Before starting the design, you need to decide on the type of guides that will be used. I will show you how to design a drawer with roller guides and overhead fronts.

This is what roller guides look like:

One drawer requires two pairs of runners. Some of the rails are attached to the drawer, and others to the furniture racks.

In order to design and then install boxes you need to know the following parameters:

- height of the fronts of the boxes;

- the size of the boxes - width, depth, height;

- dimensions for attaching the rails to the racks.

For example, you need to make a chest of drawers with four drawers. Chest of drawers dimensions: width - 800mm, height without legs - 800mm, depth - 440mm.

The lid of the chest of drawers will hang over the facades, there will be overhead. To calculate the boxes, the parameters of the roller guides will be used.

The first thing to decide on is the height of the facades. We draw a diagram of a chest of drawers, side view. First, we put down the required gaps: between the lid of the chest of drawers and the upper facade - 4mm; between the facades - 2-3mm, distance from the bottom of the curbstone - 2 mm.

We calculate the height of the facades:

1) plus all the gaps and margins: 4 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 12;

2) I subtract the received amount from the working height of the chest of drawers: 784 -12 = 772;

3) I divide the result by the number of facades: 772: 4 = 193

The height of one front is 193 mm. The width of the front is 4mm less than the total width of the product: 800 - 4 = 796mm.

The box consists of two sides, a front wall, a back wall and a bottom.

The front and rear walls are inserted between the sidewalls. For wide drawers, one more detail can be added: drawer tie bar. It will prevent the bottom of the drawer from sagging. The tie bar is attached between the front and rear walls. The bottom of the fiberboard is nailed from below. The bottom must be attached to all walls and to the tie bar.

Let's decide on the dimensions of the box parts.

To determine the height of the walls of the box, I use the rule - the height of the box is at least 50 mm less than the height of the front of the box. In my case, 193 -50 = 143mm. I round up to 140mm.

The length of the side walls is equal to the length of the guides. The depth of the chest of drawers is 440mm, roller guides with a length of 400mm will be used, which means that the length of the side walls is 400mm.

First, we determine the width of the opening of the chest of drawers - we subtract the thickness of two racks of 16 mm from the total width: 800 - (16 * 2) = 768.

There should be a gap equal to the thickness of the rail between the side wall of the drawer and the rack of the chest of drawers.

The thickness of one pair of roller guides is 12.5mm.

The total thickness of two pairs of roller guides is 12.5 + 12.5 = 25mm. Let's add one more millimeter in order to prevent the heads of the self-tapping screws from touching the guides, the total gap is 26mm.

In order to find out the width of the front wall of the box, you need to subtract the thickness of the guides and the thickness of the side walls of the box from the width of the opening. The thickness of the guides is already known - 26mm, and the thickness of the side walls of the box is 16 + 16 = 32mm.

The width of the front (back) wall is: 768 - (26 + 32) = 710mm.

We got details of the following dimensions:

side wall 400 x 140 - 2 pcs;

front (back) wall 710 x 140 - 2 pcs;

bottom 737 x 395.

Now you need to mark the lines for attaching the guides to the racks of the chest of drawers. Always start marking from the top edge of the part. And even if you are a little mistaken, it will not be noticeable at the bottom. For marking, I use the following rule: the line on which the guide will be screwed should be 35mm higher than the bottom of the facade.

I have four boxes, there should be four lines. I think:

1st line. 4 (offset from the top) + 193 (facade height) - 35 = 162mm

2nd line. 4 + 193 + 2 (gap between facades) + 193 - 35 = 357mm

3rd line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 - 35 = 552mm

4th line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 - 35 = 747mm

The roller guide mechanism is a pair of so-called rails, between which several (2 or more) small wheels are installed.

Roller guides are the easiest guides in terms of design and installation.

The latter provide the movement of both parts of the device in two opposite directions, that is, they allow both to increase the length of the structure and to return it to its original state.

The movement takes place in one plane (usually horizontal) and is limited by the dimensions of the runners.

The material of each component has a significant effect not only on the degree of movement of the guides, but also on the durability of the entire mechanism. To maximize the service life of the device, the rails are made of metal, and to ensure the necessary travel of the runners, the rollers are made of plastic.

Roller guides for drawers.

The main reason for using roller guides is the almost complete absence of friction between moving parts. But this process strictly leads to damage and subsequent destruction of interacting surfaces and the structure as a whole.

You can find roller guides for drawers with a depth of 250 to 800 mm, that is, for almost all cases.

In addition, due to friction, much more effort is required to move the runners, which also occurs at a lower speed.

Roller guides are coated with durable epoxy enamel.

With its own set useful properties, ball guides have been competing with roller guides for a long time.

Ball guides as well as roller guides consist of two parts. One of them is attached to the box, the other to the side wall.

In the first case, a small ball acts as a component providing mobility to improvised rails, and in the second - a small roller.

Ball guide mechanism.

Roller guide mechanism.

And even despite the fact that bearings containing spherical elements can be used in the manufacture of the latter, it is this feature of the mechanisms that is the reason for their name.

Roller guides withstand dynamic loads up to 25 kg.

If we talk about the popularity of these devices, then the most common are still roller products.

The disadvantages of roller guides are the noise with which they move out and close.

Their demand was influenced by the fact that ball guides are much more often found in a non-separable version. This does not so much impede installation or complicate installation as it severely limits the scope of the mechanism.

There are many varieties of ball guides, they differ mainly in height, as well as in the degree of extension and the presence of a closer.

The use of roller guides in the design of the drawer

For some time now, the field of application of roller guides has been inextricably linked with furniture production.

It is in this area that such items are most often involved.

The device is commonly used for making wardrobes with folding arms, shoe cabinets with hidden niches and cabinets with drawers. Since the latter are common in to a greater extent, they will be discussed later.

An example of using roller guides for pulling out drawers in a cabinet.

The mechanism is fastened to the side walls of the box with outside, which does not contribute to a decrease in the usable space of the box itself.

Roller guides are partial extension guides.

This means that you cannot fully open the drawer.

In order not to damage the back wall of the cabinet and not to disconnect the drawer from it, the runners contain special stops that take the form of artificial irregularities on the rail surface.

Correct calculation and installation is the basis for the successful application of roller guides.

And in order to provide additional options for removing and installing the box, the main components have technological holes.

Ball guides would not allow pulling out and inserting a drawer after assembling furniture without disturbing its facades.

Installation of roller guides for drawers

The use of a mechanism with push pushers, which also act as limiters, allows you to preserve the appearance of the facades of the furniture and its back wall without losing functionality.

A curbstone with installed roller guides.

We install the boxes themselves inside the box and get a finished piece of furniture.

VIDEO: Installation of roller guides.

50 photo ideas for drawers with different mechanisms:

Ball guides are actively used by furniture makers to pull out drawers. At the heart of ball guides is usually solid iron, there are many modifications and there are also many manufacturers.

Ball guides so named because the movement of the component guides occurs due to metal balls, as in bearings. Strong steel balls move inside the profile, ensuring a stable easy sliding boxes of any material and any size, even under heavy loads. The design was invented by our Russian engineer Kulkov, so you can also find such a name as the Kulkov guides. But on a commercial basis, the sale of such guides was put abroad.

Sliding baskets are installed on ball guides in sliding wardrobes, baskets for detergents... On the pages of the site, an interesting application of guides for the advancement of original shoe racks in a wardrobe is described.

In principle, Tandem runners from BLUM can also be referred to as ball guides. , which almost one to one copied many other manufacturers of accessories.

In the article, we will consider ball guides from GTV , the brand is Polish, but recently it has been produced in China, it seems that the quality has not suffered much from this. Guides GTV are sold everywhere in the European part of Russia, their price is acceptable, closer to the East they are most likely selling Chinese counterparts.

T umba with boxes on ball guides.

Ball guides GTV.

Ball runners 17 mm high for drawers.

Guides with a height of 17 mm, length from 182 mm to 438 mm, hold a load up to 8-10 kg. Partial extension guides. The manufacturer recommends milling a groove on the side of the box with a depth of 10 mm and a height of 17 mm. An excellent solution for use in dressers. During installation, the assembled rail is attached to the side wall of the product, and then using screws to the side of the box.

Ball slides 27 mm high for drawers.

Guides with a height of 27 mm, length from 250 mm to 500 mm in 50 mm increments, withstand a load of 15 kg. Unlike the first option, they are disassembled, milling a groove on the side wall of the box is not required. To calculate the dimensions of the box in width, it is necessary to fold back 22 mm from the width of the inner opening of the product.

Ball runners 35 mm high for drawers.

The rails are 35 in height, from 250 mm to 500 mm in length, withstand a load of more than 20 kg, there are options for full extension. In general, it resembles a 27 mm high rail.

Ball runners 45 mm high for drawers.

Ball guides 45 mm high, the most common and widely used type of ball guides. There are various modifications in lengths from 250 to 700 mm. Already serious loads can withstand up to 36-38 kg.

Before installation, the guides must be disconnected by raising or lowering the black lever.

Such a disconnect system at most ball guides, including for baskets installed in cabinets in the kitchen.

The photo below shows a pull-out basket for dishes with attachment to the bottom, turned upside down. We press the black lever and separate the basket from the guides, then there will be no problems with installing the basket.

To calculate the dimensions of the box in width, it is necessary to subtract 26 mm from the inner width of the case, as for roller guides.

Ball guides with a height of 45 mm of full and partial extension are produced, with or without a closer. In addition, there is a ball guiding system Push to open , that is, push to open, no handle is required to open the drawer. They resemble a system called TIP ON for guides Tandem blum.

And the manufacturer Hettich, the official website http://www.hettich.com, there are ball guides of over-full extension.

Ball rail with system Push to open.

Installation of ball guides.

Consider the most common method of calculating ball guides, no program required.

We take our base cabinet 720 mm high, excluding legs, and 600 mm wide with two facades 356 m high, drawers 150 mm high. Drawers with a facade height of 356 mm can be made in heights of either 200 or 250 mm, it all depends on yours or the wishes of the customer.

Ball guides usually fastened along the central axis of the sidewall of the box, although some prefer to fasten closer to the bottom edge of the sidewall of the box.

The calculation will be carried out for the option of mounting the guide along the axis of the side wall of the box. We draw a simple drawing, you can freehand, as in the picture. Before marking, decide what the gaps between the facades will be, in our version, the gap between the facades will be 4 mm, and 2 mm at the top and bottom.

Drilling axis of the first ball guide = 2 + 34 + 75 = 111 mm,

2 is a gap of 2 mm from the bottom (the facade is superimposed on a horizontal line with a thickness of 16 mm by 14 mm, 2 mm remains)

75 is the middle of the side wall of the drawer, the total height of the drawer is 150 mm. If the bottom of the box made of fiberboard is laid on, then the height, taking into account the fiberboard, will be 153 mm. But, for calculations, we still take 150 mm.

Drilling axis of the second ball guide = 2 + 356 + 4 + 34 + 75 = 471 mm,

2 is a 2mm gap from the bottom

356 - lower elevation height

4 - the gap between the facades

Horizontal axis of drilling in the front wall of the drawer = 75 mm, from the right and left edges of the front wall we retreat by 50 mm and we get the coordinates of the drilling of the front wall.

Axis point X for screws on the facade = 34 + 75 = 109 mm,

where :

34 - distance from the lower edge of the facade to the lower edge of the drawer

75 is the middle of the side wall of the drawer

Axis point Y , for cuts for self-tapping screws for the right and left edges of the facade = 50 + 16 + 13 + 14 = 93 mm,

50 - offsets along the X axis from the edges when drilling the front wall of the drawer

16 - the thickness of the side wall of the box

13 - clearance for installing a ball guide

14 - imposition of the facade on the side wall of the cabinet (that is, a 2 mm gap remains between the edge of the side wall and the edge of the facade when the thickness of the side wall of the cabinet is 16 mm).

Usually they do not carry out any calculations, but simply drill four holes in the front wall of the box, measure the necessary indents, put the box on the facade and fasten the first two self-tapping screws. Fitting is done, if normal, then the remaining two screws are tightened. No, they unscrew it, shift it to the required distance and check it again.

After calculating, let's move on to the markup. We mark out using a tape measure, an iron ruler of a hard pencil. The attachment points of the guides with self-tapping screws are core with the help of a core or we make notches with an awl.

The most accurate markings, accuracy when installing ball guides will help to avoid distortions of boxes and other problems with further fastening of facades.

The first point along the axis is 37 mm, the next points are in 32 mm increments, see the diagram. If the facades are detachable, that is, they are located between the side walls, then add another thickness of the facade to 37 mm.

• Installation of ball guides
• Installing the mechanism to the sidewall of the niche
• Results of work

The installation of ball guides for drawers is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. Ball guides for drawers can be purchased from a specialist store. Of course, all the work can be entrusted to professionals, but they will have to pay. Similar elements can be installed on retractable structures independently.

The main advantages of ball guides: low cost, smooth running, excellent wear resistance, ease of installation.

To mount the rails on the drawers, the drawer itself must be available.

It comes with two ball designs. Before starting installation, you need to open them for ease of use.

Each of the guides consists of two fixed removable parts. First, the removable part of the system must be carefully removed. Now you can go directly to the installation.

Installation of ball guides

Each system now has two parts. The first parts are attached to the box itself, and the second to the side niche. The first component is attached to the side surface. Self-tapping screws are ideal for fastening. They can be flush mounted. It all depends on the specific design. The front of the component must be flush with the front of the drawer.

Now you can talk in more detail about how to assemble this. The removable part of this structure contains a large number of holes of various shapes... All of these holes perform specific functions and tasks.

• holes that are located horizontally allow the guides to move back and forth at a certain distance;
• vertical elements make it possible to move elements up and down also at a certain distance;
• round holes are used to precisely fix the rails in a certain place.

Installation should start with a horizontally located hole. A situation may arise where the structure is not immediately flush with the front of the drawer. It is for setting the position that horizontal holes are needed. After setting the system in the desired position, you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the round hole. The assembly doesn't end there.

It is worth noting the fact that the horizontal holes are used only as temporary ones. After exposing the elements in the desired position, they must be fixed precisely at the expense of round holes... If this is not done right away, then the box will drop down over time.

Let's move on to the installation of another facade - drawer facades. Let's analyze this process using the example of a cabinet with a section of three drawers at the bottom.

So, the boxes are assembled and installed, the handles are installed on the facades, it remains only to connect them correctly.

In the front panel, it is necessary to pre-drill holes (3 pcs for narrow facades and 4-5 for wide ones).

The main difficulty in this matter is to correctly bring out the facades relative to the box, because their adjustment is very difficult and is achieved only by guides (or they will have to be redone).

Simply attaching the facade, aligning it with the box and holding it in place with one hand, pulling out the drawer and screwing on the screws is extremely difficult (perhaps - I did it, but it's not worth it - it's too difficult). Therefore, I will advise you such a method as "double-sided tape". Any scotch tape will not work - you need a thick one, that is, on a foam basis.

So, we glue the strips of tape on the front wall of the box. (unfortunately, I did not record the installation process of the lower facade, but I think the rest of the photos compensate for this shortcoming.

Peel off protective film, after which we put spacers on the lower facade (pieces of 2 mm of the edge or DVPO - 2 and 3 mm, respectively) in order to maintain the same distance between the facades (the lower facade was installed with hands on the edges of the box).

We install the second facade on the lining in a slope, align it along the edge of the box and press it against the box.

After holding for about 30 seconds, you can gently pull out the drawer along with the glued facade. The insides of the cabinet open with holes into which we will twist the screws. (You can additionally press the front with an F-clamp to free both hands).

First, we fasten the central screw, then we push the drawer in, check the gaps and the absence of distortions, and if everything is fine, then we tighten the rest of the screws. We also fasten the rest of the facades.

Separately, I note that with this method of fixing, the boxes are not interchangeable, that is, if you swap even the same boxes, then the necessary gaps are unlikely to remain.

First, we will make a "fitting" -, we will adjust their horizontality and depth of installation in the frame, then we will finally fix the guides on the drawers.

Installation and adjustment of drawers

One at a time, we install all previously assembled drawers in the frame of the wardrobe in the sequence described below.

1. Completely "pull out" the moving parts of the guides the corresponding box, fixed to the walls of the frame.

2. Pull the bar with balls inside each guide "out" until it stops. Only in this position will the box properly fall into place.

The photo below shows the correct and incorrect positions of the strip with balls in the guide for installing the drawer.

3. Gently insert the assembled box into the frame, combining the "halves" of the ball guides, fixed on the box, with the mating parts of the guides, fixed on the walls of the frame. We push the box to the end.

Here it is important to effortlessly, carefully move the drawer deep into the cabinet, not paying attention to the order in which the moving parts of the guides will "slide in".

Ball guides for drawers are designed in such a way that if the parts of the disassembled guides on the drawers are correctly inserted into the mating parts of the guides on the walls of the frame, the guides will necessarily "assemble" correctly.

When the drawer is almost in the retracted position, you will need to make a little effort to push it all the way. At this moment, both "halves" of each guide are fixed, and the guides are in the assembled state.

Install the remaining three boxes in the same way.

Checking the progress of the boxes... If our calculations were correct, the boxes will move freely.

Checking the horizontality of the boxes... If there is no deviation or very little, there is no need to adjust the horizontal position - such deviations are compensated for when installing the drawer fronts.

If the deviation is large (one edge of the box is more than 1 mm higher than the opposite one), take out the corresponding box, loosen the screws in the "oval" holes of one of its guides, slightly shift the guide up or down (to lower or raise the edge, respectively), eliminating deviation from horizontal.

Tighten the previously loosened screws. We insert the box in its place, check its horizontal position again.

Depth adjustment of the wardrobe drawers, if required, can be done after installing the facades. In my case, no depth adjustment was required.

Now you can proceed to the most, probably, crucial stage of the installation of drawers - fitting and installation of facades.

The installation of facades will largely depend on how carefully the facades are installed. appearance wardrobe.

Installation of drawer fronts

We will begin the installation of facades on drawers with their "fitting" - from the lowest drawer.

We take a facade detail and attach it to the front wall of the lower drawer.

Estimating the dimensions of the gaps between the facade and the walls on the right and left. For this purpose, I used two drills with the same diameter of 3 mm (see photo), placed under the facade on the right and left. Why drill 3 mm? Because this is exactly the gap I planned between the lower shelf and the front of the lower drawer.

The facade can be, as it were, "rolled" on drills to the right and to the left, choosing the value of the corresponding lateral clearances. At the same time, the gap from below between the facade and the lower shelf remains unchanged, and it is fully visible - along the entire width of the drawer.

For more confidence, I tried on the facade of the second drawer from the bottom, just placing it on building level lying on the upper end of the front of the lower drawer. I also "rolled" both facades on drills - I needed it to see how the side gaps would look from the side. After all, the walls in our example are different, and the same gaps between the walls and the facade will look different (see photo).

As a result, I decided to make the gap on the left slightly less than the calculated one - 1.5 mm instead of 2 mm. To set the side clearance on the left, I also used a drill - 1.5 mm.

Thus, when installing the facades of all boxes, I was guided by the gap on the left, equal to 1.5 mm.

Once you have decided on the gaps, you can proceed directly to the installation of facades on the boxes.

For this we will use double-sided tape and screws 30 mm long.

Sticking on scotch tape one side on the front walls of the drawers. Do not remove the protective paper from the second adhesive layer of the adhesive tape yet.

Once again, we try on the facade of the lower drawer, taking into account the gaps on the right and left.

If everything is in order, remove the protective paper from the second adhesive layer of adhesive tape glued to the lower drawer, carefully place the lower part of the facade on drills 3 mm at an angle from the upper part of the drawer. And we begin to gently turn the upper part of the facade towards the box, while keeping the lower part of the facade pressed against the box.

As the facade enters the opening, we insert a 1.5 mm drill into the gap on the left, press the left side of the drawer facade against it, gently, without effort, press the facade against the front wall of the drawer with our entire plane.

Checking the horizontal installation of the facade... If the facade is installed strictly horizontally, and the gaps suit us, we press on the facade with effort so that the adhesive tape sticks to it better.

If the facade is not installed horizontally, remove it and reinstall it. If necessary, we will change the tape. We do this operation until the facade stands horizontally with the necessary gaps at the bottom and along the edges.

Then, carefully, without applying any effort to the yet only glued facade, we pull out the bottom drawer, and from the inside screw a pair of screws 30 mm long into the facade through the front wall, thus fixing the facade on the drawer (see photo).

We will screw in the rest of the screws after we have installed the facades of all the boxes.

Further we measure the distance between the upper part of the facade installed on the lower drawer and the lower plane of the shelf above the drawers... We need to ensure that the gaps between the facades and this shelf are the same (see photo).

From the obtained distance, we subtract the height of the facades of the three remaining boxes, and divide the difference by 4 - according to the number of gaps.

In my case, the gaps turned out to be 35 mm, that is, in full accordance with the calculations.

Starting from the second from the bottom of the facade and above, the facades of each box will be installed, placing between the installed and the lower installed façade the gasket is a kind of template.

As such a gasket, I used 16 mm chipboard trims with a corrugated board gasket (3 mm) between them. The total turned out to be 35 mm (see photo, there is no corrugated board visible - it is laid between the chipboard parts.

The order of installation of each next front is the same as for the lower drawer. We just start by installing the front on a 35 mm high gasket template, not on drills.

After installing all the facades, make sure that the boxes are vertically and horizontally aligned when closed.

We finally fix the facades- screw the remaining screws 30 mm into the facades inside the boxes.

Finally, we fix the guides on the boxes. We screw the screws 4x16 mm into the round holes in the "halves" of the guides installed on the boxes. It is better to remove the boxes before this.

We put the boxes in their places in the frame.

So, all the boxes are installed and aligned (see photo).

We close (glue) with caps on self-adhesive paper the confirmation hats visible when the drawers are pulled out (see photo).

Moving on to the details from the profile for sliding doors built-in wardrobe.

This is the most common type of buttonhole. And since we are talking about updating kitchen set, consider the option of installing a hinge, with a built-in closer.

There is nothing difficult in installing a furniture hinge. But just before installation, you need to have an idea of ​​how this is done so as not to spoil the new facade.

Tools and accessories

So, we need:

• End mill, 35mm diameter
• Drill
• Screwdriver (or Phillips screwdriver)
• Pencil
• Shiloh or Kerner
• Building corner
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 16 4 pcs. on the loop
• Furniture hinge + strip

Calculation of the number of hinges per door

For high fronts, more than two hinges should be installed. See the picture below.

Facade preparation

Vertically the indent from the edge of the facade, depending on its height, is 70 - 150 mm.

The distance from the working side of the facade for a standard hinge, as a rule, is 21 - 22 mm

Drilling holes for a groove

The hole for the hinge is made using an end mill. Before drilling, you need to make a small indentation with a center punch or an awl. In order to eliminate the offset of the cutter from the center.

The thickness of the front is 16 - 18 mm. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the groove is no deeper than 12 mm and that the cut is uniform.

Install the loop into the groove

We adjust perpendicular to the edge of the facade. Then we outline the marks for the screws with a pencil and twist.

We fix the facade to the body

• Try on the sash to the body and mark the points of the future attachment.
• Install strikers (picture below) using a self-tapping screw 3.5 * 16.

It is most convenient to make a canopy from the upper hinge, because the facade is already fixed. And it will not be difficult for us to fix the facade and the lower plank.

Buttonhole adjustment

After we have installed the hinges and hung the facades, we need to adjust the gaps so that the doors do not cling to each other.

The design of the hinges with a closer allows for horizontal, height and depth adjustment.

First, you need to visually determine the roughness of the facade in relation to the body and whether the gap is even in relation to the adjacent door.

"Vertical adjustment"

We loosen the hinge screws, align the door and tighten it again. (Fig. 1)

Depth adjustment

That is, we adjust the gap between the body and the facade. We loosen the eccentric on the shoulder of the loop and adjust it back and forth, then tighten it back. (Fig. 2)

If you have any difficulties with installing facades on drawers, then use the instructions below:

• Assemble the frame of the box
• Screw the runners to the sides of the chest of drawers and the frame of the drawer
• We drive all the collected boxes inside IMPORTANT: WE DO NOT PUT FACADES!
• By using double-sided tape we align the facades along the walls, taking into account the gaps. In this case, the drawer is in the chest of drawers, and you do not need to remove it!

If the front part is exposed evenly, the boxes do not cling to each other, and all the gaps are observed, then we begin to fix the front to the box body. To do this, take out one drawer at a time and put it on the back panel with the front facing you. After that, with a 5mm drill, we drill through the box body through the hole on the front part and with inside we pull the facade through the handles.

Please note that the adhesive tape serves only to align the facades along the walls, taking into account the gaps, but the facades are fixed with screws through the handles!

Important: When installing the boxes, each of them must be returned to their place in the same sequence in which they were in point (3). It is very important not to violate this order, since when changing the positions of the boxes (the top box is put down and vice versa), there will be a problem with the fact that they will not snap into place.

If you still have questions about the assembly, then write to us by e-mail, and we will help you deal with all the moments that you do not understand.