Gardeners often approach the choice of seedlings very responsibly, striving to plan the planting with maximum accuracy in order to get the maximum benefit from the plants. They take into account not only climatic conditions in their region, but also lighting and soil characteristics. However, sometimes the owners of suburban areas are interested in how to water the tree so that it dries quickly. This method, of course, can hardly be considered humane, but sometimes there is simply no other way out.

For example, if an old tree with a trunk diameter of more than 30 cm is located on the site, but it cannot be cut, since there are other structures or plants nearby. The only way out in this situation is to dry the tree using special chemicals.

There are many ways to ensure that the tree on the site dries quickly. However, the most common of them are those that involve the use of chemicals. preparations intended for the destruction of plants. And no matter how harmful these funds can be, they, nevertheless, allow you to do this work as quickly as possible.

More specifically, there are such chemical methods destruction of trees:

• watering plant tissues with chemical compounds;
• covering the leaves with special preparations;
• vaccinations that kill trees;
• placing the drug in the ground next to the trunk;
• complete destruction (including the stump);
• applying a chemical to the bark.

Important information! Note that most of the chemicals described below affect the root system of trees. When choosing a specific composition, be sure to take into account the composition of the soil. There are such agents that affect the bark or living tissue of plants.

Ideally, the tree should be cut down altogether, and the remaining stump should be properly processed. This way you can get rid of the tree as quickly as possible. Be that as it may, to begin with, let's get acquainted with the most effective means and the features of their use.

Popular chemicals for killing trees

If you intend to use chemicals, you must choose the most suitable option... Below is a list of the most effective (according to summer residents) chemicals.

1. Sodium nitrate... As a rule, it is used to destroy stumps, but in our case it should be introduced not only into the tree trunk, but also into the ground. In order to obtain the required effect as quickly as possible, it is advisable to inject sodium nitrate into the hollow. In about a year, the tree will completely dry out - then it can be burned. And if you water the earth with this saltpeter, then the tree will dry up only after a few years.

   

2. ... Strongly similar to the previous tool, but still somewhat different from it. For example, ammonium nitrate is made from urea, which is extremely dangerous for plants and can greatly accelerate the decomposition of wood. This contributes to the fact that root system quickly transforms into good fertilizer... It is advisable to uproot the trunk, which is already clearly drying up or dry, and once again treat the opened root system with this chemical.

   

   

3. Picloram... Very effective remedy which is used for spraying or watering the soil in order to destroy plants. When exposed to picloram, the root system is inhibited, and the tree, as a result, dies.

   

   Mikado RK. Clopyralid and picloram - systemic substances

4. Roundup, Tornado... These herbicides are used more often than others when it is necessary to quickly destroy a tree. Effective for the elimination of both deciduous and coniferous plantations.

   

5. Arsenal, Arbonal... These preparations differ in that they penetrate directly into the wood, therefore they are recommended to be used for forest thinning. At the same time, these funds are actively used in agricultural plantings.

   

Note! A tree is still a living organism, which must be killed only in extreme cases. Do not get carried away with this procedure too much.

Now, having familiarized yourself with the main chemical means able to quickly dry a tree, consider which processing methods are most popular. Some of these methods involve the use of one or another of the drugs described above.

The main ways to destroy trees with chemicals

Let's make a reservation right away that there are many such methods, so we will consider only the most effective of them.

Method number 1. Applying chemicals to living tissue

The bark of the tree is an obstacle due to which herbicides cannot penetrate into the vascular tissues of the plant. Therefore, in order for the agent to reach its destination, make downward cuts on the surface of the trunk, but do not tear off the bark. Use a small ax for this. As a result, the notches and cuts should be around the entire circumference of the trunk.

The herbicide of your choice, use the cut after making the cuts - apply it to the fabric of the tree.

Note! Do not use herbicides in the spring, as the juice that will ooze from the incisions will prevent the chemical from absorbing.

Method number 2. Watering the soil with herbicides

Individual preparations can be used to apply uniformly to the surface of the primer. After rain or artificial irrigation, the herbicide will enter the root system. To concentrate a chemical in one place, you can resort to installing barriers in the ground (for example, concrete).

Note! This method it is advisable to use in cases when it is required to destroy several or many trees at the same time.

Method number 3. "Murderous" injections

They are very close in their principle of action to method No. 1, and differ only in that special devices are used to introduce chemicals into fabrics. Maximum efficiency The methods are achieved if one acts pointwise along the circumference of the trunk with a step of 5-10 cm. Injections are made at a height of approximately 1 m from the ground. The method is used for trees with a trunk diameter of more than 5 cm.

Step 1. First, prepare a drill, as well as a drill for it, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm.

Step 2. Make holes 4-5 cm deep as described above. It is important that the drill is at an angle of 45-50 ° relative to the ground during operation.

Step 3. Take a simple pharmacy syringe, fill it with a product containing glyphosate as the active ingredient (for example, Ground, Tornado, etc.), or, alternatively, pour the chemical directly into the holes. The concentration of glyphosate in the product must be at least 200 g / l.

Herbicide "Ground"

For example: to dry a tree with a trunk diameter of 35 cm, you will need 35-40 ml of a product in which the concentration of glyphosate is 360 g / l.

Step 4. Cover the holes with earth in order to hide the traces of injections, remove the shavings and see if the drug leaks out (the latter is good because it dries for a long time and is perfectly visible on the bark). Soon enough, the plant will begin to dry out.

Note! You can use other herbicides, but it is still better to give preference to preparations with glyphosate, since they are immediately inactivated by the soil microflora after the root system dies.

Heavier herbicides based on sulfometuron-methyl or imazapyr, on the contrary, after the death of trees, penetrate into the ground and often kill nearby plants. Although you can take care of the barriers described earlier.

Method number 4. Leaf treatment with drugs

This method is very popular for the destruction of shrubs, the height of which does not exceed 4 m. It can be used from the beginning of spring to the end of summer (more exact time depends on the specific herbicide). The effectiveness of the preparations is noticeably reduced if the weather is dry and hot, and the tree suffers from a moisture deficit.

If the preparations are applied to the leaves of crops with a large annual growth, this can lead to the appearance of excessive growth (with the exception of some extremely susceptible species). If you use this method, it is not necessary to impregnate the barrel with chemicals.

Method number 5. Simultaneous destruction of the trunk and stump

Here, first, the tree itself is removed with an ax or chainsaw, and then chemical is produced. stump removal (more on this at the end of the article). If using this method, apply the herbicide only to a fresh tree stump. If the trunk diameter is large, treat only the outer edge of the stump (no more than 5-10 cm), including the cambium - the inner tissues of such trees are mostly already dead.

If the stem diameter is less than 10 cm, apply the chemical to the entire cut surface. Apply the drug immediately after cutting the tree for maximum effectiveness.

Method number 6. Tree bark processing

Measure 30-35 cm from the surface of the ground, make a mark on the trunk and work the area below this mark chemical... It is advisable to hold the event in spring or summer. Stir the product with oil before applying, then process the bark until it is completely saturated. Tellingly, this method is applicable to all trees, regardless of what species they belong to and what sizes they have.

Greenhouse cleaning work begins with cleaning debris and washing the structure. And the first stages are carried out even before the onset of frost. Read more about this in.

Below are the useful tips that will help you with the destruction of the unwanted tree.

Note! It is believed that on the east side, the root system grows to the height of the crown, while on the west - by ½ of this height. You can use this rule of thumb.

Alternative methods

There are also several alternative ways allowing the tree to dry out quickly. Consider the most effective, and therefore the most popular of them. For the convenience of visitors, the information below is given in the form of a table.

Table. What else can you process the tree to make it dry.

The suburban area with growing acacias looks beautiful. Luxurious trees delight the eye, and during flowering, the air is filled with delicate notes of freshness. They do not require much attention and care and go well with others. ornamental plants... It would seem that it will always be so. But the acacia grows too easily by self-sowing, and after a few years the owners of the site are tormented by the question: "How to get rid of the acacia?"

Acacia is a vicious weed

This southern beauty is able not only to decorate gardens and parks with her presence, but can also cause significant harm to the plants growing nearby. It's all about her physical characteristics:

1. The root system of the acacia is very well developed. It can be located around the plant at a distance of more than one meter and go tens of meters deep. Thus, it tends to suppress the roots of other plants.
2. Acacia is one of the most unpretentious plants... With its ability to grow in almost any climate and on any soil, the fertility of the soil on an individual site does not matter. Its roots will themselves extract all the necessary minerals from the soil.
3. One of the most fast growing plants... Already in the third year after planting, acacia begins to scatter seeds around itself with a high percentage of germination.

Knowing this, we can conclude that if you do not take action in time and start fighting acacia, it will soon fill the entire territory of the personal plot.

How to remove acacia

There are many ways with which you can exterminate this plant. But, not all of them are effective and can take a long time. Experienced gardeners it is advised to be patient before starting the fight against this invader.

First of all, you need to destroy adult plant... After all, it is it that is the source of seeds and, possibly, occupies a large area. garden plot... There is only one way to get rid of it: chop down a tree and uproot the stump. However, uprooting is not such an easy way. The stump itself can reach half a meter in diameter, and it is completely impossible to pull out all the roots from the ground. Then chemistry can come to the rescue.

This method can be used at any stage of the destruction of acacia. To do this, spray a tree or fresh stump with a solution of butyl ether or amine salt. Up to 10 liters of solution may be needed per hectare, depending on the "weediness" of the area.

You can also destroy acacia with arboricides. For this, deep incisions are made on the surface of the bark and filled with a herbicide solution. Best results when destroying acacia, showed "Pikloram".

How to get rid of root growth

Young growth of acacia is also capable of causing a lot of trouble. If the plans do not include the total destruction of all shrubs, it is better to get rid of it in the old fashioned way. That is, to dig it out annually. In this way, you can form hedge from young plants, removing only where they are not needed.

Otherwise, you can apply herbicides such as Roundup, Tornado, Glyphos. Their manufacturers guarantee complete disposal of woody vegetation, provided that the application rules are followed.

Herbicide treatment is best done in spring, after leafing out, in sunny, calm weather. The result does not appear immediately, the death of young shoots occurs gradually, within 1-2 months. One of the easiest and cheapest ways is to water the young stock with gasoline or diesel fuel.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral part of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year begins here on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese are marked by their blossoming. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or whatever. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don't want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can do it ahead of time to keep everything hot), add the gravy and lunch is ready! A real lifesaver.

Agriculture refers to such types of human activity, the successful outcome of which is not always directly proportional to the efforts made. Unfortunately, nature does not necessarily act as our ally in growing plants, but often even, on the contrary, throws up new challenges. Increased reproduction of pests, abnormal heat, late return frosts, hurricane wind, drought ... And one of the springs presented us with another surprise - a flood.

With the advent of the season of summer cottages, the question arises of growing strong and healthy seedlings of our favorite vegetables: cabbage, tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant and many other crops. Along with this, the question arises - how to grow worthy seedlings and in the future to get from it healthy plants and a decent harvest? For example, I have been growing seedlings for a single season and protect my garden from diseases with the help biological products Alirin-B, Gamair, Glyokladin, Trichocin.

I will allow myself to confess my love today. In love for ... lavender. One of the best unpretentious, evergreen and flowering shrubs that can be successfully grown in your garden. And if someone thinks that lavender is Mediterranean, or at least southern, then you are wrong. Lavender grows well in more northern regions, even in the Moscow region. But in order to grow it, you need to know some rules and features. They will be discussed in this article.

Having once tasted such a priceless product as pumpkin, it is already difficult to stop looking for new recipes for serving it to the table. Korean style pumpkin, despite its pungency and spice, has a fresh and delicate taste. After cooking, you will need to cover the salad and let it brew for at least 15 minutes. My butternut squash is very juicy and sweet, so there is no need to crush it. If the pumpkin is of a different variety, then you can knead it with your hands so that it slightly sips the juice.

Salad, as the earliest and unpretentious green culture, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Spring planting most summer residents usually start by sowing lettuce, parsley and radish. Recently, the pursuit of a healthy diet and big choice greens in supermarkets make gardeners wonder which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article, we will tell you about nine of the most interesting, in our opinion, types of salad.

Another “bonus” is always “attached” to the flowering of indoor roses - capriciousness. When they say that it is easy to grow roses in rooms, they are disingenuous. For flowering indoor roses it is necessary to create literally ideal conditions. And vigilant care, attention and response to any plant signals is the main guarantee of success. True, no matter how capricious roses are, growing them in a pot format can be quite successful. And attentive flower growers should not be afraid of this.

Pollock is best cooked in a casserole, separating the fillets from the skin and bones. Pieces of fish are mixed with a variegated vegetable set, poured over with a sauce of cheese, sour cream and eggs. This fish casserole has a presentable look, and its taste is a whimsical mixture of subtle nuances. Vegetables and fillets are soaked in sour cream, the cheese will harden with a golden brown crust, eggs will tie all the ingredients together. Pieces of fish are abundantly sprinkled with Italian herbs, and pollock acquires an unusual piquancy.

Despite the fact that the calendar spring begins in March, you can truly feel the awakening of nature only with the appearance flowering plants in the garden. Nothing testifies to the arrival of spring as eloquently as the clearing of flowering primroses. Their appearance is always a small holiday, because winter has receded, and a new gardening season awaits us. But, in addition to spring primroses, there is still something to see and admire in the garden in the month of April.

Growing rapidly and turning into wild thickets, hogweed disrupts the existing ecosystem and suppresses all other plants. Essential oils contained in the fruits and leaves of hogweed, cause severe forms of dermatitis. At the same time, it is much more difficult to deal with it than with other common weeds. Fortunately, today a remedy has appeared on the free market that can rid your site of most weeds, including hogweed, in a short time.

Carrots come in various colors: orange, white, yellow, purple. Beta-carotene and lycopene predominate in orange carrots, yellow due to the presence of xanthophylls (lutein); white carrots are high in fiber, while purple carrots contain anthocyanin, beta and alpha carotenes. But, as a rule, gardeners choose carrot varieties for sowing not by the color of the fruit, but by the timing of their ripening. About the best early, middle and late varieties we will explain in this article.

Recommended enough easy recipe pie with an appetizing chicken and potato filling. Chicken and potato open pie is great hearty dish, which is perfect for a hearty snack, it is very convenient to take a couple of these baked goods on the road. The cake is baked in the oven for one hour at 180 degrees. After that we put it on wooden surface, having previously released it from the form. It is enough to slightly cool the baked goods and you can start tasting.

The long-awaited spring for many indoor plants is the period of the start of active vegetation, and for the majority - and the return of their decorative effect. Admiring young leaves and emerging shoots, one should not forget that spring is also a great stress for all indoor plants. Sensitive and versatile, all indoor crops face much brighter lighting, changes in air humidity and temperature conditions.

You can easily prepare homemade Easter cake with cottage cheese and candied fruits, even without any pastry experience behind you. You can bake Easter cake not only in a special form or in paper mold... For the first culinary experiences (and not only), I advise you to take a small cast iron pan... The cake in a frying pan will not turn out as high as in a narrow form, but it never burns and always bakes well inside! Yeast curd dough turns out to be airy and aromatic.

Good afternoon, colleagues!

Now I want to invite you to discuss one very important issue -

how to deal with roots ? I mean roots

such trees as plums and thorns, and many others. They tend to creep underground for tens of meters, letting out more and more new growth. And, even if you cut down and uproot the tree itself, this does not affect them in any way. They live their own lives, and perhaps this growth becomes even more active and powerful. And nothing can take her later.

I ran into this problem when I was preparing a site on which the "ensemble" was supposed to be located, consisting of a gazebo, a summer shower, and between them weaving plants and, possibly, a slide (maybe something else, I don’t know yet, this work is still not fully completed). Earlier, two trees grew on this place: plum and cherry. I honestly cut them down and uprooted them.

By the way, on the topic uprooting there are some tips too. If you plan to uproot the tree with its roots, never cut the trunk very low. If the stump is low, it will be very difficult to uproot - it will be difficult to loosen it. But if you cut down a tree at the height of your growth, or even higher, then a wonderful "lever" is formed, with which you can easily loosen and then pull it out of the hole. And if the tree is small, then you can not cut it at all, but immediately uproot it. But, as a rule, the trees are uprooted, already old, sick, or unnecessary in this place, so this rarely applies to young trees. It is better to transplant them.

In general, how to uproot trees is, in principle, clear to those who have ever done it. And for those who do not, I will explain a little. Dig the tree in a circle, chopping off all the roots. Small ones - with a shovel, and those that do not lend themselves to a shovel - with an ax. Have different trees and the roots are different, and they are located in different ways. For example, the uprooting of the above-mentioned plums and cherries were completely different uprooting (although the age of the trees was approximately the same - about 15 years). Cherry roots were much weaker, and less common, and grew in about two tiers. I dealt with them pretty quickly, and then, tilting the tree to the ground, grabbing the end of the long "hemp-lever", I exposed the central root, and cut it with a light movement of the shovel. What can not be said about the roots of the plum. There were at least 3 - 4 of these tiers. The roots are thick, powerful, grow very densely. In general, while all this was chopped, seven pots disappeared. And I barely reached the central vertical root, digging a hole three times more than when uprooting cherries. Therefore, when you start uprooting a tree, all this must be taken into account. If from the very beginning you were lazy and started digging a tree too close to the trunk (closer than 30 cm), and the roots are powerful, and in this place are thick and densely located, then you will suffer with them. It is better to immediately retreat away from the trunk - by 40 - 60 cm. Digging, of course, is more, but it is much easier to cut, since the roots are thinner and less frequent. And then it's easier to tilt the tree, and get to the center root. In general, the diameter of the hole should be at least twice its depth. So keep that in mind.

But, wandering is, of course, an interesting question, but it is not the main topic of this article.

And, in fact, as I now think that uprooting trees such as plums is, in principle, serious mistake... You can't uproot them at all ...

So I uprooted, and covered the hole with earth. And I thought I won. No matter how it is! In the spring next year, young shoots have climbed. And - everywhere. On the whole area - up to 5 - 7 meters from the uprooted tree. You start to dig it, and then again there are two or three floors of roots to a depth of more than 0.5 m, and in the same number of floors there are long rhizomes that stretch, probably for tens of meters, and from which all this grows. In short, I am this site on which I was going to do Summer shower, paths, etc., with an area of ​​about 25 square meters (5x5), cleared of the roots for a month and a half to two. In fact, it was necessary to shovel the earth to a depth of 50-60 cm throughout this site. But I'm still not sure that not a single root is left there, and there will be no problems with them. Or rather, I am sure that there will be more, since I dug up the roots only in this area, and they have gone beyond its limits. And where is the guarantee that they will not start growing again on this already worked area?

So what do you do?

But I don’t know! And, therefore, if you paid attention, at the beginning of the article I suggested this topic exactly to discuss ... I have no ready-made recipes that I have tested. But there are two options, which were suggested by two people: one is a colleague at work, the other is a neighbor in the country. I haven’t tested them yet, so I’ll just state as I was told. If I ever check, I will report on the results.

So let's get started. In fact, these methods are very similar, and differ only in details.

No need to uproot the tree ... It is necessary to carefully cut it down, leaving a stump with a height of 30 - 50 cm. We make a depression in the hemp. Further - the differences in options:

1st option. We put saltpeter there (for example, potash), put it on top and fasten a plastic bag to the trunk so that the saltpeter does not go anywhere, and leave it for the winter, until spring (and we cut the tree in the fall). Perhaps, when to cut is not essential, and perhaps, which is essential, I have not tested it. But, in any case, you must leave it like this for several months ... The author of this version claims that during this time, saltpeter will spread to all roots, and reach the smallest roots. And then, take off the bag and set fire to the cut ... As you know, when nitrate burns, it releases oxygen, that is, along with it, other combustible substances can burn without air access (which is why it has long been used as one of the components of gunpowder). And in our case, thanks to her, they should burn out all the roots , although there is no air access to them underground. In theory, it seems plausible.

2nd option. We fill in the deepening "mining" (i.e. old lube). And just wait a while. The oil also has to spread to the roots, and just destroy their. You can try and set it on fire. But whether it will burn underground is not clear. This method, for me personally, raises doubts, although it is simpler.

Therefore, it is necessary to check.

And I look forward to your feedback and suggestions! If you have something interesting and useful to say on this topic, you know something, and even more so, have tried it, then share it with your fellow gardeners, do not be greedy!

Thank you, and see you soon!