When making repairs in an apartment, you often have to tint the windows, and sometimes putty and plaster them so that they have a proper look. This work does not take much time and effort, does not require special skills. In the process of replacing windows, especially with metal-plastic ones, the work becomes much more, because you need to eliminate the empty space from the second frame, level the slope and cover it with plaster as evenly as possible, which requires knowledge, and most importantly, skills.

Peculiarities

Repair and replacement of windows are accompanied by a distortion of the opening and the need to work on it. You can call specialists and they will do everything necessary, but this will require significant financial costs, while the process of plastering slopes can be done by hand. The main thing is to find out how to do it correctly. Slopes on the windows do not play a global role in the interior, but when installing a new window, it is much more pleasant to frame it with fresh elements, and not leave it surrounded by uneven homemade parts walls.

Plastering window slopes is not a very laborious process, but it requires knowledge of certain things:

1. It is important to consider the room temperature when planning the workflow. After all, if it is below five degrees Celsius, then cement and any other mortar will have the wrong consistency and turn into stone much faster.
2. When buying any dry mixes, you need to dilute them only in accordance with the instructions on the package.
3. The front of the plastering work can be different, in accordance with which it is necessary to correctly mix the solution in quantity. Within half an hour, it will begin to dry out, and it will no longer be possible to use it.

If the irregularities on the side of the window opening are too large, then a rough layer of putty should be applied. So it will turn out to level the surface as much as possible, and after it dries with the help finishing putty corrective actions will be taken.

The result will be a smooth and neat slope in the room where the window was replaced.

When should you do it?

Good renovation involves replacing the entire contents of the room, including windows and doors. Modern double-glazed windows are very easy to install and serve well. However, there is new problem associated with destruction from the dismantling of old windows and doors. To hide holes and irregularities, you need to plaster them yourself or hire a team of specialists. If repairs need to be carried out in as soon as possible and qualitatively, help will not be superfluous. If it's just one window or door, you can do it yourself.

After installation plastic windows or front door the inner walls are damaged to varying degrees. They must be removed immediately. For external window walls, there is most often no need to change anything, although if you wish, you can level them and plaster them for painting. Inside the room it is very noticeable when old slopes remain on the new window, made without taking into account technologies and rules for working with them.

It is believed that the window space has a small role in the interior. It may not decorate the room to a great extent, but bad job will immediately catch your eye and spoil the impression not only of the repair itself, but also of the owners of the room.

To achieve a perfect result and make the room completely harmonious, you need to work out the slopes of windows and doorways if they have been replaced.

For all its low significance, the window slope still performs a number of important functions, these are:

• the ability to hide mounting elements;
• additional thermal insulation;
• moisture protection;
• soundproofing.

As soon as the replacement of windows or doors is planned in the room, it is important to think over the work on the slopes and openings. This is important, because this way the process will be completed faster, and the room will receive a complete look without losing its functionality.

Tools and materials

For effective work on the plaster of slopes, it is necessary to prepare tools, without which it will be difficult to achieve good result... Regardless of whether work will be carried out with a window or with a door, the same tools are needed, namely:

• Level with a minimum length of 1 meter.
• A rule on which there will be no damage and distortions on the edges. This is the main tool for leveling mortar on the surface, so it must be perfectly level.
• Roulette.

• Capacity for mixing the solution. Its dimensions should be as convenient as possible for connecting the necessary components.
• Spatulas different sizes... In work, you will need both narrow and medium and wide. They apply the mixture, leveling in small areas.
• A smoothing trowel with which you can correctly distribute the composition and make the surface even.

• A grater that is selected based on the plaster used.
• A construction knife so that you can conveniently remove the remains of the polyurethane foam.
• Sealant gun.

• Several pencils for marking. Using a marker or felt-tip pen may cause stains on the finished surface.
• Brushes and roller to prime the surface.

Since the main work will be carried out using plaster, this material must be chosen with all seriousness.

For rooms with high humidity or outdoor work, you need to use mixtures with cement. For working indoors with slopes, the gypsum composition of the plaster will be the best.

In addition to the basic tools and materials, it is important to have at the ready and additional:

• polyurethane foam in case of too large holes from the old frame;
• a tube of sealant to seal the seams on the foam cut and crevices on the slopes;
• primer composition;
• corners or strips that act as beacons.

The use of dry mixtures is justified, because how can you make a batch yourself the required amount and density. For use gypsum plaster it is important to install a profile, which can be either metal or plastic, but it is better to choose the first option.

If there is no experience in plastering, then it is better to use a mesh, which will speed up the application of the mixture and help to level it better.

The window unit can be decorated in different ways:

• smooth slopes that form square windows;
• corner structures that help, if necessary, visually expand the space.

If work is carried out on doorway, then you can not only level the surface of the wall, but also prepare it for future decoration. Depending on the style of the room, you can install pillars at the doors that will look like antique columns. This is typical for classic style... You can find original bowls and trims that will accentuate the interior of the room.

Starting the repair of slopes and openings, it is important to prepare the room itself. Everything around should be covered with something or protected from dust and dirt, which will certainly arise in the process of work.

Before starting any repair activities, it is important to study all the characteristics of the materials that will be used in the work. It is this step that will help prevent serious mistakes and accelerate the pace of work.

Application process

Before starting work, you need to prepare the window itself for repair. The window sill must be covered, and the window must be closed with foil and pasted over with masking tape. Decorating the slope with your own hands will not be so difficult if you adhere to all the rules and regulations in this type of work.

• The first thing to do is to remove the remaining foam, after which you can attach the slats. Any bar will work, but it is important that it is of the right length, not too wide, and sturdy.
• The slats are attached to the window opening using plaster and plaster mortar. Outside, they are treated with a primer and cured until completely dry. After that, the plastering process begins.
• The surface on which the material will be applied must also be primed. This will provide better grip on the new material.

• If the window opening is made not of brick, but, for example, of cement, then you need to install a special mesh or prime the surface.
• The next step will be to check the evenness of the slopes and identify the most uneven places in order to be the first to fill them with a solution. Application can be done using two technologies: spreading the mixture or sketching. The second layer is applied with a float, not a spatula.
• It is very important to correctly level the surface, because the final result will depend on this. An additional measure can be plastering the corner connecting the slope and the wall.
• The treated surfaces are rubbed and finally leveled until the result is perfect. If there is no experience in such matters, then you can ask friends or hired craftsmen to show a master class on how exactly to make slopes and doorways after dismantling old structures.

• The surface near the window to be plastered must be completely ready for work, you need to take care of cleaning the top layer of dust and dirt that remains from dismantling work. When preparing the mixture, it is important not to do too much of it, because the plaster dries quickly, after which it is no longer possible to use it. To determine the optimal amount of solution, the deepest place of the slope is measured, from which the initial calculation is carried out.
• It is most convenient to apply the mixture to the wall with a medium-sized spatula, and as a rule it is very convenient to make an even angle. To level the surface, it is convenient to take a large spatula, which will be slightly larger than the width of the slope.
• To extract an unnecessary amount of mortar, the trowel is installed at a right angle and is carried out from the bottom up, like any other movement on the window opening. All the excess that has formed on a large spatula is conveniently removed with a medium one.

• The resulting slopes do not need to be leveled to an ideal state, because the next stage of work will be the use of a float. She will align everything to the required state.
• When applying layer by layer of plaster, it is important to allow time to dry. If there are only two of them, then half an hour will be enough. If there are more layers, for example, four, then they can dry up to a day. It is thanks to the application of each new layer of plaster that it is possible to level the surface of the slope, which is checked every time by the level.
• The plastered slopes at the end of all these works can simply be left with the putty applied to them.

If subsequent painting is planned, then they should be additionally primed. This option is more reliable and will help easy painting, as it will improve the adhesion of the color to the surface of the slopes.

Plastering allows to give the door slopes a high-quality surface. Since many premises in the housing stock have plastered walls (this is a logical point), plastering window and door slopes is carried out in a similar way. The method of plastering slopes is available even to a beginner. The main thing is to prepare everything necessary tools.

After installing the door, you need to plaster the slopes, this will give a beautiful neat look.

Substitute door designs so that their finishing is not needed is not possible, since the removal of unnecessary frames is associated with the removal of old layers of plaster. In this case, chips and cracks may remain in the door openings. The distance between walls and door frames is filled with suitable material, which should fit more tightly in each gap. Next, the surface should be carefully cleaned of dirt, old paint, dust and soot.

Stages of plastering door slopes

Before the start of plastering, a slope location line is applied.

Before plastering the door slopes, level the wall. The door is usually installed after leveling the wall where necessary. When the door is already installed, then the wall with the right side align. They start by measuring the angles, taking into account the height of the side door slopes, not forgetting about the upper slope.

Walls near door slopes should be carefully plastered and trowelled. Before working on the slopes, rules are hung in their upper part, which must be hung on each of the lateral sides strictly vertically. The plaster solution is applied with a spatula, starting from the bottom up.

If you need to make several layers, then you need to dry them one by one before applying each next layer. Plaster is applied to door slopes, not only to create an even layer, but also an attractive appearance. At the same time, they are able to provide additional heat and noise insulation.

Depending on the location of the door, the appropriate choice of the type of plaster is carried out.

It can be external or internal. The technology of plastering door slopes is reduced to the following principles of operation:

The production of a template for removing excess plaster is made of plywood or chipboard.

1. The door is installed at the same level, and the side parts door frame positioned to the left and right at an even distance from the walls.
2. Caulking the cracks should be done with pre-prepared heaters, which must be carefully filled in all the cracks.
3. You can process the felt with tow with a 3% solution of potassium fluoride.
4. Before plastering, the surface of the door slopes is cleaned and metal pendulum slats are installed, which help to level the surface to the maximum.
5. can be produced using the starting facade plaster or cement mortar.
6. When plastering the external slopes of the doors, various impurities must be present in the mortar, allowing to extend the life of the mortar.
7. The choice of the type of plaster is carried out for a certain type of premises - residential or non-residential.

The process of mashing the plaster is carried out by “racking”, and the rules can be removed only after the grout is done. The side slopes should have a small segment, the sharp shrinkage of which should have a length of 20-30 cm.Rounded or flat chamfers should be made from below.

What tools and materials will you need?

Performing all work related to plastering window and door slopes requires increased care and utmost care. This can also be done by beginners who have not previously been involved in similar types of work. All requirements related to the rules of finishing works are strictly defined. Their observance will allow you to qualitatively arrange the surface of the door slopes, as well as save money.

The finished door slope should have a neat even layer of plaster, and this can be achieved with the following materials and tools:

Tools and devices for plastering slopes.

• drill with attachment;
• two-meter building level;
• rule;
• a spatula whose width exceeds the width of the slope;
• flat brush for priming the surface;
• perforated metal corners to protect external corners;
• polyurethane foam;
• glue "liquid nails";
• fiberglass plaster mesh;
• perforated corners with mesh;
• masking tape;
• fine sandpaper.

The solution should be prepared using dry gypsum plaster, which must be diluted to a certain consistency. If you use foam, you can save the solution. If there are potholes great depth in the slope, the used foam is laid in pieces in those places that are deeper. This must also be done when the thickness of the door slope is more than 2 cm.

The door frame will not deteriorate if you cover its surface with masking tape. They start priming and plastering only after that. At the final stage, they produce rough finish by using sandpaper, after which the surface is primed.

How to properly plaster door slopes?

Image 1. In order to get an even angle, set perforated corner.

The slopes are finished with cement and sand mortar. First, the surface is prepared: all remnants of obsolete layers of putty and paint are first removed, and then the old plaster. With a strong attachment of the plaster layer, special notches are made on it, which make it possible to increase the level of quality of adhesion of the following layers with door slopes. Then it is necessary to moisten the base with water in order to apply a solution of cement and sand.

For the final elimination of all defects, a grater is used. Around the edges window openings you should install the rails, which are guides. It is imperative to keep under control the level of verticality of the location of the slopes, which is associated with their evenness. Further work should be carried out by analogy with finishing the upper slope.

Before plastering, the surface must be treated with a layer of “Betonokontakt” primer or another, which needs to be diluted in a small amount of water, by installing a perforated corner with a mesh (image 1) and an upper slope along the level.

So that the corner does not stand out on a flat wall surface, the plaster is cut with a knife to a depth of 3 mm. With the help of a level applied to the surface of the wall and a knife, a horizontal line is drawn. After that, the plaster is removed from the end. The resulting recess is used to install the corner.

The installation of perforated corners on the "Rotband" is carried out in a similar way. Use the level that is applied to check the verticality of the installation. Perforated corners can perfectly protect the outer corners of door slopes, which will later serve as beacons when plastering.

For the evenness of plastering, a special rule can be set on the slope.

Small studs can be used to attach the corners. The main thing is to make sure that they cannot move. For this, the horizontal and vertical are pre-measured using a building level. If the vertical is violated, a piece of drywall is usually placed underneath, which will allow the corner to be evenly strengthened.

After leveling the walls and fixing the corners with a spatula, begin. To do this, you can use the Rotband plaster, which has excellent qualities. It should be mixed with water in the required proportions by hand or with a drill with special nozzle... This will create a mixture that will not drip.

If necessary, you can apply a thick layer of plaster. Plastering technology involves the initial drawing of a layer of plaster, followed by drying it. This will give it strength, and the layer will not be able to fall off. Then the door slopes and corners are withdrawn, completely rubbing the surface.

If the slopes have irregularities, and the size of the mortar layer is more than 1 cm, then a special mesh is used. This is due to the appearance of cracks on the surfaces. Therefore, you will have to start doing all the work from the beginning. It is better to start plastering from the top in order to get a certain kind of beam resting on both posts. This can increase the strength of the slopes. In this case, pieces of plaster will not fall off.

The upper tier should be reinforced with a rail, which should be installed on the plane of the doorway from above. This will allow you to rely on it with a rule that can be used to remove excess solution. Then the layer of solution must be left to dry, and later removed using the rule and smooth the surface of the slope, which can be covered with various defects, which are pits or other types of irregularities. To eliminate them, it is necessary to leave the plane of the door slopes to dry out for a certain time.

The rules are attached at an equal and equal distance from each other along the entire slope height.

It is permissible to use a certain trick, which is associated with the fact that the surface of the frame is not completely hidden under the layer of cement mortar and its certain part is outside. Therefore, the rail must have a drink exactly in a certain place, which belongs to the frame. In this case, adjustment is possible due to a certain depth of this cut, as well as the height to which the window frame protrudes from under the layers of plaster.

What should you pay special attention to?

Plaster consumption table.

The slopes should be plastered after waiting for the plaster solution to dry completely, because with the accelerated evaporation process, the mixture with cement will not become stronger, but it will be covered with cracks. When performing plastering, create a draft protection.

A layer of plaster applied to the slopes of the doors will give them an even look, which will be associated with the creation of a layer of heat and sound insulation. The type of mixture for plaster is chosen based on the method of installing the door, which can be internal or external. For example, slopes leading to a bathroom or sauna are best treated with a cement-based solution, and indoor spaces must be treated with lime-gypsum mortar.

During the subsequent installation of the doors, it is necessary to ensure that the location of both parts of the door frame is at an equal distance from opposite walls. The installation of the doors should be carried out at the same level, and the gaps in the openings formed should be sealed with felt, tow or polyurethane foam.

Then they install steel beacons to help level the surface. Both the first and second beacons should be installed at the same level and equal distance from the location of the door frame. Plaster is applied in a series of techniques, their number is determined by the size of the layer thickness.

Image 2. The plaster is cleaned using a sanding belt holder.

If plastering of the outer slopes of the doors is required, then water-repellent impurities are added to the cement solution, which protect against moisture penetration. This extends the useful life of the cement mix.

The choice of mortar for plaster must be explained by the fact that not every mixture is suitable for finishing residential premises in terms of its properties. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully study the instructions on the packaging, at the same time having consulted with the sales administrators of the company that sells this type of finishing material, or with the sellers in the store.

After the plaster is completely dry, the surface is cleaned using a sanding belt holder, to which is attached an abrasive mesh sheet (image 2), used instead of sandpaper. After that, the surface is covered with a finishing putty and painted.

How to plaster door slopes? This question is of interest to very many and when installing new door, and when carrying out repairs. The service life of the doorway directly depends on the quality of the work.

In order for the doorway to serve you for more than one year, you need to pay great attention to the correct creation of the slopes. Today you can find a wide variety of materials in order to make door slopes of the highest quality, practical and, of course, beautiful. The most popular materials include:

• Drywall, which is able to quickly solve problems uneven surface... The main advantage of using this material is that you do not need to build frame installation to create slopes.
• Plastic. These products should only be used if you have installed in the house plastic doors... If you want to combine PVC with other materials, get ready that the slopes will stand out very much against the background of such doors.
• Natural wood. The tree, of course, goes well with almost any interior, but the creation of such slopes can cost you quite a lot, because the price natural wood high enough.
• The cheapest and fastest method for creating slopes is to plaster them. In addition, plastering has other advantages: high level strength, long term operation and low price. In this case, you just need to cover the slopes with plaster, after which the products can be painted, varnished, or choose another finishing method.
  

It is about how to plaster the door slopes that we will talk today. We will also tell you how to carry out a fine finish so that the slopes look great.

Like any Finishing work, plastering door slopes is done using certain materials. When preparing a mixture of plaster, one should not save on cement, otherwise, after a while, the coating may simply fall off. The most optimal proportion is considered to be the preparation of a composition from 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand, while it is best to use river sand which contains the minimum amount of clay.

If the finishing is carried out indoors, then it is better to prepare a mixture with a small amount of alabaster - it will make it easier to work with the upper slopes. This point is especially important if the jumpers are curved. That is why a large thickness of the coating of the composition is so important - so that the mixture can adhere in such difficult places. For safety, you can use a masonry mesh. Before proceeding directly to the work, you need, as you already understood, to acquire the necessary tools and carry out preparation.

So, be sure to clean the base by removing paint, wallpaper or other Decoration Materials, remove the old plaster, and thoroughly clean the stains and dirt using soap solution and degreasing agents. Highly an important milestone is a surface primer that not only provides high-quality adhesion, but also prevents the spread of pathogenic bacteria and rot, which can appear under the plaster as a result of temperature changes or high humidity.

For this stage, it is advisable to use a primer. deep penetration or focus on the material from which the base is made (concrete, wood, drywall, brick).

How to plaster door slopes - step by step diagram

Step 1: Installing beacons

To mount beacons, use either aluminum profiles or even wooden slats, which are installed using alabaster or fastened with self-tapping screws. The main thing is to use building level so that the rails are parallel to each other, otherwise the slopes will turn out to be curves.

Step 2: making the notches

In fact, plastering door slopes is not the most final stage for ennobling the doorway. Undoubtedly, many end up with simple plaster, but there are other methods that will give the surface a more aesthetic appearance.... Naturally, the choice of materials in this case also depends on the interior of your home. When choosing materials, also rely on the recommendations below:

• When it comes to inner slopes, it should be borne in mind that they will be exposed to dirt and dust, and therefore the material for the slopes in this case should be well cleaned.
• Speaking about entrance doors, especially in a private house, it should be remembered that the slopes will be exposed to moisture - temperature drops inside and outside the room often lead to condensation. Some finishing materials do not perceive moisture at all or quickly deteriorate under its influence. In this case, it is advisable not to use plasterboard sheets and wood.
• Do not forget that slopes can be subject to mechanical stress, which must also be taken into account. That is why it is undesirable to use plastic products for entrance doors, which are very easy to damage.

We told you how to plaster the door slopes, which means it's time to improve the look of your home, because doors play an important role in this.

The quality of the plastering of the slopes depends on how long the door frame will last. We will figure out how to quickly and efficiently plaster the door slopes ourselves and how to save money on doing these works with our own hands.

Plastering the slopes is a necessary work on finishing the doorway after installing a new door frame. The appearance and the period of trouble-free service of the door directly depend on how high-quality the finishing of the slopes is. To do these jobs correctly, you need a certain skill. But still, it is quite possible to plaster the door slopes with your own hands. Let's figure out how this is done.

Why are the slopes trimmed

First of all, let's find out what tasks the slope processing should solve. This operation is performed for a variety of reasons:

• Heat retention and protection from extraneous noise... A layer of plaster hides all the cracks, therefore warm air is no longer blown out by drafts. It is also more difficult for extraneous sounds to get into the room if the slopes are properly sealed.
• UV protection. Ultra-violet rays located in sunlight, gradually cause degradation of the polyurethane foam. A layer of plaster prevents UV rays from acting on the foam, which means that the durability of the door and door frame is increased.
• Finishing and finishing. The embedded slopes have a much more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, only after plastering work can we finally assert that the door has been installed in place.
• The basis for further finishing work. To install panels or paint a wall, you must first carefully align it, remove all height differences, cracks, caverns. These tasks are performed by plastering work.

That is why, after installing the doors, it is necessary to finish the slopes with great care. It is quite possible to cope with this work on your own. But you need to prepare everything you need and master the technology for performing work.

Choosing materials

To create a layer of plaster, you can use various construction compositions... All components for their manufacture can be purchased at hardware stores. Here are the most common slope finishing solutions:

• A mixture based on cement and sand. The classic of plastering materials, which fully corresponds to the principle of "cheap and cheerful". It is quite simple to make it: a part of the cement is taken, mixed with water (it needs a little less volume) and mixed with three to four parts of pitch. The amount of sand is selected by concentration: it should resemble thick sour cream.

  Slopes, for which finishing was used cement-sand mixture, do not look too aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, this option is most suitable as a base for subsequent finishing.

• Cement-sandy composition with the addition of alabaster. Alabaster, gypsum and other similar additives allow the finished substance to harden faster; in addition, the solution becomes more plastic.
• Ready mixes for plastering slopes. As an example, let us call mixtures from Knauf: gypsum plaster Rotband and MP-74 mix. But you can take mixtures of a similar purpose produced by other manufacturers. The plus of this choice is good qualities solution and a fairly aesthetic appearance of the finished surface. The downside is the higher price.

It is difficult to unequivocally advise one or another variant of a mixture for plaster. The choice is made based on the budget allocated for these works, the personal preferences of the master and the purpose of the finished surface (i.e., is it planned to fine finishing or not).

Required materials and tools

For a job to be successful, it is important to have the right toolkit to get it done. We will figure out what is required for plastering slopes with our own hands and how to choose the right tool.

First of all, you need to prepare the level. It is better if there are at least 2 ampoules on it. When choosing a length, it is better to stop at an instrument of about 1 m. The shorter one will be inconvenient to work (you will have to shift it too often and the risk of making "steps" is higher), and with a long instrument it will not be possible to turn between the walls and the jamb.

For marking, you will need a tape measure (a 2-meter one is enough), a simple pencil goniometer. To get the surfaces in an optimal way, you will need an aluminum rule.

To prepare the solution and apply it to the wall, you need to prepare:

• A bowl for preparing a mixture.
• Scale for measuring volumes.
• Dishes for water.
• Tools for applying the ready-made mixture to the walls: a spatula (5 cm), a trowel (as used by bricklayers), trowels and trowels (if you plan to plaster with cement-based mixtures). If you plan to use a plaster-based mixture, instead of a trowel and grater, you will need a wide (45 cm) trowel, a trowel and a sponge-based trowel.
• Pickaxe hammer.

You will also need to take care of protective equipment. Mixtures based on gypsum and cement are very aggressive on the skin of the hands. Therefore, you need to take care of gloves (a medical sample will suffice). You also need a work gown or other workwear. In order not to dust your eyes and hair while working, you should also choose a hat and goggles.

Another aspect safe work- reliable support for the legs. Do not work from wobbly stools or chairs. Reliable stepladder - already somewhat more suitable option, but it will often have to be rearranged, and your legs will get tired from working on a narrow site. Therefore, if possible, it is worth putting together comfortable goats.

Preparatory work

Slope plastering work must be performed as carefully as possible. The door, when closing and opening (especially with sharp blows), transmits vibration to the box, so poorly applied plaster can simply fall off. Therefore, if you want the repairs not to be required as long as possible, you need to perform all the work as carefully as possible and prepare the walls well for work.

The door frame is installed even before the start of work on finishing the slopes. So the structure will be more durable, and it will not be necessary to fill the gaps between the wall and the slopes. When installing, be sure to use a level to check that the box is as even as possible vertically and horizontally. If necessary, use wooden wedges for adjustment.

Before starting work, do not forget to protect the door leaf and jambs from getting into building mixtures... You can glue the protected surfaces with tape, cover them with newspapers or plastic wrap.

First, you need to prepare the surfaces in a rough version. La this is removed old plaster and pieces of bricks sticking out of the slope. You can hit them by hand or use a puncher.

The next step is to remove dirt and cement residues. Use a wet rag or spatula to remove all layers from the brick or concrete slab... The more carefully this step is performed, the less the risk that the plaster will fall off along with the dirt.

Before depositing the plaster, you need to wait for the cleaned walls to dry thoroughly. Only then can you start plastering work.

How to plaster door slopes. Step-by-step instruction

Execute plastering work do it yourself on door slopes not very difficult. But the technology must be strictly adhered to. Here are the basic steps to get started:

1. We evaluate the surface and determine approximately how much solution will have to be put. If necessary (if you have to put a lot of mortar), a grid with cells of 10 by 10 cm is nailed to the wall with nails. The grid will allow the solution to lay down more evenly and hold on more firmly.
2. The slope is reinforced with a corner made of a perforated light-alloy aluminum profile. Corner fix cement mortar and aligned so that its edge does not protrude from the wall. The squeezed out solution is removed.
3. The protruding fragments of polyurethane foam are cut with a knife and protected from moisture. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier sealant or film is applied to it.
4. The surfaces are treated with a primer so that the plaster adheres better. The type of soil is selected based on the used plaster and wall material.
5. After the surface is thoroughly dry, they start plastering. Throw the solution onto the wall with a spatula and level it, removing excess solution. Especially carefully you need to monitor the condition of the corners. Usually, the plaster is performed in two stages: rough and final. Sufficient time should pass between the two steps for the mortar to set well. You can even wait a day.
6. When the finishing layer dries up, the plaster is carefully trowelled, reaching an even surface.

By following these steps, you can get perfectly flat slopes with your own hands.

Practically gained experience is necessary in every case. Therefore, advice from craftsmen who perform finishing work professionally are especially valuable. Here's what professional finishers advise:

Finishing of slopes is a crucial stage, on the quality of which the service life of the door directly depends on. But if you study the technology and prepare everything you need, you can do it yourself, even with minimal finishing work skills.

Surface can be plastered

To make a door with your own hands, or to order it in a workshop, it is very important to "take measurements" correctly. Inaccurate measurement of the entrance door opening, in best case, will lead to the formation of large gaps, which will have to be repaired and insulated. In the worst case, you have to think about how to increase doorway, which will bring even more trouble.

Sometimes it is necessary to build a partition or partition into which a door of a given size will be inserted. But sometimes you have to solve more serious problems - for example, the construction of an opening where it has never been.

On request: "Preparation doorways video ”, you can always find a suitable video, where the masters share their experience. For our part, we will try to shoe you theoretically, relying on building rules and technology - after all, the opening needs not only to be correctly calculated, but also to level it qualitatively.

So:

• The easiest way, of course, is when the construction of the house is carried out, as it should be, according to the project. The documentation contains a scheme for filling doorways, an example of which you can see below. It indicates the sizes and types of doors, as well as the gaps in the walls where they will be inserted.

• As a matter of fact, when erecting walls, masons immediately make such openings as needed - the main thing is that they have accurate information on door markings that will be installed in load-bearing and self-supporting structures. But as for the partitions, then for internal layout most often today they are no longer invited to bricklayers, but to drywall specialists.

The structure device in the GVL partition (see) - the procedure is not so complicated, and can be performed independently. But, of course, work must be approached with understanding, and try not to confuse anything regarding the size of the opening.

After watching the video in this article, you may well be able to cope with the task at hand. Below we offer you a small instruction on this topic.

Opening in the frame partition

The thickness of the door frame made of wood is on average 5 cm - it is this distance, coupled with the size of the canvas, that is the full dimensions. All instructions for measuring the opening for installing a door boils down to adding along its perimeter the size of the installation gap, which should be within 3-6 cm.

It is then sealed with polyurethane foam. Deviations of a couple of millimeters are not critical, but it is better if they are in the big direction.

Note! Maybe not everyone knows that in the door marking, in decimeters, the size of the canvas is encrypted, taking into account the thickness of the box. If it is required, for example, to put a DG 21 * 9 door, the minimum opening should be 2.160m in height and 0.980m in width. This principle applies not only to doors installed in partitions, but in general to all similar structures.

• Since the plasterboard partition is frame structure, then the opening in it is formed at the time of installation load-bearing elements... For manufacturing can be used wooden blocks, but more often still, an aluminum profile is used for this purpose: a guide, and a rack. Its dimensions are selected depending on the dimensions of the partition and the weight of the installed door, for example: PN75 / 40 and PS75 / 50.

Partition frame

• First, on the floor, ceiling and walls, the perimeter of the future partition is drawn, along which, with the back to base surface, the guide profile is mounted. Its shelves form a groove into which vertical posts and lintels will be inserted. Before installing the lower guide, it is necessary to mark the position of the opening on the chipping line, because the profile is not attached there.
• Of the vertical load-bearing elements, the first to be exposed are those that form the doorway. The distance between them, as already mentioned, should exceed the width of the door with the frame by 8-10 cm. Then, a cross member is mounted between these two posts, which will limit the height of the opening.
• Cut it out of the PN profile, and mount it so that the shelves are turned towards the ceiling. Depending on the method of installing the gypsum board around the door, one or two short intermediate posts will be inserted into it, giving rigidity to the opening. For the same purpose, wooden blocks of the corresponding section are inserted into the groove of the side posts, to which the box will then be attached (see).

Everything is ready to install the door

• How the frame of the partition looks roughly can be clearly seen in the previous photo. How to properly cut a profile, use the method of bending the fastening, what distance should be between the frame elements, and other necessary information, look for articles specifically devoted to this topic, as well as on request: "Preparing a video doorway".

We talk about this only in general terms, since the article is devoted to the process of aligning the opening. Although there is nothing to align in the plasterboard partitions. Usually the thickness of the partition is made in accordance with the door frame.

If no mistakes were made during installation, it remains only to putty the surface of the walls adjacent to the box, finish them, and close the joints with a platband.

Formation of a smooth opening

A completely different matter is the repair of openings in the bathroom, or so, which will be discussed below. In these places, there are no plasterboard partitions, but there are rather thick load-bearing walls.

The opening of the front door is often filled with one box with two canvases or several bindings. This is justified by the fact that one door, for example, can be metal, and the second wooden.

The space between them is called a plug. Considering that the thickness load-bearing wall can be quite impressive - for example, two bricks (51 cm), it is natural that even a double binding does not completely fill the opening. Most often, the door is placed outside the door flush with the wall, and slopes are obtained inside.

Slopes can be plastered and thus get rid of curved surfaces. Then everything needs to be putty

Sometimes they are sewn up with wood, or MDF, but most often they are plastered cement plaster... In any case, after replacing the door, or in the process of overhauling the walls, when the plaster must be knocked down to the ground, the geometry of the slopes is significantly disturbed, and you have to think about how to level the opening.

Slope alignment methods

So we come to the most difficult stage of wall renovation. By the way, the invited masters take some money for plastering the slopes, and the price, I must say, is rather big - about 250-300 rubles per running meter.

Thus, a slope of one door measuring 2.1 * 0.9 m will cost at least 1300 rubles. Although, such work may not take too much time - it all depends on the initial state of the opening.

• Try to do it yourself, especially since you can use a variety of materials at hand for work. The alignment of the side walls of the opening without a door is carried out according to the same principle as plastering rectangular columns. On the sides of the slope, adjusting the level, two long aluminum rules are fixed on both sides, pushing them beyond the surface plane by the thickness of the plaster.
• The rules, in this case, serve as beacons, but in principle, you can do without them. The role of rules is equally well performed by regular profiles for drywall, which are mounted on self-tapping screws or dowels, backs to the side surface of the opening. In the same way as the rules, they need to be pushed forward by the thickness of the screed.

• If there is a door in the opening, then the beacons are mounted only on one side. In the first case, the excess solution is removed with a short rule, a small, or wide spatula. If there is a door in the opening, it is necessary to make such a template from scrap materials, which is shown in the picture above.
• It can be made from a piece of plywood, hardboard, drywall or even thick cardboard. The main thing is to make a recess on the template, exactly fitting the protrusion of the door frame. This will create a clear line of the plaster layer around the door. After the solution has set, but has not yet hardened, the beacons are carefully removed, and an angle is formed, cutting off everything unnecessary with a spatula.
• When the leveling screed, which is made with a base mixture with a coarse dispersion of components, dries, a plaster perforated corner is mounted on it. And then putty. If there is no major damage on the slopes, then a thick layer of plaster will not need to be applied.

• In this case, you can do without lighthouse profiles, and immediately mount the corner. By the way, when plastering walls and slopes with specialized mixtures, you can simplify the leveling process using the same drywall. If you cut out narrow long strips and glue them to the putty along the box racks, you will get a perfectly even abutment.
• Aligned in level, these strips serve as beacons for the application of the leveling layer. You do not need to remove them, since after the starting layer has dried, the drywall strips will be hidden under the putty. The upper slope, by the way, is also more convenient to level with plasterboard.

Plaster mixes, especially when it is necessary to apply a thick layer, do not adhere very well to horizontal surfaces. We have to mount the mesh, apply several layers, and each time wait until they dry.

And the wall drywall itself has a minimum thickness of 12 mm, plus a thick layer of glue, which allows you to level the slope in one step.

Openings where there were none

Sometimes, when overhaul or redevelopment of apartments or houses, the owner decides to change the size of the opening. If the walls are load-bearing, such actions are preceded by obtaining a permit, if it is just a partition, then the housing commission is notified of the fact of the work performed. But now is not about that.

Passages are made in different ways, the choice of which depends on the structural material of the wall. Accordingly, slopes are formed in different ways. In brick, foam concrete and asbestos-cement partitions, passages are cut. These materials are quite soft, therefore, large costs for cutting the opening are not required.

Naturally, this is done according to preliminary marking, after which alignment is performed and finishing... If the passage just needs to be widened, then it is easier to do it only on one side. Although, the layout does not always allow you to make it easier, and you have to cut the opening on both sides.

Cutting and strengthening

Diamond cutting of openings, performed with the help of specialized wall sawing equipment, although more expensive, can solve the problem with a design of any thickness and strength.

So:

• At the same time, there is no dust, since such equipment is equipped with a dust-collecting device. Dirt, of course, happens, but from the fact that the working blade of the wall saw in the process has to be cooled with water. But, with such equipment, everything is done exactly in size, quickly, and without unnecessary noise.
• Since the integrity of the structure is violated during the cutting process, and a fragment that has taken on certain loads is removed, the openings are necessarily reinforced with rolled metal. In curtain walls, the perimeter of the opening is strapped with a steel corner 40 * 40 mm and connecting plates.

Gain

• In multi-layer walls - for example, frame houses, amplification is carried out square tube embedded inside the surface and fixed to the floor. For partitions in half a brick, a channel is selected the right size, mounted U-shaped on both sides, and attached to the ceiling and floor.
• In general, the options for strengthening may be different, and they are determined by the project, without which such work is not performed (see). Reinforcement of openings is also carried out in cases where the strength of the structural material of the wall is insufficient to withstand, for example, a steel door.

Arched passage with polyurethane edging

Whatever the finish of such openings, their slopes must be plastered with cement plaster. To hide the metal structures, you have to apply a thick layer of mortar, and this is done necessarily on a coarse-mesh steel mesh mounted on the opening surfaces.

After the plaster is completely dry, the opening can be revetted polyurethane stucco- and no one will guess that there are metal structures under it.