Nutritious lily bulbs are very fond of not only rodents, but also smaller pests. In addition, the succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants infect viral and fungal diseases that spoil appearance flowers and can even completely destroy them.

To cure a lily, first of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.

Fungal diseases of lilies

Lily is attacked by fungal infections found in many flower crops. The spread of rot is facilitated by high humidity, improper care, lack of preventive measures.

Of all fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous. Initially, the disease affects the lower leaves of plants, but very quickly spreads to all parts of the flower.

Signs

The first signs of gray rot are brown round spots, which in the process of development are transformed into brown mucous tissue with a gray coating. Gray rot spreads in rainy and damp weather, as well as when sharp drops temperature. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative effect.

Control measures

It is difficult to stop the disease, since the pathogen overwinters in bulbs and plant debris. Therefore, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a 0.5-1% solution of a TMTD dressing agent or in a 0.25-0.5% Fundazole suspension. When the first signs of the disease appear, the flowers are treated every 1-1.5 weeks with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or another fungicide (Fundazol, Hom, Oxyhom).

Fusarium

Fusarium is a rot that affects the bottom of a lily bulb. A plant that normally develops during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, introduction organic fertilizers containing spores of the fungus.

Signs

Fungus damage begins at the bottom of the bulb. Where scales attach to it, the lily bulb turns brown and falls apart. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to the supra-bulbous roots that are not damaged by the fungus. Nevertheless, in winter, the plant is doomed to inevitable death.

Control measures

Disinfect the soil copper sulfate and formalin 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs. Soak the bulbs themselves for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazole. Spray plantings every 1-1.5 weeks with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol or Bavistin. You can also carry out treatments with 0.2% Topsin-M or Euparen solution.

Phithium is a disease of lilies, which causes rotting of the roots, as a result of which the development of culture is disrupted: the plant receives less nutrients and moisture. Affected lily loses its decorative effect, blooms poorly.

Signs

The tops of the leaves turn yellow, the lily dries. The roots of the bulb are covered with brown spots.

Control measures

Remove the affected parts of the plant. Before planting, infect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs in a 0.2% solution of Fundazole for half an hour.

Blue mold attacks the bulbs during storage.

Signs

White spots of fungal hyphae with a greenish bloom on the bulbs. When you dig up the bulbs, you will notice that they have turned yellow and their roots are dead.

Control measures

Rejection of diseased bulbs. Compliance with storage rules. Ventilation and disinfection of the store.

Penicillosis

Penicillosis affects all parts of the lilies and provokes their decay.

Signs

Bulbs, flowers, stems are covered with a green bloom. Sick plants are stunted and form weak peduncles.

Control measures

Observe storage rules. When the first signs appear, pickle the affected bulbs in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate.

Rust

This disease is transmitted through plant debris contaminated with fungal spores.

Signs

The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots that turn yellow over time. Pads of red spores appear on the surface of the spots. As a result, the stems and leaves of the lilies dry out.

Control measures

Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Tsineb and regularly feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Re-plant lilies in the area where the bulbs affected by rust grew, no earlier than after 3 years.

Lily viral diseases

Bulbous viral diseases are spread by pests (aphids and thrips) or by the growers themselves through infected garden tools.

Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses

A fairly common disease of lilies, which is carried by aphids.

Signs

Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses appear as light streaks and ring spots on leaves and flowers. As a result of the defeat, the lily stem is deformed, stops growing.

Control measures

Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools. In order to control the vector of the disease (aphids), spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos.

Tulip variegation virus

This virus takes up residence inside the cells of lilies. Most often, aphids are transferred from tulips.

Signs

The variegation virus disrupts the pigmentation of the petals, as a result of which flowers appear with strokes, strokes, spots of a different color. Diseased bulbs of the next generation decrease in size, the plants weaken, the variety gradually degenerates.

Control measures

Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools.

Rosette disease

The occurrence of this disease in lilies is provoked by a whole complex of viruses.

Signs

Lilies infected with this virus are characterized by thickening and yellowing of the stem and the absence of flowers.

Control measures

Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulations with bulbs and aboveground parts of plants.

Lily pests

There are about 15 types of pests that affect lilies. These small insects weaken plants and carry viruses. Let's list the most dangerous of them.

Spider mite

This pest feeds on the juice of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. Eggs red spider mite can live in soil for up to 5 years.

Signs

The lily leaves curl, the plant itself gradually dries up. Upon closer inspection, the leaves show white eggs and adult red spider mites.

Control measures

If a pest is detected, spray the plants soapy water, 0.2% solution of Karbofos or acaricide (Apollo, Aktofit, etc.).

Squeak beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle)

Bright red squeak beetle lays larvae on lily leaves color pink covered with green-brown mucus, which can strip plants of almost all leaves.

Signs

Larvae and adults of the pest visible to the naked eye.

Control measures

Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).

The lily fly starts inside an unpainted lily bud. Damage will become noticeable when the fly larva has already done "its job" and pupated in the ground.

Signs

Eaten pistils and anthers of stamens on flowers.

Control measures

Destroy damaged buds. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Ditox, EC, etc.).

Medvedka

The bear eats the roots, bulbs and stems of the lily.

Signs

The presence of a bear on the site can be seen by the holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily is dying, and numerous passages come out to the surface of the earth around the plant, most likely the reason is precisely in the defeat of the bear.

Control measures

Arrange traps for the bear in the ground. For example, pits with manure or slate shelters where the insect will crawl to warm up and lay eggs. Collected in one place, the bear will be easy to destroy. Late autumn you need to dig deep into the ground in order to destroy the wintering stages of the pest.

Khrushch (beetle larva)

Like the bear, the grub larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.

Signs

White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. In case of damage, the death of the plant occurs.

Control measures

Dig deep into the soil before planting, manually pick the larvae of the beetle out of it.

This pest lays eggs on the soil surface in May-June. Young individuals hatch from the eggs, which are introduced into the bulb, causing it to rot.

Signs

In late spring - early summer, small black flies start circling around the lilies, hovering in flight and making a characteristic babbling sound. If you spot these pests, most likely they have already deposited their larvae in the soil.

Control measures

Spray plants with 0.2% solution of Karbofos or other insecticide (Inta-Vir, etc.). Dig up the ground in autumn, cover with peat. Powder the bulbs with Bazudin before planting.

To reduce the number of pests, planting lilies should be kept clean, maintain normal soil moisture, remove plant debris, destroy pests, spray plants with insecticides.

We hope that now, if suddenly your lilies begin to "mope", you can easily establish the cause of their ill health, clearly identify the pest or disease and "declare war on them" in time. Take good care of your plants and don't get sick.

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Exists great amount diseases affecting lilies. Let's consider the main ones.

Gray rot, or botrytis (Botrytis elliptica), appears in the spring in cool weather with high humidity. Young leaves (affected starting from the bottom of the petiole) look like they have been scalded with boiling water. Diseased buds bend, stems break, fall. Gray rot also affects wet leaves at the end of summer. The most resistant to the disease are OT and LA hybrids.

Susceptible - white-flowered hybrids. For protection, they are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, copper-containing fungicides or other preparations. In a rainy summer, you need to spray it after 7-10 days on dry leaves.

Fusarium rot(bottom rot, basal rot) affects the bulbs - starting from the bottom, depressed ulcers and yellow-brown spots appear. Then it falls apart, the roots rot. Plants are infected through the roots and in places of mechanical damage.

Signs of fusarium- yellowing of the lower leaves and gradual drying of the entire plant. During the winter or during storage, the infected bulb dies. Disease contributes heat, waterlogging of the soil and the introduction of unripe organic matter.

Severely affected plants are dug up and destroyed. Effectively etching the bulbs 1-2 days before planting with a 0.2% suspension of Topsin-M or Fundazol (Benlat), 0.1% Tecto emulsion for 30 minutes. In the spring, fluff lime is scattered over the soil surface.

Sclerocial rot (fungi of the genus Sclerotium)- the reason for the low growth of plants and small leaves with sufficient soil fertility and good nutrition. It can only be found when the bulbs are dug up. The bulbs of the affected plants rot. The disease, the development of which is promoted by high humidity and acidity of the soil, manifests itself in foci. Weakly affected bulbs are kept in a solution of copper-containing preparations and transplanted to a new place. You can not thicken the planting.

Fitium, or root rot(mushrooms of the genus Phytium),- Plants are lagging behind in growth, the leaves become smaller, buds fall off or do not form, the tops of the leaves turn yellow. The bulb is healthy and the roots are covered with small brown spots. The development of the disease often occurs with waterlogging. Water the soil with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol, 8-10 liters per 1 sq. m. For prophylaxis, before planting, the bulbs are treated with fungicides.

Colorless small spots that appear on the leaves, which increase in size, turn yellow and dry out, are caused by rust (Uromyces lilii). Summer and autumn sporulation of yellow-orange or dark brown color, respectively, are formed under the epidermis in these places. To combat rust, diseased leaves are collected and destroyed, the plants are sprayed 2-3 times copper-containing preparations, are often fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

If the peduncles, flowers and bulbs rot and become covered with a green bloom in warm and humid weather, the plants are affected by penicillosis (fungi of the genus Penicillium). For spraying, use any fungicides containing zinc, copper or a solution of raspberry-colored potassium permanganate.

Bacterial or wet rot (Pectobacterium carotovorum, Pectobacterium aroidea) affects bulbs, leaves and peduncles. In early spring brown oval spots appear on the leaves, gradually turn yellow, then the leaves and peduncles rot. The disease develops due to waterlogging of the soil and excess nitrogen. During storage, unpleasant-smelling depressed spots appear on the scales of the bulbs, causing rotting. Such bulbs are immediately separated and destroyed. When a disease occurs during growth, lilies are sprayed with fungicides every ten days. Before planting, the bulbs are pickled with Fundazol or watered with it in the soil in the hole.

Viral diseases

Lily mosaic virus determined by pale green spots on young leaves and stripes along the leaf veins. Plant growth stops. Leaves, buds and flowers are deformed. Mosaic virus is transmitted by aphids and mechanically with the sap of diseased plants.

At rosette lilies (Lily rosette virus) the peduncle is deformed and takes the form of a rosette, since its growth is greatly delayed. Chlorotic leaves are deformed. Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses cause ring spots and streaks on the leaves. It is advisable not to plant lilies next to tulips and hosts in order to avoid infection with the variegation virus, the control measures for which have not yet been developed. All diseased plants are burned. Preventive measure is the destruction of aphids as a carrier of the disease. Orleans hybrids are more resistant to viral diseases.

Non-communicable diseases

Chlorosis- yellowing of the leaves between the veins is observed if the acidity of the soil is above normal - the soil is too alkaline.

Purple foliage associated with a lack of nutrition (due to rotting of the roots). It occurs on poorly drained soil in conditions of excessive moisture.

Deformation of leaves and curvature of stems(bulging and blistering) occurs when lilies are damaged spring frosts... Tubular hybrids are most susceptible to damage from low temperatures.

Fasciation- accretion of several stems into one in case of accidental damage to the growth point. This phenomenon is observed only when good care when lilies are able to release several shoots from one bulb. On next year a normal stem grows back.

It happens that a bulb planted according to all the rules in the first year does not germinate (asleep) and does not die, but next spring it sprouts.

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Caring for lilies after flowering consists in cutting and covering them for the winter or digging out the bulbs and their proper storage... At the beginning of autumn, an examination of the stems, leaves and bulbs is carried out.

If diseases are detected, flowers are treated. In order to prevent the appearance of diseases, the soil is enriched with fertilizers and regular feeding of lilies is carried out throughout the year.

At the end of summer, lilies, with their natural way of life, fade. The stem and leaves turn yellow and fall off, and some of the roots also die off. Garden lilies need to be prepared for winter.

Frost-resistant lilies are cut 15 cm from the root, sprinkled with a small layer of peat (up to 10 cm), covered with fallen leaves in the fall. Oriental lily hybrids do not tolerate excess moisture. To avoid getting the bulbs and roots wet during the spring thawing of snow, the plantings are covered with plastic wrap.

Tubular and Orleans hybrids, some other lilies do not tolerate cold winters in middle lane... Their bulbs must be dug up. All lilies require replanting every 3-5 years. Their tubers also need to be dug up and sent for storage.

When the lilies have been dug up, they should not be left in the sun. The bulbs are immediately removed to a cool place. If the roots of the bulb are dry, then the flower will not sprout during planting. If the roots lie under sunbeams for a short time, you need to cover them with wet rags and wait a while until they absorb the water.

Bulbs with roots extracted from the ground must be thoroughly rinsed and processed in a 0.2% solution of foundationol. To store the bulbs, you need to choose a container, often a plastic bag with a perforation made. The bulbs are wrapped in it without tying and stored all winter at a temperature of 5 ° C.

Treatment and prevention of lilies from diseases and pests after flowering

Lilies, like other flowers, are susceptible to various diseases. Caring for lilies after flowering includes their cure for dangerous diseases that a flower could get sick in the summer or already at the beginning of autumn. While the lily is growing in the garden, only the external manifestations of the disease can indicate the presence of ill health.

If you notice a strange pigmentation, any damage on the stem, leaves or flowers, by the fall, the bulbs of any kind of lily do not leave the ground. Depending on the symptoms of the disease after flowering, and sometimes without waiting for its end, treatment measures are taken.

Lily diseases to be treated after flowering:

Botrytis is a gray rot.

Fusarium is a bacterial soft rot.

Mosaic is a viral disease.

Botrytis - gray rot

The appearance of slightly noticeable spots of a yellow tint, spreading along the lower part of the sheets, is replaced by distinctly bright gray, fluffy spots on the texture. They gradually grow and cover the leaves completely, soon transferring to the stems and heads of flowers.

Wet weather allows fungal spores to completely line all parts of the lilies. As a result, the entire aerial part of the plant is affected. The leaves and stem are covered with brown spots and then fall off.

Prevention of gray mold carried out immediately after the flowering of lilies.

The fungus grows especially actively in a humid environment.

The most favorable environment is wet plants that do not have time to dry out until night and moist, cool air after rain. The wind easily spreads spores of fungi that cause gray rot.

From strong wind or hypothermia, lilies get stress, their immunity decreases, due to the leaves are easily affected by botrytis.

Heavy showers begin in the fall, at a time when the lilies are already fading. Many lilies are not dug out of the ground every year. Even when digging, you need to let the lilies stand a little without flowers so that the bulb grows stronger before the next planting. You can protect lilies from the fungus after flowering by adhering to traditional preventive methods.

Before the onset of the rainy season, you need to install a wooden or metal carcass- it is enough to drive in four pegs along the edges of the flower beds with lilies. Pull some plastic wrap over the pegs with a slight slope to one side. Falling precipitation will not accumulate on flowers and will not be able to provoke the appearance of a fungus. Do not use agrofibre as a shelter, it is water permeable. Themselves, if necessary, water the lilies only at the root in the morning.

If the plants are already sick, you need to immediately cut off the affected parts of the plant or the entire aerial part of it. Affected vegetation must be burned or otherwise disposed of. The main thing is that the fungus, the spores of which are always present on the affected plants, do not get into the ground. In the ground, he will wait out the winter, move to newly planted plants and destroy new sprouts of lilies or other plantings.

In case of disease, a white saliva-like mass will form on the tubers and roots. In the absence of treatment, aboveground and underground part plants are covered with sclerotia. Such plants can be saved from disease. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the tubers with roots. running water and soak them in a suspension of foundazol (0.5%) or TMTD pesticides (1%) for 20-30 minutes.

Fusarium - bacterial soft rot

If the bulbs are slightly damaged or the infection is not yet visible, but there are suspicions of its presence, sprinkle the bulbs with sulfur and coal in a 1: 1 ratio.

Soft rot occurs when the bulb is damaged. Most often it comes from improper storage. The best prevention is gentle handling when digging and packing the bulbs, storage in optimal temperature... Lily falls ill with fusarium if, after digging, it has not been thoroughly dried.

Bulbs and roots rot from heavy rainfall. Methods for preventing bulbs from high humidity on the street - the construction of a frame covered plastic wrap... Some hybrids of lilies, for example, Asiatic and LA hybrids, are dug up in the second decade of August, since it is very difficult to keep them from moisture.

Mosaic

On the edges of the lily leaves, oval, elongated, white, sometimes black spots with white streaks appear. Leaves and flowers grow skewed, crooked, flowers and buds have irregular shape, sometimes white streaks form on them. Soon the entire aerial part of the flower decays and dies off. The disease is caused by aphids, ticks and the entry of viruses into the lily sap into the stem through secateurs.

There is no cure for this disease, but preventive precautions must be taken. The lily stem is always cut before wintering, regardless of whether the bulb or roots are removed. To cut the stem, you need to use secateurs with replaceable metal blades, which must be changed after each flower is cut and disinfected in alcohol or boiling water.

Slightly but noticeably drooping, lethargic plants, even without characteristic spots on the leaves, may already be infected with a viral disease. At the slightest suspicion, you need to examine the plant very carefully, if not one of the symptoms is detected, it is advisable to dig up the bulb and soak it in phytosporin (4 drops per 200 ml).

Careful plant prophylaxis is necessary, as mites and aphids reproduce very quickly. In the spring, they quickly fly from one flower to another. Over the summer, more than half of all plants can get sick with a viral disease.

Top dressing and fertilizers for domestic lilies

The introduction of mineral fertilizers is useful for lilies. In the spring, fertilizing with the addition of nitrogen is used:

ammonium nitrate 1 tsp for 1 m²;

nitroammophoska 1 matchbox for a bucket of water.

Liquid complex fertilizers are suspensions or solutions containing 1-3 active ingredients. For example, superphosphate - 20 g per 10 liters of water; liquid potassium dressing - 15-20 g of potassium chloride or potassium salt per 10 liters of water, dry 15-25 g per 1 m².

In summer it is recommended:

wood ash 5-6 times per season;

infusion of mullein.

In the fall, nitrogen-free mineral fertilizers from a solution of 30-40 g of superphosphate, mix with 15-20 g of potassium salt.

Organic fertilizers for lilies are contraindicated. They do not bring benefits, but they cause the development of fungal diseases.

As a prophylaxis against diseases, domestic lilies should be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%) every 3 years.

Lilies are prepared for winter in two ways. Frost-resistant hybrids are cut, left in the ground and carefully covered with peat, leaves, and sometimes a film. Frost-intolerant, transplanting or diseased lilies are also pruned and dug up. Each dug out onion is carefully examined, if symptoms of the disease are detected, treatment is carried out, if necessary, burned. Bulbs must be handled with care to preserve planting material in a good condition.

For domestic lilies, you need to regularly introduce complementary foods, add fertilizers to the soil.

Proper care of lilies will help keep beautiful flowers in your garden and home for a long time.