The bathhouse is not just a place where you can clean yourself. A bathhouse for a Russian person is a kind of club, even, if you like, a sanctuary. But even such a sacred place should not be cold and uncomfortable. A Russian bath should keep warm well, keeping it warm for a long time. And washing in a room that instantly loses temperature is also not very pleasant. That is why good thermal insulation of all rooms in the bath becomes a very important task during its construction. It is necessary to insulate all parts in the bath: both the walls and the ceiling, and especially the floor.

How to insulate the floor in a bath

What materials to use for floor insulation?

Materials for floor insulation

The high humidity and temperature constantly present when using the bath dictate a careful approach to the selection of materials used for thermal insulation of floors. In an ordinary room that does not have such extreme operating conditions, almost any mineral-based insulation can be used. But with thermal insulation of the floor in the bath experienced builders it is recommended to use a heat-insulating material with a cellular structure. The most suitable material that meets all high requirements is foam of all types. It is it that is widely used for warming floors in rooms with high humidity.

Floor insulation scheme with a ladder in a bathhouse for draining out drains

There are several approaches to the question of what material should be used to organize the floor in bath rooms. So, it can be made of concrete, or it can be made of wood. When insulating floors of all types, there are some general rules that we will tell you about.

Scheme of the floor device in the bath

We insulate the wooden floor in the bath

In the event that you have to insulate an existing wooden floor, then you will have to first dismantle the existing flooring.

Removing the old coating

We carry out work according to the following algorithm:

1. We dismantle floorboards and skirting boards. We recommend that you sign the removed elements in order not to get confused during further installation.
2. We check wooden elements. We cut out the damaged areas and replace them with fresh bars of identical dimensions.
3. We build up the lower edges of the lag with smaller bars, creating a support for the rough floor.
4. Using cheap lumber, we form a rough floor. We leave a gap of about a centimeter between the floorboards and the lags.
5. We lay the subfloor from scraps of boards, leaving small gaps between them in order to prevent deformation of the floor from thermal deformation. We lay the trims of the boards loosely on the logs, without fixing them.

Scheme of insulation of a wooden floor in a bath

We insulate the concrete floor

We insulate the concrete floor

Should be done after laying the rough screed. We act according to the following algorithm:

1. We place waterproofing on the rough screed. As such, you can use ordinary durable polyethylene. We spread the film all over the floor, with at least 5 centimeters on the walls, we can then cut off the excess. When using roll material, we make an overlap in the area of ​​10 centimeters, fixing the joints with tape.
2. We lay the heat-insulating material. Ordinary foam can be used as insulation. To fix the foam plates, we form frames from wooden beams, fasten them to the floor with self-tapping screws on dowel plugs.
3. We fill the foam plates and frames with a fixing solution, then place the reinforcing mesh on top. The thickness of the screed over the foam sheets must be at least 2 centimeters.
4. After the reinforcing screed has dried, fill in the rough leveling screed. We use a self-leveling mixture, the total thickness of the screed over the foam should reach 5-8 centimeters. We level the finishing screed with a needle roller, removing air bubbles.

Insulation of the concrete floor in the bath

We create a warm water floor in the bath

Water floor in the bath

A good option for floor insulation in a stationary bath will be a warm water floor. We carry out work according to the following scheme:

1. Preparing the surface for installation work. We eliminate floor defects - chips, protrusions and cracks.
2. We place heat-insulating material over the entire surface, preventing unnecessary energy consumption.
3. We fix the damping tape along the walls of the room, preventing deformation of the floor during thermal expansion.
4. We place it on the floor reinforcing mesh, we lay out the pipe with a liquid heat carrier, avoiding those places where it is not required to heat the floor. The maximum distance from the pipe to the wall should be 10 centimeters.
5. When laying the pipeline system, we leave the pipes a certain degree of freedom, ensuring their safety under thermal deformation.
6. We connect the pipeline system to the heating system using the inlet and outlet manifolds. We carefully fix the pipe joints using couplings and winding.
7. We check the operation of the warm water floor system at the maximum power of the water flow, carefully monitor for possible leaks.
8. With satisfactory test results, we form a cement screed, first rough, and then self-leveling.
9. Place an absorbent layer between the screed and the topcoat, then mount the topcoat.

How to insulate a floor in a bath: 3 methods for insulating a floor with your own hands!

Find out in more detail, How to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands, step by step technology as well as photos and videos!

How to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands

The classic Russian bath has always had something special sacred meaning, was considered as a kind of sanctuary. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the process of its arrangement responsibly so that being in the bath is comfortable.

We can say for sure that without high-quality floor insulation, it will not be possible to achieve such an effect.

Materials for floor insulation in the bath

One of the fundamental requirements for a bath is its ability to keep warm. During construction, you will need to direct all efforts to achieve exactly this result. The surface underfoot - that is, the floor - needs especially careful insulation. To obtain high thermal insulation in this case, you can use foam. It is suitable for use in rooms with high humidity.

If in ordinary living rooms almost every heat-insulating material, including mineral, is suitable for use, then in a bath it is better to dwell on heaters with a cellular structure. Solving the problem of floor insulation in the bath, they tend to different approaches. For example, the floor can be made of wood or concrete. But at the same time, the same rules for ensuring high-quality thermal insulation are still observed.

Thermal insulation of the bath floor with drainage

1. The floorboards are being dismantled. So that later there would be no problems with laying them in place, it is best to sign the floorboards.

2. If damaged bars are found, they are completely replaced.

3. The lags of the floor are built up in such a way that the rough floor gets a reliable base.

4. The rough floor is laid. In this case, a gap of 1 cm should remain between the boards used.

5. The subfloor is mounted. It will be possible to avoid deformation of the boards during expansion if you leave gaps between them.

If the bath was built on an aquifer, the insulation will need to be additionally protected with a vapor barrier. When the groundwater is high, a simple roofing felt will be appropriate to protect the insulation. It is necessary to lay the insulation layer so that there are no cracks in it, and partly it goes into the walls.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor in a bath

The selected heat-insulating material is laid in the free space between the logs. There should be a space of about 2 cm between the insulating layer and the top edge of the planks to ensure adequate ventilation. A crate is laid, the distance between the elements of which is about 40 cm. A waterproofing membrane is placed on top of it. As a result, it separates the sheathing from the thermal insulation.

Floor boards are mounted on top of the formed structure. The pieces of waterproofing material remaining at the edges are trimmed evenly. In order for wood elements to be well protected from moisture, they should be additionally coated with antiseptics. It is better to do this both in the steam room and in the dressing room.

Insulation of the concrete floor in the bath

1. It is necessary to start thermal insulation work after the screed has been prepared.

2. The seized screed is covered with a waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt or polyethylene.

3. Waterproofing should be positioned so that it overlaps the walls by 5 cm or more.

4. When installing roll waterproofing, the canvases are laid with an overlap of 10 cm and tacked with adhesive tape.

5. To create thermal insulation, foam or polystyrene plates are used.

6. A layer of thermal insulation is poured with concrete in a layer of 2 cm and covered with a reinforced mesh.

7. When the mixture is dry, a finishing screed is formed using a self-leveling compound. The thickness of the screed should be between 5 and 8 cm.

8. In order for the finishing tie to be completely flat, it remains to walk along it with a needle roller.

Installation of a warm water floor in a bath

It is also possible to provide comfort in the bath through additional communications. For example, a design called "warm floor" is suitable for this.

1. The rough surface gets rid of all defects.

2. An insulating material is applied to the base base.

3. A damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the walls.

4. Reinforced mesh and pipes are laid, except for those places where there should be no heating.

5. Installation of pipes should be carried out in such a way that, when deformed, they can expand freely.

6. The laid pipeline is connected to the heating system. This requires winding and couplings.

7. The system is checked to exclude the occurrence of leaks.

8. Rough and finishing screeds are poured onto which the floor covering is then laid.

By choosing the appropriate method of floor insulation in the bath, the owner will achieve excellent results. Each of the described methods is relatively simple in the device.

How to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands

How to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands The classic Russian bath has always had some special sacred meaning, it was considered as a kind of sanctuary. Therefore, approach the process of her

How to insulate the floor in a bath

Optimization of the consumption of firewood and energy in the bath necessarily includes thermal insulation of the walls, ceiling and floor insulation. In baths and saunas, the floor is made of concrete or wood, so let's talk about the features of thermal protection of both options.

How to insulate the floor in a bath

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath - the main aspects

1. It is best to install the heat insulator at the construction stage, otherwise you will have to dismantle the finished coating.
2. Only non-toxic and non-flammable materials are selected so that when heated, no particles hazardous to health are released and the insulation itself does not ignite.
3. Optimum insulation thickness: 90-160 mm.

Tools: hammer, construction stapler, trowel, level, drill mixer.

• boards 20-30 mm, 50 mm;
• beams 100 mm;
• cement-sand mortar;
• construction tape;
• vapor barrier or adhesive aluminum tape;
• waterproofing agent;
• reinforcing mesh;
• heat insulator;
• flooring.

For heated floors, the toolkit is supplemented with everything necessary for installing a heating system.

The approximate time from the start of work to commissioning is 1.5 months.

A few words about heaters

The whole complexity of the operation lies in the constantly high humidity, which, combined with high temperatures, has a destructive effect on any floor covering. For some, this moment is an excuse to refuse floor insulation altogether.

Discarding prejudices, we choose non-hygroscopic lightweight materials:

• extruded polystyrene;
• perlite (expanded sand);
• expanded clay;
• slag;
• stone wool slabs;
• glass wool, etc.

We insulate the concrete floor in the bath - instructions

It is customary to deal with the arrangement of the floor after the drainage system is completely ready, there is a roof, door blocks, glazed windows and finishing work.

1. Installation of a concrete slab on the foundation and laying of waterproofing

The water-repellent material is supplied both in rolls and in the form of ready-made or dry mixtures, which are diluted with water or special solvents. It is optimal to use both options: first, put hydroglass-insol on the primed and cleaned surface, and then cover it with 2-3 layers of mastic (rubber-bitumen has proven itself well).

Installing a concrete slab on a foundation and laying waterproofing

2. Laying insulation

Perlite is distinguished by low thermal conductivity, high refractoriness and low weight. It is very important that in the process of work all windows and doors are closed - due to drafts, the material can simply fly apart.

• mix perlite with water in a 2: 1 ratio;
• add cement to the mixture, stir the mass until smooth;
• add 0.5 l of water and additionally pour in a bucket of perlite;
• stir until the water ceases to evolve.

The solution is poured onto concrete slab and spread in a thin layer. Drying time is approximately 7 days. A screed is made on top of the concrete and the floor covering is installed.

The mortar is poured onto a concrete slab and spread in a thin layer

Advice! To reduce dustiness in the room, the perlite is sprinkled with cement and slightly moistened with water. Experts recommend placing an absorbent pad (Kraft paper, for example) under the insulation layer.

Foam plates (expanded polystyrene)

Foam plates (expanded polystyrene)

Advantages: the foam does not absorb water, does not contribute to the decay process, does not become a breeding ground for fungi, does not emit toxic substances and has the lowest thermal conductivity.

The thickness of the boards should be 10-25 cm. As an alternative to the mats, spray-on material can be used. The list of the most popular brands includes:

• Penoplex;
• UrsaXPSNatur-III - heat-sealed surface, corrugated on both sides;
• Ursafoam / Glascofoam - Environmentally friendly yellow polystyrene sheets;
• Natur-III-PZ - pre-heat treated corrugated board;
• Roofmate - blue solid slab;
• Styrodur (strong green slabs from the German company BASF).

Foam insulation technology

1. Prepare the base - compact the soil, cover it with a layer of rubble and sand. Spread the waterproofing film on top.
2. Lay the polystyrene plates around the entire perimeter, glue them with tape or fill the contact points with polyurethane foam.

Lay the foam plates around the entire perimeter, glue them with tape or fill the contact points with polyurethane foam

Important! The more granules are introduced into the solution, the less durable and rigid the floor becomes.

Expanded clay - loose insulation

Expanded clay is porous and lightweight, thanks to which its granules become an excellent basis for floor insulation. In order for the fractions to bond well, it is better to mix granules of different sizes (from 0.16 to 0.40 mm), and you need to buy them in a larger volume than is useful for work - some of them burst during transportation.

Cement-sand mortar and filler (expanded clay) are mixed in approximately 2: 1 ratio. The exact proportion is determined by the brand of cement and the type of granules. The finished mass should resemble a thick dough. The uniform coating of the granules is an indicator of correct mixing.

1. Beacons-slats are installed, then an ordinary concrete screed is poured.
2. The time for complete drying and reaching maximum strength is 30 days. Layer height - 100-150 mm.

3. Installation of the "warm floor" system

Installation of the "warm floor" system

Underfloor heating system perfectly copes with the problem of cold floors in a bath or sauna. But with all the variety of types (cable electric floor, cable on a reinforcing mesh, infrared thermal film, water floor), not everything can be used in such a specific room.

So, the cable system needs 8 hours to fully warm up, and nothing can be placed on top of the thermal film except linoleum, carpet, laminate or parquet - this is impractical.

The most successful solution for a bath is water floor heating of a decking structure:

• pipes can be connected directly to a common boiler and thereby increase energy efficiency;
• operating costs are minimized.

4. Laying floor tiles or wood planks

Laying floor tiles or wood planks

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor: step by step

Wood is a traditional material used for centuries for arranging baths; it retains heat well, releases useful essential oils, and creates a cozy atmosphere. In the dressing room they often meet conifers- pine, fir, larch. In steam rooms, instead of them, they use aspen or linden, which have been treated with special non-toxic compounds.

Instead of a floor slab, like a concrete floor, beams are laid, on top of them there is a cranial beam. A layer of insulation is laid between them. A mandatory requirement is the installation of layers of vapor barrier (usually glassine) around the heat-insulating material.

For non-leaking floors, adhere to the following installation scheme for insulation.

Cranial bars are nailed to the lower parts of the lags, and second-rate slats, adjusted in advance to a size slightly smaller than the distance between the two beams (60 cm), are placed on the cranial bar.

The frequency of fastening the slats depends on the type of insulation. For example, 25 cm between the planks is more than enough to hold lightweight polystyrene foam.

Cranial bars are nailed to the lower parts of the lags

An important point! All sub-floor boards must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

All subfloor boards must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

Beams must be flanged between the beams (the width of the board is 25-50 mm), which prevents shifts, twisting and twisting of the wood, especially if it is still damp. At the edges between the flanging and the wall, an indent remains, which is then filled with insulation.

The first layer of the subfloor is covered with a waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane (Izospan can be used). It should extend onto the wall by 20 cm.The joints of the sheets are connected with a vapor barrier tape, and the protrusions are fixed construction stapler.

A hydro and vapor barrier membrane is laid on the first layer of the subfloor

The second layer of the subfloor is mounted. If you do not need it, you can go directly to the installation of the insulation. For this, the material, if it is in a roll or in the form of slabs, is cut in width equal to the step between the wooden logs + 10 mm. The sheets are positioned exactly in the grooves between the beams so that no gaps or breaks are left.

Another waterproofing layer is spread on top. It overlaps, is attached to the logs with a construction stapler, and the joints are glued with tape.

Another waterproofing layer is spread on top

The space left between the water drainage pipe and the heat insulator is filled with polyurethane foam.

A finishing floor (tongue) is laid, excess vapor barrier is cut off and a plinth is installed. For ventilation and drying of the boards, there should be a 3 cm gap between the subfloor and the final floor. To do this, counter-rails of the appropriate size are nailed onto the beam.

On a note! Some manufacturers of modern building materials offer 2-in-1 solutions: the manufacturer applies a foil layer on one side of the heat insulator. This eliminates the need for additional external waterproofing - just glue the joints with adhesive aluminum tape.

As an additional protection against moisture penetration deep into the floor, OSB (moisture resistant plywood) sheets can be used.

OSB sheets can be used as additional protection against moisture penetration deep into the floor.

Giving preference to one or another insulation option, you need to proceed from the area, the features of the building, temperature regime and technical characteristics of materials. All the described work is easy to do with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the technology and safety rules!

How to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands - step-by-step instruction!

Find out How to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions and descriptions, photo + video. Top Tips on insulation and choice of materials.

For many years, the builders of baths did not pay special attention to floor insulation, because they did not have sufficient knowledge about thermal insulation. The materials used at that time quickly deteriorated, which entailed numerous repairs of the baths - now everything has changed dramatically.

Why is it so important to insulate the floor in the bath

Old bathhouses with leaking floors are still actively used by summer residents and residents of the southern regions. For those who happened to be born in the middle and northern regions, it is better to think about floor insulation. Despite the fact that warm air naturally rises upward, a large part of it is lost when it comes into contact with a cold floor.

A large temperature difference between the upper layers of the steam room and the cold floor in a room intended for taking periodic bath procedures can adversely affect human health. To eliminate heat losses, as well as to speed up the heating of the bath room and create an obstacle to the cold from the outside, it is required to put high-quality insulation for the floor in the bath.

How the floors differ in design

Insulation should be carried out on "dry" floors with wooden or concrete base, this means that they must not leak. Water drainage is carried out by making the floor surface at a slope of 10 ° towards the drain gutter or dirty water drain hole. Thereafter, the wastewater flows into the catchment, and then into the aeration sites or gutters. If everything is done correctly, then the water will not spoil the insulation in any way, and the thermal insulation will last a very long time.

Materials used for insulation

So, everyone can ask themselves the question - "What is the best way to insulate the floor in the bath?" Armed with modern craftsmen and those who want to make the floor insulation in the bath with their own hands, there are both new schemes and new materials. Concrete floor slabs or logs are often used as the basis for the usual buildings of country cottages. In both the first and second cases, the insulation will fit, taking into account the peculiarities of the base. Based on its technical characteristics, the type of insulating material will be selected.

Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) is versatile material, so it can be used to insulate wood and concrete substrates. Nevertheless, foam insulation of the floor in the bath is often carried out on a wooden base. This ultra-light material does not absorb moisture accidentally seeping through the wood. As a result, the bases are lightweight, and the material itself is very easy to process, while waste is minimized.

Glass and mineral wool are most often used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. If you apply them for wooden floors, you will need to install an additional layer of waterproofing after the insulating layer. If this is not done, the insulation will begin to accumulate moisture, which will lead to a deterioration in thermal insulation.

Warming of the floor in the bath with expanded clay is carried out according to the same principle as when using mineral wool. They have similar heat engineering characteristics. If the floor for the bath is wooden, then you will need to install an additional moisture-proof layer. Loose material is not easy to use as insulation on sloped surfaces. Therefore, so that expanded clay does not roll down the floor with a slope of 10 o, it is moistened with a liquid cement mortar (in more detail: ""). Another method: to carry out the pouring of the mixture of expanded clay insulation proposed above, followed by pouring cement screed.

For warming the floors on the logs, a foamy heat insulator Aisinin is used. Another option is to use boiler slag. It is covered with a 30 cm layer, 25 cm of foam concrete on top, and after -10 cm of half pan. The height of the thermal insulation layer is determined based on the climatic conditions of the area in which the bath is being built.

Another good insulation is perlite. This dusty sandy insulation is combined with water and cement before use. It acts as a light interlayer between two layers of concrete screed.

Preparation of perlite insulation

To mix dusty sand, you need to choose a room where all doors and windows can be closed at the time of preparation of the solution.

• The material is mixed in a deep container with water in a 2 to 1 ratio until smooth.
• In the resulting solution, you need to slowly pour cement (grade M300 or higher), in a volume that is half the dimensional of all components. An ordinary bucket can act as a measured one.
• After that, you need to pour in an additional half a bucket of water. Adequate mixing must be followed at each step. At the final stage, another half liter of water is added.

The resulting mortar should be different from conventional plastic mixtures intended for smoothing irregularities and finishing. The output should be a crumbly plastic mixture, which can be covered with a continuous 10 cm layer of the lower layer of concrete screed. The perlite insulating layer hardens after 5-6 days, after which you can start pouring the upper finishing layer from cement mortar... The waterproofing layer and the reinforcing mesh are placed as desired before the finishing leveling layer, they are not mandatory.

And yet, it is important to choose the most suitable insulation for the floor in the bath - which is better - opinions differ. According to numerous reviews of experts and home craftsmen, expanded polystyrene does its best job. It is easier to handle, easier to stack, inexpensive, and the leftovers can always be used for other purposes.

The technique of laying insulation on the floor

Method of warming wooden floors of a bath

It is optimal if the floor insulation in the steam room and other rooms of the bath is carried out during the period of its construction. But provided that the floors were laid with high quality and do not leak, you can perform thermal insulation after. How to insulate the floors in the steam room of a bath?

The procedure is performed in several stages:

• First, you need to remove the finishing layer and fill the cranial bars around the entire perimeter of the room at the bottom of the beams. In the future, the subfloor will be attached to them.
• Unedged boards low quality sawn into pieces in such a way that when they are laid on the bars, there are small gaps between the board and the beams.
• The fixed boards form a subfloor, on which a waterproofing layer is subsequently laid - when working with wood floors this is a required item. The best choice would be a membrane that acts as a vapor barrier. The film is laid so that the entire surface of the subfloor with beams is protected, as well as the walls to a height of 20 cm. The film can be fixed with a construction stapler, and the edges of the insulation sheets must be glued with vapor barrier tape.
• There are two options for further actions - lay another rough floor layer on the vapor barrier and then insulate, or immediately install the insulation.
• From the decision of how to insulate the floor in the steam room of a wooden bath, it will depend on what kind of vapor barrier to put on top under the final flooring. As an option, roofing material can become an alternative to the membrane, the joints of which are meticulously fastened with mastic based on bitumen.
• To isolate the gap around the drain pipe from the insulation layer, polyurethane foam is used.

When all the manipulations with the location of the insulation are completed, you can lay the finishing layer of the wooden floor, remove the remnants of the insulation and close the joints with plinths.

To ventilate the wooden floor, leave a small gap under the finishing layer - about 3-4 cm.

How to insulate a concrete floor in a bath

The concrete floor can be poured either directly onto the ground or onto the concrete slabs below the floors. A waterproofing layer is laid on this rough screed. For these purposes, either a roll coating or 3 layers of coating mastic is used. Alternatively, both of these types of insulation can be combined.

On top of the insulation, foam polystyrene, expanded clay, sheets of mineral wool or other heat-insulating materials of the owner's choice are placed. In this case, it is worth taking into account the technical characteristics of one or another type of insulation in order to correctly calculate the layer thickness and the required amount of material.

Next, reinforcement is performed - that is, a reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation on alabaster-cement or plastic fasteners, into which a layer of cement screed is poured. Subsequent finishing of the concrete floor is made at the request of the owner.

The subtleties of warming individual rooms of the bath

Since the purpose and intensity of use of the bath premises vary, many are wondering what kind of floor insulation is required in the dressing room. Since this is a recreation room, the insulation in it does not need to be supplemented with waterproofing. Basically, water is poured directly onto the floor only in the washing room, where waterproofing is indispensable.

The steam room is used most intensively in the bath, where heat preservation is very important. But whether it is necessary to insulate the floor in the steam room additionally - everyone decides for himself. It is recommended to raise the floor in the steam room above the general level by 10-15 cm, which will make it possible to lay another layer of thermal insulation on the finished floor and put an additional floor on the logs. This approach will reduce heat loss and speed up the heating of the steam room.

Thus, the technique of floor insulation in the bath is briefly outlined by us in this material, so that everyone can roughly imagine the estimated volume and complexity of the work. It is worth noting that when calculating the amount of thermal insulation materials, you need to rely on the weather conditions at the location of the bath.

Bath floors are an important component of the comfort system for the entire bath room. The cold overlap makes the stay in the bath chilly and does not bring bright positive emotions. An improperly designed underfloor heating promises to heat its surface to unacceptable temperatures, sometimes to such that it is just right to install a good granite slab on it and use it for the production of pancakes and lavash. If you are interested in the question of how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse correctly, then today's article is just for you.

In the early days of the bath, floor insulation in the bath was not a priority. There were several reasons for this. In the first, the overwhelming number of bath floors had not a solid, but a pouring structure. Disposal of dirty water took place not through a centralized drainage tank, but chaotically, through the cracks between the floor boards.

Secondly, the main heat losses occurred through the abutment of the roof to the load-bearing walls, thirdly, at that time there was no insulating material that could provide the necessary consumer qualities and operational parameters. The same moss, laid underground, in conditions high humidity, increased temperature and abundance in waste water organisms of pathogenic microflora, would simply rot in a very short period of time. And finally, people at that difficult time were much more tolerant of the low level of comfort than they are now.

At the present time, when the era of simple pouring floors is over and they are extremely rare, except that in summer cottages-temporary huts, the problem of floor insulation should be taken care of seriously. So, why is it necessary to insulate the floors in the bath:

1. Heat exchange takes place through the contact surface of the floor. external environment, which is fraught with heat loss. Yes, they are not large in total, about 15 - 17.5, but in modern conditions, even this figure looks unacceptably large.
2. A person's feet, when moving from a hot room in a steam room to a cooler room in a washing room or dressing room, experience an active effect of the low temperature of the floor unprotected from external influences and this is fraught, at least, with unpleasant sensations, and very often with a banal local temperature shock.
3. An uninsulated floor is susceptible to moisture condensation, and even heating the room itself requires where more heat energy and, therefore, costs.

The choice of material for such work

Bathhouse floor insulation is carried out using a wide range of modern materials, the properties and qualities of which, under certain conditions, can differ significantly from each other.

As you know, the floors of the baths are made either concrete or wooden and subsequently, various methods of finishing or finishing... This, however, does not interfere with formulating a list of the main types of insulation materials used.

Foamed polystyrene universal type

Thermal insulation of floors in a bath with the help of this material has become widespread in the last decade. This fairly tough copolymer with acceptable mechanical strength is excellently processed, can be easily cut with a simple cutting tool and is easy to install with a minimum of non-applicable waste. Due to the presence of closed granules in its array, it is resistant to moisture, therefore it can be successfully used for thermal insulation of plank floors, the joints of which are prone to moisture seepage.

Mineral wool and glass wool

On the contrary, this material is more suitable for such work as insulation of a concrete floor in a bath. The fibrous structure of such a heater, when installed in the construction of wooden floors, requires enhanced measures to carry out complex waterproofing measures, since its hygroscopicity leads to a significant, sometimes up to 70% decrease in the nominal insulating qualities. Basalt wool is somewhat more stable in terms of hygroscopicity, however, and it cannot compete with expanded polystyrene.

Foamed polymer materials

Due to the high coefficient of expansion during polymerization, they perfectly fill joints, cavities, sinuses, which is especially important for complex type-setting structures of wooden floors. Insulation for the floor in a bath of this type has a low specific gravity, does not load much load-bearing elements design, however, unpleasantly surprises at the price, however, quite objective for high-quality raw materials.

Expanded clay

Foamed ceramic pellets obtained from special grades of high temperature fired clay, properly enriched and prepared. Warming the floor in the bath with expanded clay pours out into a rather monotonous and monotonous operation, which consists in filling the space and cavities with an insulator. To give slopes and oriented planes, the expanded clay massif is moistened with cement milk, which keeps individual grains from rolling and subsidence. On top of the insulating layer, a thin sand-cement screed must be applied to secure it.

Perlite

Perlite occupies a somewhat isolated position in the list of insulating materials. Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a bathhouse using this mineral consists in preparing a mixture with high-quality cement and mixing it with clean water. As a result of an active reaction, active gas formation occurs, which leads to the production of a commodity highly porous mass. Due to a number of technological limitations, this type of insulation rarely has a thickness of 100 mm and is most often poured as an intermediate layer between two primary sand-cement screeds.

The technology for using perlite is quite specific and requires compliance with a number of key rules:

• Perlite dust is very mobile and light, therefore it is necessary to work with it in a windproof place;
• 2 parts of perlite are mixed with 1 part of water until the reaction is complete;
• Cement is carefully added to the resulting solution and thoroughly mixed;
• As a result of the intermediate mixing, a crumbly solution should be obtained, which, when a small amount of water is added, by the time the final mixing is completed, should acquire clear signs of plasticity;
• The maturation of the perlite layer lasts 5-6 days, only after which a top screed can be laid on it.

Alternative options for insulation materials

When making floors in the bathhouse with a layer of insulation, you can use polpan, a relatively expensive material, but with high insulating functions. This technological solution is especially relevant when performing work on local insulation of critical places.

Foam concrete has sufficient insulating qualities, which can be used as a structural mass when arranging continuous concrete floors. A layer of about 250 mm should be considered a sufficient thickness.

As an ersatz option, the use of boiler slag can be advised. The technology and the principle of its use are comparable to carrying out expanded clay backfill. However, it should be remembered that thermal insulation properties, evenness of fractions and mechanical strength boiler slag is lower than that of expanded clay. A slag layer of at least 300 - 320 mm should be considered sufficient for typical operating conditions.

Schemes and technology of insulation of various types of bath floors

Having dealt with the question of how to insulate the floors in the bath, we proceed directly to technological process... The principle of its implementation is simple. Insulation fills the space between the subfloor and the final floor in wooden structures, and between the base layer of concrete and the leveling screed in concrete.

Important! A prerequisite for the long-term operation of the insulation, without losing its original qualities, should be considered the use of waterproofing films - as a substrate and covering.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor

The insulated floor in the bathhouse, which is based on a wooden structure, assembled on the basis of load-bearing logs, a rough and clean non-leaking floor, is equipped as follows:

1. The lower edge of the supporting main beams is outlined with a support bar on which the sub-floor boards will rest.
2. The subfloor is made from a low-grade non-grooved board, which is cut to the required size. The prepared boards are laid on a support beam and properly secured.
3. A waterproofing film is laid on the formed bed, so that its canvas captures the walls adjacent to the floor at a distance of 200 - 250 mm.
4. Thermal insulation of the wooden floor in the bath is carried out either directly on the waterproofing layer, or on the second layer of the subfloor, which is fixed with a board placed perpendicular to the first layer. For wooden floors, it is essential to use insulating materials with a closed capsule, which guarantees a low level of water absorption by the material. When installing a waterproofing film, it is important to protect the joints of adjacent canvases, which are overlapped with tapes of a similar material.
5. Spaces around communication channels, drain pipes and other elements is filled with polyurethane foam and covered with a waterproof mastic based on modified bitumen.
6. In the last turn, the elements of the finished floor are laid and fixed.

Insulation of a concrete floor

Work of this nature is carried out in the following order:

1. Preceding the stage of warming waterproofing works, which are produced on the base layer of concrete, laid on the ground using a bitumen coating, applied cyclically for the possibility of polymerization in 3 layers. The combined method should be considered rational, when there are two layers of coating, and a layer of roofing material is laid between them.
2. This is followed by direct installation, laying or backfilling of a layer of insulating material, the thickness and methodology of which depends on the specific climatic conditions and design features of the structure.
3. Materials having high rates hygroscopicity is covered with a film of a waterproofing membrane.
4. Above the layer of insulation, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on special plastic spacers.
5. The final stage in solving the problem of how to insulate the concrete floor in the bath with your own hands should be considered the moment of formation of the finishing screed.

To facilitate heat engineering calculations, we present a table that is valid for use in winter temperatures not exceeding - 21 degrees Celsius:

The specified parameters can be adjusted for specific climatic conditions using correction factors.

The specifics of floor insulation in various functional areas of the bath

How to make the floor in the bath warm, in all without exception it functional areas, from the steam room to the rest room? There is only one answer - to insulate it according to all the rules of building art.

However, zones require different approaches to floor insulation, both functionality and healthy cost savings are appropriate.

Pair department

What kind of insulation is better for the floor in the bath, for its steam room? Naturally resistant to high temperatures and low hygroscopicity. In this regard, extruded polystyrene is good, but it is not entirely clear whether domestic products meet European sanitary requirements? People, especially anxious about the environmental issues of their own baths, generally refuse polymer materials in the steam room and focus on wood. A power lathing from a bar is laid on the existing finishing floor, on which another finishing floor is laid. A kind of fixed flooring.

Obviously, in this way the floor level in the steam room rises relative to adjacent rooms by about 120 - 150 mm. In this case, the internal volume of the paired compartment decreases, which has a positive effect on the rate of its warming up and the possibility of keeping heat. Let's face it, the option is quite controversial. However, with a sufficient amount of quality commodity board, it is quite viable.

Washing department

How to insulate floors in a bathhouse, in its washing section, where the humidity is always close to 100%, and the water on the floor is quite an ordinary phenomenon? Exclusively with the use of reinforced measures for waterproofing the insulation layer. In this regard, a layer of mineral insulation between two layers of cement-sand screed works well, moreover, upper layer covered with a layer of glue on which ceramic tiles are laid. Quite traditional classic solution, proven by decades of practical use.

Rest room and dressing room

Do I need to insulate the floor in the bathhouse in these rooms? To improve the energy efficiency of the entire bath is definitely needed. Some practicing masters advise to do with a slightly lighter version. That is, use more budgetary materials for insulation and abandon waterproofing work.

Considering that the humidity regime in these rooms is rather low, this approach certainly has a rational grain. However, be sure to consider the following. Inexpensive heaters, as a rule, are either glass wool or mineral wool. Both have a fibrous structure and are quite hygroscopic. Under a number of circumstances, condensation may form in the underground space, which, falling on the fibers of the insulation, will provoke a deterioration in the insulating qualities.

The cost of a waterproofing membrane is quite low, and the effect of its use is tangible. Therefore, when deciding how to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands, and at the same time do it efficiently and thoroughly, you should definitely spend a certain number of man-hours laying the membrane. The resulting effect will reliably insure the insulation layer from insidious condensation.

Conclusion

In the modern world, there is a constant struggle for economy. Drivers save on gasoline, employers save on wages, a moderately dear and excessively expensive government is struggling to save on pensions and benefits. A zealous bath attendant should also succumb to the general trend and save money, but naturally, not like statesmen, but wisely. For example, on the cost of heating your own bathhouse.

However, it is impossible to get the expected effect without solving the question of how to insulate the floor in the bath. Floors continue to be the Achilles' heel in saving heating for most baths, both newly built and long-term ones. And if earlier, to solve this incident, there were not enough worthy building materials, then today, with an abundance of materials, there is not enough worthy information. The editors of the site hope that with this article we have filled this significant and egregious gap.

Various materials are used for laying the floor in the bath, including wooden boards and bulk earth. To understand how to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands, it is worth knowing a few nuances. So, recently, inexpensive wooden flooring has become popular.

Types of flooring materials

But it has one significant drawback - the tree, even the most expensive species, is exposed to hot water and a couple. Over time, it begins to deteriorate and deteriorate. Another option is a clay floor. It is considered environmentally friendly, but when water gets on it, it begins to swell and crack. Liquefied soap gets into the cracks, which does not dry out and becomes a source of an unpleasant odor.

Concrete

Due to such shortcomings, in recent years, concrete pavements have been used more often, which can withstand moisture and high temperatures. The main advantage of the concrete floor is that it is easy to maintain. Most often, such floors are poured in the steam room.

A wooden floor is perfect for a dressing room, however, here it also needs insulation - with decent thermal insulation, you can save a lot on fuel and simply increase comfort. As for comfort: heating the feet in the steam room, going out on the cold floor is not only unpleasant, but not always good for health. Working with floors begins after the installation of the drainage system, roofing, windows, door blocks, as well as after the completion of all finishing work.

Types of heaters

Insulation of the concrete floor in the steam room is carried out using perlite, glass wool or expanded clay. Such a layer is laid between the concrete layers. An alternative option to mineral wool and bulk materials is expanded polystyrene 10-25 cm thick or sprayed material.

Penoplex

The advantages of penoplex are its lightness, thermal insulation, and efficiency. in the bath requires compliance with two rules:

• perfectly flat base;
• it is impossible to place foam plates close to the oven or pipes that heat up to 75 ° C.

Minvata

Mineral wool as a heater for a bath floor has the following positive characteristics:

• low thermal conductivity and resistance to physical stress;
• fire resistance, which is especially important for a bath;
• long service life due to non-susceptibility to rot and mildew, and economical.

It is unacceptable to use insulation in the bath in the form synthetic materials- linoleum and laminate.

Additional materials

In order for the insulation to perform its functions, it must remain dry, for which waterproofing is used. As a vapor barrier, glassine is often used - cardboard impregnated with petroleum bitumen, polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick, and roofing material.

Hydro-barrier

The modern "hydro-barrier" is popular - a polyethylene film reinforced with nylon thread. The vapor barrier is spread on the floor between the beams and reinforced with a stapler or nailed. Insulation is laid on this layer. Also, rubber-bitumen mastic is used as waterproofing.

Before applying mastic to concrete, you need to clean the surface of debris and paint, level all the bumps and pits. The mastic is applied in 2-3 layers, a roll-up waterproofing agent (film, for example) is laid on top. Foil is often used for vapor barrier, which is glued at the joints with construction tape. It is also worth trying fogoizol - a fiberglass-based insulator.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Thermal insulation mineral wool can be carried out on three types of floor surfaces - on the ground, on logs and on a concrete surface. If the bath is just being built, then you can resort to compacted soil.

On the ground

So, the floor covering is laid with support on logs installed on compacted soil in the form of an embankment of gravel and slag. After the embankment of gravel, a layer of expanded clay and a waterproofing film between the logs are laid. Mats or mineral wool slabs are placed directly on the entire structure so that there are no gaps between them. Mineral wool is sheathed with a vapor barrier film, after which a reinforced screed or sub-floor is laid.

On bricks

There is a second option - soil with brick posts, which are needed for fixing the same lags. The sequence of insulation is as follows:

• expanded clay is filled up to the upper edge of the posts;
• along the length of the lag, beams are filled, on which the flooring of wood is attached;
• waterproofing and mineral wool are laid on the logs;
• overlap with a vapor barrier, gluing the joints with construction tape.

On concrete

In the case of a concrete surface, the object of insulation is the floor slab:

• a vapor barrier film is laid on the plate with the foil side;
• mats or mineral wool slabs are placed on the film - evenly and without gaps;
• over the mineral wool, a layer of vapor barrier is laid with the foil side up.

Thermal insulation with a mixture

The most effective way to insulate a concrete floor is to lay two layers of concrete mixed with insulation such as expanded clay, glass wool and perlite. Perlite is an expanded sand that is light in weight and has low thermal conductivity.

Stage 1

In the case of a concrete floor, first the foundation is poured onto which the concrete slab is placed. The third layer is waterproofing and insulation, which are tightened with a reinforcing mesh. When working with perlite, you need to close the room, since this material is capable of scattering from a draft.

The first stage is mixing perlite with water, adding cement to this mass. After harvesting, add another bucket of perlite and half a liter of water to the resulting mixture and stir well. This mass is spread on a concrete slab and left to dry for a week, after which they begin to lay the second layer. Such a DIY floor will last for many years.

Stage 2

Ceramic tiles are laid on top of the floor. Such a tiled floor for a bath is not always convenient - slippery, usually cold - so it is covered with a wooden grate. If desired, this grid can be removed and dried, and during operation it allows you to maintain balance on a wet field.

Regulation systems

Heating a stone floor often requires connection to a "warm floor" system with three options - the use of a resistive cable, water heat pump or infrared system. The resistive cable is laid with a snake on the concrete-cement screed, and the infrared floor is rolled out on the stitch in strips, after which the tiles are glued to it. Warm water floor is based on thermoregulation and supply warm water into the contours of the floor. Temperature regulators are located in the dressing room.

Thermal insulation with expanded clay

Floor insulation on concrete can be carried out using expanded clay:

• a layer of concrete is laid and left to solidify;
• a layer of expanded clay 8-10 cm is poured onto the hardened concrete;
• a second layer of concrete is poured onto expanded clay, which must be reinforced (you can use a simple mesh-netting);
• a cement-sand screed is applied on top;
• the last aesthetic layer is floor tiles.

Foam insulation

The use of foam as insulation is very effective: this material does not absorb moisture, and retains its properties for a long time. It suits well for brick baths absorbing moisture from the outside and from the ground. Foam plates are lightweight, which does not weigh down the floor and foundation. When handling foam, virtually waste is generated, which reduces cost.

Stages of work

The bath takes place in several stages:

• the foundation is laid on which the floor slab is installed;
• the floor is waterproofed;
• foam plates are laid, and a screed is laid on top;
• the screed is coated with glue with a warm floor effect, and ceramic tiles are laid on top.

The thickness of the insulating layer is 15 cm, but for weak it is recommended to lay materials with a thickness of 25 cm.

Thermal insulation of wood floor

Wood is preferred not only because of its cheapness, but also because of the heat it can store, unlike concrete. For the bath, materials such as spruce, pine or fir are suitable and the species of linden, poplar or aspen, which give resin, are not recommended. The boards are covered with a special solution that prevents the wood from rotting - so they will last ten years without requiring replacement.

Wooden materials for laying the floor in the steam room should be well dried, and for the dressing room - also impregnated with an antiseptic to avoid rotting and damage by fungus. The wooden floor in the bath has the following design - beams are placed on the poured concrete, and on top of them, respectively, a wooden beam.

The insulation goes over the sub-floor. Expanded clay, fiberglass and mineral wool, sand and slag can be used as insulation for a wooden bath floor.

Pile structures for foundation

Often the bathhouse is built on piles, which are a supporting structure and are used for installation under a log house. This is considered the most simple form foundation. When insulating a bathhouse on piles, there is one significant advantage - reliable waterproofing the foundation itself by raising it above the ground. Most often, piles are long metal pipes with blades that cut the ground.

After the foundation is built on piles, you need to lay a wooden covering, which in itself will keep warm in the bath. However, wooden flooring alone is not enough - it is necessary to make a base from a branch pipe that will connect all the screw piles, and then waterproof with a film.

Mineral wool tiles can be used as insulation between the foil and the boards. External thermal insulation carried out along the contour of the base using fasteners. After the completion of the work, you can start finishing the facade.

• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation

Often people do not pay attention to the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside, paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screw gun;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• clean paper;
• masking tape;
• anti-corrosion compound;
• building level;
• facade panels;

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Floor insulation scheme in the bath.

Thermal insulation scheme for the bath outside.

Do-it-yourself steam room insulation: step-by-step instructions (video and photo)

Do-it-yourself warming of the steam room is quite simple. You just need to read the step-by-step instructions and prepare everything you need to work.

Insulating the steam room from the inside step by step instructions

Thermal insulation of the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, in otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of this room can be called high-quality if the insulation work is done with the ceiling, floor and walls.

The steam room must be supported heat... At the same time, heat loss must be minimized, and insulating the steam room from the inside will help to achieve the required level of thermal protection. When erecting a bath building, you should equip this room in accordance with all the rules.

The better the heat protection of the steam room is, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and also the longer steam can be stored in it, which has a beneficial effect on the human body. Regardless of the building material of the bath, the process of warming certainly consists of thermal insulation of the ceiling, flooring and walls.

Materials used in the arrangement of steam rooms

To produce internal insulation steam rooms, in the old days people used exclusively environmentally friendly materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to the decay process.

Modern materials meet many requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• well tolerated high humidity air;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to insulate the steam room from the inside, use the following building materials:

• wooden slats (for arranging the lathing);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• concrete mortar;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before insulating the steam room in the bath from the inside, you should prepare the tools:

For the interior lining of the steam room, wooden slats, boards or lining are most often chosen, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building. It is the tree that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Low density hardwoods such as alder, maple, linden and aspen are ideal. As for conifers, at high temperatures, their wood will begin to release resin.

Insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside

Correctly executed insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro and heat insulation. Special attention should be given to the arrangement of the first of them, since it must protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. In the event of its penetration into the insulation, this material can get wet and lose all its properties.

Most often, the vapor barrier is equipped with the use of aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be penoizol (the material is shown in the photo). At the same time, experts do not recommend using such well-known vapor insulators as roofing material, polyethylene, glassine when cladding a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins that are dangerous to human health.

In turn, the foil does not allow the insulation to get wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which the heat will be kept inside the room for a long time.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the insulation material from moisture. The fact is that a poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions of high humidity, namely, such air in a steam room, can provoke the onset of the decay process. The appearance of mold and mildew on the walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and the health of people.

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the canvases must be sealed with tape in order to prevent the penetration of steam and condensate into the insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are mounted using a construction stapler.

The next layer when creating thermal protection for a steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is done using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above-mentioned heaters is an environmentally friendly natural product. But mineral wool is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool, everyone needs possible ways ensure that moist air does not penetrate, therefore this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films.

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore it can be used to insulate the steam room from the inside. When the steam room is insulated from the inside, the step-by-step instructions suggest that work should be started by fixing a wooden crate to the walls, to which the insulation is then mounted.

Heat protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat loss in the steam room occurs due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since the streams of warm air always rise upward. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the side of the room, but also from the side of the attic.

The thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the steam room is performed in the same way as it is done with the walls. First of all, a wooden crate is fixed. Then a heat-insulating material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. From above it is covered with a vapor barrier, and an external finishing layer is already mounted on it - most often a lining.

As for the ceiling from the side of the attic, it can be additionally insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. For fire safety, special mastics are used near the chimney.

Currently, various floor coverings are installed in steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with expanded polystyrene. This material is distinguished by high mechanical strength, rather low thermal conductivity, and besides, when it gets into a humid environment, it does not change its qualities.

When it is used to insulate the steam room from the inside - step by step work as follows:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on a prepared flat base, using a special film, on which expanded polystyrene plates are placed tightly to one another.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase the service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the expanded polystyrene and a concrete solution is poured. When performing work, one must not forget about arranging a slight slope to ensure the drainage of water.
3. After the final hardening of the concrete, which usually takes about a month, you can start laying the finishing floor surface. Laying ceramic tiles is a good option.

It is also possible to insulate the floor of the steam room using such a natural material as perlite, which is sand expanded by a special method. To create insulation, take 2 parts of perlite and part of water, mix and combine with cement. The whole mass is thoroughly mixed.

The base of the floor of the steam room is poured with a concrete screed, on top of which an insulating mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then the screed is made again and the work is completed with a finishing floor covering from a finishing material.

Sometimes in the steam room, wooden gratings are placed on a high-quality concrete, solid and reliable floor, which should be periodically dried during operation in order to avoid rotting and quick deterioration.

How to insulate a steam room?

• What will be required to carry out the work?
• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation
• Stage 4: insulation in the steam room outside

Often people do not pay attention to the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside. paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

At the same time, it is necessary to insulate the steam room with high quality, performing all the work in stages. Below is a step-by-step instruction. She will help you in this not easy, but so important matter.

What will be required to carry out the work?

The first step is to prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed to insulate the steam room. Here is a list of them:

• roll heat-insulating material;
• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screw gun;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• clean paper;
• masking tape;
• wood material for cladding (linden, aspen);
• anti-corrosion compound;
• building level;
• front panels;
• water-repellent varnish for wood.

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the steam room.

The first step is to insulate the steam room for the ceiling. First you need to cover it with roll paper, it is important that its joints are overlapped (from 10 to 15 cm). After that, it must be strengthened, otherwise deformation will occur during further work. To do this, you need to take the blocks (size 5x5 cm) and nail them to the roll of thermal insulation material.

It is important to create a monolithic coating here so that seams with cracks do not form, otherwise the tightness of the waterproofing will be broken.

As a result, steam will penetrate into the rolled thermal insulation material, which will lead to its deformation and deterioration of its operational characteristics.

The scheme of the ceiling device in the steam room.

Now you need to fix the foil with additional blocks. This will prevent it from peeling off, and the finished lathing will allow you to quickly lay the finishing material. The role of it should be wood. The use of non-sustainable materials here is simply unacceptable. After all, you will inhale the harmful substances that they emit while taking water procedures in the bath. As a result, instead of improving your health, you will, on the contrary, worsen it. It is great if you use linden or aspen for cladding the ceiling. These materials release special resins that heal the body and improve the atmosphere in the bath, as a pleasant smell is spread.

You can fix the finishing material on nails, be sure to pre-treat them with an anti-corrosion compound. The wood itself must be coated with a water-repellent varnish. It is best to do this before it is fixed to the ceiling. After all, then you can process it from all sides at once, which will extend its service life.

With the help of boards, you need to create an even coating. To eliminate the occurrence of distortion, be sure to use a building level. In addition, for finishing, choose only those boards that have the same thickness, otherwise differences in height in the finished coating cannot be avoided.

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Do not assume that only the ceiling needs to be insulated. The walls also need additional finishing with insulating materials. Therefore, after completing the work with the ceiling, you will need to go to them. It is also necessary to start wall insulation with laying out roll material. It must then be nailed down with a wooden frame, on which foil is immediately lined. But here it is necessary to take it with a thickness of 65-70 mm. Indeed, much more heat goes through the walls than through the ceiling. Therefore, the use of a thinner material is not permissible here. Spread it with an overlap, and glue all joints several times with masking tape. Then it will be possible to make the surface of the walls as tight as possible. As a result, the steam room will be as warm as possible.

After that, a wooden frame is installed on the foil fixed on the surface of the walls. And already the finishing material is mounted on it. It is not necessary to use boards here. you can choose clapboard for the walls. By the way, it can also be used to decorate the ceiling, but then the insulation in the steam room will be a pretty penny, but if you have allocated a significant budget for this, then feel free to opt for this material. The aesthetic and performance properties will not disappoint you. The wall decoration will turn out to be great and will delight every time you take water procedures.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Floor insulation scheme in the bath.

Now you can insulate the floor in the steam room. Here work is carried out according to a slightly different scheme. The first step is to make waterproofing. It is necessary so that mold, fungus and rotting do not appear inside the floor. This layer will protect the floor from condensation. To create it, you will need to use plastic wrap. It is laid out on the entire surface of the floor. If seams are present, make large seams and glue them with masking tape.

Next, you need to create another layer on top of the film. It must be laid out from clean solid paper. It is necessary so that no harmful substances are released from the subfloor. In addition, such a layer will minimize the loss of hot air. You will definitely need to fix a wooden frame of a small width on it. And on the frame you need to lay out and fix the mineral wool slabs with self-tapping screws.

Then the following material is laid out on the surface of the floor: foam. It needs to be fastened on top of cotton wool on small carnations. After that, it will be necessary to cover it with foil, and put another plastic wrap on it. So many layers must be created in order to minimize heat leakage through the floor, which occurs in large quantities through it. As a result, the insulation will turn out to be of very high quality.

And the last thing that needs to be done is to create another frame on the floor surface. It should be thicker than the previous one. It is required for subsequent finishing. Indeed, boards will need to be laid out on the floor surface. Pre-treat them with a water-repellent varnish.

Stage 4: insulation in the steam room outside

If your bathhouse is wooden, then it is imperative to insulate it from the outside. After all, a sealed floor, walls and ceiling in this case will not be enough. Therefore, here you need to create a crate outside the bath, on which slabs of mineral wool should be laid. They need to be fixed with screws or nails. Then a plastic wrap is lined. Next, the front panels are laid on it. All of them must be varnished. This will protect them from adverse environmental factors.

Warming in a steam bath consists of these stages. As it becomes clear, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work here. It is not enough to insulate only the surface of the walls and floor, you also need to not forget about the ceiling and outer skin... This is the only way to do quality work. Its result will not disappoint you. And since all instructions are presented in accessible form and is step by step, then using it you can do everything yourself.

The main thing is to prepare everything in advance. necessary tools and materials. We wish you good luck with insulating the steam room!

How to insulate a steam room in a bath with your own hands

Foreword... In Russia, since ancient times, baths were built from log cabins, today, along with this traditional material, timber, foam block, expanded clay and others are used modern materials... Thermal insulation of the steam room will solve the problem of rapid heat loss and the heat from the steam room will not go away so quickly.

How to properly insulate a steam room in a wooden bath? The thermal insulation of the dressing room and the steam room will be of high quality if the work touches all three planes of the steam room - the floor, walls and ceiling. Most of the heat escapes through the ceiling of the bath, but the rest of the surfaces should not be ignored, including the door to the bath. Consider how to properly insulate a steam room in a bath.

Do I need to insulate the steam room in the bath

Photo. Do-it-yourself steam room insulation

Despite the low thermal conductivity of modern and traditional materials, any steam room needs high-quality insulation. Especially when it comes to internal thermal insulation of structures in the steam room - walls, floor and ceiling. Thermal insulation of the steam room is a very responsible matter; during the work, you should strictly follow the instructions of the manufacturers and take into account other nuances.

For example, not all heat and vapor barrier materials can be used for finishing the floor and ceiling in a bath. Many materials do not withstand moisture, and if you use roofing material or glassine in this room, then visiting the steam room can spoil the unpleasant odors from these materials. The choice of thermal insulation is carried out depending on the material from which the bath was built.

How to insulate a steam room in a bath from the inside

The most common materials for the construction of bath walls are logs, beams, foam concrete, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete. Compared with natural wood, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is higher, which means that the thermal insulation of the steam room is simply necessary. But, before considering the technology of work, you should figure out how and how to insulate a steam room in a bath from a bar with your own hands.

If basalt wool was chosen as thermal insulation, then a high-quality vapor barrier of mineral wool should be made, since this material absorbs moisture. The most balanced finishing solution wet rooms- this is penoplex or foil-clad penofol. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for self-insulation of strip foundations and blind areas of a private house.

For owners of baths from blocks, there is no question whether or not the room needs to be insulated from the inside. It is important to learn how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse from blocks on your own. Thermal insulation technology is divided into three main stages: arrangement and insulation of walls, floors, and the ceiling of the steam room of a bathhouse made of bricks. All work can be done on your own and inexpensively.

How to insulate the walls of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of walls in a steam room made of logs

Thermal insulation of log walls in the steam room from the inside is a layered "cake" of vapor barrier, heat-insulating and waterproofing layer. Vapor barrier film from the side of the warm room protects the mineral wool from moisture and steam, in addition, it additionally creates the effect of a "thermos" in the steam room and is a natural reflector of heat.

Rolled waterproofing prevents moisture from entering the walls from a log or timber, protects the structure from condensation and the formation of fungus and prevents the process of rotting of the structure. To do this, use plastic wrap, expanded polyethylene or foil. The waterproofing film is placed between the thermal insulation layer and the walls in a steam room made of blocks or wood.

The insulation layer itself is laid between the guides fixed to the wall. When installing the frame, pay attention that the distance between the guides should be 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab so that the basalt slab fits snugly into the frame. If you use slab thermal insulation, then all gaps should be thoroughly foamed.

How to insulate the ceiling of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

If many neglect the thermal insulation of the walls, then it is simply necessary to do the insulation of the ceiling in the steam room with your own hands in any bath. Since this part of any building is the most vulnerable in terms of heat loss. Hot air leaves the room through the ceiling ceiling of the steam room in a short time.

For thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, they used to use inexpensive foot materials - sawdust mixed with ordinary earth or expanded clay. Loose thermal insulation covered the ceiling boards above the steam room, thereby significantly reducing the heat loss of the room. These "old-fashioned" methods, even with the arrival of new materials, have not lost their relevance to this day.

The ideal option for finishing the ceiling in the steam room is the thermal insulation of this structure from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. To do this, use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where the chimney pipe comes out of the ceiling, you should use a non-combustible insulation - expanded clay or Minvata Rocklight. Let's consider further how to insulate the floor in a steam room.

How to insulate the floor of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the floor in the steam room with penoplex

Consider a more common option for floor insulation in a steam room - using foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex extrusion meets all the necessary requirements for the thermal insulation of wet rooms. This material does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of rodents, but the insulation should be laid only on a flat base.

Most often, the floor in the bath is insulated under the screed. For this, a waterproofing film is laid on the ground to protect it from groundwater, then it is laid slab insulation... Gaps and gaps between the plates should be sealed with polyurethane foam. At the end, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is made. For waterproofing concrete, use a penetrating composition of penetron or water glass.

For finishing the floor in the steam room, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used. You can also lay the wood floor on logs to make your feet feel more pleasant and warm.

How to insulate a steam room

Without a good steam room, the bath loses its meaning of existence. During the construction of the baths, special attention is paid to this room. The main task of the steam room is to store hot air and steam for a long time, to ensure the quality of bath procedures at the highest level. And the main job of the builders is to insulate the steam room in the bath in such a way as to exclude long heating and rapid cooling, to increase the concentration of steam.

Poorly performed thermal insulation work, the use of low-quality materials will inevitably lead to the appearance of dampness, mold, rotting of wooden structures. This applies to all surfaces of the steam room: floor, walls, ceiling. It is very important to scrupulously and step by step carry out the work on insulating the steam room from the inside, step by step instructions will help you to correctly navigate in the sequence of actions and the choice of materials.

The choice of insulation

The steam room is a specific room, therefore, the choice of heat-insulating materials for walls, ceiling and floor should be approached responsibly. Insulation for the steam room should be moisture resistant, not afraid of significant temperatures, and not emit toxic substances. Most of all, mineral wool is suitable for these definitions, or rather its type - stone or basalt wool. It is also produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses and dimensions. The material is easy to cut with a regular construction knife, so stone wool slabs are very easy to adjust to required sizes... For arranging the floor and ceiling from the outside, bulk insulation is used - expanded clay or expanded perlite.

Foil-clad material is the most suitable as vapor and waterproofing for steam rooms. It is available on a foam base or on kraft paper. You can use any of them, but in the case of warming the steam room from the inside, preference is usually given to the second option.

The procedure for performing insulation procedures

The process of insulating the steam room in the bath goes from top to bottom. That is, work begins from the ceiling, then the walls and, last of all, the floor. It will not be superfluous to remind you that before starting insulation work, you should clean the wooden surfaces from dust, signs of fungal manifestations. It is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and a fire retardant, since it is possible to insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside with high quality and efficiency only on a well-prepared basis.

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation is most conveniently done from the attic side. Ideally, do it from both sides, because the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable parts of any building, especially the baths. It is through this structure that the largest share of heat loss from the inside occurs. So, from above:

• a layer of a rolled vapor barrier is attached to the rough ceiling, tightly closing all joints and overlap on the pediment and rafters;
• a layer of expanded clay or foamed perlite is poured, leveled;
• in the places of contact of the thermal insulation with the chimney, they are treated with fire retardant mastics.

Thermal insulation of a steam room in a wooden bath from the inside on the ceiling is as follows. If the ceiling structure below has a smooth surface, then a frame is built on it. In the case of ribs, this is not necessary. The first layer of the thermal insulation cake is a vapor barrier membrane, which is attached to the base, observing the configuration of the ribbed surface. Then, stone wool slabs are placed as tightly as possible between the beams and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The next stage of warming the steam room, its upper part, is the device of a protective layer of foil material. Joints between separate sheets close up with aluminum foil tape. Particular attention must be paid to the places where the ceiling meets the walls in order to prevent the slightest possibility of the appearance of "cold bridges". If necessary, use polyurethane foam.

Baths are built not only from wood, there are options for brick buildings. In such buildings, the process of performing thermal insulation works looks somewhat different. Thermal insulation of a steam room in a brick bath begins at the stage of construction of the roof structure. Supporting ceiling beams to be embedded in brick walls, before laying, they are wrapped with two or three layers of glassine or roofing material. The nests for them are made a little wider than the beams themselves, the free space is filled with polyurethane foam or mortar. Outside, the recesses are covered with masonry. Further, the installation of the ceiling structure is carried out, and the insulation is performed in the same way as in a log house.

Thermal insulation of walls

Warming of the wall surfaces of a brick bath begins with the application of a waterproofing layer on them. Most often used roll materials or bitumen-free mastics. Because the specific smell of this material, when heated, can penetrate into the room and spoil the positive impression of visiting the steam room. Further, the process of producing thermal insulation works for walls made of brick and wood is the same and is performed in the following order:

• vertically spaced bars are stuffed on the walls with a step equal to the width of the stone wool slabs;
• using a construction stapler, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, carefully wrapping each beam with it;
• insulating material is tightly placed between the bars in one or two layers, depending on the thickness of the plates; stone wool it is a little springy, therefore it holds well by itself and does not require additional fastening;
• the upper vapor barrier layer is made of aluminum foil on kraft paper, you can use foil-based material on a foam basis, but the first option works more reliably in humid conditions.

The foil is fastened end-to-end, and the seams are closed with a special protective tape on an adhesive basis. All work must be done carefully and responsibly, but the sealing of the corners and joints between the walls and the ceiling surface requires special care.

Floor insulation

It is no less important to make warm floors in the steam room than to insulate the walls and ceiling with high quality. You can use two options: using board materials or bulk materials. However, in both cases, it is necessary to start with surface leveling and a rough preparation device. And here, too, there can be two versions: with a drain and without it. By and large, water is not used in the steam room, so there is no need to arrange a drain hole there. But some developers do it. Then, when arranging a floor cake, starting from the preparatory layer, slopes are made towards the drain. Otherwise, the floor must be strictly horizontal. Now about the floor structure itself:

1. Warming with expanded polystyrene plates. According to the rough preparation, a layer of waterproofing is laid with a slight overlap on the walls. Then the insulation plates are laid in one or two rows, depending on the thickness. The next step is the laying of the reinforcing mesh and then the screed with cement-sand mortar.
2. For insulation with bulk materials, expanded clay or perlite is used. In the beginning, be sure to do waterproofing. Then a layer of dry insulation of the required thickness is poured, leveled with a plastering rule according to the level. The covering layer is made with a concrete mixture or mortar.

The clean floor in the sauna is made of rough ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware. Traditional wood flooring... The terrace board behaves perfectly. In addition, its use is useful in terms of safety, since the board has a grooved surface and does not slip.

Wall and ceiling cladding in the steam room

For cladding walls and ceilings in a steam room, they are usually used wooden lining... Each owner chooses and equips the design of the steam room of the bathhouse to his liking. However, there are general rules that must be followed. First of all, it is the type of wood from which the lining is made. Linden, aspen, larch are considered the most suitable. The use of rocks containing a large amount of resin is undesirable. At high temperatures, they give off vapors with a heavy odor. The next requirement is that the lining should not have knots, cracks and other defects. That is, high quality material is best suited for facing the steam room.

The principle of wall and ceiling cladding is traditional. A crate is made on aluminum foil with the location of the bar for the planned layout of the lining. Then the strips are attached to the frame, connecting them with thorn-groove locks.

Warming the steam room from the inside - step by step instructions

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bath must choose the correct thermal insulation material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must exhibit high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient should not rise above 0.2 W / (m K). And that's just for flooring. And for wall and ceiling insulation, it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W / (m K).

Secondly, the insulator must not react to moisture. Especially outdoor material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of a floor, this material will not work.

Thirdly, an open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements for the walls and attic floor. Here, the characteristics of the material can be increased by external finishing.

Fourthly, the insulation of the steam room assumes constant contact of the material with the area of ​​high temperatures. Some amateurs manage to heat the room up to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 ° C is considered a normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even in the case of a long, many hours stay in this temperature range.

Fifth, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. Highlighting harmful substances and provoking allergic reactions is excluded in principle. People go to the bathhouse for health, and not for new sores.

As a result, granular expanded clay should be recognized as the best insulation option for the field. He is not afraid of either mechanical stress or moisture. It is better to put plain or foil mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heating, and a finishing layer will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical stress.

Polyfoam, expanded polystyrene, foil-clad polyethylene are not suitable for warming a steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, you can proceed to the direct insulation of the steam room from the inside, having previously studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate the floor - layer-by-layer review

To do this, we will have to form a multilayer structure in the direction from the ground, consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a plastic film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists in adding a layer of sand, with a thickness of 15 centimeters.

The second layer is thermal insulation. Formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to twice the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must go to the level of the first crown of the bathhouse.

Expanded clay is perfect for thermal insulation of the steam room floor

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20-cm cells is laid on expanded clay and a screed is poured using a sand-cement mortar with a filler. The optimum screed thickness is from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future plinth, it is necessary to fill a waterproof foil skirt that protects the logs from contact with concrete.

For finishing the heat-resistant floor, use tile or boards laid on the crate.

We insulate the ceiling - step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, a completely different heat insulator is needed - foil mineral wool. It can withstand heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily withstand the usual temperature in this zone of the steam room, which does not rise above 160-180 ° C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer, which protects the boards from mildew and mildew. The second step is to fill the sheathing boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The pitch of the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The ceiling is insulated with foil mineral wool

The third step is laying the insulation. After completing the assembly of the lathing, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, laid with foil outside (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completing the work, there should be no gaps in the ceiling.

The final step is installation over the lathing of a finishing board (lining) or plywood panels. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options from pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bath is made from hard deciduous trees.

How to insulate the walls in the steam room - an overview of the process

Arrangement of vertical thermal insulation on the walls of the bath does not require the use of expensive foil-clad mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and high temperature shield.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We saturate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the frame from rot and fungus.
• We stuff boards on the walls with a thickness of 3-4 centimeters and a width of 2-3 cm more than the depth of the insulation. The pitch of the boards should match the width of the rockwool roll. At the end, all boards must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
• We put mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the sheathing, rolling it in horizontal stripes from bottom to top. In this case, the upper strip should overlap the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). And here it is better to use staples (from a stapler) as fasteners. Moreover, it is better to glue the joints with foil tape.
• We fill the boards with strips 2 centimeters thick, pre-soaked with an antiseptic. This will form the counter grill. And at the end, on top of these planks, we mount the hardwood lining.

Such a scheme allows you to assemble a very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical influences by finishing from the lining. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step video instructions

Warming the steam room from the inside step-by-step instruction video Warming the steam room allows you to solve the problem with the loss of heat, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. Thermal insulation

Warming the steam room from the inside on your own

The bath helps us to relax not only with our body, but also with our soul.

Therefore, it is important that and Decoration Materials not only performed their direct function, but also pleased with an attractive appearance.

A few general rules

The first step before the next treatment is to prepare the work surfaces.

It is necessary to inspect the base for whether there is fungus and mold on it.

Foreign inclusions and protrusions must also be absent.

To get rid of the fungus, it is enough to use a conventional antiseptic composition.

Without it, the insulation of the steam room from the inside will remain ineffective.

It is important to pay attention to the safety of materials.

The main requirement in this case is the ability to withstand high temperatures. Materials must not absorb moisture, must have reliable protection from mold.

And stay durable. Aluminum foil and basalt are not bad, modern solutions... The technology itself plays just as important a role as the materials.

How can isolation be done

In the course of the work we will get a kind of "sandwich". It usually consists of several layers.

• Waterproofing. Prevents the appearance of fungal and mold growth. And prevents the activation of decay processes. This layer also protects the walls from condensation. It forms when hot steam is exposed to the surface. Plastic wrap or foil is considered the best waterproofing material. This is also required by the insulation of the steam room from the inside in a wooden bath.
• Thermal insulation. Plain, clean paper is first laid on the base. The insulating layer is applied only after that. The paper base makes it so that even the minimum amount of harmful substances is not released into the air. The paper makes the minimum amount of hot air escape. After that, a wooden frame is attached from above with the same width as that of the very insulation material... Synthetic board or rock wool are often excellent insulation materials.
• A vapor barrier is needed to protect the thermal insulation from the effects of steam. It also reflects heat radiation. And it creates a kind of "thermos" effect. This layer is made of foil, with a thickness of up to 65 microns. Installation is carried out to the lathing made of wood. What are small nails or a stapler used for? The main thing is to carefully cover all edges and joints with foil. Then the steam will definitely not penetrate into the insulation.
• Internal cladding. For which all surfaces are faced with clapboard. The frame is mounted on top of the thermal insulation layer. The lining itself, which is made from different types of wood, is also laid on the frame itself. The most important characteristic in this case is the minimum density.

What materials to choose

The question is not only about choosing between materials of artificial and natural origin. There are several other factors to consider.

This applies to the appointment and appearance, cost. Materials that solve this issue can be attributed to one of the following groups, depending on their properties.

• Wall blocks and slabs.
• Matte and lamellar, fibrous varieties.
• Backfills with different densities

Several groups are distinguished by chemical composition:

• Which have a plastic base. This includes Styrofoam and Styrofoam.
• Technoblocks and technovets. This is a group of techno-heaters.
• Among inorganic compounds include glass and mineral wool, basalt fiber.
• Organic. This includes wood concrete and fibrolite, aquavata.

Each of the varieties has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, plastic heaters are not very suitable for insulating steam rooms from the inside.

This is due to the fact that such a base does not resist the effects of open fire. But they can insulate other rooms that are part of the bathhouse.

In turn, organic substrates benefit from environmental friendliness. Their cost always remains affordable. But if you don't use special formulations for processing, the material remains flammable.

Inorganic varieties are considered more versatile and practical. This is why mineral wool has become such a popular solution.

Internal insulation will be more effective with materials such as:

• Aluminum foil
• Polyethylene materials
• Glassine base
• Ruberoid types

Vapor barrier with glassine and roofing felt will not give the desired result. After all, these materials, when exposed to high temperatures, emit chemically active and harmful substances.

But glassine in general is often taken in order to insulate baths. But best of all, he has established himself in conjunction with materials such as lining, aluminium foil, mineral wool and frame.

There are several schemes according to which insulation is performed. But one of them has become the most widespread. For example, when using lining with fibrous insulation.

• It all starts with the fact that a frame is created on the working wall surface. We take lathing laths, horizontal and vertical, we fix them on the wall. The timber should be thicker than the insulation, but only by 20-30 millimeters. This margin is necessary to predict possible shifts.
• After that, the wall is sheathed using mineral wool.
• The vapor barrier layer is laid on the insulation. The main thing is to overlap the materials. For places with joints, their sealing, thin slats are used. A distance of about 3 centimeters should remain between the mineral wool and the vapor barrier.
• The lining is stuffed onto the surface of the vertical lathing. The width of the latter is 40-50 mm. There is still a distance, which will be a kind of gap for the ventilation system.

Such work has proven to be effective. But they require certain costs, both in terms of time and effort.

There are now materials on the market that greatly simplify the whole process. Moreover, they combine the function of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

One of these options is foil foam. This is a fire-resistant insulation; no problems arise during its installation. As you can see, the insulation of the steam room from the inside is not so complicated technology.

The scheme described above is well suited for the installation of timber buildings. Panel and frame structures have their own requirements for this process. There are several lightweight materials that will become indispensable helpers when working with panel walls:

Treatment of the heat insulator with milk of lime acts as additional requirement... In the future, it will be necessary to dry the base properly. Thanks to this, the fire resistance is increased, rotting will no longer threaten the material.

If the walls are used in difficult conditions from the point of view of climate, then the walls can be covered with fiberboard, or their analogue - reed slabs. In warm regions, the use of gypsum, cement and chipboard compounds will be relevant.

The order of work for ceilings

Ceilings are most affected by temperatures, which are often 160 degrees. The process of insulation itself and its features depend on the structure of the ceiling itself.

The work will look like this in the presence of an attic or ceiling.

• Cover the ceiling boards with clay. Its layer should be about 20 mm thick.
• Clay is needed in order to effectively retain moisture.
• Wood chips are poured into the cracks that form between the boards.
• Can be used for thermal insulation and other materials. The main thing is that their thickness is at least 200 mm.

The insulation scheme for rooms where the attic is absent looks somewhat different. First, a vapor barrier material is laid there. Sheathing and insulating layer are next, then - ceiling boards with beam beams.

Depending on the materials used and the design features, the order of work will always differ.

Places where insulation and pipes fit together. Between them, an indent of about 200 millimeters must be made in order not to violate fire safety requirements. For this, a special box is constructed from the rafter legs.

It is he who will become the part that separates one part of the structure from another.

The main thing when insulating a bath is to make sure that there are no places through which warm air could leave the room. It is also necessary by all means to prevent the formation of condensation.

About floor insulation

There are two solutions you can use to insulate your steam room floor.

Polystyrene has the important advantage of being a honeycomb structure. Thanks to this, moisture will never penetrate into the material. Thermal insulation properties keep high level even if the surface is under severe mechanical stress.

Thermal insulation of the steam room from the inside

But this material is most often used in baths, which are built of bricks.

It requires additional protection, because the brick itself easily conducts moisture inside.

Expanded polystyrene is a material that meets all safety requirements.

But the surface requires preliminary preparation before using such a material.

The main requirements are strength and evenness. Thorough drying is indispensable.

A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the material prepared in advance. Then, from above, the polystyrene foam plates themselves are installed.

It is important here to make sure that there are no places left without processing. Gaps and crevices can cause the formation of so-called cold bridges, so they should also be absent.

Decorative coatings are also laid on top, but only after the base has completely dried. Ceramic tiles are one of the best solutions today.

But the creation of a demountable floor made of wood is also allowed. It fits perfectly into the interior of the bath. And walking on such a surface is very pleasant. With a removable structure, you can dry the boards without any problems, which extends the overall service life.

About ventilation in the bath

It is impossible not to consider this issue, touching on the topic of insulation.

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on this part of the system in the bath. Ventilation should not only provide airflow to the interior of the room. It is important that it does not let the cold pass inside, but retains the warmth.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to create special supply and exhaust ducts. An inlet is located near the stove, slightly above the floor level.

As for the exhaust duct, it should be on the opposite side, in the upper part of the room. Special dampers provide air flow regulation. One more condition must be met for the system to function normally - that the inlet opening is half the size of the outlet.

The work is regulated by valves. If you manage them correctly, you can achieve the desired results. If you open only one valve, only pleasant aromas will remain in the room, the air will be fresh. Intensive forced ventilation is organized by opening two valves at once.

About waterproofing the floor

The base and its materials determine which insulation method is used in a particular case. Each method should be considered separately.

Concrete floor insulation

This is the simplest and most affordable waterproofing solution for those with a steam room. It is suitable for sinks where the floor is completely filled with concrete. The order of work will be as follows.

• First, the floor surface is leveled until there are no deviations at all. Even the slightest dimples and bumps are unacceptable.
• After that, proceed to applying bituminous mastic... We must wait until it dries.
• Polyethylene film, roofing material are laid on top of this layer.
• The base of the floor is ready, you can proceed to laying the ceramic tiles.

There is also a second method. Its implementation is more complicated. But the result justifies all the costs, such waterproofing will pleasantly surprise you with its high quality. There are several steps to take.

• A plywood sheet is fixed on the surface of the subfloor.
• Hydrosol is placed on top of plywood. This is a material whose edges are led behind the wall.
• All joints in the waterproofing layer are reinforced with aluminum tape.
• Places of seams and joints that have remained untreated are sealed with an ordinary construction hairdryer.
• Next comes the styling reinforced mesh laying concrete mortar.
• The last stage includes decorative cladding.

To prevent all walls from getting dirty, the lining is covered with tape. It is also necessary to look at how old the log house is for the bath. Until the moment of complete shrinkage, buildings usually stand at least two years. Otherwise, the floor surface will deform.

We insulate the wooden floor

This insulation method is very similar to what we wrote about earlier. Differs in the simplest step-by-step instructions.

• A layer of mineral wool mat with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is fixed under the lags.
• Roofing material or euroruberoid is fixed over the first layer.
• Wooden structures require mandatory antiseptic treatment. This will eliminate the risk of rotting. And will protect materials from spontaneous combustion, eating by insects.
• The subfloor must be laid on top of the antiseptic layer. After that, everything is sheathed using lining.
• Only the decorative cladding will remain.

Insulation of the door with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a bath is a process that takes place somewhat differently than in other rooms.

The main difference is the high temperature and humidity, which persist here all the time.

But solving the problem is not difficult if you follow simple rules.

The seals should be installed on the wall as tightly as possible.

This will avoid the appearance of cracks and cracks through which hot or cold air passes inward.

There will be less chance of excessive moisture and condensation in the bath.

Drying of the insulation is provided only by ventilation gaps, therefore it is not recommended to forget about them.

Ceilings must withstand the highest temperatures, this is always worth remembering. The main thing is not to use materials for insulation in this part of the room that are too easily deformable.

Or those species that release harmful chemicals when exposed to high temperatures. Condensation collects on plastic without any problems.

Doors, thresholds in the room also affect the performance of thermal insulation. A large gap under the door can lead to a low heat capacity. pair room... There is always a solution - just install low doors that have a large sill.

• Warming the steam room from the inside on your own

  
  The bath helps us to relax not only with our body, but also with our soul. Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also