The stove brings coziness and comfort, so rarely what private house does without it. The services of professional stove-makers are quite expensive and not everyone can afford. We will tell you how to properly build a brick stove.

Furnace types - classification depending on the parameters

Stove masonry is not an easy task, but anyone with the knowledge and patience can handle it. When choosing a furnace, take into account the parameters by which they are classified. The first step is to pay attention to its purpose. Heating stoves are designed only for heating, they can accumulate heat and give it away for a long time. For this, the outer walls are laid out in half a brick, or even a whole one. They slowly warm up and slowly cool down, they do not heat up much, massive, high consumption of bricks. They also arrange fast heating heating stoves, which are less massive, give off heat well, but cool down quickly.

The most common type in Russia is heating and cooking stoves. They not only heat the room, but also prepare food. In addition to a cast iron stove, they almost always have an oven. In addition, they can be built into: a boiler for water heating, a container for heating water, niches for drying, beds. A Russian oven of this type has a chamber for baking bread and pies. They differ from ordinary kitchen stoves in high efficiency, high heat capacity, keep heat for a long time, and the draft is stable.

For greater heat transfer, a heating shield is connected to ordinary kitchen stoves. This is the cheapest construction in relation to material costs and labor: it will take up to 200 bricks, it will heat small room... A very good option for small summer cottages. Stove except heating plate, can be equipped with an oven, hot water boiler, water heating tank.

Firebox - heat transfer and fuel affect the device

The simplest device heating furnace, which has two parts: a firebox and smoke chutes. Other types of ovens contain additional devices. The main part of any stove is a firebox. Certain requirements are imposed on it, in particular, it must be of sufficient size: for one tab it can hold almost all the fuel. Air must be supplied in the required volume, a high temperature must be constantly maintained.

With insufficient dimensions of the firebox, low heat transfer is observed. The width depends on the required heat transfer: up to 1 thousand. kcal - 12 cm, up to 3 thousand - 27 cm, if more - up to 50 cm. For convenience, the dimensions of the firebox are taken as multiples of a brick. The length is made from 26 cm to 51 cm, the longest is for firewood. The fuel used affects the height: 6-15 rows (42-100 cm). The grate is placed a row or two below the door to prevent coals from falling out. Often the rear is tilted higher than the front for better combustion.

Fuel tanks: a - wood-burning; b - peat; c - coal.

Fireclay brick is used for the firebox, with which it is laid out or lined from the inside. The total thickness of the walls is not less than ⅟ 2 bricks. The firebox, made in the form of a vault, improves the quality of combustion. All types of fuel burns well in the wood-burning firebox. For coal, a reinforced grate with a thickness of 4 cm and a good blowing are required, for which the dimensions of the grate are equal to the length of the ash pan under the firebox.

Chimney - the advantages and disadvantages of different systems

The smoke circulation system increases the efficiency - gases, when moving from the firebox through the channels and chambers, give off heat to the walls. It is important to observe the ratio between the volume of the firebox and the inner surface of the smoke channels. With an excess of the area of ​​the gas channels, the temperature drops so much that condensate appears. Small internal area reduces efficiency - hot gases escape into the pipe.

In the best way, heat is absorbed when the ratio of the areas of the outer walls of the stove, which give off heat, and the inner part of the chimneys is 1: 3.

The section, number and location of the flue gas turns determine their internal area. It is better to fold the channels in multiples of the size of the brick, they should provide free passage of gases. The cross-section must correspond to the thermal performance of the furnace: it smokes when there is an insufficient cross-section and does not heat up well when it is excessive. A section of 170–250 cm 2 is used for heat transfer from furnaces of 3 thousand kcal and less, from 3 to 5 thousand kcal - up to 300 cm 2.

Chimneys can have channels (one or more) and be channelless.

Various types of smoke circuits: a - multiturn vertical; b - multiturn horizontal; в - single-turn vertical; d - multichannel single-turn; d - channelless.

As part of a single-turn system, one lifting channel and the same or several parallel lowering channels. Parallel channels have low resistance to gases, the furnace mass is heated more evenly. The single-turn system has a drawback, which manifests itself in a significantly greater heating of the upper part than the lower one. V small ovens it is compensated by a significant heating of the fuel walls. For large furnaces, a scheme is used according to which hot gases flow through the channels from below, thus ensuring normal heating of the room.

A multi-turn system consists of vertical or horizontal channels in series. The first drawback of such a system is that the gases have to experience considerable resistance in numerous corners. The second drawback is the strikingly unequal heating of the walls of the first and last channels, which often causes cracking of the masonry. Vertical channels provide good heat transfer, horizontal channels - traction, which helps with the pipe of insufficient height.

Fire safety requires that the top of the stove ceiling be 40 cm from the ceiling made of combustible materials. The chimney section from the stove to the cutting in the ceiling is called a neck, its smallest height is three rows of bricks. Neck - a place for installing valves or views, which are closed at the end of combustion. If these appliances are installed lower, a lot of heat is lost. The gases are thrown out through the chimney, the construction of which will be described below.

Choosing a stove - economy, heat transfer, simplicity and design

Determining the design of the furnace, take into account its ability to meet certain requirements. Important role plays an economic role when low fuel consumption provides an acceptable room temperature. Few people want to heat the stove even twice a day, so preference is given to structures that evenly give off heat over 24 hours. These include ovens that warm up well at the bottom.

The maximum surface temperature must not exceed 95 °, otherwise a burning smell will be felt. Simplicity of design, compliance with fire safety requirements also play an important role. Finally, the design of the stove must match the overall aesthetic appearance of the room.

But most important requirement applicable to any oven - the ability to warm up all rooms. For this, heat loss is determined based on the volume, size of windows and doors, the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Calculations show that each m 3 of the room with brick walls at an average winter temperature of -25 °, it loses 60 kcal / h. One square meter of the oven is capable of delivering 500 kcal / h.

When calculating, we first determine the heat loss at home. Suppose you have an ordinary 7 × 9 brick dacha with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. There are 4 separate rooms in total, which are planned to be heated by one stove installed in the middle of the room. First, we determine the cubic capacity: 7 × 9 × 2.5 = 157.5. We multiply by the heat loss of one cube. meters: 157.5 × 60 = 9450. This means that a furnace with a heat transfer rate of 1000 kcal / h is needed, a certain reserve must always be made. A simpler calculation is based on the fact that one square meter of the floor area occupied by the stove heats 30–35 m 2 of the room.

Accommodation - how to determine the best location

The location of the stove is chosen by everyone at their discretion, but, nevertheless, it should be taken into account general recommendations... First of all, the stove in the house should give off maximum heat. If you plan to heat one room, the stove is installed at a short distance from the wall, at least 15 cm, but it can also be placed close to the walls. Then the heat energy will be given off by two of the four sides. On schemes a, b you can see the location options with an air gap against the wall, which is also called a retreat.

If the stove structure will heat two adjacent rooms, then the most effective option is when it is built in a partition (the same figure, c). Heating is also possible in three adjacent rooms, as in the picture d. The stove is also located in the common room for all three rooms. In one room there is one side of the stove, on the others there are two. Figures e, f show options when the firebox is located on the veranda or in the utility room. This is a good option for small houses.

In a dwelling of four rooms, it is recommended to install the stove at the junction of two internal partitions so that one wall of the heating device exits into each of the rooms. This option provides an opportunity to heat from the kitchen, living room, veranda, without bringing garbage into the bedroom. Rough with a couch is great for a summer residence with several rooms. The lounger is taken out to any room that the owner prefers.

Foundation device - a reliable base for the furnace

After determining with the design and choosing a place, you can begin to bring the project to life. We start with the foundation, which is best done at the same time as the foundation of the building. In the case of building a stove in an already erected house, we disassemble the floor and do the filling. It makes no sense to put even the smallest and lightest stove on a wooden floor. In just a few years, even the thickest boards and logs begin to deteriorate, sag, and the oven will have to be rebuilt.

The size of the foundation makes the furnace larger by 30 cm in all directions.

It is imperative to make a foundation for a brick oven. It should not come into contact with the foundation of the walls, we provide a gap of at least 5 cm between them.Fill the space between the two foundations thermal insulation material... Separate foundations will provide independent upsetting of the building walls and oven. If you connect both foundations, this often leads to distortion.

So that less heat from the stove goes into the ground, we put heat insulation on top of the concrete. It can be as follows: first, a slab of mineral fiber or basalt insulation, then a choice of foil, tin. Insulation is again on top, sheet metal on top. We soak the felt in clay milk and crown it with a layer of insulation. When it dries up, start laying. Such reliable thermal insulation protects against heat loss even in the most severe conditions.

Clay mortar for masonry - cooking secrets

Brick ovens are laid out on a clay-sand mortar. Clay has unique properties, turning into stone after exposure to fire, adheres perfectly to brick. To achieve maximum qualities from it, the solution should be prepared from pre-prepared ingredients with an optimal ratio.

First, we remove impurities from the clay. Grind and place in an oblong container, concentrating only at one end. Raise the part of the container where the clay is a little, pour a little water from the bottom. Gradually take the clay with a spatula and mix with water until a homogeneous paste-like substance is formed. We transfer it to another dish until the required volume of solution is collected.

We soak the purchased dry clay in a wide and deep bowl. We fall asleep 10–20 cm, cover completely with water. Stir after a day, add water if necessary and leave again for a day. When a paste-like mixture is obtained, the oven solution is considered ready. For strength, add a little salt to the solution: up to 250 g per bucket. The mass should slide off the trowel without traces. Water should not appear on the surface of the solution, if this happens, we add washed sand to the solution.

For 50 pieces of bricks laid flat, you will need a bucket of mortar with a joint thickness of 3-5 mm.

The solution must be of the required plasticity and fat content. To determine the quality of the solution, take the clay in five equal portions. Add different amounts of sand to four: 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and leave the fifth without adding sand. We knead the solution from each part, make pancakes from them and dry them. We determine the quality by touch and by outward appearance... If the pancake crumbles, there is excess sand in it, there is little of it in the cracked pancake. If the sample does not crack and is homogeneous, it has an optimal ratio of constituent parts. It is in this proportion that we prepare the solution.

In the laying of brick ovens with your own hands there are many secrets that only know experienced craftsmen, and unknown to beginners. First of all, this concerns the choice of bricks. Ceramic bricks of the grade not lower than M-250 are used, which are more expensive than the usual M-100, M-150, but more homogeneous, capable of withstanding constant heating and cooling. You can make decorative elements from it, ordinary brick is of little use for this.

The inner walls of the firebox are lined with refractory bricks that can withstand 1200 °. But behind it is a ceramic brick that can only withstand 650 °. When the firebox is very hot, the temperature is transferred to it, shortening its service life. To extend the life of the red brick in the firebox, it is insulated from refractory basalt with 5 mm cardboard.

It takes a lot of time to control the mortar on the facing row. To make the work go faster, masking tape is glued to the front of the brick, which is then removed. The facing row comes out nice and neat. Experienced stove-makers it is advised not to bother with preparing a clay-sand mortar, but to buy a ready-made sand mixture for ovens. It is packaged in 5, 10 and 25 kg.

It is more convenient to lay out any jumper, overcoat and other elements if you use a metal corner. It is laid out from the inside, pressing the brick on both sides. The length of the corner should not exceed 0.8 m, otherwise it may sag from heating. Avoid using front corners. In addition to being ugly, there is a high probability of getting burned if accidentally touched. Instead of corners on the front side, 16 mm threaded studs are used, which fix the front finish.

You can extend the life of the oven if you hide all the fittings in grooves with a depth equal to the thickness of the products.

Every stove-maker strives to lay out a row with a perfectly even seam, but not everyone succeeds. There is a simple technique: 8 mm metal rods are laid on each row, preferably rectangular ones. A mortar is laid between two rods, then bricks. When the last brick is laid, the rods are removed. Bricks must not be upset, otherwise the masonry will go in waves. The rods are lubricated with machine oil before use to make it easier to remove them from the masonry. Their length should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the masonry will be damaged when they are pulled out.

Chimney - how to ensure safety and good draft

On the stove in the house, a packing pipe is usually installed, which consists of a neck, a fluff at the ceiling, a riser in the attic, an otter at the roof and a head. The fluff protects the wooden parts of the ceiling and roof from heating and possible combustion during the fire. In these places, the pipe is made thickened, gradually letting in bricks. Metal can be used to support brick rows, but they should not overlap interior chimney.

At the place where the riser passes through the roof, an otter is made, which will not allow rain and snow to penetrate into the attic through the cracks. They are covered with roofing steel - a collar, the ends of which are run under the otter protrusions. The chimney is crowned with a head. Its height is determined by its location on the roof. In the middle of the ridge and at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from it, it should protrude 0.5 m above the ridge. At a distance of up to 3 m from the ridge, the top of the head is leveled with the ridge. At greater distances, ensure the height at an angle of no more than 10 ° in relation to the ridge.

The chimney is designed to provide good draft. It rises with an increase in the temperature of the outgoing gases, but it is not economically feasible to do this, so the pipe is driven to the required height, which should be 5–6 m from the grate to the top of the head. The plastered inner surface, the absence of cracks in the brickwork, also increases traction. To eliminate the influence of the wind, which can interfere with traction, a deflector is installed on the head.

Shvedka - the best option for a heating and cooking oven

The design has been proven for centuries, small and economical. With dimensions of 880 × 1010 mm and a height of 2170 mm, it is capable of heating more than 30 m 2. Typically, a firebox with a stove is located in the kitchen, and the back wall of the stove opens into the living area. It works great on wood, coal and briquettes. In summer, it is recommended to heat with small portions of coarse coal or pellets, firewood burns too quickly in hot weather. Coal consumption in the heating season is 1.5 tons.

We stock up for construction:

• brick M-150 - 570 pieces;
• 200 kg of dry mortar;
• 1.7 m of steel angle 40 × 40;
• 0.65 m steel strip 5 × 50;
• roofing iron for installation in front of the firebox;
• flat slate to cover the cooking chamber.

You will need standard appliances for the stove: grate, firebox door, blower, cast-iron stove with burners, valves - 2, cleaners - 3. The order of the Swedish stove with a hob is presented below.

Important structural element is an oven that plays the role of an automatic switch between summer and winter running. It works as an aerodynamic barrier for gases escaping from the firebox. The gases are retained in it, completely burning out under the hob. They come out hot into the smoke circulation channels, they warm up the stove well. For this reason, the wall farthest from the firebox is sometimes made double and a heat exchanger with a hot water tank is placed in it.

Excessive heating of the hob is not observed, hot air from the niche goes into the room. In the summer, the kitchen, with the correct firebox, heats up no more than from a gas stove. Small amounts of fuel in the summer heat up the hob well, as the gases are trapped in the oven. The hotplate on the left heats up more, on the right less, but enough for cooking.

Hollandka - a small-sized furnace device with high heat transfer

This is a unique, simple structure of colossal efficiency. Compared to the classic Russian stove, it has more modest dimensions and a smaller wall thickness, which contributes to rapid heating. It attracts even owners of stylish modern cottages with its elegance and efficiency. When laying a Dutch stove, any variations are possible, which will not negatively affect its efficiency.

This is a purely heating stove, but, if desired, it can be equipped with a hob. The smallest structure is 0.5 × 0.5 m, for the most massive one will need only 650 bricks, including 200 refractory bricks. The main material is brick of any quality, which does not affect its stability and functionality. But for the firebox it is imperative to use refractory brick... It warms up quickly, cools down slowly, fuel is consumed economically. The Dutch woman is capable of heating up to 70 m 2.

As can be seen from the diagram, the Dutch stove does not have a grate, the fuel is loaded into the furnace, and the combustion intensity is low. Efficiency is achieved due to a special smoke circulation device. Gases from the firebox rise through the first channel and return back through the second channel. There they heat up again and go into the third channel. In the fourth and fifth channels, the same principle is repeated, and only through the sixth channel gases go into the chimney.

Heating the house in winter time with help stove heating suitable for those who have Vacation home... This heating method is not very suitable for apartments. Unfortunately, it will be quite difficult to fold the stove with your own hands, but after carefully studying the layouts of brick stoves, it is possible. If you want to save your time, it is better to turn to a professional in this business - a stove-maker. He will tell you what kind of masonry is suitable in a particular case.

The main types and device of brick ovens

1. Gate valve;
2. Cast iron plate;
3. Clean door;
4. Oven;
5. Firebox door;
6. Blower door.

There are two main types of brick ovens:

1. Heating stoves. The scheme of the brickwork of the heating stove is very simple, which is why the installation does not take much time. They are intended only for heating the room.
2. The most widespread and demanded type of furnaces is heating and cooking. They allow you to both heat the house and cook food.

There are many schemes for brickwork stoves. The main structural elements of any furnace are:

• Toplivnik- where the fuel used to heat the house is loaded. The dimensions of the firebox depend on the type of fuel used. For its laying, only refractory bricks are used, since it is in direct contact with fire.
• Chimney- designed to remove smoke and gases that are formed during the combustion process. Its design should not have a large number bends, if possible, it is better to make it completely vertical. The fewer bends, the better the room heats up.
• Ash pan or blower chamber Is also one of the important parts of the furnace design. Ash accumulates in the ash pan - a product of burning wood and coal. Air enters the firebox through the blower, as a result of which the draft improves, and therefore the quality of heating the dwelling. The ash pan chamber is located under the firebox and has a separate door for easy ash cleaning.

The design of a heating and cooking stove is characterized by the presence of a hob or even an oven.

Sauna stove: features of masonry

Brick sauna stoves are usually drawn up for specific cases. The dimensions of such ovens directly depend on the dimensions of the room in which they will be installed.

A distinctive feature of the design of the sauna stove is the presence of a heater. This is a special compartment in the oven, with a lid through which water is supplied and stones are laid. The order of laying stoves with your own hands should be agreed with a professional, because for sauna stoves, safety, first of all

1 - brick oven on a separate foundation,
2 - firebox, 3 - boiler with water, 4 - backfill from boulders (heater), 5 - latch, 6 - door for giving, 7 - shelves, 8 - leaking wooden floor (plank, log) on ​​waterproof beams.

When choosing a project, it is necessary to take into account some features in the device of sauna stoves.:

1. Toplivnik in sauna stove definitely needed big size... The blower door and it itself must be large in order to ensure a good flow of air into the firebox.
2. The grates should be laid along the blower channel for better traction. But due to the problematic nature of purchasing long grates, most often you have to buy small grates and lay them across.
3. If flammable structures in the bathhouse are not protected by refractory materials, the distance from them to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
4. If the stove is located above the firebox, the height of the stove should be at least 55 cm. This is necessary for better heating of the stones.
5. Before laying a brick bath stove on a mortar, it is better to lay out the rows first dry. And only after leveling them, use a masonry mixture.
6. The horizontality and verticality of the masonry can be checked with a level. If there are minimal deviations in the masonry, they need to be corrected.
7. All doors must be properly secured. For this, during installation, steel wire is used, which is attached to specially made recesses in the bricks.
8. Where the flue pipe passes through the ceiling or wall, there must be a fireproof insulation.
9. When mixing the masonry mixture, only high-quality clay and fine sand are used.

Square oven with bottom heating

Square oven with bottom heating

Distinctive design feature square oven with bottom heating, is that the height of the fuel compartment is relatively high. On both sides of the firebox, two cavities are symmetrically located for exhausting gases into chambers located on the side, in the outer walls of the stove. From these chambers, gases enter the risers and then rise upward, where the upper dome is formed from the cavities, consisting of three U-shaped cavities. These cameras are located parallel to each other.

In the upper section of the rear and middle cavities, heated air is retained, and the cooled fuel combustion products are removed through special openings into the cavity, which is connected to the chimney. Then they are taken out into the street.

Any kind of coal and wood can be used to heat the room with the stove of this device. But, when using coal and anthracite, the walls of the furnace must be laid from fire-resistant bricks.

The scheme of laying a furnace with a bottom heating consists of 3 hoods: an upper section and 2 large cavities.

Masonry and design features of the furnace V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo

Furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo.

A feature of the VE Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it has the shape of a cylinder and is enclosed in a steel case. There is no gas turnover in it. The movement of gases in such a furnace occurs under the influence of gravity, and not with the help of traction. Heavy cold gases go down, and heated light ones go up.

The design of this oven consists of two parts.:

1. The upper chamber, in which there is no smoke circulation. It looks like an upside-down glass or cap. Therefore, these furnaces are called channelless and bell-type.
2. The lower section is a firebox, in the ceiling of which there is a hole (hailo) for the outlet of smoke and gases to the upper section.

The heated flue gases do not move from the highlighter to the chimney, they reach the ceiling, and after they have cooled down, they go down to the base of the firebox. From there, they will enter the chimney and be discharged outside.

The brickwork of this oven with your own hands is quite simple. The advantage of the VE Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it cools for a long time and uses 80% of the heat generated by the fuel during combustion.

For a furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo, anthracite and hard coal are most suitable as fuel. When using wood fuel, the gaps between the buttresses are clogged with soot. Cleaning the soot is a rather complicated process, because it is difficult to reach all the cracks through the cleaning doors.

Bunk oven for home: masonry and features

Layout diagram of a bunk oven for a home. Typical.

A bunk oven is essentially two identical ovens, one above the other. To facilitate the construction and save materials, layouts with empty chambers are made between the ovens. The masonry, filling the gap between the two structures, serves as the basis for the top.

The chimney pipe of the stove, which is located at the bottom, passes through the upper one, so its heating area is slightly smaller. The chimney of the upper stove is brought out separately. Laying a bunk oven is quite simple to perform. Doors for cleaning the furnaces from soot are located: in the back - in the lower, and in the side wall - in the upper structure. It is best to use anthracite or hard coal as fuel.

When overlapping the top of empty chambers, it is often used reinforced concrete slab... Due to this, the level of strength and stability of the structure increases. Bricklaying for the stove must be done very carefully. Indeed, in the event of a malfunction, the repair will be difficult.

A two-deck oven is ideal for a two-deck country house... For its construction, you can use furnace schemes, which are made in the form of a square or rectangle.
Video instruction for laying a bunk oven

What is better to use for masonry: materials and tools

Tools for laying stoves: a - mrlotok-pick;
b - oven hammer; c - rule; g - wooden shovel;
d - building level; e - wet brush; g - pliers;
h - cycle; and - stukalets; k - scribe; l - rasp;
m - square; n - plumb line; o - sledgehammer; p - chisel;
p - trowel; c - jointing

For laying furnaces, in most cases, fire-resistant fireclay bricks are used. Its main advantage over the rest of the brick is that, although it heats up for a long time, it keeps heat for a very long time. This allows the room to warm up evenly and maintains a constant temperature in it.

When, the main thing is to pay attention to the quality of the material. If the brick is burnt too much, its refractoriness and quality will decrease. This brick is best used for laying out the base of the oven. It is not very suitable for a firebox, since heat exchange will be disrupted.

But, fireclay bricks are best suited for laying out parts that are in direct contact with fire. As a facing material will fit ceramic brick.

For laying the structure, you can not use silicate brick... It does not stick to the solution, and absorbs moisture under heat loads.

Bricklaying technology is not complicated. Good enough to be able to fold the stove yourself, or ask for help from a specialist.

The clay, brick and sand used for masonry must be of very high quality. After all, an oven is a device that is created on long years, and its use should not be flammable.

Tools that will be needed for laying a brick structure:

1. A trowel for laying out mortar.
2. Pickaxe hammer, for leveling and splitting bricks if needed.
3. Shovel for mixing mortar.
4. Grooves for smoothing convex and concave seams.
5. Ordering tool, to check the evenness of laying out the rows of bricks.

Basic principles of laying brick structures:

• The bricks must be laid only one at a time. For the inexperienced, it is better to lay out the row without mortar and only then use the mixture.
• Each brick is thoroughly cleaned of dust and chips with a brush.
• For better adhesion of the solution, the ceramic brick is immersed in water for a short time.
• Fireclay bricks should not be wetted with water under any circumstances!
• After laying, the brick cannot be moved and tapped, therefore it must be laid in one confident movement.
• If it was not possible to lay the brick right away, then it is removed and the solution is cleaned.
• The solution that has been cleaned off can no longer be used.

All now more people make their choice in favor of stoves in their homes. This is due, first of all, to the efficiency of this heating method. It is in the pursuit of fuel economy and better heat transfer that all new designs of stoves are being created. The most important thing is to carefully study and choose a scheme that is suitable for a particular home.

The disadvantage of the furnace is the need to constantly maintain combustion or smoldering in the furnace. But, when using quality materials and choosing correct scheme, which is suitable for the home, the need for constant tossing of fuel is significantly reduced. Another disadvantage is the inability to use the stove in the summer for cooking.

Stove heating for homes in many regions of our country is the main one. Thick-walled furnaces are often installed, which have increased heat transfer in northern regions; in winter they are drowned once a day. They are able to provide heat to several rooms. They are also used for cooking.

It is unprofitable to install several heating boilers in a house, because fuel consumption and the intensity of house pollution will increase. For the southern regions, a small stove would be the best option; if necessary, it is heated a couple of times a day. You can order this structure, but you can also build it yourself.

Choosing a design

Before choosing a boiler design (there are many of them), you must first determine its location in the house. The most the best option placement is the case when the firebox faces the corridor, and the surfaces are oriented towards the rooms. At the same time, the oven mirror should not be covered by furniture, partitions, etc. Its heat transfer with closed walls decreases by about 1/3.

Heat transfer is approximately proportional to the surface area of ​​the entire furnace structure. When choosing a location, the user must find the type of stove that is suitable for the house and install it so that its largest side faces the most spacious room.

For example, if you need to heat two large adjacent rooms, then it is better to build a stove with a narrow rear side led out to the side of the corridor and wide side mirrors.

When building with your own hands, the foundation for the structure must have the same area as the masonry. When arranging it on weak soils special reinforced concrete belts with a thickness of 100-150 mm are installed under the furnace, or reinforced seams 30-50 mm thick.

The choice of the foundation is made during the laying: you need to draw up a plan in which it is determined what the base of the furnace will be. After arranging the foundation for the house, you can start producing the base for placing the heating furnace.

In this case, one must adhere to such simple rules... It is erected under the stove separately from the main foundation of the house. Broken crushed stone and bricks are placed in the pit in layers 15-20 cm thick. Each layer is tamped and poured with cement mortar. The last layer is also laid out. After that, two layers of bricks are laid, as when making walls with cement mortar.

The waterproofing is equipped with glassine, roofing felt or roofing material, as well as several layers of bricks installed on clay mortar. The top of this stove base should exceed the floor level by 1-2 cm. The boiler is placed on such a base.

Choosing a stove structure

Almost every owner can build any of the stoves. But at the same time, it is necessary to follow the main recommendations for the arrangement. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with them by examining the following information.

Choosing a brick

When building with your own hands, one of the primary tasks is the choice of bricks. The brick should be red and well baked. Well-burnt means that it has been processed at a specific temperature. This can be determined by the following criteria.

Burnt bricks are covered with a dark coating and a vitreous film. Unburned brick is pale pink, when tapped and dropped, a dull sound is emitted. When dropped on a hard surface, it shatters into small pieces. A brick, called normally fired, also splits when dropped, but into large pieces. It emits a metallic sound when tapped. This brick should be pricked easily during processing.

For stove inserts, red brick is "a little weak". The first chimney and the firebox are the components of the heating furnace, where the temperature is highest, therefore they require laying refractory refractory bricks. In this case, the brick is chosen depending on the fuel, which will mainly heat the dwelling. If peat burns in it, you need Borovichi, firewood - white Gzhel, coal - fireclay bricks.

Preparing the solution

The next step is the process of preparing the solution for brick oven heating. High quality mortar guarantees the durability of the masonry. It is made from clay and sifted sand. Clay is placed in the trough and filled with water. After 3 days, it is necessary to strain the solution.

When the solution is ready, it is necessary to prepare the instrument in advance. To carry out construction work, we need:

• Master OK;
• hammer;
• pick;
• level;
• corner;
• sponge brush for grouting surfaces.

The work can be simplified by installing vertical racks around the perimeter of the stove. Having equipped such a simple structure, you will not need to check the masonry horizontally and vertically.

You need to know that the heating furnace is laid only in warm weather, the best option will be if the temperature is not below 15 ° C.

When laying, regardless of the chosen design of the ordinal masonry, try so that the thickness of the seam is about 3-4 mm, it is possible less, but not more. For the foundation and pipes, seams are suitable and thicker - up to 1 cm. It is important that there are no cavities between the seams.

It is not necessary to coat the firebox and fuel channels with clay. The corners and turns in the channels must be rounded; all channels in the oven must be rounded and smooth. This is necessary in order to achieve minimal friction against the walls of the channels, to avoid impacts during movement against various obstacles as a result of sharp expansion and contraction of the channel openings. Therefore, it is impossible to lay the chipped or chipped part of the brick inside the channels.

Place the grates with a gap of about 0.7–1 cm from the masonry wall. They should have a slope towards the stove door so that the remnants of unburned fuel do not accumulate at the rear wall of the structure. Drying usually takes about 14 days if all views, valves and vents are completely closed. In order to speed up drying, the stove can be heated with small amounts of completely dry wood.

Cross-sectional dimension smoke channel depends on the amount of gases that will flow through it. If its heat transfer for heating does not exceed 3000 Kcal per 1 hour, its cross section should be 14 * 14 cm or 0.5 * 0.5 bricks. If its level is higher than 3000 Kcal, then it should have dimensions of 14 * 27 cm or 0.5 * 1 brick.

The chimney heads are laid on cement mortar... Part surface outer pipe located in attic spaces houses must be plastered and then whitewashed. This is done to ensure fire safety... The pipe height is measured from the grate. In one-story buildings, it should not be less than 5 meters. In the places where it passes, they equip a fluff - they make a gradual overlap of bricks.

In the event that the thickness of the walls of the structure is not less than 1.5 bricks, then it can be equipped with a mounted chimney. In this case, the chimney must be installed directly on the stove. Unlike root mounted chimney the house does not need a foundation. The root pipe is installed in a house that has several stoves. In this case, the connection of structures that are located at different levels is unacceptable, since the lower one will take all the thrust from the upper one if they work simultaneously.

Regardless of the chosen pipe design, an otter is equipped over the roof of the house, which should hang over the roof. She does not allow hitting attic floors water. The solution underneath is spread with a thick layer for a firm hold on the pipe. Often it is made in the form of a square, the size of which should exceed the pipe diameter by 20-30 cm. Often, the otter is built by pouring a reinforced concrete structure.

After the otter, the neck of the pipe is settled, and behind it is the expanding head. All these elements of the boiler - otter, head, neck - are plastered. To do this, you must first moisten the pipe with water. After that, a liquid layer of the solution is applied, and a thick solution is also laid in several layers. All layers are thoroughly crushed and the cracks that have appeared are grout, after which they are whitewashed with lime.

• 1 part clay;
• 1 part cement;
• 1 part lime dough;
• 2 parts sand or 1 part clay;
• 2 pieces of sand.

Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating a house and a summer residence

Even a novice bricklayer is quite capable of building a brick oven for a brick house with your own hands. Due to the abundance and availability of information, it is enough just to choose a suitable design with an order and a detailed description of all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's consider in detail how to build a brick oven with your own hands.

The oven starts from the foundation

Even a small brick oven with your own hands, laid out in a country house or in a bathhouse, weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to put it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.

The top cut of the foundation matches the level of the subfloor. Need to convert Special attention so that the top plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid skewing the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove-maker.

Two layers of roofing material, glassine or strong building film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. Lay on top of the waterproofing steel sheet and a layer of heat insulator (so that heat does not go into the foundation). On this whole "cake" for the future brick oven, bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid with their own hands.

Preparation of mortar for oven masonry

Unlike a conventional wall, a brick stove with your own hands is not built on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. Compositions of solutions for chamotte and ceramic brick differ considerably.

Solution for fireclay bricks prepared on the basis of white kaolin or chamotte marl. Minerals are highly refractory and can withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mixture for the preparation of refractory masonry mortar usually purchased in retail chains.

The mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared on the basis of ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many building supermarkets.

For 100 pcs. brick will need about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batching. This is done as follows:

• The clay is soaked for a day in cold water.
• The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each, respectively.
• All the resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.

We test samples:

• roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
• In the case when cracks of more than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is not suitable.
• With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
• If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, such a solution is quite suitable for making a stove with your own hands.

Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good kiln clay, the essence of the tests boils down to determining the maximum possible fraction of the filler in the solution.

DIY brick oven for home video

Bricklaying technology

The furnace diagram shown below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability with a high success rate. A do-it-yourself brick stove is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allotted for the oven is only 0.4 sq. m. A very small amount of brick is used for the construction, therefore, the weight is very small.

The laying of the stove starts from the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane, a thin layer of river washed or rock sand can be poured under the brick. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will act as an additional heat insulator.

The basics of choosing a building material

The thickness of the mortar between the bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the smoothest bricks with the same dimensions - since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!

On the second row, we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. The door is fastened with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut in the brick with a grinder.

The third row is already laid out from fireclay bricks. The grates are placed on it after the clay has set.

The laying of the stoves of the fourth row is laid on the edge. If the grates do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, providing gaps of 3 mm on all sides.

When laying a brick oven, it is important to know!

The rear "knockout" brick is placed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.

On the fifth row, similar to the blower one, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.

The seventh - ninth rows are laid out again flat. A cast iron hob is laid on top of the ninth row. An asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.

Using a cord to seal masonry

Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay mortar will quickly crumble away from the thermal expansion of the cast iron plate.

The last three rows form a place for easy installation chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.

After complete drying of the masonry, the "knock-out" brick is pulled out and debris is removed from the channel. So that the sand from under the stove does not spill out, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.

Brick stoves for giving video

Choosing pipes for the chimney

Any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters will serve as a chimney for this stove. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm in diameter for a circular section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the grate of the combustion chamber is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the chimney can be extended by 25-50 cm.

Brick kiln finishing

The finished masonry of the stove is whitewashed on the outside with a simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. As a binder, you can add fat milk to the water. And to prevent the appearance of yellowness, ordinary blueing will help.

If you are deciding how to fold the oven of a higher level, choose one of the available options its refinement:

• covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
• outer metal screen;
• decorative jointing or painting of joints with heat-resistant paint.

Brick and tile laying should be foreseen in advance, since during the construction process, the external elements are tied with the masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and it is better to entrust it to professional stove-makers. It is better to install the metal screen not close, but at some distance from the furnace body. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the heating rate of the room.

Outcome

Knowing how to build a stove in a house with your own hands, you can provide any small room with affordable heating. The experience gained during the first construction will form the basis for further improvement of this demanded skill.

There are many options for stoves for summer cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial spending, others require direct hands. What about those who did not work out either with money or with skill? A simple one will help out brick stove, which even a "humanist" can add.

This article discusses two options. The first is suitable for those who want more or less "decent" heating and cooking equipment. The second will come in handy for readers who generally do not pretend either to a penchant for handicraft, or to any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. Simple brick oven

How to make a simple yet effective oven?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating devices- for example, a potbelly stove. With this oven, you can heat the room and cook food, and even admire the flame.

The structure takes up just over half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require. The weight of the structure is not large enough to make a powerful base - just put a solid board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of this option is that the starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they do not go beyond the skills of the average male representative.

On a note! No qualifications are required for the construction of the furnaces. But it is necessary to observe order - this will make the structure as efficient as possible in the context of its potential.

What will it take to work?

This is not only a simple but also a budget option. To erect a structure you will need:

• brick:
• * fireclay - 37 pcs.;
• * red - 60 pcs.;
• blower door;
• firebox door;
• lattice;
• gate valve;
• cast iron hob.

Clay solution is used as a binder. In total, you will need about 20-25 liters of the mixture.

It will also be interesting: - types and characteristics.

Preparation

The first step is to determine the location of the oven. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no limitations inherent in traditional brick solutions. By securing sturdy boards or suitable alternative material, "Foundation" heat and waterproof.

The role of an insulator can be played by a non-combustible material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing material is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the size of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. Level the bedding. It is important to make the base even - the quality of the structure and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. Ordering the oven masonry

The oven order is as follows:

1. The first row is placed on the sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are aligned strictly according to the level. The bricks are thinly coated with a mixture, after which the blower door is mounted from the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
2. After fixing the door with a wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. A blower is formed.
3. Chamotte is used (in the diagram it is distinguished by a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is mounted above the blower.
4. Before that, the brick was laid flat. On this row, he is placed on the edge. A flue duct is formed, inside which a basis for a partition is made. One of the bricks (you can see it in the illustration) is laid "dry" - later it will be removed. After that, the firebox door is mounted, which is wrapped several times with asbestos strips before installation. But this must be done so that the door opens well upwards. The element is fixed with a wire and a pair of bricks.
5. Again lay the brick flat, duplicating the previous row.
6. Again, the turn of the "ribs" is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. An exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by masonry on the edge. The walls of the chimney must be wiped with a damp cloth.
7. The brick is laid flat according to the scheme. The back wall is made using the ribbed format again.
8. This next to the firebox is closed. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove will be used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
9. The bricks are slightly shifted to the back wall to support the firebox door. Front brickwork lay strips of asbestos dipped in water. This ensures the sealing of the gap between the ceramic and cast iron. The cast-iron panel cannot be placed directly on the clay solution, otherwise the difference in the parameters of thermal expansion of the materials will lead to cracks.
10. At this stage, the formation of the chimney starts. The latter, according to the plan, should smoothly expand to back side... But only a chimney base is made of bricks. The rest is made of lightweight metal. Otherwise, the excess weight of the element can lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
11. Here, a valve is mounted, sealed with asbestos strips. The latter are recommended to be pre-coated clay mortar... This is the final row, which completes the construction of the brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining pair of rows is given to the chimney, which will then be docked with a lighter metal channel.

After that, remove those bricks that were laid "dry" on the 4th row. At the same stage, the chimney duct and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not imply serious decorations. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will save the coating from the formation of a yellow coating and whitening.

Important! Before work, brick and metal should be protected. If this is not done (for example, with the help of a film), then you cannot get rid of the stains.

It is necessary to grease very well the seams between the brick and the metal of the chimney, as well as the seams between the ceramics and cast iron.

It is imperative to close the joint between the oven brick and the floor. This will eliminate the ingress of baked sand into the room. It is advisable to cover the joint with an L-shaped sheet. Then a plinth edging is made, which serves as both a decor and an additional element that prevents the "foundation" filling from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning oven

The stove is ready. The whole process took no more than one working day. Already now you can try to make a low-power one. Logs cannot be used - only wood chips or paper. Wood kindling will create too high fever and the structure will crack. For a full set of the mixture, you need to give a week or two. After that, you can already drown "in an adult way."

It is interesting: ? Overview of 10 options.

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed difficult to someone (although it was not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating structure... This oven with your own hands can be laid out in literally an hour, even if your hands are generally far from being called golden.

Figure 4. The simplest brick oven

The principle of the structure is simple. Burns down below solid fuel, here settling under the influence of its own mass. Temperature differences create a draft that carries hot air currents upward. In this case, the firewood burns out almost without residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry, you need only two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that there is no point in describing the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Ordering of the simplest brick structure

If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. It is recommended to tie bricks with clay mortar. But in field conditions you can do without a binder - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.
Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Diagram of a simple stove device

According to this scheme, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed for loading firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney. Figure 9. L-shaped stove

The creation of this structure will also require 20-30 bricks. This option can be mastered by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a bricklayer are completely absent. The construction will be subordinate to a specialist in a matter of minutes.