September 19, 2016
Specialization: Master in Construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings... Installation of door and window blocks, decoration of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

If you are faced with a problem with protecting the premises from the summer heat and you need to solve it with minimal cost, then foil can be an excellent solution, and you can use different versions of it. I will tell you about what you can find on sale today and how to carry out the work in order to protect yourself from the sun and not spoil the window.

The main product options and their features

Foil for windows from the sun can be different, I will talk about the options that are most common. We will figure out how to fix them better, what are the pros and cons of this or that solution, and in what situations it is better to use a certain type of product.

Option 1 - regular foil

This solution has several undoubted advantages:

Affordable price	In what, but in cost, this option has no equal, the foil for baking has an affordable price. If you need to solve the problem with heat at minimal cost, then this method simply cannot be found better.
Availability	You can buy material in both hardware and grocery stores, which have a small section with little things useful for housewives. Roughly speaking, you can go out for bread and buy everything you need to build a sun protection system.
Efficiency	The surface of the foil reflects very well Sun rays, thereby allowing to significantly reduce the temperature in the room without the use of special equipment
Ease of use	For work, you do not need special tools and devices, fastening is done very quickly and very simply, below we will analyze this process in detail

Naturally, this option has its drawbacks:

• The main drawback is that aluminium foil opaque, so if you glue the windows completely over it, then the room will be dark. Alternatively, you can close the window opening only partially, this will reduce the efficiency, but it will provide the room with at least some natural light;
• Another disadvantage is not very attractive appearance... Of course, if you need to quickly solve a problem, and the view is unimportant, you can ignore this aspect, but still, many people want the window to look more or less dignified;

• If you do not know how to glue the foil to the window and listen to the advice of pseudo-masters, then it is very easy to spoil the surface. Improper fastening makes the process of removing the foil very long and tedious, you will have to sit by the window for more than one hour.

Let's figure out how the installation is carried out. I previously read information on this issue on the Internet and do you know what I found? That the request "how to remove the foil from the window" is much more common than the question of how to glue it.

The fact is that many fix the foil as tint - they apply a soapy solution to the glass, apply the material and expel moisture from under it. As a result, when it is necessary to remove the protection, it is found that the foil is torn off in small pieces and there is simply no other way out except to pore over a window with a blade or a construction knife.

I will tell about more easy way, it may be less attractive, but it takes a little time, and it will not be difficult to remove the foil later.

Before gluing the material to glass, you need to stock up on everything you need, the list is very simple:

• Foil in the required amount, to determine how much it is needed, measure the area of ​​the glass, then on the spot you will be able to orient yourself based on the width and length of the rolls;
• Scotch tape - the most common option will do, but you can use a narrow one, work with it will be a little more difficult, but removal will be much easier;
• Scissors are needed for cutting materials during work.

The work is done like this:

• First, the window is wiped so that there is no dust on the glass and frame, which will allow the adhesive tape to stick much more reliably;
• Next, you need to take measurements to determine which pieces the foil will be cut into. For work, it is better to adapt either the table big size, or free up the area on the floor, since the material is very fragile and can be easily damaged;
• A cut piece of foil is placed on the surface, after which you need to glue a piece of adhesive tape to the upper side so that it half enters the material;
• Next, the element is fixed on the window, it is better to glue it to the frame, but you can also directly on the glass, it all depends on the situation;

It is better to glue the foil strips together already on the window, and not on the floor, or, it will be much easier this way.

• And do not forget that the material is opaque, so before gluing individual areas, you need to decide which part of the structure you will leave open. Try to choose the area where the sun shines the least.

A little advice on removal - after peeling off the tape, traces may remain, which is easiest to wipe off detergent composition for windows.

Option 2 - curtain film for windows

This is a more reliable type of product that is specially designed for use in window constructions... The sun-protection film-curtain has whole line important advantages:

• Strength - this material is much more reliable than brittle foil, therefore it is easier to work with it, you will not be afraid to damage the surface with one careless movement;

• Convenient dimensions - products are sold in rolls 60-100 cm wide and 3 m long, this configuration is well suited for window structures;
• Affordable cost - one roll will cost you only 100 rubles, and this, with quality, is several times better than that of plain foil;
• Attractiveness - if you carry out the installation in accordance with all the recommendations, then your windows will look very neat and even presentable;
• Transparency - the film reflects light from the outside, but from the inside almost does not limit the view, only slightly darkens the glass. Thanks to this, you can safely cover the entire area and provide maximum effective protection from the summer sun.

• There are two product options, each with its own advantages. One option is glued to the glass, and the second is used as a curtain, each has its own advantages, and you can choose a specific solution.

Do not buy Agrokhoztorg products, as this is the most unreliable option on the market. The packaging says "Beware of counterfeits", but the original does not differ in quality - there are cases when the material fell into disrepair the next day after gluing, and it was almost impossible to tear it off.

Now let's figure out how to carry out the work with our own hands, I will begin consideration with more simple option, which is called "sun blinds" and may have different sizes... The workflow with this type of product is extremely simple:

• Before sticking the curtain, you need to wipe the upper part of the frame, the material will attach much better to a clean surface;
• Next, you need to unfold the canvas, make sure that it fits, and then remove protective film from the upper adhesive strip and press it firmly against the frame; this completes the installation.

The film transmits light and can be pushed aside as a curtain if necessary, which is very convenient.

Now let's figure out the option that is glued to the glass, here the instructions for carrying out the work are more complicated:

• First you need to wash the window very well, if there are any specks or stains on it, then the film will only emphasize them and spoil the entire appearance of the window opening. For washing, use any means, the main thing is that the surface is clean;
• Measurements are then taken to determine the dimensions of our glazed areas. After that, you need to cut out the material, but not exactly according to the parameters, but with a margin of 5 mm in all directions, this will eliminate the waste when there is a gap around the perimeter, and will simplify your work, because slight distortions are easily compensated by the stock of material;
• The surface should be abundantly moistened with soapy water, this will avoid immediate adhesion of the film to the glass and will help to adjust its position. For work, the easiest way is to use a spray gun so as not to flood the entire window structure;

• The protective layer is also removed from the reflective material and the same soap solution is applied to the surface. You shouldn't have any questions about which side to glue the material on - the reflecting surface always looks outward, it is this surface that should be very abundantly moistened;
• The prepared element is neatly positioned on the glass, thanks to soap solution the film runs well on the substrate and you need to align it in an optimal position. There should be no large folds on the surface;

• Moisture from under the film is expelled either with a regular cloth or with rubber spatula if you have one at hand. Work is done from the center to the edges, make sure that no moisture remains anywhere;
• Lastly, the blade cuts off the excess material around the perimeter, after which you can enjoy the result of the work.

Today I am publishing my first master class, which I prepared for a series of weekend assignments under the general title "Weekend" for blog "Thirst for Creativity"... So, do not judge strictly))

I suggest you get inspired to work with the usual Food foil that each of us has. This simple material has been familiar to me since childhood - back in kindergarten we made a variety of crafts out of it, fixing it on a cardboard base. The main "tools" were used pen refills and teaspoons or ice cream sticks. I loved making "chocolates" for playing "in the store", for which I used now little-known cardboard train tickets ... This is where I will end my lyrical digression about the love of "light metal").

So, for work we need simple tools presented in the photo (No. 1):

Food foil;
- composters or cutting from paper or cardboard (you can use a variety of cuts);
- PVA glue (medium density or thick);
- base (chipboard or thick cardboard - you can prepare it yourself using our MK);
- scissors;
- tea spoon;
- an embossing tool with a ball at the end (can be bought in all departments of manicure products) or already used refills from pens with a large ball (thin ones can break through the foil!);
- paint brush;
- a hard bristle brush for removing paint;
- black acrylic paint;
- gel markers or acrylic paints;
- a napkin made of non-woven fabric (I buy these in rolls for cleaning).

We will make a small 16 x 8 cm embossed tag and an antique button.

To do this, we will prepare the necessary elements and compose the composition (in order not to forget the arrangement of the elements, you can take a photo on your phone or draw a sketch with a pencil).

Now we need to glue the elements very well to the base, since air bubbles, due to weak gluing, can interfere with the embossing.

Glue can be applied to the entire surface of the tag and overlay elements, remembering to glue each layer if they overlap.

After that, apply a sheet of prepared foil and gently smooth it with a napkin, removing air bubbles (with movements from the center to the edges) and a spoon wrapped in a double folded napkin (so that there is no friction and the foil does not break).

After the foil is firmly attached to the surface, turn the tag over, glue the edges of the foil and carefully fold them.

We can cover the reverse side with foil or paper of our choice. Flip the tag again (now it looks like this)

and again smooth the surface of the volumetric motifs with a spoon and a napkin, gently "pushing" the foil under the edges of the volumetric elements.

Now let's leave it dry for 30 minutes and finally get to work on our wonderful button!

To do this, we will again use three sizes of composters (you can cut with other available ways), a hole punch (you can use a thick awl, nail or knitting needle), glue, foil, paper and cardboard for the base.

We make cuttings and create the base of the button (I have it 3.2 cm)

Gently glue the foil onto the button surface, smooth it with a spoon or napkin, turn it over, coat the edges and glue it to the base, not forgetting the side. To do this, we gently "tap" them with a spoon with sliding movements on the table surface, holding the button with our fingers.

We turn the workpiece over and, since the object is small, we can start embossing. To do this, I gently pushed through the required relief with a tool with a ball, and with a thinner one - I applied an arbitrary pattern to the curls.

We can now return to the tag. The glue under the foil dries for a long time, so the work can be postponed the next day, but this is not necessary.

Using the tool with a large ball, we again nudge the foil under the edges of the volumetric elements, detailing the motive, and then apply a bitmap between them with a small ball, tapping on the surface as a woodpecker does)) until we get a fairly clear image.

It's time to paint with acrylic paint, which we apply to the entire surface of the tag and button.

Then, without waiting for complete drying, we take a hard brush and, with movements from side to side (top-down, left-to-right, etc.), dry the paint and partially remove it from the surface of the foil until we achieve the desired result.

If the paint still has time to dry, then use a damp brush and a soft non-woven cloth. Do not rub the surface too hard, otherwise, instead of a beautiful "plaque" we will get a shiny surface!

The paint dries quickly enough, so the work can be considered finished. However, I decided to tint it with gel markers. They dry very quickly on the surface of the paper and acrylic paint but not on foil. This is what we will use. I applied random strokes and rubbed them with my finger, removing the excess with a napkin. Now it remains to punch a hole in the tag. That's all!

To make the thin foil denser, you can slightly crumple it until small wrinkles appear and apply it to more voluminous parts - then during embossing it will not break through, since it will straighten. In this case, clear detailing may "suffer", however, for the creation of many objects this is not only unimportant, but also serves as an additional decor.
I will not be unfounded and I will bring small example using an already known button blank.

Lightly crinkle the foil and glue it to the button surface and edges. In this case, you can press down on the foil by rubbing the workpiece against the surface of a sheet of paper or a work mat (you can also use a table). We do the same with the edges. Punch holes and detail the indentations with a large ball embossing tool.

We get a texture that no longer needs additional decorations in the form of a pattern.

The result of our work is an old blackened button. Also very beautiful!

Well, now let's move on to another type of foil that I found in a hardware store - Self-adhesive foil on a polypropylene basis (similar to the one in which baby porridge is packed)). It is impossible to emboss with it, but it has an excellent property - it melts perfectly with the help of a hair dryer for embossing, so I decided to definitely use it. The algorithm of work is the same - we look at the photos ...

We select the most interesting from the heap of scraps from completed projects.

Composing a collage.

We take a base - a chipboard - and apply glue to its surface.

We lay out the elements, gluing each layer.

We dry the composition with a hairdryer and glue the self-adhesive polypropylene foil, pressing it to the surface of the collage (you can not be careful - it will not break)).

You can also use a car, but it is not necessary. I made a "sandwich" from a platform, a transparent plate, a collage blank, a silicone mat and an embossing plate - BUT! be sure to take into account the thickness of the workpiece, otherwise the top plate will bend and have to be leveled!

We get our blank - the scotch tape "bubbles" anyway.

Therefore, we arbitrarily cut off "all unnecessary" with the help of a breadboard knife.

We melt the foil with a hair dryer. Sorry, but I got so carried away that I forgot to photograph this while creating the collage.

Paint black paint, then we tint with white paint and at the same time mix the colors in the right places In general, we are doing art - the result is unpredictable, and it helps to relax! As a result, we get something quite interesting - you can paint it again, sprinkle it, etc. I haven’t done this yet, because I haven’t decided on the “frame” for my “picture”.

The daughter called this creation: "Lyovushkina's painting" Atelier after the fire "))) God forbid, of course!

So it's turn Self-adhesive foil melting techniques... This was the first time I used it, so I was very happy with the amazing and new effects.
For the demonstration, I took a die cut on cardboard and glued on a piece of foil, not bothering about cutting along the edge.

Aluminum is a metal that is lightweight, strong and resistant to external influence environment... This metal has its drawback - it does not have adhesion properties.

Therefore, it must either be welded or glued. Since only professionals can weld, aluminum glue is a great household option. But for this metal, only special glue is suitable.

Any glue intended for aluminum must contain alkalis and acids in its composition, which destroy its oxide film and increase adhesion, ensuring a strong connection.

• Adhesive for Mastix aluminum... It is used to glue aluminum, seal containers and joints, repair non-ferrous and ferrous metals, wood, ceramics and plastic in any combination. Even with low temperatures, as well as on oily and damp surfaces, quickly and reliably glues parts. This is a heat-resistant glue for aluminum, so the products glued with it can be used at very low and extremely high temperatures (from -60 to +150 degrees). The cost of a 55 g tube: 33 rubles.

• Cold welding ASTROhim ACE-9305... It is a reliable adhesive for immediate repair, which can be useful in an emergency to repair a breakdown. Its use ensures strong adhesion of aluminum and its alloys, as well as restoration of broken or lost fragments, including threads. Temperature Range: from -60 to +150 degrees Celsius. Packing cost: 82 rubles.

• Cosmopur 819. One-component polyurethane adhesive solution, with which you can fasten aluminum. Gives a viscous and elastic seam between the surfaces to be glued, used for filling gaps, gluing corners aluminum structures designed for doors and windows. Also designed to work with assembly and structural connections. Solvents are not included in its composition. The cost of a 310 ml package: 456 rubles.

• Moment Epoxy Metal... Two-component adhesive that guarantees bonding of aluminum, steel, copper, iron and many others metal products among themselves and in combination with stone, concrete, marble, organic glass and other materials. Suitable for filling cracks and gaps between surfaces. The cost of a package with a volume of 50 ml: 320 rubles.

How and how to glue aluminum to aluminum

With development modern technologies it became possible to firmly glue the aluminum parts together thanks to the cold method.

For this you will need:

• Glue cold welding Mastix;
• Sandpaper;
• Alcohol, acetone, or any other degreasing agent.

To glue aluminum together with such glue, it is necessary:

• Use emery paper to clean the surfaces to be connected from rust and dirt;
• Degrease with alcohol or acetone;
• Wait until the surface is dry;
• Cut off the right amount rod and mix well the two components with your fingers so as to obtain a homogeneous mass in the form of plasticine. The color should be uniform;
• Apply the adhesive mixture to both aluminum surfaces that will be joined;
• Press firmly and fix them for 15 minutes, until the glue hardens.

What and what else can aluminum be glued to

Two-component adhesive for aluminum on epoxy base possesses high adhesion and heat-resistant properties.

With its help, aluminum can be glued to other materials with different thermal expansion: stone, porcelain, wood or plastic.

To glue an aluminum surface with other metals and materials, you need to prepare:

• Epoxy heat-resistant glue Moment Epoxy Metal;
• Sandpaper;
• Brush;
• Means for degreasing the glued surface (alcohol or acetone).

After that, you can get to work:

1. Sand the surfaces to be bonded with coarse sandpaper to remove dirt and rust;
2. Degrease the parts with acetone or alcohol;
3. Dry;
4. Squeeze out the contents of two syringes of glue (epoxy and hardener) in a 1: 1 ratio into a separate container;
5. Mix the epoxy mass and the hardener well with each other with a brush;
6. Apply glue with a brush to both aluminum surfaces to be glued;
7. Connect the parts and press them tightly for a few seconds;
8. Wipe off excess glue immediately with a cloth;
9. Wait 30 minutes until glue mixture will harden.

Although many do not recognize the effectiveness of using glue for aluminum, choosing the right product and performing the glued work clearly according to the instructions, with its help you can achieve the most durable connection.

Moreover, this type of connection can be combined with mechanical fastening.

Thought about foil more than 10 years ago, but only now. There were experiments, tests, in general, everything that was at hand and not only was used, and finally I found a way out for myself. There are very few articles about foil, or rather how to glue it over with it, and really, no one tells anything, the glue that everyone uses (Metal foil adhesive), I tried it, it's good, but it's to glue the finished model and push the joining. Maybe, of course, not so, but I did not quite like this method, especially since it is almost impossible to make an external riveting with it. In general, to the point! In this article, I will analyze two options, one of them is a construction on this site, the second has not yet been designed here, but I will also start, this is a model with an external riveted and a model with an internal riveted.

I immediately apologize, I lost the foil samples, but the foil is used for baths, their thickness is different, in my case the foil is about the same thickness as the foil from the lids of Nescafe coffee and cans of dry mix Nan, I will try to find and report. In Yekaterinburg, I found one place where they sell it. Foil, which is thinner, is no longer soft, but like canned tin, it needs to be annealed, this is too much time, and we don’t need a thicker one. It is sold in 10 meter rolls 1 meter wide. The price is 1500r, this will be enough for all models. In principle, if you take a thinner foil, such as for baking, you get a self-adhesive foil like a store in rolls. It won't suit us either.
So, let's move on.

Next, GLUE! I used different, Moment (diluted with a solvent, by the way, as an option, but not an easy way), American special for foil, such as pure PVA, I tried 3M spray (it needs thick foil and subsequent grinding). In general, you find out shops selling advertising products, or you order such a thing via the Internet. Double-sided adhesive tape 3M ™ 467MP, its size is 600 * 900, there are also more, but we sell it like that. The thickness of the adhesive layer is 0.05 mm. Price in ECB 360r. Foil preparation looks like this

So we take the foil, roll it out on a flat surface, such as glass, roll it out with a squeegee, or any plastic spatula. Degrease. Next, we look at the photo, tear off one side of the double-sided tape and glue it onto foil, smooth it with a squeegee, then carefully roll the rest over the foil, if it’s not clear, look at how advertisers roll the film, the same thing! I do about 300 by 300 pieces.
Next, let's look at the option with an external riveting.

I will take as a basis the work on my Hurricane model, here is the link
So, I scaled the drawings, then attached the model, and figured out what and how, where to add, and where to subtract. the model does not quite fit into the drawings. We laminate the drawing, take the file and put the drawing in it, take the scotch tape and fix the drawing inside so that it does not move inside.

Next, we take the scotch tape, I use the Tesa paper tape, it will be in the photo further, and we stick it on the panel that we need. The wing shapes are symmetrical, there is no need to mirror anything (some individual elements mirror and print separately). You need to mirror in order to glue on the back of the foil.

Next, using a ruler and a marker, or a pencil, apply a rivet.

Peel off and transfer to the reverse side of the foil ...

Next comes the revitter. I used to use a gear, then I ordered a Trumpeter revitter, all this is not the same. I bought just such a thing, and the thing turned out to be just cool! The gear is not so easy to find, in the workshops they look at you as abnormal, or they say that the gears are not for sale, in short, I took and ordered this device, having no experience of buying in an Internet store, everything turned out quickly, and everything came quickly within 9 days. In the photo it is at the top.

So, we roll the rivets and cut the panel along the contour ...

Next, we take a toothpick, round it a little and smooth the panel, it turns out this is such a thing ...

And in this way we completely cover the panel. By the way, the process, not to say that it is laborious, in 12 minutes 50 seconds, such is the result ...

Next is the inner riveting! As a cat, model P-47 from Hasegawa in 32nd scale.
Everything is the same, just stick on front side, we roll the riveting exactly in place, before gluing, for which: firstly, just apply everything on a flat surface, and secondly, when applying the inner riveting, a groove will form, due to which the panel will not adhere well, but after rolling, everything will be OK, and you will get cool flaps if you don't roll out the foil too much! The main thing is to comply with the drawing so that the riveting coincides on the panels after gluing. Well, in general, something like that.



I think I explained it clearly, but if anything, write, I will be happy to answer ...

Foil background. Master Class

Effective work can be done even from the usual food foil- the one in which we bake different dishes.

For this we need

foil, acrylic primer, glue and a regular dishwashing sponge.

I will make a reservation right away: it is more convenient for me to use a glue stick, perhaps some of you like to glue on acrylic primer more. In this case, a palette knife will help you ...

First of all, we glue the cardboard blanks of the covers with glue so carefully that there are no uncovered places. This is especially important if you plan to use embossing later (foil that is poorly adhered to the substrate may bubble when exposed to a hair dryer).

Then we put the crumpled foil (take a piece larger than the format of our cover) on a cardboard base and ...

we begin to accept it. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to turn the future cover into a perfectly smooth mirror. Our goal is to make beautiful creases... At first I lightly squeeze the foil with my hand, then go over it with a dish sponge - not with smoothing, sliding movements, but as if pressing the foil into the cardboard.

After we have processed the front side of the cover in this way, we fold the foil onto the back side. Do not forget about the "rib": so that the contours of the cover look clear and the foil does not "walk" along the edge, "roll our cover with an edge on the table on each side.

We turn the cover over to the back and glue the foil to the cardboard base. Since the endpaper will subsequently be glued to this side, creases are not needed here - we need a surface as smooth as possible, therefore we glue it with diligence, smoothing movements.

This is what the finished covers look like.

However, they are only half ready. Then the fun begins. We collect acrylic primer on a sponge and rub over the cover. Why do I rub at the beginning ... Because I prefer not a uniform dense white background, but with transitions from gray to white - this gives the background a more complex and interesting aged look.
So, first we rub the soil over the surface with wide movements.

... and then we pick up the soil again and begin to process individual areas of the surface with it using the "chpok-chpok" technique to make them lighter. If there is a lot of soil, then you can get such an interesting texture (see in an enlarged form)

If we need scuffs to heighten the effect, turn the sponge over the hard side and start scrubbing and scratching the surface.

Then I use white embossing. From some angles, the result looks like this: