Since ancient times, people have dreamed. The first attempts to assemble a mechanical device capable of replacing and surpassing fans and fans were made in the 16th century. In the 19th century, a device was invented, thanks to the rotating impeller of which the air moved, bringing a feeling of coolness. The impeller was set in motion by the pressure of water, which was fed through a pipe or hose. There was an attempt to use a steam engine for these purposes.

But the widespread distribution of such devices became possible only thanks to Thomas Edison: with the advent of electric motor the fan has evolved from an inefficient and cumbersome structure to an extremely useful device creating a comfortable environment.

Since that time, hundreds of models have been created that fully meet the various requirements set.

The types used in everyday life include floor, table and. Next, we will analyze the issues related to installing the latest version.

One of the advantages of fans over split systems, in addition to cost effectiveness, is the ease of installation, which can be carried out without the involvement of specialists.

The installation of the "ceiling" is a little more difficult than the installation of a conventional chandelier. Therefore, if you have minimal execution skills, you can proceed to self-fixing and connecting the device.

Ceiling fans are distinguished by material of manufacture, diameter, number and size of blades, power, design and other parameters.

As a rule, all modern models equipped with a luminaire, and a luminaire, a separate fan, or all together can work.

Ceiling height and room size - essential criteria for selection. The distance between the floor and the blades should not be less than two meters thirty centimeters - such standards are adopted in order to prevent injury from rotating elements.

The traditional and best location for the instrument is in the center of the room. If the room is small, the airflow generated by a single fan will be able to provide. In the case of a large room area, it may be necessary to install two or more "ceiling".

In some cases, it is required to draw a separate line from the shield to the installation site - if it is not able to withstand the load from the engine and lamps turned on at the same time.

Before starting work, be sure to turn off the electricity. Then you should check the presence of a phase using the indicator - you should not neglect this simple operation, especially since it will not take much time for it.

At the first stage, in addition to turning off the power supply, it is performed. If you plan to install the fan in place of the old chandelier, then the next step is to dismantle the lighting fixture.

In most cases, it will also be necessary to replace the ceiling electric box, which, as a rule, is designed for the weight of the chandelier alone. A special block is installed instead of the box.

Next, you need to assemble the structure according to the manufacturer's instructions. Let's clarify right away that in some models the blades and the lamp are screwed on the ceiling after the rod is fixed. In most cases, however, the fan is completely assembled at the bottom.

The blades to the rod with an electric motor must be screwed as securely as possible, the lamp is fixed efficiently, but carefully so as not to damage the elements.

The connection wires are pulled out through the center hole.

Do not forget to close it with a shade. Now the assembled device must be securely fixed to the ceiling.

• on concrete base the device is fixed with dowels, mounting brackets with screws;
• if the ceilings are suspended or slatted, the fixing elements are located on the main ceiling. This approach can be easily explained: the significant weight of the "ceiling", reaching more than 20 kilograms, requires high-quality fixing. In addition, it is necessary to provide a gap between and the fasteners so that during engine operation, vibration is not transmitted to the stretched material of the decorative ceiling, and does not create noise.

It is necessary to connect the wires of the fan and wires of the ceiling electric box in the sequence indicated in the instructions, since the manufacturers use different color coding.

The fan is usually fixed on a bracket, to the terminal block of which the power supply with grounding is supplied, and then the control unit is connected to the connectors.

After all the connections are completed, we proceed to the last phase: we fix the cover, which will give the entire structure aesthetics and completeness.

Purchase FAN BOX in a household or electrical store. Better to buy an “old style” (not new style) box if you don't have access to the ceiling from above. There are two types of boxes of the old design: the first is a fan that encloses an existing beam; it is easier to place it, but here it is required to “find” the beam, and not to “go around” it. The second type is on an adjustable hinge that can be extended between two beams, which is more difficult to do, but gives more location options. Both types of designs work equally well.

After you determine where to install the fan, "check if you have access to power." Check out the section below for some tips about the power supply. Adjust the location as you need. Then cut a hole there with a drywall saw; it should be just the right size so that you can freely stick your fingers in and check if there are any obstacles to the box. Such a small hole is easier to patch if the location is inappropriate.

If there are no obstacles (wires, pipes, pieces of fittings, etc.) then sketch out the fan box on the ceiling where it will be installed and cut a hole through it with a saw.

If the installation is carried out in a kitchen or dining room, then the existing power supply of your choice may contain wires of a larger cross-section, # 12. Regardless of the location, if your power supply is with # 12 wires, you need to use # 12-2 or # 12-3 instead of # 14-2 or # 14-3 where indicated by the icon below * " (General rule – never do not connect wires with different cross-sections together).

Remove wire # 14-2 * or # 14-3 * from the junction box, where BOTH and # 14 * 120 Volt hot wire AND zero to the fan are disconnected. If your fan is remote controlled, it can be powered directly from a 120 volt outlet. But it will be better if you install and connect a new one. junction box outside - so that she turns on the fan. If you ever decide to remove it and replace it with a chandelier, there will be a ready-made switch on the wall.

Wire # 14-2 * is used if you want: a) turn on / off the fan and lighting (if possible) with one switch; b) turn on / off the fan and / or light with the remote control, which is included with the fan or purchased separately.

Wire No. 14-3 * is needed for: c) turn on the fan independently of the lighting with two switches in one box.

Wire No. 14-3 * provides the possibility of connection options a, b or c with the greatest flexibility at a low cost.

Use suitable connectors where needed, route the wires in the fan casing through the inlets.

Reinforce the fan junction box according to the manufacturer's instructions. All fans vibrate during operation. Your mount must withstand this constant impact, which is why the NEC (National Electrical Code) mandates the mandatory use of fan boxes. Many people were injured due to installation flaws before the changes were made from NEC. The use of dedicated fan boxes greatly reduces this risk.

Determine if you need a special mount. When angled to the ceiling, some fans require a special sloped mount, which may or may not be included. Most fans have a universal mount that fits both horizontal and tilted positions. Choose what works best for you. Pulling the stem down can lower the fan to the level you require.

Fan wiring

In the fan box: if you are using # 14-2 or # 12-2, connect the wires using the following standard color scheme: white wire out of the box to the white wire of the fan, bare / green wire to the brown / green wire, black to black AND blue (if any).

In the fan housing: if the power goes to # 14-3 or # 12-3, then you have a black wire, red, white and bare (or green). Connect the wires to the fan as follows: white to white, bare (or green) to brown / green at the fan, black to black, and red to blue.

In the switch box: if there are two wall switches or regulators in the same box, then all grounds (bare and green) are connected together. The green wire or its screw on each switch must be tied to ground. Tighten this joint and press against the back of the box. Connect the white power cable to the white one from the fan, twist and also press against the back of the box. With the switches in the ON / OFF positions, connect a 15-20 cm black wire between the black power wire (phase) and screw the top onto each switch. Connect the red fan wire to the bottom of switch # 1 and the black fan wire to the bottom of switch # 2. If the connection is correct, switch # 1 turns on the light and switch # 2 turns on the fan. If you want to regulate the fan speed from the switch box, then you need to put the fan speed regulator on switch No. 2. To adjust the brightness of the lighting, you can put a dimmer in the same place on the switch No. 1.

In the switch box: if there is only one wall switch, then the connection of the white wire and ground is the same as described in the paragraph above. Connect the black power lead (phase) to the switch top screw. If you want to control the lighting through the wall switch, then connect the black wire of the fan to the power, and the red wire of the fan to the switch, then the fan will always have power, it will work regardless of the position of the switch in the circuit, and the light will be controlled by the wall switch. In order for the fan to turn on through the wall switch, and the light in a chain, you need to connect the wires in the opposite way.

If there is a control panel, then the white and black wires of the fan are connected directly to the power source, which is always active (socket or branch of the switch). Mount the remote control signal receiver as described in the instructions, which should be included - most often the power supply wire to the remote input (black to black, white to white) as well as the fan / lighting to the remote output (black to black, white to white, blue to blue).

Cover each connection with an insulating clip. Leave a little extra wire on the outside by pushing it on the inside electrical box... When working on the fan wiring, use the "wire hook" that hangs the fan.

Fan assembly

Follow the manufacturer's specific instructions first. Most of the fan blades are double-mounted, using screws that go through the holes in the blades and in the pins. Collect all this with care, but do not tighten too tightly, otherwise you can damage the surface of the blades and break the threads. On many fans, you will find pins for mounting on the motor housing. In this case, assemble them before installing them on the blades.

You will need 3 or 4 hands to assemble the fan blades / support and attach to the motor. This is a very inconvenient job.

The manufacturer's instructions may say different things, but if the fan blades are less than the length of the screwdriver from the ceiling, then it is best to install them before hanging the fan.

Some fans have a “speed ring” that allows you to assemble the blades on the floor and then mount them on the motor after it is suspended from the ceiling. For this:

• Attach each blade to a ring, then attach the ring to the motor using rubber grommets and fastening screws.
• Attach the cover to the ring and fit the decorative trim.

Fan suspension

1. Place the suspension bracket on the housing, secure with screws and secure with washers. If there are no washers, then you need to buy them, tk. vibration from the fan can loosen the screws over time. The bracket can be shaped like a half circle or a hook, depending on your fan. In any case, carefully insert the hook into the bracket. If it is a semicircle, then twist it until the bracket fits into its grooves.

   Connect the upper fan socket to the motor housing by tightening the mounting ring. If you have a high ceiling, you can also attach a tubing to the bracket.

   Hang the already assembled motor on the two hooks of the mounting bracket

   Reconnect the wires, starting at ground. Be sure to connect the black wire from the power supply to the fan and the white wire to the white wire. Connect the ground from the box, fan and power supply together with an insulating clamp. Tuck all the wires inside the top outlet and attach it to the bracket.

   Install the cover all the way to the ceiling and tighten there.

   Connect the fan motor to the bracket by securing it with screws. Turn on the power and check that the connection is working - remember that both wall switches and the power cord on the fan must be in the ON position.

Lighting installation (if applicable)

Connect the connectors of the two white wires and the black wire of the chandelier to the marked bracket wiring. If the fan and light have a plug and socket for connection, then simply connect them by inserting the plug into the socket. Screw the lighting kit to the fan.

Turn on the power and check your connection. Check if the fan is swinging.

• Inspect the blades carefully before attaching them to the fan. Blades colliding at the top will upset the balance and can potentially cause problems such as damage to wood or plastic surfaces or twisted metal blades and bracket. If any of the above is present, it may cause wobble and / or noise during operation, especially at high revs.
• For the purposes of this article, a power source is any constant (which can only be turned off by a switch on the panel or with a fuse) 120 Volt source, consists of a phase (live wire, usually black, less often red or blue) and neutral ( almost always white), bare or green ground wire may also be present. The neutral must be from the same cable as the phase (plastic insulated, armored, etc.). This source should not come out as a new line from the panel, but can come from an existing outlet or even branch off the switch where there are at least 2 cables with black and white wire in each switch box. An ammeter or tester will help determine which line is (off or source) and charge the (connected) side.
• Use only speed controllers (never dimmers) to vary the fan speed.
• Follow the manufacturer's instructions for balancing. Check the entire fan speed range for balance.
• For a discussion of working with a large ceiling fan, use the How to Install a Hugger Ceiling Fan guide.
• Make sure the fan runs quietly (if not in a commercial building).
• If the fan is installed outdoors, it must be moisture and water resistant.
• If you are going to hang the fan in your bedroom or on a high ceiling, make sure it has a wall switch or remote control.
• Only "fan boxes" should be used to support the blades. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation. All bolts should be tightened as tightly as possible to prevent fan swinging, loud noise or rapid wear.
• Use the dimmer only to vary the brightness of the lighting. Do not attempt to dim on CFLs unless they are dimmable.
• In many cities, only qualified electricians are allowed to do this work.

Warnings

• In some areas, it is illegal to install electrical equipment without an electrician's approval.
• Do not use a screwdriver to tighten the screws - it is used as long as possible, for final tightening use hand tools to avoid peeling off the screws.
• In open and wet places use dedicated fans.
• Plastic insulated white wire is not always neutral. If you do not understand the last sentence, then contact a professional.

In the hot season, a large fan under the ceiling is better than other models of fans to normalize the microclimate in the room. The air flow from it covers a significant area. And even at low revs, the effect is very pleasant for the residents. The fact that the fan occupies a central position on the ceiling, which is usually used for a chandelier, does not cause problems, since in some models the functions of the fan and the chandelier are combined.

But fixing to the ceiling of a conventional chandelier and a combined model are somewhat different. For an ordinary chandelier, a hook is enough, which is provided in any room. It is motionless and, besides the force of gravity, no other forces act on it. And when the impeller rotates, a torque occurs. It is directed in the opposite direction of rotation. And this feature should be taken into account by the suspension of a ceiling fan of any design, especially when combined with a chandelier. In the absence of a rigid attachment, when the impeller rotates, axial displacements will appear.

For high ceilings

Simple ceiling fan during these movements it is not striking. But the movement of bulbs in a chandelier with a fan will create an unpleasant light effect in the room. Light and especially shadows will move. If the ceilings in the room are high, false ceilings are usually installed. The base of an ordinary chandelier is made according to the level false ceiling and suspended from a chain or rope. These extension cords cannot be used for a chandelier with a fan. In this case, the best extension cord would be metal pipe... Its diameter should be such that it fits onto the ceiling hook with two holes made near its end. These hook holes must be diametrically opposed.

The pipe is also convenient for placing wires inside it. Although the wires are connected, as if to one device, in fact, they create two separately working circuits. After all, during the day when the impeller rotates, the light of the lamp is not needed. Therefore, to control lamps in the simplest circuit, the same is required as for a chandelier. And the fan has its own separate circuit. It allows you to adjust the speed of the impeller. The connection diagram of the simplest model is shown in the image below. It has one lamp and one impeller speed. Therefore, to control such a chandelier - a fan, a switch with two keys is enough.

Variety of models

The number of lamps can be three, five, and sometimes more. The impeller speed can be divided into two or three stages and even be infinitely variable. You can also smoothly adjust the light of the lamps using dimmers. There are many models of such combined structures, and it is unlikely that they can be standardized with several schemes. In order not to experience problems with the installation of the wiring diagram for such a chandelier, when buying, you need to make sure that the accompanying documentation is available and everything is clearly stated in it regarding the connection of the product to the mains.

If the wiring diagram of a chandelier with a fan turns out to be too complicated in order to assemble it with your own hands, there will certainly be specialists who will do everything necessary. When the selected model contains sensors for controlling lighting, or the speed of rotation of the impeller, there is a separate control unit, the possibility of programming is better at the time of purchase to solve the issue of calling a specialist in order to connect such a chandelier with a fan. You can not only fail to assemble a complex circuit with your own hands, but also disable something.

Air circulation is very important, therefore the combination of a ceiling chandelier with a fan creates optimal conditions for work. Such lighting devices can provide an inflow fresh air in any season. Reviews of these models indicate that the rotation of its elements does not lower the degree in the room.

For the price, lighting fixtures with a fan are different:

• in a low price category, which can be bought inexpensively suck;
• at an average price based on family budget, select the appropriate quality;
• there are luxury models, their price is quite high.

If someone wondered how to connect a chandelier with a fan on their own in a three-phase network, then here you can find information on this issue.

Before you start connecting a chandelier with a fan, it is important to decide on the choice of its location so that the light falls evenly without disturbing the overall mood of the room. If you plan to connect it to the place of the previous chandelier, then you can skip this item.

Next, determine the approximate weight of the chandelier and if you find that it weighs more than 13-15 kg, you need to install a beam that will help hold the chandelier. If you skip this step, you could damage the wires or the surface of the ceiling. V ordinary apartments it is unlikely that such a heavy chandelier will be found, therefore, most likely, you can do without installing an auxiliary beam.

Junction box installation

Before you start connecting the chandelier with a fan, you need to connect the junction box to the power cable. This must be done carefully and carefully, following all safety rules.

The heart of the design, that is electrical circuit, should connect at a distance of a little more than 10 cm with installed box, a supply of wires after connecting the cable is necessary in case of damage to the wires. Then you need to close all the wires with a special cover. All wires should be insulated and the box bolted securely.

There are already many reviews that are full of pleasant words in favor of such a design. This is not surprising, because buying such a lamp means giving yourself a soft pleasant coolness along with gentle lighting. Air conditioners consume a large number of electricity, which cannot be said about ceiling chandeliers - fans, which you can buy in a specialty store. For example, you can find quality, refined and functional model at Leroy Merlin.

Moscow stores have established themselves as reliable suppliers quality constructions where you can easily find a wide variety lighting fixtures and inexpensive. A photo of a chandelier with a fan will help you get to know the design better. In addition, the photos that are in this article can be an excellent assistant in choosing a chandelier suitable for dealing with stuffy and stagnant air in the room. The price of a chandelier with a fan is low compared to an air conditioner and it is more profitable to purchase such a design than an air conditioner and a chandelier separately.