Purchase Box under fan In the shop of household or electrical goods. It is better to buy a box of "old sample" (not new style) If you do not have access to the ceiling from above. There are two types of boxes of old design: the first is a fan that covers an existing beam; It is easier to put it, however, it is necessary to "detect" the beam, and not "go" it. The second type on an adjustable hinge, which can be expanded between two beams, it is harder to do, but it gives more options. Both types of structures work equally well.

After you determine where to install the fan, "Check if you have access to power." Browse the section below where there are several tips about the power supply. Adjust the location as you need. Then I cut the hole there with a saw for plasterboard; It should be the size of it to freely cover your fingers and check if there are obstacles for the box. Such a small hole is easier to patch if its location is inappropriate.

If there are no obstacles (wires, pipes, pieces of fittings, etc.d.), Observe the fan box on the ceiling, where it will be installed, and cut the saw hole on it.

If the installation is carried out in the kitchen or dining room, then the existing selected power supply can contain a larger cross section, #12. Regardless of the location, if your power supply with wires number 12, you need to use No. 12-2 or # 12-3 instead No. 14-2 or No. 14-3, where is indicated below the icon " * " (General rule – never Do not connect wires together with different sections).

Pull out the wire No. 14-2 * or No. 14-3 * from the distribution box, in which both and No. 14 * hot wire 120 volts and zero to the fan are disabled. If your fan with the control panel, it can be powered directly from 120 volts outlet. But it will be better if you install and connect a new distribution box Outside, - so that it turns on the fan. If you ever decide to remove it and replace it with a chandelier, then the wall will be the ready-made switch.

Wire No. 14-2 * Used if you want: a) turn on / off the fan and lighting (if possible) by one switch; b) Turn on / off the fan and / or light with a remote control, which is complete with a fan or purchased separately.

Wire No. 14-3 * is needed for: c) Turn on the fan regardless of the lighting with two switches in one box.

Wire No. 14-3 * provides the possibility of connecting options A, B or B with the greatest flexibility at a small cost.

Use suitable connectors where it is necessary, distribute the wires in the fan housing through the inlet holes.

Strengthen the fan junction box in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. All fans are vibrated when working. Your fastening should withstand this constant impact, that is why NEC (National Electrotechnical Code) obliges mandatory use of boxes for fans. Many people have received injuries due to the deficiencies of the installation before there were changes from NEC. The use of special fan boxes significantly reduces this risk.

Determine whether there is a need for a special attachment. When attaching to the ceiling at an angle, some fans need a special attachment with a slope that can be included or missing in it. Most fans have a universal mount, which is suitable for both horizontal position and inclined. Choose what is best for you. The extension of the rod can reduce the fan to the level you want.

Wiring fan

In a fan box: If you use No. 14-2 or No. 12-2, connect the wires according to the following standard color scheme: white wire From the box to the white fan wire, uninsulated / green wire to brown / green wire, black to black and blue (if there is such).

In the fan housing: If the nutrition goes to No. 14-3 or by No. 12-3, then you have a black wire, red, white and uninsulated (or green). Connect the wires to the fan as follows: white to white, uninsulated (or green) to brown / green in fan, black to black and red to blue.

In the switch box: If in one box two wall switches or regulator, then all grounding (uninsulated and green) are connected together. The green wire or its screw on each switch should be in bundle with grounding. Tighten this connection and press to the back of the box. Connect the white power wire to white from the fan, tighten and also press to the back of the box. With switches in ON / OFF positions, connect 15-20 centimeter black wire between the black power wire (phase) and tip on each switch. Connect the red fan wire to the bottom of the switch number 1 and the black fan wire to the bottom on the switch number 2. If the connection is carried out correctly, the switch number 1 includes light, and switch No. 2 is a fan. If you want to adjust the fan speed from the switch box, then you need to put the fan speed controller to switch No. 2. To adjust the lighting brightness, you can deliver a dimmer to the same place on the switch number 1.

In the switch box: If the wall switch is only one, then the connection of white wire and grounding is the same as described above. Connect the black power switch (phase) to the top screw switch. If you want to control the lighting via the wall switch, connect the fan's black wire to the power supply, and the red fan wire to the switch, then the fan will always have a power supply, it will work independently of the switch position in the circuit, the light will be monitored by the wall switch. In order for the fan turned on through a wall switch, and the light is a chain, you need to connect the wires in the opposite way.

If there is a control panel, then the white and black fan wires are connected directly to the power source, which is always active (socket or switching switch). Insert the remote control receiver as it is stated in the instructions, which should be included - most often the power supply wire to the remote entry (black to black, white to white) as well as a fan / lighting to remote output (black to black, white to White, blue to blue).

Cover each connection with an insulating clip. Leave a bit of excess wire outside by pressing it inside electrical box. While working with the fan wiring, use the "wire hook" to which the fan is suspended.

Assembling fan

First follow the special instructions from the manufacturer. Most fan blades have double fasteners, they use screws that pass through the holes in the blades and in the pins. It is necessary to collect all this with caution, but not too tightly tighten, otherwise you can damage the surface of the blades and thread threads. On many fans you will find pins for installation on the engine case. In this case, collect them before installing on the blade.

In the process of assembling the blades / support of the fan and attachment to the motor, you will need 3 or 4 hands, t.to. This is a very uncomfortable job.

The manufacturer's instructions can speak differently, but if the fan blades are removed from the ceiling for a length smaller than a screwdriver length, it is better to install them before hanging the fan.

Some fans have a "speed ring", which will allow you to assemble the blades on the floor, and then install them on the motor after it is suspended to the ceiling. For this:

• Attach each blade to the ring, then attach the ring to the motor using rubber bushings and bonding screws.
• Attach the lid on the ring and install the decorative lining.

Fan hanging

1. Install the hanging bracket on the body, secure it with screws and lock the washers. If there is no washer, then you need to buy them, because Vibration of the fan can over time weaken the screws. The bracket can take a form of a semicircle or hook, depending on your fan. In any case, carefully impose a hook into the bracket. If it is a semicircle, turn it until the bracket does not get into its grooves.

   Connect the top outlet of the fan with the motor housing, spinning the mounting ring. If you have a high ceiling, you can also attach the tube to the bracket.

   Hang over two mounting bracket hooks already assembled Motor

   Connect the wires again, starting from grounding. Be sure that connect the black wire from the power to the fan and the white wire to white. Connect the ground from the box, fan and the power supply together with an insulating clip. Hide all the wires inside the top socket and attach it to the bracket.

   Install the cover at full height before the ceiling and tighten it there.

   Connect the fan motor with a bracket by attaching it to screws. Turn on the power and make sure that the connection is running - remember that both wall switches and cord switch on the fan must be in the ON position.

Installing lighting (if applied)

Connect the connectors of two white wires and a black chandelier wire to the marked bracket wiring. If the fan and light have a plug and a socket for the connection, then simply connect them by inserting the plug into the outlet. Secure the lighting kit to the fan with screws.

Turn on the power and check your connection. Check if the fan does not swing.

• Carefully inspect the blades before attaching them to the fan. Starting up the top blade breaks the balance and can become a potential cause of such problems as damage to wooden or plastic surfaces or curvature of metal blades and bracket. If at least one of the above is present, then this may cause swing and / or noise when working, especially on large revs.
• As part of this article, the power source is any permanent (which can only be disconnected by the switch on the panel or using the fuse) by a 120 volt source, consists of a phase (wire under voltage, usually it is black, less than red or blue) and neutral ( Almost always white), uninsulated or green ground wire may also be present. Neutral should be from the same cable as the phase (insulated plastic, reinforced, etc.). This source should not go out as a new line from the panel, but can go from an existing outlet or even a branch from the switch, where there are at least 2 cables with black and white wire in each box with a switch. Ampmeter or tester will help determine where the line (turned off or source) and charge (connected) side.
• Use only speed controllers (and never dimmers) to vary the speed of rotation of the fan.
• Follow the instructions from the manufacturer to balancing. Check for balancing the entire range of fan speeds.
• To consider working with great ceiling fan Use How To Install A Hugger Ceiling Fan.
• Make sure the fan works silently (if it is not in a commercial building).
• If the fan is installed outside the room, it should be moisture and waterproof.
• If you are going to hang the fan in the bedroom or on a high ceiling, make sure that it has a wall switch or control panel.
• Only "fan boxes" should be used to support blades. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation. All bolts must be twisted so tightly as soon as it is possible to prevent the fan swing, strong noise or its fast wear.
• Dimmer Use only to vary the lighting brightness. Do not attempt to put a dimmer on compact fluorescent lamps if they do not have a marker about adjustable brightness.
• In many cities, only qualified electricians are allowed to perform this work.

Warnings

• In some areas, the installation of electrical equipment in the absence of an electrician tolerance is illegal.
• Do not use a screwdriver to tighten the screws - it is used until it is possible for final tightening hand toolsIn order to avoid robbing screws.
• In open I. wet places Use specifically for this designed fans.
• White wire, isolated plastic, is not always neutral. If you do not understand the last sentence, contact a professional.

Air circulation is very important, so the chandelier chandelier with a fan creates optimal conditions for work. Such lighting devices can provide influx fresh air in any season. Reviews about these models say that the rotation of her elements does not lower the degree in the room.

For the price lighting appliances with a fan come different:

• in a low price category that you can buy sucks cheap;
• at an average price, based on family budget, choose the appropriate quality;
• there are luxury models, their price is quite high.

If someone wondered how to connect a chandelier with a fan independently in a three-phase network, here you can find information on this issue.

Before you start connecting the chandelier with a fan, it is important to determine the choice of location of its location so that the light falls uniformly, without disturbing the overall mood of the room. If you plan to connect it to the place of the last chandelier, you can skip this item.

Next, determine the approximate weight of the chandelier and if you find that it weighs more than 13-15 kg, it is necessary to install a beam that will help to keep the chandelier. If you skip this step, you can harm the wires or surface of the ceiling. IN ordinary apartments It is unlikely to meet so heavy chandelier, therefore, most likely, you can do without installing the auxiliary beam.

Installing a junction box

Before you start connecting a chandelier with a fan, you must connect a junction box with a power cable. It is necessary to do it carefully and neatly, following all safety regulations.

The heart of the design, that is, the electrical circuit must be connected at a distance of a little more than 10 cm with installed box, The stock of wires after connecting the cable is necessary in case of damage to the wires. Then you need to close all the wires with a special lid. All wires must be extended, and the box is tightly tightened with bolts.

There are already many reviews that are full of nice words in favor of a similar design. It is not surprising, because to buy such a lamp - it means to give yourself a soft pleasant cool together with gentle lighting. Air conditioners consume a large number of electricity, which you can't tell about the ceiling listrah fansYou can buy in a specialized store. For example, you can find high-quality, exquisite and functional model In Lerua Merlen.

Moscow stores have proven themselves as reliable suppliers quality designswhere you can easily find a wide variety lighting devices and inexpensive. A photo of chandeliers with a fan will help to get better to get acquainted with the design. In addition, the photo that is in this article will be able to become an excellent assistant in choosing a chandelier suitable for combating stuffy and stagnant air in the room. The price of a chandelier with a fan compared to air conditioning is low and more profitable to buy all the same design than air conditioning and chandeliers separately.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the site "Electrician Notes".

He turned to me familiar with the following problem - he does not include a radio-controlled chandelier.

Let me remind you that the radio-controlled chandelier can be controlled or from the control panel, or by pressing the switch key.

In this case, the chandelier ceased to respond both on the console and on the switch.

I think that the problem is quite relevant, therefore, on hot trails, and decided to write an article, which will help save finances and independently deal with a similar problem, not only to ordinary consumer citizens and home masters, but also electricians who have not yet mastered the connection schemes of such chandeliers.

Before you begin searching for malfunction and repair chandeliers with a control panel, you need to know its device and a connection scheme.

Device and chandelier diagram with control panel

Chandeliers with a control panel can only be with incandescent lamps, can only be with halogen lamps, can only be with lED lampsand can be combined.

In my example, the combined chandelier with halogen lamps and LED illumination is presented in my example.

That's how she looked when I was brought to her.

Looking at such a knot of wires and blocks, there is no desire to understand further, as in principle, and made the electrician who was initially invited to eliminate the malfunction. He simply took the chandelier, took his blood 200 rubles and recommended to search for another electrician for the repair of this chandelier.

But there is nothing supernatural in the scheme. It is only at first glance, such an impression is created, but believe me, everything is not so difficult.

So, we go in order.

Of the variety of radio-controlled chandeliers, their device consists of the following same type of modules:

• radio control unit (controller bundled with control panel)
• block halogen lamps
• block of LED Lamps

Consider the purpose of each block separately.

The radio control unit is a chandelier or controller - in fact, it is a wireless switch that can be controlled using the control panel (PU) or using a conventional single-wave switch. This radio control unit is also called a switter that with translation from English means "switch".

In the chair under consideration, a radio-controlled Wireless Switch unit type Y-7E is installed.

Specifications of the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller:

• 200-240 supply voltage (B)
• number of output channels - 3
• output voltage 200-240 (B)
• power of each channel not more than 1000 (W) when connecting incandescent lamps or halogen lamps
• power of each channel not more than 200 (W) when connecting energy-saving lamps
• control remote control - 8 (m)

The Wireless Switch Y-7E controller connection diagram is depicted on its housing.

The power of the controller is carried out through a single block switch (in the diagram it is indicated by the letter K) as follows:

• phase (L) connects to Red Wire
• zero (N) connects to a black output (Black Wire)

For clarity and better understanding of the chandelier connection scheme with a control panel, I will spread it consistently in the form of fragments.

Here is a fragment of the power circuit of the Y-7E controller through a single block switch.

For those who forgot how a single block switch connects.

The Wireless Switch controller type Y-7E has three output channels with the following wire marking:

• phase of the First Channel - Brown Output (Brown Wire)
• phase of the Second Channel - White Output (White Wire)
• phase of the Third Canal - Blue Wire (Blue Wire)
• common zero - black output (Black Wire)

The remaining one white conductor is the antenna of the receiver of the signals from the control panel (PU). It is not necessary to connect anywhere.

Fragment of the Y-7E Controller Connection Scheme without a connected load.

As you can see that feeds zero (N) and the total zero at the output of the controller (N) have the same color of the wires. This is due to the fact that this conductor is single and it does not burst into the controller - these two conductors are soldered for one terminal. In principle, they can be changed in places.

And here appearance The boards of the Y-7E controller, but we will return to it.

As I said slightly higher, our controller has three output channels, which means it can be connected to three independent lighting groups. In our chandelier it is:

• 1st group of halogen lamps
• 2nd group of halogen lamps
• lEDs (backlight)

Yes, by the way, in addition to three-channel controllers, there are: single-channel, two-channel and even four-channel. The meaning is the same, the difference is only in the number of output channels and the controller control algorithm, so I will not consider them separately.

We figured out the output channels, now we turn to the loads.

Block halogen lamps

Block halogen lamps consists of:

• power supply (transformer)
• halogen lamps

Here I will only point out that in our chandelier for powering halogen lamps, the electronic transformers of the Jindel GET-08 voltage 220/12 (B) and a capacity of 160 (W) are used.

As a load, halogen lamps with G4 base, power 20 (W) in the amount of 6 pieces are connected as a load to the transformer. Each lamp is connected to the transformer outputs in parallel.

Attention! Do not install halogen lamps in the chandelier in a chandelier, otherwise the transformer fails or the cartridges will be covered.

Let's return to the next fragment of the scheme.

The controller is connected to the first channel (Brown Wire) an electronic transformer for the 1st group of halogen lamps.

The electronic transformer is made according to PUE:

• phase (Login) - Brown
• zero (input) - blue color

The exit wires have the following colors:

• phase (output) - white color
• zero (output) - gray

All wire connections in the chandelier are made using terminal insulated plugs (KIZ).

The plug is made of a transparent nylon, through which it can be seen the depth of the call lived in the sleeve and the resulting result after the crimping.

Then the resulting insulated connection is still additionally insulated with a shrink tube, and the tip is tightened with a screed-clamp. It turns out a fairly reliable and high-quality connection.

Electronic transformer for the 2nd group of halogen lamps is connected to the second channel (White Wire) of the controller.

Color marking of wires here is similar, as at the first transformer.

Let me remind you that halogen lamps can not be touched by bare hands behind the flask - only through the glove, a napkin or a cloth, otherwise they will quickly fail.

Block of LEDs

And it remains to consider the connection scheme of the third channel in the chandelier.

In the chandeliment under consideration, a simple LED-driver ALED (Jindel Electric) GEL-11101 with a straightened output voltage of 3-3.2 (B) is used to power the LEDs.

The driver is connected to the third channel (Blue Wire) controller.

Driver wire marking has the following colors:

• phase (Login) - Red
• zero (input) - red
• "+" (Exit) - black
• "-" - White color

The GEL-11101 driver output can be connected from 2 to 22 LEDs. In our case, 15 LEDs are connected, which in the process of work smoothly change their color.

All LEDs in the chain are interconnected. Naturally, if at least one LED fails, then the whole branch will not burn. So if you stopped burning neon lights In the chandelier, then first of all it is necessary to start with checks of LEDs.

LEDs are very easy. They are simply inserted into their conclusions (legs) in the appropriate connector. The main thing is to observe the polarity when they are installed.

Alternatively, instead of the burned LED, you can install a jumper. The driver allows you to work with a smaller number of LEDs, but do not get drunk hard, otherwise the service life of the remaining LEDs can significantly reduce. The jumper can be used as a temporary solution to solve the problem.

Operating modes chandeliers with control panel

As I said at the beginning of the article, the chandelier can be controlled in two ways: using the remote control (like) and using a conventional single-wave switch.

The chalk control panel is programmed to a certain frequency and cipher radio signal, and can only work with the controller that has been included. Keep in mind that the remote from another chandelier does not fit for you, so in the case of the remote control, you will definitely have to buy another controller.

• button A.
• button B.
• button S.
• button D.

When you click on the button, the first channel of the controller is turned on, i.e. The 1st group of halogen lamps will light up. When you press the button A - the first channel is shutdown. Similarly, with buttons B and C, only they control the second and third channel, respectively. But when you press the D button, it is managed by all three channels.

If you manage the chandelier using a single-color switch, then the first channel will turn on when the key is turned off and then turn on the algorithm key to turn on the second channel, etc., i.e. There is a sequential switching of the controller channels. And then the cycle of channel control is repeated.

With prolonged power off, the controller algorithm is reset to the initial state.

In principle, if the battery packs or you lost it at all, then you can manage the chandelier, it is quite convenient to control the chandelier.

Diagnosis and repair chandeliers with the control panel with their own hands

With a chandelier connections with a control panel, we figured out, and now you need to diagnose our fault.

Let me remind you that the chandelier under consideration does not turn on, or from the control panel, nor from the switch.

In principle, everything is simple. Once there is no radio control, it means first of all the controller (switch) falls under suspicion. But you need 100% to make sure that. Therefore, I decided to exclude it from the scheme and connect all three lighting groups directly to the network 220 (B) to check the health of electronic transformers for halogen lamps and drivers for LED backlight.

For this I collected the following scheme.

As temporary connections I applied.

Turn on the machine and look. All lamps should turn around, provided that they are good and their power supplies are working. As you can see, in my case, all the lamps are burning, with the exception of a couple of halogen bulbs.

Dropped halogenki I immediately replace on halogenks with similar parameters: base G4, voltage 12 (B), power 20 (W) from the navigator.

From here we make an obvious conclusion that the cause of a malfunction in the chandelier was found - the Switch of Y-7E was faced.

With the external inspection of the Y-7E fee, I did not see the burnt and charred elements.

Only here on the Condenser MKR-X2Y I noticed some "track", but most likely so casually drunk the factory varnish.

By the way, the power of the controller is carried out by a testransformed method according to a scheme with a quenching capacitor, i.e. To the network 220 (B) consistently connected: Condenser MKR-X2, Diode Bridge, Stabilitron and Load. On the condenser "drops" the excess voltage of the network, and at the outlet of the diode bridge, the voltage is already about 12-13 (c) of the DC. The receiver of signals isted from the source 5 (B), which is converted from voltage 12 (B).

The coils of the relay (blue blocks) are connected to voltage 12 (B), the contacts of which switch the load of the output channels.

As you can see, the relay contacts are designed for current to 10 (a) at a voltage of 240 (B), although in specifications The power of the channel is limited to the capacity of 1000 (W) or a current of 4.5 (a), i.e. There is even some other stock.

The article and so came out sufficiently volumetric, so I will tell you another time about the search for a fault and repair of the Y-7E controller - subscribe to the newsletter so as not to miss the output of new and interesting articles.

Now it is necessary to purchase a controller similar to the power and number of channels, connect it accordingly and check the performance.

My friend acquired the SNEHA B-837 controller. It is quite suitable for power and number of channels. Its cost amounted to 535 rubles (at the date of writing of the article).

Such devices can be purchased at lower prices, for example, on Aliexpress famous Chinese venues.

If there is no urgent need for a controller, then the chandelier can be left connected directly from a single-wave switch without a controller.

In the kit there is even a stand for the control panel. It can be placed near the sofa or bed so that the remote control is not lost.

Connect the purchased controller according to the above scheme. The difference will only be in the colors of the wires of its output channels.

The SNEHA controller B-837 has three output channels that have the following wire marking:

• phase of the First Channel - Blue Output (Blue)
• phase of the Second Channel - White Output (White)
• phase of the Third Canal - Yellow Output (Yellow)
• common zero - black output (Black-Neutral Out)

The connection of the controller wires with the wires of the chandelier I carried out with the help of sleeve tips of the NShVA section of 2.5 square meters. Inserted two conductors, put the PKVK-6 press ticks, for insulated and ready.

Check the performance of the chandelier, both from the control panel and the switch key. Only instead of the key I will switch the two-pole automatic machine.

The chandelier with the control panel is working properly.

As you can see, nothing complicated in the repair chandeliers with a remote control is not. The main thing is to consistently check the health of all lamps, electronic transformers, power supplies and radio controllers.

And already traditionally, see the video based on this article:

At the end of the article, I would like to add that controllers with the control panel can be used not only as lighting control, but also other loads, for example, remote control Blinds, curtains, cornices, gates and other electrical devices.

Addition. See the video where I have a similar chandelier by replacing the transformer for halogen lamps:

P.S. That's all. I hope that this article will help you deal with the connections and repair of the chandelier with the control panel. Thanks for attention.

The fan is a device that creates a flow of air for cooling or its circulation to eliminate unpleasant odors or removal harmful substances. Fans in everyday life are used as:

• desktop or outdoor Devices for creating comfortable conditions in hot time;
• exhaust devices in kitchens, bathrooms and bathrooms;
• in computer technician To cool the power nodes: power supply, processor, hard drives, as well as for ventilation of the case;
• in welding inverters To cool the power electronic components.

Fans fail, but not in all cases you need to hurry with a campaign to a specialized workshop. The cost of repairing some products is sometimes commensurate with the cost of buying new ones. Therefore, it is more expedient to try them to repair with your own hands.

Fan repair do it yourself

Signs of malfunction mechanical Parts of the fan are:

• outsiders noise when working;
• reduced speed rotation, with the rotation of the shaft of the turned off the instrument by hand occurs with the effort;
• full stopAt which the rotation of the fan shaft is not possible or requires considerable effort.

TO electric Faults include:

• warming protective devices (circuit breakers) when the fan is turned on;
• smells burned or overheated isolation when working;
• reduced speed rotation with free rotation of the shaft of the device turned off;
• interruptions In operation when changing modes.

Fixed mechanical malfunctions are progressing in development and lead to electrical issues. Long work The fan with a jam on the shaft leads to overheating and failure of the winding of the electric motor. The breakdown bearing allows the motor shaft to make movements in the radial direction, which lead to damage to the stator windings.

Therefore, when creating signs of malfunction, it is necessary to immediately address it.

Elimination of mechanical faults

Household fans do not have rolling bearings or similar to them, which are replaced in case of fail. Install them bearings SlipThe shaft rotates in the bushings from bronze. They are forever pressed into the housing. But even if they leave them from there, it will not be replaced. Therefore, you need to lubricate such bearings in a timely manner. It is worth it for some time to work "on dry", and the gap between the shaft and the bearing will increase. This will lead to the axial beyon of the shaft, as a result - foreign noise, reducing revolutions and an increase in the bearing wear rate. This is especially fatally for computer coolers.

For lubrication used machine oilbut better to apply spindle. If there is sewing machine, then oil for its lubrication - the best way For fan bearings. For lubricant, the fan must be disassembled to get to the bearings. Coolers and some exhaust fans sufficiently spare protective film with one of the sides.

Pay attention to pollution Bearing. In some cases, you have to disassemble the node, clean it, and then collect and lubricate. No need to apply a lot of lubricant: the bearing for normal operation is enough one or two drops. The rest will be sprinkled throughout the body at the first start. Drops of oil inside the housing are not bad for dust.

If after lubrication still observes noise when working, the shaft beating, then the product will have to be thrown away. Replace the sliding bearing will not work.

Troubleshooting electrical part of the fan

With a complete stop of the fan, you need to check network cord and switches Work modes. This will require a multimeter. Best Method Checking the power cord - measure the voltage at the input terminal fan terminal or in the cord connecting places to its internal elements. Observe caution when checking: Do not touch the hands of stresses under voltage. After checking, immediately remove the plug from the outlet.

The serviceability of the switches is checked by measuring their resistance in the "Included" position. They can fail with frequent switching. It is best to immediately measure the voltage on the electric motor, but for this you need to know electrical circuit Fan. And also - the principle of its operation and control speed.

The revolutions adjustment is carried out by switching the outputs from the engine. In this case, one of its windings has a number of taps (spindles), the switching of which changes the number of turns on the stator. With this scheme, you need to measure before and after the switch to find out whether it is working. If the voltage eats, and the engine does not rotate, you need to measure the resistance of its windings. If the device shows a break, then the engine is guilty.

Another element whose fault leads to a stop of the fan is fazosvigating condenser. In the schemes where it is applied, the electric motor has two windings. One of them is connected to a power supply directly, and the other through a capacitor that performs the stress shift on it by phase by 90 degrees.

When a condenser malfunction, the winding either does not receive power, or phase shift does not occur. In both cases, the electric motor will not rotate. Check the condition of the capacitor can be a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. At the same time you need to choose the largest limit of measurements. The condenser must be discharged before connecting the device by closing its conclusions to each other.

If at the time of touch, the leads of the multimeter briefly appear indications, and then it shows the "opening", then the condenser is working. If its testimony is zero or infinity and do not change, the condenser has failed and requires replacement.

The working voltage of the new capacitor should not be less than that of the replaceable, and the container is to match the original. Its value is calculated in relation to the parameters of the motor winding, if it is changed, the phase shift angle will be greater or less than 90˚, and the fan will not start, or will rotate slower.

Attention, do not confuse the conclusions of the windings. Before disconnecting, Mark the wires and sketch how they were connected. Additionally take a picture of the node before disassembling.

When discontinuishes the windings of the electric motor, the repair ends. You can try to find the location of the cliff or make sure that the winding burned down (it indicates the darkening of the color of the insulation of its wires). But the rewind of modern household devices It is economically inexpedient, and to spend it at home you need to have professional winding skills. Therefore, devices with burnt electric motors can be thrown out without remorse.

This also applies to the faults of electronic fan speed control devices.

From a long time, people have dreamed. The first attempts to collect a mechanical device capable of replacing and exceeding the fan and appeared, were taken back in the 16th century. In the 19th century, the device was invented, due to the spinless impeller, the air moved, bringing a feeling of coolness. The impeller movement was driven by water pressure, which was served on a pipe or hose. There was an attempt to apply in these purposes and steam engine.

But the widespread spread of such devices has become possible only thanks to Thomas Edison: with the advent electric engine The fan has become an ineffective and cumbersome facility in extremely useful devicecreating comfortable conditions.

Since then, hundreds of models have been created, fully meets various requirements.

The species used in everyday life include outdoor, desktop and. Next, we will analyze questions related to the installation of the last species.

One of the advantages of fans in front of split systems, in addition to efficiency, is the ease of installation that can be carried out without the involvement of specialists.

Installing the "Ceetem" a little more difficult to install a conventional chandelier. Therefore, if there are minimal execution skills - you can proceed to independently fixing and connecting the device.

Ceiling fans are distinguished by manufacturing material, in diameter, quantity and size of blades, power, design and other parameters.

As a rule, all modern models Equipped with a lamp, and a separate lamp can work, separately fan or all together.

Ceiling height and room size - the most important criteria To select. The distance between the floor and the blades should not be less than two meters of thirty centimeters - such rules are taken to prevent injury to rotating elements.

The traditional and most successful location of the device is the center of the room. If the room is small, the air flow created by one fan will be able to provide. In the case of a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe room, you may need to install two or more "ceilings".

In some cases, it is required to spend a separate line from the panel to the installation site - if it is not able to withstand the load from the engine and the lamps included simultaneously.

Before starting work, it is necessary to turn off the electricity. Then, check the presence of a phase using the indicator - you should not neglect this simple operation, especially since the time does not need a lot on it.

At the first stage, in addition to turning off the power supply, it is performed. If the fan is planned to be installed on the site of the old chandelier, the next step is to dismantle the lighting device.

In most cases, the ceiling electric core is also required, which is usually designed for the weight of the chandelier alone. Instead of the box set a special unit.

Next, you need to assemble the design according to the manufacturer's instructions. Immediately clarify that in some models, the blades and the lamp are screwed on the ceiling, after fixing the rod. However, in most cases, the fan is completely assembled at the bottom.

The blades for the rod with the electric motor must be screwed as securely as possible, the lamp is fixed with high quality, but neatly so as not to damage the elements.

Wires for connecting are pulled through the central hole.

Do not forget and close it with a ceiling. Now the assembled device must be securely fixed on the ceiling overlap.

• on the concrete base The device is fixed with dowels, mounting brackets with screws;
• if the ceilings are suspended or roll, fastening elements are located on the main ceiling. Such an approach is explained simply: the considerable weight of the "ceiling", reaching 20 kilograms, requires high-quality consolidation. In addition, it is necessary to provide a gap between and fasteners, so that during operation of the engine, the vibration is not transmitted to the stretched material of the decorative overlap, and did not create noise.

Connect the wires of the fan and wires of the ceiling electrocarditus in the sequence specified in the instruction, as the manufacturers use different color marking.

The fan is usually fixed on the bracket to the terminal bar of which power is supplied with grounding, and then the control unit is connected to the connectors.

After all the connections are made, proceed to the last phase: fix the lid, which will give the whole design the aesthetics and completeness.