsaki are present in the soil together with woodlice and two-tails, the damage to cultivated plants is most serious.

Risk group

In the diet of kivsyakov root crops:,. And also (carrion), overripe, and strawberries or, touching the soil. Germinating seeds, tomatoes, melons, stems and roots of any seedlings. Kivsaki also eat cucumber fruits lying on the ground, leaves, champignons (and others), as well as decorative pot crops indoors.

How to deal with worms on strawberries

  • Deep plowing in the morning frost late autumn(kivsaki are thermophilic and die at low temperatures).
  • and timely cleaning of plant residues.
  • Putting things in order: there should not be scraps of boards, slabs, pieces of slate, etc. lying unattended on the ground.
  • to reduce the moisture content of the surface layer.
  • In spring, you can isolate young strawberry leaves from the soil surface with a layer of straw or shavings (mulch). You can also isolate the berries by using the flower stalks.
  • Hand picking of adult kivsia and their larvae late in the evening, early in the morning and on cloudy days.
  • Before the strawberries ripen, you should start using pieces of potatoes or carrots as bait, spread out over the area with timely periodic collection and destruction of kivsyak.
  • During the ripening period of berries, it is impossible to overmoisten the soil under the strawberry bushes.
  • Affected berries, if found, must be removed immediately.
  • It is important to harvest berries in a timely and complete manner.

Attention! When touched, kivsyaki often emit a caustic secret that has a specific smell and stains the hands in a red or brown-purple color. Sometimes this secret causes an allergic reaction, so gloves are recommended.

Using traps

Construction of artificial shelters from improvised material: pieces of boards or old roofing material, damp rags, etc. under which the kivsaki gather, with the subsequent revision of the shelters and the destruction of pests under them.

You can also use food baits - spread slices of carrots, potatoes, apples over the area, then collect and destroy the kivsyak.

You can dig trapping grooves up to 10 cm deep and up to 6 - 7 cm wide, at the bottom of which cans from under mayonnaise are dug in at a distance of 2 - 3 m. When crawling over the surface, the nodules fall into the groove, crawl along the bottom and fall into the cans.

In the fall, you can dig holes 30 x 30 cm in size and 30-40 cm deep, lay leaves, slices of potatoes, carrots and vegetable waste, sprinkle with a layer of earth 5 - 10 cm. Mark the holes with branches so that they can be easily found. With the onset of frost, choose the contents of the pits and burn them along with the kivsyak on the fire, or simply scatter it around the site - all the pests gathered for the winter will die.

Scaring off kivsyaks with superphosphate, soap-kerosene emulsion, as well as the use of molluscicides against them ( Thunderstorm, Slime Eater) is ineffective, since the surface of the body of kivsaki is protected by a thick layer of chitin. These agents can cause insignificant harm only to recently molted larvae, the chitinous layer of which has not yet reached the required size.

Measures to actively combat kivsyak

At the moment, the list of pesticides and agrochemicals approved for use on the territory of the Russian Federation does not contain recommended preparations for protecting plants from kivsyak. This is explained by the fact that the plots are treated with pesticides during daylight hours, when a significant part of the kivsyak is located in shelters, and does not fall under the treatment. Even the introduction of preparations aimed at destroying root pests of plants (,) does not give a noticeable result in the case of combating nodule.

Our expert - pediatrician of the highest qualification category, gastroenterologist Elena Zlotya.

Of course, realizing that some kind of tailed creature has started up inside your own child is not just unpleasant, but scary. For some parents, this fear grows to the size of phobias, so they constantly wage an implacable struggle with worms - merciless and most often pointless.

Whom are we poisoning?

Analysis alone is not enough

By the way, it is ineffective to donate feces for eggs to worms once. The most accurate result is given only by three analyzes (passed over several days in a row, well, or every other day). Control tests are also done three times.

Although the most reliable method for detecting worms is stool analysis, there are worms that can be detected with your own eyes. For example, pinworms (pathogens of enterobiasis) lay their eggs only on the surface, so they crawl out at night. They can be seen in the anal folds of the child, on linen or in the contents of the pot. If a child sleeps badly and restlessly at night, turns in bed, scratches his bottom, it is necessary to take him to the clinic and pass scraping for enterobiasis. But just before the analysis in the morning, in no case should the baby be washed away - otherwise all the troubles will be in vain. Scraping for enterobiasis and analysis of feces for worm eggs are among the mandatory for preschoolers and younger students (it is done once a year or 3 times if there is a pool in the garden).

It is very easy to get infected with pinworms, because their eggs are almost weightless and therefore can move in space, settling on any surfaces - toys, books, furniture. Therefore, if there is a sick person in the house, it is better for everyone else to also be treated. But in principle, you can do without pills. Since the entire life cycle of pinworms fits into 1 month, you can get rid of them in just 30 days, if you change your child's underwear twice a day (morning and night), and plug it up at night anus cotton swab with petroleum jelly. This was done before, before the invention of special drugs.