The choice of good wood is the key to a good pipe. Type of wood used for tube manufacturing, greatly affects its shape and strength, as well as the taste of tobacco smoke. Pipe makers identify several types of wood for making modern pipes.

Briard

Briar is a shrub of the genus Ericaarborea, distributed throughout the Mediterranean. Briard has a dense wood and therefore has the property of fire resistance. This material, due to its properties, is good choice for making smoking pipes. Wood has absorbent properties, which allows absorbing moisture from the tobacco leaf, while the taste of the smoke is not distorted. A briar pipe will be durable due to its hard wood and will not lose its shape over time. The color of the briar is light brown, but it can be given a number of shades with the help of varnishes and wax.

Morta

Morta is one of unique species tube material. This is an oak, whose properties are formed when the tree falls into peat or clay. Due to the inability to rot and decompose ( lack of oxygen), the wood becomes petrified and turns black. Morta is found everywhere and, depending on the original wood, can be of varying quality. Morta good quality is an excellent material for the manufacture of tubes, this material is readily available and easy to process. You can leave the morta blank rough, or sand it down for a more finished look. Since the tree is semi-petrified, it heat resistant and durable.

Cherry tree

Cherry wood is commonly used by carvers in pipes because of its deep red and burgundy. Due to its rigidity, cherry wood is excellent for pipe making, and manufacturers often take this into account when designing the shape of a pipe. When making a cherrywood pipe, the bark can be left intact to give a woody appearance. By removing the bark and polishing the wood, the red veins in the wood can be emphasized.

Now many smokers are beginning to think about their health, many are quitting this habit, while others are switching from cigarettes to regular tobacco, which has much less impurities. However, it requires a tube. The trading network offers them wide choose, but really high-quality copies are very expensive. And now we will discuss how to make a smoking pipe yourself.

Material for making a smoking pipe

Masters make smoking pipes from briar. It is a growth at the root of a tree called heather. It is ideal for creating such a specific product. After all, heather grows in the stony soil of the Mediterranean climate, and briar absorbs moisture and minerals, which subsequently give all the necessary qualities to the tree, which is so appreciated by the craftsmen who make smoking pipes from it.

Local tree species to create a smoking pipe

However, this tree does not grow in our area, and if you buy it, it will cost a lot. You can do it yourself, the materials for which are easy to find in local gardens. For the manufacture of the pipe, fruit trees are suitable, which have dense wood: apple, pear, plum. But it is best to choose cherry, its fibers are the densest of the listed breeds, so it will not burn out for a long time. All the rest are also good, but they char a little faster. It is advisable to use the root part for harvesting, but branch or stem material is suitable. Fruit trees when smoked they have an excellent aftertaste. Some people like the taste of cherries, others like apples, it all depends on their own preferences. For this reason, it is also better to make a smoking pipe with your own hands.

Material preparation

Having decided on the type of wood, you also need to learn how to properly dry a suitable workpiece. You cannot cut a live branch or part of a root and immediately make a tube out of it. Sections are painted over or smeared on the material so that moisture cannot quickly evaporate through them. It should gradually come out through the bark, which in no case should be removed immediately. And so the tree must lie before next year- then the fibers will gradually dry out, and there will be no cracks in their structure. And only after this time it will be possible to remove the bark and grind the shape of a smoking pipe.

You can also make a smoking pipe from a dried log. To do this, cut the workpiece from its center. Of course, if it was in a dry place. The extreme places with cracks are cut off, after which there is solid wood that does not have flaws. After that, remove the bark and cut out right size blanks, but with a margin of five centimeters. Then the tree is set aside for a week, because it must completely dry out, after which microcracks may well appear. If you immediately start carving the shape of a smoking pipe, then the revealed flaws will ruin everything. And in a week, even if small cracks open, they will be on the left stock, and after cutting it there will be an ideal surface for carving.

Manufacturing process

To begin with, a simple angular blank is cut out, resembling a square or rhombus. Its surface must be sanded in order to clearly see the structure of the tree and determine if there are any defects on it. If everything is fine, we mark out the future shape in more detail in order to know where the smoking chamber will be, and where the chubuk is the part where the mouthpiece is attached. It is necessary to outline all the details and holes with a pencil. It is also worth drawing directions to make it easier to maintain angles when drilling.

Making smoking pipes with their own hands, the craftsmen first of all drill a hole for the chamber into which tobacco will be poured. At first, it is worth doing this with a thin drill, and then picking up everything thicker until the hole is the desired diameter. But you should not immediately bring it to the final size, you need to leave an allowance of a few millimeters, then to grind it with sandpaper. After all, the drill leaves uneven surface and it should be smooth.

After that, a smoke channel hole is drilled on the side in the place where the chubuk is planned. This must be done carefully, because making smoking pipes with your own hands is a very precise and time-consuming process. The smoke outlet must be strictly at the bottom of the tobacco chamber. This is very important point, because if you make it a little higher, then the tobacco inside will not burn out completely, which can lead to souring, and this will worsen the taste of the pipe and smoke. This channel can be from 3 to 4 mm. The wider it is, the drier the tube will be. by the way, it is better to equip it with a filter to prevent ash from getting into the middle. In addition, a wide smoke channel makes it easy to clean the pipe with a brush. After the holes are ready and accurately connected, you can start creating the outer shape.

Of course, it is better to make smoking pipes with your own hands on a machine, it will be much easier and faster. But in the absence of such a technique, you can still make a good copy by hand.

Next (when working on the machine) you need to make circles that you can, all other parts are cut out by hand with a well-honed cutter. It is important to make the edge of the motif narrower than the entire width of the shank. This is necessary so that you can put on the mouthpiece, and the two parts were on the same plane. After that, the surface is polished inside and out with sandpaper. First, all the bumps left by the knife are removed with a large one, and then scratches are removed from a flat surface with a small one. However, you can leave the outer parts unfinished - here everything is already done to the taste of the master.

Choice of mouthpiece material

We continue to talk about how to make a smoking pipe, and now we will create a mouthpiece. It can be made of ebonite or acrylic. The first material is softer, but polishing remains on it for a very short time. It is better to choose it for those who hold a pipe in their teeth while smoking. Acrylic is harder and more durable, and therefore it is suitable for holding the product in your hands in the process.

Manufacturing process

You need to take a stick of ebonite or acrylic with a length of 10 to 15 cm. So that when smoking the smoke has time to cool, do-it-yourself smoking pipes are made no shorter than 10 cm. With this in mind, we choose the size of the mouthpiece. A hole is made in it along the entire length with a drill, the diameter of which is 3 mm. Start with the part where there will be a connection with the chubuk. After that, the hole is expanded by half the length to a diameter smoke channel. Then this step, which is formed, needs to be smoothed out. To do this, cut a triangular tip on a wire with a diameter of 4 mm. It must be driven to the stop and carefully turned several times.

After that, the channel is ground with a thin wire with sandpaper glued to it. The place where the mouthpiece will be is expanded horizontally to form an oval of 5-6 mm. So the smoke will be easier to be absorbed by the smoker. On the other hand, the hole in the mouthpiece is expanded so that it fits snugly on the shank, but without special efforts.

Outer Mouthpiece Molding

Mouthpieces are processed, like smoking pipes, with their own hands. You can grind on the machine or use improvised tools. The form is also arbitrary. After that, you need to grind the surface first with fine sandpaper, and then with felt with GOI paste. If you make an ebonite mouthpiece, you can bend it, give it a different shape. To do this, it is heated over gas stove or a candle and then make a bend.

Do-it-yourself wooden smoking pipes can be waxed or etched - this way their surface will look elite, but it will be much more distinct and, of course, this is an excellent protection for the wood surface.

Tube etching

An excellent mordant can be two-chromium potassium pounded in water, and after the reaction with the evolution of gases stops, this indicates that the mixture is ready for wood etching. The more concentrated it is, the richer color and the contrast of the grain pattern of the wood. The tube is immersed in the composition until it becomes the desired tone. You can store this mordant as long as you like in a glass sealed container.

Waxing

There is a great and easy way. Needs wax. 100 g of it must be finely chopped, then add mastic (12 g), instead of it you can crushed rosin (25 g). The selected mixture is put on fire so that everything becomes liquid. Then they remove it from it and immediately pour 50 g of turpentine - warm. After that, the mixture must be thoroughly stirred and drained into the required container. In it, the composition is stored until it is necessary to use it. Take the mixture, apply it to a woolen or cotton cloth and carefully rub it into the wood.

Smoking pipe cleaning

This should be done when the tube has completely cooled down. It is necessary to carefully disconnect the mouthpiece by unscrewing it clockwise. If you pull it out with remarkable force, you can damage both parts of the tube. The mouthpiece is cleaned with special brushes, starting them from the side of the mouthpiece. It is better to have several of them, for a more convenient process.

It is necessary to clean the chubuk after each smoking process. The brush is started from the side where the mouthpiece was. After everything is cleaned, the brush is left inside the stem until it is time to fill the pipe with tobacco. The cleaning of the product is completed by wiping all its external surfaces. After that, the tube is purged to eliminate any soot or debris that may have remained inside.

For general cleaning of the tube, wax, alcohol, and various other liquids are used, it is carried out as it gets dirty. And only the owner himself knows when simple maintenance is not enough.

Now the pipe is rather an element of decor, it is rarely smoked, because it needs to be looked after. They are now like good wine, which is only savored from time to time. There are also many accessories for this kind of refinement (smoking pipe stands, for example), which can be different forms and sizes.

What is the difference between the most expensive and collectible pipes from the usual

First of all, it is an ideal material - briar. In the most expensive collectibles, the fibers of this wonderful tree are visible, woven randomly, but the master presents them as if they were grown specifically for this smoking pipe. They, like rays that envelop the smoking chamber, turn into a chubuk. Such a piece of art as a collectible smoking pipe, reviews are always enthusiastic not only from knowledgeable people but also from the general public. After all, a masterpiece always has a special aura and, of course, appearance. And looking at it, you cannot catch yourself thinking that you can change its shape or appearance. This is where the talent of the master lies.

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Purchased smoking pipes cannot always satisfy all requirements, so it is better to make a unique smoking pipe with your own hands and feel like a real master. This will require the most simple materials, a little patience and imagination - and then you can get an excellent pipe of a unique and inimitable design.

Making a smoking pipe with your own hands

Making a smoking pipe with your own hands using improvised materials is not so difficult, but its cost will be higher than the purchased one. Making will require some tools and materials, knowledge of the tube structure and patience, but even so, the quality of the first copies will be low.

The structure of the tube and the name of all its parts can be easily found on the Internet, as well as the diagram of its structure. If before starting work it turned out that there is no necessary tools, then the manufacture of the mouthpiece and briar will have to be left. You need to take a ready-made block and a standard acrylic mouthpiece, this will greatly facilitate the task. You can order these items in specialized online stores or on classifieds sites. In order for the elements to fit each other by connectors, they must be purchased from the same seller: then there will be no need to undermine the parts, adjusting them to the desired size.

In order to make a pipe for smoking, you will need a minimum set of tools:

• File;
• Sanding paper of varying degrees of graininess;
• A set of drills of various diameters and lengths;
• Vise;
• Joiner's machine.

A beginner's guide - how to smoke a pipe correctly?

Work with a workpiece

To work with the workpiece, a carpenter's vice is used: they increase the accuracy and quality of work. Clutching the bar in a vise, draw a contour of the future tube with a pencil. The excess is cut off with a hacksaw, but then it will have to be processed with a file. turning desired shape, also use a sanding cloth. This stage is over. Further use drilling machine to make a hole in the tobacco chamber quickly and accurately. To make a hole in the channel, you need several drills with a diameter of 3-4 mm. In addition, it should be of an elongated shape - it will not be easy to find such a drill, you will have to look. Either changes long drill by sharpening it to a curved shape. Mortise requires a drill with a diameter of 7-10 mm.

Drills are specially wrapped in soft material. In order not to make the hole larger than necessary, the depth of the holes is measured: the drill, lying at an angle, should not move to the side. The edge of the briar is carefully cut so that the contour is perpendicular to the smoke channel. It is necessary to make axis markings on the sides of the workpiece in order to maintain accuracy. Start drilling at low speeds so as not to damage the workpiece with a heated drill.

Compliance with the calculated depth of the holes is necessary so that when working with a tobacco chamber, you do not make a mistake. The workpiece is removed from the vise, after which the correctness of the recesses is checked. Then a mortise is drilled: it is important to observe the marked axes. If the drill in the channel moves to the side when drilling, you can correct the axis by changing the shape of the tube. When the hole is ready, the edge of the mortise is ground with a file. Having finished with this stage, drill a hole for the tobacco chamber. To do this, use an already prepared curved drill. The workpiece is removed from the vise so that you can verify that the axes are set correctly. After that, they start working again. Drill carefully, observing the desired depth, so that the channel neatly merges with the bottom of the chamber. Drill the remaining depth by hand for greater accuracy.

Mouthpiece

For manufacturing, you will need an ebonite beam of the required length. More often they use imported material, since its quality is higher than domestic. Having drilled a place for a Teflon pin, they take out the workpiece and check the correctness of the hole made. The required hole depth is clearly observed. Then the mouthpiece is connected to the first workpiece by gluing. To do this, epoxy glue is dripped onto the bottom of the trunnion and, without changing its position on the machine, the trunnion is inserted into the briar. Excess glue is removed before drying.

Now you need to connect the mouthpiece to the briar by drilling a smoke channel in the first one. You need to drill sequentially, gradually increasing the depth. Drills must be of small diameter to reach the end of the channel. Having reached the end of the workpiece, the drill will come out from the back. Now the workpiece is removed from the machine. Check the holes made and clean the workpiece from dust.

Mouthpiece bell

After connecting both parts of the tube, it remains to make a mouthpiece bell. This is the part of the tube that is directly held in the mouth, so it must be of the correct diameter and neither too narrow nor too wide. To do this, use a special needle. Carefully insert the needle into the channel and swing the workpiece until a gap of the desired diameter is formed. From this moment on, the blank ceases to be a raw product and takes on the form of a real smoking pipe. To make it look really beautiful, you need to do grinding and polishing.

After completing the main stage, the workpiece is carefully cleaned of glue residue and dust. After carefully examining the edges of the workpiece and the shape of the tube, they mark those places that need to be corrected before the start of the final work.

Shutdown

Sanding requires sanding paper. It is best to use a grinding disc. It will provide a quick and smooth sanded surface, while manual sanding will take much longer. If you use a disc, it is inserted into the drilling machine and carefully lubricated with a special polishing paste. This will give the workpiece the desired smoothness and avoid damage during grinding.

Having finished with grinding the outside, you need to grind the internal holes of the tube. To process the smoke channel, thin wooden sticks tightly wrapped in fine sanding paper. Do not use grinding paste in the mouthpiece, as it may remain on the walls of the channel.

Now the pipe is almost finished, and it remains to be painted so that it acquires a finished look. Stains are used to give color to a smoking pipe. They come in several types: water-based, chemical and alcohol. It is best to use alcohol or water stains. Chemical is a mixture of chemical components that will adversely affect both the product and health. After each stage of polishing, a stain is used: in this case, it will be absorbed and make the wood pattern more expressive. To give the mouthpiece and briar different colours, use different stains.

When the painting of the tube is over, it must be allowed to dry. Then they paint over the places that need to be given a specific color or shade. When the tube is completely dry, it is ready for use. After pouring tobacco and lighting up, you can feel the pleasant taste of a unique home-made pipe made at home.

Making truly high-quality pipes - painstaking process involving multiple steps. Today's story is dedicated to the manufacture of pipes by master Alexander Bondarev.

Like many masters, Alexander is self-taught: he looked at other people's work, noticed something, tried to do something himself, improved something and it took root in his work. I won't go into technical details, I will not dwell on any individual processes. Alexander himself has all this in his blog, he talks in detail about the processes and pitfalls and does it with skill and with pictures.

Well, I'll go through the common places, sketch, so to speak, a sketch.

Pipes are made from many materials, ranging from clay and stone to corn on the cob and gourd. Though, traditional material still considered a tree. Here, too, there are many options: cherry, pear, beech, but the best pipes are made from briar. Briar pipes are also called heather pipes.

A briar is a growth in the rhizome of a heather that grows in the difficult conditions of the stony soil of the Mediterranean. This outgrowth serves the tree to accumulate water, and together with water it absorbs minerals, becoming very durable and refractory. It is these properties that make briar ideal material for tubes.

Briar is harvested specifically for pipe makers. It is cleaned, washed, dried. Proper drying sets correct properties wood and its taste. If dried incorrectly, then cracks will appear, and if not dried, then good taste the tube will not. But the latter is fixable, briar can ripen in the form of a finished product.

The workpiece is fixed in the machine twice. For the first time, the chibouk is turned (this is what meets the mouthpiece), and the second - the bowl itself with the tobacco chamber. Moreover, if a ring is used on the pipe to decorate the junction with the mouthpiece, and it is most often used in good pipes, then it is installed directly on the machine, followed by reaming the mortise, the mouthpiece landing site. If the ring is placed separately, microscopic cracks will be obtained at the junction, and this is unacceptable.

Rings are most often made from different varieties wood, horn, bone or precious metals. For example, products made from natural horn and ivory cannot be exported to the USA, they protect nature there. So you have to replace these parts with acrylic.

Alexander has a reason to be proud: a one and a half kilogram “piece” of mammoth tusk. Its owner lived a long time ago on the territory of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, then died, and then Soviet scientists found the horn. And then Alexander found the scientists :)

We continue the rough processing of the tube blank. The excess is mercilessly cut off. No health and safety :)

Rough grinding on the wheel. At the upper end of the chibouk, you can see the same decorative ring, though not from the same mammoth, but from boxwood.

And here is an unpleasant surprise. A small cavity in the solid wood spoils the whole picture. Most likely, the cavern will not be able to grind off, and this tube will no longer become smooth, but will be rusted. More difficult with cracks. When they are detected, the workpiece most often goes to the ejection. But this is a valuable material of wood, mammoth or bone, and several hours of work.

Also blanks with caverns inside the tobacco chamber remain without a future. In principle, if the cavity is small, then after several months of smoking you will not find it, but you cannot sell such a pipe, the reputation of the master will suffer.

Very milestone- drilling of the smoke channel. First, a channel is drilled to the meeting point with the tobacco chamber, and then the chamber is selected. Moreover, the channel should exit exactly at the bottom of the chamber. If the bottom of the chamber is lower than the outlet of the channel, the pipe will not smoke to the end, which will lead to tar stagnation and an unpleasant taste and smell.

It has been about five hours since the start of work, and we have only done the workpiece. If they cut spoons, they would call it a baklusha. Next begins creative process shaping. Done by hand, the time spent is highly dependent on the shape of the tube. On average, one tube takes three to four full working days.

We will not abuse the hospitality of the host, so we will return to the already finished pipe.

Oh yes, I almost forgot. Or mouthpieces. They are also made from various materials, but now ebonite or acrylic is considered traditional. Alexander uses warm lamp ebonite. A hole is drilled in the cylinder for the channel and a pin, which will go into the wooden part of the tube. There, too, accuracy is required up to 0.2 millimeters per thermal gap.

After grinding, the tube is treated with ordinary stains, polished again, if necessary, treated with stains again and polished again.

Tubes are not friendly with varnishes, only polishing.

By alternating sanding with painting, you can achieve a spectacular pattern of wood fibers, grains.

The final touch is the seal of the master.

Each pipe is marked with the name of the master, the date of birth of the pipe and its quality. Each pipe maker has his own scale and he evaluates the pipes at his own discretion.

Each tube comes with a leather sheath. It is sewn right there with the same hands.

And here are the tubes. I prefer smooth rounded shapes, while others will like rusticated ones. There are generally similar to stumps :)

“No, don’t take it off, these are my working tubes and in general, it’s a mess and you don’t have to do it like that” :) The master can afford such a creative mess. There are no pipes made for oneself, rather, these are pipes with a small marriage, revealed at the final stages. Such a marriage does not affect any properties, except for aesthetic indicators, but this cannot be given to the customer either.