Every real man has a puncher at home or in the garage. But whatever your "gold" and neat hands, sooner or later your loud "assistant" breaks down. The repair of such a device is rarely located near the house, so often The best way- try to fix it yourself.

In this article, we will look at how to quickly determine the cause of the malfunction and fix the equipment at home.

Features of maintenance of the punch

Any deviation from a good job is already a warning that something is wrong. If your instrument does not work as before, but with some errors, then you can always find out the reason yourself. But for this you need to understand how the perforator works from the inside.

When buying a device, especially an expensive and branded one, the client first of all pays attention to quality. After all, I really want the device to serve for a long time. But regardless of the price and manufacturer, there are always two parts: electrical and mechanical.

The part of the breakdown will depend on the features of the repair.

When disassembling and repairing a punch with your own hands, you need to know the characteristics of the apparatus, how the engine is installed: vertically or horizontally.

If the rotor is installed vertically, then such rock drills are called barrel rock drills.... Their peculiarity is that they work on the principle of a crank-connecting rod percussion mechanism. This tool is heavier, but also powerful. It should be borne in mind that because of this, the vertical rock drill needs more lubrication to keep it in order.

Rotary hammers, where the engine is horizontal, are less fancy and more convenient to use. Such a tool is ideal for home renovations.

When you've learned all this, it's time to understand what's inside. The electrical part is always closer to the place where you need to hold the hammer drill. It houses the "heart" of our striking mechanism - the engine. In addition, this part contains a power button, structures that absorb interference, and a power cord.

The mechanical part includes the percussion mechanism itself, the gearbox and the cartridge. These are the main details of this part. Sometimes new mechanisms are added to improve the model: different modes of operation, a vacuum cleaner and other additions.

Identifying faults

As noted, some problems can be identified immediately. The main thing is to understand in which part of the puncher the problem was formed.

If you smell a burning smell, the instrument has become too noisy or heats up quickly, there is a grinding noise or smoke already appears, then these are signs that your repair tool is not working properly.

If you understand that the problem is in the electrical part, then be careful. Check that the rock drill is de-energized otherwise, the repair of such a tool is dangerous not only for itself, but also for your health.

When the hammer drill refuses to turn on, the breakdown is electrical and you should check for broken wires. In this case, first determine where exactly the wire broke, then replace it or shorten it at the break.

If the perforator is loaded too much, the extinguishing mechanism may burn out.... Then you will have to replace all burnt parts.

Take breaks from work to prevent this. For example, stop the appliance after every 20 minutes of continuous operation.

If something sparkles inside, then most likely the problem is in the brushes.... They either do not fit tightly to the anchor, or moisture got there and they began to oxidize. Then optimal solution will replace them.

If the water has already hit the anchor, then you will have to carefully dry everything, but so as not to spoil the winding as well. To do this, use a cotton swab and alcohol.

An additional sign of brush problems is smoke.... This means that these devices are worn out, and the wires are in contact with the anchor. In this case, the brushes should be replaced with new.

Besides, smoke may mean that there is a malfunction in the motor - it sticks, heats up and smoke comes out of it. Malfunctions in the mechanical part are in most cases determined by ear. Noise and grinding noise are the main symptoms of a problem in this part of the hammer drill. Fixing troubles here is much easier and safer for your health.

Most frequent symptom that there was a problem - a decrease in productivity. Often it is because of the breakdown of the switch that the hammer drill stops hammering. It is worth replacing the power button for further work.

Another possible reason for the deterioration of the level of performance can be the contamination of the device. To correct the problem, the instrument must be cleaned and lubricated.

To prevent a malfunction, after each use of the tool, it is necessary to wipe at least its surface from dust and pieces of brick.

In addition, there are often problems with the striking mechanism itself. But to determine the exact cause, it is necessary to examine the entire part as the problem can be in the drill or in the small iron ball inside the chuck. Therefore, to repair the percussion mechanism, one should look for the cause in the entire mechanical part of the device.

Disassembly algorithm

Do not forget that the hammer drill can only be repaired in a de-energized mode! Due to the similarity in internal composition the main part of the hammer drills, the scheme for parsing the tool is approximately the same. To start disassembling the device, if no external faults are observed, it should be from the cartridge.

• rubber boot;
• retaining ring (using a screwdriver);
• plastic boot;
• washer;
• plate;
• spring;
• small metal ball.

When the last four parts are worn out, the barrel cannot stay in the chuck and begins to fall out. To fix this, it is necessary to replace the broken part, and clean and lubricate the rest of the parts.

The next part in the parsing algorithm is the body... The first thing to do is remove the switch. To do this, it must be transferred to the "Impact" state, indicated by the drawn hammer. Then, holding the button on this mechanism, turn until it clicks.

To complete the removal, take a screwdriver, use it to pry the switch and remove it. In order to get to an electrical fault, it is worth removing the plastic case.

Replacing the button and brushes

The malfunction of the brushes and the need to replace them is indicated by a pronounced burning smell emanating during the operation of the perforator. Brushes wear out for long periods of time, sparkle, and may even start to burn. In this case, they should be replaced.

The brushes are in the electrical part, so after removing the plastic case and disassembling to the brush assembly, you need to get the old brushes out from under the lock and replace them with new ones. Now, some manufacturers immediately put spare brushes in the kit, which simplifies the task for the average user.

It is much easier to change the switch button, but it does not come with an additional kit. It is enough to disconnect the damaged button in the disassembled case, and put a new one in its place.

Sometimes the problem with the switch is not so serious, and some experts advise you to simply rotate the button 180 degrees and continue to use. But this life hack only helps if the problems are minor.

The device and repair of the percussion mechanism

It has already been mentioned that rock drills differ in the location of the engine in them. And, therefore, such devices will have different repair schemes.

In a pistol hammer drill, the motor or rotor is horizontal. And the most common reason breakage is wear or seizure of the bearings. The wear problem can be solved by replacing parts, but bearings in each rock drill are often individually arranged.

The peculiarity of the barrel rock drill is the vertical position of the rotor. In such instruments it is often necessary to check parts for wear and replace them, otherwise it will feel like the punch has broken.

Special attention it is worth giving lubrication, since the hammer drill is a powerful device, and parts, due to the lack of a sliding coating, become unusable much faster.

Elimination of other breakdowns

In addition to problems with buttons, brushes and impact mechanism, there are a number of other malfunctions that can be repaired and repaired at home. And this will also require the ability to disassemble the puncher.

Stuck drill

If the drill does not hold in the chuck, then it is worth paying attention to the small metal ball. Replace it or the retaining spring... If the drill gets stuck, the problem is not enough lubrication.

When the drill is not inserted or pulled out, the problem lies in the small details. Disassemble the mechanical part and see the cause of the breakdown. As in the case when the drill is dangling in the chuck, this may be due to a defect in the ball.

Stopped working

If your hammer drill starts to hit worse, it is possible that the problem is in worn gear teeth on the moving part of the engine. This could be due to heavy loads or interruptions in the operation of the coupling. As with other defective parts, they must be replaced.

Or there is a malfunction of the switch buttons, then it is worth checking the integrity of the wires.

The drill does not hold

If at work you feel that the chuck does not hold the drill, this means that the hammer drill is defective, and the best option will turn it off as continuing to work is hazardous to health.

The problem is most likely not in the drill, but in the chuck.... As in previous cases, the only way out is to disassemble and determine the cause of the breakdown.

The ratchet is triggered

This ratchet is called a clutch, it protects you from breakage and is a warning signal that the hammer drill is reaching its limit. But this signal does not prevent you from continuing to work, you just need to take breaks and give the device a rest. Usually, such problems only occur in cheap devices..

A properly working rotary hammer is an excellent assistant in the household and in production. This versatile tool with many functions allows you to comfortably solve even the most complex tasks. If the hammer drill breaks down, it is not at all necessary to immediately carry it to the repair. House master can independently disassemble and repair this tool. How to repair a hammer drill with your own hands?

Punch device and its mechanism

Unlike a drill, as well as a hammer drill, the hammer drill has an enhanced impact function, which puts it an order of magnitude higher in situations where it is necessary to apply a significant mechanical effect on the materials being processed.

This is achieved by the design features of the perforator device. The device is equipped with an independent mechanism for generating a powerful pneumatic push of the working tool, and this ability of it frees the master from the use of physical efforts when drilling and chiselling concrete and stone.

The hammer mechanism of the punch in the section

The transformation of the rotational motion of the electric motor into the translational vibration of the percussion mechanism is performed by creating compression between the pistons. This movement is transmitted to the drummer. The striker, made of high strength steel, in turn sends the energy of compressed air directly to the working tool - a drill, chisel or blade. Such a device of the unit allows you to increase the impact power to a huge destructive force - 20 kJ.

Rotary hammer with a vertical engine ("barrel")

Depending on the location of the engine, there are drill-shaped and barrel types of perforators.

1. The first type of device is similar to a drill, in which the motor is located in the same axis with the drill.
2. For rock drills of the second type, the motor is installed perpendicular to the drilling axis.

Drum rock drills are large in size, but at the same time have a more advanced cooling system, which allows you to operate the tool for a long time without stopping. Devices in the form of a drill are much more compact, they are convenient when working in cramped circumstances, when access to the object is limited.

Punch malfunction diagnosis

If during operation malfunctions become evident in the operation of the hammer drill, disconnect it from the power supply and perform an external inspection. If outward signs no breakdowns were found, you will have to disassemble the case and look for the problem inside.

One of the reasons for the failure of the device is a break in the power cord. In this case, the hammer motor will not turn on. To diagnose it, you need to carefully inspect the cable connecting the instrument to the network. It must not be damaged, broken or melted. A good power cord remains cold during operation. If the wire is not in order, it should be replaced with an equivalent one. The cross-section of the conductive elements must correspond to the power consumed by the tool.

Universal diagnostic tool for electrical circuits

Conventionally, all the malfunctions of the hammer drill can be divided into two categories - mechanical and electrical.

Malfunctions in the mechanical part: the crown does not pull out of the barrel, the drill does not hammer, the drill does not rotate, and others

• the drill does not hammer;
• the drill does not rotate;
• the crown is not pulled out of the trunk (it is jammed);
• the chisel does not hold in the chuck (jumps out);
• extraneous sounds are heard inside the mechanism, grinding, vibration.

Electrical failures: the motor does not rotate, the brushes on the collector spark, and other types of breakdowns

The following symptoms indicate problems with the electrical part of the rock drill:

• the motor does not rotate when turned on;
• brushes on the collector intensely sparkle;
• the smell of burnt insulation emanates from the body;
• acrid smoke escapes from the tool during operation.

In order to find out and eliminate the cause of all these phenomena, the puncher must be disassembled.

Disassembly and assembly procedure

You should start disassembling yourself only if you have the appropriate tools and equipment. To repair a punch with your own hands you will need:

• screwdrivers with different slots;
• vice;
• wrenches and socket (hex) wrenches;
• bearing pullers.

In addition, you will need spare parts for replacement, rubber seals and gaskets. To lubricate the gears of mechanisms you will need:

• grease;
• rags;
• cleaning solvent.

In case of self-repair of the electric motor, in addition to the multimeter, you will need:

• spare carbon (or graphite) brushes;
• copper wire of the required section;
• template for rewinding reels.

Removing the cartridge

Dismantling the punch begins with removing the cartridge. As a rule, this is an SDS-plus system chuck, which can be disassembled using a flat-head screwdriver. In this case, the chuck should not contain a drill or chisel.

There are times when the drill gets jammed and it is not so easy to get it out. Then you need to gently tap the cartridge around the circumference with a rubber hammer and pour a few drops of WD-40 type grease inside. After a few minutes, try again, the drill should be easily removed. After that, you can start disassembling the cartridge itself. Procedure:

1. Pull the plastic skirt down.
2. Remove the rubber protective boot with a screwdriver.
3. Unclip and remove the retaining ring located behind the boot.
4. Remove the plastic boot, spring, lock plates and balls.
5. Remove old grease from all parts and place in a clean place.

Schematic diagram SDS Chuck Device

Video: how to remove a drill stuck in a chuck

Removing the mode switch

To remove the mode switch, you must:

1. Move the toggle switch to the "strike" position (the hammer icon) and turn it about 1 cm further below.
2. Release the lever from its seat.
3. Pull the lever towards you.

The switch is removed in a position below the "shock"

How to check the start button and brushes

The rear cover must be removed to access the collector brushes and start control button. For this, two or three screws are unscrewed from the plastic case (depending on the model).

If the cause of the malfunction lay in the wear of the brushes, you can eliminate it by installing a new pair. The working length of the brush must be at least 8 mm. Rubbing surface - no traces of scale or chips.

Detaching the carbon brushes from the manifold

The start button is checked with a multimeter. It must be remembered that the engine speed control system is also located inside the trigger mechanism. If melted plastic is visible on the button body, it should be replaced entirely, since it will no longer function properly.

After replacing the button, you need to reinstall the housing cover, do not forget to tighten the screws securely. Only then can the operation of the punch be checked.

How to disassemble an electric motor

To disassemble the electric motor, it is necessary to disconnect the motor housing from the gearbox. They are fastened together with four screw screws. If they are unscrewed, the mechanical part is easily separated from the plastic cover. During disassembly, the motor rotor is removed from the guide sleeve, freeing access to the gearbox. Accordingly, it becomes possible to inspect the electrical parts of the engine.

Mounting screws connect the two body parts

The motor consists of a movable rotor and a rigidly fixed stator. The rotor rotates under the action of the electromotive force generated on the windings, which consist of turns of a copper conductor. Inspection of the windings is to determine the integrity of the insulation, the absence of a short circuit between the turns. This is done with a multimeter by sequentially measuring the resistance across the lamellas. In the event of a turn-to-turn short circuit, the armature must be replaced or repaired. The stator windings can be rewound independently at home using a special template.

Stator, collector and brushes

The armature, as a rule, changes entirely, along with bearings and an air intake plate.

The armature of the electric motor (rotor) is replaced entirely

How to disassemble and check the gearbox: how to remove the plastic case, take out the "drunk bearing" and other elements

In order to determine the malfunction of the gearbox, it must be completely disassembled. For this, the plastic housing is removed, the gearbox is thoroughly cleaned of old grease. Disconnect from the gearbox housing:

• floating bearing;
• drive gear shaft;
• raster sleeve;
• sleeve with a piston.

Rotary hammer reducer in section

The floating bearing, also referred to as "drunken bearing", is attached to the aluminum gear housing using a bracket that must be wrung out with a flat screwdriver. The released bearing is removed and replaced if necessary. In addition, you should pay attention to the fact that inside the "drunken bearing" there is a needle bearing on which the drive gear rotates. When the hammer drill operates in the impact mode, it experiences heavy loads, and therefore often fails. A new bearing is purchased separately or assembled with an overhead shaft.

A drunk bearing transmits a shock impulse to the tool

The grid sleeve contains an impact bolt that is secured internally with a metal retaining ring. On the sides of the sleeve there are two technological holes through which the locking mechanism is accessed. After releasing the ring fixing, the impact bolt freely falls out of the bushing. Inside it is directly a striker made of high-alloy steel.

When repairing or replacing the impact bolt, it is also necessary to replace the sealing rubber bushings, which ensure the tightness of the mechanism. All parts of the striker are subject to abundant lubrication with special grease.

There is another needle bearing in the plastic casing of the gearbox at the outlet of the hub bushing, which must be well lubricated.

Video: how to fix a hammer drill and replace the impact bolt

Possible malfunctions, reasons for their occurrence and remedies

To repair a hammer drill with your own hands, you must first determine the external manifestations of malfunctions.

The puncher does not hit

If the hammer drill stops hitting when switching to impact mode, but the drill rotates, it is most likely that the floating bearing is damaged. The solution to the problem is to replace it with a new one.

The second possible reason- disruption of the percussion mechanism. Often, during overloads in work, the steel firing pin splits, this leads first to a weakening of the impact, and then to its complete absence. The striker must be replaced.

The third probable cause is wear or breakage of the piston group of the perforator. The liner and piston should be replaced.

The hammer drill does not spin or drill

If the chuck does not rotate when the start button is pressed, the cause can be identified by the sound beforehand. If the electric motor hums, but does not turn the chuck, most likely something is preventing the rotor from rotating inside the gearbox. What happened to the engine will have to be figured out by disassembling the mechanical part of the tool.

If the engine does not hum when you turn it on, it is more likely that the engine has broken down. Having opened the lid of the device, it is necessary to determine what exactly led to this phenomenon. This can be an open circuit in the power supply, a breakdown of the start button, or a short circuit in the windings of the coils. With the help of a tester, the specific cause is determined and the appropriate repair is made.

The drill does not hold in the chuck and flies out

Punch snap incontinence can occur during long-term operation... A drill or chisel inserted into the chuck does not hold and flies out during operation. Not only is it impossible to continue chiselling with such a tool, it is also very dangerous - a flying chisel can cause injury.

The reason for the incontinence of the tooling lies in the wear or breakage of the chuck. The cartridge must be disassembled and the problem identified. Perhaps the balls were deformed, a depletion appeared on the restraining ring, or the fixing spring sagged. Usually, after replacing the damaged part, the chuck will start functioning normally again.

Video: why drills fly out of a hammer drill

Brushes sparkle

Sparking of brushes is a fairly common phenomenon when working with a tool in dusty conditions. As a rule, sparking is a consequence of the depletion of the material of the brushes themselves. Replacing the latter with new ones will help to correct the situation, sparks will no longer fly out.

If not, the cause must be sought in the stator or rotor windings. It is possible that the large amount of dust entering the engine has caused the protective varnish covering the copper conductors... And this entails a short circuit. The presence of a turn-to-turn circuit is checked by electrical devices (multimeter).

Resistance measurement between lamellas is carried out with a multimeter

Preventive maintenance of the tool: replacing brushes, lubricating the bearings of the rotor shaft and additional varnishing of the windings on the coils will reduce the likelihood of breakdowns.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that dust can adhere to the lubricant of the bearing located next to the manifold. To prevent this, the collector is degreased with a swab dipped in alcohol or solvent.

The hammer drill gets very hot

If the hammer drill becomes excessively hot during operation, this is a clear sign of a malfunction of the electric motor. First of all, to prevent overheating, it is necessary to observe the operating mode of the device:

• pause at regular intervals;
• after exertion, allow the tool to idle.

If the temperature of the case does not decrease, then you need to revise the electric motor. Having felt the characteristic smell from under the casing of the tool, you must immediately stop working and disconnect the device from the network. It can only be disassembled after it has cooled completely.

The hammer drill does not hold a chuck

Sometimes there is a situation when a cartridge flies off on a working perforator along with the equipment. This is due to the wear of the holder of the chuck body at the end of the flare sleeve, which is a retaining ring. If it breaks, the fixation is broken and during the push the rubber boot flies off, followed by the spring and balls.

Normal operation of the chuck can be restored by installing a new retaining ring. This is done quickly and does not require any additional devices other than a regular screwdriver.

Replacing the main components of the punch

Replacement of key elements is best done before the part becomes unusable. This protects the instrument from more severe damage, which is more expensive and time-consuming to fix. Most often, you have to replace:

• bearings;
• start buttons;
• brushes;
• cartridge.

How to change bearings

If, during a routine inspection, grease drips are noticeable on the bearing, it cracks or crunches when turned by hand, this means that it is time to replace it. Dismantling of the bearing is carried out using a special puller, consisting of a screw part and a device for gripping the bearing sleeve housing. Tightening the threads creates a force that pulls the bearing off the shaft.

The puller is driven by the rotation of the threaded rod

Installing a new bearing on workplace produced with rubber or wooden hammer packing. When installing, it is important to avoid misalignment of the bearing axis relative to the shaft axis. The part is lubricated after installation.

How the start button changes

To replace the start button, you must remove the cover that covers the electrical equipment of the rock drill. Then you should disconnect the contacts of the conductors connected to it, and pull the button body out of the seat. Install a new button in this place, connect the contacts and assemble everything in the reverse order.

The button turns on the motor and adjusts its speed

How to remove and replace brushes

Replacement of the carbon brushes of the collector is carried out with an electrical screwdriver. If you unscrew the lid, you will get access to the brushes. Each part is removed one by one from the sockets of the brush holder. In some models, the device of the pressure mechanism is different, as a rule, it is a spiral spring, which must be removed during replacement.

The procedure for replacing the cartridge is clear from the above procedure for disassembling the hammer drill.

Features in the repair of a barrel rock drill

All the described procedures for assembling and disassembling the mechanisms of perforators are also valid for the barrel variety. However, there are several nuances that must be taken into account when repairing it. The vertical arrangement of the engine at right angles to the percussion mechanism slightly changes the order of disassembly. So, to gain access to the gearbox and piston, it is necessary to remove the plastic cover located at the top of the tool casing. This makes it easier to repair the mechanical part of the device if the shock function suddenly disappears.

Access to the electrical part of such a perforator is carried out after removing the lower casing. And the replacement of brushes is simplified, since there are holes on the sides of the glass through which they can be easily removed.

It should be noted that many professional drum rock drills do not have a drilling mode. Since their purpose is to a greater extent consists of drilling and chiselling heavy concrete surfaces, they are equipped with SDS-max chuck with 18mm shank. There is no fundamental difference in the device of the SDS-plus cartridge, but the dimensions differ noticeably. L-shaped rock drills are recognized as more reliable in operation and belong to the rank of a professional tool.

Video: how to repair a vertical rotary hammer

Daily care and storage of the rotary hammer

In order for the tool to serve for a long time and properly, you need to follow simple rules.

1. Before starting work, conduct a cursory inspection of the technical condition of the tool. In no case should you ignore the symptoms of a malfunction, if any.
2. At the end of the work, clean the rotary hammer from dust and debris. It is advisable to blow it out with a jet of air from a vacuum cleaner.
3. When transporting in cold seasons, before starting work, give the device at least 20 minutes to "acclimatize" the device. The grease should thaw and become elastic.
4. Operate in compliance with the operating standards described in technical passport tool.

The punch should be stored in a dry and warm place. For long-term storage, it is recommended to pack in a plastic bag and cardboard box. Do not allow moisture to enter electrical parts, including condensation from the air.

Case - the best place for storing the punch

Aware means armed. Knowing the intricacies of the structure of the hammer drill mechanism, you can repair the tool yourself and in the shortest possible time. However, if you look under the puncher casing in a timely manner, clean and lubricate the mechanisms, then it is quite possible that you will not have to resort to repairs at all. Regular maintenance of the appliance will help extend its life.

If you need to repair a hammer drill, this means, at least, that you already have it. Although it is possible that you are just choosing this drum drilling tool, simultaneously studying the weak points of its design, and which nodes in it could theoretically fail.

Well, let's try to help you. In this article we will explore:

• Perforators device.
• The most loaded parts and assemblies of the tool.
• Disassembly and assembly.
• Measures to prolong the life of the hammer drill power tool.

Rotary hammer device

Studying the principle of operation of a percussion drilling tool will not only broaden your technical horizons, but first of all will allow you to competently carry out its maintenance and, if necessary, repair. To make it easier to understand the processes occurring during drilling in hard materials (and this tool is designed to do just such work), do not be too lazy to watch these two short videos. The first clearly shows the operation of a rotary hammer with a longitudinal engine.

The second video demonstrates the design of a rotary hammer with a transverse motor.

So, let's start with the most important thing: concrete, brick, stone, the tool destroys shock wave arising at the moment of very short contact of the striker with the butt of the drill (through the striker). The energy of the shock wave is transmitted through the drill (impact drill) and breaks the bonds (forms microcracks) between the grains of the minerals that make up the stone (concrete, brick). The spiral grooves of the rotating drill are used to remove the breakaway particles of material from the hole.

(Hence the conclusion: there is no need to press hard with a puncher on concrete wall, he will not drill faster - you will only get tired yourself, and the tool will break faster.)

The striker is made of high-strength steel and moves freely enough inside the piston cylinder.

A rubber sealing ring seals the gap, preventing air from freely passing into the gap between the cylinder and the hammer.

The outer race of a rolling bearing, set at an angle on a shaft rotated by an electric motor, reciprocates, forcing the piston cylinder to move back and forth.

How to repair the Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer if the impact mode is gone

When the cylinder is moved forward (towards the drill), the striker remains in place by inertia, the air between the striker and the rear wall of the cylinder is compressed and pushes the striker towards the end of the drill.

In fact, this air serves as a damping element that prevents deformation and destruction of the cylinder of the rock drill. In a tool with a transverse engine, the cylinder is stationary, and the vacuum and compression of air behind the striker is created by a piston driven by a crank mechanism.

The most loaded parts and assemblies of the hammer drill

Based on the foregoing, the impact mechanism and gearbox in the process long-term work is experiencing maximum loads. Part of the kinetic energy of the striker goes into thermal energy, and heats up the entire assembly. O-ring rubs against inner surface cylinder and with a lack of lubrication wears out, over time passing more and more air from the working area.

The energy of the compressed air becomes less and less - the hammer drill no longer chisels as needed. When self-repairing a perforator, sometimes it is enough to simply replace the lubricant in the gearbox, piston cylinder and the rubber sealing ring on the drummer.

During prolonged continuous operation or at the time of normal drilling under a high load, the electric motor can easily overheat and burn out. Although the latest models of the tool have an electronic control unit that includes motor overload protection. If you wish, you can read about troubleshooting the electric motor, power cord, electronics and power button in the previous article.

Disassembly and assembly of the rotary hammer

When trying to repair a hammer drill with your own hands, first of all, you need to disassemble it. To do this, remove the rubber tip, the annular spring, the casing of the drill fixing clutch. The retaining steel ball is removed. By turning the operating mode switch to the extreme position, pressing the fixing button on it, the switch handle is removed.

The rear handle pad is removed, the electric motor brushes are removed. 4 screws are unscrewed (from the side of the drill) and the entire front part of the tool (gearbox housing) is removed, containing the barrel, gearbox, percussion mechanism and operating mode switch.

The rotor of the engine is removed. The two screws securing the stator are unscrewed. 4 terminals are removed from the stator contacts, then it is removed from the case. Removable switch (button + reverse switch), brush holder, noise filter and power cord.

If it is necessary to repair the perforator in the part of the percussion mechanism and the gearbox, 4 screws are unscrewed from the end of the gearbox housing, then the outer plastic casing is removed. It is better to do this in an upright position. Then, in the inner case, all parts will remain in place.

After replacing the defective part, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Parts that have turned out to be "superfluous" should be wiped dry and taken to the repair shop along with the hammer drill.

Measures that prolong the "life" of the hammer drill

All activities boil down to the following:

• Please read the user manual and the instruction manual of the instrument carefully.
• Strictly follow the instructions specified in the instructions.
• Change the lubricant of the gearbox and hammer regularly. Exactly replace, since there is no point in adding new grease to the used old one - metal dust serves as an excellent abrasive, "eating" everything in its path.
• Lubricate the drill shank before use.
• Inspect the motor brushes regularly and replace as needed.
• Clean the outside of the tool every day after finishing work.
• Try not to work in clouds of dust - it is harmful not only for the hammer drill, but also for your lungs. Ventilate your work area by opening all windows.
• Do not go there, where you do not understand anything at all - entrust the service to a professional, or, if you have already undertaken to repair the puncher with your own hands, then do it slowly, remembering well where you put what.

We wish you success!

Pneumatic hammer hammer mechanism device:
1- swing bearing, 2- piston, 3- ram, 4- impact rod

The design features of rock drills suggest some differences in the location of standard mechanisms. The main components are the same in any model. This is an electric motor, a reduction gear, a complex impact mechanism, an end working part (cartridge). The basic principle of operation is the transformation of the kinetic energy of the rotational motion of the engine into impact energy due to the oscillatory movements of the axial shaft (bump stop) of the impact mechanism.

Will definitely interest: How to choose the right puncher - we guarantee it will be useful

Mechanical differences in rock drill designs

Most rock drills have a commutator motor. Its location can be horizontal or vertical. The first variant of engine placement is used in light, low-power vehicles. The second is in medium and heavy vehicles. Lightweight rotary hammers are convenient for household work, drilling small holes, lightly triggering old wall or floor coverings. They can be used in hard-to-reach places, however, the vibration of this type of instrument, given its scheme of the percussion mechanism, is quite high. And their power is hardly enough to work on monolithic concrete.

Rotary hammers with a vertical engine are equipped with an anti-vibration system, as well as a crank-connecting rod percussion mechanism, which is more powerful and resistant to long-term loads. Impact power in some modifications of the heavy type can reach 20J, medium - 8. They are larger in size and weight of the tool, and are designed for particularly hard surfaces.

How the striking mechanism works

The rotational movement of the engine drives one of the most important components of the rock drill, the percussion mechanism. The pneumatic system of this unit has 2 versions - with the use of an oscillating bearing or a crank mechanism combined with a gear part. When the shaft rotates, oscillatory rotations of the piston are created, pumping air into the working cylinder of the system. In this cylinder due to small space, compressed air pressure is created, which moves the ram and the striker. As a result of short-term impulse transitions of the piston and ram, these movements are converted into blows.

At idle, being not pressed against a hard surface, this mechanism is self-deactivated, no compression pressure is generated, and no shocks are produced.

How to carry out the correct repair of a punch on your own

The working mechanism remains stationary.

Shaft rotation speed adjustable by pushing a button if a soft start is provided. On some models, the button has a trigger limit adjustment knob that adjusts the RPM and engine power.

Rotary hammer reducer contributes to the transmission of the speed with the corresponding parameters of power and torque from the initial unit (engine) to the final (impact mechanism). Reducing the gear ratio is necessary for the normal operation of the entire apparatus when it vibration parameters... The reduction type of the gearbox leads to a lower number of engine revolutions and an increase in the power of the final unit. To lubricate it, use a specialized dense grease such as solid oil, refueled during manufacture or maintenance.

Rotary hammer body It is made mainly of metal (dural alloys, steel), only near the electrical part, in the area of ​​the trigger button, it is made of durable plastic.

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Impact mode does not work in the punch

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The problem is this: yesterday, while drilling 10 mm holes, for attaching the foam, the perforator stopped working in the impact mode (both in the impact mode and in the drilling + impact mode), having drilled half the hole depth, it refused to continue working.
In drilling mode, the punch works. Also, if you switch to drilling mode, you can hear that the motor in the middle is working, but drilling does not work.
Please tell me what could be the reason for these inconveniences. Can I cope on my own? Need to take to repair?
Rotary hammer 4-5 years old, used for construction own home and for work on the farm.

Well, it's hard to say what happened. The most likely version is a breakdown of the mode switching mechanism. Perhaps the contact of such a switch has come off. In any other case, all modes would not work. Disassemble, look. Perhaps it will be done by simply soldering the contact.

tyui

Yes, it must be disassembled, look, look at the winding of the piston system.

At one time, I also faced a similar misfortune, I had to change the piston and change the O-ring. In general, it is easier to give it to the workshop.

I apologize, as far as I understand, the question was about an electric rock drill, does an electric rock drill have a piston and an O-ring?
I agree with "Maksimka" the cause of the breakdown is most likely in the switching mechanism, there is a chance to fix the hammer drill yourself.

Dear vehicle! It is better not to touch the pistons, otherwise the fuel may ignite !!! (just kidding, I hope you understood :). tyui, where is the piston in the hammer drill? Regarding the breakdown: the most reasonable option is to take the tool to a professional repair. If you don’t understand, you can fix this, which even the specialists will not fix.

This is the first time I hear about the piston system in a hammer drill. And I advise you, Dominic, to take the hammer drill for repair if you don’t know how to repair the switch. I think that the breakdown is not in the mechanism itself, but in the fact that the contact has moved away or burned out

you need to disassemble the perfo reducer. Yes, what's wrong to watch. The piston has nothing to do with if you can hear how it works, although it is possible that it cracked.

DIY punch repair

Rather, the reason is the striker. And, perhaps more sealing rings .... Depressurization - no pressure is created - the firing pin does not move.

Stopped hammering hammer hammer ("barrel"). The striker grease in the drill clip thickened, became like resin, and the striker stopped moving in the drill clip. After washing and lubricating the striker and the drill holder with liquid oil, the striker began to move in the drill holder, and the perforator began to hammer.

But if you're just passing us, you can still:

Rotary hammer designs

Perforator designs. Portable rock drills differ little in design from each other. Consider the device of one of the common PP63V perforators (Fig. 16.8).

It consists of a cylinder 1, a barrel 2 and a rear cover 11, connected by tie bolts 10 with nuts. The piston-striker 3 under the action of compressed air supplied alternately to the front or rear relative to the piston of the cylinder cavity, makes a reciprocating motion. The sequence of supply of compressed air is regulated by a valve air distributor 15. At the end of the working stroke, the piston-striker strikes the drill shank with its rod. During the return stroke, the piston-striker with the help of the mechanism 9 turns the drill by a certain angle. To remove destroyed rock from the hole, the perforator has a flushing device 12, which supplies water to the bottom of the hole through the perforator flushing pipe, the axial channel in the rod and the holes in the bit.

The drill holder 4 serves for centering the drill while drilling the hole and retrieving the drill from the hole. The muffler 16, made of rubber, is installed above the exhaust ports in the cylinder wall and can be rotated relative to the cylinder, which allows the exhaust air to be directed away from the driller.
To support the perforator during operation, there is a handle 8 connected to the perforator through a vibration damping device 7. It is a tubular metal structure with a spring vibration damping system 5. The perforator is connected to the supporting devices with the bracket 6.
Telescopic perforators (Fig. 16.9) differ from portable ones by the presence of a pneumatic telescopic feeder and a device that protects the perforator mechanisms from getting cuttings from the borehole into them. The telescopic feeder consists of a cylinder 13, a piston 11 with a rod 12. The stop 14 keeps the perforator from turning during drilling and displacement along the surface on which it is installed (excavation soil, working shelf, etc.).

Do-it-yourself punch repair: is it real?

The perforator has a feed control handle 10 with a button for releasing, if necessary, compressed air from the feeder without stopping the perforator.
The perforator assemblies are protected from sludge getting into them as follows. The drill holder at the perforator is replaced by a grandbook 3, which is screwed into the rotary axle 4. The drill rod, made for telescopic perforators without a collar, is held in the perforator in the desired position due to the presence of an additional striker 5. The sludge trap 6 is installed on the chuck 7 of the perforator. It catches water, sludge and takes them to the side along the sleeve 8. The falling sludge inside the perforator is prevented by supplying compressed air through a special pipe 9, located concentrically to the one through which the water enters the borehole. The handle 2 of the starting valve, like portable rock drills, has four positions.

If the warranty period for the hammer drill has expired, you will have to do it yourself.

As a rule, the actions come down to replacing faulty parts, and today we will talk about typical breakdowns, the selection of components and do-it-yourself repairs.

How the puncher works

The perforator can be classified as a tool with a device of increased complexity. However, a sequential consideration of the details and the principle of operation will help a thorough understanding of the nuances of the mechanism and troubleshooting.

The source of motion, as in many other construction tools, in the hammer drill is a single-phase motor with a phase rotor. We will consider it separately, and now we will take the gear set on the front armature shaft as the starting point. It is she who sets the rotation for all other elements of the system.

Barrel puncher device: 1 - power cord; 2 - carbon brushes; 3 - electric motor; 4 - switch; 5 - eccentric mechanism; 6 - impact mechanism; 7 - quick-change cartridge

In a drum rock drill, the motor and pinion are vertical. The key difference from the pistol-type tool here is the presence of an intermediate gear. There is nothing tricky in its device: a flat gear from the engine rotates two others with different gear ratios. One of them transmits rotation to the main shaft, the other turns the eccentric shaft with a connecting rod, which provides the reciprocating movement of the percussion mechanism.

In horizontal (pistol) type perforators, there is no transfer gearbox as such, the rotation is immediately transmitted to the intermediate shaft located below the axis of the main spindle. This shaft is seated on two bearings, between them there is a "drunk bearing", which oscillates during rotation and drives the piston of the striker. There is a gear on the protruding front end of the shaft, due to which rotation is transmitted to the barrel.

Pistol-type perforator device: 1 - switch; 2 - electric motor; 3 - brushes; 4 - "drunk bearing"; 5 - "flying" piston; 6 - striker; 7 - SDS quick-release chuck

Any hammer drill has mode switches. In a barrel, they simply raise the transfer gear gears, disengaging them. In a pistol gun, one of two control schemes can be used. In the simplest case, one switch displaces the intermediate shaft, which, being pushed as far forward as possible, meshes with the chuck gear, but at the same time the clutch for transferring rotation to the swing bearing is disengaged. In the middle position, both mechanisms are included in the transmission, and in the maximum recessed position, only the drummer works. The obsolete kinematic diagram has two switches, one of which disengages the rocking bearing clutch, and the other shifts the intermediate shaft.

Identifying engine faults

If the rotary hammer motor has a factory defect, the latter manifests itself in the very first months of operation. Otherwise, the cause of the breakdown is often a violation of the operating technique or the extreme wear of the component parts.

The main element of the motor section, subject to intense wear, is the graphite brushes, which transmit current to the rotor windings. When the brushes are erased, their pressure weakens, which increases the gap between the graphite and the armature lamellas, and intense sparking occurs. By sound, this malfunction cannot be confused with anything: when turned on, a strained hum is heard, the collector sprinkles with a sheaf of sparks, the rear of the engine is intensely heated.

The motor windings are made with a wire in varnish insulation, which loses its dielectric properties due to overheating, cracks and crumbles. Small short circuits between adjacent turns can be identified by the characteristic hum of the engine during operation. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to rewind the stator and armature at home, but most of the engine parts are typical and it is easy for them to find a replacement.

Bearings are other vulnerable parts. There are two of them at the anchor: the rear one is fixed in the housing of the electrical part inside the vibration damping cap, the front one is inserted into the seat of the gearbox housing or screwed to it with a cap. It is quite easy to determine the wear of bearings: when rotating by hand, their stroke is either too free with a characteristic rustling, or there are wedges, backlash and extraneous noise... The bearings have a closed cage and are not designed for maintenance. It is much easier to replace them with new ones; it is enough to rewrite the number on the separator cover or the end of the outer cage.

Replacing buttons and brushes

During the operation of a high-quality punch, the button may have to be changed more than once. It is optimal if you purchase a button in advance for a specific model. If you need to remove the defective part for a sample, sketch on paper a connection diagram showing color coding wires. Some of the buttons have screw clamps and you will need a narrow slotted screwdriver to unscrew them. Some buttons are equipped with spring-type clamps, in order to unclench them, you need to drive the awl into the hole next to the wire entry. Rarely enough are disposable spring clips wires from which are not disconnected. The veins from the old button will have to be cut, cleaned and tinned, and then connected to the new button in accordance with the connection diagram.

It is quite easy to change the brushes in the hammer drill, the channels for them in some models are brought out and closed with plugs for access without disassembling the tool. Otherwise, you just have to remove the housing of the electromotor part of the tool and carefully inspect manifold assembly... The seats of the brushes are located inside or near the plastic racks that hold the rear bearing plug, two wires go to them. The mechanism for attaching and pressing the brushes varies from model to model.

In most cases, removing the brushes requires only pulling out two metal tabs with pliers, unscrewing a couple of screws or unfastening the springs of the clips. During periodic inspection of the brushes, it is recommended to remove and check for chips, clean the seating grooves from dust and dirt. Be careful not to confuse the left brush with the right one; observe their original position when installing. As a rule, brushes are lapped at an individual angle, a change in which will either require lapping again, or will lead to the destruction of the graphite element.

When replacing worn-out brushes, it is only important to select the correct size and cross-section, and then grind the brushes by running the engine for 2-3 minutes without load in no impact mode. Now almost every hammer drill is equipped with a set of interchangeable brushes, but you can also find a replacement by the remnants of those that have already worked.

How to replace bearings yourself

The hammer drill contains from five to ten radial rolling bearings of different sizes and the need to replace them is only a matter of time. It is very important to periodically disassemble and assess the degree of wear of these assemblies, otherwise more serious malfunctions may develop in the future.

Almost every bearing in the hammer drill is easy to remove, the fitting dimensions for them are selected with high accuracy. In some cases, the retaining ring may interfere with removal. If it is not there, and the bearing refuses to be removed, a universal two-grip puller is used. If a puller is not available, then the part on which the bearing is seated must be clamped in the soft jaws of a vise, and then knock down the worn out element, striking through the adapter on the inner ring.

When seating a new bearing, do not subject it to direct hard impacts. You should use an elastic guide, such as trimming polypropylene pipe... It must first be cut obliquely so that the impact force falls exclusively on the inner clip. This will prevent the rolling elements from leaving microscopic dents on the grooves.

Chuck malfunctions

The SDS chuck consists of a nipple with one or two holes in which balls are seated, usually with a diameter of 6.7 mm. The balls move freely in the holes while the plastic body of the cartridge is pulled back, in the normal position they are tightly pressed by a spring through a massive steel ring.

To disassemble the cartridge, you need to pry the front boot with a screwdriver and remove the retaining ring from the fitting. The rest of the parts are simply put on the fitting and can be removed without additional manipulations, it is only important to put them back in place in the correct order.

As a rule, the main reason for the malfunction of the chuck is the worn-out balls or the pressed plate and the pressure ring. Because of this, the rig either does not hold at all, or flies out during operation. You can get such balls in any quantity by breaking bearing number 106. The bore holes and splines inside the bushing have a much longer service life, but if the replacement does not give the expected result, you will have to change the choke only assembled with the barrel.

Please note that the rapid wear of the chuck parts occurs due to the loose sealing of the anthers, both front and annular on the fitting. Drill shanks should always be kept lubricated and a special dust washer should be used when drilling into the ceiling.

Repair of the gearbox and impact mechanism

So we got to the most meaningful part of our instruction. Due to the differences in the structure of the transmission part and the shock pulse generator in different families of perforators, their maintenance and repair is carried out according to different schemes.

Barrel punchers

The drive gear of the transfer gearbox is seated on the motor bearing, the other two have their own stops. They need to be periodically checked for jamming and backlash, changed if necessary.

The connecting rod mechanism has its own bearing, which is usually seated on the cam of the eccentric wheel, sometimes at the base of the connecting rod itself. Occasionally, a sleeve bearing is used in this place, which requires constant availability of grease with a normalized viscosity index. The wear of this assembly often requires replacing the eccentric barrel and connecting rod.

The transmission of rotation is carried out by a straight or bevel gear, in this place the constant presence of lubricant is also important. The need for replacement is determined by blackening, thinning and the presence of shiny blotches.

Pistol hammer drills

On rock drills with a horizontal rotor, problems can arise from wear or seized bearings. This is the most dangerous malfunction for all hammer drill units: fragments of a broken bearing can get into the parts of the percussion mechanism and damage them.

The landing of the countershaft and "drunken bearing" is often done on an individual basis. For complete disassembly, you need to unscrew the clamping bracket of the front end of the shaft, disconnect the switch lever.

A typical breakdown of a horizontal gearbox is wear of the gear wheels. In the absence of a press, removing them will not be an easy task, it is much easier to break them by making a couple of cuts up to 2/3 of the thickness. The new gear is pressed in after preheating to 150–200 ºС, this can be done with a hair dryer or in the oven.

All gear unit types should be thoroughly cleaned and relubricated periodically. After disassembly, all parts are thoroughly washed in kerosene, getting rid of fragments of broken elements and metal shavings. Thereafter, a special type of grease is applied to all moving parts.

Raster coupling

The barrel of hammer drills of almost all types has the same structure. The outer sleeve of the clutch rests on a needle bearing at the front of the gear housing. On outside of the glass, the main gear wheel of the rotation transmission is fixed together with the safety clutch. To remove them, you need to remove the retaining ring, compressing the spring beforehand with adjustable pliers.

It is also easy to disassemble the insides of the trunnion sleeve. They are fixed with a retaining ring, which is removed through a pair of side holes with a conventional screwdriver. Once the ring has been removed, the parts inside can be extruded by inserting a screwdriver from the front of the barrel.

Inside there is a "flying" impact bolt and industrial mass - the impact force receiver. Most bolts are assembled and often wear out rubber gaskets and packing rings. It is recommended to change these elements at every service. The bolt itself and the industrial mass can be cracked due to the manifestations of fatigue during prolonged use. These elements cost mere pennies and at the slightest traces of flaring, it is also better to replace them immediately.

It is difficult to give more specific recommendations for the repair of the raster coupling and the reduction gear part: for each manufacturer, the kinematic diagrams may have slight differences. Nevertheless, most of the faults are clearly visible during inspection and revision. In this regard, it is recommended to save the assembly diagram from the instructions for the tool, it should also be used when searching for components, which are determined by the serial number of the list of used parts.

A hammer drill is a tool without which it is impossible to imagine most of the construction and repair work today. Therefore, today every person associated with such works aspires to have this tool. A video about the repair of a hammer drill will be interesting to everyone who wants to be able to independently repair the breakdown of this tool.

Finding out the cause of the breakdown

To know what exactly needs to be repaired, it is worth understanding the reasons for the breakdown of the hammer drill. This video will help you to do this.

Replacing the bearing in the hammer drill

If you hear an uncharacteristic "rustle" or feel that the drill "slips" while working with the hammer drill, it is time to replace the bearing. This video will tell you how to do this.

Disassembly of the rotary hammer reducer

The rotary hammer reducer is designed to transmit rotary motion to the chuck from the engine. This is what drives the impact mechanism. The gearbox must be disassembled to replace or lubricate parts. You will learn how to do this in the video.

Another story about the disassembly of the gearbox.

Rotary hammer lubrication

For. To prevent the perforator from breaking and failing, you need to properly care for it. Regular lubrication of the rock drill is one of the prerequisites for proper tool care. To lubricate the hammer drill, it must first be disassembled. You will learn how to do this by watching this video.

How to extend the life of a hammer drill

Protecting the rock drill from dust is wasting its service life. If you want to know how you can make a dust protection for your instrument with your own hands, watch this video.