Exhaust pipes are extremely important when creating a realistic looking model. Despite their small size and seeming simplicity, they are quite complex elements in the manufacture of any bench model - be it an airplane, tank or truck.

Considering that the parts of the cylinders in the plastic are a little "washed out" and look far from perfect, the main part of the engine is resin parts "Vector", with plastic standard parts of the pipes installed.

Simple drilling of the inner part of the branch pipe with suitable drills gave the required effect of "bent pipes", now it is up to their painting.

First of all, take a pastel crayon and cover it with a knife into a container prepared in advance. This way we get some dark gray powder. Obviously, the smaller the scale of your model, the smaller you will have to make its particles.

Then, using a brush or a toothpick, add the paint to the powder, stirring evenly until a homogeneous mud-like mass of brown-rusty color is obtained. Due to the dark color of the powder, the color of the paint will darken to the required state.

After that, with a brush, carefully apply the resulting mass to the required sections of the pipes and leave it for a while to completely dry the paint. I usually put it off overnight.

If you are too carried away by adding paint, and the pastels in the composition turned out to be less than necessary, then the details will shine a little. It's okay - matte varnish can save you and remove the treacherous shine of the paint.

Now there are small touches - depending on what you want, you can either emphasize the texture of the exhaust with the help of "dry

This time we will talk about the effect of rust on scale models. We invite you to get acquainted with the technique of imitating rust using pigments and a little oil paints.

Rust is an important part of a weather-based model, but as with other weather techniques, you can easily overdo it. When applying this effect, one must always be very careful and careful, work with an understanding of the causes of the appearance and development of corrosion, under what conditions it occurs. And you should always check the compliance of work with the standard.

Under real conditions, rust appears as a result of the reaction of metal elements of a car (for example) with oxygen. This reaction is enhanced by exposure to water (especially salty) or by high humidity... It should be borne in mind that a car abandoned on the coast will corrode differently than a car at war in the desert. The use of this weather technique must always correspond to the conditions of that environment, where the presence of this machine is implied.

We will try to briefly simulate four types of rust. In our examples, corrosion will be very quick and easy, so the results are easy to beat. But the purpose of the lesson is to get to know some simple techniques which give good rust with minimal effort.

Moderate rust on top of painted surface. Small rust marks will appear on the paint. This happens when water gets into the scratch, causing rust to develop.

Serious rust on top of the painted surface. Rust marks have been developing unhindered for some time, resulting in a kind of grooves and funnels on the surface of the paint. This type of corrosion is typical for cars left unattended in very humid conditions (or for equipment belonging to the army without order, of course ...).

Rusted metal. metal surface severely rusty.

Extremely rusty surface. This only happens if the car has been rusting for years under open air with very high humidity (say, in a swamp or coast).

Enough theory for now! Let's get some work done.

A rubber blank turned up under my arm, which perfectly suits our goals:

I hastily primed the surface with Vallejo gray paints and divided it into four areas. Since we're doing really fast painting, we don't need an airbrush. To make the paint dry faster, I use a hair dryer.

Effects 2 and 4 will need some texture base, so I've prepared some liquefied PVA glue.

Apply it over area # 4.

And then sprinkle some bicarbonate over this surface, brushing off the excess.

I also apply PVA glue in area # 2 where we need rust craters to pierce the paint. I put more bicarbonate into these grooves.

Now let's move on to painting. Let's start with the corrosive funnels in area # 2, and cover the entire area # 3 and # 4. In these cases, dark rust paint comes in handy. In our example I am using the Vallejo Panzer Aces302 Dark Rust product. Once it's dry, the primer is ready.

Now I protect the rust spots with a damp mask. I used Vallejo Liquid Mask for this, but Maskol or any similar product can be used.

It is best to apply the mask with a toothpick because this product literally sticks to the brushes, rendering them useless. I also apply a few drops of a moisturizing mask all over the place to further simulate erosion.

Now let's apply paint coatings. I mixed 50/50 acrylic and high gloss varnish. For our example, I used Tamiya X22 clear paint and XF55 tan.

Why do you need a glossy varnish? It grabs the paint better after it dries, and along the way also gives the surface a gloss, which is ideal for further simulating atmospheric effects. The only drawback is that the paint will cover a smaller area, but since we usually use an airbrush to apply it, this is not so important. We also need a more dense upper layer to cover the funnels in area # 2.

Since in the above example we are not using an airbrush, I applied a thin layer of paint, drying it with a hairdryer. This resulted in an unexpected and interesting effect: when the mixture of paint and varnish dried at an accelerated rate, it expanded some of the scratches (exposing the primer and texture). This effect is great for our purposes! Although one should be very careful with this when working with plastic model- plastic can literally melt!

Now carefully remove the wet mask layer using cutting tool and tweezers. Don't worry if parts of the wet mask remain around the edges - this is exactly the effect we are trying to achieve.

The result is in front of you.

Let's start working on the bare metal in area 3. To do this, sharpen the pencil lead over the primer and polish the graphite with your finger. You can also add some silver, but this is not really necessary.

Now let's get started with the good old pigments. I prefer MIG products for many reasons. Correct colors, small bubbles (it takes years to spend under normal use), and the price / performance ratio is the best on the market.
MIG Firm currently produces three types of fluids to simulate corrosion (as well as copper rust), but others can be used to achieve the desired shade. I usually use P230 (OldRust), P025 (Standard Rust), P024 (Light Rust), P033 (Dark Mud), and P031 (Vietnamese soil) Vietnam earth). However, you can play with other shades ... You never know what exactly will turn out: what if something new and interesting, as was the case with paint and a hairdryer.

Apply the remover by mixing it with unscented turpentine (Talens 089) and some “dark rust” P230. Instead of turpentine, you can knead alcohol, but since I do not intend to let the mixture dry overnight, I use everything that can save us at least a couple of seconds. Therefore, in our example, it is better to limit ourselves to the use of turpentine.

I apply the remover to the rusted surfaces, thinning it even further to create an uneven glaze around the painted areas.

Let the surface dry and repeat the procedure using P025 “Plain Rust” and dry the surface again. Then apply light rust P024. I thinned the wash a little more with each step. The photo shows the result after this stage and final drying.

Now let's take some dark brown oil paint (Dark Umber). I use Van Gogh oil paints in my work, but you can use any other brand. Should not be replaced oil paint on acrylic or gouache. Water-based mixes do not interact very well with the white spirit we are going to use. Also, water does not provide the necessary surface tension to create the effects we are interested in (once we applied a turpentine-based wash, there is no way back!).

I applied dark brown umber to the painted surfaces.

In theory, a low psi airbrush should be used to spray turpentine over an oily surface. Rusted dots will appear less bright and more natural. But this time too, I am not going to use a spray, but simply sprinkle a little turpentine over the painted areas with a pipette, and then very gently stir the drops with a point brush.

Here is the result of the work after the paint has dried. There is not enough shadow and variety - there is only a rust effect everywhere. Light rust turned out to be slightly excessive, so it would be worth darkening it a little with a dark wash. Finally, if the rust spots were on a vertical surface, I would add smudges to them instead of letting the spots focus on one point.

Last but not least ... My favorite technique. It would be possible to darken the rust a little more, add shadows and dust, but if you enlarge the image, you can see: this technique gives a very realistic texture effect of chipped paint. It lacks a more natural placement of rusty dents. With a little more work, the view would undoubtedly become much more realistic.

To achieve an amazing level of realism in the appearance of their prefabricated models, modellers resort to tinting, that is, different ways of painting certain areas or an entire model. For tinting, the most various paints and pigments, as well as dry pastels.

In order to understand how to tint a prefabricated model, you first need to study the features of using its prototype and find out what kind of weather troubles it was exposed to and even on what soil it moved.

What are the ways of toning the model?

There are ways of tinting great amount... We will focus on the most popular ones.

Blending(from the word blend - to mix) - a method of toning, which achieves the effect of a smooth transition from one shade to another without clear boundaries. Mixing is carried out using water or special diluents. This method is considered quite difficult, requiring some experience.

Color modulation- a method of obtaining deep and realistic shades. To achieve this effect, special paint sets are used. The model is painted with maximum attention to detail, all the nuances are thought out - how the shadow should lie, and where the highlights are located, and how best to place the accents. Thus, the model really looks three-dimensional and realistic. After painting the model, the colors are fixed with glossy or matt varnishes. If necessary, tinting can be continued using other methods.

Dry brushing(dry brush) - a technique used to simulate various defects, chips and natural abrasions on a prefabricated model. Painting is carried out with an almost completely dry brush. First, you need to dip the brush into the desired paint, then wipe it thoroughly on a napkin, getting rid of excess paint. When painting in this way, the main thing is not to overdo it. If there is too little paint on the brush, then you can always try again, but if there is a lot of it, the model may have to be completely repainted.

Highlightning- a method of tinting, in which you visually highlight certain elements of the model, "highlighting" them with light shades of paint. It is necessary to highlight the details smoothly, without clear boundaries between different colors.

Rust all- imitation of rust on the surface of the assembled model. Created using the special Rust All liquid that gave this method its name. The kit includes the liquid itself - "rust", the liquid - "remover", matt varnish and a dust simulator. This method allows you to visually age the prefabricated model and, in general, is quite an interesting technique that makes the models realistic. The difficulty is only in getting the kit itself for creating rust - as a rule, it is sold in a sufficiently limited number of stores.

Frosting Is a technique used to blur the boundaries between different shades, shadows and highlights. With its help, the contrast between different colors is smoothed, and the colors are muted. To do this, thin the paint very big amount water (approximately in a ratio of 1 to 6) and apply it in a thin layer on a layer of the base color. The resulting translucent shade will soften the transitions between colors.

Washing(waxing) is somewhat similar to glazing, some even confuse the two techniques. Washing - covering the base color with other, transparent shades in such a way that the base color only slightly bleeds through the subsequent ones. With the help of waxing, you can change the color or create the effect of shadows and reflections.

The term "washing" also refers to paint removal, which gives the impression of realism and volume of the assembled model. With the help of waxing, you can visually highlight any detail, element and seam. Exists different ways waxing. General, spot and soft waxing are the most popular among modelers, they are almost indispensable for toning scale models. Washing is also used to create camouflage effects.

Masking with salt- a method that allows you to simulate peeled paint on a model using ordinary salt, which replaces more expensive means. Salt solution is applied to the painted model in the necessary places. After it dries, paint is applied to its surface, after which it is necessary to remove the salt from the model with a soft cloth or napkin. On the treated area, you get the effect of peeled paint.

Preshading- tinting technique, which consists in applying dark paint lines to the prefabricated model even before the main coloring. Lines of brown and black tones are applied to the places where the shadow is supposed to be. After painting with the base color, these lines will show through slightly. To create this effect, it is best to use acrylic paints, since enamel paints have a denser structure.

Post shading differs from pre-shading in the sequence of actions. In post shading, as the name suggests, dark lines are applied to the model after it has been completely colored. The shadow effect is created using a special gray varnish in a low concentration, which results in a translucent effect. Post shading is different enough high level difficulties. The mistakes made with it are much more difficult to fix than with pre-shading. However, the result is definitely worth the effort - the post-shaded models look very realistic and professional.

Simulated rain tracks allows you to create the effect of a surface affected by atmospheric precipitation. A thin layer of special paint is applied to the painted model using an airbrush. Then you need to take a soft round brush and apply a very thinned paint on the surface of the model with vertical lines. Once dry, this step must be repeated, adding new lines on top of some of the old ones. Thus, on the surface of the model there will be a series of lines of different thickness and transparency. If you are satisfied with the result, then you just need to cover it with special paint sprayed from an airbrush. This technique takes experience, and it’s okay if you don’t get the desired effect on the first try.

There are many ways of tinting. Professional modelers try to combine several of them when working on scale models and achieve an amazing level of realism, depth and volume in the appearance of models. Their prefabricated tanks seemed to have really been in battles, managed to become covered not only with dust and dirt, but also with dents and scratches.

It takes practice to master a technique, and the more often you try to create the effect you want, the better you will get it. And then your models will also look like real miniature copies of their prototypes.

Modern trends sometimes require to give things and products a kind of “weathering”, which finds its expression in the fact that the model does not look like a newly acquired or assembled one, but has all the characteristics of the one that was already in use.

Giving the product "aging" is not at all a panacea, because to smooth out inaccuracies during assembly and painting.

To give a typical aging standard, a dark wash is successively applied to the product, which is subsequently lightened with a dry brush, thereby emphasizing individual details of the product.

The result of this creativity is the spectacular look of the model. The only question is how correct it looks after giving it such an effect so that unnecessary questions do not arise: why, when the part protrudes significantly from the surface of the armor, does it become lighter? To make "aging" natural, you need to achieve maximum repetition of several actions that occur in real life and then the thing will turn out to be contaminated with traces of use.

The inspiration for this project was a photograph of an M41 tank that was buried at the Cu Chi Tunnel Complex Museum in southern Vietnam.

When painting the model, you will notice that the tint steps contain layers of matte varnish. This will protect each subsequent layer. acrylic paint from the weathering process, and will also create a good contrast between the matt rust and corrosion color and the glossy finish of the original olive green paint.
The first step in painting the model was to apply a coat of Vallejo primer. Airbrush Badger Patriot Arrow was chosen for work (you can use any one).
In the next step, we will airbrush a pure steel color on the bottom. base coat... Steel color will show through base paint and corrosion. Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black and XF-27 Black Green were chosen for the primary colors. We cover this layer with a layer of transparent matte varnish, followed by the application of hairspray using the “Hairspray technique” (hairspray can be etched into a small jar and then applied from an airbrush). After the hairspray is completely dry, airbrush with Tamiya paints a mosaic of various rust tones. All paints are hand-picked, ranging from X-6 Orange and XF-4 Yellow Green to XF-9 Hull Red and XF-64 Red Brown. We paint in random order to add variety and unbalanced appearance.
After everything is dry, we begin to remove with a hard brush and warm water some layers of rust. It is important to treat one area at a time and apply spots in a random and unbalanced manner. Repeat this step to create more depth and add more rust tones.

Next, we cover a layer of rust and corrosion with a matte varnish.
Now it's time to airbrush the base color - Olive Drab Green. Next, we will create the effect of the main base color burnt out in the sun.
To do this, we use the main color modulation effect and give more life models. ( Color modulation/ Color modulation /- these are transitions of color tones in order to add shades and highlight individual important areas of the model. The main task of color modulation is to make the model more spectacular and volumetric by applying different colors. This is achieved through the heavy use of light and shade, distributing shades over surfaces depending on how real light falls on them and emphasizing details. Approx. translator). Mix Tamiya XF-58 Olive Green, XF-27 Black Green and X-2 White in different proportions and select the most brightly lit areas (the lower parts of the model are darker, the upper ones are lighter). Add X-22 varnish to the paint mixture. The mixture is applied to a glossy surface, which will create a good contrast to the matte corrosion underneath.

Into the main modulated olive green color(Olive Drab Green) Apply chips and paint peeling in exactly the same way as the previous layers of rust.
For all the aging, wear and tear effects, remove the main olive green color with warm water, a hard brush and a toothpick.
Treat one area at a time! It is important to avoid any kind of symmetry in the chips on different areas of the tank model. At this stage, many structures and effects begin to appear, creating an interesting and realistic look for the model.

At the next stage, we prepare a wash made on the basis of "dirt smudges" ( Streaking grime) and thinned with paint thinner. Apply this wash to all recessed areas and trim lines.
Next, we show the dirt and mud smudges, which we apply with the help of “mud smudges” and “winter smudges of mud” from AK Interactive (various smudges from AK Interactive are ready-made diluted mixtures. Approx. translator). Using a brush and clean solvent, paint the stripes from top to bottom. We go from one side to the other. Doing one pass at a time! Clean up the brush before the next pass. This technique can be repeated until many light and rich bands are obtained.
Apply a thin layer of dust to horizontal surfaces using the “dust effect”, and also apply traces of rain smudges. Rain smudges are applied to vertical surfaces from the top towards the bottom of the tank. (Apply a rain drip as follows. First, draw a full-fledged vertical strip with saturated paint, and then shade with a brush soaked in solvent until the desired state. This operation can be repeated. Approx. translator).
This step shows the strong effect of weather on the tank, and also creates a "filter" for the base colors, subtly changing the tones of the main olive green color (about filters and washes was described in the article).

An important step in this project was to go back to the base areas of the rust and enhance them with enamel and pigments. Rust spots and streaks in vertical areas were created using rust streaks from AK-Interactive. The stripes are applied with a thin brush, left on for a few minutes, and then stretched downward with a pointed brush. It is important that the brush is wet on the napkin and remains damp and not soaked in solvent. Use the edge of the brush to refine the stripes.

Consolidated areas of rust on horizontal surfaces were created using rust and brown pigments. These effects are used to give the rust tones more realism and add more variety and texture to the previous rust tones created earlier with the “hairspray technique”.
The photo shows the barrel of the gun, on which pigments are applied, which are fixed with drops of solvent mixed with matte varnish.

On the final stage toning and vesing the model, let's give it a little more variety with light and dark rust spots. Apply tiny dots of paint using a thin brush and the same Tamiya rust colors used in the previous steps.
Since previous paint applications changed the weathering process, we can use these colors again to add even more life-like realism to corroded areas.

The final image shows a fully finished model of the M41 tank on the stand. Next to the model is a photograph of a real M41 tank stationed in the Cu Chi Tunnel complex today.

Iain Hamilton (http://ak-interactive.blogspot.com)
Translation and notes: Ariors

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