Junipers are evergreen shrubs or small trees of the Cypress family. They are often grown in gardens and dachas, and are widely used in landscape design... However, sometimes problems arise during cultivation due to which the plants lose their decorative effect. There are several common reasons why the juniper dries up and the needles turn yellow.

Description of culture

Plants are unpretentious to care for, undemanding to soil and moisture. The most resistant types of junipers:

• Cossack;
• Virginia;
• Chinese;
• Siberian;
• ordinary.

Juniper

For your information! Indoor junipers, which are grown at home, rarely have problems. However, they can suffer from dryness in winter and sunburn in summer.

Despite the apparent ease of growing, maintaining plant health is not easy. Many varieties are prone to fungal diseases and react sharply to any adverse changes. environment.

A frequent question of novice gardeners: the juniper dries up, what to do? First you need to identify the cause, and then urgently take action.

Causes of yellowing

The main reasons why the juniper turns yellow are associated with improper care, an invasion of pests or diseases.

Lack or excess of moisture

A juniper can go without water for a long time, but it still needs to be watered once a month. With a moisture deficit, yellowness appears on the needles, the needles can dry out and crumble.

Important! V summer period it is better to mulch the soil under the juniper to reduce moisture evaporation.

In summer, 25-30 liters of water are poured under one plant. In the heat, sprinkling is carried out once a week.

On a note! However, excess moisture is more detrimental to junipers. They start to hurt, at worst they rot root system, as a result of which the plant dies.

Causes of yellowing of juniper

Diseases

Junipers affect many diseases. The most common are:

• Schütte disease is when the needles turn brown or dark yellow. After a while, it will dry out, but will remain on the branches. The disease occurs when the crop grows in the shade or on too wet soil. This is the most common reason why junipers turn yellow in summer. The damaged parts of the plant are subject to unconditional removal. They are burned to kill the spores of the fungus;
• Rust. In the spring, yellow-brown growths appear on the branches. Over time, juniper shoots deform and crack. If rusty spots are found, the affected fragments are immediately removed and the plants are treated with fungicides, for example, topaz, folicur, foundationol.
• Drying of branches. Yellowing of the needles and dying off of the bark are observed. The problem occurs on juniper bushes that are too densely planted. The affected areas are removed, the sections are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
• Nectric and biorellic cancer. Branches, bark and needles turn brown and then die off. They fight the disease in the same way as the drying out of the branches. In case of severe damage, the shrub is uprooted and destroyed.

Important! Proper plant care reduces the risk of disease.

Juniper disease

Wrong soil composition

Juniper loses its decorative effect with increased or decreased acidity of the soil. The optimal indicator for most varieties is from 5 to 5.5. However, some species prefer acidic soil, while others prefer alkaline soil. Specialist stores sell tests to monitor the pH level.

Note! Lime is used to lower acidity, dolomite flour or complex drugs.

For planting juniper, it is better to use a soil mixture prepared from:

• sand;
• peat;
• a small amount of clay.

The site must be equipped with a drainage of chipped bricks, river pebbles, large expanded clay.

Pests

Juniper can turn yellow when exposed to insects:

• juniper scale insects;
• spider mite;
• gall midges;
• juniper sawfly.

Juniper pests

Interesting! Will help to exterminate pests systemic insecticides: aktara, confidor, calypso. The drugs are used alternately so that insects do not develop immunity.

Lack of nutrients

Juniper actively signals the lack of useful elements:

• yellowing or whitening of the needles - iron deficiency;
• reddening of the needles - lack of phosphorus;
• developmental delay, pale color of the crown - lack of nitrogen.

If the problem is not resolved, the plant will continue to dry out and die.

Young junipers are fed annually, adults - once every 2-3 years. The optimal time is spring.

Note! Falling needles inside the crown at the beginning of autumn is normal. In place of the old needles, new ones will grow next year - young and beautiful.

When the reason why the juniper is drying is revealed, it will become clear what can be done to save it.

Disease prevention

Diseases are easier to prevent than to cure. To do this, when growing a juniper, you must follow the rules.

• Plant only healthy bushes. If there are doubts about the quality, then it is better to treat them with Quadris or phytosporin preparations.
• The risk of disease increases significantly if agricultural practices are not followed. You can not thicken the planting, place the bushes on heavy soil with poor air circulation and stagnant water.
• After removing the branches of the juniper, the cuts must be treated with garden pitch. He disinfects the tools beforehand, otherwise the procedure will not be beneficial, but will only aggravate the situation.

Prevention of Juniper Diseases

• Preventive measures are carried out at the beginning and end of the season. Plants are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or its analogues.
• To increase the resistance of junipers, micronutrient fertilizers with an immunomodulatory effect are used.

Important! You need to regularly check the health of the bushes. When the first signs of malaise are detected, appropriate measures are taken immediately.

How to revive a juniper

The juniper turned yellow, what should I do in this case? First, the cause is eliminated, then a set of procedures is carried out using growth stimulants. They will help to quickly restore the crown:

1. Juniper needles are sprayed with epin-extra (2 ml per 10 l of water).
2. After 10 days, a zircon solution (1 ml per 10 L) is applied. They cultivate the crown and water the soil abundantly in the near-trunk circle. You can additionally use a root stimulant to activate the work of the roots. The procedures are carried out 2-3 times every 7 days.
3. The final stage is re-treatment of juniper needles with Epin-extra.

Interesting! If the plant is badly damaged, the recovery course is repeated several more times. At the same time, the juniper is fed mineral fertilizers, which help to return the crown to its original state. Ferovit is added to the working solution to stimulate photosynthesis.

How to revive a juniper

Juniper turned yellow after winter: causes and plant recovery

Why does juniper turn yellow and dry out after winter? This is a fairly common question. This is how sunburn occurs. Light is reflected from the snow cover, and the needles cannot withstand the radiation. The root system of the plant is frozen and does not provide the needles with moisture. As a result, they dry out. Therefore, in the spring, gardeners observe yellow bushes.

To help a juniper, you should:

• in regions with a harsh climate, plant frost-resistant varieties;
• mulch the trunk circle so that the root system does not freeze, for example, with peat or sawdust;
• young plants are covered with non-woven materials.

These measures do not exclude the occurrence of sunburn. In order to save the plant, which still suffered, a complex of restorative procedures is carried out with the help of growth stimulants.

Important! The crown of columnar varieties is tied for the winter so that it does not "crumble" under the weight of the snow.

What to do when a juniper dries up depends on the cause. This could be improper care, illness, or the influence of pests. To protect and restore plants, a set of measures is carried out, and during the growing season, its health is constantly monitored.

They do not lose their attractiveness and decorativeness throughout the year, and, as a rule, live longer than many deciduous species. They are an excellent material for creating compositions due to the varied shape of the crown and the color of the needles. The most widely used in professional and amateur gardening are such coniferous shrubs like junipers, yew, thuja; from wood - pine, larch, spruce. Therefore, information about their main diseases is relevant. The issue of treating conifers is especially acute in the spring, when you have to deal with burning, winter desiccation and infectious diseases on plants weakened after winter.

First of all it should be mentioned non-communicable diseases, caused by negative effects on growth and development conifers unfavorable conditions environment. Although conifers are picky about high humidity soil and air, excessive moisture associated with natural waterlogging, rising groundwater, spring floods and abundant autumn precipitation, leads to yellowing and necrosis of the needles. The same symptoms very often appear due to a lack of moisture in the soil and low air humidity.

Tui, ate, yews are very sensitive to drying out of the roots, therefore, immediately after planting them trunk circles it is recommended to mulch with peat and grass mown from lawns, if possible, maintain mulching during the entire period of their growth, and water regularly. The most drought-resistant are pines, thuja and junipers. In the first year after planting, it is advisable to spray young plants with water in the evening hours and shade them in the hot period. The overwhelming majority of conifers are shade-tolerant; when grown in open sunny places, they may stagnate, their needles may turn yellow and even die off. On the other hand, many of them cannot stand strong shading, especially the light-requiring pines and larch trees. To protect the bark from sunburn, it can be whitewashed with lime or special whitewashing in early spring or at the end of autumn.

The condition and appearance of plants largely depend on the supply of nutrients and the balance of their ratios. The lack of iron in the soil leads to yellowing and even whitening of the needles on individual shoots; with a lack of phosphorus, young needles acquire a red-purple hue; with a nitrogen deficiency, the plants grow noticeably worse, become chlorotic. The best growth and development of plants occurs on well-drained and well-cultivated soils, provided with nutrients. Slightly acidic or neutral soil is preferred. It is recommended to carry out top dressing with special fertilizers intended for conifers. On summer cottages conifers can suffer from frequent visits to dogs and cats, causing excessive concentration of salts in the soil. In such cases, shoots with red needles appear on thuja and juniper, which subsequently dry out.

Low temperatures in winter and spring frosts cause freezing of the crown and roots, while the needles become dry, acquire a reddish color, die off, the bark cracks. The most winter-hardy are spruce, pine, fir, thuja, juniper. Branches of coniferous plants can break off from the gorse and snow break in the winter.

Many conifers are sensitive to air pollution from harmful industrial and automotive gases. This is manifested, first of all, by yellowing, starting from the ends of the needles and their falling off (death).

Conifers are rarely severely affected. infectious diseases, although in some cases they can suffer greatly from them. Young plants in general are less resistant to a complex of non-infectious and infectious diseases, their resistance increases with age.

Types of soil-dwelling fungi of the genera Pytium(pitium) and Rhizoctonia(rhizoctonia) lead roots of seedlings to decay and withering away often cause significant losses of young plants in schools and containers.

The causative agents of tracheomycotic wilting are most often anamorphic fungi. Fusarium oxysporum, which are classified as soil pathogens. The affected roots turn brown, the mycelium penetrates into the vascular system and fills it with its biomass, which stops access nutrients, and the affected plants, starting from the upper shoots, wither. The needles turn yellow, turn red and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Seedlings and young plants are most affected. The infection persists in plants, plant debris and spreads with infected planting material or with infected soil. The development of the disease is facilitated by: stagnant water in low areas, lack of sunlight.

Use healthy planting material as protective measures. Timely remove all dried plants with roots, as well as affected plant debris. For preventive purposes, short-term soaking of young plants with an open root system is carried out in a solution of one of the drugs: Baktofit, Vitaros, Maxim. At the first symptoms, the soil is spilled with a solution of one of the biological products: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair. For prevention purposes, the soil is spilled with Fundazol.

Gray mold (rot) affects the aerial parts of young plants, especially in unventilated areas with strong thickening of plantings and insufficient lighting. Affected shoots turn gray-brown, as if covered with a layer of dust.

In addition to these diseases, which are widespread in deciduous trees, there are diseases that are characteristic only of conifers. First of all, they include shute, the causative agents of which are some types of ascomycete fungi.

Real shute Lophodermium seditiosum- one of the main reasons for premature falling of pine needles. Young plants are mainly affected, incl. in the open ground of nurseries, and weakened trees, which can lead to their death due to strong falling of needles. During spring and early summer, the needles become brown and fall off. In autumn, small yellowish dots are noticeable on the needles, gradually growing and turning brown, later on the dead, crumbling needles, dotted black fruit bodies are formed - apothecia, by which the fungus persists.

Common pine shute that has similar symptoms and a developmental cycle causes Lophodermium pinastri. In autumn or more often in spring next year the needles turn yellow or become reddish-brown and die off. Then, the fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on it in the form of small black strokes or dots, blackening and increasing by autumn. Thin dark transverse lines appear on the needles. Dispersion of spores and infection of needles is facilitated by moderately warm weather, drizzling rains and dew. Weakened plants in nurseries and crops up to 3 years of age and pine self-seeding are more often affected and killed.

Called by the fungus Phlacidium infestans, which mainly affects pine species. It is especially harmful in areas with many snows, where sometimes it completely destroys the renewal of Scots pine.

It develops under snow cover and develops relatively quickly even at temperatures around 0 degrees. The mycelium grows from needles to needles and often further to neighboring plants. After the snow melts, the dead needles and often shoots turn brown and die off. Diseased plants are covered with grayish, rapidly disappearing mycelium films. During the summer, the needles die off, become reddish-red, later light gray. It crumbles, but almost does not fall off. In a twisted pine ( Pinus contorta) the dead needles are more reddish than those of Scots pine. By the fall, apothecia become visible, like small dark dots scattered over the needles. Ascospores from them are spread by air currents on living pine needles just before they are usually covered with snow. The development of the fungus is favored by drizzling rains, falling and melting snow in autumn, mild, snowy winters, and prolonged spring.

Brown shute, or brown snow mold conifers affects pines, fir, spruce, cedars, junipers, caused by a fungus Herpotrichia nigra... It is found more often in nurseries, young stands, self-seeding and young undergrowth. This disease manifests itself in early spring after the snow melts, and the primary infection of needles with ascospores occurs in the fall. The disease develops under snow at temperatures not lower than 0.5 ° C. The lesion is detected after the snow melts: on the brown dead needles, a black-gray cobweb bloom of the mycelium is noticeable, and then the dotted fruiting bodies of the pathogen fungus. The needles do not fall off for a long time, thin branches die off. The development of the disease is facilitated high humidity, the presence of depressions in the cultivated areas, the thickening of plants.

Signs of defeat juniper schütte(causative agent - mushroom Lophodermium juniperinum) appear in early summer on last year's needles, which acquire a dirty yellow or brown color and do not crumble for a long time. From the end of summer on the surface of the needles, round fruit bodies, black up to 1.5 mm, are noticeable, in which marsupial sporulation of the fungus remains in winter. The disease develops intensively on weakened plants, in humid conditions, and can lead to death of plants.

Protective measures against shute include the selection of planting material that is sustainable in origin, giving the plants as much resistance as possible, timely thinning, and the use of fungicidal spraying. Shaded plants are most susceptible to disease. The harmfulness of shute increases with high snow cover and prolonged melting. In forests and parks, instead of natural regeneration, planting of plants of the necessary origin is recommended. The planted plants are more evenly distributed over the area, making it difficult for mycelium to infest one plant from another, in addition, they quickly reach a height above the critical level. In those areas where Schütte damages Scots pine, twisted pine or European spruce can be used, which is extremely rare. Only healthy planting material should be used. It is recommended to remove fallen diseased needles in a timely manner to cut off dried branches.

Fungicidal treatments must be used in nurseries. Spraying with copper-containing and sulfur preparations (for example, Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak or HOM, lime-sulfur broth) in early spring and autumn effectively reduces the development of diseases. With the manifestation of the disease to a strong degree in summer time spraying is repeated.

Of particular importance for conifers are rust diseases caused by fungi of the Basidiomycot division, class Uredinomycetes, affecting the needles and bark of shoots, in fact all of their pathogens are of different households, and from conifers they pass to other plants, causing their defeat. Here is a description of some of them.

Cones rust, spruce wither... On the inside of the spruce scales, which is the intermediate host of the rust fungus Puccinia strumareolatum, rounded, dusty dark brown eciopustules appear. The cones are wide open, hanging for several years. The seeds are not germinable. Sometimes shoots are bent, the disease in this form is called spruce wither. The main host is bird cherry, on the leaves of which small round light purple uredinio, then black teliopustules appear.

Summons a rust mushroom Melampsora pinitorqua... The ecial stage develops on the pine, as a result of which its shoots bend in an S-shape, the top of the shoot dies off. Aspen is the main host. In summer, small yellow urediniopustules form on the underside of the leaves, the spores of which cause massive infection of the leaves. Then, by autumn, black teliopustules are formed, in the form of which the fungus overwinters on plant debris.

Rust of pine needles cause several species of the genus Coleosporium. Affects mainly double-doubled species of the genus Pinus, is found everywhere in their ranges, mainly in nurseries and young growth. Etsiostadia of the fungus develops in the spring on pine needles. Yellow vesicle-like eciopustules are located in disarray on both sides of the needles, uredo- and teliospores are formed on coltsfoot, wild rose, sow thistle, bellflower and other herbaceous plants. With a strong spread of the disease, the needles turn yellow and fall off prematurely, and the plants lose their decorative effect.

Miscellaneous mushroom Cronartium ribicola causes pine whirligig(five-coniferous pines) , or columnar currant rust. First, the needles become infected, gradually the fungus spreads into the bark and wood of branches and trunks. In the lesion sites, resin is released and eciopustulae in the form of yellow-orange vesicles emerge from the ruptures of the cortex. Under the influence of the mycelium, a thickening is formed, which eventually turns into open wounds, the overlying part of the shoot dries up or bends. The intermediate host is the currant; gooseberries can rarely be affected, on the underside of their leaves numerous pustules are formed in the form of small columns, orange, then brown.

Mushrooms of the genus Gymnosporangium (G. comfusum, G. juniperinu, G. sabinae), pathogens juniper rust infect cotoneaster, hawthorn, apple, pear, quince, which are intermediate hosts. In the spring, the disease develops on their foliage, causing the formation of yellowish outgrowths (pustules) on the underside of the leaves, and round orange spots with black dots are visible on the upper side (ecial stage). From the end of summer, the disease passes to the main host plant - the juniper (teliostadia). From autumn and early spring, yellow-orange gelatinous masses of sporulation of the pathogen fungus appear on its needles and branches. Fusiform thickenings appear on the affected parts of the branches, and individual skeletal branches begin to die off. On the trunks, often on the root collar, swellings and sagging are formed, on which the bark dries out and shallow wounds open. Over time, the affected branches dry out, the needles turn brown and crumble. The infection persists in the affected juniper bark. The disease is chronic, almost incurable.

Rust of birch, larch - Melampsoridium betulinum. Small yellow pustules appear on the underside of birch and alder leaves in spring, yellowing, the growth of shoots decreases. Larch, which is the main host, turns yellow needles in summer.

As protective measures against rust diseases it is possible to recommend spatial isolation from affected plants that have a common causative agent of the disease. So, you should not grow poplar and aspen next to pines, five-coniferous pines should be isolated from planting black currants. Cutting out affected shoots, increasing resistance through the use of micronutrient fertilizers and immunostimulants will reduce the harmfulness of rust.

Causative agents desiccation of juniper branches there may be several mushrooms: Cytospora pini, Diplodia juniperi, Hendersonia notha, Phoma juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Rhabdospora sabinae... Drying of the bark and the formation of numerous brown and black fruit bodies on it are observed. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and uncleaned plant debris. Thickened planting and the use of contaminated planting material contribute to the spread.

Tui can often also appear drying out, drying up of shoots and branches, caused more often by the same fungal pathogens. Typical manifestation- yellowing and dropping of leaves from the ends of the shoot, browning of the young growth of branches; in humid conditions, sporulation of fungi is noticeable on the affected parts.

The causative agent of which is a mushroom Pestalotiopsis funerea causes a necrotic disease of the bark of the branches and the browning of the needles. On the affected tissues, olive-black sporulation of the fungus is formed in the form of individual pads. With a strong drying out of the branches in hot weather, the pads dry out and take the form of scabs. With an abundance of moisture on the affected needles and bark of the stems, a grayish-black mycelium develops. Affected branches and needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the bark of drying branches.

Sometimes on juniper plants appears biorella cancer... Its causative agent is a mushroom Biatorella difformis, is the conidial stage of the marsupial fungus Biatoridina pinastri... With mechanical damage to the branches, over time, pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in the bark and wood, causing bark necrosis. The fungus spreads in the tissues of the bark, the bark turns brown, dries up, cracks. The wood gradually dies off and longitudinal ulcers form. Over time, rounded fruiting bodies are formed. The defeat and dying off of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches.

Causative agent nectria juniper cancer is a marsupial mushroom Nectria cucurbitula, with conidial stage Zythia cucurbitula... On the surface of the affected bark, numerous brick-red sporulation pads up to 2 mm in diameter are formed, over time they darken and dry out. The development of the fungus causes the death of the bark and bast of individual branches. The needles turn yellow and fall off, affected branches and whole bushes dry up. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened plantings and the use of contaminated planting material.

V last years on many cultures, incl. conifers, mushrooms of the genus Alternaria. Causative agent Alternaria juniper is a mushroom Alternaria tenuis... On the affected needles, which become brown, and on the branches, a velvety bloom of black appears. The disease manifests itself when the plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris.

To combat drying out and alternaria, you can use preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak, copper chloride. If necessary, in the summer, spraying is repeated every 2 weeks. The use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil significantly reduce the prevalence of diseases.

Larch cancer causes marsupial mushroom Lachnellulawillkommii... Its mycelium is distributed in the bark and wood of larch branches during its spring and autumn growth dormancy. The next summer, new bark and wood are built up around the wound. As preventive protective measures, it is recommended to plant resistant species of larch, grow them in favorable conditions, do not thicken, avoid frost damage.

Some types of mushrooms can settle on the stems of conifers. tinder fungi, forming on the bark rather large fruiting bodies, annuals and perennials, causing cracking of the bark, as well as rot of roots and wood. For example, pine wood affected by a root sponge is first purple, then white spots appear on it, which turn into voids. The wood becomes cellular, sieve.

Thuja stem rot is often caused by tinder fungi: pine sponge Porodaedalea pini, causing a variegated red rot of the trunk and the tinder fungus Sveinitsa - Phaeolus schweinitzii, which is the causative agent of brown central fissured root rot. In both cases, the fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the rot of the wood. In the first case, they are perennial, woody, the upper part is dark brown, up to 17 cm in diameter; in the second mushroom, annual fruiting bodies in the form of flat caps, often on legs, are arranged in groups. Affected plants gradually die, and unharvested dried plants and their parts are a source of infection.

It is necessary to cut out sick, damaged, dried branches in a timely manner, cut off the fruiting bodies of tinder fungus. Wound injuries are cleaned and treated with putty or varnish-based paint. Use healthy planting material. You can carry out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes. Grubbing the stumps is obligatory.

Consider the most common juniper diseases in Russia, in addition, we list the main pests of this coniferous plant.

Tracheomycotic wilting, or fusarium, juniper

The causative agents are fungi Fusarium oxysporum Schl. and F. sambucinum Fuck., are soil pathogens that cause rotting of the root system. The roots turn brown, the mycelium penetrates into the vascular system and fills it with its biomass. The access of nutrients ceases, and the affected plants, starting from the upper shoots, wither, the needles turn yellow, turn red and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Seedlings and young plants in nurseries are most affected. It is believed that with the age of plants, the fungus passes into the composition of mycorrhiza and does not cause much harm.

Rice. 69. Reddening of the needles and drying out young plant

COMBAT MEASURES
Use healthy planting material. Timely culling and burning of all dried plants along with roots, collection of affected plant residues. Compliance with all agrotechnical requirements for the cultivation of this crop. For prophylactic purposes, green cuttings are etched before rooting and young plants with an open root system before planting in a solution of one of the drugs: bactofit, vitaros, maxim. At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot, the soil is shed under the plants with a solution of one of the drugs: phytosporin-M, alirin-B, hamair. In industrial cultivation, preventive and eradicating spraying and soil spilling with a 0.2% solution of foundationol are carried out.

Shute brown juniper
Rice. 70. The beginning of the manifestation of shyute.

Rice. 71. Drying of the bush with a strong spread of brown shute.

The causative agent is the mushroom Herpotrichia juniperi. In spring, the needles turn yellow and become covered with a cobweb mycelium, which is grayish at first, but gradually becomes black-brown, dense, as if gluing the needles. Over time, black globular small fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the pathogenic fungus are formed in the affected needles. The needles turn brown, dry up and do not crumble for a long time, which
greatly reduces the decorative effect of plants. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the affected needles.
COMBAT MEASURES *
Use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of dead branches, preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM). When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with one of the same drugs.
Shute juniper
Rice. 72. Yellowing and drying of the needles are the first signs of shute.

Rice. 73. Formation of fruiting bodies on dried needles inside the crown of the plant.
The causative agent is the mushroom Lophodermium juniperinum. The needles of last year's shoots in the spring, in May, turn brown and do not crumble for a long time. Over time, small shiny black fruit bodies are formed on the needles. The infection persists in the affected needles and plant debris.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the brown juniper shute.

Shrinking juniper branches
Rice. 74. Desiccation of lateral branches with the manifestation of the disease.

Rice. 75. Formation of fruiting bodies during the spread of drying out of branches.

Rice. 76. Dying off of the bark and lateral branches.
Several fungi can be the causative agents of branch drying: Cytospora pini Desm., Diplodiajuniperi West., Hendersonia notha Sacc. et Bn, Phoma juniperi (Desm.) Sacc, Phomopsis juniperovora Hahn., Rhabdospora sabinae Sacc. et Fautr. Drying of the bark and the formation on it of numerous small fruiting bodies of brown and black color is observed. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches and in unharvested plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material.

COMBAT MEASURES
Compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, the use of high-quality planting material. Pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil. Collect and burn all pruned diseased branches. Carrying out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM). When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with the same preparations.

Juniper blight
Rice. 77. Browning and drying out of needles and branches affected by alternariosis.

Rice. 78. Browning and dying off of branches of a young plant affected by alternariasis.
The causative agent is the fungus Alternaria tenuis Nees. On the affected brown needles and branches, a velvety bloom of black appears. The needles fall off, the branches of the bushes dry up. The disease manifests itself when the plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris under the bushes.

COMBAT MEASURES

Juniper rust
Rice. 79. Juniper branches with strong rust spread.

Rice. 80. The appearance of mucus on a swollen branch of a juniper.

Rice. 81. Formation of mucus on the affected juniper needles.

Rice. 82. Sporulation of rust on the affected branches.

Rice. 83. Browning and drying out of bushes with strong spread of rust.
The causative agents are fungi Gymnosporangium confusum Plown, G. juniperinum Mart., G. sabinae (Dicks.) Wint. Mushrooms of various households: the main cycle of their development occurs on the juniper, and the intermediate hosts are pome crops (apple, pear, quince, hawthorn, cotoneaster).

Fungal spores germinate on shoots, skeletal branches, needles and cones and form a wintering mycelium. Thickening appears on the affected parts, and the death of individual skeletal branches begins. On the trunks, more often at the root collar, swelling and sagging are formed, on which the bark dries out and shallow wounds open. In early spring, when there is still snow all around, brown outgrowths appear on the branches, trunks, in the cracks of the bark, which swell after the rain and become covered with mucus. Teliospores develop in them, which germinate and form a golden-orange bloom, consisting of basidiospores. They are quickly carried by the wind and re-inoculate pome crops. Over time, the affected branches dry out, the needles turn brown and crumble. The infection persists in the affected juniper bark. On common juniper, mushrooms that cause rust of apple and quince overwinter; on Cossack junipers, tall and red, a mushroom that causes pear rust (G. confusum Plowr.) Overwinters.
COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against drying out of juniper branches.

Biotorella Juniper Cancer
Rice. 84. Shrinkage of branches during the manifestation of biotorella cancer.

Rice. 85. Drying of branches, dying off and cracking of the bark, exposure of a cancerous ulcer in the wood.

Rice. 86. Browning and decay of the wood of the trunk of a juniper affected by biotorella cancer.
The causative agent, the fungus Biatorella diformis, is the conidial stage of the fungus Biatoridina pinastri. With mechanical damage to the branches, over time, pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in the bark and wood, causing bark necrosis. The fungus spreads in the tissues of the bark, the bark turns brown, dries up, cracks. The wood gradually dies off, and longitudinal ulcers form. Over time, rounded fruiting bodies are formed. The defeat and dying off of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches.
COMBAT MEASURES
Compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, the use of high-quality planting material. Pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil. Collect and burn all pruned diseased branches. In spring and autumn, preventive spraying of plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM) is carried out. When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with the same preparations.

Juniper bark nectriosis
Rice. 87. Fruit bodies on juniper bark.
The causative agent is the fungus Nectria cucurbitula, the conidial stage of the fungus is Zythia cucurbitula. On the surface of the affected bark, numerous brick-red sporulation pads with a diameter of up to 2 mm are formed; over time, they darken and dry out. The development of the fungus causes the death of the bark and bast of individual branches. The needles turn yellow and fall off, affected branches and whole bushes dry up. The disease is considered cancerous.
The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against drying out of juniper branches.

We have listed the main diseases of juniper (with names and in pictures), followed by material about the pests of this ornamental culture.

Angle-winged pine moth
Rice. 88. Butterfly on a juniper branch
Rice. 89. Pupa skin after moth butterfly emerges
Angle-winged pine moth (Semiothisa liturata) is a purple-gray butterfly with a wingspan of 25-33 mm. On the outer edge of the front wings it has a slight notch, for which it received the name Anglewing. The forewings have three, the hindwings have two sinuous lines and a dark spot at the apex, near which there is a yellow-brown stripe. The hindwings are lighter in color, with a dark point near the middle and with a dark transverse band along the outer margin. Yasha from green, red-brown to violet-gray. Caterpillars up to 30 mm long, green, with a red-brown head and dark green longitudinal stripes. The abdominal legs have alternating, short and long, two-tiered hooks. Pupa brown, up to 11 mm long. Pupae overwinter in forest litter or in soil; in spring, from late May to early June, butterflies begin to fly. Caterpillars feed and develop in the second half of summer and autumn and, after finishing feeding, go into the soil, where they pupate, and then hibernate. The moth is widespread and damages pine, spruce, fir, and juniper.
Juniper needles are also damaged by caterpillars of the cypress bovine (Pachypasa opus Drury.), Juniper sawfly (Monoctenus juniperi L), and the caterpillars of the juniper moth (Laspeyresia mariana Zerpu.) And juniper moth.
COMBAT MEASURES
Carrying out preventive spraying of plants annually, in May - June, with one of the drugs: actellik, decis Profi, fufanon. When a large number of pests are identified in the summer, carrying out eradication spraying with one of the same drugs. With severe damage to the branches and their drying out by pests, pruning of dried branches is carried out with the obligatory covering of cuts and cuts with oil paint on natural drying oil.

Juniper Scale
Rice. 90. Shields on a juniper branch
Juniper scutellum Insulaspis juniperi is a small sucking insect, female scutellum is elongated, brown, 2 mm in size. Females hibernate; from mid-May they lay eggs under the scutellum. Fertility of one female is up to 38 eggs. In the middle of the first decade of June, larvae hatch and stick to the needles. The pest feeds on needles and juniper cones,
paris, pine, thuja. With a large number of scale insects, the damaged needles turn brown, dry out and fall off, drying of young shoots and branches is often observed. At the same time, decorativeness is greatly lost, and young plants even die. The pest develops in one generation.
On needles and cones, there are often thuja scale insects - Carulaspis caruelii (Targ.) And European juniper scale insects - C. viscid Schn, and on needles and twigs, the juniper scale insect - Planococcus vovae (Nass.) Can also feed. It is often found on juniper and aphid - Cinara juniperi, which gives 3-4 generations per season. The presence of aphids can be identified by the activity of ants protecting it from other predatory insects.
COMBAT MEASURES

Gall midges
Rice. 91. An adult gall midge insect on a juniper branch.

Rice. 92. Small orange larva emerging from the gall.

Rice. 93. Galls at the base of needles and outlet openings after emergence of fusiform juniper gall midge.
Gall midges are small gnats up to 2.2 mm long, have delicate transparent wings and yellowish-brown legs. The body is narrow, the antennae are filiform, the head is small with faceted eyes. The larvae are fusiform, 3-4 mm long, bright orange, live and feed in plant tissues, causing them to grow abnormally (galls). Juniper galls can consist of 2, 3 and 4 whorls of needles. In shape, they are conical, fusiform, pointed or oblong. By the location, shape and composition of the galls, specific pests are determined. Thus, galls from whorls of needles on shoots form Valerie's gall midge (Rhopalomyia valerii Tav.), Fusiform juniper gall midge (Obligotropus panteli Kiefif.), Apical juniper gall midge (Obligotropus. Sp.) And common juniper gall midge L.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the angle-winged pine moth.

Juniper stem pests
Rice. 94. Holes in the bark of the juniper stem.

Rice. 95. Holes in the bark of the lateral branch.
Juniper branches and trunks damage several pests. If on the surface of the bark there are small round holes, and under the bark a complex system of grooved passages is visible, then it can be a juniper bast beetle (Phloeosinus bicolor Brulle.) or a juniper bast beetle (Ph. turkestani-cus Sem.). If the passages under the bark do not form a complex system, then perhaps it is a juniper beetle (Anthaxia sepulchralis E), and if there are passages in the bark and in the wood and there is a large larva with pectoral legs, then it is a juniper barbel (Semanotus russicus persicus Sols.).
COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the angle-winged pine moth. In addition, if holes are found in the bark of trees, injections are carried out with Actellik (without dilution): 1 ampoule / 1 m2 of trunk bark - with drops into each hole.

Ants
Rice. 96. A family of red ants brought into the garden together with planting material
Ants - small insects with a stalked abdomen and a gnawing mouth apparatus. Males and females have two pairs of membranous wings, which disappear after mating; working ants have no wings at all. Many species of ants play the role of orderlies of the forest, as they feed on dead insects, while others - entomophages - eat sawfly larvae. Some species harm agricultural plants and ornamental gardens, including conifers. In gardens, they are constant companions of sucking pests - aphids, suckers, worms, scale insects, whose sweet secretions feed on and whose colonies are protected from being eaten by other predatory insects. Ants climb into bee hives, cars, people's homes, where they start new families, eat sweet and meat products. Ants and even entire families of ants often enter gardens with imported planting material from
volume books. They live in plant roots, stumps, rotting wood, tree hollows.
COMBAT MEASURES
Places where ants accumulate are watered with solutions of actellik, fufanon, in places where there is no plant, they are watered with boiling water, parsley is planted near the hives, the smell of which scares off ants. During the growing season of plants, diazinon-based preparations are introduced into the places of accumulation: thunder, thunder-2, medvetox, ant, anteater.

Snails
Rice. 97. Stone Helitsigon on a juniper branch.

Snails are gastropods with a spirally wound shell. There is a special fold (mantle) on the skin that lines the shell from the inside. Two pairs of long tentacles protrude on the head - the lower ones form the labial tentacles, the upper ones end with eyes. The wide lower part of the body represents the leg with which the molluscs move, leaving a characteristic slimy trail. Females lay eggs in heaps in the ground, hatching larvae are similar to adult mollusks, only smaller. They live in humid shaded places, in thickened plantings, hiding in weeds. They feed on leaves, green shoots, fruits, in years with an abundance of precipitation, they cause significant harm to almost all plants, including conifers. Two generations of the pest develop in a year. There are several dozen species in the gardens, differing in the size and shape of the swirling shell. The largest of them is the grape snail (Helix pomatia), the diameter of which can reach 5 cm. Common amber (Succinea putris L.), stone helicigona (Helicigona lapicida L.), thick ifigena (Iphigeniaventricosa Drap.), Etc. are found more often than others.

COMBAT MEASURES
Collection and destruction of single individuals, drainage of wetlands, removal of weeds, thinning of thickened plantings.

European mole
Rice. 98. Moles - heaps of soil, thrown out of the hole of a mole.

The European mole (Talpa europaea L.) from the mole family belongs to the order of insectivores. Moles live underground and make shallow and deep passages. Surface passages are noticeable as rolling bulges with soil crumbling on the surface, deep ones are found in characteristic heaps of earth thrown out of the hole - moleholes. The mole breeds once a year and gives an average of 5 cubs. Although moles feed on earthworms and insects that live in the soil, with a large number they cause serious harm to plants, since, making their passages in the soil, they damage the roots of plants.
COMBAT MEASURES
To scare off moles, it is recommended to fill the passages with a mixture of kerosene and water (1: 200) or put a rag soaked in kerosene into the hole. Of the repellents, the drug crotomet is used at the rate of 10-14 g per hole. Method of application: make a vertical cut in the burrow between two earth emissions. Place 5-7 g (1-2 tablespoons) of the preparation in both ends of the hole. Close the cutout with a board and cover with earth. After 2-3 days, check for the presence of the drug in the burrow. In the event that the preparation is covered with earth, the hole is cut in another place and the operation is repeated. Processing as needed.

When publishing the article "Diseases of Juniper and Their Treatment", materials from the book were used: Treyvas L. Yu. "Atlas Key. Diseases and pests of coniferous plants ”.

Juniper is a beautiful but difficult plant to care for. Often the needles begin to dry and fall off for no apparent reason. So what if the junipers turn yellow? How to deal with this?

Junipers are considered an unpretentious decoration of garden and summer cottages. But in fact, the opposite is true. Evergreen shrub brings a lot of trouble to the owner. And the most important is the yellowing of the needles. In this article, we will look at why junipers turn yellow and how to deal with it.

Juniper turned yellow: reasons

There can be several reasons for the yellowing of a juniper.

Reason # 1. Diseases

One of the most common diseases - shute... It manifests itself in the form of a change in the color of the needles, their withering away and loss. The causative agent is a fungus that attacks mostly weak plants growing in the shade or on too wet soils. You can recognize the problem at the beginning of the summer. It was during this period that ellipsoidal or rounded dark-colored spores appear on the branches. If nothing is done, the needles acquire a yellow-brown hue.

Schütte is a common coniferous disease.

How to fight . Remove affected branches regularly and in a timely manner. Preventive treatment with fungicides will help prevent the appearance of fungus. This should be done in spring and autumn. The following drugs have proven themselves quite well - Quadris, Skor, Strobi, Ridomil Gold, Tilt.

The second most common disease is rust... Caused by basidiomycetes. It manifests itself in the form of yellow-orange growths on the branches. The peculiarity lies in the fact that not only the juniper is affected, but also the neighboring plants - to pass the cycle, the pathogen needs two carriers. First, the spores are carried by the wind to apple, pear, hawthorn or mountain ash. On the leaves, kidney-shaped tubercles and "rusty" spots form, from which spores spill out, which then fall on the juniper. It is noteworthy that the yellow-orange growths are not immediately noticeable - about the second year after the defeat. The first warning signs that cannot be ignored are thickenings and wounds on the branches of the juniper. According to observations, the Cossack and Virginian junipers are prone to rust more than other varieties.

How to fight ... If rust has already appeared, then it is difficult to cure the disease. It is necessary to eliminate the first "owner". Damaged juniper branches are cut. Pruning is done with a sterile pruning shears (treat it with alcohol), in otherwise you can only make the situation worse. Healthy branches are treated with fungicides. Microfertilizers with an immunomodulatory effect will help to reduce the harmfulness of rust.

Shrinking branches- another headache for gardeners and summer residents. It leads not only to the loss of decorativeness by the bush, but also often to death. The causative agents are a large group of fungi that begin their "work" in the spring. The needles turn yellow and begin to fall off. Later, dark small spores appear on the bark and on the branches. It was noted that junipers of the varieties "Skyrocket", "Blue Star" and "Blue Сarpet" are most susceptible to drying out.

How to fight ... Diseased branches and bark particles are removed, the plant is carefully treated with fungicides. Sections and wounds are disinfected with copper sulfate. Preventive treatment is carried out in spring and autumn. Sometimes in the summer.

Nectric and biorellic cancer also causes yellowing of the needles. Most often, the mycelium is located on the bark and the spread of the disease is facilitated by mechanical damage to the "outerwear" of the juniper. The disease progresses rapidly - the branches turn yellow, the bark cracks, longitudinal ulcers appear and the plant begins to die.

How to fight ... If the affected area is large, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to save the juniper. Bad branches are removed, the plant is treated with Vectra, Bayleton, Skor, Tilt preparations. For prevention purposes, the bushes should be sprayed with solutions containing copper (Bordeaux mixture, Oxyhom, copper sulfate, Fitosporin) twice a year (in early spring and autumn).

Experts advise changing the drugs - this significantly increases the effectiveness of the measures taken. In this case, not only the plant is processed, but also the land. If the juniper could not be saved, then the soil in this place is changed, in extreme cases, it is disinfected.

Careful selection of new planting material will help prevent an outbreak of disease. If the health of the bushes raises doubts, it is better not to risk it and treat them with drugs such as Maxim, Quadris, Fitosporin.

Increases the risk of infection in thickened crops and heavy soils with poor air exchange. The optimal time for prevention is April and October.

Reason # 2. Sucking pests

Sometimes on young junipers appears aphid... It delays the development of the plant, causes twisting and yellowing of the branches. Control measures are to prevent the spread of ants, because it is they who "graze" aphids. Washing the branches with soapy water helps. Remember to protect the soil around the juniper to prevent water seeping to the roots. Washing is repeated several times with an interval of 7-10 days. The harmfulness of aphids is reduced by pruning the shoots on which numerous colonies are located.

Juniper Scale no less dangerous. If the needles began to turn yellow and fall off at the beginning of summer, carefully examine the shrub. Perhaps the reason is in round larvae that sit tightly on needles. The shields are very small (up to 1.5 mm) - it is difficult to notice them. The scabbard sucks out the juice from the bark, as a result, the plant changes color and begins to dry out. If pests have appeared recently, then carefully clean them off with a knife. In more advanced cases, they are sprayed with insecticides (Aktara, Fufanon, Aktellik). Belts made of straw or burlap, covered with caterpillar glue, are put on the branches to prevent the spread of larvae.

Spider mite envelops the juniper with a thin cobweb, which is why it crumbles and becomes covered first with yellow and then brown spots. The tick is especially dangerous in dry weather with a lack of moisture in the soil. During one growing season, a female tick gives up to 6 generations, that is, harm from life spider mites essential. Careful care and care of immature bushes will help prevent the appearance of pests. In the summer, spray the branches with a spray bottle. If you find cobwebs, prepare an infusion of dandelion, garlic or colloidal sulfur for spraying. In especially neglected situations, acaricides are used.

Gall midges are not at all a harmless mosquito.

Sucking pests prefer young or weakened plants. This is why it is important to regularly fertilize, loosen the soil and remove weeds. Much attention should be paid to the quality of the planting material - buy seedlings only from trusted suppliers. The soil at the planting site should be light, fertile with a low level of acidity.

Reason number 3. Needle-eating pests

Purple butterflies may appear over junipers in May. If we ignore their fussy fluttering, then in July green caterpillars with a dark red head will settle on the branches. it pine moths, known for their gluttony. In October, the caterpillars suddenly disappear, but there is no need to rejoice. They go underground or hide in fallen needles in order to winter safely in the pupa stage, and then again begin to destroy the juniper. Control measures include spraying shrubs with enteric insecticides and digging up the ground to destroy pupae.

Juniper sawfly can be recognized by the green larvae with a brown head and three dark stripes on the body. They feed on shoots and needles, turning a fluffy green juniper into a “burnt broom”. Dig up the soil regularly, destroy the larvae and spray the plant with Karbofos.

Shoot moth eats away young shoots, which is why the juniper grows poorly, becomes pale and stunted. It should be emphasized that in this case the bush is sprayed not with simple insecticides, but with the addition of mineral oils.

Junipers turned yellow: what to do? This question worries many connoisseurs of evergreen shrubs. Is it possible to increase the effectiveness of ongoing health improvement activities? What do the experts advise?

• to eliminate fungi, use fungicides, insects and their larvae - insecticides, ticks - acaricides;
• process the bushes several times until complete recovery with an interval of 2 weeks;
• spraying should not be carried out in windy weather;
• the optimal time for disinfection is morning or evening of a warm day;
• in case of fungal diseases, cut branches are treated with copper sulfate and covered with oil paint on drying oil;
• the following cocktail has proven itself perfectly: Epin (1 ampoule) + Zircon (1 ampoule) + 5 liters of water. This mixture is abundantly sprayed with yellowed needles. It can be done several times at intervals of several days.

If the needles fall off only on the inner side of the crown and only at the beginning of autumn, then, most likely, nothing terrible happens. This is a natural process of changing the "fur coat", which lasts 2-3 years. After the old needles fall off under it, you will see a new one - young and beautiful.

But if the needles fall out all over the crown, then, perhaps, the reason lies in the excessive gas pollution of the atmosphere. Also yellowing can be caused by acid rain. Unfortunately, this has often happened recently.

In any case, don't expect instant results. The needles take a long time to recover. Sometimes it takes 2-3 years.

Other causes of yellowing of juniper

Not only fungi and pests contribute to the yellowing of needles. For a juniper to please the eye, it is important to arm yourself with the knowledge of proper planting and cultivation.

One of the most common causes of yellowing of needles is drying out of the roots. When planting, put a few small stones at the bottom of the hole, cover them with earth (mix it with peat, sand and clay) and only then start planting junipers. Do not completely cover the root collar with soil. Do not plant shrubs in the open sun - junipers like partial shade. Avoid strong waterlogging and compaction of the soil. In spring and autumn, spray with such bioregulators of growth as "Zircon", "Elin", "Elin-extra".

Too wet soil can also cause the crown to dry out. The roots start to rot and the needles turn yellow. Transplantation into dry soil, removal of decayed and treatment of healthy roots with Kornevin will help. If the juniper grows in a pot in your house, then it is better to take structured soil. Mix crushed pine bark (about 5% of the total volume), the same amount of coarse river sand and cat litter (Barsik Effect, Barsik Standard, Zeolite). The pot must have large drainage holes.

Many people know that immature junipers need to be covered for the winter, but not everyone knows that, for example, this cannot be done with lutrasil, agrotherm or spunbond. These materials not only let the sun's rays through, but also retain moisture, which leads to yellowing of the needles - to frost and sunburn. Young bushes are very sensitive to the spring sun. In March, they must be covered with burlap. It can be used to cover the crown from above, or it can be pulled over the frame by placing such a screen on the sunny side. Adult plants are not afraid of frost, but they can suffer from the spring sun, so it is better to cover them too.

Juniper needles turn yellow with an increase in alkali and acid in the soil. You can check the level of their content using a test that is sold in any specialty store. If you keep dogs, then keep them away from the trees. The urine of animals burns the needles and increases the alkali content in the earth.

The most best treatment- prevention. Take care of the juniper - shelter from the damaging spring sun, loosen the ground, keep the roots from drying out or rotting, and inspect the shrub as often as possible for alarming symptoms. If you do this constantly, then the plant will be healthy, which means it will delight you with the beauty and stunning aroma of needles.

Video: How to properly care for a juniper

When designing plantings near country house, landscape designers or gardeners are guided not only by the beauty and originality of cultures, but also by their compatibility. Especially take into account the proximity of rocks, for prevention.

Planting juniper on, they always pay attention to the proximity of its habitat to:, apple tree, hawthorn and mountain ash. The most common, chronic and intractable juniper disease is rust.

What is rust

Its causative agent is basidial mushroom of the genus Gymnosporangium of the class Basidiomycetes.

This mushroom has two different hosts. First, it develops on, and then spreads over to or an apple tree. Common juniper is the host of the rust that occurs on the apple tree, and juniper Cossack and its other forms - on (red or orange)

The main development cycle of these fungi occurs on juniper bushes. Spores of fungi can develop on juniper everywhere: needles, cones,. Germinating in the spring, for the winter they form a "tomb", forming yellowish, gelatinous outgrowths - pustules... In these places, then swelling, thickening, sagging or wounds are formed. And in the spring, the spores germinate and are carried by the wind over a huge distance - up to 50 kilometers!

How can you protect your juniper from rust?

1. When planting crops, be sure to check their compatibility with other plants in case of illness. In the garden, such plants must be separated by tall ones. It is desirable that the one that goes out into the open space (field, steppe) or to the forest (common juniper grows there!), Where the wind will often dominate, also be fenced with high protective stripes. For this, deciduous trees are used that are dense.

2. If, nevertheless, the apple and pear become neighbors of the juniper, then you will have to work hard. It will be necessary to process both juniper and Rosaceae. The first treatment is carried out only in early spring, long before the beginning of flowering. The second - immediately after flowering, and the third and subsequent (if the disease progresses further) - every 2 weeks.

3. If you notice the first signs of illness, then immediately the affected parts of the juniper and burn them. Remove all leaves and plants under the bush and dig up the ground around them. Pruning tools (or secateurs) process alcohol, and cuts - 1% copper vitriol and cover with a simple or varnish-balm. As a preventive measure, even if your bush is not sick, carry out the spring and autumn juniper "Kuproksat".

You can also treat juniper bushes with special preparations. For this, "Saprol" and "Ditan" are suitable. Spraying with them is carried out in turn, with an interval of 7-8 days.

At the same time, do not forget to spray the pear with the apple tree with fungicides. For this, preparations with sulfur or other fungicides are suitable.

Try not to spray the juniper, watering it only to raise it in the leaves and at the root. In rainy weather, you can cover with foil. After all, mushrooms develop only at high humidity.

Such measures can lead to success and your plant will not die. But if this treatment did not help, then you should think about moving the bush to another place or completely destroy it.

4. To make the juniper more resistant to any diseases, in time fertilize it, using microfertilizers and immunostimulants. This will help them to resist rust. And also often inspect the bush so as not to miss the first signs of infection.

5. It often happens that the plant is completely cured, but a little time will pass and everything repeats, although there is no pear or apple tree on your site, near the juniper bush. In such cases, do not hesitate and ask your neighbors where they grow these. Better yet, ask for a visit and take a good look at their garden. If you find such signs in them, and even the trees are not looked after, then the bush will have to be destroyed. After all, your whole garden can perish in this way.

Remember that if the disease (rust) has entered the chronic stage, then it is impossible to cure the juniper, especially when rosaceous trees or shrubs grow nearby. Therefore, it is better to remove one of the crops from the garden, leaving the one that is more dear to you, or transfer it to another, distant place. In this case, the juniper can be cut off completely, leaving the lower living buds on the bush. This way, you will prevent further spread of the disease and save the juniper.