Some people have a strange but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It is called the assembly of models of ships from wood. What does it take to make such beautiful thing... It is not so easy to create a model from a tree. In this article, you will learn how to create from wood with your own hands. And also we will make small excursion into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name of the "Iron Pirate"; his homeland was England. He became captain of a sailing ship at just 16 years old. At first he was a ship's priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really thundered when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made many voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Doe

At the time of the dawn of fate, several sailing ships arrived at his property. Its main flagship was the Pelican. This ship was a five-deck three-masters. On board there were 20 artillery weapons. All sorts of maritime stories rarely tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it was with the Pelican that such a story happened by the will of fate. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian this name sounds like "Golden Hind"). It was under this second that it was inscribed in sparkling golden letters in the world history of seafarers. Francis Drake performed quite a few dizzying deeds on it, which were later told in history and adventure books.

It is these wonderful ships that make many people collect models of ships from wood with their own hands. Drawings of many of these structures can often be found on the Internet. So inspired ancient history sailing, we learn from this article information on how to do something like that.

DIY wooden ship model: from the beginning to the rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. Moreover, each of these stages is associated with several signs. A lover of miniature shipbuilding may need to be able to change available materials... It is also important to expand the selection of modeling objects. After he has developed enough, then he can have a mass production of models. The next step will be the development of stand exhibition modeling from those sets that he already has. Subsequently, it is possible to develop up to the formation of separate segments. It can be anything - from ship models and in the flesh to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all kinds of other cars.

DIY wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's get down to creating such a ship. Carving prefabricated ship models out of wood is not an easy task. You will need a lot of tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a block (and, if necessary, a saw), thin fabric, superglue, a long wooden spire, a rope, a drill. Besides that, you will need two more very important parameters. Firstly, it is time, and secondly, an important quality of those people who are engaged in creating prefabricated models of ships from wood is patience.

Carving a ship out of wood

First you have to work with a chisel. You have to file everything plus remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It won't take you so much time - just two minutes. In those two minutes, the pretreated block will later become a boat. Now you need to clean up the block. You should carefully scrape off the bark. Hold the block itself directly towards the instrument. Let's take standard design as an example for our small models of ships, which we will build according to the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on the block. Following this, process the block with a sharp knife. The tilt of the blade itself should be at an angle of about 10 degrees. When you plan, keep in mind that this is not the most easy job and so be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, it will be quite difficult to fix everything. Remove the shavings layer by layer, while doing your best to process the original block as smoothly as possible. It is important that the top and bottom must be parallel.

Please note that you do not need to throw out the shavings. The fact is that, in principle, it can be used as additional material as mulch.

Carving of the front part and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, and also the back. We will cut them out in exactly the same way as above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order for you to get the bow of the boat, you will have to saw off a piece from the front. Following this, you must round off the saw cut with a knife. When you are making the nose, try to tilt the knife blade itself back. It should point towards the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have multiple spiers. Therefore, drill a number of holes, they should be slightly larger in size than the beams themselves. It is important that there are not too many holes. Otherwise, you may get a crack. And because of a crack, as you know, a severe disaster can occur - to go to a leak. Do not use glue! If you do this, then further work will pass with much more difficulty.

Setting sails on the model

Decide, first, how many panels you want to get on your final ship. Let's take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. Following this, take a few wooden spiers and cut them off. Cut the fabric in a trapezoid shape. Then start gluing them together. Make nicks on the branches of the sails, fasten each branch with the corresponding notch. Then glue the middle of the edges to the sails. Repeat for all masts. It is best if you build the rear mast first, then the middle mast, and then the bow mast.

Now we are going to set up the upper flying sail. Cut the shape out of the fabric in the form kite... Take a thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the panel. Leave ends on either side for all corners. Glue a small piece of thread onto the top of the boat. It should be slightly higher than the bow of the boat itself. Measure from the opposite corner down to the middle of the lower sail on the front mast. Then cut the very thread that you measured and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

You should leave some thread on each side. Pull them back and glue them directly inside the boat. Then you can cut off the excess rope. Create and attach the back panel in the same way. It should be attached to the back of the rear sail. Measure, trim, and make sure it fits over the two tabs. Then glue them in the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make the simplest ship models out of wood. And although this article describes everything only in general terms, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a "shipbuilder". If, of course, you are interested in this. Trust me, it's worthwhile!

Sailing ships are subdivided into frigates and linear. The most powerful three-masted ships are linear ones, which are characterized by displacement, armament and size of the crew.

This class of sailing ships dates back to the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (guns), able to conduct linear combat (simultaneously from all onboard guns from the side line).
In an abbreviated form, they are called "battleships".

You can download model drawings for free on the website or from other sources.

In May 1715, the Russian cannon battleship of the 3rd rank "Ingermanland" (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard in St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of his drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52m; width - 14m; depth of the hold - 6m. Peter's gold standard hoisted from his mast. This ship was for a long time the flagship of the Russian fleet.

Ship ranks in sailing fleet:

• The first rank - three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
• The second rank is a three-deck (a ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
• The third rank is two-deck (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
• The fourth rank is two-deck (from twenty to sixty guns).

L "Artemise

L "Artemiz was a cannon frigate of the French fleet. Class of the frigate Magicienne, weight 600 tons, on board 32 cannons, of which 26 - twelve pood long guns and 6 - six-pood long guns. The frigate was laid down in Toulon in December 1791. It had a length of 44 meters 20 centimeters ...

Frigates were called military one-deck or two-deck three-masted ships. They differed from battleships in their smaller size. Their purpose is cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a surprise attack on an object with the aim of further capture or destruction. The largest models were called line frigates. According to statistics, more frigates are downloaded for free than battleships.

Create model old ship you can do it yourself without buying finished structure for assembly. To get a high-quality result, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

Materials (edit)

To make a historic ship with your own hands, prepare:

• plywood or cork;
• thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
• joiner's glue;
• paper;
• pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood, but cork was used as the basis. The choice was due to the simplicity of working with the material. Unlike plywood, which requires a saw for pruning, cork was done with a simple, sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just have to bend well. Do not replace wood glue with hot or super glue.

Step 1... On paper, you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can also print them if you find suitable layouts on the Internet. Keep in mind that your ideas may undergo slight changes as you work. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in old style rather than replicating an exact replica of a particular vessel.

Step 2... For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also going. Most of the time was spent on the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, rear and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3... First of all, using the sketches already available, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all of its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that the ribs are exactly at a 90 degree angle when attaching.

Step 4... After the skeleton is ready, start styling the sides. To do this, glue a long strip along the center line of the side part. Focus on it further when you glue the rest. It is better to glue the reiki in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure it does not drip down the slats. Attach the slats additionally with clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue is completely dry. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue to glue the strips in the next section.

Step 5... All places where gaps between the rails are formed, work out epoxy resin... Cover all parts of the ship with wood varnish as soon as it is ready.

Step 6... After the main work, proceed to finishing. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue the slats that hide them over the places with obvious defects. From rattan, you can make a horizontal line that emphasizes the flowing shapes of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.

Step 7... The masts should be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. The ship will have two masts. Adjust the rods to the calculated dimensions in advance. To secure the masts, cut two 4 x 2 cm pieces of wood. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. Make a reinforcing lattice from small rods and assemble the entire structure completely.

Step 8... Make a template for the ship's deck out of paper and use it to construct the deck section from wooden strips. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill the holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. Use plywood to make the side rails of the ship.

Step 9... Glue the wood strips to the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued to the side and in the deck part, and from pieces of plywood to make rods and handrails. All parts are fastened with wood glue. Do not forget to step up the rear of the ship.

For lovers of modeling, sheets of pressed and glued wood veneer have always been one of the most demanded materials. They are easy to cut, perfectly processed, drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the net, and therefore it is from plywood patterns that many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with the modeling of various ships.

Making models with your own hands is a very difficult task, requiring a significant baggage of knowledge and a certain skill. In the article, we will tell only about the most basic techniques, and you will hone your further skill yourself.

Materials for work

If you want to make a small ship model, then you will need the following materials:

• Wood - cedar, linden, walnut or other wood, preferably soft and not fibrous... Wood blanks must be even, free of knots and damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck) and for fine detailing.
• Plywood is perhaps the most demanded material... For ship modeling, either balsa or birch is used, since it is these types of wood that provide the minimum amount of chips when sawing. Model ship plywood is typically 0.8 to 2 mm thick.

Note! Beech veneer sheets of small thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch veneers: although they are inferior in strength, they bend much more easily.

• Veneer - thin plates natural wood expensive breeds... As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. pasting the surface of inexpensive material.
• Fasteners - fine chains, laces, threads, brass and copper studs.

In addition, we will definitely need wood glue, cardboard and tracing paper for transferring templates, etc. Fine detailing is made from metal casting. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparation for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling will by no means be an exception.

• First you need to decide what we will build. If you have not previously dealt with the art of ship modeling, then we recommend downloading the drawings of the ship from plywood on the network: as a rule, they contain all the necessary information and are understandable even for a beginner.

Note! Kits are available for sale that allow you to assemble a boat from ready-made parts. Beginners will be interested in such kits (although the price of most of them is very significant), but it is still better to master the technology from scratch.

• After analyzing the drawing, we check if everything you need is in stock. In principle, if something is missing, it will be possible to buy it a little later, because building a ship (albeit a miniature one) is not a quick business!

• Having printed the drawing, we make templates of the main parts.
• Transfer templates to.

Cutting and assembling parts

You can cut the workpieces either manually or using an electric model jigsaw.

The latter is more expensive, but with it you will suffer less when cutting small parts:

• We make a starting hole in the plywood sheet, into which we insert a file or jigsaw blade.
• We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
• We process the sawn-off workpiece with a file, removing small chamfers at the edges and removing inevitable chips and burrs.

Advice! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. This way we will spend significantly less time, and the work will progress faster.

When everything is ready, we start assembling our ship.

• First, on the longitudinal beam - keel - we put on the transverse frames. A groove is usually provided at the bottom of each frame for attaching to a plywood keel.
• For connection, you can use standard glue, or you can use special adhesive mixtures designed for ship modeling.
• We attach the upper parts of the frames to the deck. Have simple models the deck is a single sheet of plywood, while in complex ones it can be multi-level.
• After the glue on the frames has dried, we begin to sheathe the sides with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, because only in this case we will be able to bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
• Can be heated and humidified for bending. After that, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time it will acquire a stable shape.

Note! The body for painting can be pasted over with a solid sheet. But to imitate plank sheathing, it is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).

• We fix the glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave to dry.

Final finishing

By and large, this is where the carpentry skill ends, and the art begins.

When the body is assembled and dried, we need:

• To be made of thin plywood and to secure the deck superstructures.

• Build up the sides so that they protrude above the deck plane.
• Paste the surface of the deck with a wooden veneer or draw it out with an awl, imitating the boarding.
• Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and steering blade.
• Anchor the masts with everyone additional devices(the so-called spar), set the sails and stretch this whole structure with the help of the threads of the rigging.

Finally, all plywood parts need to be stained and varnished. This will provide our souvenir with at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Output

Almost everyone can make a simple boat out of plywood with their own hands - enough patience and minimal skills in working with a jigsaw (read also the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you will have to work hard. This is why we advise you to start with the simplest models, gradually building up your skill!

In the video presented in this article, you will find Additional information on this topic.

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Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

making

CHINESE JONK

CHINESE JONK
So we got to the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate dimensions,
since I did the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the dimensions. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torture you maritime terms because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a public language. Well, you know the basic terms, such as deck, mast, yard, keel. Here we will begin our work with the keel.But first, we will do some preparatory work... We take a sheet of veneer, lay it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix it with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. We proceed to the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, the excess can always be cut off. After the keel has been cut out, we will sand it a little. Remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, remove it completely.
Spread with glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread on two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything is drying, we mark the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to veneering the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I'm telling you. Veneer mode on strips slightly larger than the keel width. We turn on the iron at full power, but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and iron it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed onto a block.
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ribs of the ship. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the curvature of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we start to mess with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved with inside the height of the ribs in relation to the inner part of the keel to the deck will naturally also change. I will try to explain how best to do this. Myself
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We put the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. From the front, mark 8 cm also from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should look something like this,
the back side is 8 cm, the front side is 5 cm. On the front part of the keel we make a step for supporting the deck (photo 5). Next, we try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn it over to the top with the keel. Find the lowest point between the keel and deck and place the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you place the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be positioned at the start of the curved front of the deck.
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from deck to keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first blank template. We lay on the rectangle of the future edge, combining the upper part and the right top corner... We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic configuration of the rib
will remain. We also make the back part and one rib between them. After that we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is from the back. After the ribs are ready and adjusted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck.
When all this is done, we make inserts between the edges along the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We proceed to the most laborious work: fanning the bottom of the ship in strips. I have them
width equal to 6 mm. We take the prepared veneer sheet and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
ship one to one to the bow and to the rear of the ship overlap. Pre-smear with fresh glue at the bonding site. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and start making additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow part is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The back part also starts from the rounding, leveled 16.6 cm, protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm.
We glue the front part of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we will veneer the main deck until the start of the rounding and installation of the rear part of the additional deck. Next, glue the back part. It does not need to be veneered as it is covered by deck superstructures. The decks were glued, rounded, and we proceed to making the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Start from the rounding point. The rear part of the side has a deployed
an angle of 105 degrees. After the strips have been cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried and begin to veneer. Cut off two veneer strips in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards were made, but since they should be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying on to the deck. Then we glue them. It will not be difficult for you to make the rear part of the side. Next, go to
deck superstructure rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be solid. A small explanation for the photo. Side
platforms should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After the deck is done, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and then we fan it. Next, we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The rear of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck is made, glued and veneered, we do
trailing boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, go to the bow of the model. We also make the front sides with
a deployed angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to making an insert with windows and an upper platform. The dimensions of the upper platform. The length is 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) the width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes by 6 cm. The rear part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we have made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we will fan the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, fan them from the inside, mark
cannon ports and cut through them. The size of the port is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm higher than the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneering the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, go to the railing. Strip mode with a width of 4 mm. We plywood them on three sides, glue them stepping back from the edge of 1 mm, sawing them down. Next, we mark them and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but we only fan the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly taller than the others. This is so that it would be more convenient to mark up.
We drilled a hole, tried it on on the pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. After all the railings have been installed. Cut off the excess, clean up and
fanning. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneer the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. Moving on to marking and installing masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we are starting to stain it. We fix those parts that you see fit. We finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for the ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). All that remains is to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For the sails, we need material, a sheet of whatman paper for the pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you can handle the fabrication and installation of the sails.