Nothing is eternal. And the most reliable Bosch rock drills start to break down over time. But any malfunction can be repaired by hand if you have detailed manual to implement renovation works... Below we offer you a guide to troubleshooting Bosch rotary hammer drills and how to troubleshoot them.
The main reasons for the appearance of breakdowns are:

• careless work with the tool;
• improper storage of the punch;
• heavy loads when working on working bodies when chiselling or drilling;
• overheating of the tool;
• long-term work without interruption;
• failure to comply with the terms of maintenance.

Conditionally, faults can be divided into mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical malfunctions of the Bosch rotary hammer

In the event of mechanical malfunctions in the operation of the tool, an extraneous unpleasant sound, sparking increases in the collector area, a burning smell appears, the instrument heats up excessively, its power decreases depending on the duration of work and the effect on the material.

We will consider all the malfunctions on the Bosch 2-26 perforator diagram. The rest of the models, such as Bosch 2-20, 2-24, are fitted with various drunken bearings.

The hammer drill stops hammering, but drills

The hammer drill does not hammer under load or idle for the following reasons:

• the rubber rings of the striker, striker, piston are worn out;
• the rolling bearing cage collapsed;
• the cylinder collapsed, the firing pin of the barrel of the percussion mechanism;
• cut the splines of the clutch mounted on the intermediate shaft;

The hammer drill stopped drilling, but hollows

The main reasons for which a hammer drill hammers, but does not drill, are:

• the force of the conical spring that presses the clutch has weakened;
• the locking roller does not fix the large gear of the barrel shaft;
• does not hold the tool locking mechanism in the barrel;
• The hammer drill does not hammer or drill.

The main reasons why the hammer drill does not hammer or drill are:

• sheared teeth on the small rotor gear or on the large countershaft gear;
• the electric motor of the perforator does not work;
• there is no power to the hammer drill motor.

Now about everything in order

Consider the options in which the hammer drill does not hammer, but drills

Wear of rubber rings on the striker, striker, piston.

This reason appears gradually, as the rubber rings wear out. At first, the blow weakens, then disappears altogether.

The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the indicated rubber rings with new ones.

With any repair of perforators, its assemblies, all rubber products are subject to replacement.

Collapsed rolling bearing race (drunk bearing)

When the drunk bearing, pos. 830, is destroyed, the rotary movement of the intermediate shaft cannot be converted into the translational movement of the cylinder in the percussion mechanism.

Eliminated by completely replacing the rolling bearing.

The cylinder, the striker, the barrel striker of the percussion mechanism collapsed

There are times when the drummer bites into the cylinder poz.26, which leads to the destruction of the cylinder and the impossibility of creating air pressure in the barrel of the impact mechanism. And the second reason: destruction or breakage of the striker pos. 28, leading to the distortion of the part and the impossibility of transmitting the shock impulse.
Breakdowns are eliminated by complete replacement of the failed parts.

Cut off the splines of the clutch poz.67 installed on the intermediate shaft

The malfunction is eliminated by repairing the clutch or completely replacing it.
During repairs, worn-out teeth are filed on the clutch. To correct this defect, a round file and a drill are used. The clutch is clamped in the hand, and the tooth profiles are straightened with a drill with an appropriate file. The splines on the intermediate shaft are modified in a similar way.

Consider the options in which the hammer drill drills, but does not hammer

The force of the conical spring pressing the clutch has weakened

When the spring pressure (pos. 50) decreases, the clutch slips on the intermediate shaft, without transferring rotation from the small spur gear to the large gear (pos. 22) of the barrel shaft, pos. 821, of the percussion mechanism. By the way, on different models Bosch.

The lock roller does not lock the large barrel shaft gear

The large gear wheel, pos. 22, is attached to the shaft of the barrel, pos. 01, by the roller, pos. 88, pressed against the shoulder of the shaft by a conical spring, pos. 80, and fixed with a retaining ring, pos. 85.

The reason may be a weakening of the force of the conical spring, pos. 80, destruction of the retaining ring, pos. 85, falling out of the fixing roller, pos. 88.

Does not hold the drill mechanism for fixing the tool in the drill barrel

Bosch rotary hammers use two types of chuck: SDS-plus and SDS-max. The difference is in the design of the locking mechanism.

The reason is the wear of the antennae of the raster sleeve of the chuck, which leads to the impossibility of transmitting the shock pulse to the working tool of the perforator.

Consider the options in which the hammer drill does not drill or chisel

Cut teeth on the small rotor gear

There is a rotation of the gears with cutting teeth on one of them, more often on a small one.

When the working tool is jammed and the clutch does not work properly, wear or complete destruction of the gear teeth on the perforator shaft and the intermediate shaft occurs.

In this case, the rotor or the large gear of the intermediate shaft is completely changed.

The hammer drill motor does not work

The reasons for a not working electric motor can be:

• short circuit in the rotor, stator;
• destruction of coal electric brushes;
• weakening of the fastening of the brush holders;
• burnout of lamellas on the rotor manifold;
• breakage of the rotor or stator windings.

The listed malfunctions are eliminated by repair (manually rewinding the winding, replacing the collector and wiring the winding leads) or replacing the rotor, stator, carbon electric brushes with new ones.
The main part of the malfunctions of the electrical part of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer is confirmed by increasing sparking in the collector area.

The length of serviceable electric brushes cannot be less than 8 mm. When replacing one brush, the second should change automatically.

The rotor or stator windings can be rewound independently with your hands at home.

There is no power on the electric motor of the Bosch rotary hammer

The reason for this malfunction is a break in the wire that supplies power to the electric motor. Most often, a break occurs at the point where the cable enters the puncher. The wire should be replaced with a new one or repaired. The malfunction can be determined using a tester. If there is no tester, the fault can be found using the power phase and a screwdriver with an indicator neon lamp. Connecting the power wires in turn, at the other end, using a neon screwdriver, determine the presence or absence of a phase.

The punch button does not work. Determined by the short circuit tester.

Most often, a short circuit of the filter capacitor leads to the failure of the punch button. It is best to replace the button with a new one.

General electrical malfunctions of the Bosch rotary hammer 2-26

Failure of the punch in the electrical part is accompanied by the appearance of a burning smell, strong heating of the tool during operation, the appearance of large sparking in the area of ​​the punch rotor collector, and poor response of the reverse switch.

The operation of the perforator is influenced by the condition of the carbon brushes, the reliability of the attachment of the brush holders and their correct installation.

A burning smell appears when the stator or rotor windings are short-circuited.

A drop in the power of the perforator with increasing load is characteristic when there is a break in the rotor windings or with a short length of carbon brushes.

A short inter-turn circuit in the stator or rotor most often leads to heating of the perforator.

Large sparking in the collector area is caused by inter-turn closure of the rotor or burnout of the collector lamellas.

Disruption of the reverse switch occurs due to the burning of its contacts.

But the main reason for all breakdowns is the untimely performance of technical maintenance work and the replacement of carbon brushes.

Carbon brushes need to be replaced after 70 hours of operation or when worn up to 8 mm in length.

We have given the main reasons for the failure of Bosch rotary hammers.
Perhaps we have not described all the breakdowns of Bosch rotary hammers.

If you know other malfunctions with Bosch rotary hammers 2-20, 2-24, 2-26, share with us.

I wish you success!

Video of replacing the raster bushing in the Bosch chuck 2-26

Video of replacing the anchor in hammer drill Bosch 2-26

The hammer drill always works in difficult conditions and after a while it may fail. A cheap fake can be bought again, but a branded model cannot be just thrown away. In order not to pay a "round" amount for the repair, you can repair the punch with your own hands. But for this it is necessary to imagine what assemblies the tool consists of, the procedure for disassembling it and the possible replacement of certain parts.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

Screwdriver Tweezers Pliers

How does a puncher work

Any electromechanical device becomes unusable over time. If you have certain skills, then you can try doing a DIY repair. To do this, you need to know the principle of operation and the device of perforators, which are divided into two types:

1. The engine is installed horizontally.

1. The motor is upright.

For repairs, this does not really matter. All other details are almost identical. Any device consists of two main parts:

1. Electric:

• power cord;
• elements suppressing interference (capacitor, chokes);
• switch;
• engine control device (UUD);
• collector motor (anchor, brushes).

In some models, the switch is combined with the control device.

1. Mechanical:

• gearbox (gear) on the motor shaft;
• clutch;
• shock-translational mechanism pneumatic (piston) or mechanical;
• clamping chuck.

In expensive devices, for convenience and safety, auxiliary mechanisms are installed:

• depth limit;
• vacuum cleaner;
• mode switch;
• bit fixing
• others.

How to repair a hammer drill with your own hands?

Many people who are ignorant of technology, bringing a tool for repair, always describe the breakdown with the words "the punch stopped hammering" or "it does not turn on." And only with a meticulous questioning do they remember that they pressed hard on him, did not lubricate him, worked with network fluctuations (during operation, the "light blinked"). All this causes the failure of the apparatus and the appearance of damage, which are subdivided into:

1. Electrical:

• the device does not turn on;
• sparks are visible in the case;
• turnovers do not change;
• there is smoke from the hull;
• when turned on, knocks out (automatic) plugs.

1. Mechanical:

• the punch does not hammer;
• a grinding or crackling sound is heard;
• modes are not switched;
• liquid flows out of the device during operation.

Correct disassembly of the rotary hammer

To repair a particular malfunction, any electromechanical device must be disassembled. Each model has its own nuances in performance. Although almost all tool cases are made of two halves, the disassembly method of one brand may not work with the model of the other.

Many models' cases are made up of a front and a back half when viewed from the chuck side. The screws tightening the body are located parallel to the slotting axis and if the caliber of the chuck is less than the diameter of the body, then it is easy to unscrew them. But on many devices the diameters are the same. Therefore, you must first remove the cartridge, and then disassemble the rest.

For other models, the case can be disassembled from the side. Unscrew the screws, remove half of the case and all the mechanics, as if "in the palm of your hand". You can immediately proceed to the inspection. True, to repair the electrical part, you will need to unscrew the handle, but this is no longer so difficult. The main points of disassembly and assembly can be found on the Internet at the YOUTUBE service. Therefore, let's go directly to the repair.

Electrical malfunctions and their elimination

1. The device does not turn on for the following reasons:

• A break in the cord (usually at the handle itself). The cord should be replaced or shortened, cleaned, carefully threaded into the rubber shock absorber on the handle and soldered into the appropriate places.
• Poor contact in the switch (eg oxidation).
• Breakage (combustion) of extinguishing elements. They should be replaced. For a while (if there are no such elements), you can connect the engine "directly" to the UUD. Please note - this method can lead to rapid motor wear.
• Combustion of the UUD itself. Change to a new one.
• Breakage or burnout of the windings. Must be taken to a workshop or a friend for rewinding.

Advice: Broken cord or windings, non-contact of the switch and combustion of extinguishing elements, check with a tester.

1. Sparks are visible inside the case. They are called by:

• Poor adhesion of the brushes to the armature due to wear. It is necessary to change the brushes or sharpen them with a file (fine "sandpaper").
• Anchor oxidation. To be cleaned with a student's rubber or alcohol.

1. The rpm does not change due to a malfunction of the UUD. To be replaced, but can be dispensed with for a while.
2. Smoke comes from faulty windings, brushes or other elements. For example, due to the "sticking" of the motor, the windings begin to heat up and smoke. Visual inspection required
3. A short circuit of the cord (insulation breakdown) or a switch can cause knocking out of the plugs.

Mechanical malfunctions and their elimination

There is no single answer to the natural question of why the hammer drill does not hammer. This can happen for the reasons below:

1. The main function is not performed (does not hammer).

• Breakage of any of the metal parts inside many models in this order.

After inspection and identification of a malfunction, the unusable part is replaced.

• Leakage of fluid from the cylinder due to damage to the gaskets. Change the gasket.
• Dirt getting inside. Clean the tool.
• Solidification of the lubricant. Remove old grease and apply a new coat.
• Breakage of the gears of the reducer. Replace after detection.
• Defective bearings. Replace

1. A grinding or crackling sound is heard due to the following reasons:

• Poor lubrication. Be sure to change to the same. It is forbidden to use grease and other lubricants of this type.
• Cracked bearings or gears. Change.
• The details worked together. For example, the fingers of the mode switch. Change switch

1. The modes do not switch due to what happened:

• worn out or broken switch fingers.

The switch needs to be replaced, but you can temporarily turn the worn out pin 180 °.

• breakdown of seats. Be sure to change the switch.
• breakage of the fixing covers. Replace.

Spontaneous change of modes occurs due to breakage of the latch. Some people continue to work this way, but it is best to replace the retainer.

1. Fluid may leak due to deformation (rupture) of the gearbox or cylinder gaskets. After identifying a faulty gasket, it should be replaced.

Prevention during work

The shock-translating device and the gearbox of the device are subjected to heavy loads. Components become hot during operation, seals rub against moving parts and wear out. All this leads to malfunctions. To avoid premature breakdown of the device, the following instructions must be observed:

• completely change the lubricant of the gearbox every six months;
• remove the brushes every 6 months, inspect and replace them if necessary;
• after work, blow out the insides with a vacuum cleaner;
• do not forget to lubricate the rear end of the drill (chisel) before work. If this is not done, the firing pin and seals will quickly wear out.

Advice: Do not put pressure on the tool. With pressure, the striker's stroke decreases, it starts hitting faster. Because of this, the firing pin and seals become unusable.

A hammer drill is a tool, without which it is impossible to imagine the majority of construction and repair work today. Therefore, today every person associated with such works aspires to have this tool. A video about the repair of a hammer drill will be of interest to everyone who wants to be able to independently repair the breakdown of this tool.

Finding out the cause of the breakdown

To know what exactly needs to be repaired, it is worth understanding the reasons for the breakdown of the hammer drill. This video will help you to do this.

Replacing the bearing in the hammer drill

If, when working with a hammer drill, you hear an unusual "rustle" or feel that the drill "slips", it is time to replace the bearing. This video will tell you how to do this.

Disassembly of the rotary hammer reducer

The rotary hammer reducer is designed to transmit rotary motion to the chuck from the engine. This is what drives the impact mechanism. The gearbox must be disassembled to replace or lubricate parts. You will learn how to do this in the video.

Another story about the disassembly of the gearbox.

Rotary hammer lubrication

For that. To prevent the perforator from breaking and failing, you need to properly care for it. Regular lubrication of the rock drill is one of the prerequisites proper care behind the instrument. To lubricate the hammer drill, it must first be disassembled. You will learn how to do this by watching this video.

How to extend the life of a hammer drill

Protecting the hammer drill from dust means shedding its service life. If you want to know how you can make a dust protection for your instrument with your own hands, watch this video.

A properly working rotary hammer is an excellent assistant in the household and in production. This versatile tool with many functions allows you to comfortably solve even the most complex tasks. If the hammer drill breaks down, it is not at all necessary to immediately carry it for repair. Home master can independently disassemble and repair this tool. How to repair a hammer drill with your own hands?

Punch device and its mechanism

Unlike a drill, as well as an impact drill, the hammer drill has an enhanced impact function, which puts it an order of magnitude higher in situations where it is necessary to use a significant mechanical impact on the materials being processed.

This is achieved design features punch device. The device is equipped with an independent mechanism for generating a powerful pneumatic push of the working tool, and this ability of it frees the master from the use of physical efforts when drilling and chiselling concrete and stone.

The transformation of the rotational motion of the electric motor into the translational vibration of the percussion mechanism is performed by creating compression between the pistons. This movement is transmitted to the drummer. The striker, made of high strength steel, in turn sends energy compressed air directly on the working tool - a drill, chisel or blade. Such a device of the unit allows you to increase the impact power to a huge destructive force - 20 kJ.

Depending on the location of the engine, there are drill-shaped and barrel types of perforators.

1. The first type of device is similar to a drill, in which the motor is located in the same axis as the drill.
2. For rock drills of the second type, the motor is installed perpendicular to the drilling axis.

Drum rock drills are large in size, but at the same time have a more advanced cooling system, which allows you to operate the tool for a long time without stopping. Devices in the form of a drill are much more compact, they are convenient when working in cramped circumstances, when access to the object is limited.

Punch malfunction diagnosis

If, during operation, malfunctions in the operation of the perforator become apparent, disconnect it from the power supply and conduct an external inspection. If no external signs of damage are found, you will have to disassemble the case and look for the problem inside.

One of the reasons for the failure of the device is a break in the power cord. In this case, the hammer motor will not turn on. To diagnose it, you need to carefully inspect the cable connecting the instrument to the network. It must not be damaged, broken or melted. A good power cord remains cold during operation. If the wire is not in order, it should be replaced with an equivalent one. The cross-section of the conductive elements must correspond to the power consumed by the tool.

Universal diagnostic tool for electrical circuits

Conventionally, all the malfunctions of the hammer drill can be divided into two categories - mechanical and electrical.

Malfunctions in the mechanical part: the crown does not pull out of the barrel, the drill does not hammer, the drill does not rotate, and others

• the drill does not hammer;
• the drill does not rotate;
• the crown is not pulled out of the trunk (it is jammed);
• the chisel does not hold in the chuck (jumps out);
• are audible extraneous sounds inside the mechanism, grinding, vibration.

Electrical failures: the motor does not rotate, the brushes on the collector spark, and other types of breakdowns

The following symptoms indicate problems with the electrical part of the hammer drill:

• the motor does not rotate when turned on;
• brushes on the collector spark intensely;
• the smell of burnt insulation emanates from the body;
• acrid smoke escapes from the tool during operation.

In order to find out and eliminate the cause of all these phenomena, the puncher must be disassembled.

Disassembly and assembly procedure

You should start disassembling yourself only if you have the appropriate tools and equipment. To repair a punch with your own hands you will need:

• screwdrivers with different slots;
• vice;
• wrenches and socket (hex) wrenches;
• bearing pullers.

In addition, you will need spare parts for replacement, rubber seals and gaskets. To lubricate the gears of mechanisms you will need:

• grease;
• rags;
• cleaning solvent.

When self repair electric motor, in addition to a multimeter, you will need:

• spare carbon (or graphite) brushes;
• copper wire of the required section;
• template for rewinding reels.

Removing the cartridge

Dismantling the punch begins with removing the cartridge. As a rule, this is an SDS-plus system chuck, which is disassembled using a flat-head screwdriver. In this case, the chuck should not contain a drill or chisel.

There are times when the drill gets jammed and it is not so easy to get it. Then you need to use rubber hammer gently tap the chuck around the circumference and pour a few drops of WD-40 grease inside. After a few minutes, try again, the drill should be easily removed. After that, you can start disassembling the cartridge itself. Procedure:

1. Pull the plastic skirt down.
2. Remove the rubber protective boot with a screwdriver.
3. Unclip and remove the retaining ring located behind the boot.
4. Remove the plastic boot, spring, lock plates and balls.
5. Remove old grease from all parts and place in a clean place.

Schematic diagram SDS Chuck Device

Video: how to remove a drill stuck in a chuck

Removing the mode switch

To remove the mode switch, you must:

1. Move the toggle switch to the “strike” position (the hammer icon) and turn it about 1 cm further below.
2. Release the lever from its seat.
3. Pull the lever towards you.

The switch is removed in a position below the "shock"

How to check the start button and brushes

The rear cover must be removed to access the collector brushes and the start control button. For this, two or three screws are unscrewed from the plastic case (depending on the model).

If the cause of the malfunction lay in the wear of the brushes, you can eliminate it by installing a new pair. The working length of the brush must be at least 8 mm. Rubbing surface - no traces of scale or chips.

Disconnecting the carbon brushes from the manifold

The start button is checked with a multimeter. It must be remembered that the engine speed control system is also located inside the trigger mechanism. If melted plastic is visible on the button body, it should be replaced entirely, since it will no longer function properly.

After replacing the button, you need to reinstall the housing cover, do not forget to tighten the screws securely. Only then can the operation of the punch be checked.

How to disassemble an electric motor

To disassemble the electric motor, it is necessary to disconnect the motor housing from the gearbox. They are fastened together with four screw screws. If they are unscrewed, the mechanical part is easily separated from the plastic cover. During disassembly, the motor rotor is removed from the guide sleeve, freeing access to the gearbox. Accordingly, it becomes possible to inspect the electrical parts of the engine.

Mounting screws connect the two body parts

The motor consists of a movable rotor and a rigidly fixed stator. The rotor rotates under the action of an electromotive force arising on the windings, which consist of turns of a copper conductor. Inspection of the windings is to determine the integrity of the insulation, the absence of a short circuit between the turns. This is done with a multimeter by sequentially measuring the resistance on the lamellas. In the event of a turn-to-turn short circuit, the armature must be replaced or repaired. The stator windings can be rewound independently at home using a special template.

Stator, collector and brushes

The armature, as a rule, changes entirely, along with bearings and an air intake plate.

The armature of the electric motor (rotor) is replaced entirely

How to disassemble and check the gearbox: how to remove the plastic case, take out the "drunk bearing" and other elements

In order to determine the malfunction of the gearbox, it must be completely disassembled. For this, the plastic housing is removed, the gearbox is thoroughly cleaned of old grease. Disconnect from the gearbox housing:

• floating bearing;
• drive gear shaft;
• raster sleeve;
• sleeve with a piston.

Rotary hammer reducer in section

The floating bearing, also referred to as "drunken bearing", is attached to the aluminum gear housing with a bracket that must be squeezed out with a flat screwdriver. The released bearing is removed and replaced if necessary. In addition, you should pay attention to the fact that inside the "drunken bearing" there is a needle bearing on which the drive gear rotates. When the hammer drill operates in the impact mode, it experiences heavy loads, and therefore often fails. A new bearing is purchased separately or assembled with an overhead shaft.

A drunk bearing transmits a shock impulse to the tool

The grid sleeve contains an impact bolt that is secured internally with a metal retaining ring. On the sides of the sleeve there are two technological holes through which the locking mechanism is accessed. After releasing the ring fixing, the impact bolt freely falls out of the bushing. Inside it is directly a striker made of high-alloy steel.

When repairing or replacing the impact bolt, it is also necessary to replace the sealing rubber bushings, which ensure the tightness of the mechanism. All parts of the striker are subject to abundant lubrication with special grease.

There is another needle bearing in the plastic casing of the gearbox at the outlet of the hub bushing, which must be well lubricated.

Video: how to fix a hammer drill and replace the impact bolt

Possible malfunctions, reasons for their occurrence and remedies

To repair a hammer drill with your own hands, you must first determine the external manifestations of malfunctions.

The puncher does not hit

If the rock drill stops hitting when switching to impact mode, but the drill rotates, it is most likely that the floating bearing is damaged. The solution to the problem is to replace it with a new one.

The second possible reason- disruption of the percussion mechanism. Often, during overloads, the steel firing pin splits in operation, this leads first to a weakening of the impact, and then to its complete absence. The striker must be replaced.

The third probable reason is wear or breakage of the piston group of the perforator. The liner and piston should be replaced.

The hammer drill does not spin or drill

If the chuck does not rotate when the start button is pressed, the cause can be identified by the sound beforehand. If the electric motor hums, but does not turn the chuck, most likely something is preventing the rotor from rotating inside the gearbox. What happened to the engine will have to be figured out by disassembling the mechanical part of the tool.

If the engine does not hum when turned on, it is more likely that the engine has broken down. Having opened the lid of the device, it is necessary to determine what exactly led to this phenomenon. This can be an open circuit in the power supply, a breakdown of the start button, or a short circuit in the windings of the coils. With the help of a tester, the specific cause is determined and the appropriate repair is made.

The drill does not hold in the cartridge and flies out

Punch snap incontinence can occur during long-term operation... A drill or chisel inserted into the chuck does not hold and flies out during operation. Not only is it impossible to continue chiselling with such a tool, it is also very dangerous - a flying chisel can cause injury.

The reason for the incontinence of the tooling lies in the wear or breakage of the chuck. The cartridge must be disassembled and the problem identified. Perhaps the balls were deformed, a depletion appeared on the restraining ring, or the fixing spring sagged. Usually, after replacing the damaged part, the chuck will start functioning normally again.

Video: why drills fly out of a hammer drill

Brushes sparkle

Sparking of brushes is a fairly common phenomenon when working with a tool in dusty conditions. As a rule, sparking is a consequence of the depletion of the material of the brushes themselves. Replacing the latter with new ones will help to correct the situation, sparks will no longer fly out.

If not, the cause must be sought in the stator or rotor windings. It is possible that a large number of dust entering the engine abrades the protective varnish covering copper conductors... And this entails a short circuit. The presence of turn-to-turn closure is checked by electrical devices (multimeter).

Resistance measurement between lamellas is carried out with a multimeter

Preventive maintenance of the tool: changing brushes, lubricating the bearings of the rotor shaft and additional varnishing of the windings on the coils will reduce the likelihood of breakdowns.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that dust can adhere to the lubricant of the bearing located next to the manifold. To prevent this, the collector is degreased with a swab dipped in alcohol or solvent.

The hammer drill gets very hot

If the rock drill becomes excessively hot during operation, this is a clear sign of a malfunction of the electric motor. First of all, to prevent overheating, it is necessary to observe the operating mode of the device:

• pause at regular intervals;
• after exertion, allow the tool to idle.

If the temperature of the case does not decrease, then you need to revise the electric motor. Having felt the characteristic smell from under the casing of the tool, you must immediately stop working and disconnect the device from the network. It can only be disassembled after it has cooled completely.

The hammer drill does not hold a chuck

Sometimes there is a situation when a cartridge flies off on a working perforator along with the equipment. This is due to the wear of the holder of the chuck body at the end of the trunnion sleeve, which is a retaining ring. If it breaks, the fixation is broken and during the push, the rubber boot flies off, followed by the spring and balls.

Normal operation of the chuck can be restored by installing a new retaining ring. This is done quickly and does not require any additional devices other than a regular screwdriver.

Replacing the main components of the punch

Replacement of key elements is best done before the part becomes unusable. This protects the instrument from more severe damage, which is more expensive and time-consuming to fix. Most often, you have to replace:

• bearings;
• start buttons;
• brushes;
• cartridge.

How to change bearings

If, during a routine inspection, grease drips are noticeable on the bearing, it cracks or crunches when turned by hand, this means that it is time to replace it. The bearing is dismantled using a special puller consisting of a screw part and a device for gripping the bearing sleeve housing. Tightening the threads creates a force that pulls the bearing off the shaft.

The puller is driven by the rotation of the threaded rod

Installing a new bearing on workplace produced with rubber or wooden hammer stuffing. When installing, it is important to avoid misalignment of the bearing axis relative to the shaft axis. The part is lubricated after installation.

How the start button changes

To replace the start button, you must remove the cover that covers the electrical equipment of the rock drill. Then you should disconnect the contacts of the conductors connected to it and pull the button body out of seat... Install a new button in this place, connect the contacts and assemble everything in the reverse order.

The button turns on the motor and adjusts its speed

How to remove and replace brushes

Replacing the carbon brushes of the collector is carried out with an electrical screwdriver. If you unscrew the lid, you will get access to the brushes. Each part is removed one by one from the sockets of the brush holder. In some models, the device of the pressure mechanism is different, as a rule, it is a spiral spring, which must be removed during replacement.

The procedure for replacing the cartridge is clear from the above procedure for disassembling the hammer drill.

Features in the repair of a barrel rock drill

All the described procedures for assembling and disassembling the mechanisms of perforators are also valid for the barrel variety. However, there are several nuances that must be taken into account when repairing it. The vertical arrangement of the engine at right angles to the percussion mechanism slightly changes the order of disassembly. So, to gain access to the gearbox and piston, it is necessary to remove the plastic cover located at the top of the tool casing. This makes it easier to repair the mechanical part of the device if the shock function suddenly disappears.

Access to the electrical part of such a drill is carried out after removing the lower casing. And the replacement of brushes is simplified, since there are holes on the sides of the glass through which they can be easily removed.

It should be noted that many professional barrel punchers do not have a drilling mode. Since their purpose is to a greater extent consists of drilling and chiselling heavy concrete surfaces, they are equipped with SDS-max chuck with 18mm shank. There is no fundamental difference in the device of the SDS-plus cartridge, but the dimensions differ noticeably. L-shaped rock drills are recognized as more reliable in operation and belong to the rank of a professional tool.

Video: how to repair a vertical rotary hammer

Daily care and storage of the rotary hammer

In order for the tool to serve for a long time and properly, you need to follow simple rules.

1. Before starting work, conduct a cursory inspection of the technical condition of the tool. In no case should you ignore the symptoms of a malfunction, if any.
2. At the end of the work, clean the rotary hammer from dust and debris. It is advisable to blow it out with a jet of air from a vacuum cleaner.
3. When transporting in a cold season, before starting work, give the device at least 20 minutes to "acclimatize" the device. The grease should thaw and become elastic.
4. Operate in compliance with the operating standards described in technical passport tool.

The punch should be stored in a dry and warm place. For long-term storage, it is recommended to pack in a plastic bag and cardboard box... Do not allow moisture to enter electrical parts, including condensation from the air.

Case - the best place for storing the punch

Aware means armed. Knowing the intricacies of the structure of the hammer drill mechanism, you can repair the tool yourself and in the shortest possible time. However, if you look under the puncher casing in a timely manner, clean and lubricate the mechanisms, then it is quite possible that you will not have to resort to repairs at all. Regular Maintenance the appliance will help extend its service life.

It is difficult to imagine a modern set of repair and construction equipment without such an important tool as a hammer drill. The principle of its operation is based on the functions of the usual which are expanded with reciprocating percussion capabilities. A special mechanism is responsible for them, which converts the rotational movements of the shaft into shock ones. If a hammer drill is required to be repaired, then this particular unit most often fails, because it is subjected to increased loads.

Features of the design of the punch

The impact function in the electric hammer drill is provided by a special pneumo-mechanical unit. However, there are also models of perforators in which mechanical or electrical system... It should be noted that these tools are inferior in accuracy and performance to electric rock drills with a pneumatic impact shaping system.

The design of rock drills has its own peculiarities, one of which is the use of extra strong drills instead of conventional drills. Due to its special shape, the drill is able to withstand higher longitudinal loads than the drill of a hammer drill. The drill does not have a sharp cutting edge at the working end - it is replaced by a carbide tip. Meanwhile, the design of the drill provides for spiral longitudinal grooves, similar to the grooves of conventional drills. However, they are intended to carry out crushed waste material while drilling a hole. For the perforator, in addition to back-and-forth, it also performs rotational movements around its own longitudinal axis, which also contribute to the straightness and centering of the drill in the material.

The chuck and the shank of the drill are designed in such a way that it is not rigidly fixed, but has some freedom of longitudinal movement. This is done in order to prevent the loss of kinetic energy of impact for the acceleration of the chuck, to increase the work efficiency and to reduce the vibration level of the hammer drill.

Heavy pollination is one of the main reasons for tool breakage, and the chuck, in addition to the heavy load, also takes on the bulk of the dust. To prevent the repair of a hammer drill cartridge from becoming a chronic problem, it must be periodically cleaned of dust and dirt. Flushing with petrol or cleaning is recommended. After cleaning, all parts of the cartridge should be re-lubricated.

Rotary hammer reducer

The gearbox transfers torque from the engine to the hammer hammer mechanism. It is a set of cylindrical, bevel and worm gears. The rotation speed of the chuck and the number of blows are changed using electronic regulators... There are also models equipped with a two-speed gearbox.

The gearbox must be lubricated periodically and it is recommended to use greases for this. They are refueled when assembling, maintaining or repairing the rock drill gearbox.

The main causes of breakdowns

As already mentioned, one of the main reasons for the breakdown of most parts of the hammer drill is heavy dusting. For example, a collector motor is cooled by a fan, which, together with air, delivers dust particles to the engine. As a result of the friction of these particles on the armature and stator, these mechanisms wear out quickly.

If the tool does not turn on, one of the reasons may be damage to the winding, then the repair of the puncher is inevitable - you will have to start rewinding the stator and the armature.

Same frequent breakdowns connected with the mechanical assemblies of perforators. Most of the models are equipped with mechanisms for switching operating modes (rotation, fight, rotation with a fight). If at least one of these functions stops working, the switch is most likely to blame. Disassembly of the tool will be required to eliminate the breakage.

is it worth the risk?

Most users are convinced of the inexpediency of repairing cheap models of rock drills. This skepticism is due to the imperfection of the design of inexpensive, usually Chinese models. But if some insignificant part breaks, this does not mean at all that you should immediately run to the store for a new tool. Nowadays, you can easily purchase all kinds of spare parts for any models of rotary hammers.
Another reason for the reluctance to repair a hammer drill with your own hands is the fear of not understanding a complex mechanism. Certainly, such fears are justified. After all, if the user does not perfectly know the perforator device, he will not be able to make repairs on his own. In this case, of course, it makes sense to contact a specialized workshop. Be that as it may, do not rush to give up on your tool, since any repair will be cheaper than a new hammer drill.

Disassembly procedure

If you nevertheless decide to repair the hammer drill on your own, then the tool should be disassembled in the following order:

• Remove the shift lever carefully.
• Detach the rubber cap.
• Disassemble the chuck: remove the brushes, unscrew the screws and detach the housing.
• Inspect, clean the parts, replace defective elements (brushes, bearings, gears, anchor, etc.), lubricate all rubbing units (it is not recommended to use SHRUS type lubricants).

The assembly of the tool is carried out in the reverse order.

Symptoms of malfunctions

But how to understand that a hammer drill is required to be repaired? Of course, the most simple sign is the impossibility of turning on the tool. However, you should not ignore any other, even minor, changes in the operation of the device. This, for example, may be changes in sounds at idle or during operation, sparks from the engine, smoke, burning smell, jerking of working organs, sudden periodic stops, etc. symptoms. All this indicates problems that must be immediately eliminated in order to avoid global breakdowns and costly repairs.