A homemade crane from a jack will be useful in almost any garage and other places where it is periodically necessary to lift different kinds cargo.

A crane is needed on the farm for lifting heavy loads, for example, when repairing a car.

Such a lift is assembled and installed without any special difficulties by hand. Directly lifting is carried out by the efforts of a standard jack. Check out the manual and you can make a homemade crane without any problems, significantly saving money on buying a ready-made factory-made unit.

Varieties of homemade crane designs

There are many different types and designs of homemade jack cranes.

So, for example, a single-post crane from a jack is usually used in the repair of trucks. The design of such a unit is represented by one rack, along which four mounts for automobile wheels are moved.

The most wide application found two-post cranes; such designs are easy to assemble, install and use.

Assembly Guide

Prepare the following:

• metal corners;
• iron pipes;
• sheet metal;
• reinforcing bars;
• welding machine;
• hacksaw for metal;
• fasteners.

The finished crane will be lifted by the efforts of an ordinary jack.

1. Make a shoe for securing the jack. The element is welded from metal and a 12 mm iron rod. The shoe should be able to move normally on the rack, so be careful when sizing structural elements.
2. Make the back beam. For this you need 4 corners. Assemble the items into a square frame. Assemble using clamps.
3. Insert an iron rod with a square cross-section 26x21 mm and a length of about 35 cm inside the square.
4. Insert electric rivets into the pre-created holes. Sand the surfaces. As a result, you will get a convenient collapsible assembly.
5. Make a 4mm thick sheet metal pad. Platform dimensions - 35x15 cm. Bend the sides sheet metal or weld a 2 cm wide strip on the potholders with pre-made holes to secure the board. Attach a rubber strip to the board.
6. Weld the guides, lintel and stiffeners under the bottom of the platform. Slide the pad onto the top beam.
7. Make a connecting piece from sheet metal 3-4 mm thick. The element is made in 2 parts. Weld a strip of metal 3-4 mm thick between the parts. Attach around the perimeter of the products. The front should remain open. Weld the jumper in the lower element of the assembly.
8. Make a stand. For this you need metal corners. Assemble the corners into a square structure. Use clamps when assembling.
9. After joining the corners, make a 26 mm hole in the lower part at a distance of 31 mm from the edge. The remaining 0.5 cm will be used to weld the metal bar inside the structure.
10. Then drill 13mm holes. Do the first at a distance of 10 cm, the second after 8 cm, the next after 19 mm. The sizes 8 and 19 mm should be repeated accordingly. The pins will be installed through these holes.
11. Connect the finished square profile with the holes using pieces of metal corners, also connected in a square shape.
12. At this point, insert 36mm spacers between the profiles.
13. After finishing welding works let the parts cool completely without reaching for the spacers. Make sure that the top beam runs unobstructed into the space between the two square profiles.
14. Make a front knot. At this stage, you will need line segments inch pipe, iron rod and corner.
15. Take a corner about 33 cm long and place marks on its surface at a distance of 6 cm in each direction from the center. Cut off the shelves to the edges from the marks left.
16. Make a 16mm hole in the center of the metal corner. It will be used to connect the lower beam. Bend the corner into the letter P.
17. Next, you need to connect the prepared parts to the rack. Supervise the welding, do not burn through the pipe.
18. The front connector is movable. That is, the U-shaped figure you created from the corner with pipes installed at the edges should rotate on an iron rod.

Sometimes, when working under the hoods of cars, it becomes necessary to assist additional mechanisms that can help pull out or hang out the engine, while leaving enough space in the hole under the car for access to all the parts of the car. Ideally, such a vehicle repair aid should:

• do not clutter up the garage space;
• understand the constituent elements;
• be independent of the ceiling fixed eyebolt.

It is precisely such a mechanism that a self-made crane-beam is.

DIY video for making a crane beam:

DIY garage crane construction

1. As a result of performing all the actions described below, a crane-beam will be built, which will look like this in the assembled state:

2. In the disassembled state, this tool for the garage will look like this:

The height of such a crane-beam will be 250 cm, width - 415 cm.The base of the racks will be 120 cm in size.All dimensions are designed for work with cars... If a crane-beam is needed to work with more massive cars, then it is better to strengthen the structure by making A-shaped vertical struts and additionally using gussets for the boom supports; the material used will have to have big sizes than those that are given.

3. As materials for the crane beam we will use:

• a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, which will serve as a transverse seamless bar;
• pipes with a diameter of 11 cm, which will play the role of rod supports;
• bolts M: 16 for attaching to the rod supports;
• pipe square profile 10x10 cm, used as a stand;
• corner 10x10 cm for the base and bevels;
• rollers for the cable (you can use rollers from the drive of the elevator doors).

4. The rollers are fastened to a 5 cm strip, which is welded overlapping to the junction of the rod with the supports.

5. To ensure the mobility of the tool, rollers taken from containers used in warehouses are welded to the racks.

When folded, this item takes up very little garage space.

6. The lifting mechanism is constructed from a manual worm-gear winch with a lifting capacity of 800 kg, having steel rope, by welding it to the upright post.

The construction of a home-made crane will help those who are building a residential house, summer cottage or garden house themselves.

A homemade lifting crane will make it easier to mount the foundation, walls, ceilings and other structural elements.
With the help of such a jib crane, it is possible to carry loads up to 3 m, lift to a height of 2 m and lower to a depth of 2.5 m. The mechanism should count on the installation of structures weighing up to 300 kg.

Rice. 1. Diagram of a crane that can be made by hand:

1 - block, 2- boom, 3 - crane trolley, 4- telescopic stand, 5 - paired corners, 6 - blocks of the boom base, 7-I-beam, 8- struts, 9- winch for moving the crane trolley, 10- cargo frame , 11 - hoist winch, 12 - electric winch drive, 13 - rack corner, 14,15 - М 16 bolts, 16 - lifting hook assembled with a block.

The crane consists of a horizontal boom-beam (the crane trolley moves along it) and vertical support legs made of steel pipes to which the horizontal beams are attached. The crane is collapsible, which allows you to move it from place to place.
Construction of crane racks.
They are made of pipes with a diameter of 140 mm. Their height can be increased up to 3 m using telescopic incoming pipes. So that the racks do not fall into the ground, corners are welded to the base. A horizontal beam is welded to the upper part of the supports - two corners x 65 x 10 mm connected together. A horizontal rail, an I-beam No. 20, measuring 200 x 100 x 5.2 mm, 3000 mm long, along which the crane trolley moves, is attached to it from below on four bolts.

The second pair of rail supports consists of two vertical pipes connected at the top and bottom. For greater stability, two inclined supports are welded to them, connecting, in turn, the posts with a rectangular frame. The latter prevents the crane from overturning, as it serves as the basis for laying sandbags or concrete blocks.

An important feature of the jib crane is its control. Those who will build and operate it need to know: the crane has a lifting and mobile device. If necessary, any part can be lowered below the zero mark (into a foundation pit or trench). The entire system of cables and hoist blocks is driven by an electric motor. The cart is moved by a manual winch using a cable. One end of it is fixed on the trolley, then through the block the cable goes to the drum, makes five turns and, again passed through the blocks at the base and at the end of the boom, is fixed on the crane trolley.

The hook is lifted by a cable, fixed at one end on the winch and passing successively the blocks of the base, boom and crane trolley; then the cable goes down, forms a loop on which the block with the hook is suspended, and through the block of the crane trolley it is fixed at the end of the boom.

Rice. 2. Diagram of the mechanism for lifting and moving the load:

1- the block of the end of the boom, 2- the stud for fastening the cable to the crane trolley, 3-blocks of the base of the boom of the mechanism for moving the crane trolley, 4 - the cable moving the crane trolley, 5 - drum, 6 - winch of the lifting mechanism, 7 - block of the base of the boom of the lifting mechanism , 8 - mottled trolley blocks, 9 - hook block, 10 - hoisting rope fastening unit.

For the hoisting device, the drive can also be carried out with a conventional manual winch, which will provide the crane with full autonomy.

Before starting work, you should carefully check the strength of the assemblies and supports. It is not allowed to stand under the boom - this is a basic safety rule at any construction site.

We hope there will be farmers and gardeners who will build a crane to make their work easier. Maybe not like that. But similar. The main thing is that he helps in the work.

Homemade lifting devices Is an indispensable tool for a garage in which a major car repair is planned. With this accessory, you can easily remove the engine of the car, raise the edge of the body or even the entire car.

Easy-to-manufacture home-made lifting mechanisms several times facilitate and speed up work not only in the garage, but also near the house. They are indispensable for construction and repair, moving construction waste, unloading weights.

Types of lifting mechanisms

Before you start assembling a garage crane with your own hands, you should choose which mechanism will suit you best. Lifting machines belong to a rather important category of industrial and household equipment. They are designed to move various loads in a vertical or inclined direction. A useful function for motorists is the ability to move the load suspended on the hook to the side, thereby freeing up space for work. When designing a lift for a car, it is advisable to supplement it with a similar option - this way you can expand the list of actions performed in the garage.

Acquisition already finished lift entails significant financial costs, so many garage owners are interested in the question of how to make such a mechanism themselves. First you need to figure out what types of devices exist, how they differ from each other, and what functions they have. The classification is carried out according to various criteria: principle of operation, purpose, type of drive. Let's consider the most common types of lifting machines:

1. Blocks are manual mechanisms that use only the strength of human muscles to lift a load. The structure of the block is known from school curriculum: it consists of a wheel with a recess around, rotating around a fixed axis. A rope, rope or metal chain is passed through the groove. The force required to lift weights decreases by geometric progression along with the increase in the number of blocks in the system.
2. A jack is a simple lever device used to raise one side of a vehicle. Jacks can be both manual and hydraulic, pneumatic and electric.
3. Tal is a manual or mechanized device consisting of a system of interconnected blocks. Depending on the number of individual wheels (pulleys), hoists are divided into two-, three-, four-pulley, etc. The maximum number of pulleys that use such devices is 12. An industrial type of hoist - a chain hoist is often used to move cargo on ships.

In addition to standard lifting devices, there are specialized installations:

1. The hoist is an improved hoist equipped with electric drive... Thanks to this addition, the power and carrying capacity of the mechanism increases, and when the telpher is placed on a horizontal I-beam, it becomes possible to move loads along the room.
2. A crane is an elementary device that works on the principle of a lever. A hook for hanging the load is attached to one end of the lever, and a counterweight is attached to the opposite end. The lifting height of loads largely depends on the position of the mechanism itself, since the length of the lever stroke remains small. With the help of a crane, you can not only lift weights, but also move them along a trajectory described by the radius of the lever. Often, a crane successfully replaces a crane, but due to its large dimensions, its use in a garage is not practiced.

What characteristics should a garage lift have?

Since the device will be used in the rather cramped conditions of a standard garage, certain requirements are put forward for it. Firstly, it should not be too large - such a car lift, despite its high power, takes up a lot of space, which is very undesirable in such a small area. Secondly, it is recommended to give preference to mechanisms with a small vertical stroke, otherwise you run the risk of running into them against the ceiling.

The second requirement is carrying capacity. It is calculated based on the types of work for which the car lift is being developed. The dimensions of the mechanism also depend on the purpose. If a conventional jack is also suitable for a normal wheel change, then for larger-scale work you will need a car lift with a platform, although for such responsible actions it is recommended to resort to the help of professional equipment.

Materials and tools

When designing a garage lift with your own hands, you need to have in your arsenal not only drawings of the future device, but also arm yourself with a set of tools and high-quality materials that are resistant to loads. First of all, you will need:

• welding machine;
• grinder with a cutting wheel for metal;
• bolts and nuts for fastening;
• steel pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm;
• steel corner or profiled pipe with a cross section of 35-40 mm;
• cable;
• homemade winch for the garage (you can buy it, the factory-made version will be more reliable).

As the planned homemade garage winch becomes a reality, the list of accessories for it may change slightly, depending on your specific requirements for the device.

The Pioneer crane is an irreplaceable machine during the production of loading and unloading, assembly and construction and renovation works... Depending on the size and volume of loading materials, it can be used and installed on the roofs of houses, in pits, as well as on the ceilings of buildings that are in construction mode.

This "miracle machine" consists of: control panel (control system is automated), boom, electric winch and two frames - support and swing. The Pioneer crane is a machine that is quite simple to operate and does not require the use of special physical efforts. Even a person who is not experienced in the construction business can cope with crane control.

Construction diagram

There is no need to register the Pioneer crane with the regulatory authorities. If it becomes necessary to transport the crane to another place, there will be no problems with this either, since this machine is very convenient to transport.

Operating conditions

The Pioneer crane does not require compliance with strict rules of use. It can work equally well on a hot summer day (air temperature +40 degrees Celsius) and in freezing cold (up to -40 degrees Celsius).

But, it is worth paying attention to the slope of the site, where the crane will be located in the future. It should not exceed 3 degrees.

Quite calmly, this machine can operate at a wind speed of 14 m / s. BUT: it is worth stopping the operation of the crane, if the wind speed is over 33 m / s.

My own master

Many owners of summer cottages or private houses make cranes themselves. This is very convenient, since each mechanism (whether it be a simple motor or a full-fledged hydraulic drive) will be tuned and adjusted to the person who made it. In addition, such a mechanism helps not only to carry heavy monolithic blocks, but also to deliver light loads, such as, to the top of the building.

Alas, it is unlikely that it will be possible to apply hydraulics to your creation. But it will turn out to replace it with an equally worthy homemade hoisting machine that is not too heavy to use.

Many may have a quite adequate question "Where to get the parts?" If you push your innate disgust to the background, and take a walk in many noteworthy landfills native land, then you can find a lot of things useful at the construction site.

So, in order to create a Pioneer crane with your own hands, the first thing to do is to find an I-beam and rectangular pipe... Immediately, the condition is stipulated that the I-beam must freely enter the pipe. It is placed on sliding guides, and thus a telescopic unit is obtained.

During use, in order to reduce the level of friction, the slide rails must be lubricated!

In order for the crane to finally be able to function, it is necessary to equip it with certain cables of the smallest diameter. You will already have to spend money on them in a specialized hardware store (although you may also be lucky to find them in a landfill). You can use the channel as a material for welding the support and swing frames. It is the channel that allows good fixation of the crane on the surface. Usually, the roof of the object that is being built is this surface.

In order to work with the machine without incidents, as well as to protect yourself, it is necessary to weld a platform for the ballast of a rectangular shape.

One will be enough foundation block, for lifting a load weighing half a ton. To start the lifting process, you can purchase an electric motor in a special store, and then connect it to a winch from an UAZ.

Electrical connection

To start the lifting mechanism electrically, you will have to use the services of an electrician. The connection procedure itself is not too complicated, but still, for the sake of your own safety, you should trust a person who has experience with electricity.

After that, the do-it-yourself Pioneer crane is ready for use.

Specifications

To better understand what the aforementioned representative of lifting machines is capable of, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with his more detailed description- Pioneer crane technical characteristics.

So, the first point in general characteristics of the crane is, of course, its lifting capacity. It can fluctuate in the range of 0.5 tons - 1 ton. The advantage of the Pioneer crane is that it is able to lift a load that is several times heavier than itself. The height of the crane is stable 4 meters. The angle that the platform can cover when turning is 360 degrees.

The support contour (connecting the contour of the vertical axes of the lifting machine, formed by horizontal projections of straight lines) is 2x2 meters. The speed of lifting the load is a floating value, depending on the weight of the load (0.5 tons - from 0.2 to 50 m / s; 1 ton - 0.74 m / s). The rope diameter also depends on the size of the load: 6.9 mm - 0.5 tons, 12 mm - 1 ton. The weight of the Pioneer crane, depending on the model, can be 1 - 1.5 tons.