This time we will talk about the effect of rust on scale models... We invite you to get acquainted with the technique of imitating rust using pigments and a little oil paints.

Rust is an important part of a weather-based model, but as with other weather techniques, you can easily overdo it. When applying this effect, one must always be very careful and careful, work with an understanding of the causes of the appearance and development of corrosion, under what conditions it occurs. And you should always check the compliance of work with the standard.

Under real conditions, rust appears as a result of the reaction of metal elements of a car (for example) with oxygen. This reaction is enhanced by exposure to water (especially salty) or by high humidity... It should be borne in mind that a car abandoned on the coast will corrode differently than a car at war in the desert. The use of this weather technique must always correspond to the conditions of that environment, where the presence of this machine is implied.

We will try to briefly simulate four types of rust. In our examples, corrosion will be very quick and easy, so the results are easy to beat. But the purpose of the lesson is to get to know some simple techniques which give good rust with minimal effort.

Moderate rust on top of painted surface. Small rust marks will appear on the paint. This happens when water gets into the scratch, causing rust to develop.

Serious rust on top of the painted surface. Rust marks have been developing unhindered for some time, resulting in a kind of grooves and funnels on the surface of the paint. This type of corrosion is typical for cars left unattended in very humid conditions (or for equipment belonging to the army without order, of course ...).

Rusted metal. metal surface severely rusty.

Extremely rusty surface. This only happens if the car has been rusting for years under open air with very high humidity (say, in a swamp or coast).

Enough theory for now! Let's get some work done.

A rubber blank turned up under my arm, which perfectly suits our goals:

I hastily primed the surface with Vallejo gray paints and divided it into four areas. Since we're doing really fast painting, we don't need an airbrush. To make the paint dry faster, I use a hair dryer.

Effects 2 and 4 will need some texture base, so I've prepared some liquefied PVA glue.

Apply it over area # 4.

And then sprinkle some bicarbonate over this surface, brushing off the excess.

I also apply PVA glue in area # 2 where we need rust craters to pierce the paint. I put more bicarbonate into these grooves.

Now let's move on to painting. Let's start with the corrosive funnels in area # 2, and cover the entire area # 3 and # 4. In these cases, dark rust paint comes in handy. In our example I am using the Vallejo Panzer Aces302 Dark Rust product. Once it's dry, the primer is ready.

Now I protect the rust spots with a damp mask. I used Vallejo Liquid Mask for this, but Maskol or any similar product can be used.

It is best to apply the mask with a toothpick because this product literally sticks to the brushes, rendering them useless. I also apply a few drops of a moisturizing mask all over the place to further simulate erosion.

Now let's apply paint coatings. I mixed acrylic paint and a 50/50 high gloss varnish. For our example I used Tamiya X22 clear paint and XF55 yellow-brown paint.

Why do you need a glossy varnish? It grabs the paint better after it dries, and along the way also gives the surface a gloss, which is ideal for further simulating atmospheric effects. The only drawback is that the paint will cover a smaller area, but since we usually use an airbrush to apply it, this is not so important. We also need a more dense upper layer to cover the funnels in area # 2.

Since in the above example we are not using an airbrush, I applied a thin layer of paint, drying it with a hairdryer. This resulted in an unexpected and interesting effect: when the mixture of paint and varnish dried at an accelerated rate, it expanded some of the scratches (exposing the primer and texture). This effect is great for our purposes! Although one should be very careful with this when working with plastic model- plastic can literally melt!

Now carefully remove the wet mask layer using cutting tool and tweezers. Don't worry if parts of the wet mask remain around the edges - this is exactly the effect we are trying to achieve.

The result is in front of you.

Let's start working on the bare metal in area 3. To do this, sharpen the pencil lead over the primer and polish the graphite with your finger. You can also add some silver, but this is not really necessary.

Now let's get started with the good old pigments. I prefer products by MIG for many reasons. Correct colors, small bubbles (it takes years to spend under normal use), and the price / performance ratio is the best on the market.
MIG currently produces three types of fluids to simulate corrosion (as well as copper rust), but others can be used to achieve the desired shade. I usually use P230 (OldRust), P025 (Standard Rust), P024 (Light Rust), P033 (Dark Mud), and P031 (Vietnamese soil) Vietnam earth). However, you can play with other shades ... You never know what exactly will turn out: what if something new and interesting, as was the case with paint and a hairdryer.

Apply the remover by mixing it with unscented turpentine (Talens 089) and some “dark rust” P230. Instead of turpentine, you can knead alcohol, but since I do not intend to let the mixture dry overnight, I use everything that can save us at least a couple of seconds. Therefore, in our example, it is better to limit ourselves to the use of turpentine.

I apply the remover to the rusted surfaces, thinning it even further to create an uneven glaze around the painted areas.

Let the surface dry and repeat the procedure using P025 “Plain Rust” and dry the surface again. Then apply light rust P024. I thinned the wash a little more with each step. The photo shows the result after this stage and final drying.

Now let's take some dark brown oil paint (Dark Umber). I use Van Gogh oil paints in my work, but you can use any other brand. Should not be replaced oil paint on acrylic or gouache. Water-based mixes do not interact very well with the white spirit we are going to use. Also, water does not provide the necessary surface tension to create the effects we are interested in (once we applied a turpentine-based wash, there is no way back!).

I applied dark brown umber to the painted surfaces.

In theory, a low psi airbrush should be used to spray turpentine over an oily surface. Rusted dots will appear less bright and more natural. But this time too, I am not going to use a spray, but simply sprinkle a little turpentine over the painted areas with a pipette, and then very gently stir the drops with a point brush.

Here is the result of the work after the paint has dried. There is not enough shadow and variety - there is only a rust effect everywhere. Light rust turned out to be slightly excessive, so it would be worth darkening it a little with a dark wash. Finally, if the rust stains were on vertical surface I would add smudges to them instead of letting the spots focus on one point.

Last but not least ... My favorite technique. It would be possible to darken the rust a little more, add shadows and dust, but if you enlarge the image, you can see: this technique gives a very realistic texture effect of chipped paint. It lacks a more natural placement of rusty dents. With a little more work, the view would undoubtedly become much more realistic.

V recent years the rusty color is gaining more and more popularity. You can achieve this color in one of two ways: to imitate rusting, or to rust the metal naturally. How to make rust different ways, will be discussed below.

Natural rust

This article does not take into account the natural rusting of the metal, which gradually occurs with it under the influence of the environment. You can accelerate the appearance of natural rust by chemical reaction which will corrode the metal.

First of all, you need to make sure that the metal to be rusted is susceptible to corrosion. Metals containing iron are prone to rust. However, many materials are resistant to rust, such as stainless steel or chrome alloys. Wrought iron and cast iron lend themselves well to corrosion.

Copper acid solution

Instructions:

Vinegar and bleach solution

This technique is best suited for iron or tin based metals. Prerequisite: the surface must not be primed or covered with sealant.

Instructions:

1. Mix part of the vinegar with two parts of bleach in the container.
2. We place the metal in the container so that it is completely immersed. We are waiting for about half an hour. After this period, rust will appear on the surface.
3. We wipe the material with a rag.
4. Until the item is completely dry, direct contact with it should be avoided to avoid damaging the skin with chlorine.
5. We fix the rust with a primer. The easiest way is to apply a primer in an aerosol can.

other methods

The above are the most common methods for accelerating corrosive processes. However, there are other ways as well.

Rusting with hydrogen peroxide and salt:

1. Pour the peroxide into the container. It is advisable to use a spray bottle as this is the easiest way to apply liquid to the material.
2. We spray metal well.
3. Sprinkle salt on the wet surface. The metal will start to rust almost immediately. The intensity of rusting depends on the amount of salt.
4. Let the metal dry in the fresh air. The surface must not be wiped off before it is dry, otherwise the rusting will be very uneven. Wipe the surface only after it is completely dry.

Rusting with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar:

1. We clean the surface (if necessary).
2. Spray peroxide over the surface from a spray bottle.
3. Spray vinegar on metal.
4. We are waiting for several hours until rust appears.

Rusting with lemon juice and salt:

1. Mix 4 parts lemon juice with 1 part table salt.
2. We process the cleaned surface with a solution. Rust marks will appear soon.

It is not necessary to spoil the material in order to obtain the rust effect. It is possible to simulate rusting. Moreover, you can give a rusty look to both metal and other materials, in particular wood.

Rust paint

A rusty hue is formed by mixing red, yellow and brown pigments. You can also add a little blue to give the coating some brightness and depth.

There is a natural pigment that makes it possible to get a rusty shade without any. This pigment is called ocher (another name is iron red lead), which is a mixture of clay and iron oxide hydrate.

Natural conservation is not independent species paints. This is just a component that is added in one way or another to paints and varnishes(paints, enamels) and primers. In addition to this component, other substances are also present in paints.

The pigment has the following characteristics:

• hiding power - from 60 to 80 grams per square meter;
• oil absorption - from 25 to 35 grams per 100 grams of substance;
• The PH of the water extract is from 7 to 8.

Ocher is characterized by resistance to aggressive chemicals(organic solvents, acids, alkalis), as well as resistance to light and moisture.

Imitation film

You can give the metal a rusty look using a special film. Below are instructions for its use:

1. Degrease the surface with alcohol.
2. Trying on the elements of the film to the surface.
3. We moisten the metal from a special spray bottle. The film will stick to a damp surface better.
4. We tear off the film from the substrate.
5. We glue the middle part of the canvas first, and then level the edges along the surface.
6. Dry the glued film with a hairdryer.

Rust effect on wooden furniture

Imitation of rust can be carried out not only on metal, but also on wood.

Necessary materials:

• paint (2 types);
• salt;
• sandpaper;

One of the paints should be as similar as possible to rust. The second paint acts as the main one; it should be suitable for furniture and other accessories in the room.

Before applying the rust-colored paint, we clean the surface of the wood from all defects. You can also varnish wood. Next, paint the furniture with rust-like paint and wait until the surface dries slightly. Apply a layer of sodium chloride to the still wet surface.

When the surface with the salt applied to it dries, apply the base paint. We are waiting for the surface to dry. After that, remove the salt with fine-grained sandpaper. Failure to remove all the salt will result in a slight roughness effect that will accentuate the rusty color. The last step is to treat the wood with a protective layer of varnish.

The rust effect will give any product a completely unique, unrepeatable look. And you can do all this with your own hands. The main thing in the process of work is to observe technological process and adhere to protective measures, as in many cases it will be necessary to work with chemicals that are unsafe to health.

The rusty color is often used to give a surface a particularly attractive look. Rust paint will help to get this shade. There are also options for obtaining natural rust or its imitation. The methods of obtaining a surface "under rust" will be discussed in this article.

Content:

• Dye
• Corrosion of metal
• Copper acid solution
• Bleach and vinegar mixture
• Other rust options
• Imitation rust
• Film
• Rust effect on wood

Dye

A rusty hue is formed by mixing red, yellow and brown pigments. You can also add a little blue to give the coating some brightness and depth.

There is a natural pigment that, without any mixing different colors makes it possible to get a rusty tint. This pigment is called ocher (another name is iron red lead), which is a mixture of clay and iron oxide hydrate.

Natural ocher is not a separate type of paint. This is just a component that is added in varying amounts to paints and varnishes (paints, enamels) and primers. In addition to this component, other substances are also present in paints.

The pigment has the following characteristics:

• hiding power - from 60 to 80 grams per square meter;
• oil absorption - from 25 to 35 grams per 100 grams of substance;
• The PH of the water extract is from 7 to 8.

Ocher is characterized by resistance to aggressive chemicals (organic solvents, acids, alkalis), as well as resistance to light and moisture.

Corrosion of metal

In this part of the article, we will show you how to make rust by accelerating corrosion processes. This can be done through a chemical reaction that will provoke rapid rusting of the material.

It should be borne in mind that corrosion develops only in those metals that contain iron. However, even in this case, not all iron-containing metals can easily rust. For example, don't mess with chrome alloys or stainless steel... But ordinary steel and cast iron rust very quickly.

To carry out a chemical reaction, you will need to make a copper-acid solution. A mixture of bleach and vinegar is also effective.

Copper acid solution

We prepare the chemical solution as follows:

Note! The hydrochloric acid solution does not need to be washed off, as it will evaporate after a while anyway.

Bleach and vinegar mixture

This method is best used for rusting materials with added tin. At the same time, there is an important clarification: the metal must not be primed or sealed before applying the solution.

Procedure:

Other rust options

You can provoke corrosion with hydrogen peroxide and salt as follows:

Another way to form a rusty metal color is to treat the metal with vinegar and hydrogen peroxide:

Finally, the metal can be rusted with lemon salt solution:

Imitation rust

A rusty color can be obtained without paint and without changing the properties of the metal. Moreover, you can give a rusty look to both metal and other materials, in particular wood.

Film

In this case, a rusty film must be applied to the surface of the material. To do this, do the following:

Rust effect on wood

It is also possible to simulate traces of corrosion on wood. This effect is especially often used on pieces of furniture.

You will need the following components:

• paint (two varieties);
• salt;
• sandpaper.

One type of paint should have a rusty color (based on ocher). Another paint is basic, as its color should be combined with the general background of the room.

Before painting, we clean the surface from defects and traces of paint. After sanding, you can apply a coat of varnish (optional). After that we apply a layer of "rusty" paint and wait for the surface to dry. Until the coating has hardened, we treat it with salt.

So, you can make the surface look "under rust" by the most different ways... Which one to choose depends on the task at hand, the type of material and the means at hand.

The inspiration for this project was a photograph of an M41 tank that was buried at the Cu Chi Tunnel Complex Museum in southern Vietnam.

When painting the model, you will notice that the tint steps contain layers of matte varnish. This will protect each subsequent layer of acrylic from the weathered process and will also create a good contrast between the matt rust and corrosion colors and the glossy finish of the original olive green paint.
The first step in painting the model was to apply a coat of Vallejo primer. Airbrush Badger Patriot Arrow was chosen for work (you can use any one).
In the next step, we will airbrush a pure steel color on the bottom. base coat... Steel color will show through base paint and corrosion. Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black and XF-27 Black Green were chosen for the primary colors. We cover this layer with a layer of transparent matte varnish, followed by the application of hairspray using the “Hairspray technique” (hairspray can be etched into a small jar and then applied from an airbrush). After the hairspray is completely dry, airbrush with Tamiya paints a mosaic of various rust tones. All paints are hand-picked, ranging from X-6 Orange and XF-4 Yellow Green to XF-9 Hull Red and XF-64 Red Brown. We paint in random order to add variety and unbalanced appearance.
After everything is dry, we begin to remove with a hard brush and warm water some layers of rust. It is important to treat one area at a time and apply spots in a random and unbalanced manner. Repeat this step to create more depth and add more rust tones.

Next, we cover a layer of rust and corrosion with a matte varnish.
Now it's time to airbrush the base color - Olive Drab Green. Next, we will create the effect of the main base color burnt out in the sun.
To do this, we use the main color modulation effect and give more life models. ( Color modulation/ Color modulation /- these are transitions of color tones in order to add shades and highlight individual important areas of the model. The main task of color modulation is to make the model more spectacular and volumetric by applying different colors. This is achieved through the heavy use of light and shade, distributing shades over surfaces depending on how real light falls on them and emphasizing details. Approx. translator). Mix the Tamiya XF-58 Olive Green, XF-27 Black Green and X-2 White paints in different proportions and select the most brightly lit areas (the lower parts of the model are darker, the upper ones are lighter). Add X-22 varnish to the paint mixture. The mixture is applied to a glossy surface, which will create a good contrast to the matte corrosion underneath.

Into the main modulated olive green color(Olive Drab Green) Apply chips and paint peeling in exactly the same way as the previous layers of rust.
For all the aging, wear and tear effects, remove the main olive green color with warm water, a hard brush and a toothpick.
Treat one area at a time! It is important to avoid any kind of symmetry in the chips on different areas of the tank model. At this stage, many structures and effects begin to appear, creating an interesting and realistic look for the model.

At the next stage, we prepare a wash made on the basis of "dirt smudges" ( Streaking grime) and thinned with paint thinner. Apply this wash to all recessed areas and trim lines.
Next, we show the dirt and mud smudges, which we apply using “mud smudges” and “winter smudges of mud” from AK Interactive (various smudges from AK Interactive are ready-made diluted mixtures. Approx. translator). Using a brush and clean solvent, paint the stripes from top to bottom. We go from one side to the other. Doing one pass at a time! Clean up the brush before the next pass. This technique can be repeated until many light and rich bands are obtained.
Apply a thin layer of dust to horizontal surfaces using the “dust effect”, and also apply traces of rain smudges. Rain drips are applied to vertical surfaces from the top towards the bottom of the tank. (Apply a rain drip as follows. First, draw a full-fledged vertical strip with saturated paint, and then shade with a brush soaked in solvent until the desired state. This operation can be repeated. Approx. translator).
This step shows the strong effect of weather on the tank, and also creates a "filter" for the base colors, subtly changing the tones of the main olive green color (about filters and washes was described in the article).

An important step in this project was to go back to the base areas of the rust and enhance them with enamel and pigments. Rust spots and streaks in vertical areas were created using rust streaks from AK-Interactive. The stripes are applied with a thin brush, left on for a few minutes, and then stretched downward with a pointed brush. It is important that the brush is wet on the napkin and remains damp and not soaked in solvent. Use the edge of the brush to refine the stripes.

Consolidated areas of rust on horizontal surfaces were created using rust and brown pigments. These effects are used to give the rust tones more realism and add more variety and texture to the previous rust tones created earlier with the “hairspray technique”.
The photo shows the barrel of the gun, on which pigments are applied, which are fixed with drops of solvent mixed with matte varnish.

On the final stage toning and vesing the model, let's give it a little more variety with light and dark rust spots. Apply tiny dots of paint using a thin brush and the same Tamiya rust colors used in the previous steps.
Since previous paint applications changed the weathering process, we can use these colors again to add even more life-like realism to corroded areas.

The final image shows a fully finished model of the M41 tank on the stand. Next to the model is a photograph of a real M41 tank stationed in the Cu Chi Tunnel complex today.

Iain Hamilton (http://ak-interactive.blogspot.com)
Translation and notes: Ariors

Copying and publication of articles is allowed only with a direct active link to the site

From the editorial board RUScmd: Again, we offer a translation of an interesting lesson on imitation of rust. The author, Ultrawerke, from the Canary Islands, Spain, shares his skills in corrosive coating. Feature of the lesson - minimum costs time, four different options depending on the type of rust (light corrosion, equipment that has not been cleaned for a long time, severe corrosion, as well as rust that has been deeply rooted in several years). The author deliberately decided to build on the most simple terms- he basically did not use an airbrush in his work, used available chemistry, and spoke in detail about possible mistakes at work. Thanks to the Ultrawerke modeler for a great tutorial, lively text and cute photos!
This time we will talk about the effect of rust on scale models. We invite you to get acquainted with the technique of imitating rust using pigments and a little oil paints.

Rust is an important part of a weather-based model, but as with other weather techniques, you can easily overdo it. When applying this effect, one must always be very careful and careful, work with an understanding of the causes of the appearance and development of corrosion, under what conditions it occurs. And you should always check the compliance of work with the standard.

Under real conditions, rust appears as a result of the reaction of metal elements of a car (for example) with oxygen. This reaction is enhanced by exposure to water (especially salty water) or high humidity. It should be borne in mind that a car abandoned on the coast will corrode differently than a car at war in the desert. The use of this weather technique must always be appropriate for the environmental conditions in which the machine is intended to be present.

We will try to briefly simulate four types of rust. In our examples, corrosion will be very quick and easy, so the results are easy to beat. But the goal of this tutorial is to introduce you to some simple techniques that will produce good rust with minimal effort.

Moderate rust on top of painted surface... Small rust marks will appear on the paint. This happens when water gets into the scratch, causing rust to develop.

Serious rust on top of the painted surface... Rust marks have been developing unhindered for some time, resulting in a kind of grooves and funnels on the surface of the paint. This type of corrosion is typical for cars left unattended in very humid conditions (or for equipment belonging to the army without order, of course ...).

Corroded metal. Bare metal surface with severe rust.

Extremely rusty surface... This only happens if the car has been rusting for years in the open air in very high humidity (say, in a swamp or on the coast).

Enough theory for now! Let's get some work done.

A rubber blank turned up under my arm, which perfectly suits our goals:

I hastily primed the surface with Vallejo gray paints and divided it into four areas. Since we're doing really fast painting, we don't need an airbrush. To make the paint dry faster, I use a hair dryer.

Effects 2 and 4 will need some texture base, so I've prepared some liquefied PVA glue.

Apply it over area # 4.

And then sprinkle some bicarbonate over this surface, brushing off the excess.

I also apply PVA glue in area # 2 where we need rust "craters" to pierce the paint. I put more bicarbonate into these grooves.

Now let's move on to painting. Let's start with the corrosive funnels in area # 2, and cover the entire area # 3 and # 4. In these cases, dark rust paint comes in handy. In our example I am using the Vallejo Panzer Aces 302 Dark Rust product. Once it's dry, the primer is ready.

Now I protect the rust spots with a damp mask. I used Vallejo Liquid Mask for this, but Maskol or any similar product can be used.

It is best to apply the mask with a toothpick because this product literally sticks to the brushes, rendering them useless. I also apply a few drops of a moisturizing mask all over the place to further simulate erosion.

Now let's apply paint coatings. I mixed 50/50 acrylic and high gloss varnish. For our example I used Tamiya X 22 clear paint and XF 55 tan.

Why do you need a glossy varnish? It grabs the paint better after it dries, and along the way also gives the surface a gloss, which is ideal for further simulating atmospheric effects. The only drawback is that the paint will cover a smaller area, but since we usually use an airbrush to apply it, this is not so important. We also need a denser top coat to cover the funnels in area # 2.

Since in the above example we are not using an airbrush, I applied a thin layer of paint, drying it with a hairdryer. This resulted in an unexpected and interesting effect: when the mixture of paint and varnish dried at an accelerated rate, it expanded some of the scratches (exposing the primer and texture). This effect is great for our purposes! Although you should be very careful with this when working with a plastic model - plastic can literally melt!

Now carefully remove the wet mask layer using a cutting tool and tweezers. Don't worry if parts of the wet mask remain around the edges - this is exactly the effect we are trying to achieve.

The result is in front of you.

Let's start working on the bare metal in area 3. To do this, sharpen the pencil lead over the primer and polish the graphite with your finger. You can also add some silver, but this is not really necessary.

Now let's get started with the good old pigments. I prefer MIG products for many reasons. The colors are correct, the bubbles are small (it takes years to spend with normal use), and the price / performance ratio is the best on the market.

MIG currently produces three types of fluids to simulate corrosion (as well as copper rust), but others can be used to achieve the desired shade. I usually use "old rust" P 230 (Old Rust), "ordinary rust" P 025 (Standard Rust), "light rust" P 024 (Light Rust), "dark clay" P 033 (Dark Mud), as well as " Vietnamese soil "P 031 (Vietnam earth). However, you can play with other shades ... You never know what exactly will turn out: what if something new and interesting, as was the case with paint and a hairdryer.

Let's apply a remover, mixing it with odorless turpentine (Talens 089) and a little "dark rust" P 230. Instead of turpentine, you can mix alcohol, but since I do not intend to let the mixture dry overnight, I use everything that can save us at least a couple of seconds. Therefore, in our example, it is better to limit ourselves to the use of turpentine.

I apply the remover to the rusted surfaces, thinning it even further to create an uneven glaze around the painted areas.

Let the surface dry and repeat the procedure using "ordinary rust" P 025, dry the surface again. Then apply "light rust" P 024. With each step I thinned the wash a little more. The photo shows the result after this stage and final drying.

Now let's take some dark brown oil paint (Dark Umber). I use Van Gogh oil paints in my work, but you can use any other brand. Do not replace oil paint with acrylic or gouache. Water-based mixes do not interact very well with the white spirit we are going to use. Also, water does not provide the necessary surface tension to create the effects we are interested in (once we applied a turpentine-based wash, there is no way back!).

I applied dark brown umber to the painted surfaces.

In theory, a low psi airbrush should be used to spray turpentine over an oily surface. Rusted dots will appear less bright and more natural. But this time too, I am not going to use a spray, but simply sprinkle a little turpentine over the painted areas with a pipette, and then very gently stir the drops with a point brush.

Here is the result of the work after the paint has dried. There is not enough shadow and variety - there is only a rust effect everywhere. Light rust turned out to be slightly excessive, so it would be worth darkening it a little with a dark wash. Finally, if the rust spots were on a vertical surface, I would add smudges to them instead of letting the spots focus on one point.

Open metal area. I can't add anything, although in the given example it looks boring. Here I would add a little dust and more rust shades.

Extremely corroded surface - easiest to model. It turned out a little monotonous ... Probably, you need to add a little light wash, then other colors will be added.

Last but not least ... My favorite technique. It would be possible to darken the rust a little more, add shadows and dust, but if you enlarge the image, you can see: this technique gives a very realistic texture effect of chipped paint. It lacks a more natural placement of rusty dents. With a little more work, the view would undoubtedly become much more realistic.