As you know, this flower is one of the first to bloom in the garden at the beginning of the season and pleases gardeners with bright and unusually fragrant flowers. Hyacinths are striking in a wide range of colors: from white and pale yellow through different shades of pink and purple to burgundy, purple and even black. Hyacinth ( Hyacinthus) – universal plant suitable for open field, early forcing indoors and also for cutting. About the features of growing hyacinths - this article.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © Anastasia

Botanical description of the plant

The hyacinth bulb is dense, consisting of fleshy lower leaves, occupying with their bases the entire circumference of the bottom of the bulb. The flowering stem is a direct continuation of the bottom, which is nothing more than the lower, strongly shortened and thick part of the stem.

After the hyacinth blooms, the green flowering stem, along with the green leaves sitting with it at the very bottom, dries up, but in the corner of the uppermost of green leaves formed on the stem, inside the bulb, a bud, which gradually grows and turns into a young bulb that blooms on next year... In this young hyacinth bulb in the fall, a stem with flowers of the next year is already fully laid, of course, in its most compressed form.

In addition to this young bulb, other weaker bulbs, the so-called babies, are often formed in the corners of the remaining green leaves, which can be separated. In three years they can bloom.

Hyacinth flowers are collected at the top of the stem in the form of a brush. Their perianth, in the form of a bell-shaped funnel, is brightly colored and with bent lobes.

Fruit in the form of a leathery capsule with three nests, containing two seeds each with a fragile skin.

Choosing a place for hyacinths in the garden

The place for hyacinths should be well lit and protected from strong winds... Some growers recommend planting them, like other bulbs, next to shrubs and trees. This advice is hardly good. Yes, in spring there is enough sun, but the roots of trees and shrubs absorb nutrients from the soil to the detriment of hyacinths.

The area for hyacinths is preferable to be flat, preferably with a slight slope, providing water flow during spring melting of snow and during heavy rains. Prolonged flooding leads to massive diseases and death of bulbs. Groundwater should lie no closer than 50-60 cm. At a high level, drainage is done or fill ridges are arranged.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © Eszter Sara Kospal

Soil for hyacinths

Hyacinths need permeable, well-fertilized soils with a high content of humus, but fresh and weakly decomposed manure is unacceptable. Add to clay, dense soil river sand and peat. It is undesirable to grow hyacinths on acidic soils. Acidic soils must be limed using chalk or limestone to a pH of at least 6.5.

Planting hyacinths

Experts advise preparing the site for planting hyacinths in August, two months before planting the bulbs, otherwise the natural sediment of the soil can cause the roots to break off, which will begin to develop in the fall.

The soil must be deeply cultivated, to a depth of 40 cm. For digging, humus or rotted manure is introduced at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m2, sand, peat and mineral fertilizers: 60-80 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate and 15 g of magnesium sulfate.

Potassium sulfate can be replaced 200 g wood ash, and magnesium sulfate - 250 g of dolomite flour. On sandy soils, the doses of potash and magnesium fertilizers should be increased by 1.5 times. As for nitrogen fertilizers, it is best to apply them in the spring summer period in the form of dressings.

In conditions middle lane Russian hyacinth bulbs are planted in late September - early October. If too early landing hyacinths can start growing and die in winter, and with a very late planting, they will not have time to take root until the soil freezes to the depth of planting.

When planting hyacinths, D. G. Hession recommends, in addition to observing the depth and density of planting, to remember two things: first, to choose for planting not the largest bulbs that are intended for distillation, but medium-sized bulbs, the so-called "flower beds", giving flower stalks more resistant to bad weather; secondly, it is necessary to add well-rotted compost or peat to the holes during planting, if it was not added during preliminary digging of the soil.

However, hyacinths can be planted until the first half of November. But then the place should be insulated in advance with leaves or other material from those that are at hand, and protected with a film from rain and snow. And after planting, re-lay the insulation.

The feeding area of ​​hyacinth bulbs is 15x20 cm. The planting depth from the bottom of the bulbs is 15-18 cm for collapsible, large bulbs, with a diameter of about 5 cm. Small bulbs and children are planted denser and not so deep.

For hyacinths, as for all bulbous plants, it is very desirable to plant in a "sand jacket".

At the same time, the technology does not change: clean river sand is poured into the bottom of the groove or hole with a layer of 3-5 cm. The bulb is slightly pressed into it, then covered with sand, and then with soil. This technique will eliminate rotting of the bottoms of the bulbs, protect against infection in the soil, and improve drainage. If the soil is dry, the planting should be watered to improve the rooting of the bulbs.

Hyacinth eastern "Atlantic" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Atlantic’). © Villu Lükk Oriental hyacinth "Red Magic" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Red Magic’). © Villu Lükk Carnegie oriental hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Carnegie’). © Villu Lükk

If there are a lot of hyacinths, they are planted on ridges 15-20 cm high to protect the bulbs from melt water... In the spring, the ridges quickly warm up, they have good aeration of the upper layer. In addition, it is easy to install a film cover on the ridges. They are planted in rows at a distance of 20-25 cm, at least 3 bulb diameters are left between adjacent bulbs in a row (for adult bulbs -12-15 cm).

With the onset of persistent cold weather, it is advisable to think about sheltering the plantings of hyacinths. To do this, you can use mulching materials such as dry peat, humus, sawdust, as well as dry fallen leaves and spruce branches, and in the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the shelter must be carefully removed, since hyacinth sprouts appear very early.

Hyacinth care

Hyacinths are a demanding culture. The soil around the plantings must be kept in a clean state, loosened several times during the season, in dry times it is necessary to water it (water must soak the earthen lump to a depth of 15-20 cm). During the growing season, plants should be fed 2-3 times. Important preventive measure is the removal of diseased plants from the site (culling is carried out 2-3 times). The peduncle must be cut off with a sharp knife; if the inflorescence is not cut off, then at the end of flowering it is necessary to cut off the flowers, leaving the peduncle.

Fertilizers for hyacinths can be applied dry or dissolved in water. In the latter case, fertilizers are taken slightly less, and the soil is well moistened before fertilization. The first feeding should be given at the beginning of plant growth (20-25 g of nitrate and 15-20 g of superphosphate per square meter landings). 2nd - during the budding period (30-35 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate). 3rd - at the end of flowering (30-35 g of superphosphate and 30-35 g of potassium sulfate). Hyacinths can be fed with micronutrient fertilizers (apply them in the same quantities as for tulips). After fertilization, the soil is loosened, covering the fertilizer with a hoe.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © Choo Yut Shing

Hyacinths after flowering

If the bulbs of Dutch hyacinths are left after flowering in open ground, bloom in the second year, they will be worse. Therefore, it is better to wait until the leaves of the hyacinths turn yellow and dig up the bulbs.

The famous Russian florist A. Razin noted that the end of June-beginning of July is the best time to dig up hyacinths. Despite the troubles, the florist believed that one of the conditions successful cultivation hyacinths is the annual digging of the bulbs. It allows you to inspect the bulbs, separate the babies for growing, process the bulbs in order to prevent diseases and protect them from pests, and destroy diseased specimens. A. Razin dug up the bulbs, washed them clean water, and then dried under a canopy in the shade. The florist put the bulbs dug, dried and peeled from leaves and roots for storage.

Storing hyacinth bulbs

Storing the dug out bulbs is the most crucial period. It is at this time that the process of inflorescence formation takes place in the bulb. Its various stages require different temperatures in a certain duration and sequence. Excavated hyacinths are more heat-demanding than tulips or daffodils.

Immediately after digging, the hyacinth bulbs are dried for 5-7 days at 20 ° C in a dark, ventilated room, cleaned of soil and root residues, then sorted by size and placed in boxes in no more than 2 layers. Small children are not separated.

If there are few bulbs, it is convenient to store them in paper bags with labels. Further storage of large flowering hyacinth bulbs is recommended in 2 stages: the first - at elevated temperatures, the second - pre-planting.

At the first stage, hyacinth bulbs contain at least 2 months at 25..26 ° С, and in the second - 1 month at 17 ° С. The humidity in the room should not be too low, otherwise the bulbs will dry out. If you want to shorten the first stage by a week, then in the first week of the first stage, raise the temperature to 30 ° C (the room must be well ventilated).

It is easy to calculate that the total duration of the preparatory period is at least 95 days. Plus, before planting, it is useful to hold hyacinth bulbs in a cold room at temperatures close to outside. So it turns out that the bulbs, in order to plant them in the ground in the first decade of October, must be dug out later than the beginning of July. Late digging and storage of bulbs at too low temperatures are the main reasons for the further poor flowering of hyacinths.

Often during the storage period, numerous small children form around the bottom of the hyacinth bulbs. They break off easily, and therefore bulbs with babies should be planted especially carefully in the ground. In this case, the planting depth must be halved and it is imperative to cover the planted bulbs with a layer of mulch, increasing it compared to a conventional shelter. Such children grow up for 4-5 years. It is very simple to cause their formation: immediately after digging, wipe the bottom of the bulb firmly with a dry cloth, removing the roots.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © Carl Lewis

Reproduction of hyacinths

When breeding new varieties of hyacinths, the seed method is used. Seedlings do not repeat the external features of the parent plants. They bloom only after 5-7 years. Seeds are sown in autumn, at the end of September, in boxes of soil made up of humus, leafy soil and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, and grown for the first 2 years in cold greenhouses.

Natural reproduction of hyacinths is slow. For a year, an adult bulb, depending on the variety, forms 1-2 children, rarely 3 or 4, and even less often their number can reach 5-8.

If the hyacinth babies are well separated from the mother bulb, they are grown separately. If the babies are separated poorly, the daughter bulbs do not break off and the mother bulb with the babies is planted.

In industrial floriculture, hyacinths are not propagated by natural division, but an artificial method of propagation is practiced. To quickly obtain a large number of bulbs, they resort to special methods of forced reproduction of hyacinths.

Since the scale-like leaves of the scarious bulbs are very large, cover almost the entire bulb and are not as easily separated from the base as the scales of the tiled bulbs, until new plants form, the incised scale-like leaves of the scarious bulbs should be left undivided from the bottom.

This principle is used in two propagation methods by preparing the bulbs: cutting and notching the bottom. True, in this case, the bulbs are first injured, and then slowly die.

Bulbs of hyacinths intended for artificial propagation must be pre-treated: they are disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, and then dried for at least 2 days at a temperature of +20 .. + 23 ºС.

F. McMillan Browse in his book "Plant Reproduction" describes in detail both methods of forced reproduction of hyacinths.

Hyacinth bulb with children formed on the bottom. © salchuiwt

Cutting out the bottom of the hyacinth bulbs

This operation is carried out at the end of the dormant period of the bulbs. To successfully cut the bottom, minimally damaging the bulb, you should choose a tool. It is best to use a teaspoon with a sharp edge for this, with which the bottom is cut out. The remainder of the hyacinth bulb is left intact and then it is checked to see if the bases of all scale-like leaves have been removed. You can do this with a knife, but it can easily damage the center of the bulb.

To reduce the likelihood of disease occurrence, the surface of the scaly leaf cuts is treated with a fungicide. The bulbs are placed in boxes upside down. They can also be stored on a wire mesh or dry sand tray.

To cause the formation of callus at the base of the scales and to delay the possible spread of diseases, the bulbs are kept at a temperature not lower than + 21 ° C. After about two to three months, young bulbs are formed on the cuts of the scales. On one bulb of hyacinths, 20-40 babies can form.

The mother's bulb in the same inverted position is planted in a pot so that the babies are slightly covered with the substrate. Plants are hardened and then kept in a cold greenhouse. In the spring, the bulbs will start to grow and form leaves, and the old bulb will gradually collapse. At the end of the growing season, young bulbs are dug up, separated and planted for growing. Young plants can bloom in 3-4 years.

Cutting the bottom of the hyacinth bulbs

Hyacinths can be propagated faster if you use a method similar to the previous one. The only difference is that instead of cutting out the bottom, only a few cuts up to 0.6 cm deep are made on the lower part of the bulb.

On a large hyacinth bulb, 4 cuts are usually made at right angles to each other (two intersecting cruciform), and on smaller ones, it is enough to make 2 cuts. In this case, the number of formed bulbs decreases, but they are larger.

Hyacinth bulbs are pre-disinfected in the same way as when cutting the bottom. The cut bulbs are placed for a day in a dry, warm place (+ 21 ° C): under these conditions, the cuts open better. When the incisions are open, they are treated with a fungicide.

The subsequent operations and storage conditions of the bulbs are the same as in the previous method. As a result, 8-15 bulbs are formed, which will take 2-3 years to grow. Cutting and notching the bottom is used not only for the reproduction of hyacinths. These methods are also used in the cultivation of daffodils, snowdrops, muskars, woodlands, white flowers.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © el islandes

Diseases and pests of hyacinths

In the open field in the middle lane, hyacinths hardly suffer from diseases and pests. More dangers lie in wait for them in greenhouses and during forcing. If, nevertheless, hyacinths get sick in a flower garden, most often this is caused by:

1. Acquisition of already infected material;
2. Planting on heavy acidic waterlogged soil;
3. The use of fresh manure or an excess of mineral fertilizers;
4. Planting after unfavorable predecessors (other bulbous, as well as root crops);
5. Bulbs were not culled during the growing season, after digging, during storage and before planting;
6. They forgot about prevention (dressing of bulbs, and during forcing - and soil);
7. The plantings were thickened.

When damaged by pests, hyacinths lag behind in growth, their peduncles are curved, there is early yellowing and wilting. For prophylaxis, the bulbs are etched in one of the phosphorus-containing preparations for 15-20 minutes before planting. Sick hyacinths are dug up and destroyed, and the rest are also treated with phosphorus-containing preparations.

Of the diseases, yellow bacterial rot is most common. With it, the tissues of the bulb turn into mucus with a sharp unpleasant odor... During the growing season, the disease can be detected by stunting, the appearance of stripes and spots on the peduncle and leaves, and their decay. The bulbs show clear signs of damage. In all cases, diseased plants and bulbs are destroyed (it is best to burn). The fossa is etched with 5% formalin or bleach, where hyacinths can be returned only after a few years.

In hyacinths, the phenomenon of inflorescence loss is often found: the inflorescence, having barely appeared above the ground, falls out of the rosette of leaves. This phenomenon is not associated with a disease of the plant, but is explained by physiological reasons - an increase in root pressure. It is caused by excess moisture in the soil, storage of bulbs at insufficient temperatures, and early planting of bulbs.

Types of hyacinths

There are different views on the taxonomy of the genus. According to some researchers, it has up to 30 species, while others consider it to be monotypic, i.e. with one kind, but which has a large number of varieties and shapes. Hyacinth grows wildly in the countries of the Eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © Pascal Kestemont

On my own behalf, I will add a beautiful legend that is associated with the name of the flower. It comes from the name of the hero of Greek mythology - a beautiful young man named Hyakintos (or Hyakinth from Amycles), in whom the sun god Apollo was in love.

Once, during training in discus throwing, the jealous god of the West Wind Zephyr, who was also in love with Hyakinthos, mortally wounded the young man. In the place of the shed blood of Hyakinthos grew charming flower, which Apollo named after his deceased loved one.

Graceful hyacinths delight the eye on flower beds and in a bouquet, and with the arrival of spring - on the windowsill. Forcing will require deep knowledge of the planting material, otherwise it will be difficult to wait for flowering. It is important to prepare well the planting material for open ground, properly dig up and save the bulbs.

Hyacinth is a beautiful bulbous perennial. A dense or loose apical raceme consists of a large number of simple or double flowers. Modern hybrids are distinguished by large inflorescences of various shades.

For outdoor cultivation

• "Anna Lisa". An early variety with purple inflorescences that do not fade for almost three weeks.
• Carnegie. Snow-white hyacinth with a loose conical inflorescence.
• "Miosotis". An early variety with fragrant light blue buds.
• "Grand Blanche". Peduncle up to 20 cm high, corollas are white, large.
• "Gertrude". Late hyacinth with deep pink flowers.
• Red Magic. Hyacinth with large bright pink inflorescences.
• Anna Marie. A variety with a pale pink color of the petals.

Indoor varieties

This group usually includes the same varieties that are grown outdoors and are suitable for forcing indoors. Early dates receiving blooming specimens timed to Christmas. Bulbs of the varieties "Anna Marie", "Marconi", "Delft Blue" are used. Later hyacinths bloom from January to March 8, some until April. Mainly used varieties "Anna Lisa", "Woodstock".

Planting hyacinths in open ground

Experts recommend preparing the place in advance. A few weeks before the scheduled date, they dig deep into the soil. They bring in sand, some peat and humus. It is advisable to add superphosphates, potassium and magnesium sulfates.

In the central part of the country, hyacinths are planted in gardens from mid to late autumn. It is important that they do not grow ahead of schedule.

Experienced "hyacinth growers" warn novice growers about the rules for choosing corms. The largest of them go for distillation, and smaller specimens are better suited for growing in gardens. They give well-developed peduncles, which are also more resistant to difficult weather conditions.

Each plant needs a 15x20 cm feeding area.

1. The bottom is deepened 15 centimeters into the ground. Small bulbs and children can be planted denser, closer to the surface.
2. Washed sand (preferably river sand) is distributed along the bottom of the prepared groove, into which the bottom is slightly pressed.
3. A "shirt" of sand is created around the bulb, then the groove is filled with soil.
4. The dry ground is watered. The sandy "shirt" serves as a drainage layer and protects against infection.

You can plant flowers on ridges to quickly warm the bulbs in spring and raise them above the melt water level. Plant specimens of culture, keeping a distance of 20 cm between them.If necessary, the ridges are covered with a film.

Shelter will also be needed in the fall. Mulching substrates are used, such as peat, humus, wood shavings... You can cover with spruce branches or dry foliage collected in the garden, park. Carefully remove the mulching materials in the spring when the ground thaws.

How to care for flowers in the garden

The flowers in question are not capricious, but quite demanding. There should be no weeds, dry leaves, fallen flowers around the plants. Loosening is carried out 2 - 3 times during the warm season. It is recommended to irrigate during the drought period and combine them with fertilizing containing nitrogen.

After the hyacinths have faded, the "column" is cut off with a sharp knife. You can leave the peduncle by cutting off only the drying corollas from it. Thanks to this simple procedure, it is possible to obtain larger and more mature bulbs. It is important to remove affected and diseased plants in a timely manner, preventing the spread of infection.

When to dig up and how to store hyacinth bulbs

The bulbs of Dutch hyacinths are dug up after the leaves have flowered and yellowed. Best time for this important event - at the beginning of July.

• The babies are immediately separated for rearing.
• Healthy bulbs are treated to prevent disease.
• Damaged, infected material is destroyed.

The process of laying the future inflorescence begins almost immediately after the death of the ground part or even earlier. Experienced flower growers and breeders recommend rinsing the bulbs after digging running water... Dry them in the air in the shade of a tree or under a canopy for 5 - 7 days at 20 ° C.

Store clean, well-dried, sized hyacinth bulbs.

1. Place the material in flat boxes in one or two layers.
2. If the bulbs are few, then they are stored in paper bags with labels indicating the variety.
3. For the first two months, the bulbs are kept at an elevated temperature (25 - 26 ° C).
4. The second stage of storage provides for cooler conditions (17 ° C).
5. Do not allow complete drying or waterlogging of the bulbs.

The total storage time for the bulbs is 3 months. Immediately before planting hyacinths, a kind of hardening is carried out. For this purpose, the bulbs are stored in a cool room until the end of September - early October. With a delay and too low temperatures at the first stage, hyacinths give short, loose inflorescences.

Growing and caring at home

For forcing hyacinths on the windowsill, you will need pots or containers filled with a substrate (take equal parts of sod land, peat and coarse sand). Drainage must be done at the bottom of each container. For this purpose, put gravel, expanded clay or large pebbles with a layer of 1.5 cm. Sprinkle with coarse washed sand on top, then add the prepared substrate and water it.

Planting of hyacinths begins in November.

1. Bulbs large size pressed into the substrate with the bottom.
2. Sprinkle with soil so that the uppermost part remains open.
3. The soil is compacted around the bulb, watered abundantly, but without stagnation of water. The top of the bulb, when properly planted, should protrude 1.5 cm above the substrate, but not above the level of the edges of the pot or container.
4. From above, the hyacinths are covered with paper cups, under which the formation of the root system and buds will take place in the dark.
5. Containers with bulbs are sent for 6 to 7 weeks in a cool, unlit room.

For off-season storage and preparation of hyacinths for forcing, you can use the basement. Or dig in containers with bulbs in a greenhouse, cover suitable material... Other options are suggested by the experience of flower growers, the ingenuity of summer residents and lovers of indoor plants.

The soil in the container should be moist, but not waterlogged. Temperatures from 6 to 9 ° C are most favorable for forcing. If it is warm at home, the roots grow more slowly in the pot, the development of peduncles is delayed.

After rooting, cone-shaped hyacinth sprouts appear above the soil. When the shoots reach a height of 8-10 cm, the containers with the bulbs are transferred to a warmer place. Gradually accustom the flower to bright light, removing the paper cups for several hours. Then the shelter is completely removed and the plants begin to water more abundantly.

Hyacinth flowers bloom 3 weeks after they receive enough light and moisture. The quality of the flower stalks, the time of blooming in winter or spring depends on the planting material, as well as on the conditions during the dormant period of the bulbs and during forcing.

Plant propagation methods

Seed and vegetative propagation is used. The first method is practiced mainly by breeders. Plants obtained from seeds do not inherit the varietal characteristics of the parental form; they bloom after 6 or 7 years.

Vegetative propagation is easier to carry out. Every year, babies grow from the mother's bulb (1 - 8 pieces), which need to be planted and grown. Small bulbs will bloom only after 4 - 5 years. In nurseries, artificial propagation of hyacinths by cutting the bottom is still practiced. The method is complex, but it allows you to get a sufficient amount of planting material.

Protection against diseases and pests

Hyacinths are little affected by various pathogens and harmful insects in the open field. In the forcing room and in greenhouses, so-called nursing diseases can spread. Hyacinths do not tolerate acidification and waterlogging of the soil, they bloom poorly with an excess amount of manure or nitrogen fertilizers, thickened plantings.

Should only be purchased quality material, pickle the bulbs after digging and before planting. Subject to all requirements, hyacinths rarely get sick.

Foreword

Hyacinth - beautiful plant with a wonderful aroma. It can be a decoration for your site, but for this, planting hyacinths in the spring should be done according to all the rules. We asked seasoned gardeners, and they shared their secrets with us.

Required tools

Sand

The area where you will be planting should be calm and well lit. If there is not enough space on the site, you can plant plants near trees, however, it should be borne in mind that they may not have enough sunlight. In addition, you will have to feed the hyacinths more often, because the trees will "pull" nutrients onto themselves. You can plant them on small slopes, because the accumulation of water in the ground can lead to the appearance of a fungus, which will be quite difficult to remove.

However, if you plant the bulbs of plants in transparent containers for the winter, you can carry out work in the spring, the main thing is that very coldy.

So that the rains do not wash away the harvested soil, the soil must be covered before planting, using leaves or thin plywood sheets. At the same time, the flower bulbs should be healthy, of medium size - this will make the flowers more resistant and susceptible to bad weather conditions. Plant bulbs of plants to a depth of about 15 cm; if the planting of hyacinths in the spring takes place in a row, there should be a distance of 20 cm between them. Bulbs smaller than 5 cm in diameter are planted denser.

We pour river sand into each hole with a layer of about 3 cm, after which we lay the bulbs and sprinkle with soil. In this case, the sand will act as protection against waterlogging and the appearance of infections. In the event that the planting of hyacinths in the spring will be carried out in a large number then the best thing to do is high beds, because then caring for the plant will become much more convenient and faster. If a cold snap is planned, be sure to cover the plants with sawdust or peat.

Top dressing is just as important as planting hyacinths in spring, because plant bulbs need a lot nutrients for normal development. First of all, these are mineral fertilizers, which are applied as soon as the snow melts. The best and most effective are potassium chloride and ammonium nitrate.

After the buds appear, a second feeding is carried out with the help of mineral nutrients. For the third time, only potassium chloride is added. At the same time, with each introduction of nutrients, it is imperative to loosen the soil, so you give the root system of the flower the air it needs. Important Care Tips:

• It is important to loosen the soil with a rake and remove the first weeds that appear, which can destroy the hyacinths;
• Flowers are watered abundantly, to a depth of 20 cm, but not too often;
• When painful plants appear, they must be removed and burned, otherwise diseases and pests can move to other plants.

Improper care can lead to negative consequences... So, for example, a lack of sunlight and excessive watering leads to the yellowness of the leaves, their elongation. If water gets on the buds, they may simply not open. There may also be problems with the lack of buds. This can be due to several reasons: from-for planting small bulbs, due to their improper maintenance before planting(for example, too heat and humidity).

Most often, hyacinths are affected by bacterial rot, due to which the bulbs eventually turn into mucus with an unpleasant odor. Unfortunately, there is no point in dealing with this problem. Therefore, they should simply be dug up and burned, and the hole where the plants were planted must be etched with bleach or 5% formalin solution.

In culture, varieties of hyacinth are grown (Hyacinthus orientalis)... In nature, it grows in Greece and Asia Minor, where it blooms in the earliest spring. Its culture in Europe has become popular since the 15th century, and today the total number of varieties is in the thousands, new ones are received every year.

Hyacinth bulbs

The bulb is perennial, capable of fully blooming for 10 or more years, then the flowering weakens and it is replaced. Due to their southern origin, they are thermophilic, they bloom at home in late winter - early spring. Then the aerial part dies off, and the bulb "rests" for almost six months in the soil heated by the hot southern sun. During this period of external dormancy, the buds of the shoot and daughter bulbs are formed inside the bulb. In the conditions of the middle lane, for the normal formation of vegetative organs and inflorescences of the next year, the bulbs must be dug up annually and kept until autumn at a certain temperature conditions... Without this, in the second year, flowering will weaken, and then it will completely disappear.

Maximum dimensions adult bulbs are usually 4 to 6 cm long, depending on the cultivar. Terry and yellow bulbs are generally smaller. When buying, choose strong, firm to the touch, the correct round shape and no damage. The bottom should be dry and slightly concave, integumentary scales - intact, with a silky sheen. An important indicator quality is the ratio of the diameter of the bottom to the diameter of the bulb itself: if it is 1: 1.6 or more, everything is in order. Older and poorly grown bulbs have a smaller stem diameter in relation to the diameter of the bulb.

An interesting feature of hyacinth bulbs is the coloration of the bulb's covering scales. Bulb varieties with blue, blue and purple flowers usually have purple outer scales, with white ones - light gray, and with pink ones - lilac, but sometimes there are exceptions.

In addition, each group of varieties usually corresponds to a certain shape of the bulbs: wide-conical ones are usually typical for varieties with blue and pink flowers, narrow-conical ones - for varieties with yellow flowers, ovoid - for varieties with white flowers, but there are exceptions.

Planting time of hyacinths

In the conditions of central Russia, the bulbs are planted when the temperature reaches about +8 ° C. This is usually the second half of October.

Preparing a site for planting hyacinths

The soil is suitable for neutral, light, breathable, treated to a depth of at least 40 cm (two bayonets of a shovel): the roots of the hyacinth are long, this must be taken into account when preparing the landing site. In addition, hyacinths do not like acidic soil.

Before planting, it is recommended to introduce well-decomposed organic matter (humus) in advance (about a month). Under hyacinths, as well as under other bulbous, fresh manure is not allowed. You should not plant hyacinths not only after other bulbous crops, but also after potatoes, tomatoes, dahlias: these plants have diseases in common with hyacinths.

Planting hyacinths

Planting depth from the bottom of the bulbs - 15-18 cm for large bulbs, with a diameter of about 5 cm. That is, like all bulbs, hyacinths are planted according to the “rule of three”.

For hyacinths, as well as for all bulbous, it is desirable to plant in a "sand jacket": on the bottom of the groove or hole, pour clean river sand with the addition of ash in a layer of 3-5 cm. Lightly press the bulb into it, then cover it with sand, on top - with soil.

This technique will eliminate rotting of the bulbs and protect them from infections. If the ground is dry, water the plantings.

Spring hyacinth care

With the onset of stable cold weather, cover the place with the planted hyacinths. To do this, you can use dry peat, humus, dry fallen leaves or spruce branches. In the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, remove the shelter, as hyacinths sprout very early. For late planting (October - November), warm the place in advance and after planting the bulbs, put back the removed covering material.

In the spring, at the beginning of the growing season and when buds appear, the plants are fed with a full mineral fertilizer... In dry weather, watered regularly.

In case of frost, it is advisable to cover the hyacinths with one layer of lutrasil.

Watch out for sprouted bulbs: dig out diseased plants and bulbs that have not sprouted. You can understand which bulbs need to be removed when several leaves appear: you can easily spot empty spots or see signs of disease on fresh leaves. Watering the hyacinths must be finished immediately after flowering, the bulbs are most afraid of locking.

Digging hyacinths

It is best to dig up hyacinths in late June - early July, when the leaves turn yellow. Carefully peel the dug out bulbs from the ground, cut off the leaves and dry for 2-3 days. For drying, a dry, ventilated room with a stable temperature is suitable. Then clean from excess scales, roots, growths on the bottom, separate large children and put them in storage.

The total storage time is about 95 days. Of these, it is advisable to store the bulbs at a temperature of +25 ... + 28 ° С for 2 months, then a month at +17 ° С. The humidity in the room where the bulbs are stored should not be too low so that they do not dry out.

To maintain moisture, you can spray the bulbs with water from time to time.

During storage, they are periodically examined, the diseased are immediately destroyed.

Forcing hyacinths

Only large, healthy bulbs of hyacinths that have passed the summer dormant period are suitable for forcing.

In October, plant the bulbs in pots with light, fertile soil so that about a third of the bulb's height is above ground level. Water. Keep the pots at +5 ... + 10 ° С in a dark place for 3 months - the higher the temperature, the longer. When flower stalks appear and grow a little, pots with hyacinths are brought inside the room.

Train your plants to light gradually. The lower the room temperature, the longer the plant will bloom. When the plant has faded, gradually reduce the watering, and when the leaves are completely yellow, dig up the bulb, remove the roots and old scales, and plant it in the garden in the fall. The onion is no longer suitable for distillation the second time.

Hyacinth - rain flower: forcing hyacinth in water

Rain flower - this is how hyacinth is called due to its ability to grow and bloom in ordinary water. Specials are on sale glass vases with a narrow isthmus in the neck, intended for distillation.

Pour into a vase plain water so that it does not reach the onion 1-2 cm.The vessel with the onion is wrapped in paper and placed in the refrigerator, and after two months they take it out and then proceed in the same way as in usual case... During the entire time the vessel is in the refrigerator, do not forget to periodically add water.

Popular varieties of hyacinths

The number of varieties of hyacinths is in the thousands, they differ in the height of the peduncle, the size of the inflorescences, color and flowering time (early, middle and late). However, the varieties differ little in height, flowering time and size. Therefore, the main feature for choosing hyacinths is the shade of the inflorescence.

White hyacinths

Aiolos, Edelweiss, Arentine Arendsen, Antarctica, Avalanche, Carnegie, l'Innocence, Louvre, Madame Sophie(terry), Polar Giant, Top White, White King.

Pink hyacinths

Anna marie , Anna Liza, Apricot Passion, Apricot Star, Bestseller, China Pink, Double Eros(terry), Fondant, Freestyler, Ibis, Lady Derby, Marconi, Pink Pearl, Prince of Love(terry) , Prince Rose.

Purple and crimson hyacinths

Jan Bos, Miss Saigon, Purple Star, Purple Voice, Splendid Cornelia, Showmaster, Woodstock.

Blue and lilac hyacinths

All Star, Aqua, Blue Giant, Blue Tango(terry), Blue Eyes, Delft Blue, Caribbean Dream, City of Bradford, Chicago, General Kohler(terry), Fresco, Koh-I-Noor, Top Hit, Sky Jacket.

Purple hyacinths

Atlantic, Aida, Blue Troph, Dark Dimension(almost black), Discovery, Manhattan(terry), Ocean Delight, Pacific Ocean, Purple Sensation.

Yellow hyacinths

City of Haarlem, Gipsy Princess, Yellow Queen.

There are novelties: super-double orange hyacinths, as well as "multicolor" varieties, the color of each flower of which consists of several flowers. Such varieties have already been presented at exhibitions in Holland.

Aroma of hyacinths

Hyacinths have a very strong aroma; they are actively used in the cosmetic and perfumery industries. This component is considered to be an indicator of a perfume belonging to the upper class. A delicate and resonant aroma is most often used when creating compositions of the floral and oriental class. Some researchers claim that the smell of hyacinth helps relieve stress and enhance performance. Dried hyacinth petals are placed in linen bags and put the bed linen in the closet with them - it keeps fresh for a long time.

Illustrations to the material: Shutterstock / TASS, Olga Petina